Very jealous of you having a working 5154! Those things are like gold! I understand you replaced certain caps but I can't tell what the final fix was that made it work. What was it?
There were several faults Bad med sized cap on the PS, bad power transistor on the PS, bad small transistor on the main board. The final thing that fixed it was a bad resistor on the PS on the 6.3V rail. I just didn't know that I fixed it because I was measuring it wrong. I was so frustrated at that point I wasn't even recording :)
@Retro Hack Shack Many thanks! These things are incredibly frustrating, but as I can tell from the video, very rewarding too! Getting a 5154 here in New Zealand is pretty much impossible, so I bought a TVM EGA monitor which looks really nice. Alas, it is faulty and I feel like I'm going to have to spend a _very_ long time with it. I don't know if I have the energy! Great video and keep up the good work. If you ever feel like a collaboration at some point, let me know!
Which TVM monitor do you have ? I may have the same ^^ And I even have the manual for it which I scanned. Mine also has a problem but I think I know how to fix it, it's just going to be super tedious ...
My 5154, together with the 5162 XT 286 PC, were lying on a shelf since the mid 90's (it was my father's professional PC in the late 80's). I connected the monitor to the mains yesterday, and even without switching it on, I got the magic smoke after just a few seconds (on the very right side), I assume it's the PSU... Very happy to have found your video, I think it's gonna help me a lot... Thanks for posting this !!!
The filter caps are in circuit even if the device is not switched on. Mostly they are RIFA caps which make a lot of smoke, but otherwise they are harmless. Theroretically devices would run without them, but I like to replace them with new ones. If they last another 30-40 years that's good enough for me. ;-)
@@VintageDave thanks for te feedback ! I had no time for this lastly, and the (fixed) open monitor is lying on my bench, I even managed to loose one of the metal struts :( (nothing essential, though...). And I'm still wondering whether I should do something preventively on the PC side (apart from replacing the battery) before trying to switch it on, or even connecting it to the mains...?
@@philippeannet You could disconnect the power supply and test the power rails on the mainboard for shorts. The four pins in the middle are ground. With a multimeter you can test one of them agains all others (5V, 12V, -5, -12). If there are any shorts, remove all cards and test again, then insert one card after another. btw, somethimes a multimeter beeps but that's not always a short. A short is if it's really near 0 Ohms. When one of the tantalum capacitors fail, they often literaly explode and end up in pink (!) smoke. Sometimes you see black traces of the fire nearby. Then there is a short, and the power supply shuts off after a second. Somethimes you can also just remove them, but for stability reasons it's good to replace them with new ones with the same or better values. Some replace them with electrolyte caps, but i like to have them original. There are many many information about that on the net, I recommend to check out minuszerodegrees.net. In my experience the power supplys are very robust, even after all the years. Some might say you should swap out every cap in the whole machine, but I change them only if they fail or obviously are near the end of their life, e.g. in case of electrolyte caps if they already leak or have already a bulge on the top.
My suggestion...don't ask everyone what they want. You'll get a million different answers. Instead, I suggest doing what you want and the fans will follow. Great video.
That black goop under the PSU caps is glue that IBM used to make sure the caps don't move around and cause stress to the solder joints. Unfortunately, as the PSU bakes over time, the glue becomes carbon and sometimes even conductive and shorts things out. I tend to remove the glue when replacing the capacitors. No need to glue them back in; I highly doubt you'll be throwing your 5154 around!
Really nice to see the rare original EGA monitor restored so well, thank you. Your HDD faceplate caught my eye though. 3D Printed? Great work! I'm going to go see if you've got a video about that now... if you don't... Well, I think it would be popular!
I have replaced all the caps in my 5154 monitor's power supply, they are a known failure point for those displays. I also made a point of using caps that are rated for high heat (105C iirc). Also, I think that black stuff is the glue they use during manufacturing to hold the components in for soldering. If anyone is interested here is the list of the caps in that PSU for 110V models of the 5154 (I think 220V versions use different caps, but I am not sure), it includes the C number and pricing (outdated) and links to mouser to buy them: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1opYmxSthfMne1iTgq-3hk6MUHt6Tng-xRzXxyTO1nXQ
Thanks for this video. It helped a lot taking the 5175 apart which is assabled very similar. I think I wouldn't have figured out the way the power supply is connected without your help!
Thanks for the video. I really enjoyed it! One point for people wanting an EGA monitor; it's important to remember that EGA cards will display 16 colors on CGA monitors. They can't display the hi-res modes of EGA, but there are very, very few games that use those modes because developers generally wanted to keep backwards compatibility with CGA monitors.
I´ve got my 8518 IBM Monitor for free. From a Reseller, it is on good condition. (VGA Monitor) I just have to adjust the focus a little bit. Thank you for that Video.
Wow, you did a great job, she looks beautiful again! So glad you were able to revive the old gal. I've got a 5154 as well (see my video), and I'm lucky that it still works after all these years without issues (knock on wood!). Best regards!
If you're planning on working on CRTs, I'd recommend putting together a discharge probe. Simplest method is with a screwdriver and a lead with an alligator clip, but I made mine with a 25W resistor inline.
If I remember correctly, you *can* play prince of persia quite nice on a 5150, but use CGA mode instead of EGA mode. There is a command line option to force CGA mode, IIRC you run it as "prince cga".
very nice and informative your video. I own several CRT monitors including as many as three 5151s, I honestly still haven't wanted to check them out because I don't feel safe working with those high voltages. Interesting the part of the schematics that I will definitely want to download. Thank you and merry Christmas.
Worth it. These are so rare. I managed to snag one a few years ago, and the tube is slowly dimming. Going to have to service mine at one point, I wonder how hard it is to track down a crt rejuvenator for the 5154.
I opened up my PCjr monitor but damn, everything inside looks shiny new. I was hoping to see some bad caps to replace, and it would work. No such luck but your video certainly gives me inspiration to put more time into it..
Great video. I was a little concerned when you didn't recognize a ceramic disc capacitor, but you acquitted yourself nicely in the end! This is exactly the kind of video I like. Not big on game reviews, and unless you come up with some innovative techniques, I can live without long cleaning or Retrobriting videos. Your cleaning here was just fine, not overdone. However, I always like to point out that a cheaper and better solution to removing goo, wax and marker is plain ol' Ronsonol lighter fluid. $1.97 at Wal-Mart for a good-size bottle.
Thanks for the tip! Lighter fluid and WD-30 are definitely in my box of tricks for stickers and goo, but I tend not to use them because of the smells. Perhaps I will do a comparison at some point to see which one works best. I just need something with 3 or more stickers on it :)
What a great video about a great repair! Keep up the great work you do on this channel! Some time ago I repaired the power supply on my 5153. I "snatched" it from a recycling station :) It took some work to make it work again, but IBM has built a really amazing quality here. Btw. The intro music and the artwork are very appealing and fit perfectly. Who are the artists?
the "black gunk" is to hold the caps in place. I see many people getting into video game monitor repair that think it's cap leakage, but alas no, it's so the caps don't physically randomly fall off during shipment. I'm just at the part in the video seeing the bulged filter caps, that'll definitely kill it. moving onward...
@@RetroHackShack yeah you're just dealing with some ancient technology LOL. also the hot areas on the board (that you identified) will often develop some breakdown of the solder. you apparently got lucky this time though. I've never had to work on one of these before so I didn't know what to expect.
Yeah. That's a good point! I was constantly looking for broken joints, but didn't show that in the video. Sometimes I just redo them all especially around the "hot areas". Great tip!
That is one beautiful monitor .... really great video and fix. also lucky enough to own one .... unfortunately not really comfortable working on old monitors and I have lots that need repairing :(
Hello, very nice video and project! You have my subscription:) Can you tell me, do you had areas on this screen case where the color was scratched away? It seems to be In the upper left area in the front. Do you had repainted it in the restoration process? Best regards Stefan
@@RetroHackShack Can you tell me, what RAL or Pantone number the coler had that you are chosen? I have the same issue and don’t know, what color is the right…
Hi, tnx 4 a very nice educational video. I am curious to know what the little looped conector sticking out of the power chassie is serving. Is it maybe a 110/230 V conversion?
Nice video. Very informative. I've got a very similar problem with mine. I've recapped power supply as I had quite a few bad caps, No static on tube so I'm thinking power supply is still not working 100%. I'm getting 140V on the collector pin of T5 and T6. Do you think my switch transistors (MJE13005) are bad?
I love your capacitor tester, it's just what I need so please tell me what it's called and the best place to buy one. I have 4 of these suckers (5154s) to fix
The one I showed in the video is pretty expensive. However, I have since purchased this one and it works pretty well. www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-MESR100-V2-Ranging-In-Circuit-ESR-Capacitor-Tester-Meter-0-001-100R-Tool-/143657415706?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
@@RetroHackShack Thanks Retro I'm in Australia and that eBay item won't ship here but I still need a cap tester... expense is no problem (within reason).. I like the look of the little yellow handheld
Sorry but you refer to it as an IBM PC - and according to the square IBM badge on the front that's correct - but a 5150 shouldn't have a hard drive - or half height floppy drives - and the floppy drive should be black. Is it a PC top put on an XT chassis perhaps? - though the floppy drives would still be wrong. Otherwise good work fixing the monitor!
Yeah. People updated their equipment over time just like they do today. :) The motherboard is indeed a 5150 with the newer BIOS though and the case is a 5150 case.
I used to do this, but not anymore. I got an ESR meter so I can tell if they are bad or good. Seems like mid-90s electrolytics suck. Early 80s and before are usually fine unless they are near something hot.
I managed to get hit with an anode from an old mac - actually got a small write-up on that story in Linux Gazette ages ago :P linuxgazette.net/137/lg_foolish.html
Very jealous of you having a working 5154! Those things are like gold! I understand you replaced certain caps but I can't tell what the final fix was that made it work. What was it?
There were several faults Bad med sized cap on the PS, bad power transistor on the PS, bad small transistor on the main board. The final thing that fixed it was a bad resistor on the PS on the 6.3V rail. I just didn't know that I fixed it because I was measuring it wrong. I was so frustrated at that point I wasn't even recording :)
@Retro Hack Shack Many thanks! These things are incredibly frustrating, but as I can tell from the video, very rewarding too! Getting a 5154 here in New Zealand is pretty much impossible, so I bought a TVM EGA monitor which looks really nice. Alas, it is faulty and I feel like I'm going to have to spend a _very_ long time with it. I don't know if I have the energy! Great video and keep up the good work. If you ever feel like a collaboration at some point, let me know!
Will do!
Which TVM monitor do you have ?
I may have the same ^^
And I even have the manual for it which I scanned.
Mine also has a problem but I think I know how to fix it, it's just going to be super tedious ...
TVM?
Good job! Must have felt great to see it light up!
My 5154, together with the 5162 XT 286 PC, were lying on a shelf since the mid 90's (it was my father's professional PC in the late 80's). I connected the monitor to the mains yesterday, and even without switching it on, I got the magic smoke after just a few seconds (on the very right side), I assume it's the PSU...
Very happy to have found your video, I think it's gonna help me a lot... Thanks for posting this !!!
The filter caps are in circuit even if the device is not switched on. Mostly they are RIFA caps which make a lot of smoke, but otherwise they are harmless. Theroretically devices would run without them, but I like to replace them with new ones. If they last another 30-40 years that's good enough for me. ;-)
@@VintageDave thanks for te feedback ! I had no time for this lastly, and the (fixed) open monitor is lying on my bench, I even managed to loose one of the metal struts :( (nothing essential, though...). And I'm still wondering whether I should do something preventively on the PC side (apart from replacing the battery) before trying to switch it on, or even connecting it to the mains...?
@@philippeannet You could disconnect the power supply and test the power rails on the mainboard for shorts. The four pins in the middle are ground. With a multimeter you can test one of them agains all others (5V, 12V, -5, -12). If there are any shorts, remove all cards and test again, then insert one card after another. btw, somethimes a multimeter beeps but that's not always a short. A short is if it's really near 0 Ohms. When one of the tantalum capacitors fail, they often literaly explode and end up in pink (!) smoke. Sometimes you see black traces of the fire nearby. Then there is a short, and the power supply shuts off after a second. Somethimes you can also just remove them, but for stability reasons it's good to replace them with new ones with the same or better values. Some replace them with electrolyte caps, but i like to have them original. There are many many information about that on the net, I recommend to check out minuszerodegrees.net. In my experience the power supplys are very robust, even after all the years. Some might say you should swap out every cap in the whole machine, but I change them only if they fail or obviously are near the end of their life, e.g. in case of electrolyte caps if they already leak or have already a bulge on the top.
My suggestion...don't ask everyone what they want. You'll get a million different answers. Instead, I suggest doing what you want and the fans will follow. Great video.
Thanks!
That black goop under the PSU caps is glue that IBM used to make sure the caps don't move around and cause stress to the solder joints.
Unfortunately, as the PSU bakes over time, the glue becomes carbon and sometimes even conductive and shorts things out.
I tend to remove the glue when replacing the capacitors. No need to glue them back in; I highly doubt you'll be throwing your 5154 around!
Really nice to see the rare original EGA monitor restored so well, thank you.
Your HDD faceplate caught my eye though. 3D Printed? Great work!
I'm going to go see if you've got a video about that now... if you don't... Well, I think it would be popular!
Yes it is. I mentioned it in my first video.
I have replaced all the caps in my 5154 monitor's power supply, they are a known failure point for those displays. I also made a point of using caps that are rated for high heat (105C iirc).
Also, I think that black stuff is the glue they use during manufacturing to hold the components in for soldering.
If anyone is interested here is the list of the caps in that PSU for 110V models of the 5154 (I think 220V versions use different caps, but I am not sure), it includes the C number and pricing (outdated) and links to mouser to buy them: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1opYmxSthfMne1iTgq-3hk6MUHt6Tng-xRzXxyTO1nXQ
Awesome. Thanks for that list of caps.
Thanks for this video. It helped a lot taking the 5175 apart which is assabled very similar. I think I wouldn't have figured out the way the power supply is connected without your help!
Thanks for the video. I really enjoyed it!
One point for people wanting an EGA monitor; it's important to remember that EGA cards will display 16 colors on CGA monitors. They can't display the hi-res modes of EGA, but there are very, very few games that use those modes because developers generally wanted to keep backwards compatibility with CGA monitors.
Repair videos are my favorite videos. Keep em coming 👍
Thanks for that feedback
I´ve got my 8518 IBM Monitor for free. From a Reseller, it is on good condition. (VGA Monitor) I just have to adjust the focus a little bit. Thank you for that Video.
Wow, you did a great job, she looks beautiful again! So glad you were able to revive the old gal. I've got a 5154 as well (see my video), and I'm lucky that it still works after all these years without issues (knock on wood!). Best regards!
Thanks. Unfortunately something else blew, so there will be a followup at some point.
Awesome work man, really interesting video - thanks for sharing!
If you're planning on working on CRTs, I'd recommend putting together a discharge probe. Simplest method is with a screwdriver and a lead with an alligator clip, but I made mine with a 25W resistor inline.
If I remember correctly, you *can* play prince of persia quite nice on a 5150, but use CGA mode instead of EGA mode. There is a command line option to force CGA mode, IIRC you run it as "prince cga".
very nice and informative your video. I own several CRT monitors including as many as three 5151s, I honestly still haven't wanted to check them out because I don't feel safe working with those high voltages. Interesting the part of the schematics that I will definitely want to download. Thank you and merry Christmas.
Extra points for using a Radio Shack multimeter to fix an IBM EGA monitor.
Worth it. These are so rare. I managed to snag one a few years ago, and the tube is slowly dimming. Going to have to service mine at one point, I wonder how hard it is to track down a crt rejuvenator for the 5154.
Would a rejuvenator like the one Adrian has work on this tube? Maybe he should rent that out :)
@@RetroHackShack I should ask. But then I'd have to ship a tube to him without getting it smashed in transit
@@DaveJustDave By the way, how do I add this to the #DOScember playlist? Perhaps I don't have access to do that?
I opened up my PCjr monitor but damn, everything inside looks shiny new. I was hoping to see some bad caps to replace, and it would work. No such luck but your video certainly gives me inspiration to put more time into it..
It went out again. I need to do more repairs.
jajjajaja the profesional sound effects jajajjajajaj genius!!!!!
Great video. I was a little concerned when you didn't recognize a ceramic disc capacitor, but you acquitted yourself nicely in the end! This is exactly the kind of video I like. Not big on game reviews, and unless you come up with some innovative techniques, I can live without long cleaning or Retrobriting videos. Your cleaning here was just fine, not overdone. However, I always like to point out that a cheaper and better solution to removing goo, wax and marker is plain ol' Ronsonol lighter fluid. $1.97 at Wal-Mart for a good-size bottle.
Thanks for the tip! Lighter fluid and WD-30 are definitely in my box of tricks for stickers and goo, but I tend not to use them because of the smells. Perhaps I will do a comparison at some point to see which one works best. I just need something with 3 or more stickers on it :)
Nice work dude. Just discovered your channel, and enjoyed this video a lot. So glad you got it working.
Thanks!
What a great video about a great repair! Keep up the great work you do on this channel!
Some time ago I repaired the power supply on my 5153. I "snatched" it from a recycling station :) It took some work to make it work again, but IBM has built a really amazing quality here.
Btw. The intro music and the artwork are very appealing and fit perfectly. Who are the artists?
They are both stock. I think I got them from Shutter Stock.
Well done!
And I've still got my Tandy CM-5 to fix if I can ever get the time to get back to it. Hopefully once the pruning season ends.
Thank you for this immensely satisfying video!!
Glad you enjoyed it, Tom.
This was brilliant, great job.
the "black gunk" is to hold the caps in place. I see many people getting into video game monitor repair that think it's cap leakage, but alas no, it's so the caps don't physically randomly fall off during shipment. I'm just at the part in the video seeing the bulged filter caps, that'll definitely kill it. moving onward...
I haven't seen it melt all over like that though. Normally it holds up better. That threw me off for a few minutes.
@@RetroHackShack yeah you're just dealing with some ancient technology LOL. also the hot areas on the board (that you identified) will often develop some breakdown of the solder. you apparently got lucky this time though. I've never had to work on one of these before so I didn't know what to expect.
Yeah. That's a good point! I was constantly looking for broken joints, but didn't show that in the video. Sometimes I just redo them all especially around the "hot areas". Great tip!
a vacuum is good for getting rid of the shavings as soon as possible when drilling
That is one beautiful monitor .... really great video and fix. also lucky enough to own one .... unfortunately not really comfortable working on old monitors and I have lots that need repairing :(
Thanks! Love your channel BTW. I have been binge watching lately :) This reminds me to set your channel as featured.
Hello, very nice video and project! You have my subscription:)
Can you tell me, do you had areas on this screen case where the color was scratched away? It seems to be In the upper left area in the front. Do you had repainted it in the restoration process?
Best regards
Stefan
Yes. Just a little.
@@RetroHackShack
Can you tell me, what RAL or Pantone number the coler had that you are chosen? I have the same issue and don’t know, what color is the right…
No. I have no idea
There are some forum posts that discuss this though.
Hi, tnx 4 a very nice educational video.
I am curious to know what the little looped conector sticking out of the power chassie is serving. Is it maybe a 110/230 V conversion?
Great Video
Nice video. Very informative. I've got a very similar problem with mine. I've recapped power supply as I had quite a few bad caps, No static on tube so I'm thinking power supply is still not working 100%. I'm getting 140V on the collector pin of T5 and T6. Do you think my switch transistors (MJE13005) are bad?
Certainly possible.
Awesome video! Keep doing this :)
Thank you!
0:12 Kitty doesn't want to be a TH-cam star.
Sunshine is shy.
I love your capacitor tester, it's just what I need so please tell me what it's called and the best place to buy one. I have 4 of these suckers (5154s) to fix
The one I showed in the video is pretty expensive. However, I have since purchased this one and it works pretty well. www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-MESR100-V2-Ranging-In-Circuit-ESR-Capacitor-Tester-Meter-0-001-100R-Tool-/143657415706?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
@@RetroHackShack Thanks Retro I'm in Australia and that eBay item won't ship here but I still need a cap tester... expense is no problem (within reason).. I like the look of the little yellow handheld
Why do they put rivets in? That's diabolical.
I have given up on ever getting one of these. In Europe they are basically nonexistant. And can't easily import a 120V model over here.
I’d like to see a demo of apps that run in 640x350 16 color mode on this if you find the time.
I'll keep it in mind if I revisit this again.
By the boing, are you referring to when it goes through a degauss stage?
Yeah. Exactly.
Sorry but you refer to it as an IBM PC - and according to the square IBM badge on the front that's correct - but a 5150 shouldn't have a hard drive - or half height floppy drives - and the floppy drive should be black. Is it a PC top put on an XT chassis perhaps? - though the floppy drives would still be wrong. Otherwise good work fixing the monitor!
Yeah. People updated their equipment over time just like they do today. :) The motherboard is indeed a 5150 with the newer BIOS though and the case is a 5150 case.
@@RetroHackShack Has the PC being uprated or is it running a standard 5150 PSU?
@@chrislong6601 Standard. I showed some pictures in my video about adding a third floppy. th-cam.com/video/u7foE0pSlJ8/w-d-xo.html
Personally I prefer to replace all electrolytic capacitors that are over 30 years old.
I used to do this, but not anymore. I got an ESR meter so I can tell if they are bad or good. Seems like mid-90s electrolytics suck. Early 80s and before are usually fine unless they are near something hot.
I managed to get hit with an anode from an old mac - actually got a small write-up on that story in Linux Gazette ages ago :P linuxgazette.net/137/lg_foolish.html
4:12 Are those capacitors pregnant?
LOL They sure do look it. 14:12
so slow