Why DIY Homeowners Should Wire Differently Than Most Professionals
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มี.ค. 2024
- Klein Tools 11-in-1 Screwdriver - amzlink.to/az0hk1BETCxjR
Outlet Spacers - amzn.to/49XsrGb
Legrand Commercial Grade Outlet - amzlink.to/az08luQeUTDU6
Decora Edge Outlet - homedepot.sjv.io/GmXJ36
WAGO 221 (90 Piece Kit) - amzlink.to/az0eBpCFKyJJK
Knipex Wire Strippers - amzlink.to/az0RAB6YA7HPM
Most professionals prefer to use side wiring when wiring a standard 15 Amp or 20 Amp outlet. Although side wiring works great for professionals I think there is a better wiring approach for homeowners taking on a few DIY electrical projects here and there. I will walk through the alternative wiring method which will more consistently get the desired results for DIY homeowners installing new electrical outlets.
Free Home Maintenance Checklist:
everydayhomerepairs.com/home-...
Friends Don't Let Friends Tape Outlets T-Shirt: everyday-home-repairs.creator...
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Klein Tools 11-in-1 Screwdriver - amzlink.to/az0hk1BETCxjR
Outlet Spacers - amzn.to/49XsrGb
Legrand Commercial Grade Outlet - amzlink.to/az08luQeUTDU6
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
The price diff at my local HD is $0.37 between the Decora Edge and the regular Decora. No more hook and screwing the wires, saves time and it allows for quick removal if necessary without damaging the wires.
I prefer the back-wired receptacles. Everything I've installed or replaced for the past couple of years has been back-wired. Just so much easier. My daughter recently had a new house built and it has a mix of wrapped terminal and back-stabbed. I was NOT pleased to see that commercial electricians had taken the least reliable method on a new construction!
It is too bad that the Klein screwdriver does not have ECX options. They are even better than Robertson drives.
I am a residential home owner and do all my own "simple" electrical work by following your recommendations on tools and supplies. I now only use commercial grade outlets when I need to replace any existing outlet. I also only use WAGO's on all my projects. Thanks again for you simple to understand video's.
I get what you're saying about the backwiring method being safer than stabbing, but neither are more secure than the tried, and true J-hooks. If those screws weaken, or become loose over time, the straight line for the other two methods can still slip out. It boils down to geometry. The hooks are prevented from backing out just based on their shapes, and if you pinch the hook closed it even provides constant contact. In that situation the hook not only has nowhere to go, but kept tight to the terminal screws, and plates preventing a disconnection, and possible short. Naturally this is just my opinion though. Everyone has their own methods. Thank you for the video!
The back wired ones are MUCH better than the loop over the screw. They will never back off or loosen if you tighten them right
Do you use hooks on breakers too?
In practice, I would say your assessment is a bit inaccurate. Most devices are "shoved" into the junction box which puts pressure on the wire, forcing it forward into the device. So, even if the screw clamps were to loosen over time due to heating effects, the wire would not "back out" of the connection. Testing has proven that clamp connections are every bit as effective as side screws.
@@willschultz5452 never say never. Any metal on metal connection can loosen over time due to heating effects. Even large-scale electrical connections, installed by experienced professionals using torque tools can and likely will loosen over time. It is why power rooms in commercial/industrial facilities are routinely tested with infrared/heat sensing equipment to identify where there are "hot" spots due to loose connections. The only reason this is not typically done in residential applications is the wattage/heat is much lower so the loosening effect takes much, much longer. Usually, a receptacle will fail mechanically before it will fail electrically. Meaning the plastic will fracture from misuse by the home owner or the grabbing power will wear out from having devices repeatedly plugged in/out of the outlet. There is also a common assumption in residential construction that most home owners will renovate every 25-30 years and replace old receptacles in the process.
Just use the damn screws and do it right.
The J-hooks being difficult to get off is the reason I will always use them
I upgraded to the commercial grade outlets per your recommendation as a homeowner and they were super easy to install!
I like the side screw. The side screw gives you the most secure connection.
I love the Leviton edge outlets. I’m a homeowner, and I (in one week) am tearing out all my drywall, as I don’t have insulation in my 1960 brick home. While I’m in there, I’m replacing all the wiring, as it’s old ungrounded two wire with small metal boxes. I’m replacing with all 12 gauge, largest adjustable boxes, and using wagos and Leviton edge everywhere possible. After I’m netting the cavities, blowing in TAP cellulose and putting up new drywall. Channels like yours I feel has helped me gain some confidence on taking a project like this on.
Professionally, I work in an insurance agency, and own a low voltage and audio company.
if you've got the walls open, put in batt insulation. it won't settle like cellulose does.
@@kenbrown2808 Cellulose has a higher r value than the pink stuff when dense packed. When dense packing, it prevents settling. Cellulose is also only about $400, vs pink stuff which is more around $1800 for the same square footage. Mineral wool is an r value gain of 2 above cellulose, about a less than 10% energy improvement, and would cost around $2600. Spray foam would be around $6k.
@@russellsickler5961most trades hate spray foam with a passion. the overlap between trades that have worked in houses with sprayfoam and trades that have had to repair stuff damaged in the sprayfoaming process is likely close to a perfect circle. I really don't care about R value differences. encapsulated batts are the least horrendous insulation to deal with.
@@russellsickler5961I did cellulose just in my attic. Complete game changer versus fiberglass, house is much more comfortable during winter and it keeps the heat out during summer, it’s a lot of value for the low cost
DIY'er, been remodeling our house (complete, to the studs) since 2021 (we're now about 2/3's of the way done). I've been using the Decora Edge switches & outlets (where possible) since they came out. These things are great, it's like a Wago outlet! Installation is so much faster, don't have to worry about the screw terminals hitting anything, etc. Can't wait for the Decora Edge lineup to include everything (dimmers, GFCI outlets, etc) because they are just so nice to work with!
Its just too bad that the new Edge devices do not have an option for the classic outlet design. Decora is nice when you are renovating/building where they can all be installed to match, but for smaller projects and DiY outlet additions, it kinda sucks to have mismatched receptacles or having to replace perfectly functional ones just to match a new one.
Diyer trained by an older journeyman while building houses in the 70's. I was in late teens and wanted to learn. As for receptacles, i do use commerical backwire. I perfer the Klien long #2 to tighten and then come back and snug up with a flat head Klien. Just to make sure of the connection . A must for this way with stranded. .Milwaukee 48-22-2042#2 Ecx 4" Screwdriver is also a a great one as it has square drive in the center and flat together this one does not slip. I also use wago's for grounds .Still a little ole fashion on wire nuts but comig around . I like watching your channel and always learning
ECX is an excellent recommendation. It is superior to Robertson drives.
Commercial grade all the way. I love the screw down clamping plate style.
Re. the screwdriver - #2 square (Robertson) is good, but perfect would have to be the appropriate #1 or #2 ECX. It is a combination that simultaeously fits all of the blade, cross and square in those screws. Klein probably sells bits for that, but I use Milwaukee.
I’ve done some handyman work and I started using that type of outlet for all my replacements. Makes so much sense. A few years before I replaced all the outlets and switched in my entire house and I bought pro grade Leviton but still had to use needle nose on ever single wire to j hook it for the screws and it still try’s to slip out sometimes. Lowe’s pro grade are the type you showed in this video. I’ve been thinking of trying the lever style too. I’m a huge wago fan.
Swapped an outlet this weekend with an outlet with USB A and C plug. It had back wiring. It was a lot easier to install vs the side wire model I used a year or so ago for another outlet.
Sticking with side-wiring in most cases, just more comfortable with it. I’m a DIYer but been doing electrical work DIY for so long I wouldn’t be the normal DIY just getting started or without much experience that’s for sure.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
I'd wrap a layer of insulation tape around the outlet to cover the side wire....
This is a good summary of your earlier videos on the subject, Scott. The commercial receptacles are also more sturdy and you can feel it. (A similar thing is available to light switches.)
I'm using these Legrand in my basement and slowly switching to their Adore line upstairs, which also have the rear ports for wiring.
I have that Klein 11-in-1 but it needs a bit of "break-in" from my experience ... it's too hard to pull apart despite all the oil it ships with.
The Klein is the same for me. I've stuck with the Milwaukee 11-n-1s for this reason.
I started using the Leviton Decora outlets you showed and was quite happy with both the ease of installing wire into them and the lack of exposure of bare copper on the outside. With metal boxes this is especially a nice feature.
DIYer. Just rewired my daughter's entire house. (Long story) I took your suggestion and used Spec Grade plugs with back wiring. I loved it. THANK YOU!
Excellent!
Electrician here. I started in residential before going into Commercial and Industrial. Residential electricians are mostly speed freaks and dont care much after the device plate is leveled. The resi outlets are trash, never buy bottom dollar for electrical devices. Side wire with hooks or screw clamps are the way to go.
Im not 100% sold yet on the wago outlets, lets give them time. I personally installed commercial grade devices when I rewired my house...i also used MC instead of Romex. I live in a rural area and tend to lean to overkill than just getting by.
I've always used the side screws, but I'm going to give the commercial grade a try soon. I'm a homeowner who used to do construction, and basic electrical installation.
I replaced every outlet in my home when I bought it. The previous owner had badly abused many of them. I upgraded to Decora, which I think it gives a more modern look. Unfortunately I had to side wire them all. Didn't need the spacers, but those would be a great idea. Thanks!
I could not agree more. I am in the process of replacing every electrical outlet in my house. *Electrician* used speed wiring on every single outlet -- many with bare copper exposed due to poor wire stripping. I'm using commercial-grade outlets in most locations and heavy-duty outlets in places where I'm plugging in heavier loads. Quality outlets are worth the money and back-wiring is the way to go.
I use spec grade in all "regular" outlets..but for shop or "high traffic" outlets (lots of plug/unplugging) I use hospital grade... I couldn't confirm exactly how much better they are.. but I got a hell of a deal on amazon (under $3 ea) and bought a butt ton!!
I’m a homeowner that uses J hooks and am quite comfortable with them. however I’d like the upside of down the road serviceability. I’ll give them a try. Thanks.
I’m a professional. Wrapped clockwise around the side screw is always the best. 80% of service calls are the result of a home owner using the push / stab type coming loose. I do like, use, and approve of the type you showed with the stab and then screw tighten. But be careful. Too many people don’t get the wire in squarely or all the way in and the screw seems tight but the wire can pull straight out. Seen it many times.
DIYer - extensive work over the decades. I prefer the clamping screw over J-hook. Helped a friend once who insisted on counter-clockwise J-hook as pull would “tighten” the screw - couldn’t convince him otherwise. Although I love Robertson(square drive) screws I found occasionally that they were a bit soft when in a combo head - a wide slot driver helped to do final tightening. Regret that not doing much these days now that all the neat stuff like Wago connectors are available.
Wagos are junk.
DIYer - I do like your recommendations and I do not like back stabbing. But next time I need and outlet, whether I go with this approach or not will all come down to price and availability.
DIYer here, been rewiring homes since the 70s. Sure could've used these newfangled devices back then! Now that I'm remodeling my daughter's house (it's so old it only has 2-prong outlets!) I'm going to take your suggestions and really enjoy the work this time! Thanks!
Of course the receptacle that can be back-wired is my favorite, I did just see a video on the new Leviton Wago and these might be a game-changer, time will tell.
I haven’t used the new lever outlets yet but I am a great fan of the the commercial outlet thanks to you.
Dont use them there expensive junk. Tighten the screws works forever.
I'm with you on the commercial grade outlets. Not only for the better wire attachment but the robustness of the inner guts of the outlet.
DIYer here. I like your way with the commercial grade devices better. It is cleaner and easier. Also, and I assume this is allowed, you can connect two wires to each position, meaning fewer marrettes and pigtails filling up the box. Of course, I just finished going through my house replacing all of the outlets and switches, and didn't notice until my second trip to the store that these commercial grade ones were there with this feature. So only about half of my devices are done this way, the rest are the usual residential grade with the J hooks.
One other thing I discovered is that most of original devices I was replacing didn't have the ground wire hooked up. The longer I live in and work on this house, the more I realize that it wasn't built to the highest standards.
One question: those spacers are good if the drywall is overcut or the box is too deep. What do you do if your box isn't 'square'? If it is tilted one way or the other? With one edge deeper than the other? How do you adjust your outlet or switch so that it isn't also tilted?
My next door neighbour professional electrician (young one) told me me the side screw mount connector was best to use for a sound connection. So, even though it’s a bit more work, I go with that for any sort of electrical on the end of the line. Push in connectors particularly strike me as doubtful.
I've made a lot of money replacing receptacles that had the "stab" connections used. sidewire and backwire are both much better, and the lever lock connections are better than stab connections, but still have less surface area in contact.
Great video showing much easier method.
As a British retired electrician l am amazed that it has taken so long for the American domestic electrical accessory market to come up with an electrical outlet with non- exposed connection terminals.
Keep up the very informative videos and stay safe.
It's probably cheating and not as good, but I replaced almost all mine and I used the newer method as shown but i didn't cut the wires fresh, just straightened out the hook and cut to the right size and used it. And in light switches with J hooks I just unscrew the screw all the way, leave the J and unscrew the new recepticle screws and replace them, leaving the J hook undisturbed. Is that so horrible? I know it's not the perfect way, but everything is tight and in the right place.
I'm a DIYer and I like side wiring... 😁
DIYer in the middle of a complete rewire and remapping of circuits in an older home with cloth and resined paper NM without ground, undersized boxes and an inch gap between drywall lathed plaster walls and brick on exterior walls. I wanted to go with commercial grade receptacles because of the superior backwiring, but there is zero availability of decora style tamper resistant commercial receptacles. So I punted and went Decora Edge at $2 each. I'm not unhappy with the choice but would have preferred an overall more robust outlet.
Im a DYIer and I use commercial grade outlets after watching your videos.
I live in Canada and I'm a DIYer. I like to use the secure plates instead of the J wire hooks. I saw the Leviton lever outlets at Home Depot last fall but I haven't seen any more since then. I'm not sure what's going on with them. So far I haven't seen any Wago lever connectors in Home Depot, Rona or Home Hardware either. Maybe not available in Canada?
I am transitioning to Decora Leeviton edge because I hive 12 gauge wire and its difficult for me to get the wires neatly back in the bock using pigtail method. I have had ground wires touch my metal post in the past creating a short. I have also transitioned to Wago wire nuts but finding I need to use a wrap of tape to keep the lever nuts from opening when I push them back in the gang box and come loose which has happened several times for me.
RV repair my thing, but I get the occasional shed or addition to wire. Sticking with side wire and cheap receptacles except for ones in areas where plugging & un-plugging regularly will probably occur or high amperage devices will be used regularly. For those areas, commercial grade all the way to avoid early failures.
Maybe you mentioned it but with the side wire you can always give the wires a quick tug to make sure they are in there securely.
I used a spec grade light switch the other day because I needed to replace a broken toggle switch on something but around the house I use only decoras. There's several reasons why. 1.) You can have arms full of -whatever- and turn the lights on with your elbows. I do this constantly. Also, they use the same face plates. Switch or receps, it doesn't matter. I make my own faceplates so it's handy when I can do a whole batch and they are all the same. Third, they are easier to clean. People don't realize how dirty and gross looking switches and recepts get. And last but not least, they look more modern. So that's what I use. I take what I can get in the store. I am not a licensed electrician. I'll volunteer that much. 😊
I always use your method of commercial grade outlets with the secure plates as opposed to the j-hook method. I am a DIYer that has owned my home for over 30 years.
Very interesting options, which are all of these are great - However it still comes down to Proper Installation for all of these outlets.
I love the the outlet you put in because to me the wire is more secure in that option. I am curious about 2 things however; if you went with another standard residential option, do you really need to clip off those j- hooks, can’t be reused as is? Also, you preferred the outlet you put in and referenced that the company may eventually make them decora style. Is there any benefit to the style you put in over the decora? I always love your tips, very useful information!
Side wire J-hooks for me. The residential grade receptacles I have installed some years ago have begun to fail, difficult to plug in and out. These are in locations that are frequently used.
Yep! Wagos also will fail.
Good job on setting flat head screw slot vertical on cover plate. 👍
i have for decades always wrapped eletrical tape around the screws learned it from my electrical teacher in 1970 grade 9
I love the screw plates, that other one you showed with the levers is hot though. 😅
DIYr..replaced ALL with Levitron..switches n outlets..love em💜yup
I'm waiting for you to cut open and compare the decora edge receptacle and light switches before I replace my old ones. I'd like to see if they are closer to commercial grade or standard consumer grade inside.
Thanks for that video, I like that new commercial switch like so much easier for a DYI person and the new of that tool y where using and the black spacer does that have a specific name?? Thanks Again 😊
I like the back wiring.
Hmm never heard of the spacers I like them going to get a bunch today
NICE JOB SCOTT!
I like your way better. Those screw down plates are a lot easier to use. I have not seen the lever outlets before. Thanks, your videos are always helpful. I now use wagos all the time. Cheers
Plates are good, wagos are not.
Got a quick question- have a freezer and fridge plugged into the same outlet in the garage. both of the plugs point down because the style of cord they have so one won't plug in all the way and I am temporarily using a heavy duty extension cord. Does this Decora edge have more space between the outlets? Or should I just convert to a 4 plug outlet to get a little more space? any other options you recommend @everydayhomerepairs
Cool!!! it has my vote!
In addition to commercial grade outlets, be sure to use commercial grade ‘outlet covers’. The generic kind will crack at the screw hole where the commercial kind are made thicker, stay flat and hold up much better. They cost more but you get what you pay for.
I definitely prefer the newer Leviton outlets over the other ones for installation in the home. They look safer and more secure for their intended purpose. Maybe use the side wire outlets for use in sheds.
I'm a DYIer and have done quite a bit of electrical work. When I do outlets and switches I use 2 to 3 wraps of electrical tape around the terminals. Is this a good practice?? My house was built in 1965 and is wired in conduit which I think every house should have. Anyway, most of the outlet boxes are a little tight tight especially when replacing standard outlets with GFCI's. That's the primary reason I tape around the terminal screws. What's your take on this??
Dont use flip levers of any kind.
I like the back wiring and havnt tried the clip wiring
Would you recommend replacing an outlet with a surge protector outlet versus a surge power strip? I have 2 outlets behind my tv and don't need 6 plugs like on strip.
Can we see a closeup of the back of the outlet when wired. I think we could see it better. Keep up the great videos.
where do you find the decor plugs with the wago style grip they are not in home depot that I saw here in Canada.
Your lucky you didnt use them.
I'm with you. Side wire works but the Pro is the way to go. Speed receptacles are crap. The new tap systems look weak to me but I would like to take one apart.
DYI home owner here. I like the side screws for outlets and switches. Hey those rubber spacers… THOSE ARE GREAT!!! Where can I get them and what are they called? Thank you!
I've used those rubber spacers and they are miracle workers. They should have them at any big box home improvement store, and they are cheap and you get enough to last a lifetime.
I’ve seen failures with the push in/back wired receptacles. Never seen problems when a I hook is used
I prefer your LaGrange Commercial Duplex outlets over Decora, and especially over Home Grade Duplex bent-arch screw down. I have an assortment pack of WAGOs from your link.
DIY er love what you did with the place.
I am not an electrician, but the receptacle you called a commercial grade from my understanding it’s considered an industrial grade receptacle. Not sure if there is a difference but just thought I would mention it
DIYer here. Professional electrician showed me how to wrap the outlet with a couple of turns of electrical tape to cover the exposed side terminals and protect them from unintended contact with ground wires etc. in crowded boxes. I always do that now.
I like the Leviton Edge.... but will argue against it for one reason... You never know when you're gonna run into a setup where 4 wires isn't enough. You can get bulk packs of regular/commercial grade outlets and KNOW you'll be able to mirror the existing wire mapping without needing to run out and get Wago 221s, or wire nuts to make pig-tails. So, if you're doing a bulk replacement... just go with a commercial option, and save yourself some time, mileage, and frustration.
I just replaced all outlets and switches in the house I bought, since they were all 30 years old, many weren't securely holding plugs and all were ugly almond. I bought Leviton Edge for simplicity sake, but wound up needing to get regular decoras to mirror the wiring for both switches and outlets. One day, I'll get an electrician in here to clean up the screwy areas with proper groupings and pigtails... but it shouldn't be necessary for a while.
I bought the top grade outlets as they are nylon and extremely tough.
Thank you.
I've been DIY for nearly 60 years. I like the commercial grade outlets but I have come across more than one of the back stabbed outlets that had become loose or actually pulled plumb apart. I'm gonna stick with the side screwed j-wire connection.
I understand the serviceability benefits, however in reality how often do I expect to service an outlet? once every 5 years? I agree with the switch to commercial grade outlets, but not for the serviceability aspect :)
I work on the industrial side. We use stranded wire almost exclusively. The commercial outlets and switches work best in this setting.
I have been wiring almost everything you can imagine for over 50 years. Started using Wagos about a year ago.
DIY: like the commercial grade straight connection, without back stabbing the outlet.
💯
I only purchase and use the type outlets that you are recommending .
Either one is fine but for ease of installation back wiring is easier & faster.Also just like using Wago’s you should only need to trim your wires once & never have to worry about shortening them again in the future.Just like soldering you should know how to use a J hook or Shepherds hook & I personally would tape the terminals & screw in any unused terminal screws so they don’t accidentally touch the metal boxes.First time you touch a terminal to a metal box live you won’t forget it.Fourth of July!
You convinced me a long time ago to only use commercial grade outlets and switches and I do back wiring, j hooks get cut off.
One big problem with the A commercial or residential is that holes in the back of the outlet in you can only put 14 awg wire in them,But most codes require 12 awg or bigger.
I am using the commercial outlets on my home.
Nothing wrong with J hooks vs what you showed on the commercial receptical. It's personal preference IMO
I just finished replacing all switches and receptacles in a 40 year old house. Fully 10% of the backstab “connections” did not need to be released. The wires just came out when the device was pulled from the box.
Pro....I think side wiring is fine, when properly done. Don't think there's any real difference between the methods. Worked well to long to argue. However I think the upgraded outlets (Pro) are much better built and stand up to a lot more use before getting loose feeling. I will always spend the difference. Can't stand poor quality anything.
I like the more mechanical of a connection this is.
Seems like you and a few other DIY creators on TH-cam keep coming back to this set of observations. We get it; honest.
This guy sells them thats why.
I can see how you could think that this would be easier for diy but some people that have never done wiring before don’t check and make sure they have the wire under the clamps the side wiring with the hooks and a rez receptacle will save you money $1.00 receptacle compared to $2.50 receptacle so it comes down to if you think that you have the skills to do it correctly and how much you want to spend and I will admit that the speck grade receptacles are a heavier grade and will take more abuse, and I’ve been doing electric work for 30 years. The other thing that you need to watch out for is if your house was built in the 60’s or early 70’s and has aluminum wire, because if you do side wiring with the hooks will be better because the aluminum wire is softer than copper and because of that the wires have a greater chance of becoming loose over time.
Thanx.
Diy'er and I like yor method....
Thanks for the feedback!
It’s interesting to me that the new lever outlets have the ground on the same side as the hot terminals. On all of the other outlets, the ground is on the neutral side. I wonder what the reasoning is.
Definitely like the commercial first and side wire second. Do not like and will not use new lever style. Never used the rear stab connection. 40 years electrical experience.
I think there is confusion about the term "backwiring". Some outlets and switches have a stab-lock type of backwiring where you just push the wire into a hole on the outlet and a spring catches the wire. There is no screw to tighten. This type of wiring is illegal in some places in the US. The backwiring method you demonstrated actually pinches the wire between two metal tabs. You must tighten the screw to hold the wire in place.
Need to find those spacers you used, that could really save some time and effort as I find every contractor does an awful job cutting drywall. I’d rather have some loose wires and use old work boxes, but that’s a different topic. On the subject of j hooks, I feel like you probably shouldn’t be DIYing this sort of thing if you can’t pull that off. The slide under terminals are nice, but I’ve not going to buy devices based on that and I’ll do the j hook as needed. DIYer here.
Gardner Bender GSP04. Lowes keeps them on the shelf, or you can mail order from Zoro, Home Depot, etc. Or you can use a box extender.
I don’t have an issue with back-wiring at home (if done properly, using the best tools, on a receptacle well-suited for that style of landing the wires.)
Electoral trade for 46 years. I hate plastic yoke devices. I don't stock standard commercial grade receps on the van. I use Leviton side wire receps.
J- hook for me. I really like the commercial ones but not willing to pay 3x the cost. Regular ones are $5.60 for 10. Commercial are $20.92 for 10 at my local Hone Depot.
As much as I get aggravated when a receptacle gets loose or fails, and as much as I hate changing receptacles and switches, I’ll gladly pay an additional $1.53 per receptacle to upgrade to commercial grade. Even when you’re talking about an entire house, the cost difference works out to the price of a few dinners in a halfway decent restaurant, or a few tanks of gas.
@@DavidBugea Agreed...I changed ALL the outlets when I recently moved, and used Scott's recommendation for the Legrand commercial outlets. (after watching his video where he cut them all apart and showed WHY he liked them so much).
Spec grade back wire all day. So much easier and every bit as secure.