I've watched this so many times. Just noticed I didn't comment. 😮 until now.😊 You basically brought the subframe up to the end of the truck chassis/ frame. With a little over hanging for the safety bumper/ bar.💪 How can one figure out a safe "extra" extension amount? 🤔 Does that make sense? Say if you wanted to extend the length of the habitat. Could you add 2ft, 3ft, 4ft, 5ft, past the end of the chassis frame? I know there is a limit but not sure how to figure it out. 🤔 📏 📐 ⚖️
Thanks for watching it multiple times ! 🆒 To your question this is actually simple to answer : Example 1. Truck with two axles. ( my truck ) center front wheel to center rear wheel so called wheel base 3.60 Meter, allowed is 60% rear overhang over the center of the rear wheel. 60% of 3600 mm = 2160 mm ( 7feet ) Example 2. Truck with three axles, center front wheel to center axles ( between the two axles in the rear ) is the wheel base 4.20 Meter again 60% overhang = 2.52 Meter ( 8.26 feet ) So you see as bigger the wheel base the longer the habitat can be, but the agility of the truck get less and less as bigger the truck, way bigger turn radius and so on. I will post some pictures and drawings regarding this topic in the members area ! Thanks for the Question !
What an amazing job! Probably the best subframe design I have seen. Really looking forward to your video on buying / importing a truck. Can't wait to see more!
I think, as in I and Think?? I would have allowed more length for the 1/2" rod, be it 10.9 or Gr 8 yellow plated. Longer for being able to hold the end with channel locks to move the nuts. As well if the nylock part wears a jam nut can be used. In the fabrication stage, to use regular nuts . That is what I did.
I see so many over engineer theses. I respect the strength. Yet getting a design that is more tuned to right size is the goal. Some folks use heavy angle iron, to reduce weight. And to lower the height a bit inside the frame rails. The habitat floor frame, could be the cross members, not additional cross members, as a separate frame. You did a good job, I just think this could be done simpler.
I appreciate your thoughts. This is exactly one reason why I document the whole build, so people can see how I did it and they twist it a bit to they're liking and go for it. I don't say this is the right and only way to do it, this is the way I did it ! Regarding the cross members I call them arms and I installed them to support the habitat and hang the storage boxes off them , my Habitat bottom is made of 1/8 inch 3mm brake shapes.
Excellent video, we have a truck already but are looking to build another with this exact sprung sub frame design - well explained & look forward to seeing it galvanized and fitted 😀👍
Could please explain why you have welded your crash bar to the subframe and bolted it to the chassis below. How can the subframe and chassis move independently when they are solidly joined at the rear? Am I missing something?
Yes the rear point is the fixed point everything else can move. That way we don't transfer twisting force in to the habitat and it stays safe. There are many different frames available I choose the rail on rail frame with fixed point in the back, you also can build this one with fix point at the front or use a torsion free frame for more off road capability. You need to think ahead of time what frame type is suitable for your truck use. We don't need a subframe for extreme off roading, for us is it good enough if we can go on logging roads or here and there over small obstacles. Cheers
Hey Oscar, Great job on the sub frame, very informative. Did you follow the mercedes specifications ? I'm currently planning my build but specs says can't used rolled section not sure if i'm on the right track as i ws going to build something similar. cheers Poul
@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF Thanks for the reply, I was reading the mercedes atego body mount directives and it says for longitudinal members to use u section not rolled section, im not really sure
Your subframe look substantial and well built, although heavy. Did you look at building a 4 point torsion-free subframe with rockers so that you could build a lightweight aluminum square tube subframe or a lighter weight steel subframe? On my Mercedes build I will be using a torsion free rocker style subframe for a couple reasons: I never want to get to a point off grid where if I had gone with the rail on rail spring subframe the terrain is going to cause the frame to twist/flex and have to turn back or risk damage. The other reason is after spending thousands of hours building out the habitat (camper) and lots of money have it get destroyed by a trail or terrain the is too much for the subframe and causes delamination of the composites, fracturing of wall, or leaking because of damage I cannot see within the walls or roof of the habitat. For me torsion free is added insurance against any risk of damaging my huge investment in time, sweat equity, and money as I am planning this for full time living.
Thank you ! Yes I have looked at all sort of subframe solutions before I decided to build this way. To keep the truck as low as possible is this frame the best solution. We are planning to travel with this truck and go off paved roads from time to time, maybe over a sand dune but we have no intentions to put men and machine to extreme tests. Thank you for commenting and Happy New Year !
long springs www.federnshop.com/en/products/compression_springs/d-384.html short springs www.federnshop.com/en/products/compression_springs/d-382.html Those are the ones I used on my project they maybe don't fit your needs.
Oscar, hallo! Please tell me, whu you not choise "4 point subframe torsion free" ? I thinj it will bi less weight than "classic subframe". You subframe is awsom, but i am just wundering Thank you
I was answering the question one video later if you wanna check it out. But in general is it important that I can fabricate the frame to 100% by my self and I don't like the tall build up of a torsion free frame.
@@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF Thank you, Osсar! I will definitely watch this video. In my factory, I can make both types of subframe. And I think which one is better. Which to choose.
It looks good what you are doing !!!!! As I am in about the same stadium as you are I'm very interested in what you're doing. I see that you made some extra arms (sidewards) to support the box later. My plan is to build the floor of the box with 7 hood-profiles. These are then welded to the the frame. It is about the same way of box as Rolling Home from Germany builded his one. In this way I think the box is self carrying. But maybe I also will make some extra arms on the corners. Greetings from NL , Frans
Thank you ! I have started building the bones of my habitat and currently I am waiting for the floor trusses from the metal bending shop, which are c shaped as well. But I am not going to weld the box on to the subframe, so I can disassemble the habitat if ever needed. Thank you for your comments and good luck with your build ! Happy New Year !
![How To Make Your Own DIY Truck Frame | #TTDmaxC10 [EP5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S_FMp5tO0EE/mqdefault.jpg)
I've watched this so many times. Just noticed I didn't comment. 😮 until now.😊
You basically brought the subframe up to the end of the truck chassis/ frame. With a little over hanging for the safety bumper/ bar.💪
How can one figure out a safe "extra" extension amount? 🤔
Does that make sense? Say if you wanted to extend the length of the habitat. Could you add 2ft, 3ft, 4ft, 5ft, past the end of the chassis frame?
I know there is a limit but not sure how to figure it out. 🤔 📏 📐 ⚖️
Thanks for watching it multiple times ! 🆒 To your question this is actually simple to answer :
Example 1. Truck with two axles. ( my truck ) center front wheel to center rear wheel so called wheel base 3.60 Meter, allowed is 60% rear overhang over the center of the rear wheel. 60% of 3600 mm = 2160 mm ( 7feet )
Example 2. Truck with three axles, center front wheel to center axles ( between the two axles in the rear ) is the wheel base 4.20 Meter again 60% overhang = 2.52 Meter ( 8.26 feet )
So you see as bigger the wheel base the longer the habitat can be, but the agility of the truck get less and less as bigger the truck, way bigger turn radius and so on.
I will post some pictures and drawings regarding this topic in the members area ! Thanks for the Question !
@@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF thanks will check.
What an amazing job! Probably the best subframe design I have seen.
Really looking forward to your video on buying / importing a truck. Can't wait to see more!
Thank you and Happy New Year !
I think, as in I and Think?? I would have allowed more length for the 1/2" rod, be it 10.9 or Gr 8 yellow plated. Longer for being able to hold the end with channel locks to move the nuts. As well if the nylock part wears a jam nut can be used. In the fabrication stage, to use regular nuts . That is what I did.
Thank you for sharing !
I see so many over engineer theses. I respect the strength. Yet getting a design that is more tuned to right size is the goal. Some folks use heavy angle iron, to reduce weight. And to lower the height a bit inside the frame rails. The habitat floor frame, could be the cross members, not additional cross members, as a separate frame. You did a good job, I just think this could be done simpler.
I appreciate your thoughts. This is exactly one reason why I document the whole build, so people can see how I did it and they twist it a bit to they're liking and go for it. I don't say this is the right and only way to do it, this is the way I did it ! Regarding the cross members I call them arms and I installed them to support the habitat and hang the storage boxes off them , my Habitat bottom is made of 1/8 inch 3mm brake shapes.
Excellent video, we have a truck already but are looking to build another with this exact sprung sub frame design - well explained & look forward to seeing it galvanized and fitted 😀👍
Thank you ! Glad it was helpful !
Could please explain why you have welded your crash bar to the subframe and bolted it to the chassis below. How can the subframe and chassis move independently when they are solidly joined at the rear? Am I missing something?
Yes the rear point is the fixed point everything else can move. That way we don't transfer twisting force in to the habitat and it stays safe. There are many different frames available I choose the rail on rail frame with fixed point in the back, you also can build this one with fix point at the front or use a torsion free frame for more off road capability. You need to think ahead of time what frame type is suitable for your truck use. We don't need a subframe for extreme off roading, for us is it good enough if we can go on logging roads or here and there over small obstacles. Cheers
Thanks Oscar, I appreciate the explanation @@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF
Hey Oscar, Great job on the sub frame, very informative. Did you follow the mercedes specifications ? I'm currently planning my build but specs says can't used rolled section not sure if i'm on the right track as i ws going to build something similar.
cheers Poul
Thank you Poul I am not sure I get what you mean with the rolled section ? Do you mean the round pipes I used ?
@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF Thanks for the reply, I was reading the mercedes atego body mount directives and it says for longitudinal members to use u section not rolled section, im not really sure
what is the specifications on the springs?
Compression springs there is a link from the manufacturer in the description.
What paint you use to protect your steel frame from salt and rust? what method is the best to prevent rust?
No paint I have the whole subframe hot dip galvanized . Later on I painted the frame black because I don't want it to be so shiny. Cheers
@@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF Thank you for your fast answer
Good subframe, man! Good job!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Your subframe look substantial and well built, although heavy. Did you look at building a 4 point torsion-free subframe with rockers so that you could build a lightweight aluminum square tube subframe or a lighter weight steel subframe?
On my Mercedes build I will be using a torsion free rocker style subframe for a couple reasons: I never want to get to a point off grid where if I had gone with the rail on rail spring subframe the terrain is going to cause the frame to twist/flex and have to turn back or risk damage. The other reason is after spending thousands of hours building out the habitat (camper) and lots of money have it get destroyed by a trail or terrain the is too much for the subframe and causes delamination of the composites, fracturing of wall, or leaking because of damage I cannot see within the walls or roof of the habitat. For me torsion free is added insurance against any risk of damaging my huge investment in time, sweat equity, and money as I am planning this for full time living.
Thank you ! Yes I have looked at all sort of subframe solutions before I decided to build this way. To keep the truck as low as possible is this frame the best solution. We are planning to travel with this truck and go off paved roads from time to time, maybe over a sand dune but we have no intentions to put men and machine to extreme tests. Thank you for commenting and Happy New Year !
@@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF Hi, the end of your reply was lost, can you edit your reply to add the missing information? Thanks
Can you expand on the reason of why the main rails of subframe had to have a v notch or angle cut in the front, thanks.
Yes I will address this in my next video ! Thank you for your comment !
Can you tell me the specs of the springs that you used?
long springs www.federnshop.com/en/products/compression_springs/d-384.html
short springs www.federnshop.com/en/products/compression_springs/d-382.html
Those are the ones I used on my project they maybe don't fit your needs.
This is exactly what i needed to see at this stage of my build, thank you!
You are very welcome and good luck with your build !
Thanks a lot for beautifull help
Happy to help
Oscar, hallo! Please tell me, whu you not choise "4 point subframe torsion free" ?
I thinj it will bi less weight than "classic subframe".
You subframe is awsom, but i am just wundering
Thank you
I was answering the question one video later if you wanna check it out. But in general is it important that I can fabricate the frame to 100% by my self and I don't like the tall build up of a torsion free frame.
@@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF Thank you, Osсar! I will definitely watch this video. In my factory, I can make both types of subframe. And I think which one is better. Which to choose.
It looks good what you are doing !!!!! As I am in about the same stadium as you are I'm very interested in what you're doing. I see that you made some extra arms (sidewards) to support the box later. My plan is to build the floor of the box with 7 hood-profiles. These are then welded to the the frame. It is about the same way of box as Rolling Home from Germany builded his one. In this way I think the box is self carrying. But maybe I also will make some extra arms on the corners. Greetings from NL , Frans
Thank you ! I have started building the bones of my habitat and currently I am waiting for the floor trusses from the metal bending shop, which are c shaped as well. But I am not going to weld the box on to the subframe, so I can disassemble the habitat if ever needed. Thank you for your comments and good luck with your build ! Happy New Year !
@@oscaroverlander_MB1222AF Happy new year to you too. I'm not going to weld the box to the subframe. It will be bolted.