hello !! i just got a ct200, trail 90... it is a 1966 that was last licensed in 1975.. ~ 3000 miles on the clock.. turns over and has pretty good compression, (~100 psi cold)..not bad to look @ either.. i have not really got into it yet as still doing a assessment of what lurks ahead and waiting for a battery ad appropriate charger..i could have not asked for a video that fits my needs any closer than this one does ... great job on video, sound is top notch and was groovin on the music... thank you ..ttfn.. brysoglen
They came from the factory that way. Three open hex nuts and one acorn nut with a copper washer. The stud with the acorn nut has an oil passage around it, if it were a normal nut it would weep through the threads.
I order the battery , and can't wait to test it , meanwhile I took out the engine to do the paint and other restoration, How do you bench test the engine with the battery? I was using a jumper cable from Black wire from engine to secondary coil and also grounding it to engine when I I get the battery how to wire it at the bench so I can test before I put back the engine to the bike I have 5 wire is coming out of the engine black is the ignition yellow is for the lights wire with secondary color is the ground is the red wire for the battery connection and what is white another ground ?
You do not want to ground the black wire to the engine. The black wire goes from the points to the black wire on the coil. The red wire on the coil goes to the positive battery terminal. This is your switched ignition power. Disconnect and ground to kill the engine. The negative battery terminal should be attached to the engine case. These connections are all that should be needed to bench test the engine.
Hi Nick, Since you are way more knowledgeable then me quick question . I have 62 Trail 55 and 65 Trail 90 and both sitting cause I can't get a spark, on Trail 90 since it has many coils by the flywheels and if they are fine when I turned the crank shouldn't I get a "test light" turn on from the black or the yellow wires even nothing else is connected like Condenser and points? Thanks
Do you have a fresh battery installed? You won't get spark without one. As far as the test lighg goes, no you won't get any sort of light without the points. What is your test light connected to?
Hi Nick, Honda project is still on hold but I have another project could use guidance My 70 vespa sprint, cutter pin;s loop end holding the cylinder head to piston arm broke off chew up the piston head and the top ring, after 3 month trying to find the head finally put the top half back to gather only to find out woodruff key is also chewed up, changed that too but now I only get loud backfire but not starting at all. I have very good and bright spark on the spark plug , while kicksrtarting with timing light I see the firing happens about 19-20 ATDC ( should be 22 but I should still get running In that range ) new points . What else needs to be checked or adjust ?
Did the bike run before cylinder head damage occured? If you have spark and it is happening at about the right time, I would think seals might be an issue, espescially if they are original or are damaged.
Test light was connected to ground on the engine and lead is on the black wire < I thought these were magneto and generates the 6 V coils spinning with in the magnets and battery is only for the auxiliary stuff like lights and horn
The CT90 definitely needs a battery for spark. I'm almost positive the Trail 55 is the same way. It wasn't until the CT110 that they could run without a battery.
hello !! i just got a ct200, trail 90... it is a 1966 that was last licensed in 1975.. ~ 3000 miles on the clock.. turns over and has pretty good compression, (~100 psi cold)..not bad to look @ either.. i have not really got into it yet as still doing a assessment of what lurks ahead and waiting for a battery ad appropriate charger..i could have not asked for a video that fits my needs any closer than this one does ... great job on video, sound is top notch and was groovin on the music... thank you ..ttfn.. brysoglen
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your CT!
I dont think ive seen one of these bikes with matching head bolts. Regardless, good work.
They came from the factory that way. Three open hex nuts and one acorn nut with a copper washer. The stud with the acorn nut has an oil passage around it, if it were a normal nut it would weep through the threads.
@@NickMakesBreaksStuff well im going to revert that on my bike. Thanks for the info
Did you do a compression test at first ? And if so what was it at ?
Thanks for the video
I order the battery , and can't wait to test it , meanwhile I took out the engine to do the paint and other restoration, How do you bench test the engine with the battery? I was using a jumper cable from Black wire from engine to secondary coil and also grounding it to engine when I I get the battery how to wire it at the bench so I can test before I put back the engine to the bike I have 5 wire is coming out of the engine
black is the ignition yellow is for the lights wire with secondary color is the ground is the red wire for the battery connection and what is white another ground ?
You do not want to ground the black wire to the engine. The black wire goes from the points to the black wire on the coil. The red wire on the coil goes to the positive battery terminal. This is your switched ignition power. Disconnect and ground to kill the engine. The negative battery terminal should be attached to the engine case.
These connections are all that should be needed to bench test the engine.
Excellent video, why didn’t you measure the bore taper and piston?
I did some bore and piston measurements, which is shown a little in the previous video here: th-cam.com/video/AQCrPsWqSm4/w-d-xo.html
I felt that feeling when the valve spring keeper decided it needed a walk about. Great video
Hi Nick,
Since you are way more knowledgeable then me quick question . I have 62 Trail 55 and 65 Trail 90 and both sitting cause I can't get a spark, on Trail 90 since it has many coils by the flywheels and if they are fine when I turned the crank shouldn't I get a "test light" turn on from the black or the yellow wires even nothing else is connected like Condenser and points?
Thanks
Do you have a fresh battery installed? You won't get spark without one. As far as the test lighg goes, no you won't get any sort of light without the points. What is your test light connected to?
Good video. Good detail. Great job.
I had one of those pushrod bikes. ran it until I went into the service, parked it at my grandmothers and a cousin took a sledgehammer to it.
Hi Nick, Honda project is still on hold but I have another project could use guidance My 70 vespa sprint, cutter pin;s loop end holding the cylinder head to piston arm broke off chew up the piston head and the top ring, after 3 month trying to find the head finally put the top half back to gather only to find out woodruff key is also chewed up, changed that too but now I only get loud backfire but not starting at all. I have very good and bright spark on the spark plug , while kicksrtarting with timing light I see the firing happens about 19-20 ATDC ( should be 22 but I should still get running In that range ) new points .
What else needs to be checked or adjust ?
Did the bike run before cylinder head damage occured? If you have spark and it is happening at about the right time, I would think seals might be an issue, espescially if they are original or are damaged.
Valve Gap ??
Where do you source your parts?
Most of my CT parts come from ebay or DrATV.com
Test light was connected to ground on the engine and lead is on the black wire < I thought these were magneto and generates the 6 V coils spinning with in the magnets and battery is only for the auxiliary stuff like lights and horn
The CT90 definitely needs a battery for spark. I'm almost positive the Trail 55 is the same way. It wasn't until the CT110 that they could run without a battery.