Review: Harbor Freight Bauer 1643E-B Demo Hammer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ส.ค. 2018
- For too many years I've been tearing up tiled floors during bath and kitchen remodels by hand. Finally I decided to take a chance on an inexpensive demo hammer made by Harbor Freight and sold under their Bauer house brand. Normally I shy away from their cheap electrical tools, but this time was different. See my complete review with actual demolition work being shown.
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Great video. I love Harbor Freight Tools. Over the years, most of them have lasted way more than I expected. And the ones that didn't were cheap enough I felt fine replacing them. Thanks for showing us this one in action. Doing a job on a cement post with hammer and chisel, and came to check out my options - this was perfect.
Now this is how you make a tool demo / review video. Excellent, excellent video. Thank you very much.
Spot on!!!!
Love this tool. I have used it primarily for taking down concrete block fences. I change the grease often and it's still running after three years.
How often.?
Thanks for this video! Buying one of these later (with a current coupon that makes it $99!) to remove about 400 sq ft of tile. Even it if only lasts me for this job only, it's TOTALLY worth it :-)
@Foxtrot I can tell you as I have this, I do commercial tile install, this thing is a freaking beast for tile removal. I can tell you this unit, is comparable to bosch units. Crazy power. And I'm very very surprised for harbor freight.
Great review....my buddy sent me this video and we'll probably be picking up one of these from Harbor Freight....
this thing is a beast I bid on one last years very cheap on ebay it never failed i use for my most of my technician work for install surveillance camera even yeaterday i use it to chisel some stones in a pit am currently digging , really heavy duty am no disappointing
OMG thank you very much, you are the only one that explained about the grease...I was thinking I had to add oil to this thing but didn't no where....even the manual didn't say.
Yeah, those manuals do leave something to be desired!
You need to grease the bit shanks also
@@mikemcintosh295 yes, grease the end of the shank bits before you insert into the chuck
I've been a contractor for decades and the physical part is starting to wear on the body. Using power tools more often and where ever I can, I strongly recommend. I prefer the name brands but, I have purchased tools from Harbor Freight and have been pleasantly surprised by the power and reliability. I bought a Harbor Freight multi cut-off tool for $35.00 years ago and after years and years of use, the thing just won't die and never had a reason to upgrade to the more expensive $200 version at Home Depot. Having said that...I'm not surprised the Demo hammer did the job for you. Are there more powerful and expensive tools out there? Absolutely! Do we always need to spend the extra $ to do the job? I think NOT!
Great video! You covered it all my friend. Very thorough.
Yeah, I feel your pain! For decades I just powered through adversity and worried more about the job than my body. Now in my late 50s it's catching up to me. I'm also looking to use tools instead of muscle now wherever I can. And, that doesn't necessarily mean high-end, expensive tools either. Sometimes cheaper tools are just fine and preserve profits. My work truck is 28 years old, I don't need a $65K lifted pickup either. I've seen many contractors over-extend themselves with expensive toys who are now out of business.
The shield is used when you are hammering upwards to prevent dust entering the tool.
Good review. Thank you for a good video.
I've been using this hammer drill for almost three years to drill 3/4" holes, 5" to 10" deep in solid granite rock to split stone with wedges and feathers. It drills fast and I have had no issues. I've also been using the 70/75 lb jackhammer with no issues. They both do great work at a fraction of the price of name brands. I recently had the brush go out on the jackhammer, easy fix. The hammer drill is still going strong.
Yeah, my unit has been going strong. When I made the comment about drilling, I was referring to construction type work, such as precision drilling for hardware anchors in concrete or drilling through tile for anchors. I'm sure this would be fine for less precision work such as breaking up rock or concrete.
Tom what grease you use?
Hey there! I'm actually trying to figure out how to change the brushes on mine. Can you give me any pointers? thanks!
You said it wouldn’t be good for drilling. In my opinion it works great for drilling into foundations. It’s done everything I’ve asked of it.
I didn't mean to imply that you can't use it in a drill capacity, I was only trying to convey that if you need precision holes for anchors or something like that, a hammer drill is a better choice. If you just need to knock a hole in some masonry this will work fine, but it wouldn't be my choice for precision work.
I bought model 1641E-B, just below this one and love it. Had to bust up my concrete foundation under my shower to relocate the drain for a new shower pan. To have more controlled cuts I hammer drilled some holes first. The hammer drill went through the concrete like butter. HINT: pour water on the concrete often to keep the dust down.
Thanks for this comment. I was wondering how these HF Demolition Hammer will fair against my slab for similar plumbing changes. I've got one obstacle, PEX hydronic radiant heat lines in my slab, but I'm hoping the lighter Demo Hammer (7.3lbs) will be gentler on the PEX. Sounds like even on the lighter "gentler" end of the offerings I should be able to get through the slab easily.
For reference:
1631E-B - 18lbs Impact - 23.7lbs Single Mode - SDS Max - $300
1643E-B - 7.4lbs Impact - 13.7lbs Two Modes - SDS Max - $140
1641E-B - 3.8lbs Impact - 11.9lbs Three Modes - SDS - $109
I just pick this up because of your review. I got it for $69.99 with my coupon. It's rated up to 3900 BPM now. Thanks!
I just used mine again last week on a bathroom demo--I'm an idiot for not getting one sooner. Well worth the money and it seems to be holding up longer term.
Get out!! They let you use the coupon for it? The cashier must have been blind because this brand is specifically excluded.
@@UpcomingJedi It was probably a product specific coupon....not the 20% off one.
@@UpcomingJedi I'm glad my casher was blind too because I used a coupon on this today for 69.99. I wonder if she gets fired for this blunder
Good review , I was wondering if other brands of bits would fit in this beast . I'm with you on doing anything to help make your job easier and if HF tools get it done all the better .
Yeah, the SDS Max shank is standard, so that Bosch bit I purchased fit right in.
Any SDS bit will work
This is DEFINATELY a good purchase. Comparing it to a hammer drill for holes in stones and concrete, the drill just doesnt cut it. Now, if only they stocked something BIGGER like a rock drill (not the electric demolition hammer) that would be awesome!
I just bought a Bauer Hammer Drill ($99). I wrote HF product support about the grease because the owner manual makes no mention of what grease to use. They responded within 24 hrs (5 stars for that). They said to use Lithium #2 or #3 grease monthly.
Dan Burch I just had the same problem about the grease. Get the super lube, it has a higher melting point and less black grease out the front
Great video. I'll say though, I do drill with mine. Great for anchor holes in concrete or brick.
When I made that statement I really meant drilling holes for more delicate tasks, like through tile to mount a shower door or whatever. I personally wouldn't use it for drilling until I got into much bigger things. I have two regular hammer drills which get me to 3/4".
I just got home with the pro model above this one $289.99. (I had a 10% off coupon for this brand, other coupons exempt, so got $29 off). I told them I needed it to break up quartz boulders from my gold mine. The set of chisels were normally $45 but I had a 25% off coupon. Within 60 seconds, I saw the tip of the chisel wear down about 1 inch and sparks flying inside to rock hole. Once the tip wore off, it started busting up the rock just fine.
So, I just bought one of these (actually the 1641E-B model) to chisel out some eroded areas in a concrete walkway. I will be starting on it soon and will report back with any updates on how it performs.
thanks great video
There is 1 that is all red color plastic housing for $97 and another 1 that is a long version, that’s the lowest. Trust me I tryed it, usually it’s operators error when it comes to how to use them, people think they need to push hard , but no, not at all, it works just like a jack hammer hold it light and let it do it’s job when it comes to braking concrete
We need to be careful when describing HF tools by shape or color because they change the models constantly. But, the one in the video is still the base model that accepts the SDS max chisels, which is an industry standard.
We just got a HF within the last few years. I am warming up to them on some stuff. I like buying there moving blankets half then price of good ones about half the padding too but at that price I don't mind throwing them on the floor or over stuff where they may get wrecked. Save my good ones for protecting cabinets or furniture. Also some consumable stuff I been getting there. Seems like all that kind of stuff is 3.99 or whatever. lol
Yeah, I mean, you have to be selective. Basic hand tools like wrenches and sockets are fine, I've had success with a compressor and with floor jacks. Things that aren't electric, electronic or particularly complex are pretty safe there. And, let's face it, if you buy name brand stuff most of that is made in China or Asia anyway! They also sell absolute garbage, though, so you just walk right on by.
Look very good I just bought one. $175.00 Thank you for your help
I have one that about $75 Its great broke up a cement bed in my bathroom now I want to get the drill bits for it never know what you may need it for great to have in your tool arsenal
Good review too late for my recent tile job, but wait there will be more. Thanks!
Great review like your summary at the end the best. I think that this will be perfect for me. All the hammer drills from the other mfg's cost between $400 and $500. I need to do some medium duty chisel work on my current project and don't have a power chisel. If i needed to use this every day for work than I could justify a Bosch or Makita or Hilti. But my use will only be occasional. I have a half inch hammer drill which only does rotary, gets hot and uses a standard dril bit chck. The SDS max will make any future concrete drilling much easier for me so For $150 I'm going to get it. thanks
To tell you the truth all brushed too I've ever bought comes with spare brushes. The drill setting is for the sds drill bits.
I do a lot of tuckpoint and mortar removal. I think I’ll give it a shot
I generally use a diamond blade grinder to remove the mortar joints so as not to damage brick. This might be okay in certain situations, especially if you are removing whole bricks for a rebuild. But, it will get heavy pretty quickly and accuracy might be an issue as you get tired.
I have some cracks in my driveway concrete (concrete is 4-5 inches thick total) where grass is growing. I need to widen the cracks to about 1-2 inches wide to be able to fill them with concrete. Is this powerful enough to do this job?
For that job you are going to want a nice straight line. You can use a grinder with a diamond blade or rent a wet concrete saw to cut that straight line on both sides. Then, if needed, you could use this tool to remove the waste in the middle. You may not even need the demo hammer, though.
Good video. I've got a different model Bauer rotary hammer, has worked great up until today. Used it for about an hour, took out the concrete I had been breaking up, came back to work some more, the unit is on because I can see the light showing it is getting power, but when I pull the trigger nothing happens. Thought I'd ask if you and maybe get lucky that you knew of a easy fix?
The fact that it was working normally until you stopped makes me lean toward the idea that the switch has an issue. Perhaps concrete dust or broken contacts. If you are sure you have power to the cord, then the possibilities include switch, wiring, worn brushes or burned out windings. In that situation I'll typically take apart the tool and examine the wiring by eye and with a meter. If you can get the parts it is easy to repair.
@@enduringcharm Thanks, I'll give it a shot.
I have a lot of bamboo in my backyard that I wanted to get rid off. I was wondering if I can use the chisel with hammer action to tear up the dense bamboo roots after cutting off the bamboos or should I use the reciprocating saw?
No, I don't think that would be such a good idea. The hammer action is more of a buzz, and the energy would just be lost on the vegetation. Bamboo is notoriously difficult to remove. If you don't get all of the roots, it will just grow back. A machine like a bobcat or a backhoe is really your best option. You'll pay for a day's use of the machine, but it will be thorough, easier on your back, and far more effective. Then use a chemical spray on any shoots that come up in the future.
I still think you're on the wrong track. From what I know about gardening, you need to get ALL of those roots out. These tools are just not designed for what you have in mind. They're meant to concentrate energy on something like concrete or rock, which doesn't move with the business end of the tool. The energy can be concentrated on a small, immovable area which produces the results. Using one of these tools on vegetation or dirt I think will just disperse the energy, accomplishing nothing. Plus, you still have to dig out and dispose of the roots!
Go to your local rental place and see if they offer a Bobcat MT-52. It's a small, walk-behind machine on tracks that can be fitted with various attachments. It's designed to be able to fit through typical fence gates--very compact. Probably a few hundred bucks a day to rent. You can use it to dig out the whole area, smooth it over, and be ready to plant something else.
Yes use a sawzall with a tree pruner blade they sell them at Walmart for $8.00 A large hedge trimmer would also work. Not a good job for the rotary hammer drill at all. They also make a gas powered machine called a brush mower.
I've got 2 of them , they work
The extra grease that comes in the little cup is not to put in the tool. You are supposed to use it on the chisel when you put it in the chuck.
Maybe you're right. The manual references greasing both the shank and the internal body, and that cup of crease could be used for either. The manual also notes that monthly you should clean out the old internal grease and install new grease! I don't know how the hell you clean out the old grease, but I doubt it matters. Basically you need to keep a lot of grease around, and that little cup isn't going to get you very far.
That is very useful information
@@enduringcharm thats where they make the money in the grease...but they dont sell it at my stores.
Thank the lord someone knew that. This guy a dork lol
Would it do a good job if I only need a spade to help me break dirt instead of using a shovel?
Are you asking about using this to break up dirt and rocks in a hole? I typically use a shale bar in that kind of situation, which can be hoisted high and brought down hard to break up rocks and and packed earth. A demo hammer doesn't have a long range of action at the business end, it only moves a small amount. You might find it useful to break up rock or packed gravel in some circumstances, but the speed of the operation might not be very fast. A larger demo hammer like you find street crews using to break up road surfaces has a longer stroke and more weight behind it.
Yes but how do you secure the bits for the tool? Mine just fall right back out?
They probably are not fully seated. Slide the sleeve at the base forward with one hand and hold it there. Insert the chisel with the other hand, and you may have to twist it a little one direction or the other until you feel it fully seat. Then you can let go of the sleeve to lock the chisel in place. One you've done it for the first time it will become obvious.
Your mileage may vary but for the money and the extended warranty Harbor freight tools are the best bang for your buck for the homeowner handyman.
Would one of these Harbor freight rotory hammers break up rocks with
that chisel bit? I have some rocks sticking out of my lawn thats killing
my mower blades and they are too big to remove by hand so I thought I
could break them up a bit to get them to be lower than the ground so I
wont hit them. one of HF's big demo hammers is too much $$ for what ill
use it for but one of the smaller sub $200.00 ones would b
You'd be better off using strategy rather than horsepower. Use a hammer drill with a small carbide tipped bit to drill a series of holes in a line into the rock. Then use a hand chisel with a sledge to break off the rock along that line. Alternatively, a hand grinder with a masonry cutting wheel could be used to draw the line.
@@enduringcharm I MAY HAVE TO USE THE 4" ANGLE GRINDER...LOL hf WAS COMPLETELY SOLD OUT OF ALL OF THESE EXCEPT THE BIG, $379.99 ONE! LOL opps, caps lock! Dang!!
How do you aline the sds chisel in the chuck so it is at 9 & 3 0clock position in front of the hammer?
Do you mean getting the flat part of the chisel at a perfect 90 degrees when the tool is upright? It may not be possible. The splines of the chisel align where they may, and on mine that is not 90 degrees either. I just adjust the floating handle to a comfortable position and go.
@@enduringcharm Thanks, I figured it out. They have another sliding chuck under the chisel chuck. When slid down you can rotate the tool at the desired angle.
I have used mine to chisel tile and hammer drill so for nocomplaints
I wonder how much your 1643-E-B model differs from the 1641E-B (which is at least $50 cheaper at $89.99). Yours is 10.5amp /13.7 lbs. The 41E unit is 10amp /11.9lbs so it seems like they've downgraded something by at least 1.8lbs (likely the motor) but they also made it cheaper in price. How has yours held up? Do you use it much? I'd probably only use one a few times a year so I think I'll be buying the cheaper unit. Right now I need some anchor holes in 4" concrete for my air compressor and don't want to waste $50 on a rental.
Do you really need a demo hammer or would a hammer drill be a better investment? I own both, but if you are mostly drilling holes in concrete or tile, maybe a hammer drill is what you really need. I use the demo hammer for tile removal and that's about it.
enduringcharm I have a hammer drill and I know its not going to punch four 3/8” holes to 4 or 5” deep. For a rotary hammer its a cakewalk. I also have a 16 x 28 room of VAT to chip up so its worth the $100. Im trying to hunt down a Bauer coupon.
Well, if you need it for other things you should get it. However, a good hammer drill will do the holes for you. I use my Milwaukee hammer drill to make 5/8 holes six inches deep in old concrete for wedge anchor bolts, for example.
@@enduringcharm The only hammer drill I own is a old RIDGID cordless. Luckily the newer lithium batteries still fit it (it's the old ni-cad style) but maybe I'll give it a try with that anyway. Couldn't hurt I suppose. But I may buy one at soon anyway to chip up the old vinyl asbestos tile. I did as much as I could stand with a hammer and scraper and still have half the room left. I was also considering using one of those vibrating blade saws (I own the cheap HF one).
Can you repeat on 5000 psi concrete instead of mortar ?
It will work on concrete--although obviously if you have large sections to do, like a whole slab or sidewalk, you'll want a bigger unit.
lots of times Harborfreight has best deal, but not in this case. I got my SDS rotary hammer on ebay for $52 including three drill bits, chisel bit and pointed bit and a jar of grease, even a pair of gloves thrown in! Works really great!
Bauer is their flagship brand.. They are NOT playing anymore
"you're not going to drill with this" how else do you put anchors into concrete?
I could have been more detailed with that statement. What I meant was, this wouldn't be your first choice for drilling tasks, such as installing anchors. A standard hammer drill is a better choice because that tool is more accurate and easier to fit in tight spots. Yes, this demo hammer can spin in circles, but it uses big goofy bits and the hammer action is not tight and controlled. A standard hammer drill is more controllable, uses more precise bits, and will make cleaner holes. In my work I typically go up to 5/8 or 3/4 concrete anchors for post hardware, etc. I have a Milwaukee plug-in hammer drill for those tasks and it makes short work of it. Plus, I can use bits down to 1/8 inch. This demo hammer you might use to drill big holes where accuracy is not important, but otherwise I would stick with a standard hammer drill.
Type of grease matters greatly. If you add a different kind of grease they could react with each other and begin to break down. Remove as much of the old grease as possible before you add a different kind.
Lithium based grease is the most common and if you mix two lithium based greases you're generally okay. If incompatible types are mixed you could end up with a hardened ball of the two or they could cause disintegration and break down to oils. Fortunately it's pretty easy to test. Take a finger swipe out of the tool, mix with a finger swipe of the new grease on something disposable, and wait to see if there is a poor reaction over a day or two.
I added Crisco to mine when I ran out of it a month ago, think I Brooke it.... Lol
Oh for heavens sake. Cut the drywall pull off in one sheet.
But I’ve had a Bosch SDS for years and when it broke the Bauer out performed very well and the Bauer is at harbor freight for $95 and if it lasts 3 years so what it beats $400 SDS
I thought it would die in a few hours. This thing is a beast on any interior tile demo. I have Milwaukee and Hilti. This is the best bang for the buck. We have 50 hours on this unit. It is the lightest demo unit at 11lbs. We use it for demo on tile only. We're very happy.
@6:40 - "you're not going to drill with this thing." Of course you are; it's a rotary hammer. The rotary action is intended to turn drill bits and evacuate debris from the hole you're drilling - just like a regular drill. It's even pictured on the packaging (in the video) with a drill bit in it.
Maybe I should have been clearer with my language. What I meant was that you aren't going to use this tool in place of a hammer drill to make small, precise holes for anchors or screws or that sort of thing. Yes, you might chock up a large pointed chisel and use the rotary action to drill a series of ragged holes in a concrete wall to break it apart or something along those lines. But because of the weight, the balance and the efficacy of the tool is not appropriate for precise drilling work. Even for larger holes, say for a 5/8 wedge anchor to hold down a footing connector, precision is required or else the anchor will just spin in the hole. That was my point--this is not a tool to replace your hammer drill. It's a tool meant for demolition.
We use ours to drill 2 inch holes through concrete and brick for sump pump discharges. And it works well, but if you're not careful, you'll break a wrist!
I love how everyone thinks "made in China" is a bad thing. MOST of what you buy is made elsewhere. I have a Hobart welder that everyone thinks is made in the USA. It's made in China and "assembled" in the USA. So are most Lincoln and Miller parts. That also goes for this tool, and most other high end electric tools. The parts are made in other countries to that company's specs. So made in China isn't always bad. You'll find junk made everywhere
I completely agree. The reality is that high-end manufacturing as well as lower quality work is done all over the globe, with China among the top producers. That means that while some Chinese made items may be junk, the high-quality items are also made in China and other parts of Asia. The expertise for quality manufacturing followed the factories, meaning that the expertise is offshore now. China produces what we ask of it.
Yep, my Milwaukee M18 tools are all China (and I've had issues with a couple of them after minimal use and required warranty replacement.) Also my Snap On scanner and Snap On impact is China, those have been good China stuff though. I've been happy with virtually everything from HF and I've been buying there for 15 years. I picked up the latest 11amp SDS Max and it's a great tool.
What is the type of grease this uses?
It's really not that critical. Any multi-purpose automotive grease would be fine.
Well done review - Thanks!
I got this and almost immediately the rotation-only part became virtually unusable. I cannot figure out WHY the ball slips in the clutch assembly in order to repair it. I've tried different lubrication viiscosities and it just slips and slips rather than drills. At my witts end.. Grrrrr!
Well, first, it's possible you just have a dud and Harbor Freight should take it back. I haven't had my unit that far apart, but I do know that many of these combination tools which do both hammer and rotational work can be ornery switching between the two. I have a DeWalt hammer drill with the same issue. It's probably not lubrication but rather something about the switch mechanism preventing it from fully engaging.
@@enduringcharm I FOUND the problem, and sadly on this two year old item there is nothing I can do except trash it. Turns out, the sliding chuck collar is molded in such a way that the 2 ball bearings that have to capture the shank are being allowed to move out from their needed position radially just a tiny bit too much, thus NOT capturing the shank but allowing it to spin in place with only minimal spinning torque stress on the drill bit. It is a very poor design which should be much more rigid in that area. We are only talking about a milimeter difference in working properly and not working at all. Sad to throw a hundred bucks' tool in the trash because of a few cents worth of fatal flaw. No replacement collars available and no workarounds that will allow the slide clutch to work. Regretfully $$, I have ordered a Makita model 2475 -- still ch9nese but hopefully more robust design.
Oh, I thought you had just bought the tool. Well, is it possible you could source a slightly larger ball bearing so it doesn't move in it's slot? Or could you put a couple welds in place and then grind them down to a tighter tolerance? My copy of the tool is still going strong after more bath demos than I can remember at this point. That is a problem now with all manufacturers, which is inconsistent quality.
@@enduringcharm That is a good idea - Thanks! The bearings are 7.2mm or about 1/4 inch. I think the local HW store may have. Worth a try for sure, so I'll leave the Makita in its pkg until I try that. Yeah, the drill is 2 years old but maybe has only an hour's use total, so both old and new.
If you strike out locally, I know you can buy loose ball bearings on Amazon for peanuts. I've purchased packages of them for bicycle wheels and steering heads.
Harbor freight is not garbage. Ok some of the stuff on the shelf is, but the power tools that I have bought from them, specifically Hercules cordless tools are top notch. I'm mostly DIY but I have given them heavy use and have not had any problems. Same thing with their Vulcan line of welders. You could spend three times the amount on a Miller MIG welder but why? Unless you weld all day long for a living it doesn't make sense.
Yes, they have made tremendous strides in quality in the past five years or so. You can still find junk in the store, but you can also find lots of decent quality stuff.
The hammer drill function is for drilling into concrete, not pointed chisels. Of course its used for drilling!
I guess I should have explained this in greater depth. My point is that this particular tool is not as suitable for precision drilling of holes in concrete or cement when compared to regular hammer drills. It requires the specialized SDS Max bits, for one thing, which come in larger sizes and are expensive. It's also a heavy, unwieldy tool in use. If you've ever tried to drill a precision hole in concrete you know that excessive movement or weight to one side will result in a widened hole. Controlling a heavy tool like this is one thing if you are positioned above the tool and drilling down. In real-world situations where space is cramped or you are drilling sideways, controlling this tool to create a uniform hole would be difficult at best.
So, when I assert that this tool is not for drilling, I mean that a regular hammer drill with less expensive bits and less weight to control will be a superior choice when you need precision holes for concrete anchors or more delicate work in tile or brick. If you just need to blow a giant hole through concrete and the exact size of the hole isn't that important, you could use this tool. For anything else, I'll stick with my regular hammer drill. As for the pointed chisels, they are certainly an option for drilling holes when exact dimensions aren't critical. That's how we used to make holes in concrete, and I still have pointed chisels and star drills in my masonry kit for working manually.
@@enduringcharm Thats very well reasoned. I had just finished drilling 34 3/4 holes for anchor bolts using a SDS-MAX rotary hammer so the comment really stood out. Im glad I used the big guy and not the lighter SDS-Plus RH's. Using the right tool for the right job is important. And you're right, lighter jobs (especially horizontal or vertical) would be a pain.
Tile held together with Elmer's glue
Ha! That's very typical of the "builder special" construction techniques I find in 80s and 90s era baths.
Has anyone tried this on vehicles to remove cv axles? At a shop it’s easy to use a pneumatic version but I don’t have an air compressor. Figured to buy this instead
Why do you need an impact hammer to remove axles? There are differences among vehicles, but generally you pull the brakes, remove a main nut or a bearing hub, and the axle comes right out. If you mean to use the hammer to bust apart steering or suspension joints, I think you'd find this tool awkward and heavy. Better to save up for a compressor.
enduringcharm you obviously don’t know what rust is. You see rust or corrosion as it is call sometimes is the occurrence of metals breaking down to its purest form. I’m sure rust doesn’t happen in your side of the world (sarcasm) but where I’m from it happens. Have ever taken a cv axle out before? Tell you what, search cv axles, you see the dimple on the outside of the axle is a point for an air hammer so you won’t destroy it with the use of hammers. No matter, I got this electric hammer regardless and I’ll update my results
Relax, gunner, I was just asking! I know all about rust since I live in NJ where there is salt on the roads from November to April. My automotive trade school was completed in the early 80s and I've been wrenching for almost four decades. Given the number of Jeeps we have in the family, I put more miles on my welder than I do the trucks! Nevertheless, I've never needed to use an impact hammer to get a CV style or any axle out. Maybe I'm just fortunate. Anyway, I still think you'd be happier with a compressor and an air hammer. It gives you the flexibility to use other tools and the more compact nature of an air hammer will allow you to use it for more than just one purpose. I reviewed one Harbor Freight compressor that has served my shop well for several years now, both for woodworking and automotive use.
Have you noticed that this exact model is not available anymore?
It's a shame because is a good size and weight for the power it has.
It is available still. I just looked on their website and I was in there last week. Website SKU is 63441.
There's a upgraded 11 amp model available
It's still available it's slightly different and updated. It's 11amp and it's a beast!
Would love to know how well it works on frame rivets
What kind of rivets are you hoping to remove? Typically a grinder with a cut-off wheel is a better choice for steel rivet heads.
@@enduringcharm like the kind of rivets that hold brackets to the frame of a car
Oh, yeah, you're barking up the wrong tree. Use a 4 inch grinder with a cut off wheel to slice off the heads of the rivets and then a punch to drive out the shaft. Or, you can drill out the shaft if it's in a tough spot for a grinder. This demo hammer would just bounce off the steel and give you a headache.
@@enduringcharm which one would you recommend?
Literally any name-brand grinder would be fine for that application, you don't need to spend a lot. Whatever is available locally at your home center. Get some decent metal-cutting (thin) cut-off discs for the grinder. If you are experienced with grinders you can remove the guard and fit a larger disc on there, but if you are new to this then stay with the four inch size and keep the guard on there. Slow is fast when grinding, so use two hands to hold the grinder steady and slowly push the disc into the edge of the rivet. Wear eye protection and watch where the sparks go.
this tool brakes trough 4 inch concrete like butter, it is overkill for removing tile
It's the base model for SDS max chisels, so it's the lightest and least powerful of the line. I didn't find it to be overkill, and if you are removing tile from concrete it might even struggle a bit. In the video I happened to be removing tile from plywood, which is the easiest of substrates. Even so, it took awhile. I found it to be a pretty good compromise between weight and power.
I agree with the above comment wholeheartedly. We have over 50hrs on one of these units.
Best place to get special tools you only need one time. Paper weights should be cheap.
I get this argument a lot. While it is true there are some items at Harbor Freight which are of poor quality, it is also true that the company has been steadily increasing the quality of tools for sale over the past few years. Hand tools, such as wrenches, sockets, hammers, etc. were always of decent quality. The electric powered tools used to be awful, but they have introduced new house brands with an emphasis on better quality and it shows. Some of their compressors are actually quite good and better than competitors. I've been buying my PPE there since the pandemic since it's the only reasonably priced local source for gloves, masks, goggles, knee pads, etc. So I give HF credit. It's the only retailer by me specializing in tools, and a valuable source when Home Cheapo or Lowes can't offer what I need.
Hola vivo en CUBA y estando en Miami compré este martillo rompedor, y e trabajado duro en CUBA con él y a salido fuerte, pero tengo un problema como se que tipo de escobillas de carbón usa, para poder conseguirlo con mis amigos en Florida, si pudiera ayudarme agradecido
¿Ya gastaste los cepillos? Todo lo que puedo sugerir es que llame al fabricante con su número de modelo, y ellos pueden buscar los cepillos apropiados para usted. El número de teléfono es: 1-800-444-3353.
Cheka si traen una nunerasion y con esonlos consigues
Luis Manuel Laborda garces que tal te salió la herramienta!? La has usado en concreto!? Perfora columnas!?
For removing tiles off dry walls, i think a multi oscillating tool is more suitable. It takes a little longer, but a lot easier to use, a lot easier on your body and your joints.
Mine randomly turned off mid job and now old works on max speed, which is strange...
The electrical on these tools isn't that complicated, you may find a minor issue that can be repaired if you take it apart. Sometimes its just a matter of dirt on a trigger contact.
@@enduringcharm For the average consumer, taking a power tool apart is complicated...For a tool such as this to shut off mid job (without overheating etc) is un acceptable..
I don't disagree, I was just trying to point out that all may not be lost for your particular tool.
I may have been dropped on my head a few times as a kid, but I’m reasonably sure that’s a rotary hammer
It has two settings--one rotary and one just hammer action. If you are referencing my comment about drilling, I meant that you wouldn't use this for precision drilling. Yes, you could use the rotary action for rough holes in masonry. But, if I need a precision hole for an anchor or a tapcon screw this is not the tool I'll want to use.
why do you say -your'e not going to drill with this tool?
This tool is not really a competitor for a standard hammer drill. It's heavy and unwieldy in comparison, and it doesn't have a drill chuck. I think you can actually buy some large size carbide drills with the SDS Max shank (like 1/2 inch or bigger) but the rotary action is slow and accuracy would not be very good. For any kind of hole drilling in masonry I would reach for my regular hammer drill that has a chuck and the ergonomics to promote more accurate drilling. The rotary action on this demo hammer is good for when you have a pointed chisel and you want to hammer a hole, rather than drill one, if that makes sense. For example, you may want to chisel a series of holes to promote a break along a line. This tool would be fine for that, using an SD MAX pointed chisel. But, if you wanted to drill a small, accurate hole for a Tapcon style masonry screw, this tool doesn't have a chuck for a smaller bit and it would make a mess of it anyway. Even if you were drilling for something like a 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch anchor bolt in a foundation, a regular hammer drill would accept a standard bit and provide greater control and accuracy. Basically, precision holes suit a regular hammer drill and this tool is best for banging away at material where precision and fine control are not paramount.
Its surprisingly fast drilling. I put it through about 6 inches of rock in about 2 minutes with a 3/4 inch bit while the hammer drill could only do 1/2 in about 5 minutes with a 5/8 bit.
Enduringcharm I highly suggest you try using the Rotary Hammer settting while drillling a large diameter hole, ie 7/8" or larger. The Rotary Hammer action with a 4-Flute carbide tipped SDS-MAX tool bit will surprise you on how acurrately it will drill a hole in a quater ofbthe time a standard hammer drill would with a 1/2" drill chuck. You will yield a percision round hole with a Rotary hammer drill (ie for a Wedjit 5/8-11 concrete anchor persay for a shop car hoist) vs a standard hammer drill with a 2-flute spadebtype drill bit with a 1/2" shank. The standard hammer drill (non Rotary action) will take 4x times longer per hole and the bit is hands down way less self centering and you will end up with a multiple egg shaped hole where the drill walked all over the place while drilling 3" to 4" deep or more. Your anchor at that point may not have enough gripping force to safely to its intended job at that point, at least speaking to put in a automotive hoist. In my case a was putting in a portable hoist so I needed to use a Wedjet brand anchor, where I could unbolt the portable hoist (Maxjax, maxjaxusa.com) to move it to a storage spot when not in use.
So my point is, I had your same initial thought, and then after researching Rotary hammer drill found out how amazing and what a game changer they are to use for drilling through solid concrete.
Now back to your commit about drilling a small wall anchor hole in concrete or a block wall, yes for 1/2" and under, a normal hammer drill would do the job just fine. It the large hole stuff that those drills do not do well at.
That rotary hammer along with the 4 flute style sds max drill bits will turn the chips into dust vs tinny chips and the drill ends up drill so such a fast ROUND hole you will be floored woundering why you didn't try one years ago. To sum it up, the Rotary hammer function is a game changer and worth every penny.
Now I like to see a video with a head to head on how well the Bauer brand can compair to the industy lead of the Makita line. For the pro, buy the Makita every day, I'm interested for the DIY guy trying to say a few bucks wondering if he should rent the tool from the local H.D. or buy a bauer one from HF if using it more than 2 times. If planning on using it twice, it equally the tool rental price for one time from H.D.....? If you only intend to use the tool one time and never again, rent it from the H.D. and they include a few tool bits with the rental price for no charge. That one less cost you don't have to add in. Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps!
You said it, this is just another garbage from HT. I had one that worked for a few minutes as a hammer and then no hammering any more. A few more tries and it just drilling but no hammering.
That's too bad. mine is still going strong after many demo jobs. You might take a look at the selector switch to make sure it is working and that you have firmly switched it to the position you need.
It's meant to drill also ...hence the pic on the packaging . It's a roto hammer / concrete drill... just saying. And they are great for demo of tile. You can hold the tool all the way to one side to get better angle on your work surface. Good rule of thumb is never turn to drill mode and run any demo bits. Dangerous and pointless even with a pointed chisel. Pointless in fact.
See my reply to a previous poster on this subject. I didn't mean to imply that it doesn't have a drill mode, only that for any kind of precision drilling you'd be better off with a regular hammer drill.
I'm a professional contractor. I only buy the best brands and well reviewed tools, Dewalt, Hitachi etc. My dad gave me a harbor freight brand reciprocating saw about 9 years ago. And by God, it's been used and abused damn near every day since then, including the time it took a fall off a 3 story House onto a concrete patio. It shows no sign of stopping and has power and control just like the best of them. It changed the way I think about harbor freight tools that's for sure. Oh and a brand new one costs 24.00 right now, I think I'll get another when (if) this one ever craps out.
Generally speaking I stay away from electrical hand tools at HF, but your point is well taken. Quality has been steadily improving and even though many HF tools are entry level or low-end quality, that doesn't mean they aren't worthy. And, some of the tools are actually pretty good.
@@enduringcharm bauer definitely isnt low end.. Chicago electric is low end.. Hercules is mid tier.. And bauer is actually their competition for Dewalt and Milwaukee.. I'd say they (Bauer) are at least Mid tier overall
Who ever did tile in bathroom shit came right up just like every thing else bad job.
Each era had it's methods. Before backerboard existed tile was routinely applied directly to plywood or to drywall. It doesn't have a good track record!
that floor had no cement board? lol
Different time periods had different construction techniques. Baths built in the late 70s and into the 1990s typically had tile put down right over plywood. It was after that period that you start to see cement backerboard. Before that time period you would typically see a "mud" job with tile on top of a mortar mix.
My bauer just died only used twice
When you say it died--is it something simple that can be repaired? A trigger connection or loose wire internally, perhaps?
I dont know what happened. I was using it and it just died... I took the carbon brushes out and replaced them... Nothing. I'll call the technical support Monday... No warning just died
I have no idea what you’re talking about laughing saying that it won’t drill. I drilled through much cement with this thing and I chiseled cement with it. It’s a great tool. Don’t be such a snob. You don’t always have to buy a brand-name and spend a bunch of money to get a good tool.
Wow, maybe cut back on the coffee? I wasn't being a snob--I still use the tool in my business, actually. When I said you wouldn't use this tool to drill, I meant you wouldn't use it to do precision drilling, such as anchors through tile for a bathroom shower door or even for concrete anchors to set deck post bases. For those sorts of things you should be using a smaller hammer drill, because the holes need to be properly sized to keep anchors in place and because excessive vibration will break surrounding finishes. For less precision drilling this HF tool has a rotary option and you could use it for opening up large holes through a foundation for through-pipes, for example.
Not a real test. You know that tile over another material is never the same as tile with thinset on prepped concrete. Old polymer added thinset on outside concrete might be fair.
That bath remodel happened to be what I was working on at the time. I've since used this tool on many other bath remodels. The most difficult tile installation to remove is actually not tile over concrete. I'll take that any day--the concrete holds firm and the tile easily chips off either by hand or with a tool like this. It's tile over a mud job which is the most difficult to remove. The mortar is laid over metal mesh which has been stapled to plywood and you need to remove the tile, the mortar and the mesh. For many years I did this painstakingly by hand. I even have a video on it! Now I use this demo hammer, which has been a lifesaver. You can reach down to the layer of mesh and attack it there. The job is still brutal and exhausting, but more tolerable. A few weeks ago I again used this tool in the video for a large master bath remodel. It took an entire day to remove the mud job tile floor down to the plywood subfloor.
I just used my Bauer rotary hammer today to break up 4 foot tall block wall entrance support pillars made of cinderblocks and fortified with rebar and concrete poured down into the cavities and it tore right into them and I was done in no time. Go ahead and look for trick photography and what ever other stupid reasons to discredit this video and the tool, but you'd be wrong. The thing in a g'damn monster.
this tool is crap i've bought and returned two both died i kept the third one just to see what was breaking turns out the trigger over heats and locks up in the open position and cant be used. all three died with in a month. might be ok if i could buy a new trigger but I cant I'm a professional maybe its ok for a home owner.
Wow, that's too bad. I've had a good experience with this tool so far. In fact, I just loaded it up into my trailer for another bath demo. I haven't kept track of how many demos I've done with it, but it must be over a dozen at this point. In fact, it's saved my butt a couple of times when there was a tough floor to take up. Maybe they are having a temporary manufacturing issue with the trigger?
i've had luck with most of their stuff as well but three in a row!
I've been to three of these machines and I will no longer do it again... On the business end, just buy a better brand!
Really? Mine is still going strong, and I've put it through some pretty good abuse now. Really it paid for itself on the first couple of jobs, so if it did fail I wouldn't even care now. For me it was still a good purchase.
Gave you a thumbs down because in the beginning you said it's garbage, not everyone can afford rigid Makita DeWalt or Hitachi tools...the tools they sell are not overpriced and the last a reasonable amount of time considering the cost.
Actually, that's not what I said. I stated that I generally stay away from the electrical Harbor Freight tools because they are made to be cheap. They make a lot of entry-level electrical tools of poor design that I wouldn't recommend to anybody regardless of budget. I then went on to note that Chinese made tools are becoming better and I gave this particular tool a positive review. I'll also mention now that in the past few months Harbor Freight has introduced lines of electrical tools intended to be of better quality, and which also cost more. In my reviews of tools I attempt to tell the whole story, not just act like a fan-boy. I'm just as hard on name-brand tools when I review those.
The tools are not over priced, but the batteries are. I tend to buy used batteries and replace the cells cheap myself
Wall Tile isn't hard to pop off. You really don't know what you're talking about. Try doing floor tile with that thing. Completely different dance.
It's a shame you didn't actually watch the video before popping off a message. Starting at 9:31 is the floor tile demonstration. And as far as knowing what I'm talking about, I've owned a remodeling business for 15 years and I've long since lost count of how many bath and kitchen remodels I've done. I didn't see your company name in your message, but presumably you have experience equal to mine in order to make such quick judgements? Maybe instead of an insult, you could have just asked nicely how the tool worked on a floor and I would have explained how it has worked in the year and a half since I made this video, which is at least a half dozen bath remodels.