@@bakcou I noticed when I tightened the long screw down that goes into the neck of the frame the neck and stem are really sloppy and move around a lot. I sent and email of what I'm talking about. I didn't want to tighten to much because I was afraid I would strip the threads
@@johnnykoba_on_the_road Hey sorry it took us a day to see this. Tighten the pinch tube side bolts and see if that helps. If you have to loosen the main neck bolt first, thats ok. Just be sure to tighten it back down. Try that and let us know if it works.
Really he used the stem only to line up with the wheel ? Where have you ever seen anyone ever use just the stem to make sure the bars are lined up with the wheel ? He did the steps all wrong . He should have lightly tightened up the center and 2 bottom stem bolts and added the handle bar to the upper stem and tightened it up enough so he line up the bars to the wheel and once it had it lined up using te bar as his guide go ahead and tighten up the center and 2 bottom bolts . Then once he has them nice and tight then add the spring and 2 pressure plates . No one in the history of lining up the bars has ever used just the stem to line up with the wheel . So how in the world could you type out great job ? Show me one other video on you tube where a person shows you to use only the stem to line up how your bars are going to end up . Its not going to happen . No one with half a brain is going to use just the stem without the bars to line it up .
@@johnnykoba_on_the_road The stem has to work just like any other stem . if you listen to what he said starting at 1:17 in the video about the spacers he said you can remove all of them . That is not true . If your stem post is to high when you go to put the stem on the stem post will contact the inter lip of the stem and it will not tighten up . There has to be a 3mm gap between the inter lip of the stem and the stem post . The stem post has to be lower than the inside lip that the bolt washer sets on . I don't know why he didn't go over that in his video . You have to measure the distance from the inside lip to the bottom of the stem your stem post on the bike has to be 2 to 3 mm less than that distance so the center bolt can tighten against the out side of the bottom part of the stem post or the spacer and not the very top of the stem post . I'm beginning to think the guy in the video is a idiot . If you are not able to get the play out of the stem by tightening the center bolt then you need to add a spacer or 2 to lift the stem up so the top of your stem post is not touching the lip inside the stem . The best way to know is like I said above and measure from the bottom of the stem to where you feel the lip inside the stem and make sure your stem post is 3 mm less than your measurement . If you need a spacer add the spacer and measure from the top of the spacer once you put it over the stem post to the top of the stem post ,keep adding spacers till you have 3 mm less than the stem measurement . He completely left that part out and acted like it didn't matter at all . I can't believe he told you in a reply to just tighten up the 2 bolts on the side . Tightening up those bolts is not going to get rid of the play . I'm sorry but that guy should not be making how to videos or answering peoples questions . If you stop the video at :56 when he takes the bolt and cap washer off you can see the top of the stem post . You can see that's its about 3 mm below the top of the stem . You want to do the same thing. With the type of stem he is showing the only difference is you can't see it so you have to measure it to make sure . You would think in the video he would show how to measure the distance or at least say what the distance is and them measure the stem post on the bike to show its at least 3 mm less space so the stem will tighten up correctly . He obviously doesn't know what the hell he is doing because he said you can leave the spacers off if you want to and that is just not true , that stem post would have touched the top of the inter lip and he would not have been able to tighten it up . How people can be this stupid and work with bike parts is beyond me .
Thank you for demonstrating, looks straightforward. I just got my Stem changed out at the shop as the bike is new and no cost, I just ordered a 120 degree one, if i saw this video before I ordered, I was sold. at least I have an idea how easy it is really to do. my question is as you also sell Handle bars. what would be a nice fit, equal to the Huffy parkside which I feel was perfect, while I have a Cannondale Adventure 2. its not as close to the huffy less comfy i asked, great job
Hello I have a Rattan LM 750 Pro Folding E-Bike the stem is way to long on minds I would like to change the stem on it to one of yours Can I do it please let me know thanks
When I install the handlebar stem raiser. The main bolt that feeds through the centre. Doesn’t screw down far enough and the forks are still moving around
There may be some spacers on your stem that need to be removed. Do you have a Bakcou bike or another brand? On our bikes, even with all of our spacers it can still fit down in there.
Can this be used in the opposite direction to bring the handlebars close to the seat? I have a LectricXP3 & the reach is a bit far for my short arms. I would rather be able to sit more upright with handlebars closer.
@@TheBhill Explain your reasoning why aluminium is "more reason to use torque wrench" since it's usually recommended for carbon frame.I was merely asking a question and you chose to be nasty for no reason.
@@frafra224 I wasn't "nasty" at all, just honest. Aluminum is much easier to crack, strip or otherwise damage. It's a very soft metal. Torquing to spec is generally a good idea to avoid over torquing & damaging parts & if I need to explain why a bolt that isn't tight is a problem then that says enough.
So you're lining up the stem without the bars on ? How can you tell that the bars are going to be perfectly lined up with only going by the stem ? I have never seen anyone use just the stem for limning up the bars . I think your doing it all wrong . I think to make sure you have the bar lined up with the wheel you should leave the center bolt a little loose and also leave the stem bottom 2 bolts a little loose . Then stick on the handle bar. There is no reason you can't go ahead and put the 4 screws that hold the bar in place and just tighten them up enough to be able to use the bar to line it up with the wheel . Then once you have it lined up using your bar as a guide like most people do ,them tighten up the center bolt and the 2 bolts on the stem . After you have the center and bottom 2 stem bolts tightened up so it won't move then put the spring and 2 pressure plates back in and adjust the angle you want . Who ever told you to do it the way your doing it in the video told you wrong . I just hope most people have enough sense do it the right way and not the way your doing it . How in the world can you have anything to do with bikes if you couldn't figure out how to mount this adjustable stem the correct way ? Congratulations you are the only person on youtube that has ever videoed themselves using only the stem to line up the bars without using the bars .
It lined up perfectly. If the stem is in line with the top tube it will line up with the front wheel. Thanks for your paragraph comment but there is more than one way to do most things and they are both correct. Your way would work and this way worked as well.
Very clear and easy to follow. Thank you.
You're welcome.
Good video, the bike user can try and test the angle of the Stem and the height by playing with the rigs to find the most accurate posture. Cheers 💯
Wow thank you so much!! I’ve been waiting for this video! Great job
Happy to help! Anything else we can do for you? Any other videos you'd like to see?
@@bakcou I noticed when I tightened the long screw down that goes into the neck of the frame the neck and stem are really sloppy and move around a lot. I sent and email of what I'm talking about. I didn't want to tighten to much because I was afraid I would strip the threads
@@johnnykoba_on_the_road Hey sorry it took us a day to see this. Tighten the pinch tube side bolts and see if that helps. If you have to loosen the main neck bolt first, thats ok. Just be sure to tighten it back down. Try that and let us know if it works.
Really he used the stem only to line up with the wheel ? Where have you ever seen anyone ever use just the stem to make sure the bars are lined up with the wheel ? He did the steps all wrong . He should have lightly tightened up the center and 2 bottom stem bolts and added the handle bar to the upper stem and tightened it up enough so he line up the bars to the wheel and once it had it lined up using te bar as his guide go ahead and tighten up the center and 2 bottom bolts . Then once he has them nice and tight then add the spring and 2 pressure plates . No one in the history of lining up the bars has ever used just the stem to line up with the wheel . So how in the world could you type out great job ? Show me one other video on you tube where a person shows you to use only the stem to line up how your bars are going to end up . Its not going to happen . No one with half a brain is going to use just the stem without the bars to line it up .
@@johnnykoba_on_the_road The stem has to work just like any other stem . if you listen to what he said starting at 1:17 in the video about the spacers he said you can remove all of them . That is not true . If your stem post is to high when you go to put the stem on the stem post will contact the inter lip of the stem and it will not tighten up . There has to be a 3mm gap between the inter lip of the stem and the stem post . The stem post has to be lower than the inside lip that the bolt washer sets on . I don't know why he didn't go over that in his video . You have to measure the distance from the inside lip to the bottom of the stem your stem post on the bike has to be 2 to 3 mm less than that distance so the center bolt can tighten against the out side of the bottom part of the stem post or the spacer and not the very top of the stem post . I'm beginning to think the guy in the video is a idiot . If you are not able to get the play out of the stem by tightening the center bolt then you need to add a spacer or 2 to lift the stem up so the top of your stem post is not touching the lip inside the stem . The best way to know is like I said above and measure from the bottom of the stem to where you feel the lip inside the stem and make sure your stem post is 3 mm less than your measurement . If you need a spacer add the spacer and measure from the top of the spacer once you put it over the stem post to the top of the stem post ,keep adding spacers till you have 3 mm less than the stem measurement . He completely left that part out and acted like it didn't matter at all . I can't believe he told you in a reply to just tighten up the 2 bolts on the side . Tightening up those bolts is not going to get rid of the play . I'm sorry but that guy should not be making how to videos or answering peoples questions . If you stop the video at :56 when he takes the bolt and cap washer off you can see the top of the stem post . You can see that's its about 3 mm below the top of the stem . You want to do the same thing. With the type of stem he is showing the only difference is you can't see it so you have to measure it to make sure . You would think in the video he would show how to measure the distance or at least say what the distance is and them measure the stem post on the bike to show its at least 3 mm less space so the stem will tighten up correctly . He obviously doesn't know what the hell he is doing because he said you can leave the spacers off if you want to and that is just not true , that stem post would have touched the top of the inter lip and he would not have been able to tighten it up . How people can be this stupid and work with bike parts is beyond me .
Thank you for demonstrating, looks straightforward. I just got my Stem changed out at the shop as the bike is new and no cost, I just ordered a 120 degree one, if i saw this video before I ordered, I was sold. at least I have an idea how easy it is really to do. my question is as you also sell Handle bars. what would be a nice fit, equal to the Huffy parkside which I feel was perfect, while I have a Cannondale Adventure 2. its not as close to the huffy less comfy i asked, great job
Hello I have a Rattan LM 750 Pro Folding E-Bike the stem is way to long on minds I would like to change the stem on it to one of yours Can I do it please let me know thanks
When I install the handlebar stem raiser. The main bolt that feeds through the centre. Doesn’t screw down far enough and the forks are still moving around
There may be some spacers on your stem that need to be removed. Do you have a Bakcou bike or another brand? On our bikes, even with all of our spacers it can still fit down in there.
Can I use this adjustable stem on a Lectric XPeak e-bike?
Will this work on a Philodo H8 E-bike ?
Can this be used in the opposite direction to bring the handlebars close to the seat? I have a LectricXP3 & the reach is a bit far for my short arms. I would rather be able to sit more upright with handlebars closer.
Not backwards but you can rotate the stem closer to your seat, but then your brake and shifting cables would be rubbing on the front post.
look in to Besnin it has a 120 degree angle . but I like the Bakcou.
Does the stem have play sideways or it could be tighten fully?
No it's only up and down.
Does the screws that hold the stem and the handle bar the same size in most mountain bikes ?
Yes
Is using the torque wrench necessary if my stuffs are all aluminium?
What? That's more reason to torque to spec...
@@TheBhill Why? Never used it.
@@frafra224 Maybe you shouldn't be wrenching on anything where safety could be an issue.
@@TheBhill Explain your reasoning why aluminium is "more reason to use torque wrench" since it's usually recommended for carbon frame.I was merely asking a question and you chose to be nasty for no reason.
@@frafra224 I wasn't "nasty" at all, just honest. Aluminum is much easier to crack, strip or otherwise damage. It's a very soft metal.
Torquing to spec is generally a good idea to avoid over torquing & damaging parts & if I need to explain why a bolt that isn't tight is a problem then that says enough.
Thank U God bleaa U 🤲🏽🙋🏽🌞
All that effort to blatantly typo.
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Can you adjust the stem to point straight up?
Yes you can but it makes the cables a little tight so it is harder to turn the handlebars
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So you're lining up the stem without the bars on ? How can you tell
that the bars are going to be perfectly lined up with only going by the
stem ? I have never seen anyone use just the stem for limning up the
bars . I think your doing it all wrong . I think to make sure you have
the bar lined up with the wheel you should leave the center bolt a
little loose and also leave the stem bottom 2 bolts a little loose .
Then stick on the handle bar. There is no reason you can't go ahead and
put the 4 screws that hold the bar in place and just tighten them up
enough to be able to use the bar to line it up with the wheel . Then
once you have it lined up using your bar as a guide like most people do
,them tighten up the center bolt and the 2 bolts on the stem . After
you have the center and bottom 2 stem bolts tightened up so it won't
move then put the spring and 2 pressure plates back in and adjust
the angle you want . Who ever told you to do it the way your doing it
in the video told you wrong . I just hope most people have enough
sense do it the right way and not the way your doing it . How in the
world can you have anything to do with bikes if you couldn't figure out
how to mount this adjustable stem the correct way ? Congratulations
you are the only person on youtube that has ever videoed themselves
using only the stem to line up the bars without using the bars .
It lined up perfectly. If the stem is in line with the top tube it will line up with the front wheel. Thanks for your paragraph comment but there is more than one way to do most things and they are both correct. Your way would work and this way worked as well.
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