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What?! That’s cool, you and a buddy doing it together?

@ I’ll text ya about it.

@@alexlavoie8040 You are using the CX supplied turbo? Or the speedway turbo? Awesome setup! I am just using a 4an feed fitting (just googled GT35 turbo feed) I will say that It leaks a little and I am now going to see if a banjo type feed will work better. Drain I am using a dodge Cummins turbo OE drain tube.

@lucatesar1692 first off thanks for watching! It would be easier for me to ask you how much power do you want to make or plan on making? I can tell you right away that using a return setup will net the best results. As far as what pump and injectors to run, that depends on how much power you want to make and what fuel you want to use.

@ I just want to run it on normal fuel, I’m still gonna attempt to daily the car. 300-350hp is plenty for me I don’t need crazy numbers. I wonder if just the injectors could get me there. But is it safer/more reliable to run the fuel return? I found a walbro 255 pump, a fpr from K-motor performance, and I could get fuel lines from my local shop if I wanted to go that route Thanks again and keep up the content!

@ You absolutely need a fuel return setup. There isn’t a way around that. Are you running a stand alone ECU? If you are: I would run at least 550cc injectors with the 255 pump and set your FPR to 43-44psi and you will have plenty of fuel to make 300-350 wheel. If you aren’t running a stand alone or you’re using the stock ECU, you are pretty limited to what you can do. Going to bigger injectors will not idle great if at all because the stock ECU will not have the capability to decrease injector PW enough to compensate for the bigger injectors.

I like IS300 in general. There are some things I dislike about them but overall they are great cars and very reliable if taken care of. If you haven’t taken a look at my channel, I encourage you to to check out the video I made about things I like and dislike about the car. Thanks for watching btw!

@Knownworldwide notice any difference on the intake ?

@ It’s a little quicker yeah. Sounds much better! I’ve already had this intake on the car before. I’ve recently returned this car to stock.

@@VrVon.300 Hey thanks for taking the time to watch! Means a lot to me. Happy to help out with anything you may need feel free to reach out anytime! Good luck on your build! How much power you shooting for?

@@craigwalsh8116 Hey thanks for watching! Oh yeah I have thought about upgrading the bottom end. Most go with the GTE rods and pistons but if I’m honest I’m gonna see just how far I take this stock GE. I’m currently at 12psi for the past 3 months and it feels great! If I had to guess I’m probably sitting around 400 wheel right now which puts me ~470ish crank. Oil squirters definitely aren’t needed. You building an IS or GS or SC?

@@slightlymodified501 hey! Appreciate you watching the video first off! As far as the AEM is concerned, it can work but unfortunately even the GTE ECU is a learning ECU and eventually the ECU will slowly start reverting back to stock. What turbo kit did you get or did you piece together a kit? Is your car manual or auto?

@ my turbo kit is a mix of things I had laying around, holset turbo, 45mm wastegate ge vvti head, non vvti block, gte vvti harness and ecu. Tried just about every combination of engine/ECU’s just never a piggyback. Thought about running the ecu just by itself because ive done it before and it works good

@ Well if I may suggest maybe changing to a stand alone. It has been leaps and bounds more reliable than any piggyback could ever be. Unfortunately with these cars, the MPX system means that the factory ECU needs to be retained. This can be accomplished by using an ECU masters EMU BLACK (what I use) or another great stand alone is the Link G4X.

@@Knownworldwide thank you for the tips!

@ of course! Feel free to reach out whenever. Here or on IG.

@@armughanazhar3918 You’re not wrong. However either way works just the same. I prefer the notches. After 20 or so 2JZ timing belt jobs, this works for me.

​@@Knownworldwide on some engine for example 3sgte the cams don't like staying still at tdc without the belt but its non-interferance so non-issue. Doesn't seem like a problem on 2jz. btw don't forget the vvti gear o ring if it leaks down the road it will cover everthing in oil. I am also in the middle of a t-belt job right now only because of the vvti

@ yeah. I think my boosted motor VVTi gear may have finally kicked the can. I did the timing belt job on that motor about 50k ago and I now am seeing some oil seeping out of just the one side. However since I’m in the middle of these swaps. I’m already doing complete timing jobs on both. Good luck with your belt job.

@@Knownworldwide thankyou likewise good luck with the swaps!

@armughanazhar3918 Thanks! Auto car is up and running now.

@@Monster0wen Thanks for watching! Currently I am running just the stock Lexus cat back exhaust. It’s very restrictive no doubt but the car definitely has that sleeper vibe. If you have watched any other videos, I am working on swapping engines and plan on finally stepping up to a Greddy 3” cat back system.

@@quincycarter6979 yes sir! Lots of work but gonna be worth it all said and done.

@@BericBuilds Nice! What year GS? Any plans for it? Appreciate you taking the time to watch the video!

@@BrodyCormier You have this same speedway turbo?

@ yessir

@@BrodyCormier Not sure. If your drain isn’t free flowing down to the oil pan. You can have issues. I can take a picture of how mine is ran if you have IG you can see

@ I have a few pictures of my setup on there as well

@ hit me up there and maybe we can figure it out

@@109number9 took me about 4 hours also. I opted to leave the compressor and power steering on the car which is harder since I have to leave the condenser in place which is harder to get around.

@@tysonastengoo6391 thank you sir!

@@craziidevil4641 sounds good man! You already have a turbo setup? Or you still need to get something put together? I have been loving the EMU black. Definitely worth every penny.

@Knownworldwide Yeah you had help me out around this time last year running the same cx kit with my maf basically being tricked.

@ Gotcha, would love to see some progress man! If you need any tuning hit me up.

@@armughanazhar3918 Yeah this is what I have heard. To be quite honest, putting on a header waa a long shot since the car is literally just going back to stock/normal duties. Most likely won’t buy any I’m thinking. Thanks for further clarification haha. I have two sets of cats to choose from now so I’ll just use what I have now with new y-pipe gaskets.

@@Knownworldwide glad to share little bit back since I've been bugging you a lot lol. I went back to stock cats until time comes for turbo.

@@victorvelcea appreciate the kind words! Appreciate the support! I’m happy to see your build start! Take some pictures or pick up a camera. I would love to see it.

@@morganthomas9404 Bummer. I was going that route but for the price I paid for this manual car, I just couldn’t pass on it. There are plenty of auto to manual conversions documented on forums. I’d suggest checking out My.is forum. Search R154 swap and there should be a good thread that pops up.

@Knownworldwide I've been on all those forums especially my.is and I've learned alot from them. I just like how your videos are put together.

@ Appreciate that. Are you getting ready to do the conversion yourself?

@@Knownworldwide yes I have some of the parts already. I'm saving up for an r154.

@ Awesome! Good choice. I will likely go that route whenever this W55 breaks. Hopefully not too soon though.

@@edgarrojas9628 Thanks bro! We definitely should link up man. Get yours back together!

@@KnownworldwideThats this years goal 🔥

Hahaha i don’t see it lasting either. I’m quite confident that right now I am making at least 400 wheel if not just a touch more at my current boost level. Which is ~11.5-12psi. A guy I was watching with this same kit and an unopened VVTi ge made 12psi and made 422 whp. Left it that way for 2 years and it lived. I’m definitely determined to take this motor to the limit out of curiosity. W55 will likely break before I get there like you said.

Thanks! Appreciate the support and happy new year to you as well! Pick up a camera! Would love to see your build.

@@corn615 Unfortunately not exactly. If you are starting with an SI model CRX/Civic. Then you’ll be slightly better off since those models are MPFI already so wiring should be easier. If you start with anything else, they are carburetor models and wiring will be much more involved and maybe even using a premade custom harness would save you the headache of trying to do it yourself. Motor mounts are already available through hasport do a B-swap. It’s just the wiring you would have to sort out. I am not familiar with that generation civic too much though. I would imagine the 1 gen Integra could have the wiring you need since those came with a Dual cam MPFI motor.

@@grizzly9405 Awesome! I bet it’s funto drive. Any idea how much power you’re making? Been on a dyno?

@@RoyalJZ Hey man! First off thanks for watching! If you would like to hit me up on IG we can talk about getting your GS tuned. I’d be happy to help. IG: Knownworld_wide

@ okay I’ll dm you right now

@@armughanazhar3918 The EMU black is controlling almost every engine parameter. It is not controlling the electronic throttle body. It is controlling everything else. As you have mentioned, it works in parallel with the factory ECU so that everything still functions inside the car. Ac works, cluster works, everything functions as factory still. The EMU does control the CEL light in that it turns it off even though there are actually codes present. So if I plug up my OBD scanner, I will pull codes (about 8-9 of them) because the EMU has taken control of these engine sensors and the factory is wondering “where” they went. For example there are all 4 o2 sensor codes since non of them are utilized. There are misfire codes (because the EMU has taken control of the coils) but the car does not misfire at all. Etc…

@@armughanazhar3918 i appreciate you watching the videos! Hope you’re not mad decide to stick around for awhile.

@@Knownworldwide thanks for the reponse bro! based on yours and others experience I am trying to see which option will be most straight forward (standalone vs piggyback) to keep the stock ecu happy for obdii emissions. Seems like plug and play harnesses don't share sensors with stock ecu rather just they reroute to the standalone. its possible to wire it so that stock ecu shares inputs and engine related outputs outputs only come from standalone. which do you think is the way to go in this situation?

@@armughanazhar3918 If you don’t have to pass a visual test and strictly an OBD monitor readiness test it’s going to be difficult to do that. A piggyback would work the best in theory but you would still need to do some trickery (O2 simulators) with the down stream o2 sensors. Unfortunately there really isn’t a good way to boost the car AND pass emissions testing. When I had the piggyback on my car. I could get all the monitors to set if I drove the car normally. However the down stream o2 sensors will never set and the cat monitor won’t set unless you buy (or make) o2 sims.

@@Knownworldwide I am actually simulating b2s2 currently being na and can easily make one for b1s2. I can reset the ECU and stay out of boost omw to inspection, can the piggyback be tuned only for on boost application and have it not do anything everywhere else?

@@carsanalyzed3526 hey! Thanks for watching first off! You’re a legend. I used PLM turbo studs. They work great! I did have to trim one of them shorter to fit but they have been holding up just fine!

@ I don’t know about that - but I appreciate it, thank you! It’s amazing what they put in the CX Racing turbo kit that wouldn’t possibly work 🤷‍♂️. Anyhow, wasn’t sure if you had found a set at the appropriate length, although I guess that would depend on the turbo being run. Keep up the content 👍

@ here is what I am running. privatelabelmfg.com/products/plm-turbo-to-manifold-stud-nut-kit-m10-x-1-5?_pos=2&_sid=53d9a71fd&_ss=r

How did I wire it up or how did I connect the vacuum lines?

@ Wire it up. I extended my wires to it, but it doesn’t open up. But there’s power coming from the plug using a test light, and the solenoid clicks open when I connect it to a 9v battery

@ Since the EF already had wires for a purge solenoid, you just had to make them reach the B-series solenoid. From there, I assume you’re using an ECU jumper harness to use a proper B-series ECU right? You shouldn’t need to do any extra wiring as the jumper harness should do its job at bringing the purge solenoid wiring to its proper pin on the B-series ECU.

@ Yeah, I’m using a rywire harness and P75. I just don’t get why my solenoid isn’t opening up when I connect the plug after extending the EF wires

@ well it’s not going to just open up like that. They are designed to open up at certain times.

@@edgarrojas9628 Yes sir! I’m hoping it does something over 250 wheel.

It for sure will👍

@ need more videos of your build man!

Hey! I did have to modify a couple pieces to get it to fit. It says on their website that it is made for civics with a D16 or B16 but I don't buy that at all tbh. If you have time, check out the video I made when fitting the intercooler and you can see exactly the route I chose to go about fitting it up. FYI: I probably could have just lived with the driver side running under the frame rail but I just did want to do that so I hole sawed a hole into the body. You'll see what I mean. It works great though! IATs are definitely kept in check!

@ thanks for the reply ! I’ll check the video out thanks

@ of course. It was a bit of work for the routing I chose but I think if you take the easier route (under the radiator support) it should be easy.

@@bstdamgc6387 Awesome! When is the turbo going on???

@@Knownworldwide I plan to rebuild the block, its a jdm b18b and its going on a b16a head. the rest is a breeze..

@ Sounds like it’ll be very fun. I do have two VTEC heads. Wish they were complete but too hard to source the cam caps and rails. Would love to see the build man.

@@Knownworldwide do you have a ig?

@ yessir. I just use it to communicate though. Don’t post on it really. Knownworld_wide

@@issaclara4149 Hey glad to be able to help out!

Hell yeah man. It's a 2016 Scion tc by the way. Maxspeedingrods. Gt 3582 turbo on 8psi

@ how’s it running?

@@Omegaej1 Same to you! We gotta link up for lunch or dinner or something again.

@@johnquinn3700 right on! I did get the injectors installed. Making 11psi now. Baby turbo though so of course I need more!!

@@gorillabuilt2489 appreciate that! When it rains, I just can’t help myself haha. Thanks for watching!

@@Dylan_Chillen Hey thanks! Appreciate you watching the video!

@@WoodrowsWheels Yeah, I’m trying to look into my options for a clutch that will hold some power (~500whp)

@@Knownworldwide you should also take a look at Dodo racing and the air to water intercooler they are working on. I had told you about the extra Aristo intake I had but the Dodo intercooler might be the way to go if you want to keep the cross over intake. I also have a stock IS upper plenum with the butterfly valve removed. I'd happily give that one to you for free if you covered the shipping cost

@ I might have to take you up on that. These are things I plan on addressing once I have both engines out of the cars. Probably won’t be doing much over the course of this month though. Busy with all the holidays and such. I do plan on keeping the cross over setup for now. I have seen the dodo intercooler setup. Looks pretty cool. I have much to read about.

@@vincejordan2715 Haha, just messing around tuning things

@@Keyno77 Sounds like you about to have some fun this winter in the garage! I will definitely be keeping the IS300 content coming. Gonna be slow these next couple weeks (Christmas time) Merry Christmas to you and be safe out there! Appreciate the support as always 🙏

@@jmb1679 Your car should have a cold start (AUXILIARY Injector) that is connected right into the intake manifold. I believe it has a blue colored body. You can try unplugging that that see if it will start/run better at idle.

@ thank you, after some digging I talked to someone who said they had the exact problem. They said remove the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure valve and if there is fuel there replace the fpv. Ordered one and hopefully that fixes the problem. He said if the fpv isn’t working the engine is being flooded with too much fuel leading to a flooded state and not enough air to fuel ratio causing the engine to not start sometimes while other times attempts to start. Once I install that and if it doesn’t work I will attempt what you were saying but he said he had the exact same issue on his so hopefully that fixes the problem. It also explains why there is fuel leaking into the intake boot air sensor and air box. Will update if it works or not

@ I assume you actually checked your vacuum line and it has fuel In it? Wouldn’t want to just start changing things to change them.

@@liamkelly4478 Hey! Thanks for watching! Hood clearance is more or less a thing of the past. This was back when motor mounts weren’t as good as they could have been back in the day. People using eBay mounts/cheap mounts we’re having hood clearance problems. My engine (B18) fits just fit without any hood modifications or spacers. You shouldn’t have any issues IF you use aftermarket B-series mounts from a reputable company. You could potentially have issues IF using the factory mounts from the donor car. B16 engines are shorter than B18 motors so you honestly need to just sit the engine in the car and find out if using the stock mounts (EF9 I assume?) B-series alternator can clear but you will need to take a hammer to the frame rail in order to make some room. You can try and source a DA9 (90-93 Integra) complete alternator and bracket and that might get you a little more clearance back there but you’ll still likely have to bash the frame rail in slightly. Another thing to note (seems like you might live across the pond) if you find that you have clearance issues, you could. 1. Use spacers (cheapest way) 2. Find a ZC hood 3. Sir front end conversion

@ thanks for the quick response, I’m trying to avoid hitting my frame rail in since I’ve just painted my engine bay. I have been told to use d alternator to avoid the clearance issue (I’ll experiment when the motors in) I did try to fit the motor in the car lastnight but couldn’t get the gear box to clear past the gearbox body mount. I’m using a ys1 lsd which I thought was the best fit as the casing is smaller than the hydros. I’ll have another crack at it tonight but yes if I can get it in I might be able to try the si hood or some hood spacers. Sir front would be nice but I’d probably be best just to wait the 2months for hasport mounts to get delivered. Thank you for your help 🙏

@ The problem with the d-series alternator AFAIK is only one bolt will mount up so you only will have one bolt holding on your alternator. As far as the back mount is concerned. It’s definitely easiest to mount the bracket into the car first and tighten up the bolt that goes to the subframe mount. Then shoehorn the motor in there and line up the bracket to the transmission. YS1 is no smaller than a hydro transmission as USDM “RS/LS/GS” Integras also have YS1 hydro transmissions. You can swap all gear sets and diffs between the two cases. Also quite sure the USDM Si hoods are the same as any other crx/NON-Si hood so not sure you’ll be gaining any extra room there. You might look into the DA (90-93) Integra alternator and bracket. They are slightly smaller than the 94+ integra setup. But there is some work involved. You would also need the DA power steering line.

@@mk5rob42 maybe at very high boost levels. So far my IAT have been around 65-68 (which is 10 degrees over ambient) after many pulls. It should be ok for now. At least I hope so haha.

@Knownworldwide if you plan to throw 30psi or more, I think it will heatsoak. But it should be ok between 15-20psi....

@ damn! This motor ain’t ready for all that yet. Right not I’m gonna creep up on 15psi and see how it will hold up. Pretty sure this tiny turbo won’t even be efficient at that boost level. Appreciate you taking the time to even watch the video.

@@johnquinn3700 Hey thanks again! When you saw me, I was actually still on the stock Honda injectors. I was just too excited to drive the car check for leaks and such I just hooked up the stock computer and injectors and pulled it out! Currently making my own wiring patch harness for the stand alone and then I can toss in the WRX injectors.

Got the wrx injectors installed. Working great! 11psi now. Thanks again!

@@JamesAnderson-fw5ew what do you mean? You are using the stock feed line to feed the rail. Unless you’re running your own feed line.

@@edgarmendez253 You can hit me on IG. Knownworld_wide

@@takito3775 I had to search around the internet to see what the factory fuel pressure regulator was set at. There were a few different “ideas” out there but I eventually landed on approx. 37-38psi. I confirmed this by driving around and idling a fair amount to make sure the fuel trims were acceptable (not perfect) to me. This worked just fine for me and gave me no issues. As far as under boost. It can also vary depending on what you are trying to accomplish however generally starting around 43-44psi is just fine. There really is no need to go higher than that since the regulator is a 1:1 rising rate and will increase in pressure as the boost rises.

@@takito3775 Also, thanks for watching! Hope you decide to stick around.

@ I appreciate you posting your build and how you did all the work! It def helps to see it done by someone else. I will try that pressure once I order my fpr. I also had one more question, how did you attach a vacuum line to it? did you tap into the manifold or somewhere else? Is there an easier way? Thanks!

@ Yep, just used a capped of vacuum port that is near the front of the intake manifold.

@@BrodyCormier it’s probably not going to run right but you could try to use either upstream (before the CATS) O2 sensor.