How to: Cut trees that lean hard! A few techniques to do it safer: Tips and tricks
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- This skill is essential for safe and efficient removals, but as always. Practice low and slow with someone present to give clear instruction. There are lots of ways to get hurt cutting heavily leaning spars.
Josiah, the Tree_Strider is a contract climber and tree climbing Instructor focused on training the next generation of climbers, arborists and other tree workers in safer, more efficient work practices.
What is a skill or technique you would like explained? Let me know in the comments.
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I've gotta say the way you explain yourself is very professional. There are so many other TH-cam tree guys who have just recently started tree work who are putting out tips and tricks vids that have no reason to be trying to teach anyone anything. Thanks for the time, and knowledge you share with all of us. Stay safe out there.
I loved the way you gave us an explanatory sidebar regarding how the bar can be trapped in the falling segment and yank you off your stance.
Another great video!!! Never heard of this exact cut but it is very similar to a “Coos Bay” cut when falling HEAVY learners. Your two cuts are off vertical but Coos Bay are vertical, just like your floor joist example. Thank you!
Oh cool, I’ll have to look that up I haven’t heard of the “Coos Bay” cut
Coos Bay, that's where Larry Haun used to live. R.I.P Larry, a legend, 👍💪🔨🇺🇲🇮🇪
Thanks that was very helpful I appreciate the knowledge you have and willing to share!
I needed this video yesterday lol
It’s the video I wish I had years ago ! It took way too long to figure this out
GREAT video.
Thank you .
You’re welcome!
Best one I've seen of yours yet.
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Sharp chain, do you round file or chisel bit?
Both, but it depends on the situation
Little by little. All my doubt are being cleared away with every video 😊
If the top cut backwards to the bottom cut, the chain saw will be held on the overlap position instead of drop suddenly with the dropping log , is that correct? Thx
Really appreciate what you're doing it's more helpful than you know. I try to draw from all you tree guys, great teachers. I was just curious, on the log you are straddling, in this demonstration, if you had no other tie in point, and the branch went out a ways. What's your procedure for advancing down it, when it's at that low of an angle?
Depends on lots of factors. It’s virtually never that I don’t have some kind of secondary attachment.
@@Stridertrees I guess I meant that you didn't have a secondary tie in point that was higher, so you couldn't really triangulate for stabilization. Is it acceptable to be Lanyard'd in and just scootch out?
@@ravenshield7823if that’s your only option, then it can be made “safe” enough, but there’s no getting around it being awkward. You’d need to have a choking backup tie trailing behind the lanyard as well for a backup.
@@Stridertrees Right, ok, totally understood. I'm not trying to waste your time, I have a scenario where what I am asking is what I am trying to work out a plan for. The very large branch does increase back into a climbing angle, but I need to get past a section I'd rather not limb walk, being so new to the field. I've got more study time than actual experience time in climbing but am making strides. Confidence in my setup, and gear is really something that needs application to become trusted counterpart. And obviously not getting in too deep, but you need those challenges to grow. So I'm going lol. Thanks for your thoughts on the situation.
How do you like that Milwaukee?
Have you ever tried a double undercut using the same method that you are using but just cut to your furthest undercut out towards the tips of each piece being cut. I use this any I know I can't undercut deep enough and I wouldn't be able to get through piece fastest enough to make it land flat. This is the situation that I use this cut in and it never has failed me.
I'm having trouble visualizing what you're describing but it sounds pretty interesting. Would you make a video on it?
In my experience I’ve not had a saw catch by cutting behind the initial kerf cut! 71 and still climbing.
Cutting behind, you mean Cutting in front of your original cut? If Cutting behind Aka closer to the tree for your top cut. It can't get stuck because it's on the stationary side. Vs in front of, u are Cutting on the moving limb. Which unless you can get the saw out as it starts to pop u might be ok. However, pulling the saw out too soon. Is when it's got more potential to barber chair, or not break away cleanly. And causing it to swing down. Vs dropping flat!
I'm not questioning your knowledge, ijs. By the way you wrote your comment. You made it sound like you don't get ur saw stuck because u cut behind your first cut. Which makes me think you misspoke on behind vs in front of. Or I'm not understanding what you mean. Because if u cut behind your bottom cut on top. That's leaving a lip for the tree branch to catch on. Causing it to swing a tad bit. If it's got a slight angle to the lead, it won't swing much. But if it's at a 90 angle, it's got more potential to swing on the lip. Especially if it's more than ¾ of an inch. I personally like Cutting the sides of the branch just in past the cambium layer. To eliminate any hinging or tearing that may grab your lanyard and or give you a not ideal outcome.
But props to ya for still Cutting trees especially if u still climb! That's insane bro!
@@richardbadish6990 OK let me see if I can explain this. I cut the bottom curf about a third of the way through the branch , If you were to draw a line straight up, I would be cutting a half inch (behind it )towards the tree so it drops down into the bottom curf as I’m cutting and pops, I hope that better explains it.
👍