You did an excellent job. Thank you for not going too fast and for zooming in. I liked how the engine was clean. Mine is not clean at all and the fasteners are obscured. Your video was very helpful.
Thanks! Recommend before doing the job, cover the alternator with aluminum foil and use aerosol brake clean spray solvent with compressed air to remove excess oil and grease build up. If no compressed air available, use water soluble engine cleaner with high pressure water hose. Both products available at Walmart's automotive department.
i was gonna say the same gets right to it, no bullshit and like i dont have to watch him for 20 minutes pull off one bolt. he fast forward threw that. also thank you @hardlymovingproductions
What a great detailed video! I’m not even doing this job and I watched the whole thing. I can see why OMB gave you the kit. I didn’t know the kit was so complete. I will remember them the next time I need parts. Can’t wait to watch other videos. Thanks!
Thanks alot for the great Video. I did to my vehicle and your video guided me to do this myself. Saved me few hundred Dollars that with the way things are now with inflation and gas is a great Thing... Thanks again...
well detailed and nice use of tools that helped in achieving the work done. can't be sure about DIY because some of us might lack the necessary tools. You made it look so easy
Thank you so much. Wonderful video. If I grit my teeth I might even have enough courage to do this job myself, with your help of course. If the cam and crank seal are not leaking would you recommend to ever not bother replacing them? Or always replace them? 🙏
Great video. Question. If the crank seal is seated below the face of the cover, will that create a problem, or is it critical to keep it flush with the face of the cover? I noticed an oil passage at the back of the OD for the seal at the 6 o'clock position. I have a feeling if the seal is driven in too far, it will be blocked? Thanks for your help.
Great video for beginners, I probably would shown the number 1 spark plug for tdc just in case they go the opposite direction on the crank pulley marks .
If you don’t have a 12m longer bolt you can use the tensioner bolt off the alternator, take off wing cap and torque by hand. Btw, you are the fing man ty!
@@hardlymovingpro thank you for sharing. You saved me from having to take it in. First time ever doing a job this intrusive, keep posting videos with this detail! Thank you again.
Thanks for the video , I have a important question ? How do you troubleshoot a crankshaft pulley that is not aligned with all pulleys on a 2014 Honda Civic ex 1.8
too bad not a chain but then can see point with seals needing change, so what about chains06+,,,seals go so more funthan this? What is cost of this job on 05s?
Problem with timing chain engines are: 1. Time chain cover RTV sealant brakes down and causes leaks. Requires a reseal which is time consuming. 2. Let the engine oil level drop too much and you have premature chain and guide wear if not piston journal wear. 3X time involved to replace vs a belt drive. 3. Only seal that might need replacement is the crankshaft seal which is seated in the chain cover ... easy replacement.
Can the timing belt be overtightened accidentally or was it a bad bearings or what? Because I got my timing belt, water pump and tensioner replaced on the auto repair shop at the same time, cam seals there are two of them were also replaced. because I just bought my civic 2005 3 months ago and not sure if the belt is replaced before So I think it's a good thing to have it replaced. The car runs smooth before the whole replacement scenario. But now, when car is in idle, it sounds normal but not as normal as it sounds before I got my engine timing belt area opened up. Now when you push the accelerator, you can hear a grinding noise in that timing belt-engine area. The sound is not squeaking sound, not a clunking or whatsoever but it was a grinding sound or a sound of a tight stuff being forced to move or turn something like that. I have no chance to go back to the shop since I moved to a new place days after. But the car's engine sound got worse now. Before replacing these parts, my car engine is silent and runs smooth no other issue whatsoever. I noticed the changes when I drove home from the shop, but I was thinking it's normal part of breaking in process, but days and months past it didn't go away. So I'm worried.
My car is a honda civic 2005, manual transmission. the issue is the grinding like sound after the whole timing belt, water pump, tensioner replacement.
I think this covers the 2001 civic as well right? 7th gen civic is 2001-2005. One question: why do you replace the water pump and the tensioner at the same time? Are those wear items that need to be replaced on the same interval as the timing belt?
I think you're right about the 7th generation using the same engine. The service interval on the belt is around 100k miles. I always replace the water pump and tensioner because I seriously doubt they'll last another 100k miles; and the last thing you need to address is a seized or leaking water pump 20 or 30k miles later.
excellent video ! Bought my 2002 Civic 11 years ago and drove for about 150000km so far, who knows if it was changed before me, so time to change timing belt
Show de bola amigo, vídeo bem detalhado, estes ensinamentos vão me ajudar muito. Assistindo no Brasil em 26/08/2021. Obrigado e muito sucesso pra vc sempre..
The thing I do not understand is, when you tighten 19mm bolt to turn engine counterclockwise, how do you ensure you can unbolt it later rather than keep engine rotating (Without impact tools)
Hey I noticed your top mark didn’t align with the bottom mark. I think you explained it, but all you need is to turn the crank shaft two times correct?
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah, I looked at your video and I saw the marks on the cam pulley and crank pulley. I’ve been looking at your timing belt work and I plan on working on my car too. Great work man, I have a 2001 Honda Civic lx the work should be similar right?
I have a 05 civic ex and can't figure out how to change the camshaft sensor. What all needs to be removed to get to it? I have got the timing belt cover off but just can't seem to get to that sensor with everything else in the way. Thanks.
th-cam.com/video/yXJgMLWpFc8/w-d-xo.html This video will show you how I removed the valve cover, etc. to get to the sensor. Honda, I believe, calls it a TDC (Top Dead Center) sensor.
Unsure if my timing belt is tight enough, spring doesn't seem that strong... I was told there is a twist test if you twist it 90 degrees/half a twist then that is fine... anymore than half a twist and it is too loose... does that sound correct?
Twist test only for the accessory belt ... not the timing belt. Best to rotate the engine a couple of times to remove any slack then tighten the tensioner pulley.
Hi, just watching ya vid, awesome job, quick question, how difficult is this job if my cambelt/upper timing belt has snapped, as mine snapped yesterday, my dad due to health is not able to help me, do u know if these engines are safe, or will I find bent valves etc, mine is a civic 2004, 1.6s ep2, seems a very similar set up, thanks in advance and hope to hear from you,
I've replaced belts that snapped in interference engines with success. So worth the shot replacing the belt. Valves bending depends on the rpm's of the engine when the belt snapped. Just align the cam and crank timing marks like you were doing a normal belt replacement.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks so much for the reply, I'm guessing my engine is an interference then, I wasn't going too fast too be fair, as it happened on a roundabout, thanks again, im gonna hope n pray not done damage, thanks again
The seals should be flush with the outer housing that holds the seals. New seals may leak if the seal was forced in to hard and the inner lip turned inside-out. Coat the new seal with silicone grease and carefully "spin" the seal in.
Hello. The colour of the coolant looks like IAT...shouldn't it be HOAT coolant? That would save the aluminum and the water pump in the long run. Correct me if im wrong though. Great job BTW
HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) is used in European cars where there's high mineral content hard water. The universal coolant is OAT. And when mixed with distilled water eliminates hard water corrosion issues.
A very educational video.. It would be great for the beginners...etc. Suggestions..to help the not so learned mechanics.... Would help if you identify the tools you are using in a slower manner so we could catch it as you use it.. Hard to catch them as the video runs so fast. Should one use Honda parts? Some you tubers like ETCG said only to use Honda parts Just wondering.. Enjoy the video but do not have the tools to tackle it outright. Thanks again for a great job.
Thanks for your post and comments! Most or all of the tools I used is in the "Show More" section of the video. Honda, Toyota, Nissan ... etc., don't make these parts. They outsource it all and relabel it to their company name. Mitsuboshi and Bando make belts, GMB and Koyo make bearings, Denso and NGK make mostly electrical components, KYB and Tokico make suspension components, Aisin make almost everything (i.e. transmissions), Akebono make brakes ... see where I'm going? Everything is outsourced.
@@hardlymovingpro I managed to do this job successfully. The hardest part was getting the crank seal out and back in. I used the extractor tool, paint can opener tool, and even a flathead to collapse the seal. Eventually I got it but I was so scared. I should have just used the paint can opener tool in the first place to get the best leverage before the seal got too chewed up. Thanks for making this video. Merry Christmas.
should we replace tensioner, what kind of your consideration? if the bearing still be ok. or tension of the inside spring you consider that, taking into account, that's so expensive, what's your comment,pal ?
@@mercpindi5522 i wouldn’t think so unless it leaked so much that the engine runs out of oil. You would have to keep an eye on the oil level to make sure that doesn’t happen
I don’t get why it matters where exactly you attach your timing belt at. As long as the cam and crankshaft are TDC, isn’t that all that matters? You should be able to put your belt on any which way… and since the cam and crank are aligned the belt will rotate them in sync… or am I missing something?
@@hardlymovingpro ok good. I was scared cuz I’m doing my timing belt and I didn’t mark it on the belt before I took the belt off. So, if I make sure the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys are TDC before I put the new belt on, I’ll be good to go? I have the head off, so TDC for the crankshaft pulley is basically the highest point for piston 1, right?
That's correct. May want to advance the cam one cog to ease belt installation. Then set it back after the install to check alignment with no slack on the belt.
I have an EP2 with d16v1 having weird ignition advance values, so I guess the timing belt is streched. I've never done major jobs like this, and kinda afraid but any garage would charge a couple hundred euros for this. :(
Would this be a 3.5-hour Flagged job...??? Certainly much more complicated than the timing belt I did on my 1992 Ford Probe with 4-cylinder 20 years ago.....
@@hardlymovingpro This Honda timing belt job really did seem almost as complicated or as complicated as the Lexus redo project which has the same engine my 1999 Toyota Solara has: the 3.0 l V6 1mzfe.
I use a high mass impact socket with a impact gun to torque to the crank bolt on (as shown in the video). That get's you close to or more than 180 lbs.
You forgot to tell us about the crankshaft bolt being near impossible to remove, snapped a 1/2 extension bar off with a 5 ft. cheater, the bolt is still on. air impact wrench and electric impact wrench didn't budge the bolt.
At the 5:00 minute mark I stated use a high mass impact socket with an impact tool to remove the crank pulley. Also I provided a purchase link to the socket In the description of this video.
@@hardlymovingpro My apologies, I didn't catch the high mass part of the socket description. It would have been nice if you had mentioned that that bolt, as I now know, is notorious for being difficult to remove and likely will require the special socket, highest power impact wrench, or a 3/4" or 1' socket breaker bar with a 6-10 ft cheater.
@@whycantibehooskerdo No problem. Those high mass sockets are lifesavers taking off stubborn crankshaft bolts. Toyota's 3.3L V6 22mm crank bolt is impossible to take off without that socket! The beauty of it is you don't need a high torque impact gun.
After watching the video I’m still paying the next Mf 600$ and 150$ for parts and labor to do this on my Honda don’t did radiator hoes . Sensors . Thermostat. Oil pressure sensors . Oil changes .coolant Flushers all to realize it was the water pump causing it to run hot
I can’t get the crank shaft bolt to come loose, the impact won’t come loose and I can’t use a braker bar on it cause it just spins the motor over any ideas on how to get it off?
I think god sent this man for every Honda owner, thank you sir.
Thanks! 😍
You did an excellent job. Thank you for not going too fast and for zooming in. I liked how the engine was clean. Mine is not clean at all and the fasteners are obscured. Your video was very helpful.
Thanks! Recommend before doing the job, cover the alternator with aluminum foil and use aerosol brake clean spray solvent with compressed air to remove excess oil and grease build up. If no compressed air available, use water soluble engine cleaner with high pressure water hose. Both products available at Walmart's automotive department.
You have some of the best automotive repair videos on TH-cam! Extremely detailed! Thank you so much!
Appreciate your comment and support! We try to make repair videos you can actually use.
i was gonna say the same gets right to it, no bullshit and like i dont have to watch him for 20 minutes pull off one bolt. he fast forward threw that. also thank you @hardlymovingproductions
What should a mechanic charge on average for this?? I wanna make sure im not getting duped. Anyone know?
@@olmec_____5536 here in LA they want like $300 plus parts. Depending on area u live in.
Amazing! You sir helped me figure out how to get the timing belt on the right way. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
What a great detailed video! I’m not even doing this job and I watched the whole thing. I can see why OMB gave you the kit. I didn’t know the kit was so complete. I will remember them the next time I need parts. Can’t wait to watch other videos. Thanks!
Meant to say GMB
Thanks for watching!
I know.
Very detailed work. I didn’t know it existed cam and crankshaft seal fitting tool kit. I guess if you have a wide enough socket, it will do just fine.
True. A big socket would work.
Thanks alot for the great Video. I did to my vehicle and your video guided me to do this myself.
Saved me few hundred Dollars that with the way things are now with inflation and gas is a great Thing...
Thanks again...
You bet!
well detailed and nice use of tools that helped in achieving the work done. can't be sure about DIY because some of us might lack the necessary tools. You made it look so easy
Thanks!
Brother, thank you for the awesome video and actually including what counts and the info needed. You are awesome! Keep on keepin on!
I appreciate that!
I’m about to change the water pump and timing belt on my son 2005 civic and got all the right tools to get the job done this time 😀
Good for you!
Thank you so much. Wonderful video. If I grit my teeth I might even have enough courage to do this job myself, with your help of course.
If the cam and crank seal are not leaking would you recommend to ever not bother replacing them? Or always replace them? 🙏
With Honda's, if not leaking, don't replace them. Toyota, on the other hand, do replace.
Great vid thx. Better than all the others I've watched, great tips & hints.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Oh man this is awesome! Thanks sooo much for the list of items used!! Gotta make a shopping trip! 😂
Have fun!
Great step by step video. I need to do the same to mine. Thank you for posting.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Question. If the crank seal is seated below the face of the cover, will that create a problem, or is it critical to keep it flush with the face of the cover? I noticed an oil passage at the back of the OD for the seal at the 6 o'clock position. I have a feeling if the seal is driven in too far, it will be blocked? Thanks for your help.
Thanks! Not critical to keep the seal flush with the cover. Also the seal shouldn't go in that much pass the cover.
Great video for beginners, I probably would shown the number 1 spark plug for tdc just in case they go the opposite direction on the crank pulley marks .
Great tip!
If you don’t have a 12m longer bolt you can use the tensioner bolt off the alternator, take off wing cap and torque by hand. Btw, you are the fing man ty!
Thanks for sharing!
@@hardlymovingpro thank you for sharing. You saved me from having to take it in. First time ever doing a job this intrusive, keep posting videos with this detail! Thank you again.
You bet!
Anyone notice the loose floorboards at 5:54 ?
Outstnding effort and work - TY for sharing this with us. :)
You bet!
Thanks for the video , I have a important question ? How do you troubleshoot a crankshaft pulley that is not aligned with all pulleys on a 2014 Honda Civic ex 1.8
I have no idea.
too bad not a chain but then can see point with seals needing change, so what about chains06+,,,seals go so more funthan this? What is cost of this job on 05s?
Problem with timing chain engines are: 1. Time chain cover RTV sealant brakes down and causes leaks. Requires a reseal which is time consuming. 2. Let the engine oil level drop too much and you have premature chain and guide wear if not piston journal wear. 3X time involved to replace vs a belt drive. 3. Only seal that might need replacement is the crankshaft seal which is seated in the chain cover ... easy replacement.
nice explanation even for a beginner.keep it up..
Glad you liked it!
Can the timing belt be overtightened accidentally or was it a bad bearings or what? Because I got my timing belt, water pump and tensioner replaced on the auto repair shop at the same time, cam seals there are two of them were also replaced. because I just bought my civic 2005 3 months ago and not sure if the belt is replaced before So I think it's a good thing to have it replaced. The car runs smooth before the whole replacement scenario. But now, when car is in idle, it sounds normal but not as normal as it sounds before I got my engine timing belt area opened up. Now when you push the accelerator, you can hear a grinding noise in that timing belt-engine area. The sound is not squeaking sound, not a clunking or whatsoever but it was a grinding sound or a sound of a tight stuff being forced to move or turn something like that. I have no chance to go back to the shop since I moved to a new place days after. But the car's engine sound got worse now. Before replacing these parts, my car engine is silent and runs smooth no other issue whatsoever. I noticed the changes when I drove home from the shop, but I was thinking it's normal part of breaking in process, but days and months past it didn't go away. So I'm worried.
My car is a honda civic 2005, manual transmission. the issue is the grinding like sound after the whole timing belt, water pump, tensioner replacement.
Check your timing belt covers.
How similar/different is the Non-V-Tech 1.7? I need to do all of this on my 05 civic lx 1.7
Hadn't worked on the 1.7 so I can't say. I'd assume similar.
Super detailed work, thanks so much.
You bet!
I think this covers the 2001 civic as well right? 7th gen civic is 2001-2005.
One question: why do you replace the water pump and the tensioner at the same time? Are those wear items that need to be replaced on the same interval as the timing belt?
I think you're right about the 7th generation using the same engine. The service interval on the belt is around 100k miles. I always replace the water pump and tensioner because I seriously doubt they'll last another 100k miles; and the last thing you need to address is a seized or leaking water pump 20 or 30k miles later.
excellent video ! Bought my 2002 Civic 11 years ago and drove for about 150000km so far, who knows if it was changed before me, so time to change timing belt
Thanks for sharing!
I have a 2005 civic se I’m about to do this to 😭 this video will be good to follow along as I do it! Thank you!
You bet and good luck!
How’d it go? I have to do this to my 05 civic vp soon. It’s making a terrible noise by the belt área 🥲
Show de bola amigo, vídeo bem detalhado, estes ensinamentos vão me ajudar muito. Assistindo no Brasil em 26/08/2021. Obrigado e muito sucesso pra vc sempre..
When it's out of timing do I turn it clockwise or counter clockwise ?
Can be both. You'll have to align the camshaft and crankshaft TDC markings.
Thanks bud
Do you have keep turning the bolt til the top is up and the bottom is lined up with the arrow ?
Yes ... if the belt has been installed properly.
Excellent Tutorial
Glad you liked it!
Liked the idea of not de attaching 12v feed cable and connector for the alternator it's just such a pain to disconnect it safely with out damage
You got that right!
The thing I do not understand is, when you tighten 19mm bolt to turn engine counterclockwise, how do you ensure you can unbolt it later rather than keep engine rotating (Without impact tools)
They sell and rent pulley holding tools
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks, turns out old belt can hold it just fine! Maybe it helps someone
Hey I noticed your top mark didn’t align with the bottom mark. I think you explained it, but all you need is to turn the crank shaft two times correct?
You mean the paint alignment marks I made?
@@hardlymovingpro
Yeah, I looked at your video and I saw the marks on the cam pulley and crank pulley. I’ve been looking at your timing belt work and I plan on working on my car too. Great work man, I have a 2001 Honda Civic lx the work should be similar right?
I have a 05 civic ex and can't figure out how to change the camshaft sensor. What all needs to be removed to get to it? I have got the timing belt cover off but just can't seem to get to that sensor with everything else in the way. Thanks.
th-cam.com/video/yXJgMLWpFc8/w-d-xo.html This video will show you how I removed the valve cover, etc. to get to the sensor. Honda, I believe, calls it a TDC (Top Dead Center) sensor.
Unsure if my timing belt is tight enough, spring doesn't seem that strong...
I was told there is a twist test if you twist it 90 degrees/half a twist then that is fine... anymore than half a twist and it is too loose... does that sound correct?
Twist test only for the accessory belt ... not the timing belt. Best to rotate the engine a couple of times to remove any slack then tighten the tensioner pulley.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you!
What size chain strap wrench would be sufficient to grab that sprocket?
Get the vice grip chain strap wrench.
I rented that tool for 30 bucks from oreiley. They didn’t have the chain one but they had something that did the same for one cam sprocket.
Will be doing my 98 Honda prelude soon.
Let us know how it turns out!
Does the woodruff pin sit all the way in?
yes
@@hardlymovingpro is it suppose to sit half way into the harmonic balancer? I noticed it sits perfect on the timing crank teeth before setting pulley.
Hi, just watching ya vid, awesome job, quick question, how difficult is this job if my cambelt/upper timing belt has snapped, as mine snapped yesterday, my dad due to health is not able to help me, do u know if these engines are safe, or will I find bent valves etc, mine is a civic 2004, 1.6s ep2, seems a very similar set up, thanks in advance and hope to hear from you,
I've replaced belts that snapped in interference engines with success. So worth the shot replacing the belt. Valves bending depends on the rpm's of the engine when the belt snapped. Just align the cam and crank timing marks like you were doing a normal belt replacement.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks so much for the reply, I'm guessing my engine is an interference then, I wasn't going too fast too be fair, as it happened on a roundabout, thanks again, im gonna hope n pray not done damage, thanks again
Solid fucken tutorial. Thank you sir. Also only video I've been able to find of the exact year and model I have lol.
Glad you found the video useful!
Good video! Do you have head gasket, valve job or ring job maybe?
Thanks! It would be a very time consuming video to produce and most viewers would fall asleep.
Excellent vid
Thanks!
Should I replace the upper timing belt cover of it came off without removing valve cover
I would.
Any idea why my sprocket doesn’t just go back on?
Seems to need pressing
Cam or crank? They both use a woodruff key. Wire brush, grease and retry.
hey great video, probably one of the best ones I've seen out there. The only step that no one else does, why did you lower the engine to set TDC?
Thanks! Don't recall the reason.
How far in do the crankshaft and camshafts seals go in? My seals keep leaking even if new
The seals should be flush with the outer housing that holds the seals. New seals may leak if the seal was forced in to hard and the inner lip turned inside-out. Coat the new seal with silicone grease and carefully "spin" the seal in.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you and yeah I just order a crank and cam seal tool kit. I think I forced my new seal and leaks worse and its oem seal
Hello. The colour of the coolant looks like IAT...shouldn't it be HOAT coolant? That would save the aluminum and the water pump in the long run. Correct me if im wrong though. Great job BTW
HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) is used in European cars where there's high mineral content hard water. The universal coolant is OAT. And when mixed with distilled water eliminates hard water corrosion issues.
Hey Thanks. This Really helped.
Glad to hear!
Does the thermostat need to be changed at this time also?
Not at all.
Thank you
You bet!
Do you have this replacement video for a 2008 Civic?
Not yet.
Another great video of yours God bless you brother.
Thanks. Making this video took a lot of effort and we very much appreciate your comments!
A very educational video.. It would be great for the beginners...etc.
Suggestions..to help the not so learned mechanics....
Would help if you identify the tools you are using in a slower manner so we could catch it as you use it.. Hard to catch them as the video runs so fast. Should one use Honda parts? Some you tubers like ETCG said only to use Honda parts Just wondering..
Enjoy the video but do not have the tools to tackle it outright.
Thanks again for a great job.
Thanks for your post and comments! Most or all of the tools I used is in the "Show More" section of the video. Honda, Toyota, Nissan ... etc., don't make these parts. They outsource it all and relabel it to their company name. Mitsuboshi and Bando make belts, GMB and Koyo make bearings, Denso and NGK make mostly electrical components, KYB and Tokico make suspension components, Aisin make almost everything (i.e. transmissions), Akebono make brakes ... see where I'm going? Everything is outsourced.
How did you get it so the crankshaft didn't rotate
If it rotates, I reposition the shaft via the crankshaft pulley bolt.
@@hardlymovingpro I managed to do this job successfully. The hardest part was getting the crank seal out and back in.
I used the extractor tool, paint can opener tool, and even a flathead to collapse the seal. Eventually I got it but I was so scared. I should have just used the paint can opener tool in the first place to get the best leverage before the seal got too chewed up.
Thanks for making this video. Merry Christmas.
You bet and congrats for finishing a successful repair! Thanks for sharing!
Need this video for a 2002 v6 Accord. Enjoyed the video. Glad I found your channel.
Thanks and glad you enjoyed it!
Tuff skillz Im lerning A lot from u 👍🏻
Good for you and glad it's helping you out!
should we replace tensioner, what kind of your consideration? if the bearing still be ok. or tension of the inside spring you consider that, taking into account, that's so expensive, what's your comment,pal ?
Bearings could be okay now but do you feel confident they'll last to the next belt change (100k miles)?
Awesome.. Thank U
Glad you liked it!
Nice mechanic
Thanks
Why my 2005 Honda Civic whistle when I rubb the engine
Can't say without seeing the car.
Where did you get that seal driver kit
Here's the link to Amazon: amzn.to/2Y01T54
What is the size of camshaft oil seal
Don't know. New one came with the TB kit.
If crankshaft seal have been replaced with a new seal why do I see still see some oil coming out from the same area ? 🤔
Sometimes the quality of the replacement seal may be no good, the seal turned inside-out or was damaged during installation.
@@hardlymovingpro would that damage the engine in the long run ?
@@mercpindi5522 i wouldn’t think so unless it leaked so much that the engine runs out of oil. You would have to keep an eye on the oil level to make sure that doesn’t happen
good job
Thank you! Cheers!
very god tenk you
You bet!
I don’t get why it matters where exactly you attach your timing belt at. As long as the cam and crankshaft are TDC, isn’t that all that matters? You should be able to put your belt on any which way… and since the cam and crank are aligned the belt will rotate them in sync… or am I missing something?
Technically you are correct. But for 1st time installers, using paint marks raises their confidence that the install was done correctly.
@@hardlymovingpro ok good. I was scared cuz I’m doing my timing belt and I didn’t mark it on the belt before I took the belt off.
So, if I make sure the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys are TDC before I put the new belt on, I’ll be good to go?
I have the head off, so TDC for the crankshaft pulley is basically the highest point for piston 1, right?
That's correct. May want to advance the cam one cog to ease belt installation. Then set it back after the install to check alignment with no slack on the belt.
My pulley will not come off idk what to do
Get either a 2 or 3 prong puller tool.
@@hardlymovingpro yea i ended up finding a pickle and getting it off that way
Whatever works!
smart mechanic, awesome, i will learn from your quick and smart repair. 👍👍👍 i subcribe it
Awesome, thank you!
I need this done to my Honda, do you live in FL?
Memphis
I have an EP2 with d16v1 having weird ignition advance values, so I guess the timing belt is streched. I've never done major jobs like this, and kinda afraid but any garage would charge a couple hundred euros for this. :(
A stretched timing belt would effect performance when the engine is under load IMHO.
Would this be a 3.5-hour Flagged job...???
Certainly much more complicated than the timing belt I did on my 1992 Ford Probe with 4-cylinder 20 years ago.....
Maybe add 1 hour if never done before.
@@hardlymovingpro
This Honda timing belt job really did seem almost as complicated or as complicated as the Lexus redo project which has the same engine my 1999 Toyota Solara has: the 3.0 l V6 1mzfe.
Merci
You bet!
Where are you located?...
East of Memphis TN. Germantown.
Affordable taxes vs Ct high taxes
Crankshaft and campshaft oil seal number can you give me
I used what came in the GMB timing belt/water pump kit.
I thought the crankshaft bolt was torqued to 180 not 80 ft/lbs.
I use a high mass impact socket with a impact gun to torque to the crank bolt on (as shown in the video). That get's you close to or more than 180 lbs.
Topp
You forgot to tell us about the crankshaft bolt being near impossible to remove, snapped a 1/2 extension bar off with a 5 ft. cheater, the bolt is still on. air impact wrench and electric impact wrench didn't budge the bolt.
At the 5:00 minute mark I stated use a high mass impact socket with an impact tool to remove the crank pulley. Also I provided a purchase link to the socket In the description of this video.
@@hardlymovingpro My apologies, I didn't catch the high mass part of the socket description. It would have been nice if you had mentioned that that bolt, as I now know, is notorious for being difficult to remove and likely will require the special socket, highest power impact wrench, or a 3/4" or 1' socket breaker bar with a 6-10 ft cheater.
@@whycantibehooskerdo No problem. Those high mass sockets are lifesavers taking off stubborn crankshaft bolts. Toyota's 3.3L V6 22mm crank bolt is impossible to take off without that socket! The beauty of it is you don't need a high torque impact gun.
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Thanks!
First
Must be nice to have your own camera guy...
Only way to make quality videos.
Nice guide, but timming locking set costs few dolars...
Thanks for sharing!
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Thanks!
Dealer wants $1200 out the door to do the job. Good 👍or Bad 👎???..Taking in consideration I don't have all the tools.
Too much ... IMHO. Maybe around $800
Gates or aisin timing belt kits $125 to $175 , tools needed maybe $100 to 200 start at harbor freight
After watching the video I’m still paying the next Mf 600$ and 150$ for parts and labor to do this on my Honda don’t did radiator hoes . Sensors . Thermostat. Oil pressure sensors . Oil changes .coolant Flushers all to realize it was the water pump causing it to run hot
Sorry to learn of your bad experience.
Crankshaft pulley is missing two of the outer edge notches will I have to replace it? Or can I use it
Are you referring to the woodruff keys?
I can’t get the crank shaft bolt to come loose, the impact won’t come loose and I can’t use a braker bar on it cause it just spins the motor over any ideas on how to get it off?
You'll need to use this high mass 19mm impact socket with your impact tool: amzn.to/3ARME3U