Let's Build a Tool Sharpener - Part 3
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 เม.ย. 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks, I’m working on a tool sharpener! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
Buy Blondihacks stuff in my store! www.blondihacks.com/store
Have questions? Try my FAQ! blondihacks.com/frequently-an...
Here are links for many of the tools that you see me using:
(I earn small commissions on these links)
• Shrum Solutions face mill: www.shrumsolutions.com/shop?p...
• 6mm CCMT Boring Bar | Shrum Solutions: www.shrumsolutions.com/produc...
• D. Gray kits for the home shop : d-gray-drafting-and-design.my...
• The Original Rose Index : rosenthalproducts.com/
• Mill clamping set : amzn.to/2xc9vqr
• Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/2IJsAUs
• Zero Flute Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/3bmPLPe
• NOGA Deburring set : amzn.to/2Jv3RlW
• NOGA Reversible Deburring Tool : amzn.to/2X07WX1
• Knurling Tool : amzn.to/2FblXb1
• Tapered Reamer : amzn.to/2Gn0b3G
• Chucking Reamer set : amzn.to/3odnVvh
• Nicholson files : amzn.to/2VcHkls
• Nicholson needle files : amzn.to/2BDt7ph
• 1-2-3 Blocks : amzn.to/2EvAsGq
• Dormer center drills : amzn.to/2X7U6ij
• 6” Divider : amzn.to/2GTncM3
• NOGA arm with magnetic base : amzn.to/2U2bGTI
• NOGA arm Big Boy : amzn.to/381acji
• Collet Block set : amzn.to/2UkF1vZ
• DeWalt drill and driver kit : amzn.to/2Gp6IeJ
• DeWalt portable band saw : amzn.to/2U4Mhsw
• DeWalt band saw blades : amzn.to/2H2J4X0
• High Speed Steel parting blade : amzn.to/2YcdYBv
• High Speed Steel blade holder : amzn.to/2JgO0IK
• High Speed Steel tool blanks : amzn.to/2H1qoqr
• Grizzly Pre-ground tool bits : amzn.to/2H4yr5z
• AXA tool holders : amzn.to/2V1gOHl
• Quick Change Toolpost : amzn.to/310mshq
• Norton oil stone kit : amzn.to/2EbLEH3
• Norton small sharpening stone: amzn.to/2PQwex9
• End mills : amzn.to/2U76Vsf
• Milling machine starter pack : amzn.to/2tA2M4e
• Forceps : amzn.to/2Ww5dFT
• Mill Parallels : amzn.to/2lfW82i
• GearWrench ratcheting tap & die set : amzn.to/2lMwZfV
• Step bits : amzn.to/2q54yfJ
• Starrett automatic center punch : amzn.to/2DCI7C9
• Budget transfer punch set : amzn.to/2yfDgHi
• Precision shim stock : amzn.to/34lJlME
• Jet 2-ton press : amzn.to/2SLas1s
• Gear Wrench locking puller : amzn.to/2ubBV1W
• Starrett tap wrenches : amzn.to/35jxM9e
• Goldenrod oiler : amzn.to/2TTS0En
• Acid brushes : amzn.to/36qWCo5
• Cratex (Bright Boy) block : amzn.to/38fNm72
• Scotchbrite deburring wheel : amzn.to/3ks0P2V
• Fein Turbo I shop vac : amzn.to/2vXpech
• Machinist’s scale : amzn.to/2Zk6oVj
• Mixed metric/imperial dial caliper : amzn.to/2KKARYY
• Mitutoyo dial caliper : amzn.to/2IMIxJE
• Mitutoyo micrometer set : amzn.to/2GtICPx
• Mitutoyo depth micrometer : amzn.to/33M8aSH
• Mitutoyo edge finder : amzn.to/2G36omq
• Mitutoyo dial indicator : amzn.to/2H09gBr
• Mitutoyo dial test indicator : amzn.to/2E5lRQw
• Coaxial indicator : amzn.to/3bbBEwE
• Mitutoyo telescoping gauge set : amzn.to/2Z6houn
• Fowler dial bore gauge : amzn.to/2KQJNf2
• Fowler inside micrometer : amzn.to/2TVm7Jo
• Starrett 98-6 Level : amzn.to/38K7lMD
• Grizzly Height Gage : amzn.to/2PDTr7i
• Thread Checker : amzn.to/2CpvAUU
• The Amateur’s Lathe book : amzn.to/3jIYlwe
• Anchor Lube : amzn.to/2H9X6oQ
• Boeshield T-9 : amzn.to/2TCE0wB
• Brownell’s Oxpho Blue : amzn.to/2YhZTmR
• JAX Metal Blackener : amzn.to/2MVe8wj
• Dykem layout fluid : amzn.to/2U7KQts
• Dykem dauber : amzn.to/2uoXtbm
• Tap Magic cutting oil : amzn.to/3j8kNnR
• WD-40 : amzn.to/2GYV8rY
• Super 77 Spray Glue : amzn.to/2YScxZl
• Loctite 603 : amzn.to/2EYsPbi
• Loctite 242 : amzn.to/2RIt3sQ
• Way oil : amzn.to/38Gl9qW
• High pressure grease : amzn.to/2GloHTd
• CMD Extreme Pressure lube : amzn.to/36JPNy9
• Dry graphite lube : amzn.to/2U0YEZH
• 3-in-1 oil : amzn.to/36in43e
• Kroil : amzn.to/2uCf1RL
• Evaporust : amzn.to/36NSkII
• Brasso : amzn.to/3buE6yL
Commenting policy : blondihacks.com/commenting-po...
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![ไม่ต้องมีที่ที่ให้ฉันอยู่ แต่ขอแค่มีฉันอยู่ก็พอ (Spaceless) - getsunova [SHORT FILM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MuT0d_cvJkc/mqdefault.jpg)
My parents got me a little drafting table when I was a kid, with that four-link mechanism.
Lasers aren't magic, unless you attach them to sharks.
Ah.. those old fashioned ones.. at school, we had the "Gantry type" and i later bought a small one that you could clamp to a board, for A3 Size Paper.. before CAD it served me well..
I hope you accept this with the appreciation in which I give it: Every time I think of a term or operation seconds before you use/do it, I think of how much I owe you (and others) for the education you've provided while I'm being entertained. I can count on one hand the number of times I've run a mill or lathe (maybe both if you count CNC) but watching them run is just beautiful.
Well said !
I have a drillpress, a lathe and jer schmidts belt grinder and let me Tell you, I can totally relate to what you've written. What Quinn and so many others have tought me is pure madness compared to what i've learned from any other source, period.
Much love to all of them!!
I was wondering about the block. It's all so obvious when you see it there in context. Nice job 👍
Oh, yeah, IKEA toggle bolts FTW!! And, yeah, I recognized that one immediately! When I first acquired a 32-year-old VW Jetta 1.6D Mk2 I had to replace the parking brake cables; while I was adjusting the parking brake I lost one of the jam nuts, gah, and despite having a massive plethora of metric nuts I couldn't find one to fit so I dug into a box of IKEA hardware that I'd gotten from the as-is section at IKEA and found an IKEA toggle bolt that fit perfectly. I DD'd that Jetta with that IKEA toggle bolt readily visible (never got around to putting the parking brake boot back on, lol) for many years until last summer when it was totalled by a schmuck running a red light. R.I.P. Jetta with its IKEA toggle bolt.
the only perfect martial cutting process is the this old tony karate chop
Or his one inch punch 😂
Quinn, I started the same quest several years ago to find a full set of Metric stub length drill bits and had absolutely no luck even looking to European and Asian sources. I ended up buying them a handful at a time from McMaster-Carr and later AFT Fasteners depending on which was cheaper for a given size. I chose Norseman black oxide coated because it was the type that McMaster had the most sizes available when i began the project. (yes, I’m aware that black oxide is not optimal for aluminum but i get away with it by using WD-40 when needed) I ordered the Huot 11825 118 piece Metric combination index on eBay and it was about $60 at the time (2016?) but has now risen to a brain-numbing $177on amazon and $155 on eBay. I was required to draw and laser cut a bunch of Plexiglas spacers to strategically screw to the insides of the drill pockets to keep the stub length bits from disappearing down into the holes designed for jobber length bits. I still several years in haven’t found every single size to fill the set and have skipped some of the larger ones for reasons of economy. I’d say in 2024, getting near a complete set with this approach will cost between $700 - $1K. I also have a Norseman black and gold finish full set of jobber length that I see goes for about $400 and they are gorgeous but that’s not what was asked so…
Also, THANKS FOR YOUR AMAZING CHANNEL!
Wow- you read my mind. I was formulating this exact same plan just last night. I have the same Huot empty drill index bookmarked 😂. That’s likely what I will do as well. Buy the case, and gradually fill it with drills as I need them. I like your idea of filler plates to make the short drills fit. I’ll borrow that idea.
Beautifully done, Quinn. Now I've got to see how that block ties in to everything else. I can't figure it out just yet.
Hey Quinn. I wanted to say last week how impressed I am with your water tender. You have truly done a masterful job. Even dealing with some of the challenges or mistakes, you turned into a win.
It looks amazing and you must be so proud. Looking forward to the locomotive. I'll bet that one will throw you a lot of curves but as always you will work your way through them all.
Nice job and please accept my virtual pat on the back attaboy. (OK make that "attagirl" even if that sounds kinda odd). I'm impressed and your cat's total disinterest speaks volumes.
Despite your earlier lament, EDM is in fact in your shop @ 16:53 😁
I didn't even get all the way through the Futurama quote on my head before you called me out for it.
Thanks for clearing up what that odd shaped block is for. Really brought the project together!
Another great video Quinn, thank you! I would like to add a bit of additional information, if you don't mind. What you created there, and test assembled at the end of the video, is actually TWO four-bar linkages. Starting from the clamp, the first disk counts as a bar, then two actual bars, then the disk in the center of the mechanism makes the four bars of a four-bar linkage. Then, if you start again at the center disk (the two four-bars can share a bar), you have the center disk as the first bar, two parallel bars, and then the rectangular piece you put in for mock-up purposes makes the fourth bar. So in fact, you made two four-bar linkages connected in the center!
The 4 bar linkage is the same mechanism as the old drafting machines I used in the 70s, which I preferred over later drafting machine, before CAD took over. It's a really sweet set-up.
Block (upon being completed and gaining sentience): “How may I assist you?”
Quinn: “Please pass the butter.”
Block (passing the butter): “Maker, what is my life’s purpose?”
Quinn: “To pass the butter.”
Block: “Oh, god…😢”
Give ‘em the clamps, Clamps!
Nice to see Hamilton mentioned, my home town. I knew you’d appreciate using stub drills, resistance is futile!
So reference the drill bit set, on amazon (UK) there is BAER HSSE & HSSG sets (i.e. 2 separate sets) available from 1 to 6 and 6 to 10 mm in 0.1mm increments, however I've not seen bigger than 10mm in anything less than 0.5mm. hopefully gives you a starting point though.
I'm currently taking the class in engineering school that's covering 4-bar linkages. So yes, they are useful
Quinn, I have been able to get EDM consistently in my shop. Often it is Fat Boy Slim. On occasion Skrillex. Oh, and fine, Daft Punk, too. Surprised this magic remains inaccessible to you.
My punk rock arse needs an occasional Fat Boy Slim to even things out.
I Do have a Wire EDM machine.. and indeed.. it's like magic, cutting Solid Carbide without even touching it..
Very interesting machine all around. That clamp was just spot on.
Pantograph milling is a pet fascination of mine. Also watching your view counter roll over while I type this!!! More than 200!!
Anyway, thank you for your postings! I do always learn something. You're the BEST!
Just finsihed my Design of Machinery class and it was really hard. Glad I can enjoy the application of what I learnt now
Hey my dad got me the same gift been a few years. I keep my punches in the holes. I gab it and go and already have all the punches with it. It just more fun when I can see all the right things I will need. Thanks for sharing.
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!!!
I recently put a Starrett blade on my horizontal band saw and the improvement from the original was night and day!
Clever use of that linkage on a tool sharpener. We shared this video (alongside the first two parts) on our homemade tool forum last week. 😎
Hi Quinn, when I made my version I followed Gary’s videos, this would be a perfect use of your float lock vice! Still great work & enjoy the hints & tips, Kerrin
just a quick note, albeit a little pedantic; that is actually 2 four bar linkages. the first four bar is between the clamp, the intermediate plate, and the two lower bars, and the second four bar linakge is between the intermediate plate, the two upper bars, and that temporary aluminum plate. It is a bit confusing because you did only make four bars for the whole system, so it is easy to say it is a single four bar linkage.
Usually, a single 2-dimensional four bar linkage only has one degree of freedom, i..e. it is fully constrained except for it's one path of travel. Look at the back end of a mountain bike for example, many of those have four bar linkages to control the rear suspension. Because you have two four bar linkages, you can move in two degrees of freedom, up and down and side to side, but you are constrained rotationally.
Also note that none of this applies to something like an automotive four bar linkage suspension because that is a 3d space and you have 2 degrees of freedom from a single linkage (kinda)
EDM machining sure is pure magic!
I usually put in stop first before measuring. I just put part where I want it to be at, then put stop, loosen jaws, put part against stop, then start doing stuff.
I really enjoy following your videos. Absolutely amazing. Brava
Greetings from Russia. Your ideas are inspiring. I have been working as a milling machine operator for 40 years. Your devices are very useful for me
The Clamps *and* Kipf? Two Futurama references in one video!
05:40 hey, that frame saw collaboration video got me to your channel! Ahh good old times 🙂 I'm glad that you two did this, otherwise I probably would have never found the best machining content on TH-cam, and I would probably never have started to make my own metal tools for woodworking …!!! So, thank you, I guess? 😁
Rex got me interested in hand tool woodworking so the recruitment is mutual 😄
Ah yes, the block! Nothing like a nice cliffhanger. Not that it was necessary, I always hang around your channel saturdays looking for the new post.
Can confirm, those Starrett bimetal blades do the business. I got a tube of them, years ago, and... granted I've hardly done any metalwork since then, just don't have a place to set up and do anything unfortunately, but I have two in the electronics lab, one loose and one on a hacksaw proper. I've taken down more than a few feet of fiberglass PCB material with them both, and, I mean the edge is definitely dulling but they still cut a champ.
The only stuff they don't work on is ferrite, a glass-hard ceramic material I occasionally have to work; a sharp blade just barely digs in and scores the surface, but nothing I can get a consistent let alone deep cut going on. (That it even does that, is testament to the crazy carbides the bimetal teeth contain.) Need proper carbide or diamond tooling for that (for which I have a crap-box tile saw, SiC paper, and a diamond-embedded lap / sharpening stone), which work a treat.
❤Thank you for throwing some shade on the whole “laser-cut” thing…lasers are about as coherent as late 1990’s Latvian foreign policy (boy, that was a stretch…😮💨)
“Snugs down real good when tight” sounds like one of Bon Jovi’s lesser known albums. Thanks Quinn.
Loving the linkage!
Rex is enthusiastic, generous and all about making amazing stuff from very little. Is he Canadian? 😎
As usual. An excellent job.
6:52 _LIGHT_ cuts, Quinn. Whether that was deliberate or not I don't know, but thank you for that. 😊
"Gotta love a four bar linkage." ~Quinn
"I don't have to do anything". ~Mr. Pendleton (Pollyanna)
Hello Quin, nice job so far. Cheers 😷👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Quinn, helps a lot! ..and yeah, lasers aren't magical things; unless of course you're attaching them to sharks 🦈
I attach mine to my cat, if he feels frisky he aims it to the side and runs in circles. He loves to do that. Sometimes I change the direction, he needs to unwind, poor thing.
I'll tell ya, I wasn't expecting a colab with Rex! Thats rad
So precise love it
Love the emergency collet
I'm sure you considered this but curious if you indicated the dimples on the mill rather than using a drill press and letting drills self-center on them due to accuracy concerns, sizing of the holes, or some other factor? I probably would have YOLO'd it on the drill press and regretted it later so would love to be schooled on that.
Fascinating! Questions: did you undercut the threads on those locating pins? Is it necessary to do so?
You should send some of those nice hacksaw blades to hacksaw monster Artisan Makes.
Another question, I would imagine the orientation fidelity of a 4 bar linkage is related to the center distance on the 4 tie bars being as accurate as possible, would it make sense to stack and drill/ream the at the same time? Same with the disks.
So there are advantages to hogging blocks of otherwise anonymous steel into the round shapes needed for these clamps!
I have the plans but not the laser cut kit so I have to make do with whatever is lying around my Mens Shed (Australian version of a Maker Space) scrap pile. My box of shame is beginning to rival that of Inheritance Machining but I'm having fun and may even even end up with a useful tool. 😁
You can cut down some jobber metric bits and resharpen with your fancy sharpener. Would make a good video.
Great video - as always! I'm a little perplexed though. What I don't understand is why those discs are, well, discs. Wouldn't be sensible (read 'easier) to make them as squares? Am I missing something here? A question of aesthetics, perhaps?
Dormer Pramet has some fairly good stub drill sets. Not in 0.1mm but they at least have a 0.5mm set which includes tap drill sizes.
a Starrett hose clamp. for some reason I never saw that in the catalog!
It's all starting to make sense.
Yay me! I sort of understand!
Oop, got a bit overenthusiastic there.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Great job. Thank you 😊
Thanks Quinn
If you had tapered the back side of the alignment pins and turned a chamfer into the disk treaded holes (in a four jaw), would that have improved contricity from the treaded holes? Probably crazy overkill for a project like this…
Tack!
2:05 - I have seen some diy wire EDM on TH-cam, I would love for you to try and build one and then configure all the software. Ya know, in case you need ANOTHER project ☺️
I always love the: "Because shut up - that's why" reasoning.
LOL
You made a drafting machine! Cool.
Quinn made a model of my old drafting table!
I have an old (25+ years) stubby drill set from 1.5 to 12.5mm in 0.1mm increments but i have not seen any for sale anywhere these days.
And i even live in metric country.
Might be some company specialized in tooling that have something available but that usually also means specialized prices.
😭
Hi Quinn I live in the Netherlands and even I have trouble finding a stub drill set. Even individual stub drills are hard to find they come in packs of 5 to 10 mostly. My guess is that only cnc companies use then.
Originally they were called screw machine drill sizes. The back taper is the same, it just starts at the halfway point for them... cutting down a jobber length will lead to smaller holes as the original tip retreats toward the shank. Over all taper is called out in MH, this clearance saves a lot of hardened drill guides from overheating.
We used to have devices like that in our drawing office. They were so we could draw parallel lines consistently. We called them drawing machines but I think the correct term is Pantograph.
Not quite- a pantograph is a different linkage that also scales up or down
Not to be confused with the lesser-known ‘pantigraph’, which is used in the clothing industry to draw underwear…
@@mrimmortal1579 😄
Heck yeah, double 4 bar!
Quinn , in the shop I work in we now have a Mantra we deburr these parts because, this separates us from the animal's I don't know why it never gets old ?and you made that up? I believe in time it will be in the machinist handbook .....
Square logic says this phrase is at least 110 years old, last century lingo is still cool, today.
I thought it was chamfers that separated us from the animals. That, and the fact that we’re not frightened by vacuum cleaners…
I meant to write Champer, and I just I guess I had a Freudian slip. 😀😀😀
@@mrimmortal1579 We're _not_ frightened by vacuum cleaners? Have you ever heard one of those things?
if'n you used a cut tap, the minor dia "should" still be accurate, so you can just use gauge pins for reference.
And if she had rolled the threads?
@@CothranMike depending on the material, rolled thread minor dia is generally pretty accurate too, accurate enough anyway, once you get past the say the 3rd turn, though on a fairly thin part, I wouldn't do it that way.
disclaimer... its "fairly" accurate, you are already using a pin which is a secondary measurement, and even then there could be unseen issues in the thread, but for most hobby shop stuff its more then good enough (I used to run parts that had .005 true position, to a 6-32 thread... so there really isn't any "good" accurate method to locate something like that... we made the mating part too... it had +-.01" loc tolerance... and the holes were .015 oversize)
I wonder if a rotary table would make the pre-dimpled plates significantly less annoying, since you would just need to get your center plotted and then you can spin the workholding to get the other dimples to line up. Not that you have the space on that mill for three levels of workholding shenanigans, of course, just thinking generally.
Hey Quinn love your stuff but I have a question maybe you could make a video of.
I would like to make a long rack and pinion on the mill. I was wondering if you could make a video about grinding a d bit for milling the rack if you believe that would be a good idea.
Free refill of Swedish meatballs for that unexpected IKEA reference.❤ 🇸🇪
I saw a product being developed by some 3D printing enthusiasts a while back for home EDM using the frame from a cheap 3D printer. I think it was called PowerCore or something? Would be really cool to see you try that!
One medieval device we use on some aircraft to rig/verify the rudder system is a really (really) big 4-bar protractor. I call it The Widowmaker, because it'll happily provide enough leverage to effortlessly crush any digit you may have inattentively poked through the mechanism. I promise, you only ever do that once... Well, at least with *that* finger. 😂
Such a nice pantograph, let's see more 😛
When setting up that pre-dimpled stock where one of the dimples is a center, couldn't you set up and drill the center, then use it as a pivot point somehow while aligning the rest of the dimples?
Is this a precursor to building a D-bit grinder?😇
Or are you secretly planning an edm build??😁
it is the ever elusive B-bit grinder. the B is for Bench Grinder
@@nerddub 🤣
Maybe she'll design an 8 bit grinder!
Grinder? There is an app for that!
Could you grind the laser-scale off the part before cutting it on the lathe? Would that be any improvement?
Hi Quinn,
I did look back if i miss something ? But the fixtureplate you use did you make it yourself ?? And why the boltpatron so close to eatch other?? MAybe you can explain why this is?? Sorry if this all is not correct English... Keep up the good work. Love what you make !!!!!
Quinn, Whose kit is that. I think that I would like to take a look at it. Thanks! Ralph
Where is the video series with Rex? I can't seem to easily find it on either of your channels and would love to watch it!
Search for “turning saw pins”
@@Blondihacks Ok, thank you! I for some reason thought that it was done in the last week or something so was very confused.
Wouldn't a rotary table help with aligning of the holes?
Starrett was recently sold to a private equity firm. Be wary of their quality moving forward.
Rex Krueger is awesome! He's got really great bench plans on his site for cheap. I built his knock down workbench. I've taken it to fairs and used it to display our popcorn in fantastic fashion on many occasions. It's super strong. I think it could probably hold up a car if needed.
Taaaapy-tap-tap now has a second meaning! I almost felt a ripple in the space-time continuum 😳
You had me at four bar linkage.
so cool again!
lol, I liked the futurerama reference
Would a rotary table help with the Dimple Dance?
Maybe you could practice the This Old Tony karate style chopping for the perfect cutting?
some problem with those laser cut center punches is not only about the general precision on first cut you might be guided away from,
but its especially with those bars because they might end up with different centers for the hole and the outer rounded edges. this means you will always have some case of precision doubt if you will use these outer rounding for indicating. - probably only people with a turn table for the mill would be able to machine it in such a center-correct precision.
so i feel such a kit is meant for people having a rather slim set of machines - such as drilling and tapping with a simple drill presse or even by hand. having the skills and machines to do precision to such parts can be nice, but also think of shops that just say, it will work for me with lesser than accuracy to the last digit... i personally would end with 1/20 of a mm with my truly hobbyist set of measuring tools.
Was that an upside down audio tape editing block at the end?
did you ever thought about a tool to cut parabolic things on a lathe without cnc ? If not, please do so. I am the one who give you the first thumb-up (thats all ??!?!? sure :-) )
Such a tool didnt exist till now - as i know. it would be a great thing to have for cutting light reflector or some type of gears or metal for the scrap bin.
YAY!!! EDM!!! OONTZ OONTZ OONTZ!! Wait... Maybe.
Cats and boots and cats and boots 🤘
doesn't the thread not touch the innder diameter of the holes tho? could maybe use slip fit pins the size of the pre-drill diameter of the holes and align on those?
I pressed the like, but it is still cero. Too early??
AAaaa.... now it is 18 likes.... laaaaaagggg!!🤣🤣🤣
where to find those collaboration vids?
Like. done.
Comment. Done
Just helping the algorithm.