Really, really enjoyed this video! Warming up on the wall is my dream I'd not properly considered before and practicing things like heel hooks and toe hooks on easier climbs during warm up is also gold to me, thanks as always.
Great video once again, quite similar to how I normally would warm up. The part that really stood out was talking about "what is this session for." Lots of the time I won't think about that and if I do a more specific warmup for my max projecting sessions this could help me out more!
I like to vary my climbing terrain in a session to avoid/get rid of a pump! If I get too pumped early in my session, I’ll spend some time on slab to even it out.
I feel that heel hooks are the hardest on the body because they are unnatural, we are not made to pull with the leg. During my climbing learning journey, I eventually reach a grade where they were mandatory, initially for balance but eventually for holding on half of my weight on 6c/7a type of boulders. At this point my legs were refusing to hold on that much weight. Eventually they adapted and functioned, but as soon as it happened and I trusted them, I had an injury. Without notice, and I felt it way later during the day, it took 8 months to heal. All that to say that the warm up of the heel hook is extremely important. I like your routine, I start exactly like you do.
Hey Zach and Maddie, thanks a lot for all the content the two of you have been putting out. I was wondering (if you are comfortable sharing) what both your heights are, tried finding it but coudn't find it.
Great video Maddie! I was just looking through last year's Dark Horse results and realized you and Zach both made podium at my home gym! Any chance you guys are planning to come take part in Dark Horse again?
I noticed a lot of people in my gym doing crimp, pinch, slope hang on the training section walls before climbing. What do you think about it ? For now considering my low level I'm afraid of exhausting my day's energy reserve doing that, but I often struggle with the first couple of hard grade boulder that I try in the fingers feeling, I wonder if instead of doing easy crimpy boulders, I should do a bit of hangs instead to be more controlled.
That’s definitely a good option too! Zach warms up on a hangboard before he trains his fingers, but I honestly find it a little boring so I like to warm up my fingers on the wall! Fingers are definitely hard to warm up so if you want to target your fingers better, doing some light hangs on the hangboard are a great tool.
Great question! The warmup is definitely much shorter for endurance because the boulders I get on aren’t as hard as they would be for a normal session. I would do 3/4 of the volume phase as normal, then take a short break and get straight into the endurance training.
How do you think age affects the sustainability of mostly on-the-wall warm-ups ? I used to do mostly on the wall as well, but after picking up a few (unrelated) niggles, I have incorporated quite a few off-the-wall exercices (activation mostly) and a 10min hangboard routine that my physio recommended. Still warm-up on the wall as well, though.
Yes I’m the same. Depending on what tweaks or injuries I have, my physio will give me exercises to do before I climb. I usually do them for a few months then they fade out of the program. Right now I just have some quick stretches for tendinitis. For me, the warm up is an ebb and flow of pre-/rehab exercises while the on the wall stays the same!
I do a very similar warm up but in the volume phase I spend 3-4 minutes on the wall traversing to get a bigger pump going! I’ll do that two or three times then hop on a route. If you’re in a ropes gym, I’ll just do 4-5 easier routes and then get on something hard.
You just want to avoid flash pump when you’re into your actual session. If you get a light, controlled pump in your warm up, you’re much less likely to get super pumped during your session!
One of the best climbing channel, hands down
agreed! the amount of usable and practical information is ridiculous. high quality presentation and high quality education.
Im pretty prone to injuries, so its really nice to have a routine to use as an example. Thanks for the video!
Really, really enjoyed this video! Warming up on the wall is my dream I'd not properly considered before and practicing things like heel hooks and toe hooks on easier climbs during warm up is also gold to me, thanks as always.
Love the chicken chalk basket!
Super great video, dropping a comment for the algorithm gods 😎
It took me a long time to figure out how to warm up on the wall. Thanks for the additional tips! Will be adding some toe hooks
Great video once again, quite similar to how I normally would warm up. The part that really stood out was talking about "what is this session for." Lots of the time I won't think about that and if I do a more specific warmup for my max projecting sessions this could help me out more!
Great insight! Thanks, guys!
Great advice many thanks
I do some towel scrunches for my metatarsals and warm my feet using the foot wash station. That way my toes aren’t blocks of ice in my shoes.
Cool stuff ! What to do If you get pump too early in the session ? Is there a way to make the arms de-pump ?
I like to vary my climbing terrain in a session to avoid/get rid of a pump! If I get too pumped early in my session, I’ll spend some time on slab to even it out.
I feel that heel hooks are the hardest on the body because they are unnatural, we are not made to pull with the leg. During my climbing learning journey, I eventually reach a grade where they were mandatory, initially for balance but eventually for holding on half of my weight on 6c/7a type of boulders. At this point my legs were refusing to hold on that much weight. Eventually they adapted and functioned, but as soon as it happened and I trusted them, I had an injury. Without notice, and I felt it way later during the day, it took 8 months to heal. All that to say that the warm up of the heel hook is extremely important. I like your routine, I start exactly like you do.
Very helpfull. Thanks!
Nice job
Hey Zach and Maddie, thanks a lot for all the content the two of you have been putting out. I was wondering (if you are comfortable sharing) what both your heights are, tried finding it but coudn't find it.
Haha I’m 5 foot 7 and Zach is 5 foot 10
Great video Maddie!
I was just looking through last year's Dark Horse results and realized you and Zach both made podium at my home gym! Any chance you guys are planning to come take part in Dark Horse again?
Thanks! Oh that’s so cool haha!
Unfortunately I don’t think we’ll be able to make it out to dark horses this year though
I noticed a lot of people in my gym doing crimp, pinch, slope hang on the training section walls before climbing. What do you think about it ? For now considering my low level I'm afraid of exhausting my day's energy reserve doing that, but I often struggle with the first couple of hard grade boulder that I try in the fingers feeling, I wonder if instead of doing easy crimpy boulders, I should do a bit of hangs instead to be more controlled.
That’s definitely a good option too! Zach warms up on a hangboard before he trains his fingers, but I honestly find it a little boring so I like to warm up my fingers on the wall!
Fingers are definitely hard to warm up so if you want to target your fingers better, doing some light hangs on the hangboard are a great tool.
@@richardsonsclimbing thanks Madi
Great vid. If you were training endurance would your volume section be the same but without the minute/minute half break?
Great question! The warmup is definitely much shorter for endurance because the boulders I get on aren’t as hard as they would be for a normal session.
I would do 3/4 of the volume phase as normal, then take a short break and get straight into the endurance training.
Great stuff. Cheers for that.
How do you think age affects the sustainability of mostly on-the-wall warm-ups ?
I used to do mostly on the wall as well, but after picking up a few (unrelated) niggles, I have incorporated quite a few off-the-wall exercices (activation mostly) and a 10min hangboard routine that my physio recommended. Still warm-up on the wall as well, though.
Yes I’m the same. Depending on what tweaks or injuries I have, my physio will give me exercises to do before I climb. I usually do them for a few months then they fade out of the program.
Right now I just have some quick stretches for tendinitis. For me, the warm up is an ebb and flow of pre-/rehab exercises while the on the wall stays the same!
Clever warm up. Well done. Would a warm up for a lead/sport climbing be different? Thanks.
I do a very similar warm up but in the volume phase I spend 3-4 minutes on the wall traversing to get a bigger pump going! I’ll do that two or three times then hop on a route. If you’re in a ropes gym, I’ll just do 4-5 easier routes and then get on something hard.
@@richardsonsclimbingThank you. Very useful. Please continue with your videos. You are a very good channel! Well done.
I might have missed that info but, How long does your warm up takes?
Usually just 20-30 minutes!
Why does getting pumped in your warmup help you not get as pumped later in the session?
You just want to avoid flash pump when you’re into your actual session. If you get a light, controlled pump in your warm up, you’re much less likely to get super pumped during your session!
garbage warmup
please help and show us your world class warm up 🙏
Yeah like at 4:53 😂 I can't do stuff like that not even when i'm fully warm so..