Tonewinder Ultimate CNC Pickup Winder Review And Demo
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
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I saw your video and got myself the same machine. I noticed when you measured the thickness of the bobbin you measured it to 13400 but you set the machine to 13300. There is a setting in the basic parameters called delta. Here you set the compensation for the gap you want to make on the sides of the windings. In other words if the setting was 50 here you could fill in 13400 and the machine would automatically make the gap for you. Besides from that the machine has a menu that is very easy to understand and most people should have no problems setting it up.😊
Very cool! Props to whoever came up with the software program too!
The technology is amazing. I had no idea that bobin-winding is so prevalent that this much effort would be used to make a machine like that.
Great video Dylan. Appreciate your opinion on these things.
Great video, Dylan! This CNC winder is so cool! BTW, the wire gauge setting on the device's screen has a micrometer symbol, so I think it might be asking for the wire's thickness in micrometers rather than AWG.
You’re going to get me into this ya know?!
Definitely a very awesome tool. I tried to use scatter mode with my first wind. It didn’t go well 😂. I recommend starting with the basics. One thing I can’t figure out, is how to mount a P-Bass pickup outside of that this thing is amazing
Hi Jeremy, you can use a couple of pieces of wood to lift the pickup off the plate, so that the magnets do not touch the plate. If you have any doubt, please send us an email. Thanks
So many cool features. Thanks for doing this review.
Great video Dylan, congratulations for your channel. Are you going to go deep with this winder review?
Another video tomorrow
I like these new winders a lot more than the mojo tone
Do you have a. Link to you whisker dial setup?
Congrats on the new winder. Should be interesting. I'd experiment with very thin wire and short coils. Just to be clear, did you know that some types of wire insulation corodes if in direct contact with the pole piece alloy? That's why some PUP makers apply lacquer to the poles b4 winding.
I thought all Pickup makers coated the pole pieces on strat style bobbins for that reason. Are there any pros that don't?
@@skullheadwater9839 I don't know, and I wondered if Dylan does, or if it's not needed with some insulations types. It's not needed with molded plastic bobbin than cover the poles, which saves manufacturing time. Most PUP makers charge much more than is justified for such a cheap simple product, but one US builder charges less then $60 for hand-wound Strat sets. That's very generous.
Can you program the traverse action? Super cool winder
Whisker disk? I might try glueing some fishing line cuts to a CD and a 1/4-20 bolt 4" long. I am so primitive. I bought a sewing machine with a footpedal that controls speed , a mechanical counter and some double stick tape and my pickups make sound come out of the guitar. But I have only done less than 10 PU's. LOL. they do sound pretty good though. I looked up one of those tone winder's. I just can't justify $1,200 plus shipping to dick around making pickups for myself. Can you tell I grew up broke?
I need a HSS or a SSS for an upcoming build.
Sell me some whacky prototype (as long as it sounds good).
I want something unique.
how much does it cost ?
Link in the description
No prices on there @@DylanTalksTone
@@timesurfingalien $1284 at heartland pickups
Yeah… there are prices on every product
It’s going to be just under $1,300.00 everywhere you look. $760.00 for the manual one.
FWIW, 1 millimeter = 1000 micrometers
Well, I'll give you my two cents......its cool, but to me it would automate things I don't want automated, I would feel out of touch with the coil because the machine is making decisions for itself.. What I use is a vintage 70's Adams Maxwell hand winding machine, same one Seymour uses, though by itself that means nothing except that those machines that I have (two of them), will last forever as long as you replace the brushes, and have yet for them to wear out. Secondly, you don't want your single coils to be perfect wound, which is exactly why Leo's girls hand wound them, because he taught them a winding method to make sure the randomness is controlled in a certain way for treble control. Otherwise you get single coils that will be too harsh. Also why he used Heavy Formvar because Formvar is a dark sounding insulation. At the time I had started 20 some-odd years ago, hand winding was giving me crippling tendonitis from the back and forth movements. I went through all kinds of krazy adaptations to save my hands and arm, like using a bicycle detrailler cable setup so I could sit back and control the passes with a cable and hand held grip. Well that just put the tendonitis in a difference place. Then I tried a servo motor with a hand controller, was better but still hurt. Finally, After getting the Adams Maxwell winding machines, I realized I needed someone familiar with CNC programming and set out to have a guy build me something, but he never came through and it would have cost a fortune, and if it glitched on me with him long gone, it would have been a bad deal. So, I joined a CNC group and asked if anyone could tell me. how to build a simple device to simply move a wire guide back and forth. CRICKETS. No help at all. Finally found a great man on Ebay who was selling CNC courses, with drivers, a manual of lessons and a small stepper motor. It was hard to learn all this new stuff, but I managed to make that stepper motor move back and forth and learned the simple G code to program any motion I could dream up. I found some wholesale warehouse gear to couple the motor to a drive, and damn if the thing WORKED like a charm. The first thing I wound was a P90 neck, because hand winding just turns them into mud. FINALLY that first P90 got the vintage clarity they need. The code runs on a simple old PC with older print driver Out. Fastened the whole traverse down on a board with the Adams Maxwell all locked down. The software is basic PC timing that goes to the stepper motor driver and its all very simple. Now I had a WEAPON. I spent weeks and hours experimenting with winding patterns as many as I could think up. The G code lines are infinite, no limits. Even my hand winds are now encoded, no more tendonitis. The whole thing cost hardly anything. A vintage PC is about $100. Stepper motor and drivers around the same price for all. The PC failed and died a couple years ago, bought another one real quick and was back up within a week, then bought a duplicate for backup for when this one fails. the software is NOT for guitar pickups, its just general stepper motor control and has a lot of options I dont need. The problem with the winder you're showing is its maybe too complicated, and if it goes down you're really screwed. Looks really hard to read and tiny screens. I would not trust it. It IS VERY IMPORTANT to have an automated winding machine, whether one of the few vintage mechanical ones, or a DIY CNC set up. If you hand wind everything its a real bad idea, and you'll never get great clarity out of humbuckers. Even Seymour has said that in the past and he is right. Its only good for single coils, where the randomness (although its not totally random) will smoothe out the treble peak frequency to kill ice pick sound. Get yourself an audio analyzer network device and do test peak frequencies to watch what treble happens depending on winding patterns. Once you see and learn that, it becomes useless, same thing for an LCR meter, they are just teaching tools. An automated winding machine only needs to do two things, go left, stop, go right, stop. Adams Maxwell makes an auto winder, but it can only do one wind, left and right to limits, and they around $3000 or more. I figured out how to make the traverse go left and right, but slow down near the ends so you don't end up with a coil that bulges in the middle of the coil. The coils come out nice and flat, especially in Tele neck pickups. There is another auto winder that StewMac sells, but the wire guide SWINGS from a central spot, which is not good. You also need a good micrometer. I've not seen a good pickup winding machine yet, most of them don't sell well and disappear. There is a vintage one that Lollar has, its a big black metal box, has limit setting and passing speed control, and a counter which is also super important. Its completely mechanical, which may not be so good if something wears out. Well, I guess that was more like 15 cents worth, LOL.
Micrometers is the new millimeters😆
WOW 🧠!!! Sweet, Thanks For Sharing 🎸🎶🎶🎶🎶
Witchcraft afoot.... methinks.
That's not vintage 😢
I might get the light version. I don’t like automated scattering
The manual one is fantastic too!!!
I’m pretty sure this is what they used in the old Kalamazoo factory 🫤