Sewing a Tudor farthingale is hard. Let's make a modern one instead!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In which I make perhaps 60% of a Tudor Farthingale... and then make a modern version instead. Featuring local grass, copious amounts of hand sewing, and as much lint as anyone could ever want.
As with the Elizabethan bodies, this pattern was taken almost exclusively from Patterns of Fashion 5, and therefore will not be available on my website.
Insta: Anotherdreamgonewest
Not gonna lie, it turned out way more elegant than I expected
Something about the projects you make always seem current but also something that you can wear for the next few decades because of the specific style adaptions, materials and how well you construct them. It's very inspiring
Most plant materials get used like this: harvest the plant (straw would likely work, phragmites, cat tails, bull rushes, etc.), dry the plant, set aside until needed, soak the plant materials until flexible, work plants into final shape (braided, plaited, woven, twisted, etc.), dry materials keeping them in shape, use awesome plants as intended.
This is so funny I remember thinking that everyone thought I was a hippie back in the 70s because I wanted to do everything the way it was originally done, sewing not machine, sewing and gathering herbs and reeds and spiderwebs and just all kinds of things I did in the 70s Speaking of 70s I’m 70 years old now and I thoroughly enjoy your channel. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! I’d say not much has changed- I’m called a hippie constantly because I want to do things “the hard way.”
I’ll say I’ve never gathered spider webs, but I’ve heard of a few different uses for them so maybe I’ll have to try!
@@anotherdreamgonewest I saw it somewhere and got black construction paper and sprayed the spiderweb with silver spray paint and then pushed the black paper up against it and cut the web away around the edges of the paper. It’s absolutely a beautiful print.
I also love the process of sewing by hand and since I began my handsewing journey with cross stitch and my garment creation with crochet hand stitching a garment feels so fast by comparison. Still do a fair bit by machine
I’m in a similar boat. My first fully hand sewn garment was an 18th century set of stays. After spending a month hand sewing boning channels all other hand sewing is a breeze 😅
Very labor intensive…but so worth it in the end!
Your hand stitches are so precise in spacing and neatness. The first outfit I ever made as a teenager was hand sewn. It was a great experience and I loved it! But my mother must have decided that if I was going to make my clothes I needed a sewing machine. Soon after I got one of my grandmother’s Singer machines.
I think one of the reasons I love the domestic arts is they are done with my hands. It’s a soothing rhythm and something beautiful at the end.
It's gorgeous - I love it. I couldn't quite imagine what you were going for - but the final garment has both charm and elegance.
I love how structured the hem is and yet so fluid! Incredible make
Thank you!
Congratulations! You have unlocked: Corded Petticoat!
The short time that I dabbled with bamboo, rattan and straw automatically had me thinking to wet the materials before working it. Usually the day after soaking it. That was about twenty years ago.
It was interesting to see what you came up with. The second time using the braided grass turned out well.
I would recommend looking at basket weavers for inspiration for your locally made materials. willow may also be a good material to investigate...
So beautiful! I love black linen and never tire of a nicely made black linen garment…this was truly inspiring and I feel like I want to make something similar. If that’s not flattery, well I don’t know what is! Incidentally, I tried to figure out how long it took you by counting the different outfits that you were recorded wearing….I figured a week or 10 days of serial making? Perhaps that’s wildly out, but I would be interested in knowing for a few reasons, one of which is that I think a garment’s worth is not just in the cost of fabric but also in the amount of time it takes to make both the raw materials and the garment itself. If people had to sow,, grow, harvest and make the flax/linen that they used for a garment, as well as sew and make the garment itself, then not only would the garment be worth more intrinsically but ‘fast’ fashion would be anathema to most and we wouldn’t have so much of a waste problem. Anyway, that’s my personal soap box !😂
It was fascinating to watch the making of the farthingale. Wondering if you might be able to find something for the hoops from a company that sells furniture caning supplies?
Thank you! Maybe, I’d love to try out a few different things to see how different rigidity works out.
We made mats and pots from juncus affucius. We harvested it and dried it. Then soaked and worked it and again dried it. Perhaps the material cover was sewn on before the final drying?
It looks very cool, but do you have an idea of how you will launder it?
Thank you- and laundering has been a point of discussion in my household. I could take the straw out and wash the skirt-unmaking part of a garment to launder it is a common historic practice and may have been one of the reasons the hoops in farthingales were so easily separated from the skirt.
Honestly though I’ll probably just spot clean it if it gets dirty 🤷♀️
At least it's black so it should be easier to deal with any stains. The main thing with linen is stopping it from creasing too much, which makes it look like a dishrag. A little starch can help.
@@anotherdreamgonewest oh, okay, thank you. I'm considering more modern options since I'm not confident the fabric in my area would withstand removal/replacement of stitches. I'm thinking maybe making loops inside the skirt to lace finished hoops through. Sound okay?
I wondered that as well. I tend to throw it in the washing machine and see what happens.
That stuff you got on line looks like basket reeds.
It does- I think I remember getting it from somewhere with “corset” in the title and it is actually for corsetry, but I’ve tried to find the website again and I couldn’t 🤷♀️
If you made yourself learn to use a thimble, it would go a lot faster and more painless. There is a learning curve but it’s worth it.
Great content 🎉 it would help me if the background music was not as loud as have difficulty with hearing.
It looks super cool! I would love a skirt like that. Thinking of making one but simply applying some kind of ribbon or braid...hmm.
Roughly, how long did you end up making it, and how wide is it at the hem?
And I love the styling too
Thank you! The modern skirt took between 10-20 hours (I know that’s a big variable but I was working on it at the same time as the historical version so it’s hard to say) but that time could be much lower if using a sewing machine. The hem is 2” wide broken into four 1/2” channels, and the next hoop is 5” above that. I agree- this would probably be slightly less structured (and therefore more wearable on a daily basis) if you use something other than the braided grass, which is pretty stiff all things considered.
When I was in 2nd grade (62 years ago) I had a hoop skirt for a dance costume. It was nylon net with plastic INFLATABLE hoops built in!! I remember my Mom struggling with the tiny little valves and blowing up 4 increasingly wide hoops.
Oh wow-I just looked up inflatable hoop skirts and I have to say the history of inflatable garments is unexpectedly enthralling! Thank you for a new rabbit hole!
The Farthingale reminds me of a Corded petticoat.
I recently made one.
I sewed in thick cording on to the bottom layers. Thinking it would give it balance under the 1830s dress that I made it for.
When I put it on it looked like a Farthingale.
It looks kind of cool, and a lot of work to make one.
Thanks for a great video.
😊
8:15 Reed was definitely soaked in water in order to make it flexible. I still remember how the sink in the art room was full of reeds for the lesson on weaving
I love the idea of historical costume sewing and did a lot of it in the past but I ended up finding it sucked a lot of joy out of sewing for me. All that time, and money and storage space for a garment used so seldomly and that I frankly did not need just made me feel bad. I love how you work these wonderful historical and fantastical ideas into wearable garments. It's very inspiration and I look forward to setting up a sewing space again now that I have moved.
Your work and approach is inspiring. I like that you embrace slowing down when it comes to sewing and also being flexible when something isn't working. This modern farthingale turned out great!
Also, just throwin' it out there, Renaissance Fabrics usually has cotton bobbinet in stock (except for right now, of course) and it's a bit less expensive than Mood.
Wow. Had no clue where this would end up! I think it turned out really cool, especially the visible "hoops." Love it!
I clicked on this so fast! It’s such a good idea to take things from the past and implement them into modern times. That way we can actually use them :)
Nice- thank you! I 100% agree- I love making things using historic practice, but it’s not as fun if it just sits in a closet afterwards
My mother made me a rope hoop petticoat in the 50's. Her usual heavy starch did the trick. I have always wanted another one. No i can with your modern redition of the farthingale. But it will be the skirt. Thank you for the inspiration. 🎉
Wait, I need more info on this. Rope hoop petticoat? This was a thing? When was it worn? With what? For what occasions?
The visual of the braided grasses through the bobbinet against the black is STUNNING! Adding that single additional (kinda)hoop also works really well, making the design more cohesive rather than an add-on or an afterthought.
Thank you! The extra hoop also helps hold the skirt out a little so it’s functional also 😄
First time visitor with a lap full of hand sewing. While more a medievalist i definitely appreciate yor work creating this modern farthingale. It is so stunning.. thank you.
Aw thank you so much! It was a lot of fun to make!
You make things no one else in the historical costubing community does! And you make them so well… very much an inspiration for me.
Also, can I say I love your style of narration? Your dry sense of humor is just a joy to watch and listen to.
Ha- thank you! I never know if my jokes land so it’s good to know someone enjoys them 😁
The lint battle is REAL. My two favourite garments I’ve made myself are black trousers, and I have a white dog that sheds hair. Crazy making!
Amazing! All your lovely neat work and stitching certainly paid off! Well done!
jess, it turned out gorgeous! the length and silhouette give 1930s film noire as well as farthingale and victorian walking skirt. and i love making, too--it really is all about the experience. thank you so much for sharing you with us!! :D
Love your approach. Reminds me of how Vivienne Westwood mined historical dressmaking and tailoring techniques and then made something totally modern using them. And totally agreed with what you said in the video about how travel rarely gives a chance to see local clothes making and how sad that is.
I love your channel. I started with the video about changing the lace on a modern blouse with a better quality one. I now wait with impatience for every video. The idea about your clothing line is great, even when it is for yourself. This is what I really enjoy - celebrating historical techniques and details in a modern sence.
There is indeed a lot of joy in hand sewing a garment.
I've made a farthingale before-based upon historical info, what they did was measure out your height and waist circumference, made four rectangles based upon those measurements, then slit two of the rectangles in half such that you end up with four triangles. Then the triangles are attached to the sides of the two remaining rectangles, and the resulting pieces are joined at the sides. You make a drawstring on the top, sew down fabric bands to make casings, then insert something stiff for the "boning" and voila! There is your hoop skirt. I've worn it to many a Ren faire and costume event.
Another cool thing about doing it this way is that due to the bias grain of the side triangles, the fabric automatically stretches when the weight of your skirt is placed on it and this makes it naturally fall straight in the front with the hoops swinging out more towards the back.
Ah, cool! I’m sure that’s a lot of fun to wear!
Farthingales look so difficult to make wow! The modern end result is so interesting. The look of the raffia (?) strips reminds me of a ballet skirt I wore as a kid actually!
I have watched all the BBC farm series over and over again lol starting with Secrets of the Castle which really isn’t farming then Tudor Monastery Farm, Tales of the Green Valley, Victorian, Edwardian, and Wartime Farm in a cycle. For some reason, they just endlessly fascinate me. This is the first video of yours I’ve seen, but will definitely check out more. I really loved the using of local materials in your modern version. Awesome idea!
This is so lovely to watch and see your version of a farthingale!
I attempted a historical one last year and oh dear were there many mistakes that I have realized after wearing. I don't know if it sounds strange, but the way you just went ahead and fixed what you didn't like for your version really inspired me to finally get mine out of the closet and fix it
If you were to grow a willow tree close by, you could harvest your own withies to make almost-accurate farthingales …
You might find thatching reed to be a good source of suitable material.
I really like the way this worked out, and now I'm wondering if the broom corn I have would work. Hmm.
Just a suggestion; in your older version it looks like they may have used bundled long pine needles as the stiffener. It works on baskets. 😊
I have rafia. I have black linen. I need a full petticoat. Yay!
yes, in order to work with reeds of any thickness, you need to soak them. that's how rush seats and caned seats and backs on chairs are made as well. you work wet.
You are right! The moment, when a method start working, is intoxicating.
Wow, that was fascinating! And really inspiring on how you incorporated a historical technique into a truly modern garment. I’d love to hear more just about your experience of wearing it in everyday life after a while.
I started out wanting to do historically accurate. I stopped six inches into a messy looking seam and decided that what I really wanted was the long skirt.
I admire you creators who want to learn the skill set and who enjoy the process. You go a very long way in keeping this information alive and around. Thank you for your efforts!
I can see how a floor length version would give that certain look depicted in the portraits.
I love the gentle lines of this hoop method
Love your skirt and the head gear!
For me, this video was quite unique.👏👏👏👍I've never seen this "hoop" technique used for garment creation. It was surprising to see the reeds/grasses displayed outwardly. I'm glad to learn there's an actual use for bobbinet as I always believed it to be overpriced cotton tulle. I admire your excellence in committing to this task. Though it was satisfying for you, it appeared tedious.💜💜💜💜💜💜💜
Thank you! There were definitely points that became tedious-id think long and hard before making all 16 hoops from the original. Bobbinet is great. It’s a lot stronger than tulle and doesn’t stretch as much as nylon net, although it is prohibitively expensive for a lot of the uses we have for tulle and net. Benefits and drawbacks I suppose!
Wow! Results way exceeded the description. That's amazing!
Aw thanks!
My first idea was to use a willow branch. This is really steady and can be easily curved. It was a material often used by then (garden fence, baskets) and very local. Interesting video❤
I think a willow branch would work, I remember reading something about willow branches in some of my research. Thank you!
Great work!
I wonder if the hoops were separate historically to make it more washable?
Thank you! I think washability was probably one of the benefits of separate hoops
Millennial Olive Oyl … love it !
Thanks for the nice video
Haha, thanks!
Now I need to try this with sisal rope
Nice- sisal rope may actually be the perfect substitute, although you’d need to play around with a few methods for connecting the ends.
Absolutely gorgeous
Thank you!
Can you givne a name of the book?
Yes- it’s patterns of fashion 4: the content, cut, construction and content of linen shirts, smocks, neckwear, headwear and accessories for men and women c.1540-1660
Fantastic
Absolutely mesmerizing-! I sew, but only by machine...
Thank you! Hand sewing is always an adventure- but for that matter so is machine sewing 😄
yay, it always makes me so happy when you post!
not raffia, which comes from a very distinctive looking raffia palm.
and I am not sure about the rules when it comes to suggesting another youtuber in the comments on a youtube video so I apologize in advance but *if* you're not familiar with her and want something very cool to listen to during sewing time, Sally Pointer's experimental archaeology stuff is absolutely fascinating and might have helped when it came to doing battle with reeds.
Thank you! This definitely didn’t come from a palm, so not raffia- thank you! And I totally don’t mind other TH-camrs being mentioned, I will definitely check out Sally Pointer, it sounds fascinating! Thank you!
lol, just realized I said thank you three times in that response. Very grateful this morning 😂
@@anotherdreamgonewest a wonderful way to be! this project of yours came out lovely, can't wait for the next one!
Read Leviticus 19:28.
Are you tubers speaking more slowly? I keep having to speed up to x1,5 just to get conversational cadence
I would get a heart attack if I had to listen to the whole video at 1,5 speed. It’s just fine the way it is, esp. when you try to follow the contents, wrap your head around the described garment construction and such.
That’s fair- I do speak slowly. I’m of the toastmasters crowd, and was taught to speak slowly and pause to avoid saying um- although I do still say like a lot, so I’m not sure this method works 🤷♀️