I look like you are enjoying your retirement which is fantastic. About making the same mistakes over and not learning, seem to be a human trait. Welcome to the club.
Most of the cork roadbed I've ever encountered, you have to separate it from each other and turn one side around and put them together so that you get a tapered side on each side of the roadbed. No one had ever taught you how to use it properly. Cheers from eastern TN
I would use spikes/ nails to hold the rails in place. Knowing that all is temporary with the setup. They have holes in the rails to go through. And I have only used connecting clips for the rails connecting. Thumbs up 👍 keep it coming!😊
@@Kens265 they are only about 1/2” long. I would push them in to the road bed with a needle nose pliers to hold them then push all the way down with the tip of the pliers.
Hi Ken, I Love the way the layout is taking shape. Keep up the great work you're doing. In watching your videos I noticed you haven't mentioned anything in both layouts about adding a busline to maintain a consistent flow of electricity throughout the layout. For me personally I would include feederlines every 3'-6' too keep the voltage the same.
Good morning Ken, nice lay out. Not sure how much cork road base you will use? If you didn't know that line down the center of the cork is a cut line, it is cut on an angle. When you bend and break the halves, you end up with a bevel on one edge, put the two flat edges together and you have a roadbed with sloped sides.
Just FYI - split the cork roadbed apart and put the pieces back with the tapered side out - looks more like you easy track roadbed then. For next time anyway. Keep up the interesting videos.
For My Ho I Ran Lifelike Power Loc track And I Painted The Track Grey and Now I See You’re Goin From Grey To Black wow Quite Different.Different strokes Different Folks.
I run a different gauge, but I also solder all track connections.It's really helpful on the elevated track. In one area I expect to make changes, I did not use connecting pins, I only soldered the track. Will make it very easy to modify. I also use a volt/ohm meter, and consistently check for continuity as I work. Looking great!
Bachmann makes two variations of EZ track one is Black Road bed with steel alloy rails the other is Gray Road bed with nickel silver rails both work fine but the nickel silver conduct electricity better
Was watching another RR channel the other day and the guy was making tunnel portals by gluing (fake?) rocks to precut openings on cardboard. This way he could make the arch with a keystone on top (working flat on the bench) and then build the rest of the landscape to blend in that panel after it was secured.
Ken, there is a difference between the black and gray Bachman Ez Track. The black rails are steel and may rust around moisture. The gray rails are nickel silver and better conductors. I only use gray. Bob Reese, MI C/m
Looking good! Check out Aleene's Tacky Glue. You can use it for about anything. It dries clear. It comes in many bottle sizes. I buy it by the gallon and use a glue squeeze bottle.
I love your videos Ken, but you have no real numbering system. It is hard to tell the order of your videos. FYI>Bachmann ez track: Gray is Nickel-silver, Black is Steel. Thanks for Sharing!
I look like you are enjoying your retirement which is fantastic. About making the same mistakes over and not learning, seem to be a human trait. Welcome to the club.
Yes enjoying it much. Haha thanks for watching
Couplers hold the train together. Joiners hold the track together.
Right. Sorry
Most of the cork roadbed I've ever encountered, you have to separate it from each other and turn one side around and put them together so that you get a tapered side on each side of the roadbed. No one had ever taught you how to use it properly. Cheers from eastern TN
Thanks
I would use spikes/ nails to hold the rails in place. Knowing that all is temporary with the setup. They have holes in the rails to go through. And I have only used connecting clips for the rails connecting. Thumbs up 👍 keep it coming!😊
I should look for nails that size
I was thinking about double sided tape. Probably doesn't need to be continuous either. Maybe a short piece every 6 - 8 inches.
@@Kens265 they are only about 1/2” long. I would push them in to the road bed with a needle nose pliers to hold them then push all the way down with the tip of the pliers.
Hi Ken,
I Love the way the layout is taking shape. Keep up the great work you're doing. In watching your videos I noticed you haven't mentioned anything in both layouts about adding a busline to maintain a consistent flow of electricity throughout the layout. For me personally I would include feederlines every 3'-6' too keep the voltage the same.
I definitely need to add feeders
Good morning Ken, nice lay out. Not sure how much cork road base you will use? If you didn't know that line down the center of the cork is a cut line, it is cut on an angle. When you bend and break the halves, you end up with a bevel on one edge, put the two flat edges together and you have a roadbed with sloped sides.
Thanks for the tip
hello Ken & it's is Randy and i like yours video video is cool & Thanks Ken & Friends Randy
Glad you enjoyed it Randy
Ken, I could watch stuff like this all day long!
Thanks I appreciate it. It’s almost to much fun
Looks great Ken! I want to see her climb!!!
Thanks. Coming soon
When putting the cork first split the cork and glue down on each line which is the center of the track.
Cool thanks
Make sure the beveled edges of the cork are facing out.
Just FYI - split the cork roadbed apart and put the pieces back with the tapered side out - looks more like you easy track roadbed then. For next time anyway. Keep up the interesting videos.
Good tip! Thanks
For My Ho I Ran Lifelike Power Loc track And I Painted The Track Grey and Now I See You’re Goin From Grey To Black wow Quite Different.Different strokes Different Folks.
Cool
I use white glue as it dries clear
Thanks good to know
My tracks I Never Had Issues with My Curves. They All Ballanced Out fine.
Very good
Thank You.
I run a different gauge, but I also solder all track connections.It's really helpful on the elevated track. In one area I expect to make changes, I did not use connecting pins, I only soldered the track. Will make it very easy to modify. I also use a volt/ohm meter, and consistently check for continuity as I work. Looking great!
Oh I like the idea of a volt/ohm meter
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge in this video.
Thanks I appreciate it
It will be interesting to see it run when it's finished. I think it will be hypnotizing. Is that a word?
Haha I’m excited for it too
Hello Ken....try adding more ballast to your track to cover the caulking...that should work. I made the same mistake years ago lol.
Thanks for the tip
Bachmann makes two variations of EZ track one is Black Road bed with steel alloy rails the other is Gray Road bed with nickel silver rails both work fine but the nickel silver conduct electricity better
Thanks
Was watching another RR channel the other day and the guy was making tunnel portals by gluing (fake?) rocks to precut openings on cardboard. This way he could make the arch with a keystone on top (working flat on the bench) and then build the rest of the landscape to blend in that panel after it was secured.
Sounds like it’s nice
Ken, there is a difference between the black and gray Bachman Ez Track. The black rails are steel and may rust around moisture. The gray rails are nickel silver and better conductors. I only use gray. Bob Reese, MI
C/m
Thanks good to know
Can you paint the caulking?
Yes it’s paintable
I use white glue to laid the cork and spike the track.
Thanks
Looking good! Check out Aleene's Tacky Glue. You can use it for about anything. It dries clear. It comes in many bottle sizes. I buy it by the gallon and use a glue squeeze bottle.
Oh. Thanks
Layout looks awesome. Sound even more so. What're you using for sound?
Thanks. I went down by the railroad tracks and recorded a real locomotive and rollingstock.
Think of that white caulking as "unmelted snow patches" on the tracks 🤔
Haha good idea
Can you cut the ' hook ' off of the ez track where it meets the regular track instead of notching the cork ?
I could. I just didn’t want to ruin it in case I tear everything apart
Use a multi tool when cutting track.
Thanks
Hi Ken. Nice work & good thoughts on your plans.
Thanks for watching. I appreciate it
looks good
Thanks
Thats alot of work but worth it.
It sure is
Ken, do you know what they call the rail joiners in England? They call them “Fish Plates.” I don’t get it either.
Funny. I’ve heard gusset plates on trusses referred to as fish plates.
Black roadbed is steel rail track
And gray roadbed is nickel sliver rail track nickel sliver track is better with electric current
Cool thanks
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
👋😁😅
Black Sharpie on the white caulk?
I’ll try it
Keep the deer and especially the moose off your tracks. 😊
Haha definitely
comment
👍🪻💜🇺🇸👍looks great
Thanks 👍
I love your videos Ken, but you have no real numbering system. It is hard to tell the order of your videos. FYI>Bachmann ez track: Gray is Nickel-silver, Black is Steel. Thanks for Sharing!