YOU ARE AWESOME!!! Thank you for your detailed video instructions. I had 2 broken arms, a broken drip channel and one broken cable guide on my 2015 f150. I watched all of your videos multiple times. I purchased the cable guides, arms and drip channel and installed the cables without dropping the track. I started the project at 1pm and finished at 3:30pm. I successfully initialized it and everything works thanks to you!!!
Yeah, that's one reason I said I probably wouldn't recommend doing it this way. Although you can get some touch up paint and it's not like the truck will rust, lol. Glad to hear it's working
@@mooseman00691 you have to drop it in the back there's no way around that. The one how to manually align the guides th-cam.com/video/uQqhIRTP1GY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for all of your videos! I'm getting ready to replace the guides and rails on a Panoramic 2018 F150 King Ranch. I want to make sure im getting the right rails and guides and was wondering if you could confirm. I know there is a newer version than what is in the truck. Also, to my knowledge the moter is working great. I want to confirm that I dont need a new motor to match with the guides. Thanks!
@@Pappy8563 if the motor is working there is no need to replace it. They have updated the motors, and when you put a track in the Ford parts book says to replace the motors. But there's no real reason, they only tell you that because they've been updated. If you do decide to replace them, you have to do both because they will not program together, a new one with an old one
But I do tracks all the time and reuse the old Motors with no issue. The parts in the new tracks have definitely been updated. As far as the aftermarket parts that are available, I cannot vouch for them. It seems to be very Hit or Miss as to whether they fit correctly or not. But it does seem that they have copied the newer style parts, at least for the cable guides
Kudos to you as before you have saved me thousands of dollars showing me how this moon roof works a recap my drive motor fell out of mesh one screw missing and the other two one tight and the other one falling out dealer wanted $3700 to replace the entire assembly I just paid 3 dollars for the missing screw and tightened with blue locktite and re calibrated it works as new 3 months now use it every day. I am losing my mind had the cat piss smell every time it rained found my 3rd brake light was leaking easy to see above the headliner now in a heavy downpour no leaks seen in all the problem spots you have indicated but the smell ensues no water around the back window no water in the sills even I sealed the rivets on the rubber trim at the back of the roof did not do as any one would filling under these they have a channel to drain to the back of the roof on both sides of the rivet I know I would create a issue. I am going to put sheets of paper above the headliner in the back and if no stains I am at a loss. Apparently the smell is from the headliner not the back wall covering any ideas this is a weird one any ideas would be awesome always a thumb up I would be lost without you keep up the good work.
Thanks for the reply the cat piss smell is on going and going insane trying to locate a leak. Going through a car wash or the morning dew has created this disgusting smell. While I think I found it in the wind diverter as I will call it I sprayed it with lysol and rinsed it down the drains that was two days ago and it has rained since then and now a downpour just checked it out in the middle of this post NO SMELL. I will repeat and flush the back drains before winter a little tidbit as you have helped me spread this as it is not known maybe only in my climate Hamilton Ontario Canada certain pollens and shit create this problem kudos again.
How about replacing the slider guide that holds the concerta piece? Mine broke so got replacements from sunroof Dr., however wondering if they can be put in without releasing the cable motor or bringing down the track--2017-2019 F250? Was thinking pass through the 2 openings near where you slid this one out in the video here? My track has one opening covered by plastic and screw, and a wide open one on the opposite side, down the way a couple inches. I appreciate your videos and help!
You can use this to do them with, I think. Definitely the other video with the track out of the truck will cover them, but this one might do it, too. No way to do it without dropping the motor, as you'll need to manually move the cable guides, but you may well be able to do it without dropping the track.
Yes, the cable is in a "tunnel" and it has no choice but to go right back to the motor. This particular one, it's clipped out of a kind of "live diagnosis" video I was trying to do. Someone did this job themselves. Still didn't work right. Turned out they don't live far away, so they brought it to me to figure out, and during my diagnosis, I found that one of their new guides was messed up, so I decided to replace it with a new one I had. So since I was doing that, I knew lots of folks on YT had been asking me if this could be done in the truck without removing or dropping the track, so I just decided to try it right there, live and in color, lol. And it worked out. So that entire diagnosis video, I haven't decided whether to put it up or not, but for this I just clipped it out of that video and made this one, which is why I have all the extra text, since this particular subject isn't what the main point of the original one was. Now as far as how this one worked afterwards....it didn't. Turned out there was something wrong with the track rail itself, that was making the lower guide bind up. So my final fix for that particular truck was to replace the entire track with another one that I had rebuilt with these same parts, which did indeed work perfectly.
Thanks for the video very nicely done, I'm kinda on the same boat where I need to replace these but in order to pull the cables did you had to drop the motors to allow an easy pull/push? or the cable will go though the motor without issues?
If they're really that stiff, you might have a set of bad ones. I've seen it a couple of times, including the original of this particular video. Left one I could barely move, right one moved fine. I never came up with the answer for this one...I think whoever did it for the customer might have damaged the track somehow on the left, because they put 2 left sides in it and I put one, and all 3 were too stiff and had the same issue. I find it hard to believe we got 3 straight bad left side guides. Plus, he just got his, and the one I used I've had for a few months, so I wouldn't think they came from the same batch.
I noticed how much grease you had in this video I definitely didn’t put that much. I’ll try that and if not the entire track might be bad. Who do you recommend buying the complete track from? Thanks again for talking with me. Your videos are very helpful!
I received my trough guides. I assume I will have to take the rail guides but what about the cable? Do I have to pull it forward and out or is there an easier way to install the trough guides?
I pulled the passenger side cable out today. I laid it next to the new cable and the new cable is 4 1/2 inches longer, will this be a problem? I am hoping there is room for the extra in the track.
@@SealofPerfection Thanks for the quick reply. Tomorrow is the day of reckoning. Broken lower guide came out easy. I taped the top corner of the roof with tape,to avoid any scratches . I will post the outcome when I finish.
I'm back and I have a fully functioning sunroof again. Yes, the cable guides I received from Amazon worked fine. Note: Both new cables measured 74". Original passenger side was 69". Original drivers side was 59". The additional length did not interfere with anything. It is an overly tight squeeze making the turn to get the cable guide started. But as noted in the video, you need to swivel the arm down into a straighter position as you make the turn (It took a few tries to get the correct position). Concentrate on getting the plastic slider base into the channel. The pivoting arm roller can be dropped into the channel further down the track. Strongly advise Gorilla tape on edge of roof to avoid scratching the paint. PIA' s ------- Loosening the motor. Battery right angle drilll, a mirror and a light. Sunroof initialization. Took at least 7 tries. Thanks for all of the guidance. Steak dinner on me. Check your PayPal
@@Marty-ss9xr Right angle drill is worth its weight in gold to me. And thank you very much, glad you got it working. These overseas cables seem to be kind of hit or miss as to whether they fit correctly or not.
Where do you suggest getting new cables from. Im an independent dealer in Atlanta and deal with Expedition and Navigator pano roof issues constantly. I ordered two sets off amazon, 1 was ok and the other was way skinnier and caused a ton of problems. Your videos are awesome and EXTREMELY helpful BTW!
Yeah, that seems to be an issue. First set I did, perfect. Next set, the left one was too big and didn't move well. A customer reported to me that he got one set and the cable was skinnier like you say, sent them back and the next set was fine. I don't have a good answer yet. I'm waiting for Sunroof Doctor to get his right and available. His stuff is usually very good, but it's taking awhile for his supplier to get them right. A more expensive option (but not as much as a new track) would be to buy a track for a 21-up, and take the cables out of it. I've seen them for $4-600 and everything is the same except for the motors. So for whatever one costs, you get the cables and the upper arms. Only reason it won't bolt in is the new motors have only 2 screws, so they're totally different, but the guts are the same otherwise, and they have all the upgraded parts in them.
Thank you so much for your videos! We successfully changed 2 broken arms and 2 cables guides by ourselves and didn’t have to drop the track. We were having what sounding like grinding from the motor when we would try to operate the sunroof and nothing would happen and it is still doing it after switching things out. Do you think maybe our motor is going bad? We initially thought maybe the cable was bound up somewhere, but now we know that is not the case. Mechanic we took it too didn’t know but seemed like he wasn’t interested in helping us.
@@aimeekatseanes6713 I wish I had a more concrete answer for you. I've had quite a few people give me the same report after doing the same repair. I've heard stories anywhere from the cables being too short and also not big enough diameter. I cannot verify either of those myself because I haven't seen it. I've had some people tell me that they had this problem and sent their cables back and got new ones and then they worked fine. I think the build quality is sketchy on this stuff
I'm having the same grinding noise with original factory hardware. It only happens when I'm holding the close button and nothing happens aside from grinding. I disconnected the motor and tried it and it runs fine, but again only while holding the button (it doesn't run to a stop based on time/steps as it should). The other buttons do nothing. I'm going to attempt to swap out the cables and see if that helps, but I'm concerned with the stories I've read that it may not help. That being said, seeing as I'm having the problem with my original hardware, it's got me questioning other components (like you questioning the motors). I'm curious if you found a resolution since you posted this? -------------------------------------------------- [Note: This comment is not focused on any particular "designated group" with regard to the TH-cam "hate speech" or "cyberbullying" policies. It simply reflects the author's opinion regarding a subject, which may or may not also pertain to an individual's actions demonstrated in the video. If any such individuals belong to any of the "designated groups", any commentary included is merely incidental to that grouping and such groups are not the focus of any comments. It's pathetic that this comment is necessary for the YouTube censors.]
Has anyone found a set of cables that actually work? My first set were too thin and slipped at the motor when I tried to operate it without the glass, once I installed the glass it jammed me stripped the winding on the cable which made it extremely difficult to remove. Since then I’ve ordered two more sets and they are the same diameter so I just boxed them back up and returned them instead of wasting my time and money trying to make them work.
@@tcrosslin38 it is more expensive but if you buy a track for a 21 or newer and just rob the cables out of it, those will at least be the right ones. One of those is 600 plus, but at least it's not the 1300-1500 that at track that fits yours costs
I see you pull out the cable and put a new one in. My question is how does it connect or disconnect? Is there something in the back i need to do? Ty, your vids are awesome
@@SkylarWilson-v7b yes the motor needs to be loosened so the gear disengages from the cables so they will move freely. One of my other videos on how to align the guides shows you how to loosen the motor
Sorry, I don't have one. They are available on Ebay or Amazon. The vendor I got these from no longer has them, and I haven't bought anymore so can't recommend anyone.
YOU ARE AWESOME!!! Thank you for your detailed video instructions. I had 2 broken arms, a broken drip channel and one broken cable guide on my 2015 f150. I watched all of your videos multiple times. I purchased the cable guides, arms and drip channel and installed the cables without dropping the track. I started the project at 1pm and finished at 3:30pm. I successfully initialized it and everything works thanks to you!!!
Man, that sounds like it was a mess! Glad you got it fixed
Thank you very much. I have kids so I got it to shut and unplugged the motor for now so they don’t mess with it. Thanks again for your help!
I just did this, with your help and responses on another video. I scratched the paint in front getting it in but it went in. Tight squeeze
Yeah, that's one reason I said I probably wouldn't recommend doing it this way. Although you can get some touch up paint and it's not like the truck will rust, lol. Glad to hear it's working
Thanks again for the video. I’ll have to watch how to drop the motors then also.
Which video shows how to drop the motors without dropping the headliner
@@mooseman00691 you have to drop it in the back there's no way around that. The one how to manually align the guides
th-cam.com/video/uQqhIRTP1GY/w-d-xo.html
@@SealofPerfectionthank you
Thanks for all of your videos! I'm getting ready to replace the guides and rails on a Panoramic 2018 F150 King Ranch. I want to make sure im getting the right rails and guides and was wondering if you could confirm. I know there is a newer version than what is in the truck. Also, to my knowledge the moter is working great. I want to confirm that I dont need a new motor to match with the guides. Thanks!
@@Pappy8563 if the motor is working there is no need to replace it. They have updated the motors, and when you put a track in the Ford parts book says to replace the motors. But there's no real reason, they only tell you that because they've been updated. If you do decide to replace them, you have to do both because they will not program together, a new one with an old one
But I do tracks all the time and reuse the old Motors with no issue. The parts in the new tracks have definitely been updated. As far as the aftermarket parts that are available, I cannot vouch for them. It seems to be very Hit or Miss as to whether they fit correctly or not. But it does seem that they have copied the newer style parts, at least for the cable guides
Hello, was just wondering what type of lube you would use for the cable?
Silicone spray and not a ton of it
Kudos to you as before you have saved me thousands of dollars showing me how this moon roof works a recap my drive motor fell out of mesh one screw missing and the other two one tight and the other one falling out dealer wanted $3700 to replace the entire assembly I just paid 3 dollars for the missing screw and tightened with blue locktite and re calibrated it works as new 3 months now use it every day. I am losing my mind had the cat piss smell every time it rained found my 3rd brake light was leaking easy to see above the headliner now in a heavy downpour no leaks seen in all the problem spots you have indicated but the smell ensues no water around the back window no water in the sills even I sealed the rivets on the rubber trim at the back of the roof did not do as any one would filling under these they have a channel to drain to the back of the roof on both sides of the rivet I know I would create a issue. I am going to put sheets of paper above the headliner in the back and if no stains I am at a loss. Apparently the smell is from the headliner not the back wall covering any ideas this is a weird one any ideas would be awesome always a thumb up I would be lost without you keep up the good work.
Thanks for the reply the cat piss smell is on going and going insane trying to locate a leak. Going through a car wash or the morning dew has created this disgusting smell. While I think I found it in the wind diverter as I will call it I sprayed it with lysol and rinsed it down the drains that was two days ago and it has rained since then and now a downpour just checked it out in the middle of this post NO SMELL. I will repeat and flush the back drains before winter a little tidbit as you have helped me spread this as it is not known maybe only in my climate Hamilton Ontario Canada certain pollens and shit create this problem kudos again.
How about replacing the slider guide that holds the concerta piece? Mine broke so got replacements from sunroof Dr., however wondering if they can be put in without releasing the cable motor or bringing down the track--2017-2019 F250? Was thinking pass through the 2 openings near where you slid this one out in the video here? My track has one opening covered by plastic and screw, and a wide open one on the opposite side, down the way a couple inches. I appreciate your videos and help!
You can use this to do them with, I think. Definitely the other video with the track out of the truck will cover them, but this one might do it, too.
No way to do it without dropping the motor, as you'll need to manually move the cable guides, but you may well be able to do it without dropping the track.
Just completed the repair. Yes with the track and cables installed (never touched the headliner). Came out great!
nice video and thank you for sharing mine broke at the same point. How did it work after? once you pull it out does it go right back into the motor?
Yes, the cable is in a "tunnel" and it has no choice but to go right back to the motor.
This particular one, it's clipped out of a kind of "live diagnosis" video I was trying to do.
Someone did this job themselves. Still didn't work right. Turned out they don't live far away, so they brought it to me to figure out, and during my diagnosis, I found that one of their new guides was messed up, so I decided to replace it with a new one I had.
So since I was doing that, I knew lots of folks on YT had been asking me if this could be done in the truck without removing or dropping the track, so I just decided to try it right there, live and in color, lol.
And it worked out. So that entire diagnosis video, I haven't decided whether to put it up or not, but for this I just clipped it out of that video and made this one, which is why I have all the extra text, since this particular subject isn't what the main point of the original one was.
Now as far as how this one worked afterwards....it didn't. Turned out there was something wrong with the track rail itself, that was making the lower guide bind up. So my final fix for that particular truck was to replace the entire track with another one that I had rebuilt with these same parts, which did indeed work perfectly.
Thanks for the video very nicely done, I'm kinda on the same boat where I need to replace these but in order to pull the cables did you had to drop the motors to allow an easy pull/push? or the cable will go though the motor without issues?
Yes you have to drop the motors. I have another video on how to do that in this F-150 sunroof playlist
So I installed mine yesterday and now the motor just clicks and won’t initialize. Do you think it’s stuck or bad cables?
How hard was it to move the lower guides manually while the motor was disconnected?
Very stiff
@@user-df2uu4tq6d did you lube them with silicone paste?
And a bit of silicone spray on the cables?
If they're really that stiff, you might have a set of bad ones. I've seen it a couple of times, including the original of this particular video. Left one I could barely move, right one moved fine. I never came up with the answer for this one...I think whoever did it for the customer might have damaged the track somehow on the left, because they put 2 left sides in it and I put one, and all 3 were too stiff and had the same issue. I find it hard to believe we got 3 straight bad left side guides. Plus, he just got his, and the one I used I've had for a few months, so I wouldn't think they came from the same batch.
I noticed how much grease you had in this video I definitely didn’t put that much. I’ll try that and if not the entire track might be bad. Who do you recommend buying the complete track from? Thanks again for talking with me. Your videos are very helpful!
Do you know what this part is called that you refer to as "plastic piece"? (1:48 mins into video) and if it is sold separately?
Are you talking about the tiny little piece that's held on by a very small Phillips screw? I don't think it really has a name
No, it's the piece that is in your left hand that you slid out of the way. It's in 1:50 into your video.
@@jaydiaz1294 Oh, that's the trough guide. They aren't available from Ford except with a track, but I think Sunroof Doctor has them.
@@SealofPerfection okay, i will check to see if they have the trough guide. Thanks!
I received my trough guides. I assume I will have to take the rail guides but what about the cable? Do I have to pull it forward and out or is there an easier way to install the trough guides?
I pulled the passenger side cable out today. I laid it next to the new cable and the new cable is 4 1/2 inches longer, will this be a problem? I am hoping there is room for the extra in the track.
I haven't noticed that but I would not think it would be a problem. The extra cable just sticks out in the back, there's a place for it to go
@@SealofPerfection Thanks for the quick reply. Tomorrow is the day of reckoning. Broken lower guide came out easy. I taped the top corner of the roof with tape,to avoid any scratches . I will post the outcome when I finish.
I'm back and I have a fully functioning sunroof again. Yes, the cable guides I received from Amazon worked fine.
Note: Both new cables measured 74". Original passenger side was 69". Original drivers side was 59".
The additional length did not interfere with anything.
It is an overly tight squeeze making the turn to get the cable guide started. But as noted in the video, you need to swivel the arm down into a straighter position as you make the turn (It took a few tries to get the correct position). Concentrate on getting the plastic slider base into the channel. The pivoting arm roller can be dropped into the channel further down the track. Strongly advise Gorilla tape on edge of roof to avoid scratching the paint.
PIA' s ------- Loosening the motor. Battery right angle drilll, a mirror and a light.
Sunroof initialization. Took at least 7 tries.
Thanks for all of the guidance. Steak dinner on me. Check your PayPal
@@Marty-ss9xr Right angle drill is worth its weight in gold to me. And thank you very much, glad you got it working.
These overseas cables seem to be kind of hit or miss as to whether they fit correctly or not.
Another important tip, Cec
Where do you suggest getting new cables from. Im an independent dealer in Atlanta and deal with Expedition and Navigator pano roof issues constantly. I ordered two sets off amazon, 1 was ok and the other was way skinnier and caused a ton of problems. Your videos are awesome and EXTREMELY helpful BTW!
Yeah, that seems to be an issue. First set I did, perfect. Next set, the left one was too big and didn't move well.
A customer reported to me that he got one set and the cable was skinnier like you say, sent them back and the next set was fine.
I don't have a good answer yet. I'm waiting for Sunroof Doctor to get his right and available.
His stuff is usually very good, but it's taking awhile for his supplier to get them right.
A more expensive option (but not as much as a new track) would be to buy a track for a 21-up, and take the cables out of it. I've seen them for $4-600 and everything is the same except for the motors. So for whatever one costs, you get the cables and the upper arms.
Only reason it won't bolt in is the new motors have only 2 screws, so they're totally different, but the guts are the same otherwise, and they have all the upgraded parts in them.
Thank you so much for your videos! We successfully changed 2 broken arms and 2 cables guides by ourselves and didn’t have to drop the track. We were having what sounding like grinding from the motor when we would try to operate the sunroof and nothing would happen and it is still doing it after switching things out. Do you think maybe our motor is going bad? We initially thought maybe the cable was bound up somewhere, but now we know that is not the case. Mechanic we took it too didn’t know but seemed like he wasn’t interested in helping us.
@@aimeekatseanes6713 I wish I had a more concrete answer for you. I've had quite a few people give me the same report after doing the same repair. I've heard stories anywhere from the cables being too short and also not big enough diameter. I cannot verify either of those myself because I haven't seen it.
I've had some people tell me that they had this problem and sent their cables back and got new ones and then they worked fine. I think the build quality is sketchy on this stuff
@@SealofPerfectiondoesn't look like sunroof doctor offers the cables yet
@@mikeferretti7422 Nope. Still waiting
I'm having the same grinding noise with original factory hardware. It only happens when I'm holding the close button and nothing happens aside from grinding. I disconnected the motor and tried it and it runs fine, but again only while holding the button (it doesn't run to a stop based on time/steps as it should). The other buttons do nothing. I'm going to attempt to swap out the cables and see if that helps, but I'm concerned with the stories I've read that it may not help. That being said, seeing as I'm having the problem with my original hardware, it's got me questioning other components (like you questioning the motors).
I'm curious if you found a resolution since you posted this?
--------------------------------------------------
[Note: This comment is not focused on any particular "designated group" with regard to the TH-cam "hate speech" or "cyberbullying" policies. It simply reflects the author's opinion regarding a subject, which may or may not also pertain to an individual's actions demonstrated in the video. If any such individuals belong to any of the "designated groups", any commentary included is merely incidental to that grouping and such groups are not the focus of any comments. It's pathetic that this comment is necessary for the YouTube censors.]
@@Brian-bc8ds You're saying you have this issue with an untouched track? No work done?
Then your lower guides are likely shot
Has anyone found a set of cables that actually work? My first set were too thin and slipped at the motor when I tried to operate it without the glass, once I installed the glass it jammed me stripped the winding on the cable which made it extremely difficult to remove. Since then I’ve ordered two more sets and they are the same diameter so I just boxed them back up and returned them instead of wasting my time and money trying to make them work.
They are hit or miss. I have experienced the same thing
@@SealofPerfection I may try a set by JDMON, right now I’ve got a truck with a trash bag taped to the roof, lol.
@@tcrosslin38 it is more expensive but if you buy a track for a 21 or newer and just rob the cables out of it, those will at least be the right ones. One of those is 600 plus, but at least it's not the 1300-1500 that at track that fits yours costs
@@tcrosslin38 when Sunroof Doctor releases his cables they should be right he just does not have them available yet
@@tcrosslin38 when Sunroof doctor releases his cables they should be right he just doesn't have them available yet
I see you pull out the cable and put a new one in. My question is how does it connect or disconnect? Is there something in the back i need to do? Ty, your vids are awesome
@@SkylarWilson-v7b yes the motor needs to be loosened so the gear disengages from the cables so they will move freely. One of my other videos on how to align the guides shows you how to loosen the motor
@@SealofPerfection ty so much
Here it is so I had the one cable break loose. Do I need a track? What year did u say?
can you give us the part number for the cable?
Sorry, I don't have one. They are available on Ebay or Amazon. The vendor I got these from no longer has them, and I haven't bought anymore so can't recommend anyone.