26 out of 30 queens hatched here following your educational videos. Thank you! One question: splits that I made have one frame of honey, one frame brood, and an empty comb. Do you give feed syrup to these splits after introducing new queens? I heard that one must give some so the bees feed the new queen properly. What do you advise? Thanks
Awesome. Yes, I would give them some feed, but not too much. Give them a litre per 3 frame nuc then when you check them for laying queens in a couple of weeks decide whether they need more then. Small splits are tricky, easy to over feed them and let them plug up so the queen has nowhere to lay, also a risk that they starve if there is no flow. A flow, real or simulated with feed, will make the bees encourage the queen to lay faster once she gets going. Cheers Chris
Hello. Thanks for your videos. I did it for the first time using cloack board. My cells were capped yesterday and I moved them today to an incubator. I noticed that some cells have a good amount of jelly and others are pretty empty. Any recommendations? Thanks again from USA
Hi, Well done! I generally leave the cells in the cloake board hive until 2 days before they are due to emerge to avoid damaging the developing larvae. A bump while you are moving them can damage their developing wings. Then they can't fly to get mated. The amount of royal jelly is a reflection of the nurse bee numbers and level of nutrition available to them. But don't judge the queens based on that. Wait until they have mated and are laying brood. If they are producing a good solid pattern of capped brood they are fine. It gets easier the more often you do it, so be sure to repeat it a few times. Even if you have to give a few queens away to friends :)
@@KiwiWildman Great. Thanks for the reply. I moved them very carefully from my backyard :) I didn’t want to get an early hatching since I wasn’t sure if my calendar was counted correctly or the larvae was young enough. Thanks for such valuable information.
Hello sir. A question about the queen rearing. Do we need to wait 4 days after we put the queen in the bottom box before grafting? Or can we skip this step and remove all cells if they build them in the top box? The reason I ask because I did the second graft of the season and did not want to wait 4 days to have the eggs mature and make the top box “hopelessly queenless”. I had only about 50% success on the cells take. Is that because I skipped this step? Thanks. Andrey USA
You can graft earlier, but because they have larvae in the frames that are the right age to turn into queen cells their attention is spread between them and your graft calls, so yes, the success rate goes down if you don't wait the 4 days. Having said that, if I am in a hurry and not too worried about success rates, I will do the same thing. The biggest risk of doing that is that you miss one of the cells on the frames and it emerges. Then you have a virgin queen running around the hive, that might not affect the first graft if you get your cells out before she emerges, but she is small enough to slip through the queen excluder and it might affect the next graft after that.
@@KiwiWildman Thank you Chris. I will shake off the bees and check each frame to make sure no cells are pulled. Next time will wait 4 days :) Thank you so much for a quick response.
One more question, Seems like you don’t have an entrance for the top box during the process. Only one opening on the bottom box. Since there is a queen excluder between boxes, how do drones get outside? Won’t they die in the top box and clog the excluder? Thanks
@@andrewk1191 Yes, a few drones do die, but offsetting that, my grafting hives are in a yard with lots of queen mating hives. So I have virgin queens returning from mating flights to that yard. It would only take one to fly into the top box of the cloake board hive, if there was a top entrance, and it would tear down all the cells. Virgin queens returning to the wrong hive from mating flights is quite common, even with lots of unique colours and shapes on the mating hives to help them recognise home. I have never had the queen excluder blocked by dead drones.
Only a diploid/worker egg, haploid/drone eggs cannot become queens....any WORKER egg. Also emergency larvae are chosen from divergent genetics so allows for different genetics to get to the top of the pile so shouldnt be said to be inferior.
Hi Cam, thanks for your reply. Can I suggest politely that you re-read your text book. You seem to be under the impression that diploid and haploid are names for different types of eggs. Any honey bee egg develops into a diploid bee (and therefore female) if it is fertilised. If the queen does not fertilise an egg when she lays it then yes, that egg develops into a haploid bee and becomes a drone. But an egg is an egg. I repeat what I said in the video, any fertilised egg (the word fertilised was added in text on the screen) has the potential to be made into a queen. With regard to why emergency cells may be inferior and therefore should be avoided, that has nothing to do with genetics. As noted in the video, a queen-less hive can panic and choose larvae that are too old These older larvae do not get as much royal jelly, their reproductive organs are not as well developed and they become poor queens. I can verify that from my personal observations. Having said that, you said "emergency larvae are chosen from divergent genetics". I would appreciate you referencing where you heard that. It is news to me. The genetics of all the eggs in the hive are from the same source, the queen and the drones she mated with. There is a high degree of divergence due to the multiple male genes that are included. But I am sceptical that bees can identify different genetics in fertilised eggs and that this influences which eggs they choose to turn into queens. If you have evidence that this is so I would be really interested in following it up. You are never too old to learn. Many thanks. Chris
![เปิดใจ "อาจารย์เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม" อดีตเคยสุดทุกทาง ถ้าใช้หนี้หมดไปบวชแน่ l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IxeE0xVhy08/mqdefault.jpg)
Looking forward to seeing the other parts.
Thanks, Part 2 will be out today.
26 out of 30 queens hatched here following your educational videos. Thank you!
One question: splits that I made have one frame of honey, one frame brood, and an empty comb. Do you give feed syrup to these splits after introducing new queens?
I heard that one must give some so the bees feed the new queen properly. What do you advise?
Thanks
Awesome. Yes, I would give them some feed, but not too much. Give them a litre per 3 frame nuc then when you check them for laying queens in a couple of weeks decide whether they need more then. Small splits are tricky, easy to over feed them and let them plug up so the queen has nowhere to lay, also a risk that they starve if there is no flow. A flow, real or simulated with feed, will make the bees encourage the queen to lay faster once she gets going. Cheers Chris
@@KiwiWildman thank you.
Hello. Thanks for your videos. I did it for the first time using cloack board. My cells were capped yesterday and I moved them today to an incubator. I noticed that some cells have a good amount of jelly and others are pretty empty. Any recommendations? Thanks again from USA
Hi, Well done! I generally leave the cells in the cloake board hive until 2 days before they are due to emerge to avoid damaging the developing larvae. A bump while you are moving them can damage their developing wings. Then they can't fly to get mated. The amount of royal jelly is a reflection of the nurse bee numbers and level of nutrition available to them. But don't judge the queens based on that. Wait until they have mated and are laying brood. If they are producing a good solid pattern of capped brood they are fine. It gets easier the more often you do it, so be sure to repeat it a few times. Even if you have to give a few queens away to friends :)
@@KiwiWildman
Great. Thanks for the reply. I moved them very carefully from my backyard :) I didn’t want to get an early hatching since I wasn’t sure if my calendar was counted correctly or the larvae was young enough.
Thanks for such valuable information.
Hello sir.
A question about the queen rearing.
Do we need to wait 4 days after we put the queen in the bottom box before grafting? Or can we skip this step and remove all cells if they build them in the top box?
The reason I ask because I did the second graft of the season and did not want to wait 4 days to have the eggs mature and make the top box “hopelessly queenless”. I had only about 50% success on the cells take. Is that because I skipped this step?
Thanks.
Andrey USA
You can graft earlier, but because they have larvae in the frames that are the right age to turn into queen cells their attention is spread between them and your graft calls, so yes, the success rate goes down if you don't wait the 4 days. Having said that, if I am in a hurry and not too worried about success rates, I will do the same thing. The biggest risk of doing that is that you miss one of the cells on the frames and it emerges. Then you have a virgin queen running around the hive, that might not affect the first graft if you get your cells out before she emerges, but she is small enough to slip through the queen excluder and it might affect the next graft after that.
@@KiwiWildman
Thank you Chris.
I will shake off the bees and check each frame to make sure no cells are pulled.
Next time will wait 4 days :)
Thank you so much for a quick response.
One more question,
Seems like you don’t have an entrance for the top box during the process. Only one opening on the bottom box. Since there is a queen excluder between boxes, how do drones get outside? Won’t they die in the top box and clog the excluder?
Thanks
@@andrewk1191 Yes, a few drones do die, but offsetting that, my grafting hives are in a yard with lots of queen mating hives. So I have virgin queens returning from mating flights to that yard. It would only take one to fly into the top box of the cloake board hive, if there was a top entrance, and it would tear down all the cells. Virgin queens returning to the wrong hive from mating flights is quite common, even with lots of unique colours and shapes on the mating hives to help them recognise home. I have never had the queen excluder blocked by dead drones.
@@KiwiWildman thank you!
Only a diploid/worker egg, haploid/drone eggs cannot become queens....any WORKER egg. Also emergency larvae are chosen from divergent genetics so allows for different genetics to get to the top of the pile so shouldnt be said to be inferior.
Hi Cam, thanks for your reply. Can I suggest politely that you re-read your text book. You seem to be under the impression that diploid and haploid are names for different types of eggs. Any honey bee egg develops into a diploid bee (and therefore female) if it is fertilised. If the queen does not fertilise an egg when she lays it then yes, that egg develops into a haploid bee and becomes a drone. But an egg is an egg. I repeat what I said in the video, any fertilised egg (the word fertilised was added in text on the screen) has the potential to be made into a queen. With regard to why emergency cells may be inferior and therefore should be avoided, that has nothing to do with genetics. As noted in the video, a queen-less hive can panic and choose larvae that are too old These older larvae do not get as much royal jelly, their reproductive organs are not as well developed and they become poor queens. I can verify that from my personal observations. Having said that, you said "emergency larvae are chosen from divergent genetics". I would appreciate you referencing where you heard that. It is news to me. The genetics of all the eggs in the hive are from the same source, the queen and the drones she mated with. There is a high degree of divergence due to the multiple male genes that are included. But I am sceptical that bees can identify different genetics in fertilised eggs and that this influences which eggs they choose to turn into queens. If you have evidence that this is so I would be really interested in following it up. You are never too old to learn. Many thanks. Chris
@@KiwiWildman sorry was listening rather than watching and didn't see your post edit.
@@DailyFixNz No worries :) I should have re-filmed that bit when I realised that I mis-spoke, instead of just adding on-screen text. Cheers