Done the same but without taking the block out of the body... all on my driveway. I did two huge mistakes: 1. Did not clean up the Exhaust Pressure Pipe going to the sensor, even though I replaced the sensor with the upgraded one. Big headache followed 😁!!! 2. Did not change the clutch and seems like it was necessary to do so! I have the same engine 2016 CX-5 with 140k miles, pretty descent car once fixed! Still beating my head off because didn't change the clutch back then! 😆 My total cost of parts was nearly £1000... Little advice which I needed and couldn't find nowhere - to clean the Exhaust Pressure Pipe once on the engine and you don't want to take DPF and Turbo apart = use hand break cable on a drill... the only wire that helped me to unblock the fully blocked pipe! Hopefully this comment can help someone in need! Good job!
@@JazzyProjectz thanks guys im in Australia and need to do this can you help me out were is best to get parts? what was the cost im hoping my block is okay! havent got it out the car yet
Hi, congratulations. Excellent job. Could you tell me how much the investment was in spare parts and how many hours of work it took to finish this project? Thank you 👍
Hi my friend. Hope you can help me. I must change the connecting rod bearings on my cx-5 diesel. I have ordered the bearings from ebay, but they keep sending me bearings with the lock notch on the right, instead of the left, like what's on your vehicle Do you know where I could get the bearings with the locking notch on the left?
I got mine from Ebay too. Link of my supplier is below. The part number you need is SHY111SEO. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156002979283?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=A1fDF8X5Rhu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Pg-Y2FF6QT2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Excellent video, appreciate the time taken to make such a thorough video. I may have missed a part there and if I may ask. The conrod cap bolt, did you reuse the original bolts, if so what was the torque procedure/setting to nip them up? Many thanks
Conrod caps 1) 29 +or- 3Nm 2)90 +or- 10 degrees Cap bolt do stretch over time but can be reused. Maximum bolt length = 45mm. If your bolts are longer, get new ones.
Was about £1500 in parts. The car had a blow head gasket. So by doing a thorough rebuild like this I'd like to think the car should do another 70,000 miles without any engine troubles. £1500 for another 70,000 miles is a good return for me.
This could be quite a long list to be honest. From the video description you can see I replaced a lot of parts. After this video I also went ahead and replaced the turbo on this car. The turbo is probably the weakest critical part. If yours has done 70k miles or more I would replace it while the engine is out. Well that's my opinion anyway, others my disagree. Also you must change the exhaust gas pressure sensor, its a known issue on these cars straight out the factory. Replace with part SHY618WOO. If you want email me privately and i can advise further.
Those copper wasters are no good and will eventually cause a carbon death , you should pull the injectors and use part SHO 1-13-H51 which are silver in colour
let mi ask coz am in uganda and i happen to have aproblem with oil dillution i happen to have a dpf delete after i found out that the dpf material was stolen then i unpluged the sockets for the two sensors and my ecu was given aremap and dpf was deleted but one of the mechanics used the can at one point and plugged back the sensors was my mistake not to seal of how ever after some month down the road the oil dillution started again i dnt knw if it has anything to do with the dpf sensors active again and now the valve are high and the ecu tries to do aregeneartion again any advice wd be of help any any one can try and find mi asolution
I would advise dropping the engine. Everything is far easier to work on once the engine is out. Can be dropped out pretty quickly too if you know what you're doing.
@@tasd5673 Yes, it will also lift out from the front with an engine crane. that's how I removed it in this video. You'll have to remove the front bumper, radiator, intercooler and all the wiring that runs across the front. It's more work and you need to be careful not to break any clips. I would advise raising the car up and dropping the engine and subframe from the bottom if you can. Much easier as you won't need to remove the front bumper etc.
I used a bolt extractor kit like the one in the link below. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115792899049?itmmeta=01J28TGH2N2EYGP14CCMC07CVE&hash=item1af5cb6be9:g:3oAAAOSwIIxiBTRk&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHa41648EWlOZBqgGR2LtOuM0%2BT5tBZsWchLnHJHZDNQyNaWSQhRWAeis9uGSbekMnYmOPsoeyeLbQleciygQCIK6fbMvPPvtpyqaZd1FaehVN2tNjVaBcVmhrjovl1HXtzkzDLZvpkgYs%2BtD2e0nt2OdCCMLoX5qD0KOF5TrKmE65Wlnoxd2Vtlrp11V5BEJDPdOyn3WjTge%2BUvouEGizvvrQNbbF3wq6ZixWiXX8vnJeJQdmWfLQJNVxwujML5QA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7SRwpqSZA
Awesome job. Just done a timing chain and intake clean on mine - guides like this are invaluable. Thanks for posting
Done the same but without taking the block out of the body... all on my driveway.
I did two huge mistakes:
1. Did not clean up the Exhaust Pressure Pipe going to the sensor, even though I replaced the sensor with the upgraded one. Big headache followed 😁!!!
2. Did not change the clutch and seems like it was necessary to do so!
I have the same engine 2016 CX-5 with 140k miles, pretty descent car once fixed!
Still beating my head off because didn't change the clutch back then! 😆
My total cost of parts was nearly £1000...
Little advice which I needed and couldn't find nowhere - to clean the Exhaust Pressure Pipe once on the engine and you don't want to take DPF and Turbo apart = use hand break cable on a drill... the only wire that helped me to unblock the fully blocked pipe!
Hopefully this comment can help someone in need!
Good job!
Great tip with the handbrake cable. will keep that in mind for next time
@@JazzyProjectz thanks guys im in Australia and need to do this can you help me out were is best to get parts? what was the cost im hoping my block is okay! havent got it out the car yet
I have a 2013 model that I'm also doing a rebuild on
I'm looking forward to finally completing the project
All the best with that. Let me know if you have any questions.
Excellent join!
Great video
Great job! Keep it up Jaz ;)
Hi, congratulations. Excellent job.
Could you tell me how much the investment was in spare parts and how many hours of work it took to finish this project?
Thank you 👍
Project cost about £1500 in parts and about 10-12 days, Evenings and weekends.
@@JazzyProjectz your a good human helping people
Hi my friend. Hope you can help me. I must change the connecting rod bearings on my cx-5 diesel. I have ordered the bearings from ebay, but they keep sending me bearings with the lock notch on the right, instead of the left, like what's on your vehicle
Do you know where I could get the bearings with the locking notch on the left?
I got mine from Ebay too. Link of my supplier is below. The part number you need is SHY111SEO.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156002979283?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=A1fDF8X5Rhu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Pg-Y2FF6QT2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@JazzyProjectz Thanks very much
Excellent video, appreciate the time taken to make such a thorough video. I may have missed a part there and if I may ask. The conrod cap bolt, did you reuse the original bolts, if so what was the torque procedure/setting to nip them up? Many thanks
Conrod caps
1) 29 +or- 3Nm
2)90 +or- 10 degrees
Cap bolt do stretch over time but can be reused.
Maximum bolt length = 45mm.
If your bolts are longer, get new ones.
Hi. What was the cost of materials to do the job. What made you decide to do it? Camshaft failure?
Was about £1500 in parts. The car had a blow head gasket. So by doing a thorough rebuild like this I'd like to think the car should do another 70,000 miles without any engine troubles. £1500 for another 70,000 miles is a good return for me.
Hi, just about to purchase a fully rebuilt engine for £1500 to fit in my cx5, what would you recommend I replace whilst it is all apart please?
This could be quite a long list to be honest. From the video description you can see I replaced a lot of parts. After this video I also went ahead and replaced the turbo on this car. The turbo is probably the weakest critical part. If yours has done 70k miles or more I would replace it while the engine is out. Well that's my opinion anyway, others my disagree. Also you must change the exhaust gas pressure sensor, its a known issue on these cars straight out the factory. Replace with part SHY618WOO. If you want email me privately and i can advise further.
Those copper wasters are no good and will eventually cause a carbon death , you should pull the injectors and use part SHO 1-13-H51 which are silver in colour
you're right. I'm going to swap them out. thanks
How much did this project cost please. I have a cx5 with no compression, and don't trust local mechanics. Also what area are you based in
This project cost about £1500 in parts. I'm based in Ealing
Hellow please advice where did you get your parts from, thanks
Most parts get from Ebay. Also get some parts from Japan. Website. www.amayama.com
Where did you source all the torque settings mate, im struggling to find anything
I bought a repair manual of eBay, it will have everything you need
Unable to locate one with the 2.2 diesel engine
let mi ask coz am in uganda and i happen to have aproblem with oil dillution i happen to have a dpf delete after i found out that the dpf material was stolen then i unpluged the sockets for the two sensors and my ecu was given aremap and dpf was deleted but one of the mechanics used the can at one point and plugged back the sensors was my mistake not to seal of how ever after some month down the road the oil dillution started again i dnt knw if it has anything to do with the dpf sensors active again and now the valve are high and the ecu tries to do aregeneartion again
any advice wd be of help any any one can try and find mi asolution
Sounds like this car has been hacked to bits. I don't really have any advice for you, sorry.
What a brilliant job, would you do mine please 🤞
We can talk about this if you're serious. Email me privately.
@@JazzyProjectz what's your email please bud
i have auto is it best to just drop the hole engine like you im working in a drive way
I would advise dropping the engine. Everything is far easier to work on once the engine is out. Can be dropped out pretty quickly too if you know what you're doing.
@@JazzyProjectz hi mate thanks for the reply.
I have seen a vid the guy has the whole front out like bumper
Does the motor drop down with K frane
@@tasd5673 Yes, it will also lift out from the front with an engine crane. that's how I removed it in this video. You'll have to remove the front bumper, radiator, intercooler and all the wiring that runs across the front. It's more work and you need to be careful not to break any clips. I would advise raising the car up and dropping the engine and subframe from the bottom if you can. Much easier as you won't need to remove the front bumper etc.
@@JazzyProjectz thanks mate I’m taking the job of to moving bumper and all
Thanks mate front bumper needs replacing
Go well mate
How many kilometers on the original engine?
137k
where do you buy the Mazda parts in UK?
I've been buying parts from eBay and Amayama.com (Japan)
I've been buying parts from eBay and Amayama.com (Japan)
How do you take ecu off
I used a bolt extractor kit like the one in the link below.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115792899049?itmmeta=01J28TGH2N2EYGP14CCMC07CVE&hash=item1af5cb6be9:g:3oAAAOSwIIxiBTRk&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHa41648EWlOZBqgGR2LtOuM0%2BT5tBZsWchLnHJHZDNQyNaWSQhRWAeis9uGSbekMnYmOPsoeyeLbQleciygQCIK6fbMvPPvtpyqaZd1FaehVN2tNjVaBcVmhrjovl1HXtzkzDLZvpkgYs%2BtD2e0nt2OdCCMLoX5qD0KOF5TrKmE65Wlnoxd2Vtlrp11V5BEJDPdOyn3WjTge%2BUvouEGizvvrQNbbF3wq6ZixWiXX8vnJeJQdmWfLQJNVxwujML5QA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7SRwpqSZA
@@JazzyProjectz thanks
@@jaykay7007 please tell me more!! im not at this stage yet lol
Jazz where you based
Hanwell, West London,
@@JazzyProjectz do you have a contact number