Okay, so to make a loooooong story short, use anti sieze compound on the gas block bolts. Jeeez!! Talk about long winded! He must be related to T Walz.
I’ve tried a couple of different hand guards on my Mini 30, including one that similar to the one you showed in the video. I didn’t like it because it barely had any ventilation for the barrel. I now have an aftermarket guard and a separate gas system that adjustable, and I’m happy with it. But those bolts have to be tightened evenly using a torque wrench. I don’t know if that’s part of your issue, but I learned to be more careful about aftermarket parts too.
Had one on my mini 14 tactical and the rifle eventually wouldn’t shoot properly ( FTE) every 3rd round . Don’t know if it was the rail affecting gas block mechanism or the muzzle break but Ruger eventually sent me a whole new rifle and I have yet to put any pictunny rail or new muzzle break . Just put a new aftermarket aluminum hand guard that just sits there like the original but instead metal . I haven’t had any malfunctions
AWESOME INFO!!! Thanks for taking time to share this... The fact that you did speaks volumes IMO because this will Probably not be a "High Volume" video monetarily 4 you but I REALLY APPRECIATE it!!! That's called "GUN COMMUNITY INTEGRITY" PEOPLE ... and COFFEE PEDDLERS
Help me understand… how is it that the sheared screw/bolt is stuck in the hole of the Ameega handguard? I have both Ultimak and Samson Mfg railed handguards and I don’t recall that their top holes for their screws/bolts are threaded. I do know that the gas block holes are threaded.
on the contrary of using anti-seize, they recommed you use thread locker! (at least Ultimak does) I get the idea; but, this is definitely something I worry about.
Seems like many people don't know this but Blue thread locker does keep the bolt tight but also keeps the bolt from seizing up completely so that it can be removed. Red thread locker is more for a permanent bolt that you do not ever intend to remove. I've never had a bolt completely seize up when I've used Blue thread lock. I would use the blue hi-temp thread locker in this case.
@@ranchmanager9126 i bought some blue but ended up not using it after this. how necessary do you think some type of thread locker is? the factory screws weren't thread locked. (that wasn't a rhetorical question, I'm fairly new to this)
Okay, so to make a loooooong story short, use anti sieze compound on the gas block bolts. Jeeez!! Talk about long winded! He must be related to T Walz.
Thanks for the info. Was looking for one for my mini 14 and mini 30. Like your channel.
I’ve tried a couple of different hand guards on my Mini 30, including one that similar to the one you showed in the video. I didn’t like it because it barely had any ventilation for the barrel. I now have an aftermarket guard and a separate gas system that adjustable, and I’m happy with it. But those bolts have to be tightened evenly using a torque wrench. I don’t know if that’s part of your issue, but I learned to be more careful about aftermarket parts too.
Had one on my mini 14 tactical and the rifle eventually wouldn’t shoot properly ( FTE) every 3rd round . Don’t know if it was the rail affecting gas block mechanism or the muzzle break but Ruger eventually sent me a whole new rifle and I have yet to put any pictunny rail or new muzzle break . Just put a new aftermarket aluminum hand guard that just sits there like the original but instead metal . I haven’t had any malfunctions
AWESOME INFO!!!
Thanks for taking time to share this... The fact that you did speaks volumes IMO because this will Probably not be a "High Volume" video monetarily 4 you but I REALLY APPRECIATE it!!!
That's called "GUN COMMUNITY INTEGRITY" PEOPLE ... and COFFEE PEDDLERS
Thanks for the info!
Permatex makes 4 gram, single-use, packets of their hi-temp antiseize. Great stuff, I use it all the time.
HUGH pressure at that place on barrel port. The use of a thread compound which may allow loosening of retaining bolts would not be recommended.
Help me understand… how is it that the sheared screw/bolt is stuck in the hole of the Ameega handguard? I have both Ultimak and Samson Mfg railed handguards and I don’t recall that their top holes for their screws/bolts are threaded. I do know that the gas block holes are threaded.
i have the UltiMak. it's definitely threaded. i almost had a heart attack because i thought i fouled the threads.
on the contrary of using anti-seize, they recommed you use thread locker! (at least Ultimak does)
I get the idea; but, this is definitely something I worry about.
Seems like many people don't know this but Blue thread locker does keep the bolt tight but also keeps the bolt from seizing up completely so that it can be removed. Red thread locker is more for a permanent bolt that you do not ever intend to remove. I've never had a bolt completely seize up when I've used Blue thread lock. I would use the blue hi-temp thread locker in this case.
@@ranchmanager9126
i bought some blue but ended up not using it after this. how necessary do you think some type of thread locker is? the factory screws weren't thread locked.
(that wasn't a rhetorical question, I'm fairly new to this)
I use Samson Hannibal Rails on my Mini 14 with no problems.
EDM.
Hmmmm....