Making a DIY tubular glass LED filament lamp.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
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I had some LED filaments left over from my big open filament lamp project, so I spontaneously decided to make a tubular LED filament lamp after discovering that test-tubes fit nicely into salvaged lamp bases.
Initially I was tempted to cheat with the absolute minimum number of components by using a single diode instead of a bridge rectifier, using a single current limiting resistor and omitting the capacitors discharge resistor, but then I decided to do it with a full circuit. This was a good approach because the circuitry is visible inside the glass tube and looks good.
This is better than watching regular TV these days!
I don't even have cable, TH-cam has taken over :^)
i watch clive on my phone and i have ChilledCow on my smart tv
I binned my tv licence and sky, now I can afford to buy components off ebay to play with!
Agree!
4 years later - still true…
If your trade fails Clive, you can always be a hypnotist or read bed-time stories.
This is so relaxing to watch.
+Pawel Korzeniewski I was just thinking the same thing. I have this playing in the house, while i walk around, cleaning.. and it's pleasant to listen to.
just listening is soothing
As somebody else said, bigclive is the bob ross of electronics.
Finally I learned that hand soldering technique, but nobody can be better then the master!..
I just wish my hands were as steady as yours. Excellent video.
+John Wilde you are joking right? I almost went mad from all the quivering.
My hand shakes as if I'm soldering on a WW2 era tank driving through rubbles. I bet yours are a bit better!
Personally I also like the electronics exposed as in your video instead of behind a white cap. From any reasonable distance, the electronics would look pretty much like the stem inside a tungsten lamp, where as the white cap clearly sticks out even a far distance off from the light.
One suggestion I have for the epoxy is to solder only one connection at the base before applying the epoxy. This leaves an air gap on the other terminal, which can be soldered after the epoxy has set.
Nice solution, another would be to heat the tube (boiling water or even hot water from tap) and then let it cool :)
Watching you solder that bridge brings back my overriding thought from electronic engineering in college many years ago: "I need three hands" then later, when messing around with SMT stuff "I need four hands"
i have to say watching your videos over the passed few months has gotten me into electronics. i have always been into the taking things to bits part. so its a good fit. plus gives me something to do during the long cold canadian winters
Listening to you pull your iron out sounds like a Knight drawing his sword. LOL
+Nuckelhedd Jones That must have been my old Antex iron in its spring style holder. It does make a sort of Shwingggg noise when I pull it out.
+Nuckelhedd Jones 6:25 for those who wonder :D
Only at NIGHT...
that IS clive's weapon of choice..
This is like watching the Bob Ross of electronics :D Very cool.
+statikreg "Such a happy little filament" :)
statikreg Expecting a happy indident any moment, where an accidental hand motion turns it into a sparkling shining star rain...
Nice! I appreciate a still camera, that focuses on a great work space! Love that you work, and teach at a tempo without speaking over anyone's head; nor patronizing the viewers. Awesome-much more please!
Just recently discovered your channel and just randomly watching your vids in no particular order but I love these little practical projects !
Hi Bigclive
I loved watching you make this lamp, Not knowing much about electronics you made it look so easy. Me i wish some one had shown me the joys of electronics when i was at school. But alas I"m 56 now and missed out. You would make a great teacher. And in another time i would have loved to be your apprentice. Thank you
+Stephen Tebbutt You're not too old to grab a soldering iron, buy some stuff and start playing. 56 is still young. You've plenty of time to master electronic dabbling yet.
I don't think I have ever commented but this time I just HAVE to. Clever project, Clever design, Clever layout and build. VERY classy and yet, from a distance, looks "Retro" like a true, old time AC filament light bulb, Thanks for all the videos, I am hooked, M Austin, Ohio, USA.
+m AUSTIN I'm still using this daily as one of the many decorative lamps that light my hall.
Some serious soldering ninja technique around 9:45 there :-)
Absolutely love watching you work. Nothing nicer than when I'm at my work bench and every time I lay down my solder iron flicking on to one of your videos. Thoroughly enjoyed this project, I might have to try making one of these myself :)
Your soldering skills never fail to have me in awe. If I soldered something and then handled it I can be sure it would fall to bits, let alone doing it one handed and on camera!
Dude, you got some boss tier soldering skills.
soldering that, while holding it together, in shot, having to keep in mind it's recorded, kudos to your skill!
Building a circuit in 3D like this is so much more elegant and interesting than using a PCB. Sure, it's infeasible for most of the circuits we see here, but the way it all just symmetrically fits together for this circuit is very satisfying.
Hi Clive, After a bit of faffing about I found a good way to glue in the glass tube without pressure differential pushing the glue out of the base. When assembling the power connection into the 'BC' lamp base, solder only ONE of the base pads, then glue in the glass tube, the internal air pressure is relieved via the gap around the resistor leg in the 2nd solder pad hole. Once the glue has completely set then solder the 2nd pad as the final step. Might not be the optimum solution but it worked well for me :-) Keep having fun Sir! :-)
Glad to see that I'm not the only one who uses the heat and fling desoldering method.
How fascinating! I will have to try this, assuming I can find some filament LEDs around here somewhere. Love this channel -- keep up the good work!
+LMacNeill You can buy the LED filaments on ebay if you search for LED filaments and choose shipping and price lowest first and "buy it now".
+bigclivedotcom Ok -- thanks! Much appreciated.
Hi Clive. Love this lamp! And Just wanted to say, i have been watching your videos for about 3 months and i love the level detail you go into, and the way you explain things makes it so easy to follow. I've learned so much from watching your videos, and just wanted to give you big cheer along. And say keep up the awesome videos mate. They are brilliant! :D
Very nice project. My experience with bending LED leads is that you can bend preety freely as long as LEDs remain cold. They are mostly encapsulated into a kind of this and that plastic type housing, which has low melting temperature, significant mass and long cooling time, so it may seem that LED is cold after soldering, while it is still not enough. Bending leads during this period will very likely lead to LED internal damage. I always wait until it is cold on touch and not even warm, what could happen even after one minute or even few. All LEDs I've soldered following this protocol remained healthy and functional. 🙂🍹
This is great. Sort of a mad steampunk scientist look. You, sir, are tempting me to learn to solder.
This is just a beautiful build, and I second all the people who say this was relaxing and a joy to watch. I felt throughout the whole video that nag to build one of my own. Your videos are spectacular!
Very enjoyable. This is ART! and Electronics.
If I built one I would go crazy with colored wires and a bit of gold plating. But that's me.
Thank you,
pierre
It's now 2:30 AM on Christmas Day, 2017, and I'm just sitting here watching old Bigclive soldering videos. Loving the start of this Christmas so far. ^^
I know you'll never see this, but Merry Christmas Clive, and thanks for making these videos.
+Zazaaji Hope you have a good Christmas too.
I have some questions:
1. What is the wattage & can it be done to get 150W?
2. No heatsink needed for those 4 LEDs?
3. What are those cap & diode values?
4. What glue did you used?
5. Circuit & component are same for 120VAC and 220VAC?
Thank you for taking your time to show us on this video.
Greetings from N.M. !
Dear Mr. BigClive, I really appreciate that you show the circuit diagrams in you vids.
Thank you.
pierre
i have been enjoying your videos for some time now.
i do enjoy the ability to see components.
it has a art quality to it with out being frankenstineish
Clive! You rock! You're accent rocks! Your electrical skills rock! Keep it up man!
Been awhile since this one was published, but I do enjoy looking back on some of the better videos. It sort of hit me, when watching, how would it work to use, say one of those hat type LED's at the top to bridge the two uprights, and perhaps one at each splice of the uprights as well, sort of like pearls on a string of light.
0:48 thought the video might take a turn for the worst.
+Mike coincidentally worst means sausage in dutch.
And German I believe, but maybe it's spelt differently.
+Reptilian Capriccioso Wurst in German
keep in mind W is V in German
I thought "Aha, sure, a lamp..." :D
That's wrong. I am german - W is W in German
An alternative is to use two diodes and two capacitors to make two half wave rectifiers. One would make a positive voltage and the other a negative. If the capacitors are sized so the voltage sags quite seriously when the diode is not conducting, the efficiency can be made better than the simple case. You get more drop on the resistors so that the accuracy of the current setting is a bit better.
Nice to see you're using an Antex iron. Still got my original CCN low-leakage (decades old) and it still works just fine.
As always this was a very enjoyable video. I'watched tons of your tear-down ( take to bits ) videos, and didn't know you also made MacGyver videos! I really hope to see more of these. Electricity is a little daunting for me, but your tiny circuit design was so elegant, I'm glad you didn't hide it into the base of the tube. Thanks so much for these videos.
Today i ordered 5 of these LED filament lamps, 1 watt flame type, 2200K. They look so good and give a very nice light !
These are my new favourite thing to build. I've built two single filament ones so far and I'm building my first 4 filament one. I'm finding it hard to source bayonet bases though - I've had to resort to butchering old CFL bulbs and Poundland LED bulbs.
Anyway, cheers for the idea!
Yeah, I butchered quite a few CFL lamps for their bases in the past. See my recent toadstool video for a neat alternative for a BC base.
Just made my first light using an "Elliman's Embroctation" bottle I found in a former dump. It glows very pleasantly, just bright enough without flicker. There's hardly any heat coming off it.
An improvement I might want to make the support a little firmer as it jiggles about when moved.
Looking forward to making more :D
I have no idea what's going on but I think this stuff is fascinating.
Love this! I've ordered some filaments on the slow boat from China and I've found some old bottles which fit a bayonet mount, and I'm looking at the rest of the components to order. I'll keep you informed on progress - looking forwards to this one!
I think I prefer this construction vid to the destruction vids! Great stuff. I think that would look nice housed inside a chunky glass jar with a cable and fitting through the brass screw-on lid hung from a ceiling. Mmmm, thinks. :)
I can only agree with the other comments. So relaxing to watch and listen. Electronics in the style of Barry White.
Anyway - I started using your "Handheld technic " where soldering. It takes a little getting used to but it worth the effort.
Great video as usual.
I just ordered some filament LEDs. Hope they get here soon!
***** Ayyy lol
Love the idea of the LEDs being brilliant.
Thanks
Cool. I like this idea. It occurred to me that instead of using test tubes, one could use other laboratory glass ware such as round-bottomed flasks. I saw some three neck round-bottomed flasks which, I think, could look very good.
Your sky wiring is beautiful.
you are very smart makes me a computer nerd want to learn about your field of work as a hobby
Man, I'm so glad I don't live on IoM or I'd probably just hang out with you all the time Clive. I don't comment much, but your vids on the Filament LEDs have helped me to sort of understand why all my Amazon S14 outdoor 2W filament lamps on patio are crap! I finally craked open the last several failures and found nothing but a 1K resistor in series with the two 1 W filament LEDs. These LEDs are lucky to make it 1000 hours let alone claims of 15000 hours coming from China. What to do. What to do? This vid was inspiring. Perhaps I just need to sort out a Dubai lamp and make some bulbs that will outlast me! I'm trying to sort out if all filament LEDs are created equal? I'm guessing not. Anyway, huge thanks to you.
Another way to deal with trapped air in the test tube when inserting into the base would be to heat the tube and the air inside just prior to inserting it. As the air cooled, it would create a partial vacuum and pull the tube into the bonding goop in the base. Just a thought.
The electronics at the back end remind me a bit of the innards of a valve ("vacuum tube for our US viewers') which really enhances the retro look of these light bulbs.
You have amazing soldering skills!
16:29 Bit of a gooseflesh when you bent the filament :D
I listen to his videos on the background as asmr
Outstanding on many levels! Well done.
Regarding your +pressure in the tube, just wet one of the leads on the bottom, the air should come sputtering out - bonus: the heat will add expand the air & create more pressure so when the solder cools you get slight negative pressure. You may need to accelerate the solder cooling lest it gets sucked back inside (a wet finger)
Incredibly awesome! Looks so nice, well done!
One way to avoid the glass to pop out would be to leave one of the resistors unsoldered to the light bulb base, so the air can go out, and then solder it once it is glued .
26:00 - Instead of using sleeving as a snorkel, "fill" the test tube with hot air from the soldering station, then let the resin get pushed into the tube as temperatures and pressures settle.
0:48 looks like clive is finally crazy enough to start drawing stuff like that
very informative sir,,,,thank you,,,,,greetings from india,,,,,,,u r a scientist,,,,,,,,,
That really is a beautiful little circuit :)
Another masterpiece. Thank you for making this video.
Lovely lamp ya made there!
I'm 100% sure I love this!
VERY NICE Clive... Now plug it in where the sun don't shine 😂😂🤣
Love the DIY and tutorial vids! Keep up the awesome work! :)
At 21:21 you used some interesting connectors. What are they called and where can I find them?
Brent Austin - They are *wago* connectors... specifically the 'lever nuts'...
More info @ www.wago.us/products/terminal-blocks-and-connectors/overview/
Their whole system is by far the best method for temporary and permanent connections !!
Thank you very much for making this video! You have inspired me to make my own!
Fantastic soldering skills! Now to go watch your soldering tutorials...
Look at his soldering skills :)
Heat the bulb/glass before you glue it in and let the gas inside cool to a smaller volume while the glue sets. Watch out with the glue, some of them become conductive with age. I have to scrape lots of it off electronics to fix things all of the time. It tends to go brown in colour when this happens.
That's a really nice project!
like I said I try to watch all of your videos Clive and I still find them I have not! can't build this in the USA because of the base and voltage but I know exactly what I would use it for. standing up out of my tardis lamp would be great! nicely done! gives me a idea. SCARY IF YOU KNOW ME SND MY ELECTRIC SKILLS. just enough to be really dangerous! LOL
I like it. Looks like the old large filiment clear edison bulbs.
When I "freeform" a circuit, I always try to hold the connections together by bending and crimping them with pliers, then soldering to ensure a good electrical connection.
In projects like this I do not cut the ends off of the resistors, diodes, etc. Some I just criss/cross leaving the ends sticking out. Others I spin around a nail and give that coil look. If there is room I use to make electronic art.
very cool, thanks Big Clive!!!
Why don't you complete remove the solder from one of the contacts? That tiny hole should be enough for the excess air to exit. You can then re-solder it. :-)
It might be that the extra pressure helps better conduct heat to the glass better. and we all know heat is the enemy of LEDs.
Martin Paoloni The resin would have to come out the hole first.
I'm thinking that he could have tried heating the test tube first and as it cooled, it would have sucked the resin / hot melt glue that he was using up into the test tube. It would be a balancing act though since if you heat it too much, then it's going to suck a lot more of the material in there as it cools.
WOW, I was wondering when you would use a third-hand. I also would recommend a fan blowing from behind you so you do not poison yourself by sniffing the Lead Solder.
to stop it trying to pop out of the resin, could you warm it up a bit first (not sure how much!) so that as it cools to room temp it will reduce the pressure inside
Excellent and elegant also. Thank you
This kind of gave me an idea for my own light bulbs. I have yet to find an led filament with the right brightness that uses neodymium glass. Like GE's Reveal bulbs. They have them, but low lumens. Though of taking their regular incandescent Reveal bulbs and doing something like this to them to the brightness I want.
You could let the air out by not soldering the wires into the base until after inserting the test tube into the glueOn another matter, why do you not twist your component leads together? I was taught that a good electrical connection is based on a good mechanical connection.
been lately watching ur videos and i'm amazed what you can do with few electronic components. awesome! keep it up please! :)
Hey Clive, recently found your videos. Your tear downs bring back some nostalgia from destroying things as a kid and looking at circuit boards with out any knowledge about them. They always looked like mini cities to me. Great videos.
Anyways, you have got me very curious about starting to learn a bit about electronics. I have no knowledge of it. Any tips of where I could start on my own? Thanks!
It's worth buying some simple kits on eBay from China (very cheap so no worries about trashing them) and just start playing with stuff. It'll all just slot into place naturally, especially when you have Google at your fingertips to answer any questions that may arise.
I always twist the diode leads to make a Graetz bridge - no problem attaching stuff to them :)
+68Stan This one was a Pollak bridge so it held together better.
bigclivedotcom OK, that explains everything. I take it then that for ionisers you prefer the tower bridge.
I'm pleased to hear that Craig Ferguson landed a new gig !
Perhaps the power factor comes out wrong as you are using a full bridge (diodes) but the leds are also diodes which will cause the current to be drawn asymmetrically during the lower voltage of the AC cycle?
It's a shame these things only seem to exist in warm white, and require such an insanely high supply voltage to function. They would be quite interesting to play around with for automotive accent lighting applications...
@19:54 solder iron sounded like a sword :)
I note you rely on the solder for your mechanical joint. I was always told that solder was only the electrical connection and you also needed a mechanical joint aswell.
maybe it depends on the use?
i've had lots of solder joints break from stress but I have also used solder to construct structural things (built a bridge for model trains out of brass strips soldered together) and that held up very well.
it may also depend of its hard or soft solder
nice work buddy
Looks cool to me. Just wondering, could you have added, say one of those bright blue LED's between the two filaments to add a bit of ghostly glow to the light? Perhaps a red one for that lonely date night, or green for the Frankenbulb?
Capacitor is going to dry out pretty quickly. Would be nice if you would insulate the connections between filaments as well.
Hi bro i know you finished this but an idea popped into my head to glue the tube into the fitting by heating the tube and air in the tube and then push it down into the glued fitting then wrap the tube in one of those ice gel packs to cool the tube thus cooling the air inside the tube and some of the glue should be pulled into the tube.
Please, can someone tell me how the 340volts value at time stamp 3.29 is derived? My confusion is that there is 240volts AC going into the bridge rectifier so I was thinking that there would be something like 240volts DC coming out.
The 240V is an RMS (Root Mean Square) average value. The peak voltage of the sinewave is 1.41 times that at around 340V and that is what the capacitor charges to.
Thank you!
I love watching your video's...