shackles hangers upgrade are one of top three tacoma upgrades there is. completely transforms the feel of the truck. Its also one of the most labor intensive mods for a DIYer, but worth every drop of sweat.
I got very very little time off-roading this weekend at KOH, but tbh didn’t feel that huge of a difference tbh. Granted all the circumstances were not as they usually are. I’ll need more time on them to really feel them out.
yeah I would assume the difference is felt way more coming from a stock set up. my backend would bounce around on bumps but now its so solid in the back. feels like the truck is one piece.@@desertdime
We'll send you our U-bolt flip, it's very good for a simple bump, softer than stock brick. King also sells bolt-on bump mounts that work just right. Trying to stuff custom bump cans is tough with low room on Tacoma
Looks like you could fit some bypasses with those new shock towers! I’d add a carrier bearing spacer also to make your driveline angle less steep. Looks good though!
Yeah you can fit a bypass in with these towers! It’s an idea running through my mind. And yeah the space was gonna be added if we were able to bed it back like we did. If not I was just gonna cut the hangers completely and weld on new longer ones
2in with a bypass would be much better, I've had both setups (smoothie and 4in bump vs. bypass and 2in bump). The bumpstops dont have a resi so it's best to rely on the bypass bump zone and only after that last bypass zone is engaged should you really be hitting the bumps. ADS has a few good writeups on that stuff on the bad lines good times forum.
@@hsklar5941love that both of you chimed in. I’m still trying to learn more about how the rear end of the Tacoma works with different combinations so this was cool to read.
@@desertdime look at DMZ and JD fabs Tacoma builds. They mainly run 4inch bumps on their rear end Tacoma's, because of the issues mentioned in the video, even with king bypasses, they run 4 inch. I can't speak for ADS shocks though, every shock manufacturer is a little different on how they build their shocks out. But for Kings, you'll definitely need a 4 inch hydro bump. Unless you want to go for the overland look and get some rubber made bumps👎🏼 lol
Just go Long Travel. You’ve already cracked the core support and done permanent mods. Might as well go all in. DK rear for sure. Get rid of the Overland suspension.
All in due time my guy 🤘🏼 this 2.0 build started off with 1) not wanting to go full LT through the bed and all that comes with it and 2) cause I didn’t have the money for all that. Wanted a clean simple way to get better use out of the rear end since the OEM replacements were terrible. Then once I started the 2.0 I saw how many people loved it and were looking for the same perimeters. Clean, simple, cheap, daily driver/weekend warrior type build. I really love doing all this research, testing, different combinations, etc that is obtainable and diy-ish so that other people can learn from it and get some take aways.
If the parts are in good condition and usable I’ll hold on to them to sell. If they’re like these hangers where the insides are smoked I’ll get rid of them.
Oh yeah the shock relocation is 100% worth it! The debate begins on what size/type shock to put in there. If you’re willing and able to go through the bed of the shock then a bed cage with bypasses all day. But this is the option for guys who want max travel while concealing in the wheel well
I should have been more specific. Haha, was it worth it with for the 12 inch shock and just upgraded leaf pack and hanger. Seems like a bit of waste with the unusable shock travel ?
Lifting the truck (via leaf springs or lifting blocks) won’t raise the axel. That lifts the body/frame and the axel is still at the same height. The only way to raise the axel (from my knowledge) is larger tires.
When you’re in the shop I see you using jacks to test up travel. When I jack the axle up it lifts the car. I’m wondering how I can see how much up travel I can get without lifting the car
@@jakegilman1520 ohhh ok ok I see what you mean now. You have to take the leaf pack apart so it’s less stiff and flexes instead of lifting. If you he removed most of my leafs and only left the top 2. He also added a metal block between the axel and leafs to simulate the other leafs he removed.
Spring Under all the way… leaf spring overloaded is too much rear buck, tendency to over compress and rebound to extreme, bypass shock with under spring then get bumps…
![Completely UNBIASED Suspension Shootout [Shock Value Conclusion]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sJEkSmewcQE/mqdefault.jpg)
shackles hangers upgrade are one of top three tacoma upgrades there is. completely transforms the feel of the truck. Its also one of the most labor intensive mods for a DIYer, but worth every drop of sweat.
I got very very little time off-roading this weekend at KOH, but tbh didn’t feel that huge of a difference tbh. Granted all the circumstances were not as they usually are. I’ll need more time on them to really feel them out.
yeah I would assume the difference is felt way more coming from a stock set up. my backend would bounce around on bumps but now its so solid in the back. feels like the truck is one piece.@@desertdime
We'll send you our U-bolt flip, it's very good for a simple bump, softer than stock brick. King also sells bolt-on bump mounts that work just right. Trying to stuff custom bump cans is tough with low room on Tacoma
Looks like you could fit some bypasses with those new shock towers! I’d add a carrier bearing spacer also to make your driveline angle less steep. Looks good though!
Yeah you can fit a bypass in with these towers! It’s an idea running through my mind. And yeah the space was gonna be added if we were able to bed it back like we did. If not I was just gonna cut the hangers completely and weld on new longer ones
I’m running the timbren ubolt Flip kit offroad bumpstops pretty cozy ride , but I ain’t running that shock relocation kit and hangers yet
I'd say you need to go spring under or a 14" now. I'd reccomend spring under, because if you continue the build, 14" shocks are not gonna cut it
Yeah doing any other shock while still spring over seems pointless almost. Spring under is the next logical step with the rear suspension
You should be able to run 4inch bump stops. Sell those 2x2s and get 4inch hydros.
2in with a bypass would be much better, I've had both setups (smoothie and 4in bump vs. bypass and 2in bump). The bumpstops dont have a resi so it's best to rely on the bypass bump zone and only after that last bypass zone is engaged should you really be hitting the bumps. ADS has a few good writeups on that stuff on the bad lines good times forum.
@@hsklar5941love that both of you chimed in. I’m still trying to learn more about how the rear end of the Tacoma works with different combinations so this was cool to read.
@@desertdime look at DMZ and JD fabs Tacoma builds. They mainly run 4inch bumps on their rear end Tacoma's, because of the issues mentioned in the video, even with king bypasses, they run 4 inch. I can't speak for ADS shocks though, every shock manufacturer is a little different on how they build their shocks out. But for Kings, you'll definitely need a 4 inch hydro bump. Unless you want to go for the overland look and get some rubber made bumps👎🏼 lol
@@CCD78 yeah, I was just saying that a 2" hydro bump was better for the current rear setup, 4in is better with more travel in the 16"+ range maybe
Let’s just skip to version 5 😂full tube chasis or bust! Jk jk looks sick gotta get that test run footage soon 🔥
Haha shit I’d love nothing more than to skip to version 5 but the wallet says no!
DuroBumps if staying with this setup
Just go Long Travel. You’ve already cracked the core support and done permanent mods. Might as well go all in. DK rear for sure. Get rid of the Overland suspension.
All in due time my guy 🤘🏼 this 2.0 build started off with 1) not wanting to go full LT through the bed and all that comes with it and 2) cause I didn’t have the money for all that. Wanted a clean simple way to get better use out of the rear end since the OEM replacements were terrible. Then once I started the 2.0 I saw how many people loved it and were looking for the same perimeters. Clean, simple, cheap, daily driver/weekend warrior type build. I really love doing all this research, testing, different combinations, etc that is obtainable and diy-ish so that other people can learn from it and get some take aways.
By any chance do you sell any of your old/used parts?
If the parts are in good condition and usable I’ll hold on to them to sell. If they’re like these hangers where the insides are smoked I’ll get rid of them.
Soooo was it even worth the shock relocate, price wise ?
Oh yeah the shock relocation is 100% worth it! The debate begins on what size/type shock to put in there. If you’re willing and able to go through the bed of the shock then a bed cage with bypasses all day. But this is the option for guys who want max travel while concealing in the wheel well
I should have been more specific. Haha, was it worth it with for the 12 inch shock and just upgraded leaf pack and hanger. Seems like a bit of waste with the unusable shock travel ?
Gotcha !
How do you raise the axle without lifting the truck?
Lifting the truck (via leaf springs or lifting blocks) won’t raise the axel. That lifts the body/frame and the axel is still at the same height. The only way to raise the axel (from my knowledge) is larger tires.
When you’re in the shop I see you using jacks to test up travel. When I jack the axle up it lifts the car. I’m wondering how I can see how much up travel I can get without lifting the car
@@jakegilman1520 ohhh ok ok I see what you mean now. You have to take the leaf pack apart so it’s less stiff and flexes instead of lifting. If you he removed most of my leafs and only left the top 2. He also added a metal block between the axel and leafs to simulate the other leafs he removed.
@@desertdimegotcha thank you
SUA time
Ohhhh don’t tempt me! 😂
Spring Under all the way… leaf spring overloaded is too much rear buck, tendency to over compress and rebound to extreme, bypass shock with under spring then get bumps…