You got my sub at 1:52. That comment is so true. I have been at this Willy’s thing for four months now, and projects, problems an $$$$$ just seem to multiply with time. But it sure is fun working on this rig. And I know it’s going to be just as fun driving.
Most of those caulking guns have a little trigger next to the pump handle, when you've pumped- out all the grease you need, hit that trigger and it releases the pressure. With bearings I usually clean them up and blow them out and inspect them before repacking them there's a way to blow them out without getting them to "sing".
Hmm not real sure. I'm assuming you're talking about the bushing right after the tube going toward the knuckle? what the inboard side of the shaft rides on? Maybe a slide hammer?
I do believe that the axle pilot is pressed into your axle tube, you should be able to see it once you pull the knuckle off. to my knowledge you don't replace it. There is a brass bushing on the spindle that the shaft rides on, so the pilot shouldn't be a wear part.
@@overlandfarms8148 yes thank you. I already took everything off of the vehicle when I took one apart and started looking at the sequence on how to put stuff back together I noticed this what they call a referred to as a axle pilot. before I started taking apart the second one after it was already removed off the vehicle I said look at it remember dude where you got this from and I did and I still can't figure out where it goes. But it's there there's two of them one came out of each side but any video I've watched I can't see it being removed or put back into place. Nowhere does it make sense to go except between the two bearings in the middle of the hub/ brake that slides back over the spindle. It looks like a cone and it has flanges on both sides. You cannot find it on any of the parts list when you order parts for the hub if you go into the one that it shows in the sequence it says certain years get the one with the flange well that's what I have and I have the same exact setup you do with Spicer axles so I'm completely stumped like I'm going crazy in the last 2 days looking at this s***
I assume you're talking about the knuckle lube? I've never used it before, but they do claim it's for closed knuckles. There's really not alot of options out there, you just need something in the middle between grease and gear oil so it can be slung by the axle u joint.
@@overlandfarms8148 on some of those early 4x4 applications, I know Chevy for one, around 1960, you filled it with gear oil , I noticed you have a filler plug in the side of your joint, I don't think that's for "Grease". Wheel bearings though do take Grease, Packed into the bearings like usual.
MY I suggest that rhe ball surface should be sanded and buffed a little. That rough, pitted surface is going to tear your seals apart. In a perfect world it would be a polished surface.
they've been rough and pitted for a long time, this was our ranch jeep for 20 years. there's really no bringing them back to a polished, extra smooth surface. knuckle seals are $11& grease was $8. so I'm okay with them not being perfect.
OK, but here's the thing, you are using the newer SPICER LIFETIME LUBRICATED U-JOINTS, do you know that you do not need to fill the knuckle when using that u-joint? None required. If you pack the Kingpins with Lucas Red and Tacky, and use a Spicer Lifetime u-joint, There is no need for any bathing of parts in a sling of lubricant. Bendex joints need knuclke lube, Spicers don't. There is no way for any extra lube to get into the Spicer joint, it is sealed with lifetime space-age lubricants. Just sayin.
I've honestly seen people say both, and the manual doesn't really clarify which shoe goes where; so I tried to do the one that made the most since to me lol. Thanks for checking up on it!
@@overlandfarms8148 On a servo break application, where one shoe is shorter than the other, the shorter shoe goes towards the front, unless you're doing the majority of your driving in reverse and then you'd put the shoes opposite. the servo action is the twisting when you apply the brakes & they contact with the rotating drum.
![Willys Jeep Wheel Bearing SETUP [easy to follow steps]](/img/n.gif)
You got my sub at 1:52. That comment is so true. I have been at this Willy’s thing for four months now, and projects, problems an $$$$$ just seem to multiply with time. But it sure is fun working on this rig. And I know it’s going to be just as fun driving.
Great video, I’ll be tackling mine soon on my ‘46
was a damn good vid bro, keep making them.
Beautiful. I have a 64 cj5. Gonna be tackling all of this in the fall. Nice video!
Yessir it gives me a little piece of mind going 45 mph doing the road lol
Most of those caulking guns have a little trigger next to the pump handle, when you've pumped- out all the grease you need, hit that trigger and it releases the pressure.
With bearings I usually clean them up and blow them out and inspect them before repacking them there's a way to blow them out without getting them to "sing".
Nice job. Good explanations.
thanks I appreciate it!
I'm working on a 47 cj2a now myself, great projects. Any ideas on how to get the axel bushing inside the ball out?
Hmm not real sure. I'm assuming you're talking about the bushing right after the tube going toward the knuckle? what the inboard side of the shaft rides on? Maybe a slide hammer?
Hey bro I need some help. I can't figure out where the axle pilot goes back in the sequence
what are you referring to as the pilot?
@@overlandfarms8148if you look up Kaiser Willys diagram it's number 16
I do believe that the axle pilot is pressed into your axle tube, you should be able to see it once you pull the knuckle off. to my knowledge you don't replace it. There is a brass bushing on the spindle that the shaft rides on, so the pilot shouldn't be a wear part.
@@overlandfarms8148 yes thank you. I already took everything off of the vehicle when I took one apart and started looking at the sequence on how to put stuff back together I noticed this what they call a referred to as a axle pilot. before I started taking apart the second one after it was already removed off the vehicle I said look at it remember dude where you got this from and I did and I still can't figure out where it goes. But it's there there's two of them one came out of each side but any video I've watched I can't see it being removed or put back into place. Nowhere does it make sense to go except between the two bearings in the middle of the hub/ brake that slides back over the spindle. It looks like a cone and it has flanges on both sides. You cannot find it on any of the parts list when you order parts for the hub if you go into the one that it shows in the sequence it says certain years get the one with the flange well that's what I have and I have the same exact setup you do with Spicer axles so I'm completely stumped like I'm going crazy in the last 2 days looking at this s***
@@overlandfarms8148 ok I can't figure out what it needs to be there for as well. Appreciate your time. Thank you
5.0 Rev up solution... Fire Resistant Great Stuff expanding Foam dispensed from a long tube installed inside the muffler. will solve the problem.
thanks!
Are you sure thats the right bearing grease? Doesnt look like it.
I assume you're talking about the knuckle lube? I've never used it before, but they do claim it's for closed knuckles. There's really not alot of options out there, you just need something in the middle between grease and gear oil so it can be slung by the axle u joint.
No I was referring tibwhat went into the bearings. It looks like general use grease. For the knuckle you could use cornhead grease like some do.
@@overlandfarms8148 on some of those early 4x4 applications, I know Chevy for one, around 1960, you filled it with gear oil ,
I noticed you have a filler plug in the side of your joint, I don't think that's for "Grease".
Wheel bearings though do take Grease, Packed into the bearings like usual.
MY I suggest that rhe ball surface should be sanded and buffed a little. That rough, pitted surface is going to tear your seals apart. In a perfect world it would be a polished surface.
they've been rough and pitted for a long time, this was our ranch jeep for 20 years. there's really no bringing them back to a polished, extra smooth surface. knuckle seals are $11& grease was $8. so I'm okay with them not being perfect.
Looks like it would have to be welded and then machined back down to do it right, if not replacing it all together.
Oh just subscribed as well!!
Thanks! It's appreciated
just cause the body is shotty, doesn't mean that you cant have an immaculate roller and drivetrain!!!
Oh man that red paint will add 5 more horsepower lol
oh you bet, only at sea level though haha.
OK, but here's the thing, you are using the newer SPICER LIFETIME LUBRICATED U-JOINTS, do you know that you do not need to fill the knuckle when using that u-joint? None required. If you pack the Kingpins with Lucas Red and Tacky, and use a Spicer Lifetime u-joint, There is no need for any bathing of parts in a sling of lubricant. Bendex joints need knuclke lube, Spicers don't. There is no way for any extra lube to get into the Spicer joint, it is sealed with lifetime space-age lubricants. Just sayin.
Short brake shoe goes on the front.
Oops, never mind, you are correct.... long shoe in front! My bad
I've honestly seen people say both, and the manual doesn't really clarify which shoe goes where; so I tried to do the one that made the most since to me lol. Thanks for checking up on it!
@@overlandfarms8148 On a servo break application, where one shoe is shorter than the other, the shorter shoe goes towards the front, unless you're doing the majority of your driving in reverse and then you'd put the shoes opposite.
the servo action is the twisting when you apply the brakes & they contact with the rotating drum.
just pulled the left front knuckle off of my 47 project jeep, it uses the ball type axle joint.
th-cam.com/video/AcnWpHqsBo8/w-d-xo.html