Let me know your thoughts on these tests, and what levers you use. If you want to check any of the options I tested, links are in the description, or debate me over on the discord server: www.patreon.com/spitescorner
I had one of the earlier RE 650GT's. They didn't (at the time) come with ANY adjustment on the levers, so I got the adjustable ones from Hitchcocks. Unsure who actually manufactures them. One of the best improvements I made to it, aside from replacing the tyres with better ones.
Great job on the weight loss, dude! That’s no easy thing to do, and while not the focus of the video, that’s a damn impressive change. Great video too!
@spitescorner any good suggestions that might help me out as well. I just need to lose a out 35lbs but still even thay has been extremely hard for me to do b
@@MarkIrwin02 exercise within your ability, at least half an hour every day, weights and cardio (alternate them) BUT make sure you eat less calories than you burn. Stay hydrated and get decent sleep. Make it managable and fun or you won't stick at it. Enjoy steady progress.
At the end of the day it doesn't really matter if aftermarket levers are better or not. People just want to customize their bike to their liking. Id say the majority of people buy aftermarket levers purely for aesthetics
@@-Eternal-Damnation- whether, my Harley Street Bob, KTM 450EXC or Honda XR150L it is about looking cool. I am a cruiser type. Not into speed (my drag racing wife is) so I set my bikes up for comfort and style.
Yes, after brainstorming one day about how to lighten my bikes, I came to the conclusion that he best way is for me to lose weight and it's transferable across all my bikes very easily.
Here is a reason for shorty’s: Off road with hand guards installed. Example: When I first got my DRZ400s and put on some Acerbis hand guards the stock levers would get jammed up with the guards almost every time I laid the bike down (off road as you know this is a given). The stock levers were too long for when those hand guards bent in a little, so I replaced it with some adjustable shorty’s from Amazon (forgot the brand name) and have not had an issue since.
This. So much this. My stock levers are adjustable but the length has them getting mighty close to my handguards and off road I keep one finger one each lever room for more then 2 fingers is just squishing my fingers in some cases and actually preventing me from getting full movement out of them without rearranging my fingers. The fact that the clutch needs to come all the way in for my starter to run is just insult to injury.
@@sorenmelchior Same here with me the stock levers were too long it wouldn't not fit inside the hand guards. I would imagine that's what most people change it for not for weight savings like he made in the video 😒🙄
Fitting the Brembo front brake master cylinder and Brembo disc rotors,together with Venhill braided brake lines on my GSXR 1000 K2 made an enormous difference in braking performance.
For me it's all about the feel. When you commute daily & ride on the weekend bad feeling levers get real old real fast. I ran stock levers for 18 years on my Ninja 650 because they were adjustable for reach on both sides & felt good. When I got my Yamaha Scorpio I wasted a bunch of money on aftermarket levers to get adjustability, but none of them had the right feel & I went back to the scrap metal that Yamaha calls factory levers. My KTM Duke, on the other hand, got a shiny new set of aftermarket levers & I haven't looked back. Yes, they're orange, but I use them because the feel is much better than the stock levers & not for the looks. Well, a little for the looks. Aprilia Shiver - factory stock levers. Suzuki Bandit - aftermarket levers. It's all about the right tool for the job. I just wish you could try out levers, like you can try on a helmet, before you make a purchase. It'd save a lot of people a lot of money.
I think being able to try levers would be awesome. They're so easy to put on a bike and I think it would allow people to see for themselves if it actually makes a difference. For me, they don't, outside of adjustability. Aftermarket levers tend to feel a lot more vague.
@@spitescornerme personally, I need them. I'm short at 5'2 and I'm a woman, so my hands are small and it's usually difficult to reach the stock levers. I swapped my Triumph Trident's levers for Rizoma adjustables (length and span), set them to the shorty length, set the span as close to the handles as possible, and haven't looked back. It's way easier to reach and pull the levers in for me now! Plus since they're shorties, they didn't break when I dropped the bike last year 😅
You might laugh at my 2oz of weight savings, but that's also why I don't wear gear! Up to like 5lbs 2oz! But in all seriousness. I have the PSG levers and I just like the way the shorties look. Same with my exhaust. I don't say "loud pipes save lives." I say, "Call a doctor, cause my bike looks and sounds sick!"
If you have ever broke a lever 5 miles away from any road because you kept your factory levers instead of upgrading to good break away lever you wouldn't be saying they are a waste of money.
A shorty lever has ergonomics designed to be pulled differently to stock levers. Claiming its a lighter pulls is a very close minded and simply biased answer because you install shorty levers because you like those ergonomics, and if you were to 2 finger pull a stock lever, you would apply the force pretty much at the same distance away from the pivit point, despite the lever being longer, simply because of ergonomics. Long levers are long because they are designed with the idea that many people use all fingers to pull the lever. Shorty levers are for people who use less fingers and the ergonomics are more desirable towards those people compared to stock, longer levers. Therefore, shorty levers are incredibly useful from an ergonomic standpoint for 1-2 finger pull. Looks are also something very important to some people, and that alone is an important point to consider since we would be stupid to argue against the power of fashion. If its in the market its because there is a market for it, if its been in the market for a while is because its highly desirable.
That's a great point you made, about using two fingers and how the pivot point is the same, whether on a foot long stock (plus or minus an inch) or a shorty. My F4i came with blue cheapo Amazon adjustable levers and I have to say I quite like the looks and don't have much of an issue with its use, although I find the adjustability totally useless. And lets face it: that stock F4i clutch lever is one ugly motherf$#@r of a lever. Saddest lever I've seen, looks like it was designed in the 1950s. Hell, for the $30 bux they cost I may get a pair for my new GSXR600.
@@mxracinguy5993 Absolutely! For what actually is a very functional and not simple to manufacture item, that price is a steal. Might consider getting some for my RC36, but gotta upgrade the rest of the braking system before choosing the final levers, I dont like how squishy they feel and the stock suspension is awfully soft too, so gotta get some proper adjustable cartridges in there aswell. Might just end adapting a different front end alltogether since cartridges are freaking expensive, but already bought some clipon handlebars and the diameter wont fit with different forks. Maybe I shouldnt overcomplicate things and simply installing stiffer springs and testing different fork oil weights will do.
The main reason I swapped my levers on my last bike was (a) I like short levers because I only use two fingers and it's just comfier for me that way and (b) I thought having folding levers might save them if I dropped the bike again. Shorter levers were comfier for me, so that part checks out. The fold-away levers didn't fold away when the bike went down, though. However, the ends were replaceable so that was way cheaper than new stock or after market levers. Which probably put me about even with just buying some used ones off eBay every time... Also, a heavier pull might be nice on some bikes. One of the complaints I've heard about the new CBR605R is the clutch is really light and short levers with a harder pull might help that. But beyond those notable exceptions? Yeah 100% agree with everything else you said.
Great vid! When my better half dropped my bike in a parking lot, I had to replace my levers with a $40/pair Amazon (MZS Touring) since the OEMs ($25 each) were out-of-stock. While I liked the adjustability, the color went from bright red to pale green, which implies they were made with inferior material and/or processes. Nice to see there are better options out there.
the RCS really is the best use of funds to improve braking. And for anyone looking into track days, you don't want a short brake lever. Adjusting hand grip depending on BP and lean angle, you need the full length of the lever, even if only using one or two fingers during braking.
When I broke my clutch lever I replaced both with (full length 😂) ASV levers because of their spring-back design. They might not be indestructible, but less destructable is a win for me.
Pazzo levers on my 2005 Yamaha R6. Got them with the bike but have been super happy with them. Bike came with a Brembo radial master cylinder from the factory. Upgraded the factory pads and performance has been good enough for me for both aggressive street riding as well as intermediate track day pace at my local track.
My RC-51 has a Brembo RCS 19 with Vesrah RJL pads, braided lines. 160 mph (in Mexico) will lift the rear tire seeing a deer running across the road in front. Feel is astounding! Wouldn't use anything else. Have the sane setup on my Tuono as well, sure the stock master on the 21 Ape is good, but you know. Bling!
Brembo Corsa Costa and stainless steel brake lines are single handedly the best CONFIDENCE INSPIRING upgrade I made on my bike. It gave me confidence in trusting my brakes and to brake harder going into corners. With the old master cylinder and rubber lines it would give me a different feeling 3 out of 5 times on the exact same turn which made trusting my brakes impossible. It was insane what $380 worth of parts matched with the stock Brembo calipers made and really confused me on why this didn't come like this from the factory!
19mm master cylinder is a lot bigger than what the stock system was designed to use. You are losing hydraulic leverage by going to a bigger master cylinder and hence your initial bite is softer. Racers upgrade their brakes in all sorts of ways, running larger discs, more aggressive pads, etc, and a larger master cylinder is a way to reign in the bitiness and gain back some modulation of such a system. The better solution would be to use RCS 17 or 18, close to what the original master cylinder was, but with radial master cylinder because they tend to give you more feel than the stock axial master cylinder.
Thanks Spike, appreciate ur review. I’m a fan of performance upgrade and did the brimbo brake lever and master cylinder because my stock cylinder was allowing heat to escape up the line to the brake cylinder. Yep, it engaged my front brake while on the track and caused a spill in the grass.
As an old school dirtbike rider in the days before barkbusters where invented. Shorty levers where the way to go to not get them caught on trees in the woods. They also didn't break every time the bike got dropped. So basically I've ridden all my life using 2 fingers on my levers. Every bike I've owned one of the first modifications is putting shorty levers on. I personally prefer the feel of the ASV's on my Honda CB1000r and I'm happy with them (plus they look cool to) but to each his own. People love to customize their bikes and levers are just another way of doing that. It's not really about the money
I fucking love my ASV shorties 🤣That's mostly because they have so much adjustability on the clutch. I two finger my clutch and it's nice to have the clutch lever a bit further out so it's fully engaged when pressed against my fingers. I also really appreciate the extra horsepower since they are red.
Depending on the bike, some stock clutch/brake levers extend beyond the actual bars themselves, meaning accidentally dropping the bike means they could be the first thing that comes in contact with the ground, and make them snap clean off (trust me, I know). Aftermarket, shorter levers can be a solution to this.
My buddy is a race engineer with a 4 axis CNC machine in his garage (among many other things). His opinion is that these amazon levers aren't bad and that for the price they're not even worth trying manufacture his own. Edit: if my levers aren't broken I'm not replacing them. If they are broken I'm shopping Amazon.
There are chinese made levers that are good quality. The issue is that most people are not able to identify the truly crap ones from the quality ones and second the people having issues usually fit them poorly by over-tightening them or under-tightening them, not lubing them etc. Then they complain on the internet and everyone tells them to buy ASV's and that all chinese levers are crap which is not true.
Good to see Spite continuing to grow on TH-cam. I bought aftermarket levers a few months ago so I had to click. I don't even use the adjustability. I just like the shorties and the color
I learned this lesson. Your money is better spent on a new brake master cylinder. I currently own a brembo rcs19, but I can also highly suggest an Accosato 19x18; it's just as good.
Ok Spite. You redeemed yourself. My tiny baby hands need the adjustable levers. I run stock levers on my Triumph and I run CRG levers on my R3 with woodcraft clip ons. The r3 is for street and occasional track day.
Well done, Spite! Loved this video style. You figured out the one and really only good reason to get them. Adjustability, particularly for a bike without it. If you drop and break the stock ones, adjustable cnc’d ones are nicer. Otherwise I’d just stick with the oems. One disagreement though, the stocks are not what the manufacturer thinks is the best for your bike. They’re what they think is the cheapest way to include levers. That’s why they are cheaply cast instead of cnc’d, and the same bare aluminum color for every model, despite not matching any bike. Choice is the spice of life though. Thanks for returning to this. Didn’t realize it was such a hotly debated issue
I do want a nice clutch lever to match my Brembo radial master though. Right now she looks a bit odd wearing Brembo black on the right and Honda OEM aluminium on the left.
Good on you dropping some weight bud. What would really bug me lever wise would be the mis match of the brembo for the brake and stock for the clutch. Do they do a matching hydraulic clutch master?
It is crazy to think that the difference in the cost of levers or a new clutch is about $20. For some reason I didn’t consider that. I do all of my own work, so yeah, glad you mentioned it.
I don't care for the shorty levers either but it's completely ridiculous to say it's a waste of money to change levers. They're important controls on your motorcycle. Adjustability and comfort are extremely important to most people. I had pain in my clutch hand and fingers. Contour of a new lever and full adjustability fixed the issue. Obviously it's not necessary if you're getting them just for an aesthetic reason. But a good set can greatly improve comfort and make your ride more enjoyable.
I put shorty, two finger pull, levers on my GSA and I wouldn't have it any other way. The key is to buy quality. I want to be able to maintain grip while throwing that bike down a trail so hard it's bucking under me and still operate the brake and clutch. But, I run OEM levers on everything else I own because they are fine for street and even track riding. You can lighten the pull weight with other mods to compensate for the lack of leverage. Some levers have a built in different fulcrums that can change the feel. The shorties I have don't feel any stiffer because they where designed to application very well. Clutch and master cylinder mods, even swaping out different brake lines and cables can make a big difference on how a lever feels. Famously there is a lever and cable swap for HDs that lighten the clutch by as much as half.
You could argue that the distance from pivot point to typical finger/pull point doesn’t change based on lever length…. Nobody is holding the tip of a lever on purpose. Although objectively it seems relevant it really doesn’t favor one way or another in my opinion.
I tend to grab the levers at the end, or closer to it, because I keep my hands at the very ends of the bars. That's my preferred spot, but the CBR is tough since the clip ons are short.
@@spitescorner when I watch you ride, you grab the clutch with four fingers. That's not pulling the clutch at the end of the lever unless you clutch with your pinky and the other fingers are just along for the ride.
Valid points. I think it depends on the bike and the needs/wants of the rider. I kept my brake lever stock, as I saw no reason to change it. However, I swapped out my clutch lever for a Zeta ultralight shorty lever. The pull is more firm, but still light, and very adjustable tension. The stock clutch lever was stupidly light, but it'll be fine kept as a back-up.
Also remember, depending on your brake caliper piston size, don’t go too big of a master cylinder, you won’t have the ability to feel the brake, it will make it more wooden feel because of a little movement would just push the caliper piston too much. Rcs17 would fit for 32mm and below caliper piston size.
I had the asv shorty on my mt09. the best part about them is the adjustability. stock clutch lever has no adjustments, asv, even the short one, with adjustability, feels a whole lot better than stock. even if it is heavier to pull. I also have rcs Corsa corta on my V4S. the best part about them is the you get more "resolution" with the pull and even more adjustability.
I put aftermarket levers on my track bike… they were included with the fiberglass track fairings that I purchased. There’s only one source for cbr250r fiberglass track fairings and their brand of levers is MGP. My track CBR250R was the ABS version, so I disconnected and removed the ABS pump and replaced the lines with braided stainless non-ABS lines. The levers were a freebie that gets the adjustment closer.
Adjustability... If you don't have factory adjustable levers. It's nice to adjust the lever to the exact point where your fingers bend. It's all about comfort... I still like ASV. I never looked at swapping a lever for performance. that being said I'm using the stock triumph levers that are both adjustable. If I end up breaking them for whatever reason I'll try to get factory ones to replace them if not I'll get some ASVs.🤣
Always had long crg rc2 on all my bikes. Always wanted shortys. Finally got shortys. Instant regret fz09 clutch pull vs zx10r clutch pull has a significant difference especially with a shorter lever
I bought 1 set including the brake master and the hydraulic clutch master. I changed it because I upgraded from a cable clutch to a hydraulic clutch. And never adjusted it, just kept it at 6. And the thing about it not being easily broken is true.
One thing not mentioned here that I have found particularly useful about shorty levers is they give you options in tuning mastercylinder bore size when using a 2 finger grip, which I consider best for street use. For instance my stock 2014 Honda Valkyrie had an INCREDIBLY hard brake lever to pull, I think Honda actually did it for those cruiser riders with an archaic mentality about ham fisting front brakes less chance to tuck their front. The bike came with non adjustable levers and a 5/8" bore brake master cylinder. Swapping the brake master cylinder to a used 1/2" OEM unit from another Honda cruiser model reduced the lever effort to about 65% of stock, but increased the lever pull distance to about 155% of stock, which meant the brake lever hit my 2 fingers on the grip before full travel. Swapped to a set of ebay shorty levers and the short lever missed my 2 grip fingers and everything worked perfectly, I even swapped the clutch mastercylinder from a 14mm to a matching 1/2" for less effort and greater featherability. I think the two 1/2" used OEM Honda mastercylinders off ebay cost me around $20 each and the shorty ebay levers were about $10. $50 and I completely transformed my front brakes to work the way I wanted them to. So for cosmetics at the cost of function? Absolutely not, if you are swapping the levers for a functional reason? Go for it.
@@spitescornerNaw, the lever doesn't change the MC bore size, but shorty levers give you more lever travel potential, as the end slides between your fingers rather than hitting your ring finger and pinky on the throttle like full length levers, allowing you to swap the MC for a smaller bore size one, which gives you more travel and less effort. This is not something every bike needs by ANY means, but a handy thing to have in your tuning toolbox when needed.
I really like your videos. It's a different approach from other people. As far as the lever's, I use cheap Amazon! If they break I've got a spare! I can buy 4 sets for the cost of one asv lever!
I purchased aftermarket levers for a bike that had levers broken at the break notch. Factory adjustable were $85 or $90 each at the time, ASV were $110. I did stock length on the clutch and shorty on the brake. In my eyes this was a two birds one stone situation. Did a repair and improved the look of the bike.
My braking system is stock Brembo but I do have evotech 'folding' levers cos I love the feel and look and my brakes are very powerful as I only need two finger braking from high speed to low on track. My bike is 1 2017 Aprilia RSV4-RF
My little ninja 300 has non adjustable stock levers and someone sat on my bike while I was at work and dropped it. I like the idea of some decent levers but $300 CAN for levers on a bike I'll probably part ways with in a couple years is a bit too rich for my blood so I'll probably go with the cheapy Amazon's but I sure do appreciate the video, was super helpful!
I really think we need to accept thay very few bike mods are actually necessities. The only thing I "had" to do to my bike was swap the mirrors for bar ends, and that was only because my shoulders are too wide to give me a good view of the road with the stock ones. An exhaust or a KN air filter are nice conveniences, but i think, especially new riders should learn their bike stock before messing with it much.
For the most part, unless I have a very specific modification in mind I’ll always try to buy OEM pieces, and this includes the levers. As a broke boi in this economy, I always keep in mind that my bike expenses need to improve something about the bike. To that end my GSX-S 750 only has luggage, frame sliders, a touring windscreen, a throttle lock, sport touring tires, and steel braided lines. My WR250R is also essentially OEM, except for hand guards, bar risers, a bigger rear sprocket, tires, and iridium spark plugs. All these mods are purpose-driven and enhance function, and I had the benefit of choosing aesthetics on them. Aftermarket levers aren’t really my thing because they don’t really fit into my mod philosophy. However, this is subject to change as I acquire more disposable income.
I buy fancy aftermarket levers because I can make the color match my bike and being CNC'd they just feel better to grip, even through gloves. Stock levers work fine most of the time but levers can change the look of a bike and it's my hobby, I want my hobby to look cool.
Regarding your pull force measurement: when a rider uses the one or two finger method to engage their clutch, they are not pulling at the end of the ball on a standard length lever (where you measured). The rider’s fingers are usually placed about mid point of the lever or, about the end of a shorty lever.
That's true, but that increases the amount of pull force required not lessens it. The math is somewhere around 29lbs to pull my clutch on the CBR with a 3.5 inch lever. I also hold the levers farther out than most people.
@@markhingst5368that is a good arquement against some one like me who wants 2 finger purchase. I'll try that out but most bars won't have that kinda room to move inboard even if your ok with drilling new holes for the locating dowel pin of the perch.
@@spitescorner You might want to think about that again. Stronger fingers are index and middle. Measuring pull where the weakest fingers are positioned on the lever is the wrong way to do it. Yes shorties will always require more strength to pull but not as much as implied due to an invalid test.
You're absolutely right! They are a waste of money - until you break your OEM levers and replacements are even more expensive than aftermarket. Then "upgrading" to aftermarket levers is logical.
I change the levers on all of my bikes because I want to be able to adjust them to the length of my fingers. I got short fingers, and the oem levers are often not adjustable, so for me it's way more comfortable and safe to be able to have the levers at the perfect distance from the handlebars
I have a hydraulic clutch with my shorty levers. I like being able to adjust the clutch bite location. Same with the brake. Congrat's on the weight loss. I'm on team ballast boy as well. I could stand to loose as well. Good on you for losing!
The only time I bought different levers I replaced some cheap asb knock offs on my Zx10r when I got it. Found some aftermarket levers that I actually enjoyed over most stocks. Longer and weren't super sharp. And decent adjustability.
I have asv levers and after hitting a deer bike went down sent me flying. The brake lever snapped in half. Sent it back and they replaced it no questions asked. Definitely worth it for the feel, looks, and customer service. Only using asv in the future. Stock levers suck.
I really like shorty levers on my brake, but NOT the clutch. You’re completely right about shorty clutches being dumb, but you’re only using two fingers on a sport bike anyways and I’d rather not crush my pinky and ring finger. It also makes it easier to ride with my brake covered and I think it makes me safer.
You addressed my one gripe with your original opinion which was adjustability. I added adjustable levers to my bike (mainly for the brake) and it's night and day. Now changing out the master seems overkill, but im not opposed to trying it lmao. I've done more suspect stuff with vehicles.
I’ve had some aftermarket levers that I really liked. I even had a cheap Amazon set that worked pretty well. I much prefer a shorter lever that’s adjustable.
My 2023 Super Duke GT clutch lever was unusable by me from the factory, the clutch doesn't engage until the last 1/4" of travel and (being 5'5" with small hands) it was out of my reach, so the whole time i waited for my new levers to come i was stuck basically dropping the clutch to start off. Plus i like my clutch to start engaging closer to the bar so i don't have 3 inches of dead space on the lever as i let it out. the brake lever wasn't as bad but i still like the braking zone of the lever to be closer so i have more control over it rather than having it at my finger tips. the full length ASV levers are fantastic, I'm not a fan of shorty levers either since i don't race or stunt id rather just have it be easier on my hands and even at full braking the lever is far enough away i could use two fingers if i wanted but the adjustment on the ASV is the best in my opinion because of how fine it is.
Hi SC. I like OG parts. But I have good reason why I bought cheap Chinese levers (clutch, front brake, and shifter) for my bike. The reason is simple, they are cheeper the the original, and if i ride on a track day, and something going wrong (i'm talking about small damages), then i replace the OG part to the aftermarket one so i can ride back home. i don't have a bike cariing vehicle. I feel more secure so. And at home i can order another OG part, and my bike stays usable state till the new part arrives. It is a good/cheep temporary solution.
Dropped my bike , broke the brake lever - Duke 790 oem costs more than asv 🤷♂️ Plus better protection in case I drop it again with their mechanism so… On another bike the adjustment was worth it as original position didn’t work for me. Nothing magical - but people spend more money for less gain on other things - so even if it’s cosmetics only who cares? That said - I would not put cheap o no name stuff on my bike that will affect safety.
I bought aftermarket levers because I ride a dual sport, and when I drop my bike on the trails, the stocks, and stock replacements, can break pretty easy. I bought some amazon shortys, and havent broke one since?
I buy aftermarket levers because I want 2-finger levers rather than the full-length stock levers. I buy mine from ASV, and love them. You do you, though.
Personally, I prefer foldable shorties, because: 1. If you drop the bike, they fold. Normal levers break. And I had a level break off the tip after dropping the bike when practically standing and with full handguards. It was usable afterwards but clumsy. So it is an advantage, IMO. 2. I have big hands. If the lever is too long, the fingers on the grip prevent me from pulling the level all the way in because they are so big. A shorty is just big enough to fit the 1-2 fingers to pull it and doesn't hit the remaining ones.
I get what you're saying. So, let's just say I honestly want to keep my stock levers, but I want them a different color. I asked Gemini about a dyi painting solution and it's thorough; a project. What I haven't really seen is any TH-camr dive into that frontier of dyi painting moto parts and probably for good reason from what I know.
Not afraid to admit I spent a grand total of $40 on levers purely because they looked cool… and I broke the OEM ones when I tipped my bike in a parking lot, and OEM replacements were unavailable at the time
I don't ever change out the front brake lever but I always swap out my clutch lever for a shorty (1FNGR) and I've never had any issues, it's actually easier to pull the clutch in.
The Brembo levers that came stock on my Ducati Monster are the best levers I have ever used. The shape is the best for my hands. I recently went for a test ride on a Triumph Daytona that had ASV short levers on it - I hated them... I have had 43 different bikes over the past 55 years and in general, I have prefered the factory fitted levers.
When I got my first bike I was fresh out of the MSF and it was so drilled into me that using all four fingers was a recipe for dumping it. Add to that my first bike not having ABS I was beyond afraid of reflex kicking in before my brain told them not to. Since then it’s been nothing but shorties. I don’t mind the extra pulling effort and I feel like I can make more minute adjustments with just the two fingers at the end of the shorter levers. IIRC they’re CRG shorties but feel more like 3/4 to OEM length
Leverage doesn't matter if you can't reach it. As others have mentioned adjustability is the key. The shorter lever (or simply a different curve) allows the curved portion to be in the perfect position for the middle and index fingers. This wasn't a problem on my 701 for example, but the deepest part of the 1290 SAR lever curve is too far to reach. I have to grab the stock lever higher even fully adjusted in. Some levers offer 2 way adjustment on lever length and reach. Offroad lever like midwest engineering does offer a lighter pull. Personally, the ASV wheel is the main selling feature for me, there's way more micro adjustments vs the common 5-7 steps on most levers. For customer service - The 544 lever actually doesn't fit with the newest gen of 1290 SA plungers. ASV machined a new plunger and changed the adjustment wheel to orange (+1hp) for me free of charge when I dropped by their office in OC.
My Yamaha Tracer 900 didn't come with an adjustable clutch lever and I like my clutch to grip very early. I know that you can adjust the cable tension but that comes with its downsides aswell. I paid under 60 bucks for both levers, approved ones with an operating permit which you'd need in my country. I honestly thing good after marked levers are one of the best upgrades (at least on cheaper bikes) you can do. Sure, if your bike is like $20.000 it propably already has great levers on them.
I personally prefer short levers that are close to the bar with wide/thicc flat sides(rectangular shape) doesn't hurt that. I can also get them color matched. On my dirt bison advs I also prefer ones that are hinged as close as possible to where they mount, I have yet to break a hinged lever, but even if I did there's about a 90% chance a $0.10 bolt would be the fix versus replacing an entire lever
My Wild at Heart aftermarket levers are probably the best upgrade I ever put on my GS, especially off-road. They allow solid 2 finger operation whilst having 3 fingers holding onto the bars. Nothing else on the market like them.
I bought regular length aftermarket ones because the clutch lever on my bike was non adjustable. I have small hands and the stock one was too far away. The aftermarket ones also have more of a dog leg in them & are a better reach for me. They are Pazzo's .
I have the GSX-8S and stock the clutch is not adjustable. With the stock lever the clutch grab was about 3/4 of the swing of the lever. I got the ASV in stock length and with the adjust available I was able to get the bite alot closer to the grip so the clutch grabs alot faster in the swing of the lever.
I don't think you mentioned this, but another factor is cost. in some countries (MX in my case) getting original levers is harder, and costs almost double than getting after market ones.
So the day after i bought my first bike i dropped it and snapped the end off my clutch lever, bought some of the red crg shorties and i like the wat the shape of those felt way more not only cuz they are more square but I liked how short they were, and i liked that they were both adjustable, rode those for years till the bike got totaled when a car hit me, and i already wanna but some new ones but i dont remember them being 100 dollars each, idk if i wanna spend that again
Are you sure you wouldnt have been better with the RCS17? I may be wrong, but I had a 2020 R1 and the RCS17 was recommended by Brembo. But could be bike specific not bike type specific.
Let me know your thoughts on these tests, and what levers you use. If you want to check any of the options I tested, links are in the description, or debate me over on the discord server: www.patreon.com/spitescorner
I had one of the earlier RE 650GT's. They didn't (at the time) come with ANY adjustment on the levers, so I got the adjustable ones from Hitchcocks. Unsure who actually manufactures them. One of the best improvements I made to it, aside from replacing the tyres with better ones.
im sorry but the main fingers used to apply lever force dont go 6" out.
Hey how followup on Mach V commander helmet? Was it fixed, does it still whistle?
never brake with your second finger
if you need to pull your brake further your first finger is stuck and you cant break any harder anymore
@@tomliekens6437 Or I can set the lever so that I don't need to pull it that far. None of my brake levers make it to the bar.
Forget adjustability, I buy my aftermarket levers because they are orange and anodized.
+1 HP per orange part. This has been anecdotally proven. Almost as good as scientifically proven.
I buy mine because the lightweight holes inside the moulding
I buy mine because I am bored and need motorcycle retail therapy. 😐
Anodised blue for me ….. but otherwise I agree totally
Yes! My KTM, anodized orange. Harley Black parts
Great job on the weight loss, dude! That’s no easy thing to do, and while not the focus of the video, that’s a damn impressive change. Great video too!
Thanks! It's been a long road, and I still have a ways to go, but I'm feeling a lot better as a result.
@spitescorner love to see it man! I've also lost 55 lbs this past year keep at it!
Good stuff indeed Spite!
@spitescorner any good suggestions that might help me out as well. I just need to lose a out 35lbs but still even thay has been extremely hard for me to do b
@@MarkIrwin02 exercise within your ability, at least half an hour every day, weights and cardio (alternate them) BUT make sure you eat less calories than you burn. Stay hydrated and get decent sleep. Make it managable and fun or you won't stick at it. Enjoy steady progress.
At the end of the day it doesn't really matter if aftermarket levers are better or not. People just want to customize their bike to their liking. Id say the majority of people buy aftermarket levers purely for aesthetics
Correct
Having that adjustment capability on the clutch is pretty good too🤔👌
I've only ever bought them because the levers actually needed replacing due to being bent or scratched up by a prior owner.
@@-Eternal-Damnation- whether, my Harley Street Bob, KTM 450EXC or Honda XR150L it is about looking cool. I am a cruiser type. Not into speed (my drag racing wife is) so I set my bikes up for comfort and style.
Props for mentioning the rider weight reduction mod. These people talking ounces when they could drop pounds by hitting the gym.
Bio-tuning is hard to beat for potential and cost-effectiveness, yes.
Yes, after brainstorming one day about how to lighten my bikes, I came to the conclusion that he best way is for me to lose weight and it's transferable across all my bikes very easily.
My mt-07 will still move me....sure a kid on duke 390 might be faster, but beer.
This was brought up in cycling decades ago. Just take a dump before a ride - hundreds of dollars worth of weight saving right there.
Unfortunately my body type says I'm 230lbs, I just get to.chose if it's muscle or fat 😂
FINALLY!
It's been 10 months since I got you that master cylinder.
Good god I can't wait until you put the suspension bits in.
Here is a reason for shorty’s: Off road with hand guards installed. Example: When I first got my DRZ400s and put on some Acerbis hand guards the stock levers would get jammed up with the guards almost every time I laid the bike down (off road as you know this is a given). The stock levers were too long for when those hand guards bent in a little, so I replaced it with some adjustable shorty’s from Amazon (forgot the brand name) and have not had an issue since.
This. So much this. My stock levers are adjustable but the length has them getting mighty close to my handguards and off road I keep one finger one each lever room for more then 2 fingers is just squishing my fingers in some cases and actually preventing me from getting full movement out of them without rearranging my fingers. The fact that the clutch needs to come all the way in for my starter to run is just insult to injury.
@@sorenmelchior Same here with me the stock levers were too long it wouldn't not fit inside the hand guards. I would imagine that's what most people change it for not for weight savings like he made in the video 😒🙄
Fitting the Brembo front brake master cylinder and Brembo disc rotors,together with Venhill braided brake lines on my GSXR 1000 K2 made an enormous difference in braking performance.
For me it's all about the feel. When you commute daily & ride on the weekend bad feeling levers get real old real fast.
I ran stock levers for 18 years on my Ninja 650 because they were adjustable for reach on both sides & felt good. When I got my Yamaha Scorpio I wasted a bunch of money on aftermarket levers to get adjustability, but none of them had the right feel & I went back to the scrap metal that Yamaha calls factory levers. My KTM Duke, on the other hand, got a shiny new set of aftermarket levers & I haven't looked back. Yes, they're orange, but I use them because the feel is much better than the stock levers & not for the looks. Well, a little for the looks. Aprilia Shiver - factory stock levers. Suzuki Bandit - aftermarket levers. It's all about the right tool for the job. I just wish you could try out levers, like you can try on a helmet, before you make a purchase. It'd save a lot of people a lot of money.
I think being able to try levers would be awesome. They're so easy to put on a bike and I think it would allow people to see for themselves if it actually makes a difference. For me, they don't, outside of adjustability. Aftermarket levers tend to feel a lot more vague.
@@spitescornerme personally, I need them. I'm short at 5'2 and I'm a woman, so my hands are small and it's usually difficult to reach the stock levers. I swapped my Triumph Trident's levers for Rizoma adjustables (length and span), set them to the shorty length, set the span as close to the handles as possible, and haven't looked back. It's way easier to reach and pull the levers in for me now! Plus since they're shorties, they didn't break when I dropped the bike last year 😅
I buy adjustable levers because on my current bike I have to take my hand off the grip to fully release the clutch which is not optimal.
Didn't you adjust the clutch cable?
You might laugh at my 2oz of weight savings, but that's also why I don't wear gear! Up to like 5lbs 2oz!
But in all seriousness. I have the PSG levers and I just like the way the shorties look. Same with my exhaust. I don't say "loud pipes save lives." I say, "Call a doctor, cause my bike looks and sounds sick!"
If you have ever broke a lever 5 miles away from any road because you kept your factory levers instead of upgrading to good break away lever you wouldn't be saying they are a waste of money.
A shorty lever has ergonomics designed to be pulled differently to stock levers. Claiming its a lighter pulls is a very close minded and simply biased answer because you install shorty levers because you like those ergonomics, and if you were to 2 finger pull a stock lever, you would apply the force pretty much at the same distance away from the pivit point, despite the lever being longer, simply because of ergonomics. Long levers are long because they are designed with the idea that many people use all fingers to pull the lever. Shorty levers are for people who use less fingers and the ergonomics are more desirable towards those people compared to stock, longer levers. Therefore, shorty levers are incredibly useful from an ergonomic standpoint for 1-2 finger pull. Looks are also something very important to some people, and that alone is an important point to consider since we would be stupid to argue against the power of fashion. If its in the market its because there is a market for it, if its been in the market for a while is because its highly desirable.
That's a great point you made, about using two fingers and how the pivot point is the same, whether on a foot long stock (plus or minus an inch) or a shorty. My F4i came with blue cheapo Amazon adjustable levers and I have to say I quite like the looks and don't have much of an issue with its use, although I find the adjustability totally useless. And lets face it: that stock F4i clutch lever is one ugly motherf$#@r of a lever. Saddest lever I've seen, looks like it was designed in the 1950s.
Hell, for the $30 bux they cost I may get a pair for my new GSXR600.
@@mxracinguy5993 Absolutely! For what actually is a very functional and not simple to manufacture item, that price is a steal. Might consider getting some for my RC36, but gotta upgrade the rest of the braking system before choosing the final levers, I dont like how squishy they feel and the stock suspension is awfully soft too, so gotta get some proper adjustable cartridges in there aswell. Might just end adapting a different front end alltogether since cartridges are freaking expensive, but already bought some clipon handlebars and the diameter wont fit with different forks. Maybe I shouldnt overcomplicate things and simply installing stiffer springs and testing different fork oil weights will do.
The main reason I swapped my levers on my last bike was (a) I like short levers because I only use two fingers and it's just comfier for me that way and (b) I thought having folding levers might save them if I dropped the bike again.
Shorter levers were comfier for me, so that part checks out. The fold-away levers didn't fold away when the bike went down, though. However, the ends were replaceable so that was way cheaper than new stock or after market levers. Which probably put me about even with just buying some used ones off eBay every time...
Also, a heavier pull might be nice on some bikes. One of the complaints I've heard about the new CBR605R is the clutch is really light and short levers with a harder pull might help that.
But beyond those notable exceptions? Yeah 100% agree with everything else you said.
Great vid! When my better half dropped my bike in a parking lot, I had to replace my levers with a $40/pair Amazon (MZS Touring) since the OEMs ($25 each) were out-of-stock. While I liked the adjustability, the color went from bright red to pale green, which implies they were made with inferior material and/or processes. Nice to see there are better options out there.
the RCS really is the best use of funds to improve braking. And for anyone looking into track days, you don't want a short brake lever. Adjusting hand grip depending on BP and lean angle, you need the full length of the lever, even if only using one or two fingers during braking.
When I broke my clutch lever I replaced both with (full length 😂) ASV levers because of their spring-back design. They might not be indestructible, but less destructable is a win for me.
Pazzo levers on my 2005 Yamaha R6. Got them with the bike but have been super happy with them. Bike came with a Brembo radial master cylinder from the factory. Upgraded the factory pads and performance has been good enough for me for both aggressive street riding as well as intermediate track day pace at my local track.
My RC-51 has a Brembo RCS 19 with Vesrah RJL pads, braided lines. 160 mph (in Mexico) will lift the rear tire seeing a deer running across the road in front. Feel is astounding! Wouldn't use anything else. Have the sane setup on my Tuono as well, sure the stock master on the 21 Ape is good, but you know. Bling!
Brembo Corsa Costa and stainless steel brake lines are single handedly the best CONFIDENCE INSPIRING upgrade I made on my bike. It gave me confidence in trusting my brakes and to brake harder going into corners. With the old master cylinder and rubber lines it would give me a different feeling 3 out of 5 times on the exact same turn which made trusting my brakes impossible. It was insane what $380 worth of parts matched with the stock Brembo calipers made and really confused me on why this didn't come like this from the factory!
Congrats on the weightloss! I lost 65lbs a few years ago, It's not easy, but so worth it!
19mm master cylinder is a lot bigger than what the stock system was designed to use. You are losing hydraulic leverage by going to a bigger master cylinder and hence your initial bite is softer.
Racers upgrade their brakes in all sorts of ways, running larger discs, more aggressive pads, etc, and a larger master cylinder is a way to reign in the bitiness and gain back some modulation of such a system.
The better solution would be to use RCS 17 or 18, close to what the original master cylinder was, but with radial master cylinder because they tend to give you more feel than the stock axial master cylinder.
Thanks Spike, appreciate ur review. I’m a fan of performance upgrade and did the brimbo brake lever and master cylinder because my stock cylinder was allowing heat to escape up the line to the brake cylinder. Yep, it engaged my front brake while on the track and caused a spill in the grass.
As an old school dirtbike rider in the days before barkbusters where invented. Shorty levers where the way to go to not get them caught on trees in the woods. They also didn't break every time the bike got dropped. So basically I've ridden all my life using 2 fingers on my levers. Every bike I've owned one of the first modifications is putting shorty levers on. I personally prefer the feel of the ASV's on my Honda CB1000r and I'm happy with them (plus they look cool to) but to each his own. People love to customize their bikes and levers are just another way of doing that. It's not really about the money
I fucking love my ASV shorties 🤣That's mostly because they have so much adjustability on the clutch. I two finger my clutch and it's nice to have the clutch lever a bit further out so it's fully engaged when pressed against my fingers. I also really appreciate the extra horsepower since they are red.
Levers are for the weak. Real men just use their feet
Flintstones method for the win
You will not be able to pull my shorty levers from my cold, dead, overworked hands...lol
Depending on the bike, some stock clutch/brake levers extend beyond the actual bars themselves, meaning accidentally dropping the bike means they could be the first thing that comes in contact with the ground, and make them snap clean off (trust me, I know).
Aftermarket, shorter levers can be a solution to this.
I agree but I had worse my Italian bike had a clutch lever and the mirror went trough the clamp so the clutch was never off result overheating
My buddy is a race engineer with a 4 axis CNC machine in his garage (among many other things). His opinion is that these amazon levers aren't bad and that for the price they're not even worth trying manufacture his own. Edit: if my levers aren't broken I'm not replacing them. If they are broken I'm shopping Amazon.
Dude, having a private cnc mill is a dream
There are chinese made levers that are good quality.
The issue is that most people are not able to identify the truly crap ones from the quality ones and second the people having issues usually fit them poorly by over-tightening them or under-tightening them, not lubing them etc.
Then they complain on the internet and everyone tells them to buy ASV's and that all chinese levers are crap which is not true.
Good to see Spite continuing to grow on TH-cam. I bought aftermarket levers a few months ago so I had to click. I don't even use the adjustability. I just like the shorties and the color
I learned this lesson. Your money is better spent on a new brake master cylinder.
I currently own a brembo rcs19, but I can also highly suggest an Accosato 19x18; it's just as good.
Shorter levers may fit inside of your handguards. for offroad riders this could be important :)
I've only ever bought cheep coloured chinese levers on ebay and I have never ever had a problem. track bikes, daily commuters, everything
Ok Spite. You redeemed yourself.
My tiny baby hands need the adjustable levers. I run stock levers on my Triumph and I run CRG levers on my R3 with woodcraft clip ons. The r3 is for street and occasional track day.
Congratulations on the weight loss, bro! That's hard work! Keep it up, man!
Well done, Spite! Loved this video style. You figured out the one and really only good reason to get them. Adjustability, particularly for a bike without it. If you drop and break the stock ones, adjustable cnc’d ones are nicer. Otherwise I’d just stick with the oems. One disagreement though, the stocks are not what the manufacturer thinks is the best for your bike. They’re what they think is the cheapest way to include levers. That’s why they are cheaply cast instead of cnc’d, and the same bare aluminum color for every model, despite not matching any bike. Choice is the spice of life though. Thanks for returning to this. Didn’t realize it was such a hotly debated issue
I dropped bike, broke clutch lever, didn't like excessive play in aftermarkets levers, bought boring long bare aluminum stock lever, happy with it.
I do want a nice clutch lever to match my Brembo radial master though. Right now she looks a bit odd wearing Brembo black on the right and Honda OEM aluminium on the left.
Good on you dropping some weight bud.
What would really bug me lever wise would be the mis match of the brembo for the brake and stock for the clutch. Do they do a matching hydraulic clutch master?
It is crazy to think that the difference in the cost of levers or a new clutch is about $20. For some reason I didn’t consider that. I do all of my own work, so yeah, glad you mentioned it.
I don't care for the shorty levers either but it's completely ridiculous to say it's a waste of money to change levers. They're important controls on your motorcycle. Adjustability and comfort are extremely important to most people. I had pain in my clutch hand and fingers. Contour of a new lever and full adjustability fixed the issue. Obviously it's not necessary if you're getting them just for an aesthetic reason. But a good set can greatly improve comfort and make your ride more enjoyable.
I put shorty, two finger pull, levers on my GSA and I wouldn't have it any other way. The key is to buy quality. I want to be able to maintain grip while throwing that bike down a trail so hard it's bucking under me and still operate the brake and clutch. But, I run OEM levers on everything else I own because they are fine for street and even track riding. You can lighten the pull weight with other mods to compensate for the lack of leverage. Some levers have a built in different fulcrums that can change the feel. The shorties I have don't feel any stiffer because they where designed to application very well.
Clutch and master cylinder mods, even swaping out different brake lines and cables can make a big difference on how a lever feels. Famously there is a lever and cable swap for HDs that lighten the clutch by as much as half.
I just installed some ASV F3s on my 2019 kawasaki versys 1000, and wow! What a difference love them
You could argue that the distance from pivot point to typical finger/pull point doesn’t change based on lever length…. Nobody is holding the tip of a lever on purpose. Although objectively it seems relevant it really doesn’t favor one way or another in my opinion.
I tend to grab the levers at the end, or closer to it, because I keep my hands at the very ends of the bars. That's my preferred spot, but the CBR is tough since the clip ons are short.
@@spitescorner when I watch you ride, you grab the clutch with four fingers. That's not pulling the clutch at the end of the lever unless you clutch with your pinky and the other fingers are just along for the ride.
I agree with Spite. I've had 6 bikes over 17 years and never felt the need to change the stock levers.
Valid points. I think it depends on the bike and the needs/wants of the rider. I kept my brake lever stock, as I saw no reason to change it. However, I swapped out my clutch lever for a Zeta ultralight shorty lever. The pull is more firm, but still light, and very adjustable tension. The stock clutch lever was stupidly light, but it'll be fine kept as a back-up.
Also remember, depending on your brake caliper piston size, don’t go too big of a master cylinder, you won’t have the ability to feel the brake, it will make it more wooden feel because of a little movement would just push the caliper piston too much. Rcs17 would fit for 32mm and below caliper piston size.
I had the asv shorty on my mt09. the best part about them is the adjustability. stock clutch lever has no adjustments, asv, even the short one, with adjustability, feels a whole lot better than stock. even if it is heavier to pull.
I also have rcs Corsa corta on my V4S. the best part about them is the you get more "resolution" with the pull and even more adjustability.
I put aftermarket levers on my track bike… they were included with the fiberglass track fairings that I purchased. There’s only one source for cbr250r fiberglass track fairings and their brand of levers is MGP. My track CBR250R was the ABS version, so I disconnected and removed the ABS pump and replaced the lines with braided stainless non-ABS lines. The levers were a freebie that gets the adjustment closer.
Adjustability... If you don't have factory adjustable levers. It's nice to adjust the lever to the exact point where your fingers bend. It's all about comfort... I still like ASV. I never looked at swapping a lever for performance. that being said I'm using the stock triumph levers that are both adjustable. If I end up breaking them for whatever reason I'll try to get factory ones to replace them if not I'll get some ASVs.🤣
Always had long crg rc2 on all my bikes. Always wanted shortys. Finally got shortys. Instant regret fz09 clutch pull vs zx10r clutch pull has a significant difference especially with a shorter lever
Good job explaining how to improve the braking on your motorcycle.
Dude, love your vids! Also your t-shirt of choice, sick band!
I bought 1 set including the brake master and the hydraulic clutch master.
I changed it because I upgraded from a cable clutch to a hydraulic clutch. And never adjusted it, just kept it at 6.
And the thing about it not being easily broken is true.
The brembo master option, hoo boy!
Totally agree. Bought my T7 used 18 months ago and it came with fancy, expensive aftermarket levers. I hate them. Congrats on the weight loss!
One thing not mentioned here that I have found particularly useful about shorty levers is they give you options in tuning mastercylinder bore size when using a 2 finger grip, which I consider best for street use. For instance my stock 2014 Honda Valkyrie had an INCREDIBLY hard brake lever to pull, I think Honda actually did it for those cruiser riders with an archaic mentality about ham fisting front brakes less chance to tuck their front. The bike came with non adjustable levers and a 5/8" bore brake master cylinder. Swapping the brake master cylinder to a used 1/2" OEM unit from another Honda cruiser model reduced the lever effort to about 65% of stock, but increased the lever pull distance to about 155% of stock, which meant the brake lever hit my 2 fingers on the grip before full travel. Swapped to a set of ebay shorty levers and the short lever missed my 2 grip fingers and everything worked perfectly, I even swapped the clutch mastercylinder from a 14mm to a matching 1/2" for less effort and greater featherability. I think the two 1/2" used OEM Honda mastercylinders off ebay cost me around $20 each and the shorty ebay levers were about $10. $50 and I completely transformed my front brakes to work the way I wanted them to. So for cosmetics at the cost of function? Absolutely not, if you are swapping the levers for a functional reason? Go for it.
A lever is not going to change the bore size on your master cylinder. The only thing that will do that is a drill. Or a lathe.
@@spitescornerNaw, the lever doesn't change the MC bore size, but shorty levers give you more lever travel potential, as the end slides between your fingers rather than hitting your ring finger and pinky on the throttle like full length levers, allowing you to swap the MC for a smaller bore size one, which gives you more travel and less effort. This is not something every bike needs by ANY means, but a handy thing to have in your tuning toolbox when needed.
Next time we’re together (next month) I’m gonna make you feel how an RSC lever feels. Easy pull geometry, cnc milled, baring on the pivot.
🖤 u jake
Bring it on. What are we doing next month?
@@spitescorner track day at G2
I really like your videos. It's a different approach from other people. As far as the lever's, I use cheap Amazon! If they break I've got a spare! I can buy 4 sets for the cost of one asv lever!
I purchased aftermarket levers for a bike that had levers broken at the break notch. Factory adjustable were $85 or $90 each at the time, ASV were $110. I did stock length on the clutch and shorty on the brake. In my eyes this was a two birds one stone situation. Did a repair and improved the look of the bike.
My braking system is stock Brembo but I do have evotech 'folding' levers cos I love the feel and look and my brakes are very powerful as I only need two finger braking from high speed to low on track. My bike is 1 2017 Aprilia RSV4-RF
My little ninja 300 has non adjustable stock levers and someone sat on my bike while I was at work and dropped it.
I like the idea of some decent levers but $300 CAN for levers on a bike I'll probably part ways with in a couple years is a bit too rich for my blood so I'll probably go with the cheapy Amazon's but I sure do appreciate the video, was super helpful!
I really think we need to accept thay very few bike mods are actually necessities. The only thing I "had" to do to my bike was swap the mirrors for bar ends, and that was only because my shoulders are too wide to give me a good view of the road with the stock ones. An exhaust or a KN air filter are nice conveniences, but i think, especially new riders should learn their bike stock before messing with it much.
For the most part, unless I have a very specific modification in mind I’ll always try to buy OEM pieces, and this includes the levers. As a broke boi in this economy, I always keep in mind that my bike expenses need to improve something about the bike. To that end my GSX-S 750 only has luggage, frame sliders, a touring windscreen, a throttle lock, sport touring tires, and steel braided lines. My WR250R is also essentially OEM, except for hand guards, bar risers, a bigger rear sprocket, tires, and iridium spark plugs.
All these mods are purpose-driven and enhance function, and I had the benefit of choosing aesthetics on them. Aftermarket levers aren’t really my thing because they don’t really fit into my mod philosophy. However, this is subject to change as I acquire more disposable income.
I buy fancy aftermarket levers because I can make the color match my bike and being CNC'd they just feel better to grip, even through gloves. Stock levers work fine most of the time but levers can change the look of a bike and it's my hobby, I want my hobby to look cool.
Regarding your pull force measurement: when a rider uses the one or two finger method to engage their clutch, they are not pulling at the end of the ball on a standard length lever (where you measured). The rider’s fingers are usually placed about mid point of the lever or, about the end of a shorty lever.
That's true, but that increases the amount of pull force required not lessens it. The math is somewhere around 29lbs to pull my clutch on the CBR with a 3.5 inch lever. I also hold the levers farther out than most people.
Not if you slide the whole stock lever perch over then two fingers can be at the ball
@@markhingst5368that is a good arquement against some one like me who wants 2 finger purchase. I'll try that out but most bars won't have that kinda room to move inboard even if your ok with drilling new holes for the locating dowel pin of the perch.
@@spitescorner You might want to think about that again. Stronger fingers are index and middle. Measuring pull where the weakest fingers are positioned on the lever is the wrong way to do it. Yes shorties will always require more strength to pull but not as much as implied due to an invalid test.
@@spitescorner in either case, measuring force required at the ball is far from telling the whole story.
You're absolutely right! They are a waste of money - until you break your OEM levers and replacements are even more expensive than aftermarket. Then "upgrading" to aftermarket levers is logical.
Cant live without them ! (Little hands) good Vid and on the nail as usual. That master cylinder is Oh so cool BUT $300, I will have to pass.
I change the levers on all of my bikes because I want to be able to adjust them to the length of my fingers.
I got short fingers, and the oem levers are often not adjustable, so for me it's way more comfortable and safe to be able to have the levers at the perfect distance from the handlebars
I have a hydraulic clutch with my shorty levers. I like being able to adjust the clutch bite location. Same with the brake.
Congrat's on the weight loss. I'm on team ballast boy as well. I could stand to loose as well. Good on you for losing!
The only time I bought different levers I replaced some cheap asb knock offs on my Zx10r when I got it. Found some aftermarket levers that I actually enjoyed over most stocks. Longer and weren't super sharp. And decent adjustability.
I have asv levers and after hitting a deer bike went down sent me flying. The brake lever snapped in half. Sent it back and they replaced it no questions asked. Definitely worth it for the feel, looks, and customer service. Only using asv in the future. Stock levers suck.
Congrats on the weight loss homie! For me it’s all about function. Duke 890r has an awesome factory lever, so it won on this bike 😊
I really like shorty levers on my brake, but NOT the clutch. You’re completely right about shorty clutches being dumb, but you’re only using two fingers on a sport bike anyways and I’d rather not crush my pinky and ring finger. It also makes it easier to ride with my brake covered and I think it makes me safer.
You addressed my one gripe with your original opinion which was adjustability. I added adjustable levers to my bike (mainly for the brake) and it's night and day. Now changing out the master seems overkill, but im not opposed to trying it lmao. I've done more suspect stuff with vehicles.
I like OEM levels because they’re big. IMO aftermarket ones are too small. Now if they made oversized ones then maybe🤔
I’ve had some aftermarket levers that I really liked. I even had a cheap Amazon set that worked pretty well. I much prefer a shorter lever that’s adjustable.
My 2023 Super Duke GT clutch lever was unusable by me from the factory, the clutch doesn't engage until the last 1/4" of travel and (being 5'5" with small hands) it was out of my reach, so the whole time i waited for my new levers to come i was stuck basically dropping the clutch to start off. Plus i like my clutch to start engaging closer to the bar so i don't have 3 inches of dead space on the lever as i let it out. the brake lever wasn't as bad but i still like the braking zone of the lever to be closer so i have more control over it rather than having it at my finger tips. the full length ASV levers are fantastic, I'm not a fan of shorty levers either since i don't race or stunt id rather just have it be easier on my hands and even at full braking the lever is far enough away i could use two fingers if i wanted but the adjustment on the ASV is the best in my opinion because of how fine it is.
Hi SC. I like OG parts. But I have good reason why I bought cheap Chinese levers (clutch, front brake, and shifter) for my bike. The reason is simple, they are cheeper the the original, and if i ride on a track day, and something going wrong (i'm talking about small damages), then i replace the OG part to the aftermarket one so i can ride back home. i don't have a bike cariing vehicle. I feel more secure so. And at home i can order another OG part, and my bike stays usable state till the new part arrives. It is a good/cheep temporary solution.
Braided steel brake lines make a difference with ease of application and can really smooth your inputs out too
Dropped my bike , broke the brake lever - Duke 790 oem costs more than asv 🤷♂️
Plus better protection in case I drop it again with their mechanism so…
On another bike the adjustment was worth it as original position didn’t work for me.
Nothing magical - but people spend more money for less gain on other things - so even if it’s cosmetics only who cares?
That said - I would not put cheap o no name stuff on my bike that will affect safety.
I bought aftermarket levers because I ride a dual sport, and when I drop my bike on the trails, the stocks, and stock replacements, can break pretty easy. I bought some amazon shortys, and havent broke one since?
I buy aftermarket levers because I want 2-finger levers rather than the full-length stock levers. I buy mine from ASV, and love them. You do you, though.
Personally, I prefer foldable shorties, because:
1. If you drop the bike, they fold. Normal levers break. And I had a level break off the tip after dropping the bike when practically standing and with full handguards. It was usable afterwards but clumsy. So it is an advantage, IMO.
2. I have big hands. If the lever is too long, the fingers on the grip prevent me from pulling the level all the way in because they are so big. A shorty is just big enough to fit the 1-2 fingers to pull it and doesn't hit the remaining ones.
I get what you're saying. So, let's just say I honestly want to keep my stock levers, but I want them a different color. I asked Gemini about a dyi painting solution and it's thorough; a project. What I haven't really seen is any TH-camr dive into that frontier of dyi painting moto parts and probably for good reason from what I know.
Not afraid to admit I spent a grand total of $40 on levers purely because they looked cool… and I broke the OEM ones when I tipped my bike in a parking lot, and OEM replacements were unavailable at the time
I don't ever change out the front brake lever but I always swap out my clutch lever for a shorty (1FNGR) and I've never had any issues, it's actually easier to pull the clutch in.
The Brembo levers that came stock on my Ducati Monster are the best levers I have ever used. The shape is the best for my hands. I recently went for a test ride on a Triumph Daytona that had ASV short levers on it - I hated them... I have had 43 different bikes over the past 55 years and in general, I have prefered the factory fitted levers.
When I got my first bike I was fresh out of the MSF and it was so drilled into me that using all four fingers was a recipe for dumping it. Add to that my first bike not having ABS I was beyond afraid of reflex kicking in before my brain told them not to. Since then it’s been nothing but shorties. I don’t mind the extra pulling effort and I feel like I can make more minute adjustments with just the two fingers at the end of the shorter levers. IIRC they’re CRG shorties but feel more like 3/4 to OEM length
Leverage doesn't matter if you can't reach it. As others have mentioned adjustability is the key. The shorter lever (or simply a different curve) allows the curved portion to be in the perfect position for the middle and index fingers. This wasn't a problem on my 701 for example, but the deepest part of the 1290 SAR lever curve is too far to reach. I have to grab the stock lever higher even fully adjusted in. Some levers offer 2 way adjustment on lever length and reach. Offroad lever like midwest engineering does offer a lighter pull.
Personally, the ASV wheel is the main selling feature for me, there's way more micro adjustments vs the common 5-7 steps on most levers. For customer service - The 544 lever actually doesn't fit with the newest gen of 1290 SA plungers. ASV machined a new plunger and changed the adjustment wheel to orange (+1hp) for me free of charge when I dropped by their office in OC.
That's why I admitted I was wrong about that in the video. I can reach any lever on any bike and was looking at things through my POV.
My Yamaha Tracer 900 didn't come with an adjustable clutch lever and I like my clutch to grip very early. I know that you can adjust the cable tension but that comes with its downsides aswell.
I paid under 60 bucks for both levers, approved ones with an operating permit which you'd need in my country.
I honestly thing good after marked levers are one of the best upgrades (at least on cheaper bikes) you can do. Sure, if your bike is like $20.000 it propably already has great levers on them.
My Kawi I never changed the levers HD was changed in under a month.
I personally prefer short levers that are close to the bar with wide/thicc flat sides(rectangular shape) doesn't hurt that. I can also get them color matched.
On my dirt bison advs I also prefer ones that are hinged as close as possible to where they mount, I have yet to break a hinged lever, but even if I did there's about a 90% chance a $0.10 bolt would be the fix versus replacing an entire lever
My Wild at Heart aftermarket levers are probably the best upgrade I ever put on my GS, especially off-road. They allow solid 2 finger operation whilst having 3 fingers holding onto the bars. Nothing else on the market like them.
I bought regular length aftermarket ones because the clutch lever on my bike was non adjustable. I have small hands and the stock one was too far away. The aftermarket ones also have more of a dog leg in them & are a better reach for me. They are Pazzo's .
I have the GSX-8S and stock the clutch is not adjustable. With the stock lever the clutch grab was about 3/4 of the swing of the lever. I got the ASV in stock length and with the adjust available I was able to get the bite alot closer to the grip so the clutch grabs alot faster in the swing of the lever.
clutch lever shape also affects the feel because the shape affects the direction of the torque applied
I don't think you mentioned this, but another factor is cost. in some countries (MX in my case) getting original levers is harder, and costs almost double than getting after market ones.
So the day after i bought my first bike i dropped it and snapped the end off my clutch lever, bought some of the red crg shorties and i like the wat the shape of those felt way more not only cuz they are more square but I liked how short they were, and i liked that they were both adjustable, rode those for years till the bike got totaled when a car hit me, and i already wanna but some new ones but i dont remember them being 100 dollars each, idk if i wanna spend that again
Are you sure you wouldnt have been better with the RCS17? I may be wrong, but I had a 2020 R1 and the RCS17 was recommended by Brembo. But could be bike specific not bike type specific.
I think it's a taste thing, but the master cylinder was given to me so I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth.
Interesting video. I haven't had or rode a sport bike. Didn't know levers were a thing.