Steve this is such a great video. You guys showed how hard it is to work all the bugs out of a new race engine package. It's not cut and dry . It really shows SME experience here in this video as an engine builder and tuner !!! Plus I love the SML !!!!!
Race cars are easy , said no one ever . These guys solved like 13 small issues to complete a dyno session . Good catch on the one guy picking up on the dead cylinder from the broken plug wire .
I am consistently amazed at how cars seem to be running good, get on the dyno, and you find multiple problems that could be catastrophic to the engine. And had you not did the dyno, you wouldn't know until it broke. The oil pressure, the bad wires, air leaks, etc... amazing how all this can be found early and resolved.
I get so tickled at Dewey: "hey look, somebody's here... I will go say hi -> dangit, dad put up the Dewey-gate again... BAD DAD... BAD!" (tried to figure out how to open door)
I'm sure he will once he finally gets them done and ready to ship out. I guarantee the biggest factor on the amount out in the wild is price cause I know they ain't cheap.
7:33 great idea Steve. If you have a 3" fly cutter you will end up with a better result. End mills induce a lot of compression force into the part and machined surface. The part wants to deflect or chatter under the pressure of the end mill. Something like a fly cutter head will exert much less compression force although you cant take more than 2 thou or so at a pass. In the sake of machine time, I completely understand your choice in tooling
That was a really flexy setup, and if it was a sharp endmill (not flatted at the tips as some steel-cutting endmills are) then the endmill may have exerted less force or be less prone to harmonics as it runs the pass. If the setup was more rigid I could see a flycutter doing a better job, but as-is I think endmilling was the way to go (listen to it singing with the small tool, imagine how it would be with a 3" flycutter).
Now that’s a long time on the testing but has to done. That would suck at a track trying to figure the car out. Dyno time is we’ll worth it. Great job guys.
If those questions are coming from your camera guy, i like that he's asking intelligent and interesting questions instead of "What's that thingy majig do that lights up?".
Anyone who thinks making big power is easy is just kidding themselves Steve it’s interesting watching and listening to your crew work through the process !!!
Spark plug porcelain fail. I've had that happen on a regular people motor ( carb and distributor ) . Moved plugs / wires around and found a non firing plug. Looked at the plug holding it threads up and it looked fine but wet with fuel, ohmed it out and it was fine. At some point I turned it over and caught the porcelain moving covering the gap.
I learned a few things on this one. I knew the higher the cylinder pressure the harder it is to spark. What I did not see coming was a spark plug wire working at lower boost and then arcing through the insulation at higher boost. Thanks for the education as always. Bobby did a nice job on Cow Boy Up!!!
Now I’m no machinist, but wouldn’t a fly cutter be a better option would machining the flange of the header so it does the whole surface in one pass instead of haven’t to do multiple paths back and forth
I replied with this to another post, here's my 2cents worth [close to five decades as a machinist, but that doesn't mean I'm always right]: That was a really flexy setup, and if it was a sharp endmill (not flatted at the tips as some steel-cutting endmills are) then the endmill may have exerted less force or be less prone to harmonics as it runs the pass. If the setup was more rigid I could see a flycutter doing a better job, but as-is I think endmilling was the way to go (listen to it singing with the small tool, imagine how it would be with a 3" flycutter).
@@davidg3944 ah ok, thanks for the explanation I can see why they went with that choice, I was just thinking about it how you would if you were to resurface a cylinder head and not about harmonics of deflections caused by the cutting forces
Its amazing that you can keep these engines running for s whole drag and drive given how complicated the whole systems is for dragging and then driving. Every little part can screw you..
Steve, just had a plug go bad on my 2L VW. Porcelain cone fragments in piston and head. another fragment held valve open just enough to damage lifter and valve(shiny spot on valve relief in piston). this seems to be happening more and more often.
I was wondering about frequency of spark plug failures - old tech, should have the bugs worked out in firing ceramics. Changes in composition to lower cost, not as easy to get certain elements as before (China?), labor force just doesn't GaS? I made prototype plugs ages ago, would have thought this a non-issue.
@@davidg3944 I agree and sparkplugs have been around 100 years. Maybe there are more engines running power adders? Now it seems like everybody has "BIG TURBO". My N/A Reher-Morrison 468 NEVER had the porcelain fail.
Have you considered adding a small mounting location for a small idler pulley for the race fuel pump, so you can quickly remove and install the belt. Like the LS idler, just turn to remove or install the belt?
@@njclsx4252 Thank you so much, brother. I will do just that! I just gotta get over the jitters about f-ing this thing up and get it built already. I have all the best stuff; brand new 2JZ-GTE short block in a Toyota crate from the dealership, the Yamaha 1JZ head and twin turbochargers and all of the HKS timing bits, ARP, etc. I’ve just only ever built 3S-GTE Yamaha/Toyota engines my whole life (They’re the same exact thing only 4cyl). Hope I don’t screw this up. Yall wish me luck.
Header flange Needs to be run on an old school cylinder head belt sander I'd also cut the flange in the middle so there is some flex so any warpage is taken up when the header is bolted to the head. RE 2 cylinders , 3 bolts
Thanks Steve for taking us along for the ride.This problem solving and trouble shooting is just part of the learning curve. Soon all of this will be water under the bridge. No one has ever said this type of work is easy and you will get it figured out.
I absolutely love to see the process to get horsepower. I find this more fascinating than the race itself. I appreciate that you don't just show the finished product and act like it always magically happens. This was really cool to see the trials and tribulations. Bravo!
I am not a car freak, but as an engineer I know about the laws of nature and high voltage. My guess is. Increasing the pressure of a gas increases its insulation resistance. The ignition voltage must therefore increase. So far only physics. Now I suspect how it could have happened. The insulation of the ignition cables has broken down. Always at a certain pressure. As a result, the engine's performance could not increase any further after a certain point. Because the ignition stops at that moment. I had something in the high jump lab. Always at a specific voltage it did not go any further and you could hear it pop. We then cut open the insulation and were able to see that glue or a similar substance had reached the cable at the bottom of the plug during production. The pipe was black at the top. Probably from the vaporized material in the area. Could perhaps be the same for you. Greetings Erik
Well they had to take the car off the dyno, pull the tranny and take it to be repaired, put it back on the dyno and that’s after figuring out the problem with it and that’s just one item.
I don’t know the owner of Cowboy Up, but I’m sure we would be great friends. That car is absolutely beautiful with a touch of perfection with a lot of class. Thanks Steve for posting. 😊
I bought literally thee last set of Tri- Y headers from Doug's for the 345cid IHC in my '77 Scout. When I called him to ask about the warping on one of them. He told me that's normal, and if they're installed properly with the gaskets supplied. There's not gonna be a problem. Turns out he was right, and they sealed up fine. Only problem I learned real quickly, is that the variances in gasket thicknesses between brands. Can mean the difference between getting the starter in and out, or not. It took me almost an hour to figure out what the F I'd done to create this SNAFU. Really sucks having to loosen the header to get the stater out. Obviously your situation is completely different, and those flanges might not flex as easily. Your also going into aluminum instead of cast iron. Big difference. Plus I could compinsate by using bigger headed fasteners with star lockwashers that spread the tourqe load out. Looks like that's not an option on those, like many huge primary pipe headers. My Tri-Y IHC headers are beasty, but not that beasty. Peace!
If they're mirrored they have to carry a spare for each side instead of just a single spare. On drag and drives they have to carry all their parts and tools with them so space is limited. Big turbos are pretty expensive (5-7 thousand) so I'm sure that's a factor too
Steve, just my two cents but by the time you built the fixture and indicated it in you could've had it done with a surface plate and piece of 120 sandpaper. It's not fun, but it's better than wasting CNC space on a header flange. I could have a flange done in about 20 mins, plus it's a decent exercise 😂
It was off by 20 thousanths. The Way they used was much faster and more accurate than what you would have achieved, and the 20 min comment was the icing on the cake that you don't understand the situation.
I love how you show The Struggle Bus I'm sending this to a few of my customers who've run into this and don't believe that it's normal but I will say it is possible to pressurize the cooling system just not with combustion gases unless you're running an open system the expanding coolant is still going to pressurize it
Beautiful motor+, beautiful car... nice build, overall. Ha, I thought I was the only one to use barn door handles on doors! Painted, tho, that's fancy.
Steve I think that’s really cool of you about engine builders being able to buy your stuff and build it themselves. I would love to use some of your stuff but I don’t think you have much or any bb mopar wedge engine stuff. Nice work! Whole lot of little things added up
Question for Steve! Could you do a deep dive explanation of the cooling system in the SMX and SML as it relates to pressurization? I thought the pressure was to raise the boiling point of the coolant. If there’s no pressure, then what happens when it reaches that boiling point? Do you run pure water as coolant or an antifreeze mix? Do some tracks require pure water in the event of a coolant system failure?
@UltimateUltimaRS i am not convinced the pressurization was actually planned for originally. I think it is something that occurs on a closed system simply due to coolant expanding from being heated. Steve really needs to explain why/how coolant temps are bring kept below 212 degrees F. Opening the rad cap on an engine sitting at 220 degrees will cause the coolant (assuming water due to most tracks requiring water coolant only) to begin boiling instantly, causing very nasty burns down your leg from the 3 or 4 cups of boiling water being puked on it from the open neck of radiator. I realize that aluminum is very good at dissipating heat, but with an ending producing that amount of horsepower is also creating a significant amount of heat. Perhaps he is counting on the engine only producing large amounts of heat over 10 seconds and then returned to an idle of shut down. The way he talks about it also sounds to me he is referring to it having a dry deck and as such the head gasket cannot pressurize the cooling system due to no physical access from cylinder to cooling system.
No kidding, with all new parts, wires, plugs, everything new. It doesn’t seem like you should have to check every new part you buy but I guess you should.
“I’m going to come up with a word other than “alrighty”, I’m thinking “so”………….alrighty so” 😂 Been waiting along time to see some Cowboy Up content. Can’t wait to see what an SML can do.👍
Stevo, starting a sleeve there, looking like old school gasser. Really dig your stuff. Keep on keeping on. Learned a bay-unch from steve tech. Saw a Corvette near Austin with plate# Rounchy something, Driving with no hood, intercooler, did a lean sneeze for us. Maybe turbo, maybe procharged, couldn't tell. Copper/Bronze Metalic. Anyone know an IH-35 Austin/San Antonio blown vette?
58psi of oil pressure at peak boost? Or did I read the wrong table. Thinking the oil and fuel pressure are just mislabeled on the computer as it showed 145 psi of fuel pressure?
If you have 58 psi of fuel pressure at 50 psi of boost you would only have 8 psi of fuel pressure entering the intake. So no. But they had the manual oil pressure gauge on so maybe it was not hooked up
In just a couple weeks you can charge 400$ an hour to use the video chat profile to consult other engine builders on how to use the parts they buy from you. Love it Steve your awesome. By far the smartest person I have met in Michigan!
That’s a lot of finding and fixing. Thanks for showing the real process of debugging a new combo.
" I'm going to think of a different word than Alrighty, I'm thinking... so. Alrighty so" 😂
Literally had me laughing out loud! 😂
Was hilarious
😂
Just a real nice guy.
Obviously...
That is a clean engine bay. The polished turbos look really cool. Well done whoever built the turbo kit too.
Believe Bob over at Tom Bailey's shop did everything
Bob at Baileys
BoB is the only one that does major work on that car
Steve this is such a great video. You guys showed how hard it is to work all the bugs out of a new race engine package. It's not cut and dry . It really shows SME experience here in this video as an engine builder and tuner !!! Plus I love the SML !!!!!
Race cars are easy , said no one ever . These guys solved like 13 small issues to complete a dyno session . Good catch on the one guy picking up on the dead cylinder from the broken plug wire .
They impressed me as well that’s good info. Mathing out what the cylinder hp is like a Sherlock move for me tho. 😂
That is a gorgeous engine bay polish job.
Mental Horsepower out of a 400+ ci Billy Badboy engine
SML is one of my favorite engines....Fuckin Sick
That's one sexy engine bay
It blows its own doors off
Haha 🤣🤣
I am consistently amazed at how cars seem to be running good, get on the dyno, and you find multiple problems that could be catastrophic to the engine. And had you not did the dyno, you wouldn't know until it broke. The oil pressure, the bad wires, air leaks, etc... amazing how all this can be found early and resolved.
I get so tickled at Dewey: "hey look, somebody's here... I will go say hi -> dangit, dad put up the Dewey-gate again... BAD DAD... BAD!" (tried to figure out how to open door)
Sml is a very underrated engine IMO. I'm surprised that you don't have way way more out there
Small block splayed caps large snout I wish he did a lts I love the old 010 Chevy small block
I'm sure he will once he finally gets them done and ready to ship out. I guarantee the biggest factor on the amount out in the wild is price cause I know they ain't cheap.
Unless it's been tested by Tony Angelo, you can't say it will never lift a head. Tony can break anything that's breakable.
Tony could break a brick with a rolled up newspaper….
Tony could break an anvil with a rubber mallet.
Cleetus is rough on equipment!
I sure miss you and Tom being at drag week. It just wasn't the same watching without you guys.
Cowboy Up looked cool at Bailey's but now! Whooweeeee
7:33 great idea Steve. If you have a 3" fly cutter you will end up with a better result. End mills induce a lot of compression force into the part and machined surface. The part wants to deflect or chatter under the pressure of the end mill. Something like a fly cutter head will exert much less compression force although you cant take more than 2 thou or so at a pass. In the sake of machine time, I completely understand your choice in tooling
That was a really flexy setup, and if it was a sharp endmill (not flatted at the tips as some steel-cutting endmills are) then the endmill may have exerted less force or be less prone to harmonics as it runs the pass. If the setup was more rigid I could see a flycutter doing a better job, but as-is I think endmilling was the way to go (listen to it singing with the small tool, imagine how it would be with a 3" flycutter).
That build is unreal. killer engine and the plumbing for the turbos is insane. Kudos to all involved.
2500hp drag and drive ls. Hell yeah Steve
I have to say, I really like that you put a date on when you filmed a segment. This helps us understand the process a bit better.
Steve getting ink done
I thought the right arm looks new
Looks horrible
Not done and actually it
Is very nice
I didn’t think I remembered that being there.
@@stevemorrisracing I thought that was new, let us have look Steve when it's done.
Now that’s a long time on the testing but has to done. That would suck at a track trying to figure the car out. Dyno time is we’ll worth it. Great job guys.
If those questions are coming from your camera guy, i like that he's asking intelligent and interesting questions instead of "What's that thingy majig do that lights up?".
Anyone who thinks making big power is easy is just kidding themselves
Steve it’s interesting watching and listening to your crew work through the process !!!
Great Work Stevo... We have had problems with Cracking Porcelins in spark plugs here in Australia...
Spark plug porcelain fail.
I've had that happen on a regular people motor ( carb and distributor ) . Moved plugs / wires around and found a non firing plug. Looked at the plug holding it threads up and it looked fine but wet with fuel, ohmed it out and it was fine. At some point I turned it over and caught the porcelain moving covering the gap.
It has become far too common lately with all the fake Chinese copy spark plugs hitting the market.
I learned a few things on this one. I knew the higher the cylinder pressure the harder it is to spark. What I did not see coming was a spark plug wire working at lower boost and then arcing through the insulation at higher boost. Thanks for the education as always. Bobby did a nice job on Cow Boy Up!!!
Now I’m no machinist, but wouldn’t a fly cutter be a better option would machining the flange of the header so it does the whole surface in one pass instead of haven’t to do multiple paths back and forth
I replied with this to another post, here's my 2cents worth [close to five decades as a machinist, but that doesn't mean I'm always right]:
That was a really flexy setup, and if it was a sharp endmill (not flatted at the tips as some steel-cutting endmills are) then the endmill may have exerted less force or be less prone to harmonics as it runs the pass. If the setup was more rigid I could see a flycutter doing a better job, but as-is I think endmilling was the way to go (listen to it singing with the small tool, imagine how it would be with a 3" flycutter).
@@davidg3944 ah ok, thanks for the explanation I can see why they went with that choice, I was just thinking about it how you would if you were to resurface a cylinder head and not about harmonics of deflections caused by the cutting forces
Its amazing that you can keep these engines running for s whole drag and drive given how complicated the whole systems is for dragging and then driving. Every little part can screw you..
Sad that new parts need to be thoroughly checked, even from what were considered quality companies 4 years ago. Thanks Joey B.
I started watching this for the Bg Black Hemi and he's got me hooked.
Welcome aboard! Steve shows some really cool stuff here, he shares a lot of his tricks and secrets too.
Steve, just had a plug go bad on my 2L VW. Porcelain cone fragments in piston and head. another fragment held valve open just enough to damage lifter and valve(shiny spot on valve relief in piston). this seems to be happening more and more often.
I was wondering about frequency of spark plug failures - old tech, should have the bugs worked out in firing ceramics. Changes in composition to lower cost, not as easy to get certain elements as before (China?), labor force just doesn't GaS? I made prototype plugs ages ago, would have thought this a non-issue.
@@davidg3944 I agree and sparkplugs have been around 100 years. Maybe there are more engines running power adders? Now it seems like everybody has "BIG TURBO". My N/A Reher-Morrison 468 NEVER had the porcelain fail.
I’m just amazed at watching you tuning those engines and are able to troubleshoot every detail
Have you considered adding a small mounting location for a small idler pulley for the race fuel pump, so you can quickly remove and install the belt. Like the LS idler, just turn to remove or install the belt?
“Im not going to say alrighty I’m going to say so instead, alrighty so”
Man, that's one sweet Nova 😊
Great watching the process
Thoughts on ganging vacuum/pressure lines?
26:39 that made me smile too😊
“Doesn’t matter to me man” I was😂 cracking up lol 😆
Yay! Been waiting for this beast to come out and play.
If I could find a channel likes yours but for JZ stuff, I’d be so much further along on my project. Thanks for the knowledge and the motivation!
Jay from rs garage has forgotten more about the jz engine, then most will ever learn,check em out
@@njclsx4252
Thank you so much, brother. I will do just that!
I just gotta get over the jitters about f-ing this thing up and get it built already. I have all the best stuff; brand new 2JZ-GTE short block in a Toyota crate from the dealership, the Yamaha 1JZ head and twin turbochargers and all of the HKS timing bits, ARP, etc.
I’ve just only ever built 3S-GTE Yamaha/Toyota engines my whole life (They’re the same exact thing only 4cyl). Hope I don’t screw this up. Yall wish me luck.
@@negativeindustrial your welcomed
Super technical troubleshooting video awesome
Enjoyed this! So many small components are surprising how much it changes things.
Was starting to think it was an ebay turbo kit with all of those issues! Including knock off plugs😁
Always learn so much. Thanks for being so open and informative.
That SML with all the goodies bolted to it is one nice looking package. Engineering art.
I've had 2 ngk porcelain crack on me, it had me going crazy with a deadmiss. Finally checked the plugs and saw cracks.
Makes you wonder if they are real NGK plugs or the fake Chinese copies that have made their way into our market.
Chuck Watson used to use a big belt sander with a trued-up flat shoe to flatten out header flanges.
A lot of guys have successfully used that method. But on a 3000 HP turbo engine I do like Steve’s method to insure no leaks at the header flanges.
Digging the cooling setup for radiator oil and trans on the CB up.
I swear I see the passenger side inlet clamp near the throttle body moving when you do a dyno pull. I think it's loose.
It does, it is a dual seal clamp not a v band clamp
@@stevemorrisracing Wiggins or copy?
@@stevemorrisracing- Those are the coolest!
Vibrant also does a set.
You must have been pretty stoked when you found the air leaks.
Header flange
Needs to be run on an old school cylinder head belt sander
I'd also cut the flange in the middle so there is some flex so any warpage is taken up when the header is bolted to the head. RE 2 cylinders , 3 bolts
I had a plug do that on a jetski. 2 stroke yamaha but the plug broke in the same way!
Looking forward to seeking you guys at the track
@ 43:20....
This is exactly why you take your junk to a chassis dyno tune session.
Best money spent on a racecar build... In my humble opinion. 😊
Would cutting the flange between the middle cylinders help here? "We" used to do that on top-mount turbo manifolds on imports and it helped.
When I get established I want one of these 15 passes or more no valve lash check well built my man
The best engines on the market.....
Thanks Steve for taking us along for the ride.This problem solving and trouble shooting is just part of the learning curve. Soon all of this will be water under the bridge. No one has ever said this type of work is easy and you will get it figured out.
I absolutely love to see the process to get horsepower. I find this more fascinating than the race itself.
I appreciate that you don't just show the finished product and act like it always magically happens. This was really cool to see the trials and tribulations.
Bravo!
All this was checked on the engine Dino almost 2 years ago
Except for the transmission issue
Great video Steve putting the work in 😅 just a round figure on what it costs to build a car like the nova?
I am not a car freak, but as an engineer I know about the laws of nature and high voltage.
My guess is. Increasing the pressure of a gas increases its insulation resistance. The ignition voltage must therefore increase. So far only physics.
Now I suspect how it could have happened. The insulation of the ignition cables has broken down. Always at a certain pressure. As a result, the engine's performance could not increase any further after a certain point. Because the ignition stops at that moment.
I had something in the high jump lab. Always at a specific voltage it did not go any further and you could hear it pop. We then cut open the insulation and were able to see that glue or a similar substance had reached the cable at the bottom of the plug during production. The pipe was black at the top. Probably from the vaporized material in the area.
Could perhaps be the same for you.
Greetings Erik
And then he says alrighty so. Lol
That Nova is the sexiest clean engine setup I have ever seen...
Man jewelry for sure.
Its hard to believe that it took 2 days to sort out this engine.
Well they had to take the car off the dyno, pull the tranny and take it to be repaired, put it back on the dyno and that’s after figuring out the problem with it and that’s just one item.
I don’t know the owner of Cowboy Up, but I’m sure we would be great friends. That car is absolutely beautiful with a touch of perfection with a lot of class. Thanks Steve for posting. 😊
24:57 A tad of Nitrous will bring it up on the 2 step quickly without compromising his transmission performance
Masterclass in the engine bay 👌💪 well done guy's a few curve balls but you persevered & got it stonking 🔥🚀
I bought literally thee last set of Tri- Y headers from Doug's for the 345cid IHC in my '77 Scout. When I called him to ask about the warping on one of them. He told me that's normal, and if they're installed properly with the gaskets supplied. There's not gonna be a problem. Turns out he was right, and they sealed up fine.
Only problem I learned real quickly, is that the variances in gasket thicknesses between brands. Can mean the difference between getting the starter in and out, or not. It took me almost an hour to figure out what the F I'd done to create this SNAFU. Really sucks having to loosen the header to get the stater out.
Obviously your situation is completely different, and those flanges might not flex as easily. Your also going into aluminum instead of cast iron. Big difference. Plus I could compinsate by using bigger headed fasteners with star lockwashers that spread the tourqe load out. Looks like that's not an option on those, like many huge primary pipe headers. My Tri-Y IHC headers are beasty, but not that beasty. Peace!
Beautiful engine compartment! Not ideal with the intakes behind the rad though 😅 why ain’t mirror image turbos a thing yet?
I think Nelson Racing Engines has a patent on mirror image turbos.
If they're mirrored they have to carry a spare for each side instead of just a single spare. On drag and drives they have to carry all their parts and tools with them so space is limited. Big turbos are pretty expensive (5-7 thousand) so I'm sure that's a factor too
Thanks for showing how it really happens warts and all. This is reality.
That CB UP Nova is a Beautifully put together car. Credit to you Jason sir !!!
Anybody know who built the chassis/body ?
Nice tat Steve.
Tom Bailey’s shop.
He's lucky he'll still be able to use that chassis
The way it was repaired I'm worried it'll going to expose a new "weak link" (tube, more accurately).
Steve, just my two cents but by the time you built the fixture and indicated it in you could've had it done with a surface plate and piece of 120 sandpaper. It's not fun, but it's better than wasting CNC space on a header flange.
I could have a flange done in about 20 mins, plus it's a decent exercise 😂
It was off by 20 thousanths. The Way they used was much faster and more accurate than what you would have achieved, and the 20 min comment was the icing on the cake that you don't understand the situation.
Belt sander…
I love how you show The Struggle Bus I'm sending this to a few of my customers who've run into this and don't believe that it's normal but I will say it is possible to pressurize the cooling system just not with combustion gases unless you're running an open system the expanding coolant is still going to pressurize it
Beautiful motor+, beautiful car... nice build, overall.
Ha, I thought I was the only one to use barn door handles on doors! Painted, tho, that's fancy.
God bless America
My initials are ES too, haha
My initials are ES too 😅
Another good indication of a big boost leak can be increased emap. Especially if u know what emap should be at that boost level.
Saw that bad mamajama in person today!!! Thanks again Steve!! Hi dewey :)
Watching you go through diagnostics is always educational. Much appreciated!
Steve I think that’s really cool of you about engine builders being able to buy your stuff and build it themselves. I would love to use some of your stuff but I don’t think you have much or any bb mopar wedge engine stuff. Nice work! Whole lot of little things added up
Another great video Steve
Question for Steve! Could you do a deep dive explanation of the cooling system in the SMX and SML as it relates to pressurization? I thought the pressure was to raise the boiling point of the coolant. If there’s no pressure, then what happens when it reaches that boiling point? Do you run pure water as coolant or an antifreeze mix? Do some tracks require pure water in the event of a coolant system failure?
@UltimateUltimaRS i am not convinced the pressurization was actually planned for originally. I think it is something that occurs on a closed system simply due to coolant expanding from being heated. Steve really needs to explain why/how coolant temps are bring kept below 212 degrees F. Opening the rad cap on an engine sitting at 220 degrees will cause the coolant (assuming water due to most tracks requiring water coolant only) to begin boiling instantly, causing very nasty burns down your leg from the 3 or 4 cups of boiling water being puked on it from the open neck of radiator.
I realize that aluminum is very good at dissipating heat, but with an ending producing that amount of horsepower is also creating a significant amount of heat. Perhaps he is counting on the engine only producing large amounts of heat over 10 seconds and then returned to an idle of shut down.
The way he talks about it also sounds to me he is referring to it having a dry deck and as such the head gasket cannot pressurize the cooling system due to no physical access from cylinder to cooling system.
Big belt sander for headers works fairly well
Man that is one awesome hot rod!
What a beast! Beautiful Nova.
😮It takes a pro to work through so many weird issues that the Nova had.
No kidding, with all new parts, wires, plugs, everything new. It doesn’t seem like you should have to check every new part you buy but I guess you should.
Lord increase the faith and love of Steve Morris amen.
Oh hell, yeah I can’t wait for the big pumpkin to get going
“I’m going to come up with a word other than “alrighty”, I’m thinking “so”………….alrighty so” 😂
Been waiting along time to see some Cowboy Up content. Can’t wait to see what an SML can do.👍
In my neighborhood growing up in the 80 there was 2 69 or 70 novas blue with a black vinyl tops on both . I've wanted one ever since. 1 day
Stevo, starting a sleeve there, looking like old school gasser. Really dig your stuff. Keep on keeping on. Learned a bay-unch from steve tech. Saw a Corvette near Austin with plate# Rounchy something, Driving with no hood, intercooler, did a lean sneeze for us. Maybe turbo, maybe procharged, couldn't tell. Copper/Bronze Metalic. Anyone know an IH-35 Austin/San Antonio blown vette?
HP sure isn't easy.
58psi of oil pressure at peak boost? Or did I read the wrong table. Thinking the oil and fuel pressure are just mislabeled on the computer as it showed 145 psi of fuel pressure?
If you have 58 psi of fuel pressure at 50 psi of boost you would only have 8 psi of fuel pressure entering the intake. So no. But they had the manual oil pressure gauge on so maybe it was not hooked up
Bad plug wire, leaking blowoff and wastegate.... damn gremlins got to this one
This is with all new parts too, I guess the saying “Trust nothing, verify everything “ really works here.
In just a couple weeks you can charge 400$ an hour to use the video chat profile to consult other engine builders on how to use the parts they buy from you. Love it Steve your awesome. By far the smartest person I have met in Michigan!
Thanks for another great video!
awesome.. cant wait to see it on track
This is a Double Coffee & a pkt of Biscuits post.!
Awesome start to any day I'd say...😎
Great video I learned something again. Thanks