Great video of the build and it looks like a sweet running buggy. I am racing the EB48 2.1 and it’s a great car, have already purchased all the parts for the 2.2 conversion to install after this racing season ends next month
I use the 243 . Works good . Sometimes it needs a 2nd hit . I ve found all liquid loctite works best and is less messy when I let the loctite dry on the screws overnight . The blue waxy stuff in a screw up cylinder like the old glue sticks back in kindergarten days is what I’ve been using . I’ve only seen it online but it’s great because it’s ease of getting some on a driver tip , apply and keep going . Sweet build Mr. Santa Maria .
243 is the best, been using it since the beginning of time. Oldest and best thread locker out. The original LOCTITE. Exactly like the channel lock brand. its the best out also.
I have used 243 a couple times, and i still think its better to brake clean the screws. The last thing i want is for a screw to come undone in the A-main because i didnt take a few extra minutes to clean the screws. Also, there is Green, blue, Red, Purple and orange loctite.
Thank you MSM, just sat down for lunch and this popped up front and center. Looking forward to the Loctite update after some use. I've noticed numbers before, but never took them into account, haha.
We use a uv loctite, it has to be kept refrigerated until actual time of use. Also highly toxic, but the vacuum of space is not where you want loose screws
after watching your videos, i decided to either get a tekno sct410 or the losi TEN SCTE 3.0, but i think i might have a better experience with Tekno, seeing as the Losi TEN is no longer made. I had to use loctite when building process chillers, Blue is the medium, Red is strong, and Green is strongest. they also make a clear glue, similar to CA but designed for permanent, OEM use. it is also best to apply the loctite on the middle of the screw, and not in the hole, if it pools in the hole it is too much for it to form the thin layer needed for proper adhesion. Tor remove stubborn loctite from metal, heat the screw or workpiece and itll slide right out. I would say red is the best for metal parts and the blue is the best for plastic. make sure to shake the bottle, and it does go bad over time or in high ambient temp. Hope that helped!
We use green loctite, if you never want to remove the part again, it's I think only available to industrial applications in the engineering and automotive industry, we glue a coin to concentrate with it and the coin wore out from the forklifts driving up and down the loading bay over it ,in 8 months the coin was smooth and looked nothing like a coin anymore
Loctite makes at least green, red, blue and purple which is for small screws. Grainger probably sells more than most so I get mine there so it's fresh.
There is blue red purple yellow orange green also high and low temp sealant for threads and that's just loctite themselves permatex also has most of the same colors too however don't get it twisted red is not always red same with all the colors. The number system is what you go by
@shafiqjan1474 gm uses yellow on caliper bolts on the trucks. And is crazy strong. Orange has the same holding properties as red however I was engineered to not have to use heat to remove it. Infact for rc where red is required I would start using Orange and In the areas where blue just does t seem to cut it but red was too much use Orange. Green is often called metal glue as it will bond metals together like on brake parts or freeze plugs
@fc3sboy1 thanks, the differences in grades are gap filling properties and then there are formulas for differing conditions of use from what I understand now. Uses are great for reference. Now I wonder what Ford uses on my F-150. I had a mountain bike job that asked for green and I got away with red and good because I had it and didn't want to buy some for 1 application.
What alot of people don't know is that Loctite actually has an expiration date. I don't know how accurate it is but I got and use the tubes in my toolbox that I've been using for 20 years now and it still works fine lol
Loctite makes a few different 'colors' (purple, blue, and red)...and, for each color, there are a few different variants. And, that's not even including their retaining compounds (of which...yes...they have several). The thing is, in addition to Loctite, there are other companies producing threadlocker. For red & blue, Loctite is my favorite...but, the reason I mention "other companies" is for the following reason. One of those 'other' companies is Permatex...and, in addition to the usual purple, blue, and red, they also make orange. So, what's so great about Permatex's orange threadlocker? As everyone knows, blue (the preferred threadlocker for RC) has a very good 'hold' strength, with a somewhat-low 'release' strange. Below that is purple, which has a very-low 'hold' & 'release' strength (great for Mini-Z, and other 1/28 RCs...although, blue is also great for these). Then, above bout is red, which not only has a very-high 'hold' & 'release' strength, but also requires a considerably amount of heat to release. Blue is perfect for metal-into-metal where one needs a good hold, but also where such parts might need to be disassembled/reassembled on a somewhat regular basis. A perfect example of where blue threadlocker is best used would be race vehicles. At the other end of the spectrum, red is perfect for metal-into-metal where one needs a super-strong hold, and expects such parts to never, or almost never need to be disassembled/reassembled. Perfect example for the use of red Fred locker would be speedrun vehicles. But, what about when there's metal-into-metal that falls somewhere's in between...where one needs a super-strong hold, but might also need to disassemble/reassemble on occasion? That's where orange red locker comes in. It has a 'hold' strength that is almost as strong as red, yet it has a 'release' strength that is only slightly higher than blue...and, best of all, it does not require any heat to release. When the holding strength of blue thread locker is "not enough", and the release strength of red is just way too difficult to deal with, orange threadlocker is your new "best friend".
All I know is life is too short to mess around with crappy thread sealer. If it's thin and makes a mess or if it smells funny, trash it. Skip that waxy stick stuff. The Locktite Brand will not do you wrong. The German stuff is Dangerous. If you're Serious about if working Clean Everything. On Instrumentation and Precision stuff get everything Perfect then hit all the fasteners and adjustments with green and it will be there when you come back next year. Unless 'somebody' has been messing with it, then you look for scalps.
watching these kit builds is very intimidating when you have never owned one. looking like you almost need an engineering degree between the build and setup.
I own Tekno eb48 2.0 and I could this kit with no instructions. The mugen kits too I can build with no instructions. When you race them you take them apart after every race just like a real race car.
Great video of the build and it looks like a sweet running buggy. I am racing the EB48 2.1 and it’s a great car, have already purchased all the parts for the 2.2 conversion to install after this racing season ends next month
I use the 243 . Works good . Sometimes it needs a 2nd hit . I ve found all liquid loctite works best and is less messy when I let the loctite dry on the screws overnight . The blue waxy stuff in a screw up cylinder like the old glue sticks back in kindergarten days is what I’ve been using . I’ve only seen it online but it’s great because it’s ease of getting some on a driver tip , apply and keep going . Sweet build Mr. Santa Maria .
Great build I really enjoyed watching it🤘✌️
Love the racing content! Buggy looks dialed!
Hey Mark thanks for the great content!
Yeah man . Looks like fun 👍
243 for the win.. been using it for years for all my Rc stuff helicopters definitely
Loctite 222 is very good it is design for hand tool removal.
Great Build MSM. That thing is pretty loud.
Great build nice to see they have wiring channels to keep things where they should be.
Damn bro that thing is awesome and quick
1 sweet e buggy👍👍
New Tekno buggy looks great
I use Orange locktite for motor mounts and grub screws.
243 is the best, been using it since the beginning of time. Oldest and best thread locker out. The original LOCTITE. Exactly like the channel lock brand. its the best out also.
Great video
I have used 243 a couple times, and i still think its better to brake clean the screws. The last thing i want is for a screw to come undone in the A-main because i didnt take a few extra minutes to clean the screws.
Also, there is Green, blue, Red, Purple and orange loctite.
Thank you MSM, just sat down for lunch and this popped up front and center. Looking forward to the Loctite update after some use. I've noticed numbers before, but never took them into account, haha.
We use a uv loctite, it has to be kept refrigerated until actual time of use. Also highly toxic, but the vacuum of space is not where you want loose screws
Can you make a video on some 4-tec on road racing? A lot of people don’t like it but I’m all about it. Thank you sir! Much love from Houston 🤘🏼
Good Morning
after watching your videos, i decided to either get a tekno sct410 or the losi TEN SCTE 3.0, but i think i might have a better experience with Tekno, seeing as the Losi TEN is no longer made. I had to use loctite when building process chillers, Blue is the medium, Red is strong, and Green is strongest. they also make a clear glue, similar to CA but designed for permanent, OEM use. it is also best to apply the loctite on the middle of the screw, and not in the hole, if it pools in the hole it is too much for it to form the thin layer needed for proper adhesion. Tor remove stubborn loctite from metal, heat the screw or workpiece and itll slide right out. I would say red is the best for metal parts and the blue is the best for plastic. make sure to shake the bottle, and it does go bad over time or in high ambient temp. Hope that helped!
We use this loctite we use on our firearms because it’s so good on screws with oil and grease, plus the heat.
The new Tekno buggy looks 🔥🔥🔥.. I see Adam Drake uses 50-50 loctite mix in his videos
I use Dynatex anaerobic medium strength thread lock (made in usa)
You should be using the orange loc tight because that 243 blue stuff is pretty hard to take off on those small screws
Where did you get those setup tools?
I’ve never used the thread locker included with kits. I’ve always use the 243, even when building quadcopters.
Try out the new ryobi electric screwdriver. It’s way smaller than that dewalt and it has more than enough power. I love mine
Loctite 243 ftw, Use it at work all the time.
Got that nitro finger 😊
I use the stick. It’s just cleaner. No mess.
Same here. I kept blorping out the liquid all over the place, so the stick is my friend.
We use green loctite, if you never want to remove the part again, it's I think only available to industrial applications in the engineering and automotive industry, we glue a coin to concentrate with it and the coin wore out from the forklifts driving up and down the loading bay over it ,in 8 months the coin was smooth and looked nothing like a coin anymore
Where can I get the cover for the rc
I use it on my tractor at work it's some good stuff
Hey Mark, what charger are you using these days?
Loctite makes at least green, red, blue and purple which is for small screws. Grainger probably sells more than most so I get mine there so it's fresh.
I use that lock tight on all my stuff
Indy!!
Dude you look like Gomez from Addams Familia! 😂
There is blue red purple yellow orange green also high and low temp sealant for threads and that's just loctite themselves permatex also has most of the same colors too however don't get it twisted red is not always red same with all the colors. The number system is what you go by
Never seen yellow and orange, any idea on their applications?
@shafiqjan1474 gm uses yellow on caliper bolts on the trucks. And is crazy strong. Orange has the same holding properties as red however I was engineered to not have to use heat to remove it. Infact for rc where red is required I would start using Orange and In the areas where blue just does t seem to cut it but red was too much use Orange. Green is often called metal glue as it will bond metals together like on brake parts or freeze plugs
@fc3sboy1 thanks, the differences in grades are gap filling properties and then there are formulas for differing conditions of use from what I understand now. Uses are great for reference. Now I wonder what Ford uses on my F-150. I had a mountain bike job that asked for green and I got away with red and good because I had it and didn't want to buy some for 1 application.
Permatex Threadlocker Orange is high strength removable. Between red and blue.
Do not use the green locktight stuff...you will strip threads with it......mega strong stuff.....the blue stuff is great!
i use 243 on everything. 17 rc cars including a mostly metal crawler. the only screws that ever come out are the ones i missed.
What alot of people don't know is that Loctite actually has an expiration date. I don't know how accurate it is but I got and use the tubes in my toolbox that I've been using for 20 years now and it still works fine lol
been using it for 10+ yrs, shit works fine
Hey mark, if you put on yellow wheels, it will go faster. 😮
Best loctite ever
Loctite makes a few different 'colors' (purple, blue, and red)...and, for each color, there are a few different variants. And, that's not even including their retaining compounds (of which...yes...they have several). The thing is, in addition to Loctite, there are other companies producing threadlocker. For red & blue, Loctite is my favorite...but, the reason I mention "other companies" is for the following reason. One of those 'other' companies is Permatex...and, in addition to the usual purple, blue, and red, they also make orange. So, what's so great about Permatex's orange threadlocker?
As everyone knows, blue (the preferred threadlocker for RC) has a very good 'hold' strength, with a somewhat-low 'release' strange. Below that is purple, which has a very-low 'hold' & 'release' strength (great for Mini-Z, and other 1/28 RCs...although, blue is also great for these). Then, above bout is red, which not only has a very-high 'hold' & 'release' strength, but also requires a considerably amount of heat to release.
Blue is perfect for metal-into-metal where one needs a good hold, but also where such parts might need to be disassembled/reassembled on a somewhat regular basis. A perfect example of where blue threadlocker is best used would be race vehicles. At the other end of the spectrum, red is perfect for metal-into-metal where one needs a super-strong hold, and expects such parts to never, or almost never need to be disassembled/reassembled. Perfect example for the use of red Fred locker would be speedrun vehicles. But, what about when there's metal-into-metal that falls somewhere's in between...where one needs a super-strong hold, but might also need to disassemble/reassemble on occasion? That's where orange red locker comes in. It has a 'hold' strength that is almost as strong as red, yet it has a 'release' strength that is only slightly higher than blue...and, best of all, it does not require any heat to release. When the holding strength of blue thread locker is "not enough", and the release strength of red is just way too difficult to deal with, orange threadlocker is your new "best friend".
How did you get your kit so early! I pre-ordered mine!
I prefer the orange thread lock. stronger than the blue, but not as strong as red.
Loctite 243 is what we use in industrial stuff at factories
Try 1.5 to 2.0 camber in the front
i mix red and blue loctite in a bottle 50/50 like a lil mad scientist
not knocking the car, but 1/8th scale cars, especially truggies, look kinda goofy with the thinner turnbuckles.
That's what I use I have multiple bottles of it never had it come off
NICE EB. HEY MARK WHAT HOBBYWING ESC ARE YOU USING ?? LMK THANKS 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
@@johnmiller4553 hobbywing XR8 sct… its discontinued. The update one i put a link in the description.
@@MarkSantaMaria Thank You Sir🤙🤙🤙
I usually use the purple. It’s a step less than the blue.
Blue Locktite in a red bottle. I’m a little confused lol
I use LocTite 242 without failure for many years, and I don’t clean anything. But you’ll need heat to release after 24 hours cure time.
We got green loctite
Also green.
Hey, are we racing wednesday night ?
There's much much more Loctite than that. Many different "blue" alone. Go by the numbers not the colors. Look at their industrial catalogue.
Idk why you are still messing with tekno. You know the bandit with its new upgrades is way better lol
LMAOOO
@@BAYRAKTAR_MAN 🤣🤣🤣
All I know is life is too short to mess around with crappy thread sealer. If it's thin and makes a mess or if it smells funny, trash it. Skip that waxy stick stuff. The Locktite Brand will not do you wrong. The German stuff is Dangerous. If you're Serious about if working Clean Everything. On Instrumentation and Precision stuff get everything Perfect then hit all the fasteners and adjustments with green and it will be there when you come back next year. Unless 'somebody' has been messing with it, then you look for scalps.
Time for a haircut bud
Apparently its also time for you to post a weird comment...
@tylerandersenandthegang tbh your comment is a little more weird..
243 too strong
watching these kit builds is very intimidating when you have never owned one. looking like you almost need an engineering degree between the build and setup.
Key is to have the tools and time. Go slow and check before going to the next step. You can do it!
or youtube videos
I own Tekno eb48 2.0 and I could this kit with no instructions. The mugen kits too I can build with no instructions. When you race them you take them apart after every race just like a real race car.
Worst motor