Great content. Thanks. A couple of ideas: 1. If you’re going to talk about ticking engines then give us some audio so we know what to listen for. 2. If you’re going to talk about soot from unburned fuel show us what it looks like, where it forms on the exhaust, and how it compares to typical exhaust output. 3. If you’re going to talk about telltale smoke coming from the exhaust system show us what that looks like, maybe compared to a cold start in cold or humid weather. It would be great to see some audible and visible clues for any potential problems. Really appreciate that you put these together!
What a fantastic informative video and so well explained. Recently bought a 987 Boxster S 3.4 nearly 80,000 miles. Didn’t get it scoped but using oil at approx 1 litre per 1,000 miles, some weeks worse than others, damage clearly already done. I only use 99 RON fuel and Mobil 1 oil. I suppose the upside of using so much oil is that it is being refreshed frequently. It has full Porsche service history but at 20,000 intervals which seems stupidly long to me even with synthetic oils. Porsche need to take some responsibility with the stated service intervals: not for enthusiasts who would change regularly but for for regular folk who go by the book. I’m in the UK but have subbed to your channel: great work 👍🏻
Yes 20k mile intervals was Very Abusive . In my Corvette and a truck both Mobil one is Worn Out by 8k miles !!! And thats with filter changes every 2k miles inbetween . Viscosity changed to thinner and you could no longer see thru the oil showing dirt cant be filtered out . The particles were too small .
Loved the discussion! Would love to see more of these guys. So much to cover in such a short time and y’all set it up well. Just bought the M9X DVD series from The Knowledge Gruppe and can’t wait to buy and rebuild an engine using there expertise.
Watch the Rennvision for more info. Jake makes a great upgrade but very expensive. Jake...if I do get bore score...what is a basic rebuild cost with Nikisil? Not the 4.0 & 4.3 options.
Thanks very much for this very informative program. I'm amazed at the collective knowledge on this panel. Looking forward to more information on SUMEBore technology in connection with the M96 / M97 engines. Eventually we are all going to need to rebuild so it's really great that guys like Jake Raby and Lake Speed Jr. are working on this. Thanks!
I appreciate the discussion, but the truth is that the guests don’t have an incentive to help people prevent bore scoring. They make $$$ on fixing them. *warm up your car before driving hard *idle the car for a cool down *Change your oil every 5-7k miles. *get a magnet plug *do proper cooling system maintenance *make more $$$. After all, these toys are meant to be enjoyed 😊 and yes, they will eventually break. 🤷♂️ If you want a problem free driving experience, get a civic. I had a CRX with 250k miles and the redline was my best friend! 😂
Jake has an entire video series on the topic including one video on prevention. Look for Rennvision videos. I hear you but they didn't create the issue, just great solutions.
I have owned 5 996s 2001 to 2004 I have no problems put 100,000 miles on all of them I bought them all with 30 to 50k on them I drove them every day I only ran Amsoil signature series 5/30 I never ran them hard unless the oil temp was at full temp and believe me that was hard to do. The only thing that failed was one ims and one oil separator . I never had to add any oil. Other than oil air filter and front brakes I did absolutely no maintenance.
Great video guys, thanks so much. I'm in Australia and bought a 996.2 a few months ago with a re-built engine (via LN Engineering), only to discover last week that all 6 cylinders have bore scoring! We think it was an over-heating episode post the rebuild (which was only completed 12 months ago). So, I'm about to get it re-built again. One thing with all these videos is I'd love to learn more about the way engines suffer damage after bore scoring. All the videos seem to gloss over that a bit. I get that it leads to a 2-way exchange through the cylinders of oil and fuel, leading to a buildup of hydrocarbons which damages the engine further, and also that metal fragments from the cylinders get into the oil and cause damage. I'd love to understand this more. How long can it take for an engine to move to the next stage of damage? What sort of damage actually occurs? Etc etc. Maybe some real-world case studies. Anyway, thanks heaps for this and all the other great videos you guys have done. Jake and Lake (and Vu!) are awesome.
This is a very important technical subject that was presented in a disorganized and confusing way. I watched the Flat Six Innovations series of videos on this topic and found those extremely useful. In this video when the team addresses "...what's the difference between wear and when does it become bore scoring?" (at 30 min 10 sec) Mr. Raby explains that it is a "type of wear" on the cylinder wall which is misleading. By design, the piston is not supposed to make direct contact with the cylinder, the compression & other sealing rings and oil do that. This problem is not "wear" phenomenon, it is destructive dynamic contact between three components; piston, cylinder, fuel.
Sorry that you found it confusing. It was a brief introduction to the topic. a lot to cover in an hour. Glad that the Flat six series was useful for you.
Great information, thank you. It would have been interesting to hear your experts talk about their views on engine rebuild choices after scoring requires such work. In 944 engines, for example, there is debate on whether to reseal the cylinders or sleeve them--and the attendant question of whether you can reuse original pistons. Also, I would love to see a tech talk with transmission expert discussing the relative merits of different 911/912/914 manual transmissions. Many rebuilders swap out transmissions. Why?
You raise an excellent point I’d have loved to have heard their opinions on that as well. I was always told that you have the machine work done to straighten the bores and use new pistons as the cylinder wear and skirt wear would enharently place the cylinder out of round and using a new piston in a unserved bore would Possibly create a smoker depending on how far out of round it is. Of course serviceable limits are always a factor, but on the engines I’ve built for myself or others, I’ve always had the machine work done with a minimal over bore and replaced the pistons to get an honest seal. Porsche engine I lean towards sleeving because the lining surfaces are very specific and boring them would mean you lose that lining and reduce the life of that cylinder. I’ve tried doing things the best I know how, but I’d love to know what the pros do and why- it’d add some very useful knowledge on how to approach a rebuild when I dig into my 996.2 in the future. 137,800 miles and still kicking! You made some great posts here man!
I wonder that on the 968 engine also. Reseal the cylinder or sleeve them. I have 1 car with scores on #2 that is just fine around town but I go to DE and blow through 2 quarts of oil in a day. I need to so something in the not to distant future.
One of the first coments in the video saying "bores and pistons are the same thing" - I was out at that point. They clearly don't understand even the basics.
Thanks for the information, What and why is the difference of the piston rings types and where can we use each type according to the way of the operation? Anwer (Tripoli/Libya)
Hi, ive got a question. Would a cylinder get scoring if its start up and then start driving fast with it? Meaning that the engine is room temperature (30°c) and then first start and push the engine slightly (going fast on cold engine)? And does scoring cause power loss within an engine? And does this count for All engines including motorcycle engines?
What you have stated , being on the gas pedal Before the engine is thouroghly warmed up and temp stabilized IS the biggest factor to scoring . The piston from heating too quickly warms faster than the cylinders .
I drive my 997 like a normal car, that is, shifting at about 3k - 4k rpm's, cruising at 2500-3000revs, etc. But some guys say you have to drive them at high revs like 4k - 6500. Does operating the engine at the higher revs have any effect on the likelihood of bore scoring?
Thanks for the education. I have a questions to prevent my 996 C4S from it. 1.Which oil is good ? Thicker or lighter. Currently using Fuchs race 10W50 , moved from 5W40 or 5W50 Mobil1. Changing every 6 months less than 5000km. 2. I do idle for a while before driving out. Instruction says to drive immediately after starting up. Which is better ? TIA
Lake Speed just left Driven Racing Oils where he helped create their oils. I couldn't post their website for you. I guess Google blocks commerce and conservative politics. Similar insanity... I use DT40. Has ZDDP and a better wear package. I actually use their other weight oils in my other cars too.
The oil weight you should use should fall into the parameters in the user manual, which is based on ambient temperature. While we won't make an oil brand recommendation here, your car should be using synthetic. It's better to drive immediately after starting rather than waiting for the car to warm up, as driving will warm the oil and engine up more quickly. Until the engine is at the correct temp, it will run rich at idle. The longer it runs rich at idle, before the engine comes up to temp, the longer the tolerances between pistons and bores are out of normal spec, meaning fuel can more easily blow by the piston rings and contaminate the oil. This is exacerbated when the ambient temp is cold. Over time, this will accelerate the wear of your engine.
Was really interested in a yellow 997.2 but sorry I'm totally scared away from the Porsche brand and the hype around it. I wanted to pull the trigger on a 996.1 - heard about bore scoring and IMS issues. Moved up to 997.2 and hearing bore scoring is a bigger issue - "it's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when". Then you spend about $25k to fix it? I'll pass
I've loved Porsche for as long as I can remember. I'm finally at the point to buy one within my range but with so many worries I'm scared to death to pull the trigger and be left with an expensive paper weight. Is it better to buy cheap and immediately do a Rebuild or buy at the Top of your price range and Hope you got lucky? All purchases will have a PPI done by a Licensed Porsche Dealership, but even knowing this I still fear buying a paper weight.😫
We'd suggest buying the best example your budget allows. Also consider doing a PPI at a shop that specializes in the model you are interested in. You can also reach out to the local PCA region for shop recommendations.
Follow the advice of Vu. Get a PPI and enjoy the car in your budget. The internet will give scary views of everything. Example Toyota removed the Tundra transmission cooler. The internet is loaded with why you need to install a cooler. If you tow that heavy and that often a 250 diesel is the truck for the job. Learn about the model you are interested in .
Why not use Nikasil on ALL Porsches instead of using it on some models and not on others within the same generation? Another issue is the Bore to Stroke ratio. How many bore scoring issues are on the sides of the bore and not in-line with the connecting rod? None of my daily drivers have ever had a bore scoring issue, but then none of them were Porsches.
What what you guys suggest to do with a 3.0 968 engine with some scoring issues, mostly in cyl #2, to the point where the oil use is elevated and 1 day of DE goes through 2 quarts of oil but daily use there is nearly no oil consumption. I dont DE it anymore.
Bore scoring has completely scared me off of a Porsche. The new ones are too expensive for normal people now..and now the used ones are all time bombs. Really a big deal. Plan is a z06 now...for carrera t prices....um, no brainer.
Oil usage on modern cars really should be nothing or negligible. If not, then there's likely a leak somewhere, or the engine is high-mileage. A high-mileage engine might burn some oil, which is normal, but know that at some point (hopefully far down the line) the engine will need to be rebuilt.
From a thermodynamic and mechanical perspective, a coated cylinder is better than a sleeved cylinder. Cast iron liners as you mentioned are an option, but they do have drawbacks.
@@TotalSeal, can you please explain the drawbacks, I'm genuinely interested. Obviously, Jake is a legend, but these guys are interesting, too. What's your opinion of their soup, and why? www.europeanpartssolution.com/rebuilt-porsche-engines
@@frankiolo the biggest issues are related to heat transfer and thermal expansion. A coated aluminum bore still conducts heat and expands in a similar manner as aluminum. A ductile sleeve does not, because it is a different material. Also, an iron wet sleeve can lead to bi-metallic corrosion in an aluminum block. There are steps you can take to remedy that, but the point is that each of these "soups" has their own pros and cons. At this point, the research indicates SUMEbore offers the potential to be a superior "soup" in comparison to current aftermarket solutions, but we still have many miles of testing to go before we can say anything conclusive.
There is more information about the SUMEbore technology available at www.EnginePerformanceExpo.com. On Day 1 videos, Jake and Lake have a more in-depth discussion about SUMEbore technology.
This was definitely one of the best & most informative episodes. It would be great to see more episodes with the level of detail!
Lake Speed is awesome! Always informative and explains complex topics for lay people so well.
Thanks for watching!
Great content. Thanks.
A couple of ideas:
1. If you’re going to talk about ticking engines then give us some audio so we know what to listen for.
2. If you’re going to talk about soot from unburned fuel show us what it looks like, where it forms on the exhaust, and how it compares to typical exhaust output.
3. If you’re going to talk about telltale smoke coming from the exhaust system show us what that looks like, maybe compared to a cold start in cold or humid weather.
It would be great to see some audible and visible clues for any potential problems.
Really appreciate that you put these together!
Thanks for the input!
Agreed, a lot of conversation round and round. I'd rather hear "If you owe a Porsche DO This.."
What a fantastic informative video and so well explained. Recently bought a 987 Boxster S 3.4 nearly 80,000 miles. Didn’t get it scoped but using oil at approx 1 litre per 1,000 miles, some weeks worse than others, damage clearly already done. I only use 99 RON fuel and Mobil 1 oil. I suppose the upside of using so much oil is that it is being refreshed frequently. It has full Porsche service history but at 20,000 intervals which seems stupidly long to me even with synthetic oils. Porsche need to take some responsibility with the stated service intervals: not for enthusiasts who would change regularly but for for regular folk who go by the book. I’m in the UK but have subbed to your channel: great work 👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
Yes 20k mile intervals was Very Abusive . In my Corvette and a truck both Mobil one is Worn Out by 8k miles !!! And thats with filter changes every 2k miles inbetween . Viscosity changed to thinner and you could no longer see thru the oil showing dirt cant be filtered out . The particles were too small .
Those long oil changes was invented to ruin engines... It shortens the lifespan of your engine drastically.
Loved the discussion! Would love to see more of these guys. So much to cover in such a short time and y’all set it up well. Just bought the M9X DVD series from The Knowledge Gruppe and can’t wait to buy and rebuild an engine using there expertise.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow! Going to have to watch this again.. so much quality learning!! Thank you Vu!👍😎👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Watch the Rennvision for more info. Jake makes a great upgrade but very expensive.
Jake...if I do get bore score...what is a basic rebuild cost with Nikisil?
Not the 4.0 & 4.3 options.
my understanding is that he doesn't bother with stock rebuilds any more. These builds are now handled by RND Engines and will run you about $20k.
Always enjoy these videos. Thanks for another one.
Thanks very much for this very informative program. I'm amazed at the collective knowledge on this panel. Looking forward to more information on SUMEBore technology in connection with the M96 / M97 engines. Eventually we are all going to need to rebuild so it's really great that guys like Jake Raby and Lake Speed Jr. are working on this. Thanks!
Our pleasure!
What a good program. Congratulations.
Wow thanks guys I learn a lot I am plan to Purchase a 2001 911 now I know exactly what I’m looking for to see me money in the long
Please continue. I learned a lot.
I appreciate the discussion, but the truth is that the guests don’t have an incentive to help people prevent bore scoring. They make $$$ on fixing them.
*warm up your car before driving hard
*idle the car for a cool down
*Change your oil every 5-7k miles.
*get a magnet plug
*do proper cooling system maintenance
*make more $$$.
After all, these toys are meant to be enjoyed 😊 and yes, they will eventually break. 🤷♂️
If you want a problem free driving experience, get a civic. I had a CRX with 250k miles and the redline was my best friend! 😂
Jake has an entire video series on the topic including one video on prevention. Look for Rennvision videos. I hear you but they didn't create the issue, just great solutions.
@@alexcassinelli6651 can you please link the video on prevention? I couldn’t find it. Thanks in advance.
@@HellaRandomVideos U bet. Try this: th-cam.com/video/Cul6J5PP1KE/w-d-xo.html
Outstanding show, I really enjoyed!
Glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to subscribe.
I have owned 5 996s 2001 to 2004 I have no problems put 100,000 miles on all of them I bought them all with 30 to 50k on them I drove them every day I only ran Amsoil signature series 5/30 I never ran them hard unless the oil temp was at full temp and believe me that was hard to do. The only thing that failed was one ims and one oil separator . I never had to add any oil. Other than oil air filter and front brakes I did absolutely no maintenance.
Awesome to have this support!
Great video guys, thanks so much. I'm in Australia and bought a 996.2 a few months ago with a re-built engine (via LN Engineering), only to discover last week that all 6 cylinders have bore scoring! We think it was an over-heating episode post the rebuild (which was only completed 12 months ago). So, I'm about to get it re-built again. One thing with all these videos is I'd love to learn more about the way engines suffer damage after bore scoring. All the videos seem to gloss over that a bit. I get that it leads to a 2-way exchange through the cylinders of oil and fuel, leading to a buildup of hydrocarbons which damages the engine further, and also that metal fragments from the cylinders get into the oil and cause damage. I'd love to understand this more. How long can it take for an engine to move to the next stage of damage? What sort of damage actually occurs? Etc etc. Maybe some real-world case studies. Anyway, thanks heaps for this and all the other great videos you guys have done. Jake and Lake (and Vu!) are awesome.
This is a very important technical subject that was presented in a disorganized and confusing way. I watched the Flat Six Innovations series of videos on this topic and found those extremely useful. In this video when the team addresses "...what's the difference between wear and when does it become bore scoring?" (at 30 min 10 sec) Mr. Raby explains that it is a "type of wear" on the cylinder wall which is misleading. By design, the piston is not supposed to make direct contact with the cylinder, the compression & other sealing rings and oil do that. This problem is not "wear" phenomenon, it is destructive dynamic contact between three components; piston, cylinder, fuel.
Sorry that you found it confusing. It was a brief introduction to the topic. a lot to cover in an hour. Glad that the Flat six series was useful for you.
Great information, thank you. It would have been interesting to hear your experts talk about their views on engine rebuild choices after scoring requires such work. In 944 engines, for example, there is debate on whether to reseal the cylinders or sleeve them--and the attendant question of whether you can reuse original pistons. Also, I would love to see a tech talk with transmission expert discussing the relative merits of different 911/912/914 manual transmissions. Many rebuilders swap out transmissions. Why?
You raise an excellent point I’d have loved to have heard their opinions on that as well. I was always told that you have the machine work done to straighten the bores and use new pistons as the cylinder wear and skirt wear would enharently place the cylinder out of round and using a new piston in a unserved bore would Possibly create a smoker depending on how far out of round it is. Of course serviceable limits are always a factor, but on the engines I’ve built for myself or others, I’ve always had the machine work done with a minimal over bore and replaced the pistons to get an honest seal. Porsche engine I lean towards sleeving because the lining surfaces are very specific and boring them would mean you lose that lining and reduce the life of that cylinder. I’ve tried doing things the best I know how, but I’d love to know what the pros do and why- it’d add some very useful knowledge on how to approach a rebuild when I dig into my 996.2 in the future. 137,800 miles and still kicking! You made some great posts here man!
I wonder that on the 968 engine also. Reseal the cylinder or sleeve them. I have 1 car with scores on #2 that is just fine around town but I go to DE and blow through 2 quarts of oil in a day. I need to so something in the not to distant future.
We'll put this in the list of potential future topics. Thanks for watching!
This was an excellent presentation. My favorite so far. (Northeast Region)
Awesome, thank you!
Great stuff here. Very excited for SUMA bore!
Great job tonight gentlemen! I loved it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@PorscheClubofAmerica I learned so much!! It was great!
Great Video! Thank you guys for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Nicely Done, Jake ! HooAh ! Bro. !
My dream car. Thanks for the info.
Glad you enjoyed it. Be sure to subscribe.
MEZGER BABY
What a FINE session!!!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for the support.
One of the first coments in the video saying "bores and pistons are the same thing" - I was out at that point. They clearly don't understand even the basics.
JB WELD !!! AND SANDPAPER, BUT BEEEE CAREFUL 😁😁😁😁🤣🤣🍺
Here in Canada, Shell V Power has zero Ethanol, it's the only fuel we use in our 987.1 and the Macan.
Lucky!
In the US near any large lake you should be able to find ethanol free 93 octane gas. Look up the app "PureGas"
@@alexcassinelli6651 Thanks for this as we will be doing much driving in the lower 48 once the border opens.
Thanks for the information, What and why is the difference of the piston rings types and where can we use each type according to the way of the operation?
Anwer (Tripoli/Libya)
Lugging the engine should be another factor to consider along with fuel and not idling.
Seems like a car to look for would be one that didn’t use winter blend fuel .
Hi, ive got a question.
Would a cylinder get scoring if its start up and then start driving fast with it? Meaning that the engine is room temperature (30°c) and then first start and push the engine slightly (going fast on cold engine)?
And does scoring cause power loss within an engine?
And does this count for All engines including motorcycle engines?
yes to all of this
What you have stated , being on the gas pedal Before the engine is thouroghly warmed up and temp stabilized IS the biggest factor to scoring .
The piston from heating too quickly warms faster than the cylinders .
I drive my 997 like a normal car, that is, shifting at about 3k - 4k rpm's, cruising at 2500-3000revs, etc. But some guys say you have to drive them at high revs like 4k - 6500. Does operating the engine at the higher revs have any effect on the likelihood of bore scoring?
Not sure 🤔 but operating at higher revs definitely puts more smiles on your face!
Warm the oil before raising rpm. I run shifts at 3,000 in our Boxster, until oil reaches 150F. The 4000, after 180F let’s have fun.
Mark Dzendrowski from Chicago
Thanks for the education.
I have a questions to prevent my 996 C4S from it.
1.Which oil is good ? Thicker or lighter.
Currently using Fuchs race 10W50 , moved from 5W40 or 5W50 Mobil1.
Changing every 6 months less than 5000km.
2. I do idle for a while before driving out.
Instruction says to drive immediately after starting up. Which is better ?
TIA
Lake Speed just left Driven Racing Oils where he helped create their oils. I couldn't post their website for you. I guess Google blocks commerce and conservative politics. Similar insanity... I use DT40. Has ZDDP and a better wear package. I actually use their other weight oils in my other cars too.
The oil weight you should use should fall into the parameters in the user manual, which is based on ambient temperature. While we won't make an oil brand recommendation here, your car should be using synthetic. It's better to drive immediately after starting rather than waiting for the car to warm up, as driving will warm the oil and engine up more quickly. Until the engine is at the correct temp, it will run rich at idle. The longer it runs rich at idle, before the engine comes up to temp, the longer the tolerances between pistons and bores are out of normal spec, meaning fuel can more easily blow by the piston rings and contaminate the oil. This is exacerbated when the ambient temp is cold. Over time, this will accelerate the wear of your engine.
Can we do video on cold start misfires?
Misfire only on cold start.
Was really interested in a yellow 997.2 but sorry I'm totally scared away from the Porsche brand and the hype around it. I wanted to pull the trigger on a 996.1 - heard about bore scoring and IMS issues. Moved up to 997.2 and hearing bore scoring is a bigger issue - "it's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when". Then you spend about $25k to fix it? I'll pass
Hey Lake! Lets see a nikasil vs sumebore video!
How about 991.2 engines?
I need a pair of your coveralls
I need another pair too. Found these at a swap meet in Germany a few years ago. They are Bosch factory coveralls.
Not included sleeved cylinders in those era engine blocks were Porsches biggest mistake .
would fuel recommended for marine operation be preferred i.e. ethanol free?
Dang been waiting for a week and missed the live lol.
I've loved Porsche for as long as I can remember. I'm finally at the point to buy one within my range but with so many worries I'm scared to death to pull the trigger and be left with an expensive paper weight.
Is it better to buy cheap and immediately do a Rebuild or buy at the Top of your price range and Hope you got lucky?
All purchases will have a PPI done by a Licensed Porsche Dealership, but even knowing this I still fear buying a paper weight.😫
We'd suggest buying the best example your budget allows. Also consider doing a PPI at a shop that specializes in the model you are interested in. You can also reach out to the local PCA region for shop recommendations.
Follow the advice of Vu. Get a PPI and enjoy the car in your budget. The internet will give scary views of everything. Example Toyota removed the Tundra transmission cooler. The internet is loaded with why you need to install a cooler. If you tow that heavy and that often a 250 diesel is the truck for the job. Learn about the model you are interested in .
Why not use Nikasil on ALL Porsches instead of using it on some models and not on others within the same generation? Another issue is the Bore to Stroke ratio. How many bore scoring issues are on the sides of the bore and not in-line with the connecting rod? None of my daily drivers have ever had a bore scoring issue, but then none of them were Porsches.
Does this seem to happen more on the 3.4 rather than the 2.7?
What what you guys suggest to do with a 3.0 968 engine with some scoring issues, mostly in cyl #2, to the point where the oil use is elevated and 1 day of DE goes through 2 quarts of oil but daily use there is nearly no oil consumption. I dont DE it anymore.
Bore scoring has completely scared me off of a Porsche. The new ones are too expensive for normal people now..and now the used ones are all time bombs. Really a big deal. Plan is a z06 now...for carrera t prices....um, no brainer.
Solid option. We hope the video was helpful.
So how much oil usage on a 997.2 engine is classified as normal?
Oil usage on modern cars really should be nothing or negligible. If not, then there's likely a leak somewhere, or the engine is high-mileage. A high-mileage engine might burn some oil, which is normal, but know that at some point (hopefully far down the line) the engine will need to be rebuilt.
Why dont you use Darton sleeves? How is coating with cast iron better than a Darton Sleeve?
From a thermodynamic and mechanical perspective, a coated cylinder is better than a sleeved cylinder. Cast iron liners as you mentioned are an option, but they do have drawbacks.
@@TotalSeal, can you please explain the drawbacks, I'm genuinely interested. Obviously, Jake is a legend, but these guys are interesting, too. What's your opinion of their soup, and why?
www.europeanpartssolution.com/rebuilt-porsche-engines
@@frankiolo the biggest issues are related to heat transfer and thermal expansion. A coated aluminum bore still conducts heat and expands in a similar manner as aluminum. A ductile sleeve does not, because it is a different material. Also, an iron wet sleeve can lead to bi-metallic corrosion in an aluminum block. There are steps you can take to remedy that, but the point is that each of these "soups" has their own pros and cons. At this point, the research indicates SUMEbore offers the potential to be a superior "soup" in comparison to current aftermarket solutions, but we still have many miles of testing to go before we can say anything conclusive.
There is more information about the SUMEbore technology available at www.EnginePerformanceExpo.com. On Day 1 videos, Jake and Lake have a more in-depth discussion about SUMEbore technology.
What would you suggest on a 3.0 968 engine with cylinder scoring? sleeve or reseal?
@@kzem968 Nikasil sleeves are the highest performance, longest lasting solution.
@@lakespeedjr.304 Thank you for the advice. Do you know any recommended companies to do that on this type of engine?
@@kzem968 LN Engineering does a great job with the Nikasil coated liners. I used them in my 986.
@@lakespeedjr.304 Thank you again.
Contribution of high pressure fuel injection in disrupting the lubrication layer?
Direct Injection can impact fuel dilution of the lubricating oil film on the cylinder wall.
Steve knoll Saratoga ny
Xin chào việt nam
Beware of eBay rebuilds nein lives just got me for big$$$ the motor lasted 1700 miles has bore score . They will not honor warranty. Thieves