My best friend of over 20 years unfortunately took his own life back in 2017. He owned a 1990 Honda Civic Si EF Hatch. Because of him passing away, I reached out to his family and ended up buying his car. I'd already driven his car several times and I've always been a fan of Honda's and the import scene. I used to have a couple badass 4th Generation Preludes back in the late 90s! With that said, his dream was to have a White EF Hatch with a K20 swap. The hatch is indeed white, and in great shape, but no K20! Just the stock D16 engine with 140k original miles. I got the car a month after he passed away in 17'. I've had it now for nearly 6 years just parked out in my garage. My daily is an Audi S4 but I keep that outside in the elements and keep my EF Hatch covered up in the garage to keep it in the best shape as possible. Especially since the car is so damn sentimental with me! Sorry for the long rant, just wanted to share my story and my love for the EF Hatch and how I came about getting the one I own. Yes this info has been covered a million times already on Google, but for people like me that are clueless on how to work on cars, having it banged into our heads over and over and over again is definitely helpful! +1 Sub!
I'd love to swap a K20 into it, but unless I meet someone who has experience swapping engines in and out of old Hondas, I'll most likely end up going with the B16 VTec that redlines at 8200rpm that came out of the 94 Del Sols. Of course they were also in the JDM EF Hatches as well! Not as beefy as the K20, but from the research I've done, MUCH CHEAPER and MUCH easier to swap! The car again has been garage kept for the last 5 years, but that'll be changing in the near future. I'm finally getting a list together and as Rafiki from the Lion King said... *IT IS TIME!*
Well considering you have an SI hatch already, just buy the mounts to swap in the K20. If you have had it this long, do it right and get the K20 in there. Take your time. Build it how you want it and how you friend (RIP) would like it. Too bad you don’t live closer, I would gladly put it together for you.
For those who go obd0 to obd1 ebay ecu jumper the $20 ones..those are coming out with mixed wires at that harness and missing alternator wire..so it will make your car shut off...i highly suggest to get the 80 dollar jumper harness or blox which is around there too.if you go the 20 dollar route be prepared to depin and repin.plus once you dipin those putting the wire will.be a loose connection so youll have to use hot glue to make a solid connection
@@DJV94022 yeah, I read the reviews of the one I bought on Amazon. Turned out they had an o2 sensor wire wrong. Fixed that and it’s running good. Thanks for watching the video! Hope you decorous stick around.
Sorry I’m late to the party good video. I’m waiting to paint the bay on my 91 civic wagon then I have a b18b1 from a 95 integra going in so I had to piece together all these same things I’m Doing power steering but no AC and I also had to do the auto to manual hydro mounts. Also went with the bracket that allows the clutch master to come right off the pedal set 🔥
Thanks for watching and subscribing! Please do catch up on the EF in some later videos. Had a bit of a rough patch with it but I will be working on it again soon I hope.
Would of been a good video while I was swapping mine. I would like to have ac and ps on mine too but maybe in the future once I go turbo so I can see how much room il have
Yea the prices for K swaps these days have gone up a bunch since all the TH-camrs have hyped up k swapping everything. B series swaps are also pretty expensive these days since they are old motors but people still want that nostalgia. Do you want to boost it or keep it all Motor?
Hey, thanks for taking the time to watch! As stated in the video, you can use any B-series axles and a manual transmission intermediate shaft. If you use the intermediate shaft from a 90-93 Integra, you need to use 90-93 Integra axles. If you use an intermediate shaft from a 94-01 Integra, you need to use 94-01 Integra axles. Hope you decide to stick around for the long run and feel free to reach out with any questions you may have and I will try my best to help out.
I don’t understand where I went wrong with my swap. The engine need to go further back to get the passenger side mount in place, but the rear T bracket is already as far back as it can go with bolting it up to the mount isn’t even an option. I threw on the driver side mount first… maybe thats my issue? B18a1 from a da9 integra using da innovative mounts
Just throwing more info out but the OB2B doesn't always use an immobilizer. I had a 01 Integra and had just a regular key. So I don't know if the immobilizer is chip key based or not.
Should be inside the head of the key. Most of them are within the black portion of the key. Of course by now who knows what previous owners (multiple) have done to the car’s electronics by now.
@@Knownworldwide As confusing as it is, it was not. When I first got it only had one key and just got a regular one cut from the original for a couple bucks. I used that key till I got rid or the car, actually still have the original lol. I mean it's possible that it was modified but seems unlikely since it was stock and still had a B18B1. Although my car never had the unlock fob, the person I got it from said in order to get it he would have had to take it to the dealer and etc. So maybe it's only if the immobilizer gets activated it works?
I had swapped DA hubs on my STD EF a few years ago. I am due to replace my front brake lines due to cracking. I can't remember if I used stock front brakes lines or used DA brake lines. Would you happen to know which lines I would need?
Hey thanks for watching the video! You have a B series in your civic as well? If I recall, I believe DA or CRX si brake lines would work. Might be within your best interest to take the line off and match it up locally at a parts store. You can ask to see a CRX or DA line. I’m 90% sure DC brake lines fit as well. However I would like to think you naturally would have went with a DA or CRX line.
Hey mate I’m doing a b16 swap into my EF2. I’ve managed to find a full ef9 running gear swap. I’ve been told that it’ll sit to high in my engine bay and I’ll need to use a d series alternator which is fine. Do you know how much taller it will be, can I cut my hood and use hood spacers to make room? I’m using factory ef9 engine mounts
@@liamkelly4478 Hey! Thanks for watching! Hood clearance is more or less a thing of the past. This was back when motor mounts weren’t as good as they could have been back in the day. People using eBay mounts/cheap mounts we’re having hood clearance problems. My engine (B18) fits just fit without any hood modifications or spacers. You shouldn’t have any issues IF you use aftermarket B-series mounts from a reputable company. You could potentially have issues IF using the factory mounts from the donor car. B16 engines are shorter than B18 motors so you honestly need to just sit the engine in the car and find out if using the stock mounts (EF9 I assume?) B-series alternator can clear but you will need to take a hammer to the frame rail in order to make some room. You can try and source a DA9 (90-93 Integra) complete alternator and bracket and that might get you a little more clearance back there but you’ll still likely have to bash the frame rail in slightly. Another thing to note (seems like you might live across the pond) if you find that you have clearance issues, you could. 1. Use spacers (cheapest way) 2. Find a ZC hood 3. Sir front end conversion
@ thanks for the quick response, I’m trying to avoid hitting my frame rail in since I’ve just painted my engine bay. I have been told to use d alternator to avoid the clearance issue (I’ll experiment when the motors in) I did try to fit the motor in the car lastnight but couldn’t get the gear box to clear past the gearbox body mount. I’m using a ys1 lsd which I thought was the best fit as the casing is smaller than the hydros. I’ll have another crack at it tonight but yes if I can get it in I might be able to try the si hood or some hood spacers. Sir front would be nice but I’d probably be best just to wait the 2months for hasport mounts to get delivered. Thank you for your help 🙏
@ The problem with the d-series alternator AFAIK is only one bolt will mount up so you only will have one bolt holding on your alternator. As far as the back mount is concerned. It’s definitely easiest to mount the bracket into the car first and tighten up the bolt that goes to the subframe mount. Then shoehorn the motor in there and line up the bracket to the transmission. YS1 is no smaller than a hydro transmission as USDM “RS/LS/GS” Integras also have YS1 hydro transmissions. You can swap all gear sets and diffs between the two cases. Also quite sure the USDM Si hoods are the same as any other crx/NON-Si hood so not sure you’ll be gaining any extra room there. You might look into the DA (90-93) Integra alternator and bracket. They are slightly smaller than the 94+ integra setup. But there is some work involved. You would also need the DA power steering line.
Hi, not sure if you have been following along on this build but I haven’t gotten that far as of yet. I know if you want to retain the factory D-series ac compressor that you will need to get an aftermarket ac bracket from innovative OR Hasport. They both make a B series bracket that will accept the stock D series compressor.
Quick question, on your shift linkage does the bolt holes for the shifter line up perfectly? Mine seems to be offset and haven't heard back from innovative after multiple inquiries. I either have to find someone to weld one of the holes shut so I can drill a new hole.
@@marcozuniga8163 I didn’t have any problems getting mine in. I mean it wasn’t exactly a walk in the park but it wasn’t hard. There is a bushing on the bottom of that shift lever that may need to be persuaded to line up with the hole. I will say that my bolt was definitely tight in there and there wasn’t any slack or looseness at all.
So with this conversion the driver side mount should come with a thick billet looking spacer, did u out that on the driver side or passenger side? Im having this issue to and i may of figured it out, my linkage is tilted to the left towards driver and at first my buddy was having issues with the mounts without the spacer, so he put it on the passenger side and it corrected it but it was wrong, its supposed to go on driver side
@@rauelramos2212 mine came with a spacer but I didn’t use it. Just used a nut on the single threaded post and then I bought my own bolt and nut for the other hole.
Yes. However I suggest using a B18B intake manifold since the B20 intake manifolds are very tall. Might not clear the hood without running spacers on the hood hinges.
@@robomania6164 Yes. Technically. Although some stuff might not be in the same location depending on what you did with your MAP sensor and IACV wiring could be different between the Z6 and whatever B series you choose.
@@corn615 Unfortunately not exactly. If you are starting with an SI model CRX/Civic. Then you’ll be slightly better off since those models are MPFI already so wiring should be easier. If you start with anything else, they are carburetor models and wiring will be much more involved and maybe even using a premade custom harness would save you the headache of trying to do it yourself. Motor mounts are already available through hasport do a B-swap. It’s just the wiring you would have to sort out. I am not familiar with that generation civic too much though. I would imagine the 1 gen Integra could have the wiring you need since those came with a Dual cam MPFI motor.
Of course! Thanks for watch the video. I have been wanting to get back to working in this car but engine parts are becoming harder and harder to find for these B series.
@@HackMassacre Just take that broken axle in and match it up to a new one. You’ll be after a 90-93 Integra axle OR a 94-01 Integra axle. If one doesn’t match, just ask for the other year range.
I just used the stock hubs. The DX/LX/EX hubs work just fine. If you have a STD (4-speed manual factory) civic hatchback OR a HF crx, you need to swap out the hubs.
@@The_Crx damn, sorry bro. I really appreciate you taking your time out of your day to watch my videos. I do hope that you decide to subscribe and stick around for the long run. I will have another Honda on the channel at some point.
Hello, first of all, thank you for your information. My English is not at a very good level. I have a Civic EF with a D14A1 engine. Can you briefly write down all the parts I need to swap B18 into this? I can't fully understand what you're saying. If you write, I will understand better. I want to change it myself, thank you.
I stated it in the video. I paid $300 for everything you see there. Excluding the mounts and shift linkage. I waited for pick n pull to have a 25% sale and I grabbed everything.
@@noe_perez.cg1 the obd-1 harness is not going to work with the factory EF (if you are swapping it into a EF chassis) chassis harness. You would have rewire it all to work with the factory EF plugs and that’s just too much effort. You are swapping into an EF right?
@ I see. I am not super familiar with that chassis. Obviously you’ll need the proper mounts for that car. I believe some of those (if not all of them) already were running sequential fuel injection (4 injectors) and if so, it would be to your benefit to find the wiring diagram for your specific ECU (your factory accord ECU) and rewire your current harness to use on the B series. This is what I did for my EF. You could also use a rywire harness. I would think he made one for this swap as well.
@@noe_perez.cg1 no problem. Not sure if that helps you but please feel free to hit me up if you have any more questions. I’ll try my best to help you out.
Just to say my situation is probably different than others since I got my motor from the junkyard on sale. Complete motor, transmission, wiring harness, axles: $300 Swap mounts: $250 Shift linkage: $150 ECU: $100 ECU jumper harness: $25 Total: $825
There are a few other small things I had to do before putting the motor in that I would count under “misc.” Things like bulk wiring, I had to helicoil a spark plug hole, I had to buy some bolts for the left mount etc… so maybe add another $100 to that total. I’d say less than $1000 for a B swap is winning in 2023!
Factory D series I pulled out is rated at 92hp (~79 whp) this motor is rated at 140hp (~119whp) Of course these are just stock numbers. We can only go up from here. Keep in mind this car only weighs 2k lbs.
@@Knownworldwide Hypothetically speaking, let's say someone wanted to swap a Honda engine into a Prius; what would be your knee jerk suggested swap for such a hypothetical thing?
My best friend of over 20 years unfortunately took his own life back in 2017. He owned a 1990 Honda Civic Si EF Hatch. Because of him passing away,
I reached out to his family and ended up buying his car. I'd already driven his car several times and I've always been a fan of Honda's and the import scene.
I used to have a couple badass 4th Generation Preludes back in the late 90s! With that said, his dream was to have a White EF Hatch with a K20 swap. The
hatch is indeed white, and in great shape, but no K20! Just the stock D16 engine with 140k original miles. I got the car a month after he passed away in 17'.
I've had it now for nearly 6 years just parked out in my garage. My daily is an Audi S4 but I keep that outside in the elements and keep my EF Hatch covered
up in the garage to keep it in the best shape as possible. Especially since the car is so damn sentimental with me! Sorry for the long rant, just wanted to
share my story and my love for the EF Hatch and how I came about getting the one I own. Yes this info has been covered a million times already on Google,
but for people like me that are clueless on how to work on cars, having it banged into our heads over and over and over again is definitely helpful! +1 Sub!
I'd love to swap a K20 into it, but unless I meet someone who has experience swapping engines in and out of old Hondas, I'll most likely end up going with
the B16 VTec that redlines at 8200rpm that came out of the 94 Del Sols. Of course they were also in the JDM EF Hatches as well! Not as beefy as the K20,
but from the research I've done, MUCH CHEAPER and MUCH easier to swap! The car again has been garage kept for the last 5 years, but that'll be changing
in the near future. I'm finally getting a list together and as Rafiki from the Lion King said... *IT IS TIME!*
Well considering you have an SI hatch already, just buy the mounts to swap in the K20. If you have had it this long, do it right and get the K20 in there. Take your time. Build it how you want it and how you friend (RIP) would like it. Too bad you don’t live closer, I would gladly put it together for you.
Appreciate you watching the video and I appreciate your support.
For those who go obd0 to obd1 ebay ecu jumper the $20 ones..those are coming out with mixed wires at that harness and missing alternator wire..so it will make your car shut off...i highly suggest to get the 80 dollar jumper harness or blox which is around there too.if you go the 20 dollar route be prepared to depin and repin.plus once you dipin those putting the wire will.be a loose connection so youll have to use hot glue to make a solid connection
I mentioned this in later video. Easy to de pin and re-pin. Takes only a couple mins. One wire was in the wrong spot. Been running fine though.
@@Knownworldwide yeah i bought two ebay ones to find out none of them got delivered in a good working state
So i had to repin and install a missing wire and got left with a spare harness to just use for parts lol
@@DJV94022 yeah, I read the reviews of the one I bought on Amazon. Turned out they had an o2 sensor wire wrong. Fixed that and it’s running good. Thanks for watching the video! Hope you decorous stick around.
I've bswapped mine , definitely interested in the cable to hydro setup
Are you using this cable to hydro setup I have now?
As soon as you said Neptune I knew what was up. Subscribed sir 😊
Haha, great minds think alike. Appreciate you sticking around my guy!
Sorry I’m late to the party good video. I’m waiting to paint the bay on my 91 civic wagon then I have a b18b1 from a 95 integra going in so I had to piece together all these same things I’m
Doing power steering but no AC and I also had to do the auto to manual hydro mounts. Also went with the bracket that allows the clutch master to come right off the pedal set 🔥
Thanks for watching and subscribing! Please do catch up on the EF in some later videos. Had a bit of a rough patch with it but I will be working on it again soon I hope.
Would of been a good video while I was swapping mine. I would like to have ac and ps on mine too but maybe in the future once I go turbo so I can see how much room il have
Your manifold will determine if you can run p/s or AC.
I was thinking about doing a b series swap in my wagon. But I’ve been debating on that or k swap! 🤦🏻♂️ but I’d probably spend double doing a k swap
Yea the prices for K swaps these days have gone up a bunch since all the TH-camrs have hyped up k swapping everything. B series swaps are also pretty expensive these days since they are old motors but people still want that nostalgia.
Do you want to boost it or keep it all
Motor?
Thanks for the video plan on b swapping my crx
Awesome! You’re very welcome. What b series you going with?
great video bro..when u popped out from that hood tho lol😂🫡🤜🤛keep the content coming..
Lmao! I had to do it. Thanks for watching and thanks for the support!
@@Knownworldwide fasho bro i’m gonna keep supporting..IM SUBSCRIBED!!god bless
Can you make a video for coolant/bypass hoses?
@@leoflako13 You would like to bypass the heater core?
I’m swapping a b16a2 in a 93 ef wegon I’m wondering what axles and driveshaft do I need to get?
Hey, thanks for taking the time to watch! As stated in the video, you can use any B-series axles and a manual transmission intermediate shaft.
If you use the intermediate shaft from a 90-93 Integra, you need to use 90-93 Integra axles. If you use an intermediate shaft from a 94-01 Integra, you need to use 94-01 Integra axles.
Hope you decide to stick around for the long run and feel free to reach out with any questions you may have and I will try my best to help out.
@@Knownworldwide ur welcome and thank you.if I’m using a 90-93 axles and driveshaft would it be the the same for the driver side axles
@@binhnguyen-mt3im what intermediate shaft are you using?
I don’t understand where I went wrong with my swap. The engine need to go further back to get the passenger side mount in place, but the rear T bracket is already as far back as it can go with bolting it up to the mount isn’t even an option. I threw on the driver side mount first… maybe thats my issue? B18a1 from a da9 integra using da innovative mounts
You should be using swap mounts for the EF chassis. Can’t use DA mounts on the EF chassis.
Appreciate you taking the time to watch the video BTW. I hope you decide to stick around. Please reach out with any other questions you may have.
Could you use a DA trans mount on gsr hydro? For the EF swap of course
@@FundiTube Unfortunately you can not. Cable and Hydro mounts are different. Thanks for watching! Hope you decide to stick around for awhile.
Nothing like a b series swapped ef or eg with ps and ac. One of my cars is a eg 4dr with a jdm obd2a gsr swap in with ac and ps.
Awesome
Bro! I definitely like a nice simple b swap. Harder to find these days with all the K swaps
Just throwing more info out but the OB2B doesn't always use an immobilizer. I had a 01 Integra and had just a regular key. So I don't know if the immobilizer is chip key based or not.
Should be inside the head of the key. Most of them are within the black portion of the key. Of course by now who knows what previous owners (multiple) have done to the car’s electronics by now.
@@Knownworldwide As confusing as it is, it was not. When I first got it only had one key and just got a regular one cut from the original for a couple bucks. I used that key till I got rid or the car, actually still have the original lol. I mean it's possible that it was modified but seems unlikely since it was stock and still had a B18B1. Although my car never had the unlock fob, the person I got it from said in order to get it he would have had to take it to the dealer and etc. So maybe it's only if the immobilizer gets activated it works?
@@aaronhoward7226 Well that’s news to me haha. Thanks for the information.
Nice one👍💪🤝💯🔥
Thanks bro! Appreciate you taking your time to watch the video.
@@Knownworldwide you're welcome brother, that's why we're here to support you🤝🤝💯
Bori tu estas en todo los videos 😂 suerte con la kserie
@@DJV94022 apoyardo siempre papi🤜🤛💯
I had swapped DA hubs on my STD EF a few years ago. I am due to replace my front brake lines due to cracking. I can't remember if I used stock front brakes lines or used DA brake lines. Would you happen to know which lines I would need?
Hey thanks for watching the video! You have a B series in your civic as well?
If I recall, I believe DA or CRX si brake lines would work. Might be within your best interest to take the line off and match it up locally at a parts store. You can ask to see a CRX or DA line. I’m 90% sure DC brake lines fit as well. However I would like to think you naturally would have went with a DA or CRX line.
Hey mate I’m doing a b16 swap into my EF2. I’ve managed to find a full ef9 running gear swap. I’ve been told that it’ll sit to high in my engine bay and I’ll need to use a d series alternator which is fine. Do you know how much taller it will be, can I cut my hood and use hood spacers to make room? I’m using factory ef9 engine mounts
@@liamkelly4478 Hey! Thanks for watching! Hood clearance is more or less a thing of the past. This was back when motor mounts weren’t as good as they could have been back in the day. People using eBay mounts/cheap mounts we’re having hood clearance problems. My engine (B18) fits just fit without any hood modifications or spacers.
You shouldn’t have any issues IF you use aftermarket B-series mounts from a reputable company. You could potentially have issues IF using the factory mounts from the donor car. B16 engines are shorter than B18 motors so you honestly need to just sit the engine in the car and find out if using the stock mounts (EF9 I assume?)
B-series alternator can clear but you will need to take a hammer to the frame rail in order to make some room. You can try and source a DA9 (90-93 Integra) complete alternator and bracket and that might get you a little more clearance back there but you’ll still likely have to bash the frame rail in slightly.
Another thing to note (seems like you might live across the pond) if you find that you have clearance issues, you could.
1. Use spacers (cheapest way)
2. Find a ZC hood
3. Sir front end conversion
@ thanks for the quick response, I’m trying to avoid hitting my frame rail in since I’ve just painted my engine bay. I have been told to use d alternator to avoid the clearance issue (I’ll experiment when the motors in) I did try to fit the motor in the car lastnight but couldn’t get the gear box to clear past the gearbox body mount. I’m using a ys1 lsd which I thought was the best fit as the casing is smaller than the hydros. I’ll have another crack at it tonight but yes if I can get it in I might be able to try the si hood or some hood spacers. Sir front would be nice but I’d probably be best just to wait the 2months for hasport mounts to get delivered. Thank you for your help 🙏
@ The problem with the d-series alternator AFAIK is only one bolt will mount up so you only will have one bolt holding on your alternator.
As far as the back mount is concerned. It’s definitely easiest to mount the bracket into the car first and tighten up the bolt that goes to the subframe mount. Then shoehorn the motor in there and line up the bracket to the transmission.
YS1 is no smaller than a hydro transmission as USDM “RS/LS/GS” Integras also have YS1 hydro transmissions. You can swap all gear sets and diffs between the two cases.
Also quite sure the USDM Si hoods are the same as any other crx/NON-Si hood so not sure you’ll be gaining any extra room there.
You might look into the DA (90-93) Integra alternator and bracket. They are slightly smaller than the 94+ integra setup. But there is some work involved. You would also need the DA power steering line.
awesome video!! did u have to buy an aftermarket bracket to make the AC fit?
Hi, not sure if you have been following along on this build but I haven’t gotten that far as of yet. I know if you want to retain the factory D-series ac compressor that you will need to get an aftermarket ac bracket from innovative OR Hasport. They both make a B series bracket that will accept the stock D series compressor.
Thanks for watching! I hope you decide to stick around!
Hi bro how about the fuel tank how is work for swap b series
@@marvinreyes6270 Works the same. No need to change anything with the fuel tank or the fuel pump.
@@Knownworldwide but the car ef the one i buy is carburator from germany
@marvinreyes6270 what model? What engine?
Quick question, on your shift linkage does the bolt holes for the shifter line up perfectly? Mine seems to be offset and haven't heard back from innovative after multiple inquiries. I either have to find someone to weld one of the holes shut so I can drill a new hole.
Which hole are you referring to?
@@Knownworldwide where the shifter bolts up to the shift linkage opposite side of the bar with the joint.
@@marcozuniga8163 I didn’t have any problems getting mine in. I mean it wasn’t exactly a walk in the park but it wasn’t hard. There is a bushing on the bottom of that shift lever that may need to be persuaded to line up with the hole.
I will say that my bolt was definitely tight in there and there wasn’t any slack or looseness at all.
So with this conversion the driver side mount should come with a thick billet looking spacer, did u out that on the driver side or passenger side? Im having this issue to and i may of figured it out, my linkage is tilted to the left towards driver and at first my buddy was having issues with the mounts without the spacer, so he put it on the passenger side and it corrected it but it was wrong, its supposed to go on driver side
@@rauelramos2212 mine came with a spacer but I didn’t use it. Just used a nut on the single threaded post and then I bought my own bolt and nut for the other hole.
So the b 20 would work with the same parts u showed
Yes. However I suggest using a B18B intake manifold since the B20 intake manifolds are very tall. Might not clear the hood without running spacers on the hood hinges.
So I’m already obd1 with a d16z6. I should be able to use this harness right?
@@robomania6164 Yes. Technically. Although some stuff might not be in the same location depending on what you did with your MAP sensor and IACV wiring could be different between the Z6 and whatever B series you choose.
@@Knownworldwide thanks for replying
@@robomania6164 of course. Feel free to reach out whenever. You can hit me on IG too
Does this info apply to the 84-87 civics?
@@corn615 Unfortunately not exactly. If you are starting with an SI model CRX/Civic. Then you’ll be slightly better off since those models are MPFI already so wiring should be easier. If you start with anything else, they are carburetor models and wiring will be much more involved and maybe even using a premade custom harness would save you the headache of trying to do it yourself.
Motor mounts are already available through hasport do a B-swap. It’s just the wiring you would have to sort out. I am not familiar with that generation civic too much though. I would imagine the 1 gen Integra could have the wiring you need since those came with a Dual cam MPFI motor.
Very very helpful thanks
Of course! Thanks for watch the video. I have been wanting to get back to working in this car but engine parts are becoming harder and harder to find for these B series.
That opening tho lol
Couldn’t help myself.
How do I know what half shaft I have? I bought a car with the swap in it and have no idea what half shaft they used.
@@HackMassacre May I ask what you are trying to replace first? A bad axle?
@@Knownworldwide yes. My boot is ripped.
@@HackMassacre Just take that broken axle in and match it up to a new one.
You’ll be after a 90-93 Integra axle OR a 94-01 Integra axle.
If one doesn’t match, just ask for the other year range.
Well made
Hey thanks for watching!
How about the wheels Hubs?. What are you going to use?
I just used the stock hubs. The DX/LX/EX hubs work just fine. If you have a STD (4-speed manual factory) civic hatchback OR a HF crx, you need to swap out the hubs.
Man I seen all your videos to the build. Sucks what happened to it. My 91 Hatchback got stolen from me last year In august.
@@The_Crx damn, sorry bro. I really appreciate you taking your time out of your day to watch my videos. I do hope that you decide to subscribe and stick around for the long run. I will have another Honda on the channel at some point.
@@Knownworldwide most definitely.
Hello, first of all, thank you for your information. My English is not at a very good level. I have a Civic EF with a D14A1 engine. Can you briefly write down all the parts I need to swap B18 into this? I can't fully understand what you're saying. If you write, I will understand better. I want to change it myself, thank you.
@@Deltamedya
Engine
Cable transmission
Mounts
ECU for engine
Shift linkage (aftermarket)
Integra axles
B series Manual transmission intermediate shaft
DPFI to MPFI wiring conversion
@Knownworldwide Will the engine and transmission change together? Are D series transmissions compatible with B series?
@@Knownworldwide and my car is carbureted
@ no the D series and B series transmissions are NOT the same.
@ You have to convert your wiring to MPFI as I stated above.
How much did you pay for your b series I payed 300 (back in 2020) but it wouldn't have ran had I not tore into it (cracked valves)
I stated it in the video. I paid $300 for everything you see there. Excluding the mounts and shift linkage. I waited for pick n pull to have a 25% sale and I grabbed everything.
I am swapping a b16A, can I use the same Shafts?
What transmission are you using?
@@Knownworldwide S80 4.7 LSD
Sorry, I just saw this. Yes you can use the 94-01 Integra axles. You need to use the 94-01 Integra intermediate shaft from a MT car.
Thanks, I fitted the shafts came with tht engine, looks like it's perfect.. yet to test it, waiting for post mount bracket and t bracket..
Kinda late to comment this but I have a obd2 ls motor and was wondering if I can use a obd1 harness and the obd1 ecu?
@@noe_perez.cg1 the obd-1 harness is not going to work with the factory EF (if you are swapping it into a EF chassis) chassis harness. You would have rewire it all to work with the factory EF plugs and that’s just too much effort.
You are swapping into an EF right?
@ I am swapping it into a CA5
@ I see. I am not super familiar with that chassis. Obviously you’ll need the proper mounts for that car. I believe some of those (if not all of them) already were running sequential fuel injection (4 injectors) and if so, it would be to your benefit to find the wiring diagram for your specific ECU (your factory accord ECU) and rewire your current harness to use on the B series. This is what I did for my EF.
You could also use a rywire harness. I would think he made one for this swap as well.
@ thank you thank you
@@noe_perez.cg1 no problem. Not sure if that helps you but please feel free to hit me up if you have any more questions. I’ll try my best to help you out.
Dope intro cuz 😂
😂 couldn’t help myself. Thanks for watching the video bro! Hope you decide to stick around
Absolutely fam check me out @thefearonshop here
How much is the total swap??
Just to say my situation is probably different than others since I got my motor from the junkyard on sale.
Complete motor, transmission, wiring harness, axles: $300
Swap mounts: $250
Shift linkage: $150
ECU: $100
ECU jumper harness: $25
Total: $825
There are a few other small things I had to do before putting the motor in that I would count under “misc.” Things like bulk wiring, I had to helicoil a spark plug hole, I had to buy some bolts for the left mount etc… so maybe add another $100 to that total. I’d say less than $1000 for a B swap is winning in 2023!
How many horsepowers do you think you can make?
Factory D series I pulled out is rated at 92hp (~79 whp) this motor is rated at 140hp (~119whp)
Of course these are just stock numbers. We can only go up from here.
Keep in mind this car only weighs 2k lbs.
@@Knownworldwide no no. I meant “you”.
Well I did run track in HS, so at least 5hp
@@Knownworldwide Hypothetically speaking, let's say someone wanted to swap a Honda engine into a Prius; what would be your knee jerk suggested swap for such a hypothetical thing?
@@LoganDidItYT a k swap. It’s been done already but I don’t believe there are mounts for it so you would have to dab up something on your own.
#SavetheEF
Yes sir! 🙌🏽 thanks for watching and thanks for support! Really appreciate that.