Thanks for the video! Have a 67, 6cyl, added a Vintage Air. Stock radiator couldn’t handle it when it hit 85. Ended up with the Champion EC339 radiator. Had to use the Spal 16-0400 low profile fan with the mounting brackets. Didn’t have enough room between the fan and pulley to us their fan shroud. With 95 to 100 plus days, it runs at 180, in traffic, it’ll hit 200, but cools back down to 180, once you get moving again. Again, thanks for sharing!
I dream of driving my '65 Mustang 200 up the I-5 Grapevine during a summer day. No AC, just opened windows. Just like my parents did in the 60's, 70's in these cars. Haha!
Thank you for this. You won’t believe this some years ago I found a specialty FOUR core copper radiator from CJ Pony for my inline 6 (same as yours) thinking this would solve my heating problems after I put the 2 barrel Weber on. I replaced the old crappy 2 row copper that came with it thinking this would solve my problems along with a higher flow water pump replacement. Nope. In the summer at stop and go traffic here in DC I was creeping up to 205-210 and getting worried all of the time. I was using the engine fan but now realize I had the wrong size spacer not keeping the fan close enough to the fins. Anyway, you have convinced me to get the 2 row champion with the spal 1516 fan combination. The other issue I am worried about is that eventually I would like to add AC (i.e. classic auto air) because the DC area is just miserable in the summer…So by installing the condenser unit in front of the 2 row champion radiator do you believe this would significantly change the static pressure characteristic to the extent that the 2 row champion (like yours) could still handle the demand? Based on what you’ve shared here it seems perhaps closely examining the specifications on a different model fan may indicate another model may help to decrease the delta.
I have been told by others using the same setup as me with AC that it works just fine, no overheating. AC condensers are usually a lot less restrictive.
Sir you mentioned in the video but I couldn’t quite it make it out the name of the company that your purchased the low profile bolt heads due to the tight fit of the Spal fan. I have gone ahead and purchased all the key parts for this project(it’s my birthday - so it’s time lol) I looked and tried variations of the name I thought heard to no avail apologies… would you be able to tell me once more where you got the bolts? Thanks again for this outstanding video,
Have the Champion and Spal 1516 fan but still not enough clearance to pulley and bolts. Due to no stock anywhere, had to get the Champion 251 with different size in and out hose fittings but the company said it's the same radiator otherwise and can use adapting fittings for hoses. Any ideas on fitment?
I have the motor out of the car right now otherwise I would. I'm doing a 2V conversion with a Sniper 2300, and a small cam. I drove it up to Santa Clarita a few times, with no problem in traffic or otherwise. Probably didn't have enough balls before to even make it up the grapevine LOL.
Is ur oem temperature sending unit connected to the water outlet instead of the original back of the e head ? Why? Trying to run a mechanical temp gauge on my 67 but I was told to run it on the water outlet and keep my oem sending unit connected on the back of the head on its original connection ..
Yes, I moved my OEM temp sender to the water outlet because I have EFI and the temp sender for the EFI needs to be in the head. Since the EFI tells me temp, I don’t really care that the OEM gauge doesn’t read until the thermostat opens. You can put it in the water outlet, it just won’t read until the thermostat opens.
@@azteca8151 I run a Holley Sniper 2300 EFI. There are a few options for EFI. The Sniper 1100 is the bolt on direct replacement for the standard single barrel carb, but it’s back ordered big time.
That original 3 core radiator shoulda been enough to keep ur engine cool I think ur timing and fuel delivery is ur problem even tho that new aluminum radiator is keeping ur engine cool now its prob just covering ur underlying problem of running lean or timing is off.
The original radiator was not a 3 core, it was 2. Timing and fuel delivery was all looked at at the time. Several people on the VM6F have had the same issue since this video was made and have gone to the champion radiator and all have the same positive result with this setup.
What is the black radiator and how much is it because I have two barrel under the hood and is it worth it just get in the championship just getting the stock radiator if not can you just give me a link to which one you think is better?
The black radiator is copper. You’re better off with aluminum. The Champion is a model 251-6, but I think they are still back ordered. Good luck finding one.
Thanks for the video! Have a 67, 6cyl, added a Vintage Air. Stock radiator couldn’t handle it when it hit 85. Ended up with the Champion EC339 radiator. Had to use the Spal 16-0400 low profile fan with the mounting brackets. Didn’t have enough room between the fan and pulley to us their fan shroud. With 95 to 100 plus days, it runs at 180, in traffic, it’ll hit 200, but cools back down to 180, once you get moving again. Again, thanks for sharing!
Had similar experience going up a hill Rancho Palos Verdes, you are a life saver. Thank you.
I dream of driving my '65 Mustang 200 up the I-5 Grapevine during a summer day. No AC, just opened windows. Just like my parents did in the 60's, 70's in these cars. Haha!
Haha, well it’s a heck of a climb! Our 200s would probably struggle a bit. The 101 and PCH is really a beautiful drive up the coast side.
Thank you for this. You won’t believe this some years ago I found a specialty FOUR core copper radiator from CJ Pony for my inline 6 (same as yours) thinking this would solve my heating problems after I put the 2 barrel Weber on. I replaced the old crappy 2 row copper that came with it thinking this would solve my problems along with a higher flow water pump replacement. Nope. In the summer at stop and go traffic here in DC I was creeping up to 205-210 and getting worried all of the time. I was using the engine fan but now realize I had the wrong size spacer not keeping the fan close enough to the fins. Anyway, you have convinced me to get the 2 row champion with the spal 1516 fan combination. The other issue I am worried about is that eventually I would like to add AC (i.e. classic auto air) because the DC area is just miserable in the summer…So by installing the condenser unit in front of the 2 row champion radiator do you believe this would significantly change the static pressure characteristic to the extent that the 2 row champion (like yours) could still handle the demand? Based on what you’ve shared here it seems perhaps closely examining the specifications on a different model fan may indicate another model may help to decrease the delta.
I have been told by others using the same setup as me with AC that it works just fine, no overheating. AC condensers are usually a lot less restrictive.
@@mechtrician1 thanks so much and again sincerely appreciate your sharing these experiences with us.
Sir you mentioned in the video but I couldn’t quite it make it out the name of the company that your purchased the low profile bolt heads due to the tight fit of the Spal fan. I have gone ahead and purchased all the key parts for this project(it’s my birthday - so it’s time lol) I looked and tried variations of the name I thought heard to no avail apologies… would you be able to tell me once more where you got the bolts? Thanks again for this outstanding video,
@@stephenparra7567 McMaster Carr
Good informative video!! The aluminum radiator is next on my list for my 66
What is the Champion part number for this radiator. And also what fan part number are you now using? Thanks.
The radiator is a champion 251-6 and the fan is a Spal 1516.
Whose hoses you put on?
What kind of Alternator you have on to keep up with the fan and all the electric on the car?
It’s just a Summit Racing 100 amp alternator. There is another video where I talk about it.
Have the Champion and Spal 1516 fan but still not enough clearance to pulley and bolts. Due to no stock anywhere, had to get the Champion 251 with different size in and out hose fittings but the company said it's the same radiator otherwise and can use adapting fittings for hoses. Any ideas on fitment?
Take a measurement of your radiator core. I believe the 251-6 6 cylinder rad is only 1.63” thick.
I doubt the V8 (251) model is that thin.
@mechtrician1 could you provide the part number for the brackets that you used to mount the fan to the radiator please?
Spal 30130011
Camera is 👌
take it up the grape vine to really put it to the test lol
I have the motor out of the car right now otherwise I would. I'm doing a 2V conversion with a Sniper 2300, and a small cam. I drove it up to Santa Clarita a few times, with no problem in traffic or otherwise. Probably didn't have enough balls before to even make it up the grapevine LOL.
Is ur oem temperature sending unit connected to the water outlet instead of the original back of the e head ? Why? Trying to run a mechanical temp gauge on my 67 but I was told to run it on the water outlet and keep my oem sending unit connected on the back of the head on its original connection ..
Yes, I moved my OEM temp sender to the water outlet because I have EFI and the temp sender for the EFI needs to be in the head. Since the EFI tells me temp, I don’t really care that the OEM gauge doesn’t read until the thermostat opens.
You can put it in the water outlet, it just won’t read until the thermostat opens.
@@mechtrician1 i like ur set up nice very informative video really help alot any link for the EFI ?
@@azteca8151 I run a Holley Sniper 2300 EFI. There are a few options for EFI. The Sniper 1100 is the bolt on direct replacement for the standard single barrel carb, but it’s back ordered big time.
Where did you buy the hoses for the radiator and you know the sizing ?
Lower hose is stock. Upper hose is a Gates 20661.
That original 3 core radiator shoulda been enough to keep ur engine cool I think ur timing and fuel delivery is ur problem even tho that new aluminum radiator is keeping ur engine cool now its prob just covering ur underlying problem of running lean or timing is off.
The original radiator was not a 3 core, it was 2. Timing and fuel delivery was all looked at at the time.
Several people on the VM6F have had the same issue since this video was made and have gone to the champion radiator and all have the same positive result with this setup.
@@mechtrician1 cool u got it to cool down.
@@mechtrician1 I thought u said in this video that it was a 3 core.
@@martinjay5906 it was, but was a replacement in the video. Original factory copper was actually a 2 row. No one makes that anymore.
What is the black radiator and how much is it because I have two barrel under the hood and is it worth it just get in the championship just getting the stock radiator if not can you just give me a link to which one you think is better?
The black radiator is copper. You’re better off with aluminum. The Champion is a model 251-6, but I think they are still back ordered. Good luck finding one.
@@mechtrician1 thanks 🙏
What degree is your Timing set at… I have a 200 with that exact aluminum radiator
Initial timing or total? I run 14 degrees initial, about 32 total. The curve is custom for my motor. It’s not stock anymore.
@@mechtrician1 Initial timing… I think I have mine set at 12 It’s runs fine but gets a little sluggish when I run my AC
@@zekemartinez5398 12 is about right. It will always probably be a little sluggish with the AC on. It’s kind of the nature with these motors.
@@mechtrician1 Thanks you !
Where did you get the white filler from at 15:53?
I think Amazon maybe.
Where you purchase your radiator
Jegs, but I heard they don’t have them in stock now either. They are a little hard to find right now for some reason.
Do the trans lines fittings need any sealant or tape? What did you use? Thanks
It’s tapped 1/8 NPT so yes, it needs sealant. Use Teflon tape, don’t use any liquid sealer as it can get into the trans.