Honda Power Steering Pump Rebuild 98-02 -EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ต.ค. 2014
- Rebuilding Honda power steering pumps isn't that difficult but it comes with a warning, it might not work out. I had a heck of a time with this one. In the end the fix was to just replace it. You might consider that option if you have a noisy pump. However, the rebuild kit is very affordable and if you have the time and inclination, I think it's worth a shot.
This video features my 2001 Honda Odyssey but this same pump was used on a variety of Honda and Acura vehicles from 1998-2002. In fact I think there are only a few differences between this pump and the generation before it.
Lastly I'll say that I strongly recommend you only use Honda fluid. Use of other fluids can cause issues.
Seal Kit: www.carid.com/1998-honda-accor...
Honda 'o' ring PN 91349-P2A-003: www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/...
Bearing PN 6209LU: www.amazon.com/Ntn-6209LU-Sing...
Honda power steering fluid: www.carparts.com/details/Honda...
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These long videos are the ones I like the most,,, specially when things go wrong,,,, Because let's be honest... most of us "do-it-yourselfers" hardly ever get it right the first time around. And when s**t happens one wonders... What would Eric do in this case? Well... Now we know. So many blokes would have edited the video to make it look successful at first.... That's what I like about Eric... He is honest as hell!!!!
Honda power steering fluid is "decene" a highly refined synthetic fluid resembling jet turbine oil and whale oil(ester oil). Use it in any power steering system and you will have the quietest longest lasting system possible. Same goes for their transmission fluid, engine coolant, brake grease, rubber grease...Most of Honda's reliability is in their fluids engineering. An unknown secret. Many of Honda's fluid engineers are chemist who graduated from Idemitsu, they are the best in their field. Honda fluids are not just relabeled fluids. Your getting a bad deal by not using them. I run their fluids in my BMW, in my mothers Toyota...
It's so nice to see
Your first mistake was not cleaning the system. Dump the reservior, pull the lines and blow them out, and maybe even use that hand pump you use for gear oil, flush it out, and pump some fresh fluid though the lines to the rack. Your second mistake was not cleaning out the inside of the pump. You knew it was going to be completely apart and you were going to change the seals, why not clean the inside too? Your third mistake was not making sure that releif valve moves freely. If it sticks, most likely it will just allow pressurized air to be thrown right back into the pump suction. Your 4th mistake was not torquing the housing correctly. If it's not a solid block of cast iron like the PS pumps of the old days, follow the specs, or you WILL distort something.
If you think about it, the 4 bolts on the back of the main housing that you did not torque correctly are the bolts that really needed to be tightened correctly. They hold all the guts together along with the weird O-ring. Why you just turned hillbilly and ran 'em down good and tight there for one step is beyond me. Torque it down properly (torque wrench) to ensure the O-ring and internal parts are seated correctly, sheesh!
You have to use Honda assembly lube. If you don't buy it from Honda, Canadian socialists from Ontario will report you for not obeying.
It's so frustrating when you do everything right and the object of your effort still fails.
No-one else on TH-cam produces auto videos that show this much integrity. Eric never did fix the original pump, but publishes his findings anyway. We learn so much from these endeavours; they help prevent similar mistakes. No wonder ETCG is still the best on TH-cam.
from what i've seen in youtube the whining noise can come from several places, i fixed mine by only cleaning the filter inside the fluid reservoir when i noticed that the pump is not getting enough, now my steering is smooth as new and my ears won't bleed from that whining noise again, thanks Eric for this channel,very helpful
Well I can tell you exactly why it was still whining, the pump cam ring has to be positioned with the “0” marking to the inboard of the pump, not to the outboard cover. I saw you install it wrong toward the beginning AND at the end of the video. The fluid will not flow properly with it installed incorrectly and create the whine you had.
When rebuilding the pump, I recommend building up the internals on the rear cover with the pins, then just lower the pump on top. Much easier than trying to get everything lined up. I would not have used the assembly lube on the vanes. They need to slide in the slots as the pump spins. To me that lube is way too thick and would the vanes from moving freely. The inlet spout o-ring is notorious for going bad and sucking air. I've rebuilt 2 ps pumps on my families accords. I used all OEM parts, including replacing the bearing and my material costs was about $60. The funky shaped o-ring is the most expensive part. Finally, when I had a similar situation with a squeal after rebuilding the pump. Ended up being the tensioner pulley died when I took the belts off.
When things go "wrong" (not as planned), it makes your videos so much more interesting and educational!
When I did a timing belt on my '99 Accord V6, I also tried to change the P/S fluid. Right after I did it and started the engine, the pump started whining just like here. I quickly figured out that it is sucking air, but through where? One friend suggested a new rack, other - a can of gasoline and some matches :D The issue was a pump inlet o-ring at
I appreciate that even when things go wrong you keep your language clean. I can comfortably watch your videos with my children. Thank you.
Wanna see what's inside a Honda power steering pump?
Wow! I feel like I just watched the professional version of what I've been monkeying around with for two days. I have an '07 Acura RDX with a leaking pump. I did exactly the same thing, disassembled and completely rebuilt the pump with all new Honda parts (roughly 10 O-rings and that one seal). The bearing was fine. When I reinstalled the pump, it was making no noise at all. However, no fluid was moving through the pump. I tried all kinds of air purging techniques and then took it apart once again, carefully following the manual and (I'd already done this originally) used a torque wrench. Installed it, again, no movement of fluid. The fluid would "back up" (overflow) the reservoir when I turned the wheel so I thought there might be a "vacuum" (kinda like vapor lock I guess) issue. I used a air compressor to force about 20-30 psi through the reservoir. The fluid would drop and then when I released the air pressure, it would rise again. I took off the low pressure inlet hose and saw that when I blew into the reservoir, the fluid would flow right out so there was no blockage. Also, before I forget, I also manually rotated the pulley before reattaching the serprentine belt and still no pump/fluid flowing. Therefore, I removed the pump (3rd time now) and double checked the pressure relief valve, doing the blow test according to the manual, no issues. If anything I was concerned the spring (ball) valve inside the valve is too tight (I'm sure it's just the way if should be). The point of that test is to make sure it's not allowing low psi to bypass the valve which it definitely is not and I went up to 30 p.s.i. and then I thought maybe I'd installed the spring in the wrong order. After watching your video, I realized the error (I thought). Your pump (pressure relief valve assembly) has the spring on the top (valve goes in first, then spring, then cap) so I double checked and the manual on my pump shows a different order (spring first, then valve, then cap). There's no reason for me to break it down entirely and I'd already done it twice and same result. However, you added fluid into the chamber before buttoning it up so I'm going to do the same. Perhaps there is too much air and no fluid at start up and therefore the pump has nothing to create any flow. I am tempted to try the spring on the top (valve first, then spring, then cap) just as a last resort (which is knowing you're doing something pointless but still curious like you mention). I can't imagine the repair manual from Acura being wrong but I can't find another video of my exact pump so I may just by a new one if all else fails. Thank you nonetheless for demonstrating what can happen, your perseverence, and final acceptance of defeat. The irony is that I watched a video of my same vehicle where the mechanic shows how to replace it only. I commented that it would be cheaper to change out the seals and he said, "good luck with that, no time for in on my end". go figure...
I own a 2005 Acura TL. And my power steering pump was leaking along with making a whine sound. There was a recall on the o-ring outlet that got changed out but the leaking and turning whine was still existing.
I love how Eric shows the problems n mistakes you come across while working on any vehicle n doesn't edit out the truth.
I am GLAD you showed this, Eric. Many times we as mechanics get the blame for a lot of things by customers and our bosses. This video is an excellent example of how even when something is properly done, things can and DO still fail. It happens to all of us.
For someone with limited car repair experience showing the entire process, failures and all, is super helpful. Thanks for this.