Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Your video saved me a service call. I made the adjustments you showed and it worked. I now can adjust the resistance from easy to difficult. Knowing how the magnets work to cause resistance was the key.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp LOL. Well maybe I got a little carried away, but for you to describe something so obscure in such great detail that really helps!
My kudos for a great video, too. My NordicTrack GX5.0 Pro system is working except for the resistance adjustment. When adding or subtracting resistance, each press of the + or - is not always met with a movement of the resistance motor. When It does respond, it often goes beyond the desired point and then comes back but does not end up in the same place. My blue and yellow wire voltage is about 5.5 V going up or down. The red, white and black wires are different from the video (they are different on each side of the connector on the video but not on my machine.) The central (of the five) wire and the edge of the connector voltage is 3.3 volts. When the resistance is minimum the voltages from the outside (5th) wire to the adjacent wire (4th) is 2.03, and from the central wire to the 4th wire itis 3.10. When the resistance is maximum, those same voltages are 2.6 and 0.6, respectively. This started a couple of months ago. The power supply read about 6.2 V when not connected. Resistance motor? Control panel? By the way, I found the bearing number for the one-way bearing in the flywheel a couple of years ago and was able to order it for a few bucks. I had it pressed in but probably could have installed it myself (the "official" repair is to change the $700 flywheel).
I think something has happened to your resistance motor and it is not returning an accurate signal back to the console, so the console really doesn't know where the motor is at. Unless you are seeing any wire damage or evidence of a short, (it doesn't sound like it based on your voltages), then I would suggest to replace the motor.
I have a HealthRider H35XR which I've owned since new in 2012. The electrical and mechanical configuration is very similar to that of the NordicTrack, and probably others. I have had to replace the workout resistance motor assembly twice because the 5K potentiometer has gotten intermittent which resulted in an inability to adjust workout resistance, manually or automatically. I recently purchased a used identical bike for $50 with no resistance control. Upon inspection, I found that the previous owner had incorrectly substituted a 12VDC power brick for the required 6VDC brick. The result is a toasted console board (the backlight for the display is dead, as is the resistance motor control circuit. Other functions appear to work.) So I am now on the hunt for used console replacement because I don't want to build my own as has been suggested. The boards are quite commonly used across brands, so I'm hopeful.
This is an interesting point you make about the 6v power adapter being replaced with 12 volt and causing circuit damage. I buy and sell used fitness bikes and ellipticals. About half of the ones found at thrift stores have bad/fried resistance circuits (console no longer can send proper resistance voltage to the brake magnet motor). In most cases, when I test the 6v power adapters that come with these bikes (or individual used 6v DC adapters I purchase separately from thrift stores, they have tons of them), I ALWAYS find that the voltage reads MUCH higher than the stated 6v rating. In most cases 12+ volts and higher. It is my feeling that over time, this voltage leak from these adapters is causing the highly prevalent issue we see with fried resistance circuits and ultimately leading to most people scrapping their exercise machines due to broken resistance systems. Landfills await. All for the badly made chinese 6v DC power adapters that slowly wear out and fry circuits made for 6v and 9v (as most exercise bikes and ellipticals are)
Be very careful if voltages on resistance motor are not as described in this video. Signals come from control panel and if wrong will destroy resistance motor. After destroying my first replacement resistance motor, I traced the problem to the control panel. Replacing the control panel ($250) plus resistance motor ($70) plus shipping costs, close to ($400) is a tough pill to swallow. Poor design by Nordic Track to not have either some overload protection on resistance motor, think limit switches, or some repair cheaper than replacing control panel. I'm electing to put in a rocker switch and limit switches to manually control resistance. Lose some functionality from control panel but resistance will still be controllable.
I have a Healthrider H35xr exercise bike. It has a motorized tensioner just like in your video to control the resistance via a magnet. The panel will increase the resistance but not decrease it. I applied a multi-meter and get positive 3.28v from the panel when increasing the resistance to the sensor and 5.98v to the motor. But I don't get a reverse or negative voltage when decreasing the resistance. I've disconnect and check the motor via a 9v battery and can get the motor to go in both directions and I when I manually turn the sensor, I get a voltage increase and decrease between the 3.28v and 0v. I've check for continuity in the five wire harness and all wires are good. To reset the bike to it's lowest setting I have to disassemble the motorized tensioner and manually turn the senor back to it's lowest setting corresponding to the lowest setting on the panel. When I reassemble it again, I can increase the resistance via the panel but there it remains no matter the increased setting I leave it at. Does this mean something in panel is bad?
I'm at a loss. My resistance system works perfectly as long as its not under load (cable not connected to brake magnets in flywheel). I press resistance up button or press a discrete resistance level number button and the motor rotates to that position, and I'm reading 4.7 volts across the blue and yellow wires. However, as soon as I connect the cable to the brake magnets and try this same experiment under load, I'm only getting. 0.29 volts reading across the blue and yellow wires and the motor just hums with no movement. What could the cause of this be? Only when under load does the system not function properly. Interestingly, I can then disconnect the motor from the console harness and even a single AA battery will operate the motor and pull the brake magnets through the full range of motion. So, something is happening under load with the position sensor. I've tried 4 resistance motors and all have the same effect.
Hello. I have the NordicTrack E7 sv, and my resistance is broken.. The display acts like everything is working, showing resistance levels, but there is no resistance. In your video,, I noticed a battery in the resistance motor. Do all of them have that, and could that be a reason mine doesn't work? I would presume the battery is just to keep memory of where the resistance is currently at. Great video!
Hi, I'm sorry to hear your resistance is not working. What I presume you are calling a battery is actually a potentiometer. There is no battery used in the resistance motors.
Amazing how a fitness product requires that so many people must became an experienced support technician just to use a product we paid hundreds (or thousands) or dollars.... From a customer perspective its bizarre that Proform transfer all responsbaility to the owner for the lack of quality of their products. Working in the Service support industry for +20 years this is one the worst services I encountered!
I have an Nordic track eliptical e8.2. I have adjusted the resistance nuts and the resistance motor turns the cable but the cable is not pulling the plastic part near the magnet down. Any advice?
Greetings, thanks for the information, very useful, I have a problem with the system that no longer generates resistance, that is, regardless of the level of resistance applied, it does not brake, do you know how I can fix it, the system is the same as that shown at the beginning of the video, or the part where you can buy, thanks.
i have a lifecore R100 rower, and 1 of the 4 gears insider the motor has a few teeth that are stripped causing the gear to repeatedly slip. I can't find anyone selling the 701 motor, and for the life of me i can't identify the plastic gear i need to replace (20mm wide, 40t/12t, ~3mm bore). Any suggestions?
Great video and many great responses. I have a NordicTrac Elite 490 recumbunt bike that the disply always lites up but you can only read whats on the diplay for a second or two at a time as it stays lit but you can only see things faintly in the background. It kinda flickers and clicks when it goes off and on. Sometimes after I peddle for a while the resistance motor works up and down but not always. So I'm guessing the motor works but there is a short flickering the power to the motor from the control board. Hope that all makes since. I love the bike and I've had it for years. Is there any way I can run power directly to the resistance motor from where it comes in at the ac plug? Al I need is the resistance to work, the display would be nice but I really don't use it except for knowing the resistance and time but I can use a timer for the time. Thanks in advance, Mike
It sounds like you need a new console. You probably can find a way to run the motor directly but I don't have any modification videos. There are several out there on TH-cam however. You may also want to consider upgrading your machine. Some of the Features in todays modern consoles are amazing.
I have a Nordictrack act elliptical. There is no wire for tension but rather a metal bar that attaches to the tension motor and the other end to a magnet. Increasing tension on the console sends the motor into almost full circle. It will not reverse when decreasing the resistance or reset when the console turns off. Any help with this type of tension motor would be appreciated. Thanks
its the same motor just a different resistance mechanism. if the motor is not adjusting but goes in a full circle it seems like the motor may need to be replaced.
how do i re attach my tension cable on my Nordic Track GX 4.7 to the eddy mech? I bought a used machine today and the tension cable is not attached to any plastic piece inside the eddy mech, when I took it apart the cable was just sitting inside the eddy mech attached to nothing basically. Could the tension on the eddy mech plastic piece could have drawn the plastic piece up inside of the eddy mech?
The resistance cable should have a small bead on the end that connects to the slider piece of the eddy mech. There is a small hole with a slot in it. Put the bead into the hole and run the cable through the slot. If the parts are broken then they may need to be replaced.
Hello. I have a Nordictrack E 6.7 Lift. The resistance even when it’s on the minimum setting is too strong. A friend and I took apart the elliptical when we watch this video and verified that the motor does indeed work when we select different settings we shortened the cable so that on setting one the cable retracts all the way down to the bottom of the slot. I was hopeful that would fix it. But it did not. Do you have any videos or suggestions of where to look next?
Heya 👋 Thanks for video was super informative 👍 I’ve recently got hold of an old exersize bike and the resistance is not working at all 😔 I have taken the case off and turned it on and found that the resistance motor does not turn when the resistance is changed. So I am assuming that this part is old and broken. If what I am concluding is correct, please could you inform me if this part is fixable or if I should purchase a new resistance motor. 🔧 If I should purchase one can any replacement of eBay work or could I face compatibility issues ? Thanks in advance for any help 🙏🏽
I made the adjustments and it resulted in some improvement. Is there anything else that I can do? The resistance is still more difficult that it should be.
The motor should not be moving at all if there is no voltage on the yellow and blue wires. The movement implies that it is receiving power. If it is receiving power but unable to pull the cable or link arm then I would replace the motor.
I have a pro form elliptical 510ex that blew the dual channel Mosfet to control the tension motor. Can you tell me what part number the Mosfet is so I can replace it?
I have an eliptical bike that stopped sending voltage to the tension motor, I replaced the console and now the tensioner motor works but turns way to far, like it's not reporting the position correctly, the console is supposed to be the same but it's not working correctly, I think it has to do with the position sensor resistance, when the the position travels farther than it should do you think it should have more or less resistance?
it may be that the resistance cable is wrapped the wrong way on the motor. I would remove the cable from the motor and then move the resistance to the highest position. Then re-attach the cable to the motor.
I have a nordictrack elliptical se9i and the resistance levels are opposite. So level 1 is actually level 24 and vice versa, for all the levels. How can I fix this?
It is possible that the resistance cable is wound the wrong way around the resistance motor so it is winding up the cable instead of releasing it as you increase the resistance. This can happen if parts are replaces and the cable is reconnected in the wrong way. Some times this can also happen if the gears in the motor slip and the cable jumps out of the track on the motor after being wound to tightly or to long, which may require a new resistance motor.
So with my Norditrack GX 2.5 bike, it appears the magnets are always engaged. The motor is brand new and winds and unwinds no problem, but the cable does not respond, other than unwinding from the motor. Am I right in guessing I need a new cable?
Thank You very much. I was getting a strange noise which was accompanied by immediate resistance and without completely tearing it apart yet I watched this and my orange plastic piece does not move but stays down. Now I know what the problem is just need to figure out how to fix it. It is useless to me the way it is. I have a New Balance 6100. Again thank you.
Hi. Great video. Thanks. I have a proform 12.9 and resistance motor is not moving. New motor did not move either except for about a half a second when first hooked up. I did your voltage tests. I got a positive voltage with increasing resistance on the console at the yellow and blue wires. Nothing when decreasing the resistance ( no negative voltage). Also, the red and black wires have the correct voltage but I get nothing between the white and black wires. Is the problem the console? Would the motor control board cause this?
you should have voltage between the white and black wires. If not you may have a damaged white wire you likely have a broken loose or disconnected wire (white wire) in the wiring.
@@joelhansford8364 If the console thinks that the motor is already in a minimum or maximum position because of the white wire it stands to reason that it would not attempt to move in one of those directions and could explain the 0 voltage.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Hi again and thanks so far. I may have tested incorrectly initially. I get different results with the motor plugged in vs just testing the terminals without the motor plugged in. With the motor plugged in (both the original and a new motor), there is no voltage in either direction between the yellow/blue wires. The white/black/red wires all have voltage as they should. Without the motor plugged in, there is no voltage between the black/white wires, normal voltage between the black/red wires, and voltage between the yellow/blue wires only with increasing resistance at the console (nothing going down). I checked all wires for continuity between the control board and the motor harness (fine). What is your diagnosis doctor? Would replacing either the control board or console solve this problem? I am willing to try either/both.
Great video!! But I'm still having the same problem even after changing the resistance motor. I get a clicking noise at low resistance levels and have to increase the resistance to 4 or so to get it to stop...and what I found by looking at the motor while change the resistance is that disc on the motor is trying to turn and it can't rotate all the way and is clicking when it gets stuck. Almost as of there's not enough cable to allow it to turn all the way to what would be resistances level one. Any suggestions please?
first make sure the cable is routed the correct direction around the motor. I find it helpful to install the cable to the motor at the highest resistance level thig gives the most cable to work with when attaching it to the motor. After attaching the cable you can make adjustments to the cable length by adjusting the barrel nut on the cable as shown in this video.
When the voltages on the potentiometer are not as described and the wires ring true back to the control panel, is the control panel the source of the problem? How do you verify this? Do I have to replace the entire control panel with its three circuit boards?
Hi there. After watching your video, I was wondering if you could answer this question. I have a Lifefitness 95x elliptical which I bought used. It was in rough shape, so I changed both the timing belts and drive belt. It was almost impossible to pedal despite the fact that I had taken the tension off the belt to the point where it almost slipping off. So a tech said to replace the control board, which I did. That made the resistance a little better, but I still find it's too high. I thought it might be the generator brake controller, but after watching a few videos, I'm not so sure. They seem to be saying you will have no resistance if the controller goes bad. I have the opposite case. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I am really not familiar with that elliptical as it is from a competing brand but it seems that if you remove the belt to the resistance generator and everything is moving freely, you may have an issue with the resistance generator. If you still have high amounts of resistance you may have an issue with your flywheel or crank bearings. I agree it seems like without the control board there should be little resistance from the generator so it seems like it may be a generator issue and not a control board.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Thanks for the quick reply. I'm going to isolate the issue by removing the belt as you suggested and then use the process of elimination. Thanks again.
Apparently I have an odd assembly. I don't have a turn-the-thread thing to adjust, I have a plastic arm that goes from the motor to the back of the magnet and it doesn't appear to be adjustable :( Only possible tiny adjustment I can see is where the motor screws to the machine it is slotted so there is a small amount of adjustment, but not much. Worse, I can't see a way to even get in one of the screws even with a stubby screw driver. Unless I take a lot of stuff apart that is. I have the norditrack E7Sv. Is it just a cheap elliptical and they couldn't be bothered to put in an adjustment turnbuckle like I see in all these videos? Any idea if there is a way to adjust the tension? I'm trying to make resistance greater.
As you point out there is not much adjustment designed into that style of resistance. If you are looking to increase resistance you may be able to put some kind of shim or washer under the motor bracket. That may move the magnet bracket closer to the flywheel.
Great video. Really appreciate the explanation of voltage expectation. I buy lots of pre-owned fitness equipment and BY FAR the number 1 issue I find is that the resistance motor is perfectly fine but the console no longer sends a signal to the resistance motor even though the console beeps as you change resistance levels and otherwise acts as if everything is perfect, there is no voltage being passed to the motor. Why is this so prevalent? Is there a fix or hack to bypass the issue?
I have this exact same issue too. I think it's time I go fully mechanical spin bike - Screw this electronic crap! My bike only made it to 66 hours and has crapped out already. JUNK!!!
If anyone here has actually opened up one of the consoles on an elliptical or exercise bike and repaired a broken/fried resistance controller circuit, can you please make or share a video showing the components involved and how you fixed it? I buy, sell and repair these machines and I find the #1 issue is bad resistance circuits (My guess is likely due to the 6v power adapters leaking voltage over time - most of them meter out at 12+ volts DC after a few years of use and likely are frying the resistance circuits).
Recently I replaced the resistance motor. Now the when I increase the resistance on the console the resistance decreases, and vice versa. Is there a chance I flipped the connector when I installed the motor? Or did I buy the wrong motor that has opposite rotation directions?
Yes I did the same thing at first. Then I realized I had to set the tension at the highest level before putting in the pin. That way when I lowered the resistance on the panel it would wind up the cable and pull it away from the magnets.
What if the voltage on the potentiometer voltages are not as described? My red and black wires are 3 volts. Black and white voltage is 0. Every time the unit is powered up the blue wire has 6 volts. Problems started because resistance motor destroyed itself stripping gears and over winding potentiometer. My testing was done by hooking up new 5K pot and using motor from broken resistance motor.
If the black and white voltage is 0 volts I would be concerned. That the Pot on the motor has failed or that depending on where you are measuring voltage there may be an issue with the wiring. most consoles will attempt to lower the resistance to level 1. If the console is not receiving a position signal on the white wire then most consoles will send voltage out to the resistance motor constantly until the signal on the white wire indicates being in the first resistance position. If you have tried a new pot i would double check the wires.
Fitness Equipment Help As you describe every time the unit powers up the motor runs to set resistance to lowest setting. Since the motor is not currently connected to the pot it runs until it times out even if I manually control pot to lowest setting. It is not getting any feedback. As you suggested I rang out wire harnesses all the way back to the machine interface board in the control box. They rang true. Ringing them thru to the motherboard gave resistance reading across wires. For instance white at resistance motor showed 2000 ohms at motherboard. White to red measured 1800 ohms,white to black(2200 ohms),white to blue(650ohms), and white to yellow(1000 ohms). The wires are obviously interconnected thru the motherboard but now I'm stuck. It does not seem to be a problem with the wiring, so where do I go from here?
@@annakoelsch7490 Hello Anna, What was the solution with your resistance motor? I have the same issue you have described and I suspect the pot to be broken. Your feedback will help to do perform the good reparation! Thanks
That will depend on which model you have. The late model units have a magnetic bracket attached to a link arm by 2 nuts. By loosening the nut in the direction you want to move the link arm, then by tightening the other nut, you can adjust the position of the magnet along the link arm.
Hi. I'm trying to replace the tension motor on my Proform 325 CSX but I can't loosen the wire connected to the old one so I can't disconnect it. I tried pushing down (and up) the resistance mech but it won't budge. Would you have any advice for me?
I'm guessing the motor wont turn at all and that is why you are replacing it. Typically I would suggest raising the resistance so you could get some slack when pushing the mech slider toward the center of the mech. you may be able to get some slack by lengthening the cable at the barrel nut similar to what is shown in this video. The video below shoes some detail of the process once you have some slack in your cable at the 1:50 mark: th-cam.com/video/uN_VVdxBjgE/w-d-xo.html
When watching the video, I noticed the wire harness and the plug for the resistance motor have a different order of wire colors. The wire harness is Bl/Y/R/W/B, and on the motor plug it is Y/Bl/B/W/R. Is this correct wiring? Seems both the power wires and the sensor wires are reversed. Is this case where two wrongs make a right? My machine wiring is the same as the video. I'm confused, what is the correct sequence?
That's a good way to explain it. That two wrongs make a right. By switching the yellow and blue wires the resistance motor will operate in reverse. switching the red and black wires also reverses the voltage reading through the rheostat. doing this allows the same programming and resistance motors to be used in applications where the motor winds the cable to increase resistance and in applications where the motor winds the cable to decrease the resistance on differently designed of bikes and ellipticals.
Hello! Awesome content. Maybe someone can give me a hand. I noticed that the range of motion of the resistence motor is very limited. I by that I mean that between the Resistance 1 and 20, the wheel doesn't turn more than 1/6 of turn. Would that be sensor or the control panel? Thank you all!! Regards
My Nordic Track 990 Pro increases resistance on its own.When you first get on it the resistance is fine, after a few strides it increases to max. Any suggestions ?
Any chance the resistance up and down buttons also seem to be backwards? When you first turn on the unit most bikes and ellipticals will move the resistance magnet brackets to the lowest position. On some motors if the resistance cable has popped out of the track the resistance can be reversed, so when you start up it now goes to the highest resistance position. This may be able to be resolved by re routing the resistance cable on your resistance motor.
The eddy mech is held together with a retaining ring on the axle. one extricated from the bike/elliptical use a pair of retaining ring pliers to remove the ring and the mech part should slide out of the flywheel with some force as the magnets in the mech will still be attracted to the flywheel.
i just replaced the resistance motor and reconnected the wire responsible for the resistance adjustment. the keys on my display are working and responding to increase / decrease of resistance but - the resistance motor is not turning. what would be my next step of trouble shooting?
when the console is sending voltage to tun the motor you should be able to measure voltage between the yellow and blue wires. if voltage is present but the motor does not turn, the motor should be replaced. if there is no voltage it may indicate that either you have broken or damaged wires somewhere between the console and the motor or perhaps a bad power board if your equipment has one.
kay. so here are my findings. i turn on my voltmeter to DCV and put it on 10. i connect the red probe with the red cable that goes to the resistance motor and the black one with black and the needle goes to 3 on the AV10V meter. i connect red probe with yellow cable pin, black probe with blue cable pin and needle does nothing. switch probes on colors, nothing. what does that mean? seems like there is something happening but not the right thing? had a second person go all the way up and all the way down on resistance each time. ugh. i dont understand electricity. sorry :) thanks a bunch for trying to help!
The resistance motor has 2 parts the motor part and a sensor part. the yellow and blue wires are connected to the motor part and will have about 5VDC between them when the motor is moving. The red and black wires are connected to the sensor and should have (just as you measured) about 3 volts DC between them at all times. when your probes are on the yellow and blue wires then try to move the motor. If voltage is present then you have a bad motor. If there is no voltage then there is likely a disconnect or short in one or more wires. (what is your model #?)
I ordered the exercise bike on January 7th and it arrived on February 12th. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxzg0clhbtRf2gGxPkVETFKJJKGqdsorQu The box must have been tossed around quite a bit because one whole side of the styrofoam was destroyed, and the other side foam was cracked. The Two zip ties holding the handlebars had broken loose and handlebars were loose in the box. There are two small holes in the foam on the right side of the handlebars, I guess from rolling around inside the box. Assembly was straight forward and easy. I am 6 ft 5 in 220 lb and the handlebars and seating positions fully adjustable and work great, I'm getting full leg extension. The noise level is very, very low and acceptable. The adjustment knob for the pressure on the flywheel works well also. The exercise bike is very well made, sturdy and easy move around. This is my first exercise bike and will keep me in shape over the winter. Update 3/19/21: when removing the sticker from the wheel, make sure you remove any sticker glue also. I thought mine was clean but I was getting a slight noise from the glue. Once cleaned off, its super quite. Also the monitor didn't work, tracked it down to the pickup device wasn't in the hole. Once I moved in the hole, it works fine. Do NOT put it in until it touches or it will damage the pickup.
This usually means the the resistance motor is not calibrated correctly. You can try to uninstall and reinstall the resistance motor and follow the instructions: th-cam.com/video/vhqnP3D_8kc/w-d-xo.html
5.7 volts should be plenty of power to operate the motor. If there is no short or disconnect in the wire harness then i would suggest replacing the resistance motor.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp If motor turns turns when connected to 9v battery, motor could still be bad? When I disconnect the cable from the eddy mech, my resistance system works as expected (press resistance decrease button, motor winds cable clockwise onto the spindle pulling cable in. Press resistance increase, motor turns counterclockwise to unwind the cable letting more cable out. However, when the cable is under load, it will only release (spin counterclockwise). It does not appear to have enough power to pull the magnets down.
@@eighties8 Can you verify the power going to the motor? it sounds like you may not have about 6 volts getting to the yellow and blue wires of the motor.
Good afternoon friend I tried to do the same, but without sucess. I don't have your expertise ;). I have an elliptical that the control panel has damaged and the magnetic has touched the wheel. I would like to know how I can push it away manually. I don't know which cable or wire I have to pull and how to do it imgur.com/a/u6lBopJ (link with pictures of wheels and magnetic)
Sorry I am not more familiar with that model. It looks like there should be a arm the connects the magnet bracket to the motor. I cannot identify it in your pictures. You may need to re-attach the link arm to the magnetic bracket to keep the magnets from contacting the flywheel.
I have a 2.5 month old NordicTrac Commercial V21. 10 days again, the resistance control went out. This video is no help but it is all that Nordictrac sends me over and over. Their phone service is non-existent. Next stop -- small claims court.
If the resistance motor continues to fail there may be an issue with the position sensor signal reaching the console. if the console thinks the motor is in a different position than it really is then it could send power to the motor til it breaks. If you haven't done so I would replace the wire harness between the motor and the console when the resistance motor is replaced. I would also make sure that the resistance cable is adjusted so that the sider shown in this video is not bottomed out before the motor has spooled the cable to its lowest position. If there is no more room for the slider to move then it could cause the motor to strip out.
I cannot say "ALL" resistance motors are the same, however, from what I've been looking at (and I've been looking closely for days) quite a few of these resistance motors are the same. Same stamp BK5 on the motor, except for tiny variations (mounting, pulley color, location) they are identical. Powered by 6 volts D cell (1.5 X 4) DC but even a if wired correctly 'usually yellow and blue power this', a 9Volt battery will work. The rest of the power from your 4 D cell batteries are for display, senors, little fan etc etc. SHOP AROUND. Price matters to me. 1. I am not rich, I'm $999,999 from being a millionaire. 2. I detest being gouged. 3. I've seen the exact same motor going between $44.00 and $99.99 plus shipping, tax and handling. 4. I'd bet the total cost of manufacturing this motor is less than $10 bucks.. One scumbag on Ebay is selling this "used" motor for $80 bucks plus ten for shipping. How do people like that sleep at night?
Hope you can help... I have a proform studio pro exercise bike and the resistance doesn't work. I checked if the motor works (with a 9v power source) and it moved. But if I press the buttons for resistance on the console, nothing happens... Any idea? All the connections look good.
you may have an issue with the wires. either they are not able to transmit the voltage from the console (broken or disconnected yellow/blue wires), or the console is not sending the signal. usually because it does not know what position the motor is in. This can be an issue with the red white and black wires.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Your video saved me a service call. I made the adjustments you showed and it worked. I now can adjust the resistance from easy to difficult. Knowing how the magnets work to cause resistance was the key.
How long have you had yours? I'm considering buying a used one of these and I just wanted to know what the downside is. Thanks.
This is the best video I've seen on youtube. Thanks for the detailed explanation. Now I can build my own interface for my bike!
That is either quite a compliment or you need to check out you tube more often. ;) either way Thankyou and good luck.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp LOL. Well maybe I got a little carried away, but for you to describe something so obscure in such great detail that really helps!
Hello, did you finally build your own interface for the bike?. I am also interested. Thank you.
My kudos for a great video, too. My NordicTrack GX5.0 Pro system is working except for the resistance adjustment. When adding or subtracting resistance, each press of the + or - is not always met with a movement of the resistance motor. When It does respond, it often goes beyond the desired point and then comes back but does not end up in the same place. My blue and yellow wire voltage is about 5.5 V going up or down. The red, white and black wires are different from the video (they are different on each side of the connector on the video but not on my machine.) The central (of the five) wire and the edge of the connector voltage is 3.3 volts. When the resistance is minimum the voltages from the outside (5th) wire to the adjacent wire (4th) is 2.03, and from the central wire to the 4th wire itis 3.10. When the resistance is maximum, those same voltages are 2.6 and 0.6, respectively. This started a couple of months ago. The power supply read about 6.2 V when not connected. Resistance motor? Control panel?
By the way, I found the bearing number for the one-way bearing in the flywheel a couple of years ago and was able to order it for a few bucks. I had it pressed in but probably could have installed it myself (the "official" repair is to change the $700 flywheel).
I think something has happened to your resistance motor and it is not returning an accurate signal back to the console, so the console really doesn't know where the motor is at. Unless you are seeing any wire damage or evidence of a short, (it doesn't sound like it based on your voltages), then I would suggest to replace the motor.
Thank you for the electrical breakdown.
Is there a video to show how and what to take apart to access the resistance mechanism to adjust it?
I have a HealthRider H35XR which I've owned since new in 2012. The electrical and mechanical configuration is very similar to that of the NordicTrack, and probably others. I have had to replace the workout resistance motor assembly twice because the 5K potentiometer has gotten intermittent which resulted in an inability to adjust workout resistance, manually or automatically. I recently purchased a used identical bike for $50 with no resistance control. Upon inspection, I found that the previous owner had incorrectly substituted a 12VDC power brick for the required 6VDC brick. The result is a toasted console board (the backlight for the display is dead, as is the resistance motor control circuit. Other functions appear to work.) So I am now on the hunt for used console replacement because I don't want to build my own as has been suggested. The boards are quite commonly used across brands, so I'm hopeful.
This is an interesting point you make about the 6v power adapter being replaced with 12 volt and causing circuit damage. I buy and sell used fitness bikes and ellipticals. About half of the ones found at thrift stores have bad/fried resistance circuits (console no longer can send proper resistance voltage to the brake magnet motor). In most cases, when I test the 6v power adapters that come with these bikes (or individual used 6v DC adapters I purchase separately from thrift stores, they have tons of them), I ALWAYS find that the voltage reads MUCH higher than the stated 6v rating. In most cases 12+ volts and higher. It is my feeling that over time, this voltage leak from these adapters is causing the highly prevalent issue we see with fried resistance circuits and ultimately leading to most people scrapping their exercise machines due to broken resistance systems. Landfills await. All for the badly made chinese 6v DC power adapters that slowly wear out and fry circuits made for 6v and 9v (as most exercise bikes and ellipticals are)
Video may be a little shaky but NICE job of staying on task and showing people the exact fix. :-)
Super video, thank you.
Thank You for your video. Very well made, easy to understand, nice step by step instructions
Be very careful if voltages on resistance motor are not as described in this video. Signals come from control panel and if wrong will destroy resistance motor. After destroying my first replacement resistance motor, I traced the problem to the control panel. Replacing the control panel ($250) plus resistance motor ($70) plus shipping costs, close to ($400) is a tough pill to swallow. Poor design by Nordic Track to not have either some overload protection on resistance motor, think limit switches, or some repair cheaper than replacing control panel. I'm electing to put in a rocker switch and limit switches to manually control resistance. Lose some functionality from control panel but resistance will still be controllable.
I have a Healthrider H35xr exercise bike. It has a motorized tensioner just like in your video to control the resistance via a magnet. The panel will increase the resistance but not decrease it. I applied a multi-meter and get positive 3.28v from the panel when increasing the resistance to the sensor and 5.98v to the motor. But I don't get a reverse or negative voltage when decreasing the resistance. I've disconnect and check the motor via a 9v battery and can get the motor to go in both directions and I when I manually turn the sensor, I get a voltage increase and decrease between the 3.28v and 0v. I've check for continuity in the five wire harness and all wires are good. To reset the bike to it's lowest setting I have to disassemble the motorized tensioner and manually turn the senor back to it's lowest setting corresponding to the lowest setting on the panel. When I reassemble it again, I can increase the resistance via the panel but there it remains no matter the increased setting I leave it at. Does this mean something in panel is bad?
Yes. Based on your troubleshooting the console is the only reasonable component.
Hello, excellent video. consultation can be achieved that it is harder bone that is heavier the pedaling. regulating the cable or something?
I'm at a loss. My resistance system works perfectly as long as its not under load (cable not connected to brake magnets in flywheel). I press resistance up button or press a discrete resistance level number button and the motor rotates to that position, and I'm reading 4.7 volts across the blue and yellow wires. However, as soon as I connect the cable to the brake magnets and try this same experiment under load, I'm only getting. 0.29 volts reading across the blue and yellow wires and the motor just hums with no movement. What could the cause of this be? Only when under load does the system not function properly. Interestingly, I can then disconnect the motor from the console harness and even a single AA battery will operate the motor and pull the brake magnets through the full range of motion. So, something is happening under load with the position sensor. I've tried 4 resistance motors and all have the same effect.
Hello. I have the NordicTrack E7 sv, and my resistance is broken.. The display acts like everything is working, showing resistance levels, but there is no resistance. In your video,, I noticed a battery in the resistance motor. Do all of them have that, and could that be a reason mine doesn't work? I would presume the battery is just to keep memory of where the resistance is currently at. Great video!
Hi, I'm sorry to hear your resistance is not working. What I presume you are calling a battery is actually a potentiometer. There is no battery used in the resistance motors.
When the Magnet expands in the minute 1:21
What do you mean?..
More resistance or less resistance?
The closer the magnets are to the flywheel the more resistance is felt by the user.
Amazing how a fitness product requires that so many people must became an experienced support technician just to use a product we paid hundreds (or thousands) or dollars.... From a customer perspective its bizarre that Proform transfer all responsbaility to the owner for the lack of quality of their products. Working in the Service support industry for +20 years this is one the worst services I encountered!
I have an Nordic track eliptical e8.2. I have adjusted the resistance nuts and the resistance motor turns the cable but the cable is not pulling the plastic part near the magnet down. Any advice?
Greetings, thanks for the information, very useful, I have a problem with the system that no longer generates resistance, that is, regardless of the level of resistance applied, it does not brake, do you know how I can fix it, the system is the same as that shown at the beginning of the video, or the part where you can buy, thanks.
Parts are available at www.iconservice.com
i have a lifecore R100 rower, and 1 of the 4 gears insider the motor has a few teeth that are stripped causing the gear to repeatedly slip. I can't find anyone selling the 701 motor, and for the life of me i can't identify the plastic gear i need to replace (20mm wide, 40t/12t, ~3mm bore). Any suggestions?
OK...but if we adjust the resistance, how do we know what the real resistance is while utilizing the machine?
Great video and many great responses. I have a NordicTrac Elite 490 recumbunt bike that the disply always lites up but you can only read whats on the diplay for a second or two at a time as it stays lit but you can only see things faintly in the background. It kinda flickers and clicks when it goes off and on. Sometimes after I peddle for a while the resistance motor works up and down but not always. So I'm guessing the motor works but there is a short flickering the power to the motor from the control board. Hope that all makes since. I love the bike and I've had it for years. Is there any way I can run power directly to the resistance motor from where it comes in at the ac plug? Al I need is the resistance to work, the display would be nice but I really don't use it except for knowing the resistance and time but I can use a timer for the time. Thanks in advance, Mike
It sounds like you need a new console. You probably can find a way to run the motor directly but I don't have any modification videos. There are several out there on TH-cam however. You may also want to consider upgrading your machine. Some of the Features in todays modern consoles are amazing.
I have a Nordictrack act elliptical. There is no wire for tension but rather a metal bar that attaches to the tension motor and the other end to a magnet. Increasing tension on the console sends the motor into almost full circle. It will not reverse when decreasing the resistance or reset when the console turns off. Any help with this type of tension motor would be appreciated. Thanks
its the same motor just a different resistance mechanism. if the motor is not adjusting but goes in a full circle it seems like the motor may need to be replaced.
how do i re attach my tension cable on my Nordic Track GX 4.7 to the eddy mech? I bought a used machine today and the tension cable is not attached to any plastic piece inside the eddy mech, when I took it apart the cable was just sitting inside the eddy mech attached to nothing basically. Could the tension on the eddy mech plastic piece could have drawn the plastic piece up inside of the eddy mech?
The resistance cable should have a small bead on the end that connects to the slider piece of the eddy mech. There is a small hole with a slot in it. Put the bead into the hole and run the cable through the slot. If the parts are broken then they may need to be replaced.
Is there a video that tackles the resistance motors that are solenoid based?
Hello. I have a Nordictrack E 6.7 Lift. The resistance even when it’s on the minimum setting is too strong. A friend and I took apart the elliptical when we watch this video and verified that the motor does indeed work when we select different settings we shortened the cable so that on setting one the cable retracts all the way down to the bottom of the slot. I was hopeful that would fix it. But it did not. Do you have any videos or suggestions of where to look next?
its possible that the magnets in the mech are not being pulled. If that is the case then you would need replace the mech.
Heya 👋
Thanks for video was super informative 👍 I’ve recently got hold of an old exersize bike and the resistance is not working at all 😔
I have taken the case off and turned it on and found that the resistance motor does not turn when the resistance is changed. So I am assuming that this part is old and broken. If what I am concluding is correct, please could you inform me if this part is fixable or if I should purchase a new resistance motor. 🔧
If I should purchase one can any replacement of eBay work or could I face compatibility issues ?
Thanks in advance for any help 🙏🏽
I made the adjustments and it resulted in some improvement. Is there anything else that I can do? The resistance is still more difficult that it should be.
If it is still too difficult then it may be an indication that the eddy mech needs to be replaced.
I am not getting a voltage reading on the blue and yellow wires. the motor 'shakes' back and forth but doesnt move in either direction.
The motor should not be moving at all if there is no voltage on the yellow and blue wires. The movement implies that it is receiving power. If it is receiving power but unable to pull the cable or link arm then I would replace the motor.
I have a pro form elliptical 510ex that blew the dual channel Mosfet to control the tension motor. Can you tell me what part number the Mosfet is so I can replace it?
the manufacturer only replaces the entire electronic components so you will likely need the console from the manufacturer.
I have an eliptical bike that stopped sending voltage to the tension motor, I replaced the console and now the tensioner motor works but turns way to far, like it's not reporting the position correctly, the console is supposed to be the same but it's not working correctly, I think it has to do with the position sensor resistance, when the the position travels farther than it should do you think it should have more or less resistance?
it may be that the resistance cable is wrapped the wrong way on the motor. I would remove the cable from the motor and then move the resistance to the highest position. Then re-attach the cable to the motor.
I have a nordictrack elliptical se9i and the resistance levels are opposite. So level 1 is actually level 24 and vice versa, for all the levels. How can I fix this?
It is possible that the resistance cable is wound the wrong way around the resistance motor so it is winding up the cable instead of releasing it as you increase the resistance. This can happen if parts are replaces and the cable is reconnected in the wrong way. Some times this can also happen if the gears in the motor slip and the cable jumps out of the track on the motor after being wound to tightly or to long, which may require a new resistance motor.
How do I access the resistance magnet turnbuckle on the hiit pro form trainer elliptical?
So with my Norditrack GX 2.5 bike, it appears the magnets are always engaged. The motor is brand new and winds and unwinds no problem, but the cable does not respond, other than unwinding from the motor.
Am I right in guessing I need a new cable?
Thank You very much. I was getting a strange noise which was accompanied by immediate resistance and without completely tearing it apart yet I watched this and my orange plastic piece does not move but stays down. Now I know what the problem is just need to figure out how to fix it. It is useless to me the way it is. I have a New Balance 6100. Again thank you.
Your Welcome and Good Luck :)
Hi. Great video. Thanks. I have a proform 12.9 and resistance motor is not moving. New motor did not move either except for about a half a second when first hooked up. I did your voltage tests. I got a positive voltage with increasing resistance on the console at the yellow and blue wires. Nothing when decreasing the resistance ( no negative voltage). Also, the red and black wires have the correct voltage but I get nothing between the white and black wires. Is the problem the console? Would the motor control board cause this?
you should have voltage between the white and black wires. If not you may have a damaged white wire you likely have a broken loose or disconnected wire (white wire) in the wiring.
Thanks. I will check the white wire. But would that explain the lack of negative voltage in the yellow/blue wires when decreasing resistance settings?
@@joelhansford8364 If the console thinks that the motor is already in a minimum or maximum position because of the white wire it stands to reason that it would not attempt to move in one of those directions and could explain the 0 voltage.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Hi again and thanks so far. I may have tested incorrectly initially. I get different results with the motor plugged in vs just testing the terminals without the motor plugged in. With the motor plugged in (both the original and a new motor), there is no voltage in either direction between the yellow/blue wires. The white/black/red wires all have voltage as they should. Without the motor plugged in, there is no voltage between the black/white wires, normal voltage between the black/red wires, and voltage between the yellow/blue wires only with increasing resistance at the console (nothing going down). I checked all wires for continuity between the control board and the motor harness (fine). What is your diagnosis doctor? Would replacing either the control board or console solve this problem? I am willing to try either/both.
Great video!! But I'm still having the same problem even after changing the resistance motor. I get a clicking noise at low resistance levels and have to increase the resistance to 4 or so to get it to stop...and what I found by looking at the motor while change the resistance is that disc on the motor is trying to turn and it can't rotate all the way and is clicking when it gets stuck. Almost as of there's not enough cable to allow it to turn all the way to what would be resistances level one. Any suggestions please?
first make sure the cable is routed the correct direction around the motor. I find it helpful to install the cable to the motor at the highest resistance level thig gives the most cable to work with when attaching it to the motor. After attaching the cable you can make adjustments to the cable length by adjusting the barrel nut on the cable as shown in this video.
If the orange eddy mech is stuck up high, highest resistance, do I need a new resistance motor or brake assembly?
If the motor is still turning and retracting/extending the cable then you may have an issue within the mech assembly with the magnet brackets
What size open-end wrench should I need for a Nordictrack VR25?
When the voltages on the potentiometer are not as described and the wires ring true back to the control panel, is the control panel the source of the problem? How do you verify this? Do I have to replace the entire control panel with its three circuit boards?
The console (Control Panel) is only available as a complete assembly from the manufacturer, so yes the entire control panel.
Hi there. After watching your video, I was wondering if you could answer this question. I have a Lifefitness 95x elliptical which I bought used. It was in rough shape, so I changed both the timing belts and drive belt. It was almost impossible to pedal despite the fact that I had taken the tension off the belt to the point where it almost slipping off. So a tech said to replace the control board, which I did. That made the resistance a little better, but I still find it's too high. I thought it might be the generator brake controller, but after watching a few videos, I'm not so sure. They seem to be saying you will have no resistance if the controller goes bad. I have the opposite case. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
I am really not familiar with that elliptical as it is from a competing brand but it seems that if you remove the belt to the resistance generator and everything is moving freely, you may have an issue with the resistance generator. If you still have high amounts of resistance you may have an issue with your flywheel or crank bearings. I agree it seems like without the control board there should be little resistance from the generator so it seems like it may be a generator issue and not a control board.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Thanks for the quick reply. I'm going to isolate the issue by removing the belt as you suggested and then use the process of elimination. Thanks again.
Apparently I have an odd assembly. I don't have a turn-the-thread thing to adjust, I have a plastic arm that goes from the motor to the back of the magnet and it doesn't appear to be adjustable :( Only possible tiny adjustment I can see is where the motor screws to the machine it is slotted so there is a small amount of adjustment, but not much. Worse, I can't see a way to even get in one of the screws even with a stubby screw driver. Unless I take a lot of stuff apart that is. I have the norditrack E7Sv. Is it just a cheap elliptical and they couldn't be bothered to put in an adjustment turnbuckle like I see in all these videos? Any idea if there is a way to adjust the tension? I'm trying to make resistance greater.
As you point out there is not much adjustment designed into that style of resistance. If you are looking to increase resistance you may be able to put some kind of shim or washer under the motor bracket. That may move the magnet bracket closer to the flywheel.
Hmm, I hadn't thought of that, but yes, I think that would work. Thanks a lot!
Great video. Really appreciate the explanation of voltage expectation. I buy lots of pre-owned fitness equipment and BY FAR the number 1 issue I find is that the resistance motor is perfectly fine but the console no longer sends a signal to the resistance motor even though the console beeps as you change resistance levels and otherwise acts as if everything is perfect, there is no voltage being passed to the motor. Why is this so prevalent? Is there a fix or hack to bypass the issue?
Did you find a solution for that? My machine has that issue. Cant change ressitant levels
I have this exact same issue too. I think it's time I go fully mechanical spin bike - Screw this electronic crap! My bike only made it to 66 hours and has crapped out already. JUNK!!!
If anyone here has actually opened up one of the consoles on an elliptical or exercise bike and repaired a broken/fried resistance controller circuit, can you please make or share a video showing the components involved and how you fixed it? I buy, sell and repair these machines and I find the #1 issue is bad resistance circuits (My guess is likely due to the 6v power adapters leaking voltage over time - most of them meter out at 12+ volts DC after a few years of use and likely are frying the resistance circuits).
Very informative
Recently I replaced the resistance motor. Now the when I increase the resistance on the console the resistance decreases, and vice versa. Is there a chance I flipped the connector when I installed the motor? Or did I buy the wrong motor that has opposite rotation directions?
I think it is more likely that the cable got routed the wrong way around the pulley on the motor.
Yes I did the same thing at first. Then I realized I had to set the tension at the highest level before putting in the pin. That way when I lowered the resistance on the panel it would wind up the cable and pull it away from the magnets.
What if the voltage on the potentiometer voltages are not as described? My red and black wires are 3 volts. Black and white voltage is 0. Every time the unit is powered up the blue wire has 6 volts. Problems started because resistance motor destroyed itself stripping gears and over winding potentiometer. My testing was done by hooking up new 5K pot and using motor from broken resistance motor.
If the black and white voltage is 0 volts I would be concerned. That the Pot on the motor has failed or that depending on where you are measuring voltage there may be an issue with the wiring. most consoles will attempt to lower the resistance to level 1. If the console is not receiving a position signal on the white wire then most consoles will send voltage out to the resistance motor constantly until the signal on the white wire indicates being in the first resistance position. If you have tried a new pot i would double check the wires.
Fitness Equipment Help As you describe every time the unit powers up the motor runs to set resistance to lowest setting. Since the motor is not currently connected to the pot it runs until it times out even if I manually control pot to lowest setting. It is not getting any feedback. As you suggested I rang out wire harnesses all the way back to the machine interface board in the control box. They rang true. Ringing them thru to the motherboard gave resistance reading across wires. For instance white at resistance motor showed 2000 ohms at motherboard. White to red measured 1800 ohms,white to black(2200 ohms),white to blue(650ohms), and white to yellow(1000 ohms). The wires are obviously interconnected thru the motherboard but now I'm stuck. It does not seem to be a problem with the wiring, so where do I go from here?
@@annakoelsch7490 Hello Anna, What was the solution with your resistance motor?
I have the same issue you have described and I suspect the pot to be broken. Your feedback will help to do perform the good reparation!
Thanks
How do you adjust the resistance bar on a FREESTRIDE TRAINER FS7i?
That will depend on which model you have. The late model units have a magnetic bracket attached to a link arm by 2 nuts. By loosening the nut in the direction you want to move the link arm, then by tightening the other nut, you can adjust the position of the magnet along the link arm.
Hi. I'm trying to replace the tension motor on my Proform 325 CSX but I can't loosen the wire connected to the old one so I can't disconnect it. I tried pushing down (and up) the resistance mech but it won't budge. Would you have any advice for me?
I'm guessing the motor wont turn at all and that is why you are replacing it. Typically I would suggest raising the resistance so you could get some slack when pushing the mech slider toward the center of the mech. you may be able to get some slack by lengthening the cable at the barrel nut similar to what is shown in this video. The video below shoes some detail of the process once you have some slack in your cable at the 1:50 mark: th-cam.com/video/uN_VVdxBjgE/w-d-xo.html
When watching the video, I noticed the wire harness and the plug for the resistance motor have a different order of wire colors. The wire harness is Bl/Y/R/W/B, and on the motor plug it is Y/Bl/B/W/R. Is this correct wiring? Seems both the power wires and the sensor wires are reversed. Is this case where two wrongs make a right? My machine wiring is the same as the video. I'm confused, what is the correct sequence?
That's a good way to explain it. That two wrongs make a right. By switching the yellow and blue wires the resistance motor will operate in reverse. switching the red and black wires also reverses the voltage reading through the rheostat. doing this allows the same programming and resistance motors to be used in applications where the motor winds the cable to increase resistance and in applications where the motor winds the cable to decrease the resistance on differently designed of bikes and ellipticals.
Hello! Awesome content. Maybe someone can give me a hand. I noticed that the range of motion of the resistence motor is very limited. I by that I mean that between the Resistance 1 and 20, the wheel doesn't turn more than 1/6 of turn. Would that be sensor or the control panel? Thank you all!! Regards
My Nordic Track 990 Pro increases resistance on its own.When you first get on it the resistance is fine, after a few strides it increases to max. Any suggestions ?
Any chance the resistance up and down buttons also seem to be backwards? When you first turn on the unit most bikes and ellipticals will move the resistance magnet brackets to the lowest position. On some motors if the resistance cable has popped out of the track the resistance can be reversed, so when you start up it now goes to the highest resistance position. This may be able to be resolved by re routing the resistance cable on your resistance motor.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Thanks. I will try to determine if this is the issue.
Would this video apply to the Nordictrack GX 4.4 Pro?
Yes, for model NTEX75016.
How do I open up the eddy mech my cables on the inside came loose and I don't want to buy a new one
The eddy mech is held together with a retaining ring on the axle. one extricated from the bike/elliptical use a pair of retaining ring pliers to remove the ring and the mech part should slide out of the flywheel with some force as the magnets in the mech will still be attracted to the flywheel.
i just replaced the resistance motor and reconnected the wire responsible for the resistance adjustment. the keys on my display are working and responding to increase / decrease of resistance but - the resistance motor is not turning. what would be my next step of trouble shooting?
Do you have a voltage multimeter? Is the resistance motor receiving 4-6 VDC from the console or power board when you are adjusting your resistance?
i do have one but am unsure how i would test that. could you give me instructions for that?
when the console is sending voltage to tun the motor you should be able to measure voltage between the yellow and blue wires. if voltage is present but the motor does not turn, the motor should be replaced. if there is no voltage it may indicate that either you have broken or damaged wires somewhere between the console and the motor or perhaps a bad power board if your equipment has one.
kay. so here are my findings. i turn on my voltmeter to DCV and put it on 10. i connect the red probe with the red cable that goes to the resistance motor and the black one with black and the needle goes to 3 on the AV10V meter. i connect red probe with yellow cable pin, black probe with blue cable pin and needle does nothing. switch probes on colors, nothing. what does that mean? seems like there is something happening but not the right thing? had a second person go all the way up and all the way down on resistance each time. ugh. i dont understand electricity. sorry :) thanks a bunch for trying to help!
The resistance motor has 2 parts the motor part and a sensor part. the yellow and blue wires are connected to the motor part and will have about 5VDC between them when the motor is moving. The red and black wires are connected to the sensor and should have (just as you measured) about 3 volts DC between them at all times. when your probes are on the yellow and blue wires then try to move the motor. If voltage is present then you have a bad motor. If there is no voltage then there is likely a disconnect or short in one or more wires. (what is your model #?)
I ordered the exercise bike on January 7th and it arrived on February 12th. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxzg0clhbtRf2gGxPkVETFKJJKGqdsorQu The box must have been tossed around quite a bit because one whole side of the styrofoam was destroyed, and the other side foam was cracked. The Two zip ties holding the handlebars had broken loose and handlebars were loose in the box. There are two small holes in the foam on the right side of the handlebars, I guess from rolling around inside the box. Assembly was straight forward and easy. I am 6 ft 5 in 220 lb and the handlebars and seating positions fully adjustable and work great, I'm getting full leg extension. The noise level is very, very low and acceptable. The adjustment knob for the pressure on the flywheel works well also. The exercise bike is very well made, sturdy and easy move around. This is my first exercise bike and will keep me in shape over the winter. Update 3/19/21: when removing the sticker from the wheel, make sure you remove any sticker glue also. I thought mine was clean but I was getting a slight noise from the glue. Once cleaned off, its super quite. Also the monitor didn't work, tracked it down to the pickup device wasn't in the hole. Once I moved in the hole, it works fine. Do NOT put it in until it touches or it will damage the pickup.
What size open wrench is that?
It is an 8mm wrench. A 5/16 inch wrench seems to work well also.
My resistance is in reverse. Horizon Endes 6 elliptical. 1 is hardest 16 is less hard. Any solution. Thank you
This usually means the the resistance motor is not calibrated correctly. You can try to uninstall and reinstall the resistance motor and follow the instructions:
th-cam.com/video/vhqnP3D_8kc/w-d-xo.html
The resistance cable may be oriented in the wrong direction on the motor.
I have 5.7V between blue and yellow but the motor no running. Then I put 9V with a battery and the motor work. what should I do? Thanks.
5.7 volts should be plenty of power to operate the motor. If there is no short or disconnect in the wire harness then i would suggest replacing the resistance motor.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp
If motor turns turns when connected to 9v battery, motor could still be bad? When I disconnect the cable from the eddy mech, my resistance system works as expected (press resistance decrease button, motor winds cable clockwise onto the spindle pulling cable in. Press resistance increase, motor turns counterclockwise to unwind the cable letting more cable out. However, when the cable is under load, it will only release (spin counterclockwise). It does not appear to have enough power to pull the magnets down.
@@eighties8 Can you verify the power going to the motor? it sounds like you may not have about 6 volts getting to the yellow and blue wires of the motor.
Merci
Link arm. I looking for this part
😢
some products use a cable and some use a link arm. check your specific product to see which one your equipment uses. What is your model #?
Dang can you come fix mine I have a S10i Nordic bike
I'm about to break off a couple of magnets, lowest position on my elliptical is hard as gods might...
Same here. Brand new elliptical and even though I'm use to the gym ellipticals, I was struggling on the new machine
Thanks
You're Welcome
Good afternoon friend
I tried to do the same, but without sucess. I don't have your expertise ;).
I have an elliptical that the control panel has damaged and the magnetic has touched the wheel.
I would like to know how I can push it away manually.
I don't know which cable or wire I have to pull and how to do it
imgur.com/a/u6lBopJ (link with pictures of wheels and magnetic)
Sorry I am not more familiar with that model. It looks like there should be a arm the connects the magnet bracket to the motor. I cannot identify it in your pictures. You may need to re-attach the link arm to the magnetic bracket to keep the magnets from contacting the flywheel.
How to contact you via email? Have a question...
Want to send you some pictures of my bike...
I have a 2.5 month old NordicTrac Commercial V21. 10 days again, the resistance control went out. This video is no help but it is all that Nordictrac sends me over and over. Their phone service is non-existent. Next stop -- small claims court.
If the resistance motor continues to fail there may be an issue with the position sensor signal reaching the console. if the console thinks the motor is in a different position than it really is then it could send power to the motor til it breaks. If you haven't done so I would replace the wire harness between the motor and the console when the resistance motor is replaced. I would also make sure that the resistance cable is adjusted so that the sider shown in this video is not bottomed out before the motor has spooled the cable to its lowest position. If there is no more room for the slider to move then it could cause the motor to strip out.
I cannot say "ALL" resistance motors are the same, however, from what I've been looking at (and I've been looking closely for days) quite a few of these resistance motors are the same. Same stamp BK5 on the motor, except for tiny variations (mounting, pulley color, location) they are identical. Powered by 6 volts D cell (1.5 X 4) DC but even a if wired correctly 'usually yellow and blue power this', a 9Volt battery will work. The rest of the power from your 4 D cell batteries are for display, senors, little fan etc etc. SHOP AROUND. Price matters to me. 1. I am not rich, I'm $999,999 from being a millionaire. 2. I detest being gouged. 3. I've seen the exact same motor going between $44.00 and $99.99 plus shipping, tax and handling. 4. I'd bet the total cost of manufacturing this motor is less than $10 bucks.. One scumbag on Ebay is selling this "used" motor for $80 bucks plus ten for shipping. How do people like that sleep at night?
Yes, I have seen the "same" or very similar motors used by several brands and manufacturers.
7iu
Thanks
Hope you can help... I have a proform studio pro exercise bike and the resistance doesn't work. I checked if the motor works (with a 9v power source) and it moved. But if I press the buttons for resistance on the console, nothing happens... Any idea? All the connections look good.
you may have an issue with the wires. either they are not able to transmit the voltage from the console (broken or disconnected yellow/blue wires), or the console is not sending the signal. usually because it does not know what position the motor is in. This can be an issue with the red white and black wires.