Hey, when you are checking the endplay on the crank, their is a little cylinder at the top of the dial indicator, that you can use to retract it while you are banging the crank forward, they are pretty delicate inside, and don't like to get hammered on. Not trying to be mr know it all, I just figured with how nice you are to your torque wrench, you would want to be at least as nice to your dial indicator, which is a lot more delicate inside. Thanks for the vids.
It looks as though there are two holes in the piston where the oil control ring rides. Is that to allow evacuation of oil on the downstroke? Some other purpose?
The cam is usually in great shape. Just inspect it. The spot where the fuel pump rides is usually the high wear spot. Springs just need inspected for cracks and height. Valves can be used if they are in good shape. New ones are fairly cheap. I always replace the valve guides. They almost always are worn. That sucks oil and reduces compression when the valves are sloppy. Bearings are a must most times. Have the crank checked and polished or ground. Plasigauge every bearing.
Isn't the squirt hole the Dodge straight 6 flathead oriented towards the cam to cover the cam with oil ...how come the Jeep motor is opposite? How does the cam get oiled?
They wear oval and putting an oval piston in a round hole is a bad deal. Pistons are not cheap but not really that expensive. If you bore the cylinders, I always use ne pistons and rings. Compression will be like factory new and lots of power. Hone and rering jobs always use oil, smoke alot and have less power.
@hummernutsfl cheers mate, so basically best to just get new internals all around or do you think you can get away with using original valves, springs, rods, lifters, cam and crank? I'd assume the cam and crank would be good so long as they get polished and measured for new bearings yeah?
Lew...did you need to check the ring gap on those too rings or were they already manufactured for the bore size and are a straight fit on with no ring gap grinding required?
Hi Lew, do you lubricate any of the fastener threads and bolt heads in the engine, or do you assemble and torque them clean and dry? I'm thinking specifically of the rod cap bolts, gudgeon pin bolt, main cap bolts, and head studs/nuts. I haven't been able to find a discussion on the topic. The manual doesn't mention it (to my knowledge) so I would interpret that to mean that the torque values given by the manual are for clean and dry threads. May I ask your thoughts on this?
Superbe vidéo grand merci !
Estou seguindo vocês do Brasil. Vocês são ótimos. Adoro acompanhar vocês. Deu abençoe vocês.
Thank you very much. I appreciate it!
Hey, when you are checking the endplay on the crank, their is a little cylinder at the top of the dial indicator, that you can use to retract it while you are banging the crank forward, they are pretty delicate inside, and don't like to get hammered on. Not trying to be mr know it all, I just figured with how nice you are to your torque wrench, you would want to be at least as nice to your dial indicator, which is a lot more delicate inside. Thanks for the vids.
Good info! Always learning!
It looks as though there are two holes in the piston where the oil control ring rides. Is that to allow evacuation of oil on the downstroke? Some other purpose?
The cam is usually in great shape. Just inspect it. The spot where the fuel pump rides is usually the high wear spot. Springs just need inspected for cracks and height. Valves can be used if they are in good shape. New ones are fairly cheap. I always replace the valve guides. They almost always are worn. That sucks oil and reduces compression when the valves are sloppy. Bearings are a must most times. Have the crank checked and polished or ground. Plasigauge every bearing.
Isn't the squirt hole the Dodge straight 6 flathead oriented towards the cam to cover the cam with oil ...how come the Jeep motor is opposite? How does the cam get oiled?
Oh and lifters are usually in great shape. Just check for wear.
Where are you sourcing your parts?
Quick question Lew...any particular reason why you didn't reuse the original pistons other than boring out to a bigger size?
They wear oval and putting an oval piston in a round hole is a bad deal. Pistons are not cheap but not really that expensive. If you bore the cylinders, I always use ne pistons and rings. Compression will be like factory new and lots of power. Hone and rering jobs always use oil, smoke alot and have less power.
@hummernutsfl cheers mate, so basically best to just get new internals all around or do you think you can get away with using original valves, springs, rods, lifters, cam and crank? I'd assume the cam and crank would be good so long as they get polished and measured for new bearings yeah?
Lew...did you need to check the ring gap on those too rings or were they already manufactured for the bore size and are a straight fit on with no ring gap grinding required?
I have not checked gap yet. That will be in the next video when i put them in the cylinders.
One should always dry fit and test the end gap.
Hi Lew, do you lubricate any of the fastener threads and bolt heads in the engine, or do you assemble and torque them clean and dry? I'm thinking specifically of the rod cap bolts, gudgeon pin bolt, main cap bolts, and head studs/nuts. I haven't been able to find a discussion on the topic. The manual doesn't mention it (to my knowledge) so I would interpret that to mean that the torque values given by the manual are for clean and dry threads. May I ask your thoughts on this?
One should always use ARP thread lube for accurate bolt torque.
My mentor said to clean the bolts spotless, lube them with oil, then wipe them clean. The oil hiding in the pores is all that is needed.
What is the Crankshaft Pulley nut torque?
I don't remember off the top of my head but it is do e with a 1/2 drive torque wrench. Probably 100ft# or more.
👍 👍 👍!!!
How do you get a torque wrench on the wrist pin bolts?
Use a crow's foot wrench and do the math as the wrench manual shows.