Cam just wanted to let you know after I asked about fibrillation issues. You referred to this post. Today we tried it and made a 2 hit white look great on a garbage Gildan Hoodie. Been doing this for 8 years and everyday we try to learn new things to help our business. Just wanted to say thank you and will tune in tomorrow night for the next live gig! Cheers
I feel like this "trick" is one of the biggest contributing factors towards us being a successful professional print shop while actually being a complete newbie to the industry with zero experience...sure it costs time and yes you should know how to do better prints but until you get there.... THIS IS THE SOLUTION! this one thing has been life-changing for me
Hey Cam, Vgood tip. I will try this. Man I tell ya, the indy t-shirt community is the most sharing bunch of people out of all industries. Nothings secret. Good on you and hello from Tasmania Cheers Bloke!
I have used a heat press (160deg, medium pressure, 5sec) to flatten single colour white prints that sometime end up feeling like sandpaper. Works like a charm, but this method could be useful for applying multi-colours. YOU’RE BOSS, HOSS!
This is something different. I havent heard of this route before and just bought a heat press...how do you get the ink after applying the base not to stick to the heat press or even the material (teflon) inbetween? It wont stick to the teflon even being that wet?
Hi Cam, I guess that would work somewhat, probably better than nothing. However using silicone spray is a no-no, for me anyway, that could leave a layer between the base coat and the 2nd application of ink, causing peeling or a color fade effect on multi colored prints after being in the wash. Generally most of the Fibrillation that I have encountered happens when the garment is in the wash, but that's only on light colored garments with no white base printed to lock in the fibers and while using a high mesh of 305. I think what your are talking about is the " pot Hole" effect , on the base quote. Which leads to the 2nd quote looking like crap. To remedy that situation I use tighter mesh screens, sharpened squeegee blades and thin out the viscosity of the ink to match the mesh count flow. The rule of thumb is to make sure that all of the ink has passed through or cleared the screen before flashing, that where the problem is. I'm from New Jersey, so being that the temperature is all over the place in terms of highs and lows, we get that a lot, even on a auto. Anyway, good job, keeping an open discussion for us screen printers. I'll have to check out some of your other videos, maybe I can pick up a few tips. Thanks.
If you print on an automatic, they make roller squeegees and teflon sheets specifically for this. Another option, especially if the ink has already been cured and cooled, is to use a heat press. I did this years ago when I was new to screen printing and had a shirt or two come out rough. However, too much heat/pressure will cause the ink to be too smooth and have a glossy look. certain garments are extremely difficult to achieve a smooth print on. The ST450 is a prime example! In these cases, you will need to use a technique like this or thinner inks.
Thank you for watching. Teflon sheets are a better choice, test if you like the process then if your into it and like the results tape a teflon sheet to the bottom of the smoothing screen.
2 questions regarding the flattening screen: 1) What are your options for particular mediums to squeegee on top? ie. Reducer, Ink, etc.? (obviously you dont want to waste product on this screen, right?) 2) Regarding the silicon spray - that stuff plays nice with the garment that it touches each time?? It doesnt ruin or deposit spray onto the shirt? ... ... and a separate but related question - Any recommendations for allowing proper cool down on your pallet when you only have 1 station??... I recently purchased a cheap ironing board from Target to combat this last week so ill have an alternative place to cure and not heat the crap out of my pallet... but always looking for more efficient ways to do things. Thanks Cam!
for the flat stroke anything will work ink, reducer, base, whatever, and the spray dose not leave any deposit. if you don't like that stuff you can tape a Teflon sheet to the bottom of the screen.
Shaun Brown - get some scrap 2x4's and some scrap plywood and diy a cheap carousel curing station. Base, post, 4 arms with plywood attached to the end. Need to fab something in the middle so it can spin. Then after you print, lay shirt on one arm of the curing station. As you print, one is curing, then you spin next shirt under the flash and pint next shirt. Bob mongello has some good diy screen printing videos. As far as this, I'd rather use teflon, the lesser aerosol overspray on the shop, the better...and I have a plethora of teflon lol
Just did this at my shop. Man the results are GREAT. Only knock is it’s obviously an extra swipe. Can be time consuming. I saw another tip you mentioned where to just use a 150 mesh count to lay less ink at a time. Going to try that next. Thanks Cam.
THANK YOU, dude. I just had tons of trouble with a white underbase sticking to the back of my second color. This info really helps! I'm still not quite sure how much to flash, I know it's suppose to feel rubbery, not dry (like it does when it's cured), a fine line to be sure. Temp gun is good (to 280deg, I believe), but letting the print cool is a really helpful tip :) I'm concerned about the colors not curing together if I overflash. I've not had anyone come back to me to that effect yet, so it must be ok so far.
If you are getting the underbase that hot for that long, are you worried about over flashing? Basically curing the underbase, and whatever issues that may cause with adhesion of colors on top?
What is on the screen you're using to flatten? What are you pushing through in this step? Is it ink coming through from previous shirts or is it under-base or something else? I'm very new myself at printing and have found your videos very helpful.
on the Flattening screen #1 i need to cover it with Emolution right. and if i want to use a teflon sheet like you said in one of the coments..do i still need to cover it with emo?
Hey man, thanks for the tips. Question, if I can: Does the flattening screen only work with flats of white or can I use this technique for detailed white prints on dark tee's? I'm dealing with some serious fibrillation right now. Thanks!
Hey bro, keep up the good work. We appreciate you. I was wondering if I have to do a plastisol underbase when using waterbased ink OR can I use waterbased white as my under base?. I'm trying to understand underbase process. Thanks
Be careful bro, waterbase doesn't adhere to plastisol, its like mixing water and oil, it will wash out, use the waterbased white as underbase instead, an ultrawhite high opacity waterbased ink and it will look great, good luck and good vibes man.
Thanks for the vids, great help. I just started getting into screen printing and I have a question about multi color. I have a 4 color press and 2 of my friends who own businesses asked me if I can do shirts with their logos but each one has more than 4 colors, maybe more than 6 colors. What do you do if you have a job that involves more colors than you have on your press. Can it be done? Or do you just have to say no I can’t do it. Thanks.
i have seen tutorials which burn at each different spot and they do the 2 colors on one screen but section off so the ink doesnt mix with the other color.. Kinda weird but can be done...
Can silicone spray be utilized to print wet on wet? Will it stop the ink that has been laid down on the shirt from sticking to the next screen? Thank you!
I don't know if you can help or not or even respond. I am starting my own screen print here in Spokane. I am making the designs and doing everything myself. I am a disabled veteran and thought I can give back as well. My thought is 5% of all sales gets donated to local veteran organizations. My trouble is bleeding ink. My ink I am using is bleeding through all my shirts I don't know what I am doing wrong.
You for sure want to wipe the screen. I have never had any adhesion issues, but its still a good idea, when you mist lightley during production its not needed.
We tape out a screen with split tape on the face and well of a screen and pour some curable reducer on top. Push or pull the reducer as if it were ink.
Thanks man and I really appreciate your tips & videos! Stoked to finally have an industry source that is no bullshit and just real about the #printlife! keep it up man
Hey brother so I’ve been printing for a few months now I’m not doing too bad I feel like I’m ok I’ve figured everything out with all the info I get from your vids! Thanks btw. But I’ve only been doing one color prints I was nervous about doing multi color but I finally got myself together to print multi color and I fucked up because I didn’t think about lining up designs when I burned my screens so when I went to line up my registrations they were completely off. So my question is how do you line up your designs on your screens before you burn them? Please help me lol
Why is the screen printing only part of the graphic & the other half is not solider? And when we try to do it again the screen is caked up underneath the screen & sticks to the shirt.
Ok, i have a 4 station press with my flash positioned straight across from me so it wont be so hot on me. Will a fan with a 1 cooling station be enough, or should i bite the bullet on the heat and and have a 2 cooling station.
The more space you can create from the flash the better. I have seized so many screen because I'm not paying attention and do a print directly after a flash when the pallet is still hot.
Where is that 1/8 inch off contact thing that people usually talk about. Will off contact make any real difference in the print? Also Thanks for the tutorial.
Hi, I am using plastisol ink and this is what happening with my prints ( prnt.sc/p0f2hl ) even if I do a single stroke .. Please let me know what is this called and how to prevent this? Please see the attached images if you don't mind. Thank you very much.
If you’re flashing for 15 seconds you are likely over-flashing. Any color on top of over-flashed ink will not adhere. Be careful. I just don’t see the need to use that much heat to flash. Try flattening without using too much flash.
The Print Life hi sorry , i would like to thank you first for your videos, I need help with fibrillation, i do have fibrillation issue my black Tess, i want to try this method using flat screen, what you put on the screen instead of ink?
Cam just wanted to let you know after I asked about fibrillation issues. You referred to this post. Today we tried it and made a 2 hit white look great on a garbage Gildan Hoodie. Been doing this for 8 years and everyday we try to learn new things to help our business. Just wanted to say thank you and will tune in tomorrow night for the next live gig! Cheers
Yea man, it's takes more work but it so worth it on some jobs right.
I feel like this "trick" is one of the biggest contributing factors towards us being a successful professional print shop while actually being a complete newbie to the industry with zero experience...sure it costs time and yes you should know how to do better prints but until you get there.... THIS IS THE SOLUTION! this one thing has been life-changing for me
Hey Cam, Vgood tip. I will try this. Man I tell ya, the indy t-shirt community is the most sharing bunch of people out of all industries. Nothings secret. Good on you and hello from Tasmania Cheers Bloke!
Good video. Comparisons would be nice to see. One w/flattening and One w/o.
I have used a heat press (160deg, medium pressure, 5sec) to flatten single colour white prints that sometime end up feeling like sandpaper. Works like a charm, but this method could be useful for applying multi-colours.
YOU’RE BOSS, HOSS!
This is something different. I havent heard of this route before and just bought a heat press...how do you get the ink after applying the base not to stick to the heat press or even the material (teflon) inbetween? It wont stick to the teflon even being that wet?
@FNFforUS did you figure it out?
Hi Cam,
I guess that would work somewhat, probably better than nothing. However using silicone spray is a no-no, for me anyway, that could leave a layer between the base coat and the 2nd application of ink, causing peeling or a color fade effect on multi colored prints after being in the wash. Generally most of the Fibrillation that I have encountered happens when the garment is in the wash, but that's only on light colored garments with no white base printed to lock in the fibers and while using a high mesh of 305.
I think what your are talking about is the " pot Hole" effect , on the base quote. Which leads to the 2nd quote looking like crap. To remedy that situation I use tighter mesh screens, sharpened squeegee blades and thin out the viscosity of the ink to match the mesh count flow. The rule of thumb is to make sure that all of the ink has passed through or cleared the screen before flashing, that where the problem is. I'm from New Jersey, so being that the temperature is all over the place in terms of highs and lows, we get that a lot, even on a auto. Anyway, good job, keeping an open discussion for us screen printers. I'll have to check out some of your other videos, maybe I can pick up a few tips. Thanks.
If you print on an automatic, they make roller squeegees and teflon sheets specifically for this. Another option, especially if the ink has already been cured and cooled, is to use a heat press. I did this years ago when I was new to screen printing and had a shirt or two come out rough. However, too much heat/pressure will cause the ink to be too smooth and have a glossy look. certain garments are extremely difficult to achieve a smooth print on. The ST450 is a prime example! In these cases, you will need to use a technique like this or thinner inks.
Looks like a great technique wish my job would let us do this would help alot on white prints big time
Yea it works great, but is time consuming, We have switched to water based white but when we use plastisol we use this method.
@@ThePrintLife ah water based must be alot better. I've only been printing for couple months now, so I been looking here for tips haha.
This is great Cam. I will try doing this week. Keep them coming!
Hey instead of silicone spray, can I use teflon sheet? Or is the silicone much better to use?
RhyBeats - teflon puts less aerosol crap in the air in the shop. I use teflon. I somehow acquired a lot of it.
Jason Enz yup. I think I'll be doing that, I have some extra teflon here. Any tips on how to stick it on the screen?
Thanks! Good job
Thank you for watching. Teflon sheets are a better choice, test if you like the process then if your into it and like the results tape a teflon sheet to the bottom of the smoothing screen.
Great tip!
Exactly what i needed to know. Thanks.
Great tips! Thanks, Cam!
2 questions regarding the flattening screen:
1) What are your options for particular mediums to squeegee on top? ie. Reducer, Ink, etc.? (obviously you dont want to waste product on this screen, right?)
2) Regarding the silicon spray - that stuff plays nice with the garment that it touches each time?? It doesnt ruin or deposit spray onto the shirt? ...
... and a separate but related question -
Any recommendations for allowing proper cool down on your pallet when you only have 1 station??... I recently purchased a cheap ironing board from Target to combat this last week so ill have an alternative place to cure and not heat the crap out of my pallet... but always looking for more efficient ways to do things.
Thanks Cam!
for the flat stroke anything will work ink, reducer, base, whatever, and the spray dose not leave any deposit. if you don't like that stuff you can tape a Teflon sheet to the bottom of the screen.
Rad, thanks. Looking forward to trying to this.
Shaun Brown - get some scrap 2x4's and some scrap plywood and diy a cheap carousel curing station. Base, post, 4 arms with plywood attached to the end. Need to fab something in the middle so it can spin. Then after you print, lay shirt on one arm of the curing station. As you print, one is curing, then you spin next shirt under the flash and pint next shirt. Bob mongello has some good diy screen printing videos.
As far as this, I'd rather use teflon, the lesser aerosol overspray on the shop, the better...and I have a plethora of teflon lol
Im a handy guy and could def build this, however I do not have the room for something like this unfortunately. Cool idea though, thanks Jason.
@@ThePrintLife what type of silicone spray are you using? Or do you recommend?
YOU SHOULD TEACH US HOW TO SCREEN PRINT STICKERS / TAGS / PAPER POSTERS...ANYTHING HELPS YO, THANX CAM!!AND THE PRINT FAM!!
Just did this at my shop. Man the results are GREAT. Only knock is it’s obviously an extra swipe. Can be time consuming. I saw another tip you mentioned where to just use a 150 mesh count to lay less ink at a time. Going to try that next. Thanks Cam.
It is time consuming,
great technique! solved years of my troubles lol
THANK YOU, dude. I just had tons of trouble with a white underbase sticking to the back of my second color. This info really helps! I'm still not quite sure how much to flash, I know it's suppose to feel rubbery, not dry (like it does when it's cured), a fine line to be sure. Temp gun is good (to 280deg, I believe), but letting the print cool is a really helpful tip :)
I'm concerned about the colors not curing together if I overflash. I've not had anyone come back to me to that effect yet, so it must be ok so far.
I have heard of this over flashing phenomena but have never experienced it personally.
If you are getting the underbase that hot for that long, are you worried about over flashing? Basically curing the underbase, and whatever issues that may cause with adhesion of colors on top?
don't over flash, just flash and flatten, keep it simple
the silicone spray is so that the screens don't stick on the shirts right?
can you use the spray for already screens with the print on it?
more so the screen doesn't stick to the ink
Ive been lookin forward to this one
What do you have in your push screen?
love your videos good Job
What is on the screen you're using to flatten? What are you pushing through in this step? Is it ink coming through from previous shirts or is it under-base or something else? I'm very new myself at printing and have found your videos very helpful.
on the Flattening screen #1 i need to cover it with Emolution right. and if i want to use a teflon sheet like you said in one of the coments..do i still need to cover it with emo?
Hey man, thanks for the tips.
Question, if I can: Does the flattening screen only work with flats of white or can I use this technique for detailed white prints on dark tee's?
I'm dealing with some serious fibrillation right now.
Thanks!
What should we apply so that after a wash .. ink should not loose the shine ?
Thanks boss
Hi nice vids, what kind of ink is that plastisol or water based?
In this case it is Plastisol.
Hi, which brand of white ink are you using and what mesh size? And what mesh size for colours on top? Nice video, thanks.
Excuse my newness but how do you make the Flattening screen?
Hey bro, keep up the good work. We appreciate you. I was wondering if I have to do a plastisol underbase when using waterbased ink OR can I use waterbased white as my under base?. I'm trying to understand underbase process. Thanks
Be careful bro, waterbase doesn't adhere to plastisol, its like mixing water and oil, it will wash out, use the waterbased white as underbase instead, an ultrawhite high opacity waterbased ink and it will look great, good luck and good vibes man.
Thanks for the vids, great help. I just started getting into screen printing and I have a question about multi color. I have a 4 color press and 2 of my friends who own businesses asked me if I can do shirts with their logos but each one has more than 4 colors, maybe more than 6 colors. What do you do if you have a job that involves more colors than you have on your press. Can it be done? Or do you just have to say no I can’t do it. Thanks.
i have seen tutorials which burn at each different spot and they do the 2 colors on one screen but section off so the ink doesnt mix with the other color.. Kinda weird but can be done...
Can silicone spray be utilized to print wet on wet? Will it stop the ink that has been laid down on the shirt from sticking to the next screen? Thank you!
Yea you can that is pretty much the main reason for it's existence.
Heck yea it works great for wet on wet.
What silicone spray you using?
Comie 610 to keeps things slick
I don't know if you can help or not or even respond. I am starting my own screen print here in Spokane. I am making the designs and doing everything myself. I am a disabled veteran and thought I can give back as well. My thought is 5% of all sales gets donated to local veteran organizations. My trouble is bleeding ink. My ink I am using is bleeding through all my shirts I don't know what I am doing wrong.
thanks love
How often do you spray the screen with silicone? After every pass?
oh no just in the beginning, then if things start sticking I will give it another spray.
The Print Life thanks! Appreciate all the info you give us!
the flattening screen has no stencil right?
Do you think this would still work on an automatic press?
Do you need to wipe the excess silicone spray off the bottom of the flattening screen so the silicone doesn't get on your print?
You for sure want to wipe the screen. I have never had any adhesion issues, but its still a good idea, when you mist lightley during production its not needed.
Hey bro thanks for the info. Had a question. In the flattening screen what substance are you using to pass the squeegee , ink?
We tape out a screen with split tape on the face and well of a screen and pour some curable reducer on top. Push or pull the reducer as if it were ink.
Awesome Tip! What brand / type of silicon spray are you using?
It is Comie 610
Thanks man and I really appreciate your tips & videos! Stoked to finally have an industry source that is no bullshit and just real about the #printlife! keep it up man
Hey brother so I’ve been printing for a few months now I’m not doing too bad I feel like I’m ok I’ve figured everything out with all the info I get from your vids! Thanks btw. But I’ve only been doing one color prints I was nervous about doing multi color but I finally got myself together to print multi color and I fucked up because I didn’t think about lining up designs when I burned my screens so when I went to line up my registrations they were completely off. So my question is how do you line up your designs on your screens before you burn them? Please help me lol
You still do this with your prints?
Question. What's a good off contact height when printing white on a black shirt
I good reference is about the height of a quarter. Some say 1/8 of an inch or so.
If it to high will it cause fibrillation aswell
So basically just flash after every print?
what did you put on flatten screen
What flash dryer is that? and you said it has heat control?
Gabriel Lopez ...looks like vastex
It is a Vastex. They are pretty good for the price.
Flattening screen.. do you just expose a screen and use it to flatten ...
correct sir
thanks for that tip
What's the average hourly wager for a
Silk screen printer?
Same process as a roller after the flash on an Automatic
Correct good sir.
Exactly
Why is the screen printing only part of the graphic & the other half is not solider? And when we try to do it again the screen is caked up underneath the screen & sticks to the shirt.
If i used waterbased ink is this issue will appear, because i believe my problem is from the t-shirt.
Thank you
Does anyone know if they sell equipment? I am looking to buy another silk screen press machine today.
Are those aluminum pallets?
yea they are.
newb here. is this only for white ink? if so why?
Yea just to smooth it out.
Quick question, would it be a good idea to use a fan to blow on the pallet to cool it down before printing your next color.
For sure. I pretty much always have a fan on my pallets.
Ok, i have a 4 station press with my flash positioned straight across from me so it wont be so hot on me. Will a fan with a 1 cooling station be enough, or should i bite the bullet on the heat and and have a 2 cooling station.
The more space you can create from the flash the better. I have seized so many screen because I'm not paying attention and do a print directly after a flash when the pallet is still hot.
What do you mean when you say “seized screen”?
@@rudyjrivera basically, cured the ink in the screen so it wont clear properly.. rendering the screen useless...
Where is that 1/8 inch off contact thing that people usually talk about. Will off contact make any real difference in the print? Also Thanks for the tutorial.
KaviArasu N S depends on the ink thickness, and screen tension.
Hi, I am using plastisol ink and this is what happening with my prints ( prnt.sc/p0f2hl ) even if I do a single stroke .. Please let me know what is this called and how to prevent this? Please see the attached images if you don't mind. Thank you very much.
If you’re flashing for 15 seconds you are likely over-flashing. Any color on top of over-flashed ink will not adhere. Be careful. I just don’t see the need to use that much heat to flash. Try flattening without using too much flash.
my friend !
Cam, so the flattening screen has emulsion on it? looks like theres something on top of the print side
yea it's just reducer to lubricate the squeegee.
want that tshirt dude =)
What is a flattening screen? Is it a screen with the image on it but no ink?? I'm having this fibrillation problem often.
its a completely blank screen, only with emulsion and a little ink to help the squeegee move along.
What's on the flat screen ? Is that ink?
He mentions it's reducer so the squeegee can slide. it's in another Reply below.
I put a fan on one of my platinum and cools it down
❤
The Print Life Could you show me / everybody an actual comparison please..
Thank you
Heat press items....it's work smarter not harder
Anybody here
Sure am, whats up duder???
The Print Life hi sorry , i would like to thank you first for your videos,
I need help with fibrillation, i do have fibrillation issue my black Tess, i want to try this method using flat screen, what you put on the screen instead of ink?
you can use what ever you want a little ink, curable reducer, base, what ever, you just need to lubricate the squeegee.
What was the substance on the flattening screen?
i believe whatever regular emulsion you use, simply expose it to harden and donezo