Agree. Done a lot of “misc things to secure, but that device has a great purpose. always like to learn something new and am replacing mine in house later. (if wife lets me, not suppose to be doing this stuff. ). but finding people to come by and work. not happening either ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
After watching you pull that right out, I'm thinking a good yank on a garden hose could have at least loosened it up tremendously. My personal preference on my own stuff would be to try and put another larger piece of metal for the hose bib to bolt to . Then more serious fasteners to the brick.
I like to put a dedicated shut off on the inside as well, so if the bib breaks, or leaks it can be shut off individually without turning off the whole house, and it can be isolated in the winter as well.
Correct, you can never have too many shut offs. Also, I like to install ball valves with the handles pointing in the flow direction when on if possible.
Word of advice , use a ball valve like the one shown in the picture, If you use a gate valve it runs a risk of having a small piece of dirt or rust from your water lines getting trapped below the gate and preventing the gate from completely closing, causing a small amount of water to seep by, this then freezes within the valve and rupturing, once it warms up a little above freezing, you now have water dripping and or spraying, then refreezing once the temp drops again….you maybe even at work while this is happening…… don’t ask how I know. Lol got to love Canadian winters.
spray foam the hole for energy loss. heat transfer is the name of the game in cold or hot climates. it was 101 yesterday and 6 months ago it was 26 for a high. Got to love Oregon.
If you do that, you'll hate yourself when it's time to replace it. That spray foam is one hell of a glue, especially in a small space like that surrounding a pipe.
Hey, The first bib was just fine. You had Uponor with Uponor memory ring in a unconditioned crawl space the pex/uponor will not freeze ,crack, and leak. The frost proof bib with the copper will freeze split and leak if the hose is not detached from the bib. The adhesive on the first bib was just fine for anchoring. General Contractor 45 years
If you got some dry grout that matches you can dust some onto your sealant before it dries. Depending on what product you use it can turn out real nice. You can also mask off around the bib, caulk it, then removed the tape for prettier finished look. I had to do all that with a window install in a brick wall, It would work here as well.
I'm getting ready to do this job and you taught me 2 things I didn't know and that is wrapping the pipe and the angle adapter, pretty cool and I'll be doing this also , New Subscriber, you got me Thank you 😊.
You had the Channelock pliers on the wrong way and most mechanics would think you had AKA POS nut rounder adjustable wrench on backwards. Worked with top notch millwright mechanics who never used adjustable wrenches. I always use flare nut wrenches on fragile brass plumbing hex nuts.
The channel-locks were right. I use the adjustable wrench wrong just to see what people will say these days. Lol. Great call on the flare but wrench’s.
Dude , I am a handyman . Have worked in the trades since mid 70's . I have some comments. I've done some frost free hose bib repair /replacements lately kind of grouped together more than the usual interval I have experienced . The bracket you used on the inside is cool . I haven;t seen them before .But inside is where the the spiders live and is usually dirty , buggy .I have found a gadget that basically looks like a yoke that fits over the faucet on the outside and then can be screwed to the wall to hold the bib in place .My experienced is that the hole thru the wall is too big so there isn't much left to try to screw to thru the holes in the hose bib itself. So that problem is solved and I did not have to go inside with the spiders and try to reach and fasten the bib to something . an important issue is that the hose bib be slanted downward to the outside so that when it is turned off the water will actually drain out and not be trapped where it can freeze .Another important issue is that there is a seal made around the bib housing on the outside to keep the cold air from having a straight shot into the wall and risk freezing the water that way . Further it seems logical to install the longest hose bib assembly that will fit without running into something on the inside . the farther the point where the water is going to be shut off inside away from the cold the better . And don't insulate around it to keep the heat from the inside from getting to the critical point . But maybe the most important issue of all is to have the homeowner remember to remove the hose from the outside if freezing temperatures are expected . Otherwise everything else is moot !!! But I think I have found a decent solution for that issue ,as follows . I have found a screw on gadget that looks similar to a screw on vacuum breaker . but it works a little differently than a standard vacuum breaker . You can leave your hose attached to the hose bib . But when you turn off the hose bib you have to remember [ make a habit } of releasing most of the pressure from the hose by opening what ever you may have attached to the other end . Typically I think that would be some sort of nozzell. .So once the water is turned off with the knob of the hose bib and the most of the pressure is released from the hose , the gadget i am talking about will open internally and allow the water that is up inside the hose bib to drain out on the ground , thus preventing the hose bib tube or the built in vacuum breaker that is typically located on top of the bib behind the handle or knob from freezing and needing to be replaced . But hoses that contract when they are turned off if they are too long or too expansive can defeat the gadget . But hey , this little inexpensive gadget has the potential of saving some substantial money . My experience is that most people have a life and are not too tuned to the need to remove their hose when freezing temps are coming , which is job security for us handymen and plumbers . I'm sure someone can invent a hose bib with a type of tube that will not freeze and split when frozen , but that would really take the fun out of all this, now wouldn't it ?
Thanks for the video! I would recommend spraying foam crack filler/insulation into the hole to provide additional thermal protection. a block of wood behind the upper ear would make that bracket even stronger.
I have those freeze proof spigots at my house, and they need anchoring. I didn't even know they existed. Thanks for that! One thing, I think I would have considered putting in a small daughter board where the pipe goes through the wall for that second long screw to keep pressure straight. :-) Awesome video.
Plumber here, gotta say it's refreshing to see somebody on youtube giving good plumbing advice. I usually get entertainment from watching "plumbers" make youtube DIY videos and they do almost everything wrong, or just give a few really bad tips. props to you
On the bib mounting, I try to use a flat piece of metal on the wood so the screw threads don’t dig in, they tend to dig in over time and loosen how tight it’s being held, I also in this case would have put a backer block at the top, keep up the good work, from one fix it guy to another
Ive been plumbing for 30 yrs, in Oregon. We have tuff laws. Been using wirsbo or pex for years and love it. I stopped using female pex adapters a few years ago, because the brass is to soft and they split to easy. Ive replace many of them. Happy plumbing.
*After you open your water the rest of the way (fully open main valve/line) consider crawling under the house one last time to check the connection isn't leaking, as unlikely as that is with PEX, it's still a good habit to be in.*
One tip - mark “down” on the bottom of the hose bib (or whatever you’re installing…vent hoods, electrical devices, etc) with a sharpie so you don’t have to crawl in and out of the crawlspace to check alignment when working solo.
No its not... drill masonry use tapcons .. now it wont twist loosening caulk and causing water intrusion.. Fill hole with 2000lb cement with a dowl.. Or go thru masonry to rim joist.. Caulking will fail..
Before inserting the pipe into the wall use a marker and mark the inside bottom of the pipe for orientation so the spigot faces the right way so you don't have to keep running inside and out of the house.
My bibs on my house have individual shut offs, so I shut then off in the fall and open the valve so no water stands in them, this keeps them from freezing, I did leave a 75 foot garden hose hooked up once years ago and the threaded end basically blew up
Not all bibs. There are old pressure breaking bibs that actually drain from the fixture whenever the water is shut off. They also release pressure in the hose if there is any.
Love that anchor. Wished I'd known about them in the early 2000's when I put my outdoor faucetts behind some valves in the basement. I absolutely hated how the bibs anchored into the stucco.
Awesome part! I used to use a chunk of uni-strut and attach the bibb with a 3/4 copper tube size pipe clamp to the strut. These look easier! As a Journeyman plumber,you did an awesome job!💪💪
Love the indoor pipe anchor. It's in my Amazon cart now. going to check my clearance and make sure it will fit the space before I order it. There's nothing at all to attach this bib to the siding. Drywall screws were attached when the last guy fixed the outside bib and the screws have pulled out and left big gaping holes in the siding . Not to mention that they cut the copper pipe about an inch too long so it doesn't even set flush with the house. I am not redoing the whole pipe. That's above my pay grade.
The permanent fix is The Hose Bib Buddy! Available at Lowe's or on Amazon! You don't need to crawl under the house, you don't need to remove your lines or spigot! It takes less than ten minutes, it's a permanent fix, and it looks great! Hose Bib Buddy! Made in Monroe North Carolina by Americans! And it's not expensive!
@@ThatFixItGuy I have but never performed a long term check. Guess a dark color would hold up longer to the damaging UV rays from the sun. Used hundred of tubes of silicone indoors while working at a slaughterhouse & large candy plant that had nightly high pressure wash downs and silicone caulk held up good. In machine & tool & die shops that had a lot of oil mist & flying metal chips would apply silver color silicone over holes in top & sides of 1900 boxes ( 4 by 4" ) and other electrical enclosures to keep inside clean.
Always amazing to see how other countries install these , in germany its quite different and thank god i use copper for these installations and not pvc pipes
The pipe is crosslinked polyethylene (PEX), not PVC. I would find it hard to believe it isn't becoming popular or already popular there as copper is very expensive both for materials and installation. It also basically lasts forever, is freeze damage resistant, and uses fewer fittings for lower cost, better flow rates, and easier installation. Also there is no fire hazard installing it, it doesn't get hard water scale on the inside, and never corrodes thru those in odd locations where the water slowly destroys copper. The pipe used here is about $130US/91m, the same in copper is $1280 and you will need to use more fittings as it is rigid, coating even more. It has been in use for over 30 years and still proves to be a great product. The biggest issues have been manufacturers who made the brass fittings out of sub-standard materials and certain locations with water that dissolved them creating leaks. There are also plastic fittings now that have the advantage of being completely corrosion resistant, but I don't trust them yet so only use them where they are easily replaced.
I like that anchor, best practice would be add a shut off so the hose bibb can be services with out the main being shut off. I use an oversized plate for this situation.
I had a heart surgery procedure back this past November. They had more machines, tools, fittings and apparatices than non-- doctors can imagine. It's the same with plumbers these days. Docs have protocals -- plumbers (and electricans) have codes they have to work by. This guy has my respect for knowing what is available to do a "code" job. I recently had to replace a toilet in my house. I was my own plumber on that one. I see why these guys have to charge north of 145$$$ an hour.
@@ThatFixItGuy So now I find that my wood shop toilet can stand to be replaced. I'm sure it was a used toilet to start with. It has no name on it. It has a ring around the water line in the bottom of the bowl that my wife is constantly bugging me to clean regularly. So for 45 bucks I can get a Kohler toilet used, put it in myself. I built my shop in '03. If it has a wax ring, I will replace the seal with a Fluidmaster blue rubber seal.
@@robertshorthill6836 Buying a used toilet is a recipe for disaster. Buy a cadet 3 American Standard. They're cheap,easily installed, replacement parts are easy to find,and they are famous for no problems. As a Journeyman plumber, that's my recommendation.
I love this video. I would add one thing-once the valve is mounted, your ability to get the hole sealed is limited. Why not wad up some Duct Seal (Ideal 31-601) and mold it around the stem before sliding the stem into the wall? Then as you tighten it will squeeze into the cavity and close it off to air and weather penetration.
i just anchor a piece of presure treated 2x to the brick with tapcons .paint the board first with with a paint that matches the brick .then screw the bib to the board with extrrior screws
I had a home that was secured with silicone similar to your adhesive. When I sold it, the inspector pointed it out and I had to go put two screws in it to 'secure it'. It was fine for years though.
Interesting. I'm old school plumbing, so this is a tough one for me. I'm not saying I wouldn't do this for someone who needed an outside bibb and in fact I'd probably be happy to get it done and get the hell outta there! But I'd struggle to put this in my house just in case someone might see it and consider me less than a pro. So it's easy and I like that! But for someone else, not for my house. What is it that I don't like? Well, I don't like how the pex reduces the inside diameter, even though it's probably not going to mean much. I am too old to change and I just never cozied up to plastic pipe, not even PVC for fresh water use (Ok with drainage). I guess it's just because I've been soldering for 50 years, I understand there are benefits to pex (price, durability, ease of use, etc) but to me piping is artwork and plastic just looks blah to me. With all that said, I think you did well and gave some nice tips here. The only thing I'd recommend for this particular install is to anchor those 2 brass screws into a solid base (joist) so that when he-man goes a twisting on your faucet, the torque doesn't get transmitted through and damage something.
That pipe and fitting looks like Uponor. Uponor (Pex A)has same inside diameter as the size number indicates. If it were Pex B I would go to 3/4" piping for my hose bibbs. 3/4 per is a smudge bigger than 1/2 inside diameter.
Get a metal electric rough-in box from a throw away pile. Knock those nickle size plugs out of it. Use those between the screws from the anchor and the house wood.
I’ve ran into like two shutoffs to hose bibs in 20+ years. I think it depends on where your at. That being said as a service guy I would love a valve at every fixture.
Thanks for sharing your tips/ recommendations for securing the hose bib. One suggestion: since only one "leg" of the anchor rests on the cinder block for support, I would have used a block of wood under the opposite "leg" to rest against the wood plate to provide support and thus provide a balanced hold on the bib pipe as you secure it in place. Again, thanks.
Relying on adhesive to hold a fitting in place is a bodge job. If the right size hole had been formed in the wall in the 1st place perhaps the tap could have been screwed back to the wall using the two screw holes provided. Or make a metal plate to suit the front bracket.
I like that hose bib anchor maybe flush it out with some 2x material on the framing. FYI there is a dimple on the knurling that indicates the top of the spigot, in other words when the spigot is straight up and down the dimple is on the top.
@@ThatFixItGuy I packed the hyd concrete in, then put the screws in. If the screw holes were hollowed out, I packed them as well, then put in the screws.
I agree. Both are thread lubricants and our design to fill in the gap so the incline plane. No need for both just, overkill. Your intent to have more tubing in the basement is correct for that rare instance where you have an issue of a leak.
Yes one or the other should be fine, most of the time. But those of us who make up threaded joints every day have learned methods that work everytime, no matter what, that's why we use both. Once in a while you'll have a drip if you just use tape, since I started taping and doping, I've never had a drip, so it saves time on having to remake a joint.
I have never had a leak on a 1/2” pipe thread with just one or the other. Tape or dope does not seal the thread. It’s the tapered threads that seal the joint. The tape or dope is to make it slick for a tighter joint with less effort.
I used an electrical ground clamp, and tapcons to refasten it securely to the wall. This way if I have to replace it. I do not have to bust the glue or grout off.
That original non-frost free hose bibb looked pretty new. Since you have flexible pex inside. You could have cut like 8" to a foot off the inside pex. Strap it up horizontally maybe 2" higher than the hole going outside. Installed a regular ball valve. then drop back down the 2" after the Ball valve before going outside. No bleeder needed since you can shut the inner ball valve off in the winter and open exterior valve. It would never freeze unless you leave the hose connected all winter. But that would burst a frost free as well. That frost free hose spigot should have a backflow prevention disc on it as well. The one you used wouldn't pass inspection in PA
I would put the sealer between the outside bracket and the wall before securing the tighter bracket on the inside of the building to give the best seal possible.
I stand corrected. He only had the adjustable wrench turned the wrong direction. I took a class in college teaching the proper use of tools. Who would have ever imagined?!
I would love to take a class like that. I've got to find fun in these things. One of my early videos is using an adjustable jaw wrench correctly. It is a big pet peeve for people.
Please choose your new silcock carefully, this one would not pass inspection because it is not an anti-siphon style. Also, your new silcock should include the angled spacer and if it doesn't it's because it fell off on the store shelf and you overlooked it. If you upgrade to a quarter turn style valve instead of a rubber hose bib style valve you will have to enlarge the hole in the wall a small amount so be prepared for that by having either a long wood boring bit or a big masonry bit. The construction adhesive is not a durable solution in cold weather climates. I wish sillcock manufacturers would create a little wider mounting ear to screw directly to the wall. There is available on the market somewhere, a bigger angled backing plate that does have a wider mounting point but I have not seen it at any of the do-it-yourself stores nor have I ever seen the silcock mounting bracket he put in the basement.
Why has the bib/tap got two holes in it?. Are they for screws? For fixing? Not some crap clamp and silicone sealer.? Thanks for the Teflon/ ptfe tape trick. Love from 🇬🇧
The holes that the beveled washer seem to be a place rain water could seep into the hole. I don't see it being a big deal but might have been a good idea to dab the adhesive over them to be sure since it was there.
GREAT Fix/Video !! Subscribed ! Question: My new screwed on (threaded) replacement copper hose bib leaks (used ~ 8 wraps of Teflon, copper thread to copper thread) when in correct position (facing down) but not when tightened all the way, another quarter turn. But then it’s draining sideways. Your suggestion ? Maybe try pipe dope instead of teflon? , and back it off the 1/4 turn from full tight, so it’s draining/facing downward in the correct position ? Then let the dope dry? Thx from Phx !! Cheers. ( ( P.S. - bib is on a standing, vertical, water pipe coming straight up from the ground. ))
Buy some thicker Teflon. Blue monster makes some that is great. Gives yourself like 5 wraps and tighten to the desired location. Don’t over tighten to where you have to back it off, but get it to where you need it. If you are still struggling with it leaking and nothing will work you may want to change the fitting the hose bib screws into.
I just can't believe that no one has invented a better hose bib. The outer flange on the bib needs to larger to cover the hole and allow for better fastener placement.
I was going through all the comments from these so called plumbers and none mentioned the backwards channel locks. That's 1 of the 1st things you're taught is how to use a wrench
First thank you Greg. You suggested looking into these anchors I believe. That gap is not that big and that stuff is messy. If the whole was bigger I would have put some foam in there.
Thanks Brian , sweet repair job the anchor really holds it in place. Are you guys still having extremely hot weather? Take care and have a great weekend 👍🇺🇸
@@ThatFixItGuy Yes Brian it’s pretty bad for some of the folks in the Eastern part of Ky lot of flood damage and the last I heard 25 people had died from it and there maybe more. But here where I live today the temperature has been in the low 80’s nice for a change it had been hot and humid and dry but this past week we have got a lot of rain and we are going to get more starting tomorrow. The weather is crazy it’s making a believer out of me about the climate change they keep talking about.
I like to install the hose bibb with about a 30 degree turn to the right (or left for a left handed homeowner) so that it is much easier to take the hose on and off. The bibb will still drain out just fine. I also prefer to use a better bibb such as a Woodford Model 19 instead of a Woodford 17, because they are more resistant to freezing. (Or any other brand anti-burst bibb.) The lion's share of the cost to my customer is my time and transport, not the bibb itself. The extra $20 to the consumer for the better part is the best $20 they will ever spend. I also like to drill more holes and add another bibb or two for people when I work on one, I can do the extra ones for less because I am already there and there is no travel cost. This way the customer can have less hose dragging because they then have bibbs on more sides of the house.
Nice job on that frost free hose bib. (I didn't know about such anchors before. I may have screwed a piece of wood between the rim joist/band joist and the upper screw location and screwed bracket to said piece). But you did a marvelous job on that. I loved the tape ideas. (Wish I could hire you to install some new shut offs (ball/quarter turn, of course). Thank you for making & posting this video. God[Bible] Bless.
Thank you. I am actually going to put a couple nail plates down where the anchors mount to the wood. Was an after though to me and my first time using one. I love subscriber feedback. Thank you for your comments. God bless you as well!
@@ThatFixItGuy Excellent. Your idea will give the bib good diagonal rigidity. Thank you for making & posting this video. Pls keep up your good work. God[Bible] Bless.
Yeah I get that. Not too much of a gap there. I think I will seal the other side the next time I’m over there. Turns out the other hose bib is the same way.
I couldn’t see that well but the angled washer behind the flange looked to be wider on the top. Should it have been wider on bottom? Trying to creat the slope?
QUESTION: I BOUGHT MY HOME A LONG TIME AGO, IT HAD AN OUTSIDE FAUCET BUT IT WAS CUT OFF ON THE INSIDE OR THE HOUSE AND CAPPED OFF. WHY WOULD THEY DO THAT. I'D REALLY LIKE TO HAVE IT WORKING. THANKS, GREAT JOB. ALSO WHAT IS THAT STUFF IN THE CAN CALLED, THAT YOU PUT OVER THE TEFLON AND IS IT LEAD FREE? THANKS
The stuff in the can is pipe dope called megalock there is a link in the description box for some. I bet they did not want to pay to have it replaced. Went with cheaper option. And it is lead free.
@@ThatFixItGuy THANK YOU, I DO HAVE PIPE COMPOUND, TOLD IT WAS THE SAME THING? I DON'T KNOW. TIS WHAT MENARD'S TOLD ME ANYWAY. IS THAT TRUE? YES I FIGURED, SURE WOULD LIKE TO HAVE IT FIXED, BUT NOT ON THE HIGH PRIORITY LIST LOL. COULD IT BE BUSTED BELOW GROUND, THIS IS COPPED PIPING I THINK, AS COPPER PIPE WAS USED IN MY HOME PER THE DRAINAGE AND WASHING MACHINE PIPES AND WATER HEATER. ITS ALSO BEEN CUT AT THE HALLWAY FROM THE WATER PIPE TURN ON. THANKS
It also is helpful to use American made sillcocks like Woodford. Quit installing those cheap Chinese ones. Also, sweat a 1/2" inside x pex a coupling. It's smaller and not as expensive.
Nice! that anchor looks like it made the job pretty easy!
Yeah it totally made it easier. It make a very solid repair. Thank you.
Agree. Done a lot of “misc things to secure, but that device has a great purpose.
always like to learn something new and am replacing mine in house later. (if wife lets me, not suppose to be doing this stuff. ). but finding people to come by and work. not happening either ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
After watching you pull that right out, I'm thinking a good yank on a garden hose could have at least loosened it up tremendously.
My personal preference on my own stuff would be to try and put another larger piece of metal for the hose bib to bolt to . Then more serious fasteners to the brick.
I like to put a dedicated shut off on the inside as well, so if the bib breaks, or leaks it can be shut off individually without turning off the whole house, and it can be isolated in the winter as well.
Correct, you can never have too many shut offs. Also, I like to install ball valves with the handles pointing in the flow direction when on if possible.
I like to do another turn-off in case the backup turnoff goes bad or breaks.
@@BigSteve215 is it possible to not do that? This is how nearly every valve I've ever used is.
A dedicated shutoff valve for a hose bib is actually a code requirement most places
Word of advice , use a ball valve like the one shown in the picture, If you use a gate valve it runs a risk of having a small piece of dirt or rust from your water lines getting trapped below the gate and preventing the gate from completely closing, causing a small amount of water to seep by, this then freezes within the valve and rupturing, once it warms up a little above freezing, you now have water dripping and or spraying, then refreezing once the temp drops again….you maybe even at work while this is happening…… don’t ask how I know. Lol got to love Canadian winters.
spray foam the hole for energy loss. heat transfer is the name of the game in cold or hot climates. it was 101 yesterday and 6 months ago it was 26 for a high. Got to love Oregon.
If you do that, you'll hate yourself when it's time to replace it. That spray foam is one hell of a glue, especially in a small space like that surrounding a pipe.
Dude, handyman 27 years and I love the info. Keep it up.
Awesome. Thank you. I’m trying.
Hey, The first bib was just fine. You had Uponor with Uponor memory ring in a unconditioned crawl space the pex/uponor will not freeze ,crack, and leak. The frost proof bib with the copper will freeze split and leak if the hose is not detached from the bib. The adhesive on the first bib was just fine for anchoring. General Contractor 45 years
It was all good, just the bib was a little too short. Thank you.
If you got some dry grout that matches you can dust some onto your sealant before it dries. Depending on what product you use it can turn out real nice. You can also mask off around the bib, caulk it, then removed the tape for prettier finished look. I had to do all that with a window install in a brick wall, It would work here as well.
I'm getting ready to do this job and you taught me 2 things I didn't know and that is wrapping the pipe and the angle adapter, pretty cool and I'll be doing this also , New Subscriber, you got me Thank you 😊.
You had the Channelock pliers on the wrong way and most mechanics would think you had AKA POS nut rounder adjustable wrench on backwards. Worked with top notch millwright mechanics who never used adjustable wrenches. I always use flare nut wrenches on fragile brass plumbing hex nuts.
The channel-locks were right. I use the adjustable wrench wrong just to see what people will say these days. Lol. Great call on the flare but wrench’s.
Dude , I am a handyman . Have worked in the trades since mid 70's . I have some comments. I've done some frost free hose bib repair /replacements lately kind of grouped together more than the usual interval I have experienced . The bracket you used on the inside is cool . I haven;t seen them before .But inside is where the the spiders live and is usually dirty , buggy .I have found a gadget that basically looks like a yoke that fits over the faucet on the outside and then can be screwed to the wall to hold the bib in place .My experienced is that the hole thru the wall is too big so there isn't much left to try to screw to thru the holes in the hose bib itself. So that problem is solved and I did not have to go inside with the spiders and try to reach and fasten the bib to something . an important issue is that the hose bib be slanted downward to the outside so that when it is turned off the water will actually drain out and not be trapped where it can freeze .Another important issue is that there is a seal made around the bib housing on the outside to keep the cold air from having a straight shot into the wall and risk freezing the water that way . Further it seems logical to install the longest hose bib assembly that will fit without running into something on the inside . the farther the point where the water is going to be shut off inside away from the cold the better . And don't insulate around it to keep the heat from the inside from getting to the critical point . But maybe the most important issue of all is to have the homeowner remember to remove the hose from the outside if freezing temperatures are expected . Otherwise everything else is moot !!! But I think I have found a decent solution for that issue ,as follows . I have found a screw on gadget that looks similar to a screw on vacuum breaker . but it works a little differently than a standard vacuum breaker . You can leave your hose attached to the hose bib . But when you turn off the hose bib you have to remember [ make a habit } of releasing most of the pressure from the hose by opening what ever you may have attached to the other end . Typically I think that would be some sort of nozzell. .So once the water is turned off with the knob of the hose bib and the most of the pressure is released from the hose , the gadget i am talking about will open internally and allow the water that is up inside the hose bib to drain out on the ground , thus preventing the hose bib tube or the built in vacuum breaker that is typically located on top of the bib behind the handle or knob from freezing and needing to be replaced . But hoses that contract when they are turned off if they are too long or too expansive can defeat the gadget . But hey , this little inexpensive gadget has the potential of saving some substantial money . My experience is that most people have a life and are not too tuned to the need to remove their hose when freezing temps are coming , which is job security for us handymen and plumbers . I'm sure someone can invent a hose bib with a type of tube that will not freeze and split when frozen , but that would really take the fun out of all this, now wouldn't it ?
Thanks for the video! I would recommend spraying foam crack filler/insulation into the hole to provide additional thermal protection. a block of wood behind the upper ear would make that bracket even stronger.
Right on thank you. I will be going back of there at some point.
Great idea with the block of wood to brace the bracket. :-)
I have those freeze proof spigots at my house, and they need anchoring. I didn't even know they existed. Thanks for that! One thing, I think I would have considered putting in a small daughter board where the pipe goes through the wall for that second long screw to keep pressure straight. :-) Awesome video.
Your welcome. They are a pretty sweet new find.
was going to say the same, add a board behind the upper arm of that clamp, or a larger piece with a hole through it.
Plumber here, gotta say it's refreshing to see somebody on youtube giving good plumbing advice. I usually get entertainment from watching "plumbers" make youtube DIY videos and they do almost everything wrong, or just give a few really bad tips. props to you
On the bib mounting, I try to use a flat piece of metal on the wood so the screw threads don’t dig in, they tend to dig in over time and loosen how tight it’s being held, I also in this case would have put a backer block at the top, keep up the good work, from one fix it guy to another
Ive been plumbing for 30 yrs, in Oregon. We have tuff laws. Been using wirsbo or pex for years and love it. I stopped using female pex adapters a few years ago, because the brass is to soft and they split to easy. Ive replace many of them. Happy plumbing.
Oh great to know about the female adapters. Is it an issue across all brands?
@@ThatFixItGuy what I’ve seen was that brittleness became an issue with early LF brass, but newer stuff has gotten better.
Never had a problem with them, don't crank them so much...
*After you open your water the rest of the way (fully open main valve/line) consider crawling under the house one last time to check the connection isn't leaking, as unlikely as that is with PEX, it's still a good habit to be in.*
Ive seen people sprinkle sand on that gray adhesive, helps make it blend in more. Good vidoe, liked that clamp.
That is a call. I think this stuff works pretty well.
This is the 1st time I've ever seen one of your videos. I love the way you comment on things and and appreciate your demeanor! I just subscribed.
Thank you. We are trying.
Very nice Brian. I haven’t see a hose bib bracket like that. Very cool.
They are pretty sweet Ed. Some hate it, but it worked out well.
One tip - mark “down” on the bottom of the hose bib (or whatever you’re installing…vent hoods, electrical devices, etc) with a sharpie so you don’t have to crawl in and out of the crawlspace to check alignment when working solo.
my thoughts too.. One must use ones brain its not just a hat rack..
The hose bibs are marked
This guy didn't even realize that it was marked
I know it's already been said, but yeah, they're already marked.
That is so much better than trying to atach to masonary. Thanks Brian
I totally agree Shawn. Thank you bro.
No its not... drill masonry use tapcons .. now it wont twist loosening caulk and causing water intrusion.. Fill hole with 2000lb cement with a dowl.. Or go thru masonry to rim joist.. Caulking will fail..
Before inserting the pipe into the wall use a marker and mark the inside bottom of the pipe for orientation so the spigot faces the right way so you don't have to keep running inside and out of the house.
No need- they come premarked!
Once the temperature gets below freezing always unhook your hoses from the hose bib. Or they will bust no matter what you do.
That is great advice. And a great topic of a short video. Thank you.
Yep, it happens to someone every year up here in Minnesota.
Also the tail or back side of the pipe inside the house has to be higher then the front at the outside wall to enable the water to drain out.
My bibs on my house have individual shut offs, so I shut then off in the fall and open the valve so no water stands in them, this keeps them from freezing, I did leave a 75 foot garden hose hooked up once years ago and the threaded end basically blew up
Not all bibs. There are old pressure breaking bibs that actually drain from the fixture whenever the water is shut off. They also release pressure in the hose if there is any.
Love that anchor. Wished I'd known about them in the early 2000's when I put my outdoor faucetts behind some valves in the basement. I absolutely hated how the bibs anchored into the stucco.
I agree. I lived in Arizona for some years. Lots of stucco. Lots of issues.
Awesome part! I used to use a chunk of uni-strut and attach the bibb with a 3/4 copper tube size pipe clamp to the strut. These look easier! As a Journeyman plumber,you did an awesome job!💪💪
They are pretty sweet. And pretty inexpensive as well
Love the indoor pipe anchor. It's in my Amazon cart now. going to check my clearance and make sure it will fit the space before I order it. There's nothing at all to attach this bib to the siding. Drywall screws were attached when the last guy fixed the outside bib and the screws have pulled out and left big gaping holes in the siding . Not to mention that they cut the copper pipe about an inch too long so it doesn't even set flush with the house. I am not redoing the whole pipe. That's above my pay grade.
I'm going to try your system next time I change out a hose bib. Looked really good.
It worked out really well. I was very impressed. You
The permanent fix is The Hose Bib Buddy! Available at Lowe's or on Amazon! You don't need to crawl under the house, you don't need to remove your lines or spigot! It takes less than ten minutes, it's a permanent fix, and it looks great! Hose Bib Buddy! Made in Monroe North Carolina by Americans! And it's not expensive!
The 1/4 turn hose bib is the way to go. This one eats washer every couple of years!
the plastic washer provided with the valve is for mounting to clapboard siding the angle of it mathes the siding to keep the valve level.
Great chalk job. I like to use bathroom caulk most places because it does not mildew.
I don’t know how long that would last. Do you use it outside as well?
@@ThatFixItGuy I have but never performed a long term check. Guess a dark color would hold up longer to the damaging UV rays from the sun. Used hundred of tubes of silicone indoors while working at a slaughterhouse & large candy plant that had nightly high pressure wash downs and silicone caulk held up good. In machine & tool & die shops that had a lot of oil mist & flying metal chips would apply silver color silicone over holes in top & sides of 1900 boxes ( 4 by 4" ) and other electrical enclosures to keep inside clean.
Always amazing to see how other countries install these , in germany its quite different and thank god i use copper for these installations and not pvc pipes
The pipe is crosslinked polyethylene (PEX), not PVC. I would find it hard to believe it isn't becoming popular or already popular there as copper is very expensive both for materials and installation. It also basically lasts forever, is freeze damage resistant, and uses fewer fittings for lower cost, better flow rates, and easier installation. Also there is no fire hazard installing it, it doesn't get hard water scale on the inside, and never corrodes thru those in odd locations where the water slowly destroys copper.
The pipe used here is about $130US/91m, the same in copper is $1280 and you will need to use more fittings as it is rigid, coating even more.
It has been in use for over 30 years and still proves to be a great product. The biggest issues have been manufacturers who made the brass fittings out of sub-standard materials and certain locations with water that dissolved them creating leaks. There are also plastic fittings now that have the advantage of being completely corrosion resistant, but I don't trust them yet so only use them where they are easily replaced.
@@court2379 - 1 downside to PEX is rodents can chew through it easily. Ideally they won't get in your house, but reality is a different story.
I like that anchor, best practice would be add a shut off so the hose bibb can be services with out the main being shut off. I use an oversized plate for this situation.
Great call. I wish everyone wanted shutoff valves to every fixture. Thank you.
I had a heart surgery procedure back this past November. They had more machines, tools, fittings and apparatices than non-- doctors can imagine. It's the same with plumbers these days. Docs have protocals -- plumbers (and electricans) have codes they have to work by. This guy has my respect for knowing what is available to do a "code" job. I recently had to replace a toilet in my house. I was my own plumber on that one. I see why these guys have to charge north of 145$$$ an hour.
Thank you. I try to do a job all while showing other people that they can do this. I may take a little more time but it can be done.
@@ThatFixItGuy So now I find that my wood shop toilet can stand to be replaced. I'm sure it was a used toilet to start with. It has no name on it. It has a ring around the water line in the bottom of the bowl that my wife is constantly bugging me to clean regularly. So for 45 bucks I can get a Kohler toilet used, put it in myself. I built my shop in '03. If it has a wax ring, I will replace the seal with a Fluidmaster blue rubber seal.
@@robertshorthill6836 Buying a used toilet is a recipe for disaster. Buy a cadet 3 American Standard. They're cheap,easily installed, replacement parts are easy to find,and they are famous for no problems. As a Journeyman plumber, that's my recommendation.
What a thorough fix!
Thanks for sharing brother that bracket is definitely a game changer. Great video buddy
Yeah it is awesome Steve. Hope you and family have been well.
I love this video.
I would add one thing-once the valve is mounted, your ability to get the hole sealed is limited. Why not wad up some Duct Seal (Ideal 31-601) and mold it around the stem before sliding the stem into the wall? Then as you tighten it will squeeze into the cavity and close it off to air and weather penetration.
The plug in hose connectors are so much better than the twist on/off type.
That is definitely the correct way to do this.
I learn something new every day. Great video
Nice fix, good work. I love the anchor thing you installed, looks solid.
I really like them as well
We have a hot and cold outside faucet combination and the clamps work very well
i just anchor a piece of presure treated 2x to the brick with tapcons .paint the board first with with a paint that matches the brick .then screw the bib to the board with extrrior screws
I had a home that was secured with silicone similar to your adhesive. When I sold it, the inspector pointed it out and I had to go put two screws in it to 'secure it'. It was fine for years though.
Great vid Brian! Thanks!
Thank you bro! I really appreciate all the help.
Did cover the drain hole? Nice job, good tips, a nice person. Video was good no nonsense right to the point thank u
Top notch fix. This earned a subscribe.
Interesting. I'm old school plumbing, so this is a tough one for me. I'm not saying I wouldn't do this for someone who needed an outside bibb and in fact I'd probably be happy to get it done and get the hell outta there! But I'd struggle to put this in my house just in case someone might see it and consider me less than a pro. So it's easy and I like that! But for someone else, not for my house. What is it that I don't like? Well, I don't like how the pex reduces the inside diameter, even though it's probably not going to mean much. I am too old to change and I just never cozied up to plastic pipe, not even PVC for fresh water use (Ok with drainage). I guess it's just because I've been soldering for 50 years, I understand there are benefits to pex (price, durability, ease of use, etc) but to me piping is artwork and plastic just looks blah to me. With all that said, I think you did well and gave some nice tips here. The only thing I'd recommend for this particular install is to anchor those 2 brass screws into a solid base (joist) so that when he-man goes a twisting on your faucet, the torque doesn't get transmitted through and damage something.
He is using pex A _it does not reduce the inside dia like pex B that you are referring to
That pipe and fitting looks like Uponor.
Uponor (Pex A)has same inside diameter as the size number indicates. If it were Pex B I would go to 3/4" piping for my hose bibbs. 3/4 per is a smudge bigger than 1/2 inside diameter.
That looks great, man! Love the anchor 🤙🏽
Get a metal electric rough-in box from a throw away pile. Knock those nickle size plugs out of it. Use those between the screws from the anchor and the house wood.
This is a great idea and will totally do this for another video. Much appreciated
I like to have a shutoff at the hose bib so if it needs to be serviced or won't turn off you don't have to turn the house's water off.
And even with a frost proof you should still shut off water to an outside hose bibb and let it drain out in the winter. (up north anyway)
I’ve ran into like two shutoffs to hose bibs in 20+ years. I think it depends on where your at. That being said as a service guy I would love a valve at every fixture.
Tape and dope. Prolly choose one or the other.
Thanks for sharing your tips/ recommendations for securing the hose bib. One suggestion: since only one "leg" of the anchor rests on the cinder block for support, I would have used a block of wood under the opposite "leg" to rest against the wood plate to provide support and thus provide a balanced hold on the bib pipe as you secure it in place. Again, thanks.
Thanks! Just the video I was looking for. You were very clear and informative. 👍🏻👍🏻
Your welcome. Thank you for watching.
Excellent video tutorial 👌
Glad this could help out.
Good video. I have to do a similar repair but I don’t have to go thru concrete. I’m going to look for that thing that holds it on the inside
You can order your hose bib valve with PEX connection already formed on the end.
If they had one at the store I was at it would have been mine. Thank you.
Relying on adhesive to hold a fitting in place is a bodge job. If the right size hole had been formed in the wall in the 1st place perhaps the tap could have been screwed back to the wall using the two screw holes provided. Or make a metal plate to suit the front bracket.
I like that hose bib anchor maybe flush it out with some 2x material on the framing. FYI there is a dimple on the knurling that indicates the top of the spigot, in other words when the spigot is straight up and down the dimple is on the top.
Pack hydraulic concrete around the pipe. Let set. Done.
I've done it a half dozen times, rock solid.
Do you just put screws in the holes then the cement in and around?
@@ThatFixItGuy I packed the hyd concrete in, then put the screws in. If the screw holes were hollowed out, I packed them as well, then put in the screws.
Great video, thanks. One question though: Why use pipe dope AND teflon tape. I always thought one or the other is sufficient.
I agree. Both are thread lubricants and our design to fill in the gap so the incline plane. No need for both just, overkill. Your intent to have more tubing in the basement is correct for that rare instance where you have an issue of a leak.
Yes one or the other should be fine, most of the time. But those of us who make up threaded joints every day have learned methods that work everytime, no matter what, that's why we use both. Once in a while you'll have a drip if you just use tape, since I started taping and doping, I've never had a drip, so it saves time on having to remake a joint.
I have never had a leak on a 1/2” pipe thread with just one or the other. Tape or dope does not seal the thread. It’s the tapered threads that seal the joint. The tape or dope is to make it slick for a tighter joint with less effort.
Love this! Fix It Guy 4 life!
Thank you! Just trying to help people.
I used an electrical ground clamp, and tapcons to refasten it securely to the wall. This way if I have to replace it. I do not have to bust the glue or grout off.
Don’t forget to put your backflow preventer on the spout of the hosebib
Frost free has built in back flow prevention…
I will be making a video on it soon.
@@SuperVstech there's definitely no vacuum breaker on that hydrant. Not legal.
Code here is frost free + backflow preventer. This video does not have the backflow preventer.
Nice clean work and finished repair. 👍👍
Thank you. I’ve been meaning to chat with you rust bucket. Let’s chat next week. Facebook me you digits.
Best way is 90 up and secure with Threaded Drop Ear Elbow Fitting. That way the 2 screw holes are stable and not near the bored hole.
That original non-frost free hose bibb looked pretty new. Since you have flexible pex inside. You could have cut like 8" to a foot off the inside pex. Strap it up horizontally maybe 2" higher than the hole going outside. Installed a regular ball valve. then drop back down the 2" after the Ball valve before going outside. No bleeder needed since you can shut the inner ball valve off in the winter and open exterior valve. It would never freeze unless you leave the hose connected all winter. But that would burst a frost free as well. That frost free hose spigot should have a backflow prevention disc on it as well. The one you used wouldn't pass inspection in PA
Or in WI or in TX or NC . Just sayin.
Forgot to add, great video. First time here. Like your style.
Thanks for the tips! Solid fix!
Your welcome. Very solid. Very happy with this anchor set up.
Another great Plumbing Job to remember!
Thank you. This really did work out great.
Hawged that hole out like a professional plumber for the old caulk the screws in place trick. Lol
I use a backer block and drill the right sized hole. I know sounds crazy. Lol
What's really needed here is a shroud to shield the hose bib from being bumped into and broken.
I would put the sealer between the outside bracket and the wall before securing the tighter bracket on the inside of the building to give the best seal possible.
Very informative video. I noticed at 6:30, you did a minor boo-boo with the wrenches.
I noticed. He had them turned the wrong way. It would have been correct if he was taking it off.
I stand corrected. He only had the adjustable wrench turned the wrong direction. I took a class in college teaching the proper use of tools. Who would have ever imagined?!
I would love to take a class like that. I've got to find fun in these things. One of my early videos is using an adjustable jaw wrench correctly. It is a big pet peeve for people.
@@ThatFixItGuy Pull with the claw and push with the jaw.
Please choose your new silcock carefully, this one would not pass inspection because it is not an anti-siphon style. Also, your new silcock should include the angled spacer and if it doesn't it's because it fell off on the store shelf and you overlooked it. If you upgrade to a quarter turn style valve instead of a rubber hose bib style valve you will have to enlarge the hole in the wall a small amount so be prepared for that by having either a long wood boring bit or a big masonry bit. The construction adhesive is not a durable solution in cold weather climates. I wish sillcock manufacturers would create a little wider mounting ear to screw directly to the wall. There is available on the market somewhere, a bigger angled backing plate that does have a wider mounting point but I have not seen it at any of the do-it-yourself stores nor have I ever seen the silcock mounting bracket he put in the basement.
What is a silcock?
There is such a thing! Can't remember where I saw it. Sillcock repair plate. Lowes has a one called hose bib buddy. There are others too.
You can always add an after market vacuum breaker
tilting washer is good idea
Yeah I liked that it came with it.
Why has the bib/tap got two holes in it?. Are they for screws? For fixing? Not some crap clamp and silicone sealer.?
Thanks for the Teflon/ ptfe tape trick.
Love from 🇬🇧
They sale a tube of quick concrete mix at any hardware store and sleeve the frost proof bib and the instant concrete and it will hold no problem
The holes that the beveled washer seem to be a place rain water could seep into the hole. I don't see it being a big deal but might have been a good idea to dab the adhesive over them to be sure since it was there.
GREAT Fix/Video !! Subscribed ! Question: My new screwed on (threaded) replacement copper hose bib leaks (used ~ 8 wraps of Teflon, copper thread to copper thread) when in correct position (facing down) but not when tightened all the way, another quarter turn. But then it’s draining sideways.
Your suggestion ? Maybe try pipe dope instead of teflon? , and back it off the 1/4 turn from full tight, so it’s draining/facing downward in the correct position ? Then let the dope dry? Thx from Phx !! Cheers. ( ( P.S. - bib is on a standing, vertical, water pipe coming straight up from the ground. ))
Buy some thicker Teflon. Blue monster makes some that is great. Gives yourself like 5 wraps and tighten to the desired location. Don’t over tighten to where you have to back it off, but get it to where you need it. If you are still struggling with it leaking and nothing will work you may want to change the fitting the hose bib screws into.
I just can't believe that no one has invented a better hose bib. The outer flange on the bib needs to larger to cover the hole and allow for better fastener placement.
Just spray foam it in place. It works great and keeps out the bugs. Also you used your wrench backwards.
I was going through all the comments from these so called plumbers and none mentioned the backwards channel locks. That's 1 of the 1st things you're taught is how to use a wrench
LOL. I use the adjustable wrong all the time to get comments like this, but the channellocks are not used wrong. You need to look again.
@@ThatFixItGuy I'm sorry you're right it's the crescent wrench that's backwards. Stop using them get you some Rigid PWs
K...but even in a warm space...would you NOT want to fill the space with tumescent foam at least for structural support and added insulation effect?
If you use mega lock on one side of the tape, why don't you need it on the other? Some great tips and methods!
do you ever just fill it in with spray foam around the gap through wall?
First thank you Greg. You suggested looking into these anchors I believe. That gap is not that big and that stuff is messy. If the whole was bigger I would have put some foam in there.
Thanks Brian , sweet repair job the anchor really holds it in place. Are you guys still having extremely hot weather? Take care and have a great weekend 👍🇺🇸
Yeah too for me Britt!! How is it out your way? I saw some news on flooding!
@@ThatFixItGuy Yes Brian it’s pretty bad for some of the folks in the Eastern part of Ky lot of flood damage and the last I heard 25 people had died from it and there maybe more. But here where I live today the temperature has been in the low 80’s nice for a change it had been hot and humid and dry but this past week we have got a lot of rain and we are going to get more starting tomorrow. The weather is crazy it’s making a believer out of me about the climate change they keep talking about.
@@brittblanton8342 climate change is a hoax. 🙄
Put a 2x4 underneath that other screw. Solid forever ❗️
I like to install the hose bibb with about a 30 degree turn to the right (or left for a left handed homeowner) so that it is much easier to take the hose on and off. The bibb will still drain out just fine. I also prefer to use a better bibb such as a Woodford Model 19 instead of a Woodford 17, because they are more resistant to freezing. (Or any other brand anti-burst bibb.) The lion's share of the cost to my customer is my time and transport, not the bibb itself. The extra $20 to the consumer for the better part is the best $20 they will ever spend. I also like to drill more holes and add another bibb or two for people when I work on one, I can do the extra ones for less because I am already there and there is no travel cost. This way the customer can have less hose dragging because they then have bibbs on more sides of the house.
I’d go with just the caulk/sealant again. It is simple, quick, durable and effective. After all, it went the distance on the bib that was removed.
Nice job, I think I would have sprayed some spray foam in the hole or stuffed some insulation in it just for insurance from freezing.
All good information...Pex Type A Expansion Tool Kit $435 kind of puts the damper on a DIY. How much pex does a home owner repair.
I know. One of the draw backs of type A pex.
It would be better to have the anchor bracket turned 180 deg so the screw heads are pointing down. Thanks for your video!!
Great tip. Thank you.
Nice job on that frost free hose bib. (I didn't know about such anchors before. I may have screwed a piece of wood between the rim joist/band joist and the upper screw location and screwed bracket to said piece). But you did a marvelous job on that. I loved the tape ideas. (Wish I could hire you to install some new shut offs (ball/quarter turn, of course). Thank you for making & posting this video. God[Bible] Bless.
Thank you. I am actually going to put a couple nail plates down where the anchors mount to the wood. Was an after though to me and my first time using one. I love subscriber feedback. Thank you for your comments. God bless you as well!
@@ThatFixItGuy Excellent. Your idea will give the bib good diagonal rigidity. Thank you for making & posting this video. Pls keep up your good work. God[Bible] Bless.
great fix Brian!!!
Thank you Commander! Is that coke machine up and running?
@@ThatFixItGuy have a bad thermostat. Freezing a exploding cans. More pressing projects are taking priority over the coke machine. 🤪
I totally get that.
Sealant in the hole to keep bugs and cold air out would have been better than your surface coat
Yeah I get that. Not too much of a gap there. I think I will seal the other side the next time I’m over there. Turns out the other hose bib is the same way.
0:50 🤣 Bro, I got a slab. We're going to head to the kid's closet, cut a hole in the drywall...FML...
I usually sprayfoam in the hole as well
Sorry to hear you are using an Arrowhead. Primer is always my choice, having experience with both.
Need to learn the proper way to use adjustable wrench
😂 I do it on purpose you are number 53 to comment! Why does this bother people so much?
I couldn’t see that well but the angled washer behind the flange looked to be wider on the top. Should it have been wider on bottom? Trying to creat the slope?
QUESTION: I BOUGHT MY HOME A LONG TIME AGO, IT HAD AN OUTSIDE FAUCET BUT IT WAS CUT OFF ON THE INSIDE OR THE HOUSE AND CAPPED OFF. WHY WOULD THEY DO THAT. I'D REALLY LIKE TO HAVE IT WORKING. THANKS, GREAT JOB. ALSO WHAT IS THAT STUFF IN THE CAN CALLED, THAT YOU PUT OVER THE TEFLON AND IS IT LEAD FREE? THANKS
The stuff in the can is pipe dope called megalock there is a link in the description box for some. I bet they did not want to pay to have it replaced. Went with cheaper option. And it is lead free.
@@ThatFixItGuy THANK YOU, I DO HAVE PIPE COMPOUND, TOLD IT WAS THE SAME THING? I DON'T KNOW. TIS WHAT MENARD'S TOLD ME ANYWAY. IS THAT TRUE? YES I FIGURED, SURE WOULD LIKE TO HAVE IT FIXED, BUT NOT ON THE HIGH PRIORITY LIST LOL. COULD IT BE BUSTED BELOW GROUND, THIS IS COPPED PIPING I THINK, AS COPPER PIPE WAS USED IN MY HOME PER THE DRAINAGE AND WASHING MACHINE PIPES AND WATER HEATER. ITS ALSO BEEN CUT AT THE HALLWAY FROM THE WATER PIPE TURN ON. THANKS
It is the same thing different brand. That should work for you.
@@ThatFixItGuy OK THANKS SO MUCH. HAVE A GREAT DAY
It also is helpful to use American made sillcocks like Woodford. Quit installing those cheap Chinese ones. Also, sweat a 1/2" inside x pex a coupling. It's smaller and not as expensive.