Both Senior and Junior have a way of presenting that most TH-camrs could benefit from by copying, like it! Watching you guys overhauling these vintage engines is absolutely no waste of time
Always enjoy the presentations by you both. No profanity, obnoxious music or meaningless "Hey, whats up guys" intro, just pure MN down to earth content. When shows open up again, I hope to meet you and Toby in person. Keep up the good work and stay healthy.
I really like how methodical you are, Sr. A very good way to do things. Getting ahead of yourself only causes problems. My Dad used to say, "Do you want to buy top quality oats or oats that have already been through the horse."
Oh how I learned these lessons the hard way. So wish I could have heard your advice before I built mine. Managed to catch a few of these items but makes me want to build it again. Your observation and approach 100% reflects what I learned building my H motor. Great video and thank you for sharing Squash Sr.!
I love seeing someone using sealer the proper way. So many use way too much and cause major problems. I've seen so many pic up screens plugged up to cause catastrophic engine failure it's not funny. Have a great day everyone 👍👍🌞🌎
Love these series u both do lets me know if my techniques need re vamped or I'm pretty close 💪 one thing that I'll never get the hang of is cuttin out new gaskets that are immaculately done like yours are 👍👍
Senior really hit the nail square at about 2:22 . Other people's messes are really educational. His pan gasket approach no doubt works as well as any. The old pro who taught me used 3M weatherstripping adhesive on one side of a cork gasket,and Vaseline on the other. Made pulling one apart a breeze,reusable. Once the weatherstripping locks down the gasket on one side,it will not move around at assembly. So at least two ways of doing it well. No doubt there are others. And just as he indicates,cork gaskets have squeezout. So two tightenings. My old pro friend would approve of Senior,if he were still around.
On top of that, if you use the weather strip adhesive or the 3M spray glue, be sure and only use it on the part that comes off the engine block. If, for example you’re changing a water pump, glue the gasket to the pump and use the grease on the engine block side of the gasket so you don’t have to clean the glue off the engine in the future. Same thing with engine covers, it’s way easier to clean the glue off a cover on the work bench than on the engine in the vehicle. Silicone seems to be a better choice sometimes because lacquer thinner soaked rag will cut it right off of almost any surface.
@@ralfie8801 Quite correct. Should have mentioned it,but it was self evident to me back when. It is not self evident to everyone,and just became an automatic habit.
Good comment on Sealers I have seen people who don't understand how to use a silicone products and I seen other people who are fully aware of all the dangers and do an excellent job using the exact same products I've also worked on engines that did not even use a head gasket that's right no head gasket and no sealer.
"The bigger the glob, the better the job!" - not. Good on you using the right amount of sealant and not overdoing it. Now you just need to educate Jr that a freshly painted engine is a happy engine!
@@squatch253 You may wish to look into a Xim product called Flashbond. Acts as a sort of glue when repainting over old but stable paint. Reduces prep time,and aids in a really glossy finish. Lots of auction houses selling fleet or lease vehicles would use the stuff. If you are taking everything down to bare metal I doubt it would do much good,but even journeyman painters were impressed with the stuff.
I wish I still had my Dads Super M it had a Fire Crater head with domed pistons,And a different Cam when it was working hard it had a blue flame about 6 inch long.
@3:49 one thing I think is just as important as torque on mains and rods and head bolts is torque on small fasteners, like oil pan bolts- over tightening will squeeze out a cork gasket, or warp a sheet metal pan and cause leaks every time.
Does anyone still use the cork plugs in the block when they overhaul these engines or when replacing the pan gasket. I couldn’t tell by your video if they were installed when you installed the oil pan.
Nice video, what is the reason for the water jacket plate on the M's engine, there is nothing to tune or repair in there, my IH Super A haven't got a plate
FWIW, that'd be "present OR accounted for". (All assigned pers are mustered locally or on duty elsewhere, IOW. This assumes that muster has been taken. BTDT) HTH and TTFN
Always install cork gaskets completely dry, do not use sealer or grease on cork, keep working the bolts down a bit at a time until quite tight, you can go back to them after a few heat cycles and retighten. I'm a professional race car engine builder and this is good information
That’s it. When you let it set up, it’s a little harder than the cork, so it makes an impression in the cork when you tighten the bolts the final time. Plus it helps keep the cork in place a little better.
@Lance Landis He said the instructions said so. I used a sealer one time that actually said to tighten the bolts finger tight i believe it was and do the final tightening much later----just forget the exact time frame now and what brand it was. I showed a co-worker what it said and he was surprised as well. We did what Senior is doing here normally because we used various Permatex products as well.
@@timbrake3404 No, he mistakenly said 175 the second time. At least normal people know he just made a mistake, i was watching another Channel a while ago where the guy was using an inch-pounds torque wrench in the video and some guy in the comments thought it was foot-lbs! This on a 1/4" or 5/16" bolt at the most. Some have no common sense at all. Obviously never torqued anything in their life to think a bolt that size wouldn't break at the torque the guy was using if it wasn't inch-pounds.
Both Senior and Junior have a way of presenting that most TH-camrs could benefit from by copying, like it!
Watching you guys overhauling these vintage engines is absolutely no waste of time
Always enjoy the presentations by you both. No profanity, obnoxious music or meaningless "Hey, whats up guys" intro, just pure MN down to earth content. When shows open up again, I hope to meet you and Toby in person. Keep up the good work and stay healthy.
Love Super M engine content! Good morning Senior, hope all is well.
G'day Luke
@@Murphyslawfarm GDay Murph
I really like how methodical you are, Sr. A very good way to do things. Getting ahead of yourself only causes problems. My Dad used to say, "Do you want to buy top quality oats or oats that have already been through the horse."
Thoroughly enjoyed the build, its a tough old engine and will look nice with a fresh paint.
Oh how I learned these lessons the hard way. So wish I could have heard your advice before I built mine. Managed to catch a few of these items but makes me want to build it again. Your observation and approach 100% reflects what I learned building my H motor. Great video and thank you for sharing Squash Sr.!
Great video of the rebuild. Hope to see it running soon. These videos are always so informative. Thanks for sharing.
You’re a very good teacher on how to do it you’re yours and experience attention to the fine details will help the younger generation
I've watched this a couple of times. Thanks Senior
All content no clutter. Perfect . Thanks again Sr.
I love seeing someone using sealer the proper way. So many use way too much and cause major problems. I've seen so many pic up screens plugged up to cause catastrophic engine failure it's not funny. Have a great day everyone 👍👍🌞🌎
Can't wait to see the paint! Great job on your rebuild.
Senior is a master. Makes sense that junior is also.
You do good work sir every thing perfect on your tractors
Really enjoy watching you work.
Loved the tips Sr. Have enjoyed the series on the M-rebuild!!
Great job Sr...love the old school torque wrench.
Love these series u both do lets me know if my techniques need re vamped or I'm pretty close 💪 one thing that I'll never get the hang of is cuttin out new gaskets that are immaculately done like yours are 👍👍
Senior is a pleasure to observe and listen to-no uh, um, or kvetching…
Well done senior!! !! I hope the house has AC!! Stay cool!!!
Senior really hit the nail square at about 2:22 . Other people's messes are really educational. His pan gasket approach no doubt works as well as any. The old pro who taught me used 3M weatherstripping adhesive on one side of a cork gasket,and Vaseline on the other. Made pulling one apart a breeze,reusable. Once the weatherstripping locks down the gasket on one side,it will not move around at assembly.
So at least two ways of doing it well. No doubt there are others.
And just as he indicates,cork gaskets have squeezout. So two tightenings.
My old pro friend would approve of Senior,if he were still around.
I use 3M Super77 occasionally
On top of that, if you use the weather strip adhesive or the 3M spray glue, be sure and only use it on the part that comes off the engine block. If, for example you’re changing a water pump, glue the gasket to the pump and use the grease on the engine block side of the gasket so you don’t have to clean the glue off the engine in the future. Same thing with engine covers, it’s way easier to clean the glue off a cover on the work bench than on the engine in the vehicle. Silicone seems to be a better choice sometimes because lacquer thinner soaked rag will cut it right off of almost any surface.
@@ralfie8801 Quite correct. Should have mentioned it,but it was self evident to me back when. It is not self evident to everyone,and just became an automatic habit.
Good comment on Sealers I have seen people who don't understand how to use a silicone products and I seen other people who are fully aware of all the dangers and do an excellent job using the exact same products I've also worked on engines that did not even use a head gasket that's right no head gasket and no sealer.
Thanks sr love the free reliable information
"The bigger the glob, the better the job!" - not. Good on you using the right amount of sealant and not overdoing it. Now you just need to educate Jr that a freshly painted engine is a happy engine!
@@squatch253 You may wish to look into a Xim product called Flashbond. Acts as a sort of glue when repainting over old but stable paint. Reduces prep time,and aids in a really glossy finish. Lots of auction houses selling fleet or lease vehicles would use the stuff. If you are taking everything down to bare metal I doubt it would do much good,but even journeyman painters were impressed with the stuff.
Really enjoy the content and these earnest gentlemen.
Well done Senior! No oi or water leaks on that Super M engine. :-)
Thanks for sharing! Full watch and thumbs up!
Looking good, fellas! She'll look out of place in the chassis with new paint... Kind of like my M. :-)
I wish I still had my Dads Super M it had a Fire Crater head with domed pistons,And a different Cam when it was working hard it had a blue flame about 6 inch long.
A speed wrench. How quaint.
People always go crazy on the hardware on those cork gaskets and that never ends well.
@3:49 one thing I think is just as important as torque on mains and rods and head bolts is torque on small fasteners, like oil pan bolts- over tightening will squeeze out a cork gasket, or warp a sheet metal pan and cause leaks every time.
You can’t be serious-
Hi Sr i know where Jr got his attention to detail great job sir
G'day Senior great video.
I've watched this build from the start and I didn't realize how deep that oil pan really was...just an observation.
Interesting to see what looks like punch marks on the one corner of the block on the pan mounting surface, any reason you know of?
Does anyone still use the cork plugs in the block when they overhaul these engines or when replacing the pan gasket. I couldn’t tell by your video if they were installed when you installed the oil pan.
I love that engine
Is the sealer you use a rust preventer on the cover in the area by the water jacket?
Do those pan bolt holes go all the way through like a farmall 200 and super c??
Nice going Senior! :-)
Like Brylcream (spelling) at little dab will do ya
Nice video, what is the reason for the water jacket plate on the M's engine, there is nothing to tune or repair in there, my IH Super A haven't got a plate
What is the purpose of the baffles on the side cover please?
Present and accounted for
Awaiting roll call
FWIW, that'd be "present OR accounted for". (All assigned pers are mustered locally or on duty elsewhere, IOW. This assumes that muster has been taken. BTDT) HTH and TTFN
Squatch , You up in northern Mn?
Always install cork gaskets completely dry, do not use sealer or grease on cork, keep working the bolts down a bit at a time until quite tight, you can go back to them after a few heat cycles and retighten. I'm a professional race car engine builder and this is good information
But otherwise a clean presentation.
New Paint, now you're talking !
Is a beam torque wrench more accurate than a click stop?
No-provided your click stop wrench is quality, isn’t Chinese pos, hasn’t been abused. Any Snap-on truck has a testing device.
175 in/lb = 14.5 ft/lb
What is you reasoning on letting the silicone set up some, to keep it from squeezing out?
That’s it. When you let it set up, it’s a little harder than the cork, so it makes an impression in the cork when you tighten the bolts the final time. Plus it helps keep the cork in place a little better.
@Lance Landis He said the instructions said so. I used a sealer one time that actually said to tighten the bolts finger tight i believe it was and do the final tightening much later----just forget the exact time frame now and what brand it was. I showed a co-worker what it said and he was surprised as well. We did what Senior is doing here normally because we used various Permatex products as well.
175 inch pounds is 14.58 foot pounds.
175 in/lbs is 14.58 ft/lbs, not 5 to 7 ft/lbs.
It’s probably a good thing 15 ft/lbs of torque won’t hurt that cork gasket too bad then.
He said 75 not 175.
@@timbrake3404 No, he mistakenly said 175 the second time. At least normal people know he just made a mistake, i was watching another Channel a while ago where the guy was using an inch-pounds torque wrench in the video and some guy in the comments thought it was foot-lbs! This on a 1/4" or 5/16" bolt at the most. Some have no common sense at all. Obviously never torqued anything in their life to think a bolt that size wouldn't break at the torque the guy was using if it wasn't inch-pounds.
And stuff... Would you just look at that stuff!
Just a dab will do ya, less is more...
.
Is Squatch JR adopted? Because he doesn’t paint anything so you can’t possibly be his Bio-dad! Jk jk