If you're interested in any of the tools or equipment I use and you want to help support the channel then don't forget to check out some of the affiliate links in the video description. Thank you for the support!
I currently don't have access to a 3d printer, but would absolutely love to make myself a cast set of these. Do you ever sell the 3d printed items? Thanks for the content, new to casting and I'm absolutely hooked! Subbed immediately! Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and projects I truly appreciate it!
ive seen a pretty decent range of metal cadting content on youtube; this is by far the cleanest cast ive ever seen. no overflows, no fires, no bubbles, no lumps. clean, efficient casting and a gorgeous end product. bravo.
I wouldn't have done it that way either, and I wouldn't of had to screw the board on either. I wouldn't have used the half pattern at all, and did it with a false cope with the full pattern, which I've done before. A lot less work, but he did a very good job.
It would be fairly easy to mill out a square void within the mallet head of the tool and pour in molten lead or bismuth, followed by a flat recessed aluminum cover plate hold in with flush machine screws. That lead or bismuth core in the head would make the blows way more substantial. You could also fill it with lead or bismuth shotgun shell shot to make it a "dead blow" type hammer. #7.5 shot would probably be good. :)
Good looking tools you made there. Nice, clean job. They look like a good design. Last time I sand casted was in middle school shop class in the late 70’s. We had big chunky sand rammers made of wood. Tapered on one end and flat on the other. They were all chipped up and nasty too.
My dad used to say it's it's easier to to something right than it is to do it over. I like your method. Everything was clean and organized. You explained well and the video was nicely done. Thank you.
Hello Seth. I sure liked the hatches and your nice, clean exicutions making them. I pour silver in the weight of 2, to 16 ounce range using Petro and Delft Clay. These pieces for ramming the sand are great. Although too large for the flasks I use I am, with your blessings going to make a copper one, as I am not set up for aluminum and silver would be neat a tad expensive for me to use. Stop by if you want to see my setup. I don't have a 3D printer but can stack up some grade 8 bolts,nuts and washers that will work as a core. I sure enjoy the videos you are doing. Everything nice and organised and the design of the pieces you have shown us here are well thought out my friend.. Same goes to your video skills and edditing. Well thought and executed. Well done young fella. You are sure able to get atracted to the way you do this gig that should draw in new and unimformed folks that want to play with fire and metals. Take care and see you next post my friend.
What happens to the petro sand that is burnt? Is it reusable? Do you mix it all together afterwards? Scrap it off and reuse the rest? Just curious. Wonderful videos! Keep up the great work.
You could easily get yourself some golf club grips and put them on the handles of your rammers. Would definitely be more comfortable than bare aluminum.
Since I'm a friend of Dorothy, I immediately laughed realizing that the ol' backdoor washout device could be repurposed into a casting sand mold dusting bulb. I love things that have dual uses, especially when both uses are very fun! 😸
@@par5endos562 I guess I was a bit vague in my comment. I didn't think HE had an enema bulb in the video. I was just saying I laughed realizing that others could repurpose their own for this reason. 😸 Every good bottom has one, and they look basically identical. 😸 Also, I just realized that the little baby amniotic fluid nose sucker bulb thingy also could work because it looks identical too. 😺
Thank you for sharing your files for these, I am definitely going to make a pair. Do you know where I can find a crucible pouring handle like you have, I have a 10kg crucible that I use for aluminum and a tipping handle like that would be very helpful.
Ah. Fancy. Long time ago i just looked around on the ground for something to use to ram- saw a chunk of 1×2 and 2×2, made nice smooth ergo handles on em with a belt and palm sander. Been using them for a LONG time😂 that and a rubber mallet for my final pack. Have a mold drying up a little bit rn actually going to go pour in a minute
When the old rammers clock in at the office in the morning only to realize at the end of the day that the paperwork they were working on was their replacement's contract.
It looks like there is some extra aluminum sticking to the sides of the crucible after you poured the metal into the pans. How do you clean them? Or do you just save those crucibles for aluminum work and use other ones for bronze casting?
I saw your post on fb group i am in. I jave been wantong to learn to sand cast as i am a medical and areospace engineering student, but funds are soooo limited. Anyway, do you have the STL for the rammer? I just built a prusa i3 from sourced parts and i want to test it with this file. Thanks Edit.. Obviously i disnt listen to the end of the video haha
I'm impressed, good job. You might want to say why the spurs did their job, shrinkage. It can be seen in the spur, but not in the casting. I might make a pair similar, but not the same, because I like a different shape to pound with. Good job.
The burnt black sand is separated from the red sand. The red can be reused without issue. The burnt sand can be washed and retreated with the mold chemicals but usually gets discarded
I loved the Castings a lot ..Very Elegant design and Super accurate Metal solidification..I wonder How you managed shrinkage allowances .. Though you made huge Feeders.I still wonder..Osm work sir
He needs the two halves of the sand mold to press together with a perfectly flat and even surface at the center of the mold where they close together (or else you get a sharp seam where they closed together). The easiest way to do that, would be to just put a flat bottomed half model in the bottom of the sand container and pack the sand over it, so it becomes the right shape when it's flipped over and you don't need to worry about extra steps packing the sand specially for it. You can't do that with a fully printed model, and you shouldn't put a full model on the top and pack around it because it would not pack well without shifting and no amount of careful packing will leave the top smooth.
Do you ever accidentally hammer the wooden frame and mess up the whole assembly really bad? I ask because that's what I think would happen to me all the time and it looks so casual when you do it...
I'm wanting to try some casting. Where did you get your tongs for lifting and pouring? I seem to be only able to find the pliers type that you pinch the rim 9f the crucible with to lift it out of the foundry. The only pouring one's I've seen are the scissors type, I don't want those either.
I still don't understand the false drag concept, but the large feeders with a relatively small sprue is genius, higher flow keeps the metal from cooling before filling the feeders. That is a really neat design!
Sensual though it may be, the handles remind me of WW2 daggers. I wonder, would you try making a knife with a cast aluminum handle. This was not uncommon at the time!
@@robinson-foundry for the first pour actually yes. The way I count my ammount that is needed for my 3d printed casts is to slice the part in slicer with 100% infill. Then the slicer gives you information about the volume of filament that would be used for the print. I just add to it about 20% for the sprue, runners and feeders/risers and I am ready to go 👌. Try it with your next project maybe it will help a bit. Either way I must say this project of yours was still a success! Good job and keep it up 💪
Why not make two halves and use pins to hold both halves together when ramming up the other side? You had holes in the halves that could have been used for pins. Looks like a lot of work the way you did it, even if you did use a split pattern.
If you have a 3D printer you should be making 2 piece split patterns. I work in a Foundry. If you want the "best sand rammer" get a air compressor and a pneumatic rammer, but you do not need anything that hard unless you are making cores. 😁😆 I understand this is your hobby but you are overdoing and overthinking many of the processes here. The sand does not need to be extremely compacted, it can cause surface defects due to the gas not being able to permeate the sand grains. I could definitely give you some tips from my 10 years in the foundry business from pattern making, molding,coremaking,melting and pouring if you are interested shoot me a message if anyone has any questions.
a small tipp for gluing PLA peaces togther: just put some acceton on both sides and press them together until it evaporated. That will make for a really strong connection, because the glue is the same material, as the rest. Small restriction is, that it only works, when the two parts fit perfectly together, because there is no glue, to fill in any gaps.
@@AGryphonTamer no I am not talking about ABS. PLA won't dissolve in acceton. Nor can it be smooth the surface. But it makes the PLA squishy enough to fuse to matching surfaces together. I got really strong bonds with that. I recommand you try it. Perhaps with some small parts. It's easiest with the surface from the heating plate. you have to press them together quite strong for a minute or two.
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [TEASER MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VC689EgdSIw/mqdefault.jpg)
If you're interested in any of the tools or equipment I use and you want to help support the channel then don't forget to check out some of the affiliate links in the video description. Thank you for the support!
You have the hands my friend. I will tell the world wide and long about you. Great posts my friend.
I currently don't have access to a 3d printer, but would absolutely love to make myself a cast set of these. Do you ever sell the 3d printed items? Thanks for the content, new to casting and I'm absolutely hooked! Subbed immediately! Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and projects I truly appreciate it!
ive seen a pretty decent range of metal cadting content on youtube; this is by far the cleanest cast ive ever seen. no overflows, no fires, no bubbles, no lumps. clean, efficient casting and a gorgeous end product.
bravo.
Agree
After how many tries, we don't get to see ;)
This fella has what we call "the hands" and will go as far as his curiosety will take him and from what I have seen is a very long way, LOL.
This fella "Has the Hands" and will take this gig a very long way!
If you ever start a band, it should be called Seth Robinson & the Sand Rammers. :D Nice job. I've been enjoying watching your videos for a while now.
Haha that’s clever! Thanks, glad you enjoy watching them.
I didn't expect to find you on one of these videos lol
Sounds pretty gay to me
I wouldn’t have thought you’d pull out and replace the object in between the mold creation, interesting
Thanks you!
Yeah me either. Then it totally made sense.
I wouldn't have done it that way either, and I wouldn't of had to screw the board on either.
I wouldn't have used the half pattern at all, and did it with a false cope with the full pattern, which I've done before. A lot less work, but he did a very good job.
It would be fairly easy to mill out a square void within the mallet head of the tool and pour in molten lead or bismuth, followed by a flat recessed aluminum cover plate hold in with flush machine screws. That lead or bismuth core in the head would make the blows way more substantial. You could also fill it with lead or bismuth shotgun shell shot to make it a "dead blow" type hammer. #7.5 shot would probably be good. :)
Thanks for adding Celsius, makes it so much more interesting to watch
Relly? I dun think it does..
It does make the video more relevant, for those actually intetested in learning the process! 🙂
@@mariusmossum2923 but ppl who want to make it, they can just convert the nums, rel easy with google
@@JackTheAwesomeKnot even easier with it in the video -_-
Was the flesh-colored printer filament a purposeful choice?
You know it was.
Gotta have the right color for a rammer
Just the tip and only until the swelling goes down
Would love if you could do a video on all the different tools you use.
Thank you for making the stl files available. These are great.
Good looking tools you made there. Nice, clean job. They look like a good design. Last time I sand casted was in middle school shop class in the late 70’s. We had big chunky sand rammers made of wood. Tapered on one end and flat on the other. They were all chipped up and nasty too.
Even though I'm not in metal casting anymore, it's still super cool to watch this stuff.
My dad used to say it's it's easier to to something right than it is to do it over. I like your method. Everything was clean and organized. You explained well and the video was nicely done. Thank you.
Hello Seth. I sure liked the hatches and your nice, clean exicutions making them. I pour silver in the weight of 2, to 16 ounce range using Petro and Delft Clay. These pieces for ramming the sand are great. Although too large for the flasks I use I am, with your blessings going to make a copper one, as I am not set up for aluminum and silver would be neat a tad expensive for me to use. Stop by if you want to see my setup. I don't have a 3D printer but can stack up some grade 8 bolts,nuts and washers that will work as a core. I sure enjoy the videos you are doing. Everything nice and organised and the design of the pieces you have shown us here are well thought out my friend.. Same goes to your video skills and edditing. Well thought and executed. Well done young fella. You are sure able to get atracted to the way you do this gig that should draw in new and unimformed folks that want to play with fire and metals. Take care and see you next post my friend.
This channel has to be my favorite. I've easily watched every video at least twice now. Keep up the good work.
Those look great! Thanks for sharing the files, too
What happens to the petro sand that is burnt? Is it reusable? Do you mix it all together afterwards? Scrap it off and reuse the rest? Just curious. Wonderful videos! Keep up the great work.
Great content 👌
Very smart, only using one half to establish the parting line...
Thank you!
Have you thought about selling the rammers or your other utensils you use to make the spores and runners?
Those look absolutely amazing
Thank you!
You could easily get yourself some golf club grips and put them on the handles of your rammers. Would definitely be more comfortable than bare aluminum.
Since I'm a friend of Dorothy, I immediately laughed realizing that the ol' backdoor washout device could be repurposed into a casting sand mold dusting bulb. I love things that have dual uses, especially when both uses are very fun! 😸
I'm pretty sure that's a Giottos Rocket air blaster for camera equipment and not an enema. But they do look similar now that you mention it.
@@par5endos562 I guess I was a bit vague in my comment. I didn't think HE had an enema bulb in the video. I was just saying I laughed realizing that others could repurpose their own for this reason. 😸 Every good bottom has one, and they look basically identical. 😸 Also, I just realized that the little baby amniotic fluid nose sucker bulb thingy also could work because it looks identical too. 😺
Can you reuse the used sand?
Thank you for sharing your files for these, I am definitely going to make a pair. Do you know where I can find a crucible pouring handle like you have, I have a 10kg crucible that I use for aluminum and a tipping handle like that would be very helpful.
Can you reuse any of the burnt petrobond? Im assuming the black burnt parts are waist.
Ah. Fancy. Long time ago i just looked around on the ground for something to use to ram- saw a chunk of 1×2 and 2×2, made nice smooth ergo handles on em with a belt and palm sander. Been using them for a LONG time😂 that and a rubber mallet for my final pack. Have a mold drying up a little bit rn actually going to go pour in a minute
Can you reuse the burned sand or do you have to add new stuff after casting?
When the old rammers clock in at the office in the morning only to realize at the end of the day that the paperwork they were working on was their replacement's contract.
excellent rammers!
What do you do with the used sand? How do you recycle it? What can be recycled and what has to be discarded, if any of it?
Really really awesome foundry skill sir
Sand isn't the only thing you can ram with these tools ;)
Your tools and methods are so nice and well thought out
I have been looking for some good sand rammers, hope you don't mind if I print your design and make them on my channel? Great video.
Thanks! I don’t mind at all. Please do. I look forward to seeing them.
It looks like there is some extra aluminum sticking to the sides of the crucible after you poured the metal into the pans. How do you clean them? Or do you just save those crucibles for aluminum work and use other ones for bronze casting?
I use a different crucible for each metal and alloy. The remaining aluminum just comes out though. It’s just a very thin layer. Thanks for watching!
Those are so cool and great step by step guide I learned a lot
Beautiful job on the rammers and the video. Well done!
Thank you!
I saw your post on fb group i am in. I jave been wantong to learn to sand cast as i am a medical and areospace engineering student, but funds are soooo limited. Anyway, do you have the STL for the rammer? I just built a prusa i3 from sourced parts and i want to test it with this file. Thanks
Edit..
Obviously i disnt listen to the end of the video haha
These are beautiful
Thank you so much for all of your videos, they have inspired me, lol. I only have a 3 kg crucible, how much do I need to cast one of these at a time?
Very nice…great job!!
I'm impressed, good job. You might want to say why the spurs did their job, shrinkage. It can be seen in the spur, but not in the casting. I might make a pair similar, but not the same, because I like a different shape to pound with. Good job.
The flat one makes sense to me, but have you talked somewhere about why the pointed one?
I'm glad the description said sand rammer, I saw the pick and realised I'm not well.
Do you just scrape off the black sand and reuse the rest? Or does it all go to waste once you add heat to it?
The burnt black sand is separated from the red sand. The red can be reused without issue. The burnt sand can be washed and retreated with the mold chemicals but usually gets discarded
@@danhammond8406 okay
Can you direct me to a link or video on the coffee can looking device used to grind the surface finish sand?
Your voice and video structure really reminds me of Grant from the King of Random (may he rest in peace) in his older videos from the mid 2010s
I loved the Castings a lot ..Very Elegant design and Super accurate Metal solidification..I wonder How you managed shrinkage allowances .. Though you made huge Feeders.I still wonder..Osm work sir
What sand do you use for casting?
I am confused, why did you put the half printed in? What does that do to help the sand form to the object?
He needs the two halves of the sand mold to press together with a perfectly flat and even surface at the center of the mold where they close together (or else you get a sharp seam where they closed together). The easiest way to do that, would be to just put a flat bottomed half model in the bottom of the sand container and pack the sand over it, so it becomes the right shape when it's flipped over and you don't need to worry about extra steps packing the sand specially for it. You can't do that with a fully printed model, and you shouldn't put a full model on the top and pack around it because it would not pack well without shifting and no amount of careful packing will leave the top smooth.
Do you ever accidentally hammer the wooden frame and mess up the whole assembly really bad? I ask because that's what I think would happen to me all the time and it looks so casual when you do it...
how did the metal reach the circular bit where your hand is stopped? I thought there would stay an air pocket
The sand is actually very porous so gas can penetrate it eliminating the need for vents in many cases.
This is so satisfying...
I'm wanting to try some casting. Where did you get your tongs for lifting and pouring? I seem to be only able to find the pliers type that you pinch the rim 9f the crucible with to lift it out of the foundry. The only pouring one's I've seen are the scissors type, I don't want those either.
check bigstacked on TH-cam for making a set he shows how to make a set at home with no welder.
So that thing is for pounding sand? Brilliant
Nice. Great job I love them
I would love to see how you recover the molding sand. You can't just throw it away, can you?
WOW you did awesoe.. and thanks for the free files .. :-)
I still don't understand the false drag concept, but the large feeders with a relatively small sprue is genius, higher flow keeps the metal from cooling before filling the feeders. That is a really neat design!
Like they came out of a factory production line ! 👍🏻
Bravo Amigo! Great video...
Thank you!
Can’t tell you how cool i think this is. Thanks for sharing. (Came from functional 3d)
Thank you!
Do I need to become a Patreon member before I can get a copy of the print for the sand rammers. Thanks Rudy
Looks great
4:50 in the bottom left corner. The plates of my childhood lol
Very nice work. When making your models how did you slice the turnings into two equal pieces and how much distortion of the diameters did you get?
Can also wrap some leather around the handles, or stick a bike handle on for some extra shock absorption.
Sensual though it may be, the handles remind me of WW2 daggers. I wonder, would you try making a knife with a cast aluminum handle. This was not uncommon at the time!
Flap wheels are a game changer. Material just disappears!
You could just ad some tape for more grip, your work is still good
Perfect job. Very nice control when you poured because I didnt notice any air sucked into the mold.
Either way I still use my multi sand rammer 😉
Thanks! The pours did go very well. Waaay too much metal in the crucible though.
@@robinson-foundry for the first pour actually yes. The way I count my ammount that is needed for my 3d printed casts is to slice the part in slicer with 100% infill. Then the slicer gives you information about the volume of filament that would be used for the print. I just add to it about 20% for the sprue, runners and feeders/risers and I am ready to go 👌.
Try it with your next project maybe it will help a bit. Either way I must say this project of yours was still a success! Good job and keep it up 💪
As always, great work man! Keep the videos coming.
Thank you! I will!
Hotkinkyjo be like.
Hotkinkyjo : Oh my, i need this.
Really needs to be longer for her taste
Beautiful
So the difference between this and the aluminum meat tenderizer in my utensil holder is what? Bet there's a price difference.
Those have the same handles as the usmc k-bar basically.
Why the 2 different one and why not just the flat one?
So you sand cast a sand casting tool
nice clubs
What did you use as parting dust? DE?
He usually uses baby powder
Love it!
You didnt post the tools you use to carve the channels for the sand cast
Well that's a ramming device for sure
nice plug
Why not make two halves and use pins to hold both halves together when ramming up the other side? You had holes in the halves that could have been used for pins.
Looks like a lot of work the way you did it, even if you did use a split pattern.
Could just use a shake weight
look good
If you have a 3D printer you should be making 2 piece split patterns. I work in a Foundry. If you want the "best sand rammer" get a air compressor and a pneumatic rammer, but you do not need anything that hard unless you are making cores. 😁😆 I understand this is your hobby but you are overdoing and overthinking many of the processes here. The sand does not need to be extremely compacted, it can cause surface defects due to the gas not being able to permeate the sand grains. I could definitely give you some tips from my 10 years in the foundry business from pattern making, molding,coremaking,melting and pouring if you are interested shoot me a message if anyone has any questions.
Y acá estamos...
Your have taught me a lot, As I am person of Color in 1880 high school didn't give f8K.
I think the sand is a paid actor.
I need to be making spreadsheets right now
1:34 Ka-Bar tactical sand rammer
Литниковую систему, рассчитывать не пробовал???
Other than the concise voice-over, great editing, and flawless casting, that banjo was simply the cherry on top !
Edit : chill banjo @ 6:30 :D
damn i wish i was sand so bad 8-)
Yes, "sand rammers", exactley what i thought when i saw the thumbnail
Yes, sand rammers, that's what I thought they were, nothing else, especially not something inappropriate...
Seth, I love the content, but I'm 1 minute into this one and the wife and I have said "that's what she said" about a BAJILLION times.
“I’m one minute into this…”
That’s what she said.
@@soundmindtv2911 🤣
2 ways of using this you can use it for the sand and for you to
I usually keep my hands 6 inches from the tip too.
a small tipp for gluing PLA peaces togther: just put some acceton on both sides and press them together until it evaporated. That will make for a really strong connection, because the glue is the same material, as the rest. Small restriction is, that it only works, when the two parts fit perfectly together, because there is no glue, to fill in any gaps.
The PLA I have doesn't do much with acetone, certainly won't make a good bond. Are you thinking of ABS?
@@AGryphonTamer
no I am not talking about ABS. PLA won't dissolve in acceton. Nor can it be smooth the surface. But it makes the PLA squishy enough to fuse to matching surfaces together. I got really strong bonds with that. I recommand you try it. Perhaps with some small parts. It's easiest with the surface from the heating plate. you have to press them together quite strong for a minute or two.