Not to be redundant, but needing to confirm. When you say 50% Garlon 3A, is that 50% of the concentrate right out of the jug? Or is it 50% when diluted with the water per the label? I am assuming these percentages are as right out of the jug, using the concentrated liquid.
One question: if I treat with this cocktail heavily in January will the treated trees make leaves in the spring or will they get sick prior to spring green up. Just curious on what to expect.
It can vary by species and by how early or late in the dormant season you act. Treated in the dormant season, most trees will not leaf out in spring. Hardier species will leaf out but struggle through the year and go dormant again before dying.
Lindsay - In all of the QDMA/NDA videos/articles I've never heard the pre-mix concentrate percentage stated. For example - a Garlon-based vine/stump killer I recently purchased at Lowe's contained Garlon 3A, but it was only 8% Garlon and instructions said to apply full strength to stumps. If I had used this in the Harper Cocktail at a 50% dilution that would be only 4% and probably not very effective. I "think" what you are mixing in the Harper Cocktail starts with a 60% Garlon concentrate which is then diluted/applied as a 30% Garlon. Could you confirm - and include those details in future discussions about habitat improvement techniques? Thanks in advance - Love the organization/channel.
FC - The Garlon 3A product I am talking about here is the liquid amine formulation, 44.4% triclopyr as an active ingredient in the jug you buy. Yes, a pre-mixed, ready-to-use stump treatment product that's only 8% triclopyr is not what you want. Thanks! -- LT
If you girdle-and-spray and/or spray a small stump with this treatment with this tree growing with a group of Persimmon trees could this treatment hurt or kill the Persimmon trees. I have several groups of Persimmons trees with a sweet gum or other trees growing 2 to 4 inches from each other, would think that the roots have to be touching each other.
Glyphosate in a 3% solution in water will work. But the blend in this video is also deadly on the stumps, if the plants are scattered enough to easily cut down all the stems. For large plants, cutting and spraying the stump can be easier than foliar application. For really big thickets and infestations, a mulcher can quickly flatten those areas, then spray glyphosate when the stumps are sprouting foliar growth again. Thanks, David!
It is effective almost any time of year. For a short time in the spring, it is ineffective on A FEW species of trees that are heavy sap producers, because the sap flushes the herbicide out of the cut. If you cut or girdle a tree, and you see sap visibly flowing from the cut, it's not a good time for that species. But for most trees, this is a year-round technique.
Methods are designed to target 2 different objectives. Hack & squirt is best on smaller dbh trees. Way more effective than running a saw in those cases... plus you don't leave a mess of debris.
What if your target species to get rid of is shag bark hickory? Can you just do a 50/50 mix of arsenal and water? I’m assuming you would see the same results since triclopyr isn’t any good at killing them.
If you remove either component of the blend, the other component remains at the same mix rate. So, if you just apply Arsenal (imazapyr), it would be 10% Arsenal and 90% water. This would be effective on hickory.
It certainly works as well for hack-and-squirt as it does for girdle-and-squirt and stump treatment. It's all the same mechanism for injecting herbicide into the tree. And, as we mentioned in the video, the advantage of this blend is that it is effective on the broadest range of tree species.
I have Garlon 4 ultra .. I was reading the label 60.45% is Triclopyr 2-[3,5,6- trichloro-2-pyridinyl) would that be an okay Herbicide to use ?? I just picked up Arsenal AC
That should work fine. The difference: Garlon 3A is 44% triclopyr, and Garlon 4 ultra is 60% triclopyr. So, if you want to do the math, you could reduce the % of Garlon in the mix by a little bit and replace it with water. Or just stick with the 50/40/10 solution. You'll just be using a little more Garlon than necessary for effective treatment.
Oxydendrum arboreum. Native to the eastern U.S. from southern Pennsylvania to north Florida and west to Illinois. Usually found in mixed hardwoods forests. Common, but has low wildlife value.
It pretty much gets mixed as you blend it and as you carry it with you in the woods. No need to let it settle, but you don't need to shake it violently either. Just slosh it around a little and get to work.
It would be nice if you can just buy a quart or 1/2 gallon of this stuff. Not everybody is in the TSI business and needs such a large amount. Not only the cost but now you have a bottle of chemicals in your garage for years. I bought a small bottle of Tordon RTU for $15 which worked great on Black Locusts after I ringed them. This sounds like a good plan but too much quantity for your typical property owner.
There may be smaller quantities available, especially if you search for active ingredients instead of these brand names mentioned in the video. Also, as we said in the video, you can economize by skipping the imazapyr and just using triclopyr, but this will be weak on a few tree species.
Sir, I know this is an old post - but did the Tordon RTU work for you in terms of preventing suckers and runners? My black locust issue has become a royal pain in the butt. Thanks and Semper Fi
@@greyfi It works great on suckers. I would ring and squirt immediately after ringing. Killed these trees fast and complete. I am still getting trees from the seed bank in the area so you might be in for a couple years of monitoring. Prior to RTU I cut a couple trees and the immediate area was a mess the next year. Much more than the seed bank. So I do think I have a proper comparison to give you a valid answer. Good luck and God bless the Marine Corps.
Some people don't feel comfortable cutting down certain trees. Maybe very large trees or those with thorns. Curling them can be a safer option. Even when you do cut down trees completely a cocktail like this will ensure no resprouting.
No, for several reasons. Cutting the tree completely down takes much more time (as you saw in the video, you can girdle-and-spray a tree in less than 15 seconds); there is much more risk involved for you in felling a tree, especially several trees in a small area; fallen trees create obstacles and slow down your work; and, many invasive and low-value trees will simply sprout from the stump and continue to be a problem if you don't kill them with herbicides. When you're trying to improve as many acres of forest as you can, using girdle-and-spray with herbicides is much faster, safer work. It effectively kills trees that need to die completely.
A 50/50 blend of water and glyphosate is effective on some tree species, but many tougher trees, especially invasive species, won't be killed. It all depends on what species you are trying to control. That's the nice thing about the blend in this video: It kills any tree you need to control.
Every time I mix this it crystallizes before the end of the day. Yes I always mix in order!
Great content and easy to understand presentation as always. Love the organization and videos y’all do. Thanks again!
Thanks for the kind words! Appreciate your support of NDA.
Not to be redundant, but needing to confirm.
When you say 50% Garlon 3A, is that 50% of the concentrate right out of the jug? Or is it 50% when diluted with the water per the label?
I am assuming these percentages are as right out of the jug, using the concentrated liquid.
Will just the garlon 3A kill sweet gums for good? That is my biggest problem on the property.
What’s your thoughts on straight glysophate? Maybe a hint of water to make it spray easier. A lot of foresters around here are using it.
I use probably a pint of gly a pint of 24d and a gallon of water to treat trees I want dead
Do you pour the ingredients, per this order, directly into the squirt bottle? Do you shake to mix?
How does this work on walnut tress?
Shouldn't you apply chemicals below any branches or cut off the branches below the girdle?
What about using tordon rtu? Is that weak on some trees?
why not just use glyphosate? I've found it very affective on everything
One question: if I treat with this cocktail heavily in January will the treated trees make leaves in the spring or will they get sick prior to spring green up. Just curious on what to expect.
It can vary by species and by how early or late in the dormant season you act. Treated in the dormant season, most trees will not leaf out in spring. Hardier species will leaf out but struggle through the year and go dormant again before dying.
Lindsay - In all of the QDMA/NDA videos/articles I've never heard the pre-mix concentrate percentage stated. For example - a Garlon-based vine/stump killer I recently purchased at Lowe's contained Garlon 3A, but it was only 8% Garlon and instructions said to apply full strength to stumps. If I had used this in the Harper Cocktail at a 50% dilution that would be only 4% and probably not very effective. I "think" what you are mixing in the Harper Cocktail starts with a 60% Garlon concentrate which is then diluted/applied as a 30% Garlon. Could you confirm - and include those details in future discussions about habitat improvement techniques?
Thanks in advance - Love the organization/channel.
FC - The Garlon 3A product I am talking about here is the liquid amine formulation, 44.4% triclopyr as an active ingredient in the jug you buy. Yes, a pre-mixed, ready-to-use stump treatment product that's only 8% triclopyr is not what you want. Thanks!
-- LT
@@DeerAssociation Thanks Lindsay
Will this mixture work in the winter months when the trees and other woody vegetation is in a dormant state?
Yes it will. In fact, winter is the ideal time to do this.
? Does that include shrubs, will it work on them in winter
If you girdle-and-spray and/or spray a small stump with this treatment with this tree growing with a group of Persimmon trees could this treatment hurt or kill the Persimmon trees. I have several groups of Persimmons trees with a sweet gum or other trees growing 2 to 4 inches from each other, would think that the roots have to be touching each other.
How about honeysuckle? Can I use the 50-50 method of triclophr and water on the honeysuckle?
Bush honeysuckle? Yes. Japanese honeysuckle can just be sprayed with glyphosate.
Will this mixture kill sweet gum sapling sizes about 4 feet height? Thanks
Yes. Very effectively.
Thank you
Lindsey what would be a good foliar application for privet?
Glyphosate in a 3% solution in water will work. But the blend in this video is also deadly on the stumps, if the plants are scattered enough to easily cut down all the stems. For large plants, cutting and spraying the stump can be easier than foliar application. For really big thickets and infestations, a mulcher can quickly flatten those areas, then spray glyphosate when the stumps are sprouting foliar growth again. Thanks, David!
Is there a preferred time of year to conduct TSI via this method?
It is effective almost any time of year. For a short time in the spring, it is ineffective on A FEW species of trees that are heavy sap producers, because the sap flushes the herbicide out of the cut. If you cut or girdle a tree, and you see sap visibly flowing from the cut, it's not a good time for that species. But for most trees, this is a year-round technique.
@@DeerAssociation Sounds great. Thank you for the answer.
I used about 8oz of glyphosate to kill my trees off mixed with water in the fall when the sap is falling.. Killed them all dead..
Will hack and squirt be just as effective as lugging a heavy chainsaw around?
Methods are designed to target 2 different objectives. Hack & squirt is best on smaller dbh trees. Way more effective than running a saw in those cases... plus you don't leave a mess of debris.
Would this mix work on cedars also?
I don't believe you need any herbicide for Eastern Red Cedar (actually a Juniper) if you cut below the lowest branch.
What if your target species to get rid of is shag bark hickory? Can you just do a 50/50 mix of arsenal and water? I’m assuming you would see the same results since triclopyr isn’t any good at killing them.
If you remove either component of the blend, the other component remains at the same mix rate. So, if you just apply Arsenal (imazapyr), it would be 10% Arsenal and 90% water. This would be effective on hickory.
Is that also the best mix for hack and squirt?
It certainly works as well for hack-and-squirt as it does for girdle-and-squirt and stump treatment. It's all the same mechanism for injecting herbicide into the tree. And, as we mentioned in the video, the advantage of this blend is that it is effective on the broadest range of tree species.
I have Garlon 4 ultra .. I was reading the label 60.45% is Triclopyr 2-[3,5,6- trichloro-2-pyridinyl) would that be an okay Herbicide to use ?? I just picked up Arsenal AC
That should work fine. The difference: Garlon 3A is 44% triclopyr, and Garlon 4 ultra is 60% triclopyr. So, if you want to do the math, you could reduce the % of Garlon in the mix by a little bit and replace it with water. Or just stick with the 50/40/10 solution. You'll just be using a little more Garlon than necessary for effective treatment.
Any recommendations for killing Popcorn trees ? Thanks.
This blend works very well on Chinese tallow trees (a.k.a. popcorn trees). We have them where I hunt. -Lindsay
What is a sour wood tree??
Oxydendrum arboreum. Native to the eastern U.S. from southern Pennsylvania to north Florida and west to Illinois. Usually found in mixed hardwoods forests. Common, but has low wildlife value.
Do you mix the solution or let it settle?
It pretty much gets mixed as you blend it and as you carry it with you in the woods. No need to let it settle, but you don't need to shake it violently either. Just slosh it around a little and get to work.
It would be nice if you can just buy a quart or 1/2 gallon of this stuff. Not everybody is in the TSI business and needs such a large amount. Not only the cost but now you have a bottle of chemicals in your garage for years. I bought a small bottle of Tordon RTU for $15 which worked great on Black Locusts after I ringed them. This sounds like a good plan but too much quantity for your typical property owner.
There may be smaller quantities available, especially if you search for active ingredients instead of these brand names mentioned in the video. Also, as we said in the video, you can economize by skipping the imazapyr and just using triclopyr, but this will be weak on a few tree species.
You could go with Polaris and Remedy, and then buy in smaller less costly jugs.
@@DeerAssociationso will the mixture still work fine if I substitute Arsenal AC for Imazapyr 4 SL Alligare?
Sir, I know this is an old post - but did the Tordon RTU work for you in terms of preventing suckers and runners? My black locust issue has become a royal pain in the butt. Thanks and Semper Fi
@@greyfi It works great on suckers. I would ring and squirt immediately after ringing. Killed these trees fast and complete. I am still getting trees from the seed bank in the area so you might be in for a couple years of monitoring. Prior to RTU I cut a couple trees and the immediate area was a mess the next year. Much more than the seed bank. So I do think I have a proper comparison to give you a valid answer. Good luck and God bless the Marine Corps.
This cocktail better work! I’ve spent a lot of hours spraying it into hundreds of gum and elm over the past couple weeks. Lol
Trust us, they're dead. Keep us posted!
How did it go?
Wouldn't it just be better to cut the trees down, especially with the price being so high to mix it?
Some people don't feel comfortable cutting down certain trees. Maybe very large trees or those with thorns. Curling them can be a safer option. Even when you do cut down trees completely a cocktail like this will ensure no resprouting.
No, for several reasons. Cutting the tree completely down takes much more time (as you saw in the video, you can girdle-and-spray a tree in less than 15 seconds); there is much more risk involved for you in felling a tree, especially several trees in a small area; fallen trees create obstacles and slow down your work; and, many invasive and low-value trees will simply sprout from the stump and continue to be a problem if you don't kill them with herbicides. When you're trying to improve as many acres of forest as you can, using girdle-and-spray with herbicides is much faster, safer work. It effectively kills trees that need to die completely.
What’s your thoughts on straight glysophate? Maybe a hint of water to make it spray easier. A lot of foresters around here are using it.
A 50/50 blend of water and glyphosate is effective on some tree species, but many tougher trees, especially invasive species, won't be killed. It all depends on what species you are trying to control. That's the nice thing about the blend in this video: It kills any tree you need to control.
@@DeerAssociation thanks for replying.
@@DeerAssociationwhat difference would it make if arsenal ac is replaced with Alligare amazapyr 4 sl in this 50/40/10 mixture?
Makes no difference, that's what I use. Alligare Imazapyr is simply a generic knock off of Arsenal. @@ttawevino9964