Tips On Shooting Film - Ilford Delta 100
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 เม.ย. 2024
- Mistakes to avoid, and tips to improve your photographs while using Ilford's Delta 100 Black and White film. Rob shares images from a trip to the rockies where he used Delta100 and a Pentax 645 shooting b&w landscape photos.
This video is NOT sponsored.
The "Digitaltruth Massive Dev Chart" can be found here... www.digitaltruth.com/devchart...
Do you have a question? Ask in the comments section.
Rob Skeoch is a career photographer, working for five newspapers and wire services before joining the team at Major League Baseball for 17 seasons and the NFL for 14 seasons. Then he was a national manager for the camera group at Sony North America before going back to shooting.
Now he shoots for gallery shows around the world, mostly street work and portraits made with a Rollei twin lens. For 35mm shooting he uses a Nikon F3 and a couple M-mount Leica cameras and shoots mostly Ilford film.
tips for shooting black and white film, Delta100, Delta 100, Delta400, Delta 400, HP5 FP4Pan F Ilford Zeiss ZM Distagon Summaron Biogon Leica Leica R6.2 R6.2 R6 Nikon Nikon F3 Nikon F3T Nikon FM3A Pentax Pentax LX Pentax MX Canon Canon F1 Canon New F1Minolta Minolta X-700 Olympus Olympus OM4 Olympus OM3 Olympus OM4T Olympus OM3T Contax Kodak Fiilmprocessing darkroom black and white b&w developing film at home developing black and white filmdeveloping 35mm filmdeveloping roll film loading film developing reels loading 35mm film on reel loading 35mm film loading 35mm into development tank #blackandwhitephotography, #filmphotography, #blackandwhite, #filmprocessing, #film, #bw, #ilfordhp5, #filmisnotdead, #blackandwhitephoto, #filmcamera, #35mmfilm, #leica, #nikon, #darkroom, #darkrooms, #film, #filmcamera, , #leica, #leicasociety, #ilford, #120film, #rolleiflex #rollei, #gitzo #kodak, #kodakfilm35mm #kodaktmax400 #streetphotography,, photo, photography, picture, 135mm lens, 35mm film, black and white, rollei, ilford, portrait, #nikon, #canon, #pentax, #zeiss #distagon #18mm #zeisslens #leicaphotography #leica_world #leicaimages #leicalens, #leica_camera #leicam6 #nikonf3 #nikonfm2 #canon_official #minolta #olympus #Leicam6 #Leicam #hp5 #ilfordhp5 #slr #slrcamera #slrcanon #hasselblad #hasselblad_camera #pentax67 #pentax645 #fuji #rolleiflex #largeformat #viewcamera #ebonycamera #deardorff - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Being a professional mechanical engineer for 40+ yrs I truly appreciate your knowledge and professionalism in photography. Being a self-taught amateur photographer for 40+ yrs I truly appreciate your experience and generosity as you share it for free. Subscribed and liked. Thanks.
Reduced agitation is a useful tool in the box. I do 30 seconds at the start to get things going, then only 2 invertions at 1/3 time and 2 more at 2/3 time and that's it. Works with HP5+ @ ei200 like a charm. Just adjust the total time for more or less contrast.
Thanks, a great tip!!
Thanks, I'm glad you're enjoying the show!
We don’t hear much mention of a tripod nor a monopod from the 1-roll reviewers!
Thanks again, Rob.
Yes: -30° is “fresh” in Canada. In Calgary it’s “cooling off for sleeping”.
I appreciate all your hints and you learning from hundreds of failures. The latter are my specialty. (Victoria, BC).
Glad it was useful. Talking about being 'fresh', we went diving yesterday at Tobermory, on the great lakes. The water was 2C, again, a bit of a 'fresh' dive.
Lots of great tips and information
Thanks for the kind words.
Great video! A wealth of information.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Absolutely wonderful video Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge. I have never shot much Ilford so this will help as I have been starting to shoot Ilford 100. I always enjoy videos by people with the knowledge and experience in photography. Sometimes we see those on you tube playing expert on film stocks after shooting a few rolls. I have personally shot and developed hundreds of rolls of Tri-X for over 30 years in professional and personal work, and can say it does take many years to learn to expose, develop, print and diagnose issues, and I am still learning. I just enjoy sharing my knowledge and experience for those new to film photography, especially the younger generation. Your videos are a valuable wealth of knowledge.
Glad you're enjoying the shows. I used Tri-x for years at the newspaper, then we switched to TMAX when it came out.
Good video Rob. I started shooting film (120) over the past year so love the channel. I currently send film to the lab to develop but would love to do it at home. Maybe you can do a video on practical hands on film development. Equipment, process, costs, etc.
Good idea, I'm planning to do that this week.
Great video. I love my mamiya 645 pro tl for the combination of portability, ease of use, negative that prints nicely to larger sizes and 15 frames per roll that I can finish and cost factor enables more experimentation. The monopod is a great tool and can live under the flap of my bag til needed and then enables carrying the camera on it over the shoulder. I shoot fp125 at 100 but keep another back loaded with tmax 400 at 250 for lower light or more dof. Third back is portra 400 @ 200. Switched from xtol to ddx and now hc110 and am liking the results and the drop in cost from $3 a roll to 80 cents. I had loaded a back with Rollei IR a year ago and didn't have an IR opportunity but the beauty of that film is you can shoot it as a normal b&w film with yellow filter on the same roll with IR. Unlike traditional IR film, it has an anti halation layer so plan on shooting it with a softar filter to see if that produces the halation effect in camera. I notice you shoot out of a vest too. Have a ventilated one for hot days and a genuine African safari jacket, epaulets and belt reminiscent of the 70's photo journalists. A place for everything needed and readily at hand. Mine have my email on the back and logo on the front, free advertising. Love your panama hat and am considering one for our approaching warm weather. Liked it in the movie Kodachrome too. What did Sam Elliot say in Big Lebowski, I like your style, dude.
Thanks, glad you're enjoying the videos. Using the softar filter might be a good idea, I'm going to try that as well. I shot my first and only roll of the IR, it's in the endless que of film to be processed.
Great video- I have always used red or yellow filters for b&w, and never been all that satisfied. After seeing your earlier video, I started cutting box speed in half and got an orange YA2 filter- now I have the sort of contrast I wanted in the winter. I could never figure out how other people were able to shoot b&w with snow on the ground and get good results- you solved it for me! Now I don't have to just use color for 6 months of the year anymore.
Thanks, We're making progress. Just a few more fails and we'll be there.
Lots of good info.
Thanks, glad you're enjoying the videos.
Nice pictures! Have you tried delta with Ilford DD-X or Kodak Tmax Developer? If there is an event or some other indoor location, I do Delta 400 @ 1600 and develop in Ilford DD-X. The developer costs a huge bunch and doesn't keep well when opened, but it really works some magic on that film. Even on 35mm there is just a subtle, normal grain like you usually get on 35mm, nothing crazy like you would expect from a two stop push. Sure there is contrast, but with correct metering it doesn't lose detail and it doesn't lose the midtones either. Now that Kodak Tmax Developer is back in stock, it costs about half what DD-X is where I live. I'll probably experiment on that too.
When we shot TMAX at the newspapers back in the day, we used TMAX developer. I thought it was a wonderful combo but could never duplicate the results at home that we got at the paper.
Awesome shots and advise. I used id11 years ago then switched to D76 because it was in stock and cheaper. I’ve never used delta I always shoot fp4 hp5 and tmax but of late I’ve been shooting rollei rpx again as it’s cheaper I quite like the results.
It's great to try that Rollei film, I've been trying a few rolls myself.
@@stillshootinginblackandwhite just developed a roll I shot yesterday in a canon L3 with a elmar lens chuffed to bits with the results I shot it at box speed but will do some research now see what’s best to shoot it at
run a few tests at the end of a roll. Start at the box speed then open up 1/2 stops. You only need 3-4 frames at the end of a roll. It's never higher than the box speed.
Run a small test at the end of a roll. It's just 3-4 frames. Shoot at box speed then open up 1/2 stop, then again. It's never higher than box speed.
For me the first step in shooting Ilford Delta films is to cry. You know, full on ugly weeping. I shot a LOT of it back when Fuji started axing films. I was desperate to find an in-production alternative to Neopan and Acros. I got some nice shots on Delta but my main learning was do not even bother shooting in anything but hard, constraty lighting. All of my negatives in nice soft light, whether I used xtol or rodinal, were lifeless grey mush. Though I did get good results in some lighting, I just never got along with this one. I do like your results, though. They seem to be in the same kind of light that I preferred for Delta. Oh, also on a personal level I tended to rate it at 50-64 as well. 100 was definitely... optimistic. In the end I just moved away from Delta/T-Max and used what Acros I could get, or HP5 for larger formats, until eventually I just a long break from photography.
Glad you're back shooting. I find the Delta 100 has a lower 'micro-contrast' that can become an issue.
Rob, you are a great teacher. Please elucidate: towards the end of your video, you mention the use of the orange filter after your comment of "Delta 100 at ASA 60 should go with 125 at f5.6 in a full sun..." Wouldn't this turn the f stop into 2.8 or the speed at 50-80 or thereabouts?
If you shoot at ISO 60.
The sunny 16 rule says in full sun the exposure is 1/60 at f16.... equivalent to 1/125 at f11.
Now you add a filter that sucks two stops so with the filter on the exposure is 1/125 at f5.6.
Now take the photo.
If you use the meter in the camera and the meter reads through the lens, like most do, then do what the meter says with the filter on.
@@stillshootinginblackandwhite Thank you. I am older than you. In my youth the sunny rule of f16 was matched with 1/100.
That would likely work too. lol. enjoy.
When i was in school around y2k Ilford agitation was 10 seconds every 60. Agitation for Rodinal was 5 seconds every 30.
I really don't worry about agitation anymore. I have a b's processor or just do semi-stand with 510pyro or rodinal.
There are some really neat newish developers out there. I'm enjoying playing with pyro, an hc110 clone and flic's ascorbic developer. I got a weird italian developer in the mail yesterday.
I hope you have better luck with the maco film than i did. Every time i use it i have a catastrophic chemical or weird camera failure. Nothing inherently wrong with the stock it just was a magnet for malfunction.
For years I only shot one or two films but in the past year or so I've been trying a bunch of new ones. Someone gave me the High Speed Kodak Infrared, which hasn't worked but got me interested in trying new films, which has been fun.
@@stillshootinginblackandwhite i spent last year playing with all the newish film stocks and developers. Maybe 50 rolls. After all that play and experimentation i'm shooting kentmere and short date foma.
That's interesting. Is the Kentmere similar to HP5 or have it's own look that you enjoy?
@@stillshootinginblackandwhite k400 pulled to 100 and souped in rodinal it's one of my favorite combos. More times than not i push it 1 or 2 stops in hc110 clones.
I never really shot much hp5 so i can't give you a proper comparison. I do like it better than foma in most applications.
When short date foma is five bucks a roll it's hard to say no.
Yeah, I hear you about the price of film.
Thanks for this. Did the filter help keep the snow from being grey or was it adjusting to 1/60 to compensate.
No the filter doesn't affect the snow, just the blues and reds. Snow is exposure.
You might consider Pyrocat as a new developer. I love what the staining does. Like any new developer, some testing is necessary.
Yes, a few of my friends use it. Popular with the California crowd I once hung with.
Delta 100 was my favourite film until I discovered XP2.
Thanks for watching, I hope you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for the info. I will try my next roll at 60asa speed. Not sure what happened at the video end - it just seemed to finish … without having a clearly defined ending. Perhaps as you have a great intro on each video you should end it with a “stock” 20-30 second ending. ( thanks for watching - hoped you liked it - please remember to subscribe and comment - let me know if there is something you would like me to discuss/review etc. )
Thanks for the good points. Glad you enjoyed it.
Any idea how to get Acufine or Diafine developer these days?
BH Photo lists it as available.
For Delta 400, what speed would you recommend, 250?
I think that would be a great place to start. I use 250.