I’m sorry this has happened to you! Thank you though for putting up a video showing how easy it can be to mess things up even when you think you have everything in hand and ready to go. I was just about to do my clutch on my fxsho and now I think I’ll take it to brissy to get done and pony up the extra for them to do it.
My torque wrench only clicks in the right hand direction. It was a left handed thread. I didn’t realise and was waiting for the click. I ended up way overnighting the bolt while also having the locking tool in the wrong spot allowing the engine to turn backwards. As it was doing this the timing chain tensioner lost tension and the chain skipped a couple of teeth. Swiss cheese model, including my incompetence.
So mine starts fine out of the water, and in the water once warm it struggles to turn over after using . Once running, firing on all cylinders it runs fine. could the timing be off and then it corrects itself once running? is that a thing? I did not stop the engine from spinning when removing or torquing the bolt and im pretty sure I over torqued it.
Just did this job yesterday. It was quite intuitive and no issues presented. No extra steps are needed to ensure the timing remains set. Just replace each bolt one at a time. Oil doesn’t need to be drained either. Just tilt the ski upwards.
First time I did my supercharger clutch I lost top dead center on 1st and 4th cylinder I had to use a wooden dowel and the starter to find it the reason I lost it was because I didn’t use a screwdriver to help the timing chain tensioner and as soon as I started the ski lost top dead 🤦♂️ took me two tries to get it right IT SUCKED 🤣
So just a recap… you’re saying because the clutch tool rotated slightly when tightening, that it has thrown the timing out? My understanding is that the clutch has no bearing on the timing as the chains not connected to clutch? Was it when you changed the cam chain tensioner?
You’re right and wrong 😜 I over torqued the clutch bolt because I didn’t realise my torque wrench didn’t work backwards and the clutch bolt is a left handed thread. The bolt goes into the front of the motor so as I was tightening it with too much force I spun the motor backwards which slackened off the timing chain tensioner and allowed it to jump a tooth or too as it spun backwards. Or that’s the theory anyway.
@droneusphotography no nothing bent thankfully, compression test was good and runs like a top now it’s retimed. It never fired and caught up while on the starter at a slow speed.
@@JebbreysJibberish if it's out of time, would it become aback in time on its own? mine sounds like yours occasionally but if I give it a little gas it fixes itself and then run smooths until next restart
Any update on your ski? I made the exact same mistake with a Chinese torque wrench. Mine did not lockup but burned up the new clutch in 30 minutes of riding and now makes chirp noise like intermittent metal on metal.
@@JebbreysJibberish I got mine back together and I think I decreased the chirping noise a little bit. I'm not an expert on skis or a mechanic but I've done my share of fixing and modifying my own skis. I never found a definitive answer to my problem more like a theory. When I pulled the supercharger off, the idle gear did not spin freely in the direction it should spin free. I pulled it all apart and found that the idle gear is binding a bit on the clutch gear. The pin does not slide perfectly into the 2nd hole in the block. I have to give a bit of extra effort to fit into the 2nd hole. Here's my theory. The block is aluminum so when I over cranked on clutch bolt and the holder tool was against the thin part of the block I must have pulled that first hole ever so slightly out of alignment causing the idle gear to bind up. I tried to heat the block a small amount and move it back but I'm not sure if I really did any thing. I also cleaned up the pin by putting it in my drill press and using a green scratch pad to smooth out some rough spots. I watched you crank on your bolt and I think you tightened it more than I did so, if my theory is correct, your ski might be further out of alignment. If I were you I would remove the supercharger, so fairly easy 4 bolts, and try to spin the idle gear. If it's rough going you probably have the same problem as I do. One other possibility is that when you put the pin back in to where it stopped it wasn't all the way in because it's out of alignment. At this point it would spin freely, leading you to believe everything was fine, but once you tighten the oil pump on it would likely force the pin all the way in and then bind up. In the end I'm going to run it for a while with the chirping to see if the new clutch gear wears down a bit to mesh with the idle gear. During this time I will avoid excessive throttling down because I fear that the slight binding will slow down the supercharger too fast and break the shaft. I hope my update helps you out.
Wow someone who finally gave me an alternative answer as to what might have happened! This is very interesting! Now when I’ve had the charger off (twice now) the idle gear seems to have spun super freely and I don’t remember the pin being difficult to put in… but it was a while ago. Like you say, maybe when the oil pump cover was out on it might have tightened it up. I don’t think that’s what’s stopping the engine turning over though as I tried to turn it over with the new clutch out altogether and it was still seized. But this might be a secondary problem even if I sort out what’s causing it to be locked up 😳
@@JebbreysJibberish I think I have finally figured out what my problem was and as much as I think it's implausible I cannot find any other reason to explain my situation and maybe yours as well. I pulled my motor out for another issue and I notice while turning the crank it had a tight spot. If I pulled the idle gear off there was no tight spot. Conclusion, the crank is bent, and therefore creates a hard-to-turn spot at the high point against the idle gear. The several times that I checked it while the motor was in the ski I wasn't at the high spot so the idle gear spun freely. My assumption is that over tightening the bolt on the clutch must have bent the shaft. That makes no sense to me but it's the only explanation I have and it fits with all the other issues with the clutch and supercharger I had. Since my motor was out of the ski I tested the shaft and it clearly was bent but not much. I beat it straight with a 3 lb. hammer using a straight piece of steel... hitting on an old scrap clutch - just the center small part.
Yeah, runs fine. Compression check was good. Been running it hard all summer with no dramas. Thankfully it only turned over on the starter with a low battery before it locked up.
Bugger. Before go pulling the engine apart, check that the starter motor is not loose and also check that the prop is not locked up to the west ring because the west ring can get corrosion under the surface and swell and bind on the prop.
Yes he new clutch is perfectly fine and fits no problem. The problem was I didn’t have the clutch tool in the correct place when tightening and it spun the crank backwards jumping a few teeth on the timing chain. Totally rookie error in my part. Cams were removed and timing reset and I’ve put about 10 hours on it so far with no problems.
I would say you are on the money with saying that the timing chain has jumped a couple of teeth. Take the spark plugs out and maybe the cams if you're up for it. This will close all the valve. There should be a timing chain tensioner on the side of the engine that you'll have to remove along with the chain. The bottom end should be able to turn over. There should be timing marks on the chain and the sprockets.
Hi was anything bent or broken or did it just get out of timing? mine starts fine on the land and most of the time on the water, however accosonially it doest start and sounds like yours. any ideas?
@@JebbreysJibberish that's great news . I am rebuilding a 2019 GP1800R at the moment , it looks like water got into the engine. I bought it not running & have stripped the engine down , the starter was free spinning due to the one way clutch ( similar to the supercharger one you are spinning ) was rusted and not gripping the flywheel.
@@JebbreysJibberish if it was just the starter clutch that needed replacing it wouldn't of been a big job , but after getting the engine out I realised the engine was a little tight to turn over , so I stripped the engine down.
Thankfully I got it sorted but the cams had to come out and the timing chain retimed. I had a friend help me out with some cash his way. No shops wanted to touch it.
@@JebbreysJibberish I gave this a lot of thought as this gear is not involved with anything timing wise I think when you turned the crank the wrong way it loosened the timing chain probably jumping a link when tightening back up??? is this what you found?
@@JebbreysJibberish timing chains are easy, after watching your video you’re more than qualified to complete the repair. There are some good videos showing the easy to find timing marks on the svho. Just remember to put cylinder 1 at top dead center. Wish I could help!
Wow, ok. Gotta admit my mechanical confidence was knocked after making that noonish mistake in the first place… maybe I’ll watch a few videos and see what I think. Thank you! I wish you could help too 🤣
Take the Super Charger off and spin the gear and see how it feels. I had one skit where the gear was binging up. As you may know there are two idle gears you can get, do double check that.
I’m sorry this has happened to you! Thank you though for putting up a video showing how easy it can be to mess things up even when you think you have everything in hand and ready to go. I was just about to do my clutch on my fxsho and now I think I’ll take it to brissy to get done and pony up the extra for them to do it.
Well yeah, it’s definitely cost me more than paying someone to do it and have had the ski out of action for 9 months and counting :-(
@@JebbreysJibberish what was the cause?
My torque wrench only clicks in the right hand direction. It was a left handed thread. I didn’t realise and was waiting for the click. I ended up way overnighting the bolt while also having the locking tool in the wrong spot allowing the engine to turn backwards. As it was doing this the timing chain tensioner lost tension and the chain skipped a couple of teeth. Swiss cheese model, including my incompetence.
So mine starts fine out of the water, and in the water once warm it struggles to turn over after using . Once running, firing on all cylinders it runs fine. could the timing be off and then it corrects itself once running? is that a thing? I did not stop the engine from spinning when removing or torquing the bolt and im pretty sure I over torqued it.
I’m not 100% but am pretty sure that if you jumped a Roth on the timing chain it wouldn’t run. But I might be wrong.
Just did this job yesterday. It was quite intuitive and no issues presented. No extra steps are needed to ensure the timing remains set. Just replace each bolt one at a time. Oil doesn’t need to be drained either. Just tilt the ski upwards.
First time I did my supercharger clutch I lost top dead center on 1st and 4th cylinder I had to use a wooden dowel and the starter to find it the reason I lost it was because I didn’t use a screwdriver to help the timing chain tensioner and as soon as I started the ski lost top dead 🤦♂️ took me two tries to get it right IT SUCKED 🤣
So just a recap… you’re saying because the clutch tool rotated slightly when tightening, that it has thrown the timing out? My understanding is that the clutch has no bearing on the timing as the chains not connected to clutch? Was it when you changed the cam chain tensioner?
You’re right and wrong 😜 I over torqued the clutch bolt because I didn’t realise my torque wrench didn’t work backwards and the clutch bolt is a left handed thread. The bolt goes into the front of the motor so as I was tightening it with too much force I spun the motor backwards which slackened off the timing chain tensioner and allowed it to jump a tooth or too as it spun backwards. Or that’s the theory anyway.
nothing was bent?
@@JebbreysJibberish
@droneusphotography no nothing bent thankfully, compression test was good and runs like a top now it’s retimed. It never fired and caught up while on the starter at a slow speed.
@@JebbreysJibberish if it's out of time, would it become aback in time on its own? mine sounds like yours occasionally but if I give it a little gas it fixes itself and then run smooths until next restart
What are the torques for the bolts that hold the supercharger to the block?
Thanks for the vid, I’m fixing to replace clutch on mine, do I need to remove all engine oil?
I tilted the ski back a bit and that stopped the oil running out of the oil pump housing. Put some rags down in place as well just in case.
Any update on your ski? I made the exact same mistake with a Chinese torque wrench. Mine did not lockup but burned up the new clutch in 30 minutes of riding and now makes chirp noise like intermittent metal on metal.
Dang that’s not good either! No update yet. It’s winter here in Australia so it’s sitting there while I save some money to get it looked at.
@@JebbreysJibberish I got mine back together and I think I decreased the chirping noise a little bit. I'm not an expert on skis or a mechanic but I've done my share of fixing and modifying my own skis. I never found a definitive answer to my problem more like a theory. When I pulled the supercharger off, the idle gear did not spin freely in the direction it should spin free. I pulled it all apart and found that the idle gear is binding a bit on the clutch gear. The pin does not slide perfectly into the 2nd hole in the block. I have to give a bit of extra effort to fit into the 2nd hole. Here's my theory. The block is aluminum so when I over cranked on clutch bolt and the holder tool was against the thin part of the block I must have pulled that first hole ever so slightly out of alignment causing the idle gear to bind up. I tried to heat the block a small amount and move it back but I'm not sure if I really did any thing. I also cleaned up the pin by putting it in my drill press and using a green scratch pad to smooth out some rough spots. I watched you crank on your bolt and I think you tightened it more than I did so, if my theory is correct, your ski might be further out of alignment. If I were you I would remove the supercharger, so fairly easy 4 bolts, and try to spin the idle gear. If it's rough going you probably have the same problem as I do. One other possibility is that when you put the pin back in to where it stopped it wasn't all the way in because it's out of alignment. At this point it would spin freely, leading you to believe everything was fine, but once you tighten the oil pump on it would likely force the pin all the way in and then bind up.
In the end I'm going to run it for a while with the chirping to see if the new clutch gear wears down a bit to mesh with the idle gear. During this time I will avoid excessive throttling down because I fear that the slight binding will slow down the supercharger too fast and break the shaft.
I hope my update helps you out.
Wow someone who finally gave me an alternative answer as to what might have happened! This is very interesting! Now when I’ve had the charger off (twice now) the idle gear seems to have spun super freely and I don’t remember the pin being difficult to put in… but it was a while ago. Like you say, maybe when the oil pump cover was out on it might have tightened it up. I don’t think that’s what’s stopping the engine turning over though as I tried to turn it over with the new clutch out altogether and it was still seized. But this might be a secondary problem even if I sort out what’s causing it to be locked up 😳
@@JebbreysJibberish I think I have finally figured out what my problem was and as much as I think it's implausible I cannot find any other reason to explain my situation and maybe yours as well. I pulled my motor out for another issue and I notice while turning the crank it had a tight spot. If I pulled the idle gear off there was no tight spot. Conclusion, the crank is bent, and therefore creates a hard-to-turn spot at the high point against the idle gear. The several times that I checked it while the motor was in the ski I wasn't at the high spot so the idle gear spun freely. My assumption is that over tightening the bolt on the clutch must have bent the shaft. That makes no sense to me but it's the only explanation I have and it fits with all the other issues with the clutch and supercharger I had. Since my motor was out of the ski I tested the shaft and it clearly was bent but not much. I beat it straight with a 3 lb. hammer using a straight piece of steel... hitting on an old scrap clutch - just the center small part.
Wow that’s crazy! Mine was my timing chain had jumped some teeth with me reefing too hard on it. Cams out and retimed and it’s all good.
any update?
Not yet. Trying to save money to get a professional to look at it. Going to be $$& though 😫
Were you able to fix it mate?
Yeah had to remove both cams and re-time the engine. All good now!
Were the valves, pistons and crank shaft ok?
Yeah, runs fine. Compression check was good. Been running it hard all summer with no dramas. Thankfully it only turned over on the starter with a low battery before it locked up.
Thanks for that mate! and thanks for uploading the videos, I am having the same issue now, so i will try to do the timing chain and see how it goes.
Bugger. Before go pulling the engine apart, check that the starter motor is not loose and also check that the prop is not locked up to the west ring because the west ring can get corrosion under the surface and swell and bind on the prop.
What was the final outcome? And did the new (different year) clutch work?
Yes he new clutch is perfectly fine and fits no problem. The problem was I didn’t have the clutch tool in the correct place when tightening and it spun the crank backwards jumping a few teeth on the timing chain. Totally rookie error in my part. Cams were removed and timing reset and I’ve put about 10 hours on it so far with no problems.
So where is the correct place to keep the tool to not skip teeth?
@MattHousman there is a bolt head that you are supposed to lock the hole in the tool to near the top of the motor.
I would say you are on the money with saying that the timing chain has jumped a couple of teeth. Take the spark plugs out and maybe the cams if you're up for it. This will close all the valve. There should be a timing chain tensioner on the side of the engine that you'll have to remove along with the chain. The bottom end should be able to turn over. There should be timing marks on the chain and the sprockets.
Thank you, I’m a bit nervous to pull the cams out myself. It’s getting a bit deeper into the engine than I’m used to working…
Hi was anything bent or broken or did it just get out of timing? mine starts fine on the land and most of the time on the water, however accosonially it doest start and sounds like yours. any ideas?
No nothing bent as it locked up on the starter before it fired.
Sorry yeah no idea what your issues is… sounds strange. Maybe loose starter motor, check that.
Shit happens , you learn from your mistakes.
Was it a couple of bent valves ?
Thankfully it never fired so the engine was retimed and all is good. Had to remove both cams and the chain.
@@JebbreysJibberish that's great news .
I am rebuilding a 2019 GP1800R at the moment , it looks like water got into the engine. I bought it not running & have stripped the engine down , the starter was free spinning due to the one way clutch ( similar to the supercharger one you are spinning ) was rusted and not gripping the flywheel.
Wow I didnt even realise they had a starter clutch. Sounds like a big job!
@@JebbreysJibberish if it was just the starter clutch that needed replacing it wouldn't of been a big job , but after getting the engine out I realised the engine was a little tight to turn over , so I stripped the engine down.
3 hours and it's done, old one out new one in with plugs.
This is an invaluable video/ lesson for ALL us DYI's I feel you should set up a Go Fund me and let us help you out! Great video!!
Thankfully I got it sorted but the cams had to come out and the timing chain retimed. I had a friend help me out with some cash his way. No shops wanted to touch it.
@@JebbreysJibberish I gave this a lot of thought as this gear is not involved with anything timing wise I think when you turned the crank the wrong way it loosened the timing chain probably jumping a link when tightening back up??? is this what you found?
@michaelyarmas4423 yep spot on.
Yup, jumped a tooth going backwards.
That’s what I think. Still saving to get someone to look at it, I’m a bit out of my depth with timing chains.
@@JebbreysJibberish timing chains are easy, after watching your video you’re more than qualified to complete the repair. There are some good videos showing the easy to find timing marks on the svho. Just remember to put cylinder 1 at top dead center. Wish I could help!
Wow, ok. Gotta admit my mechanical confidence was knocked after making that noonish mistake in the first place… maybe I’ll watch a few videos and see what I think. Thank you! I wish you could help too 🤣
Take the Super Charger off and spin the gear and see how it feels. I had one skit where the gear was binging up. As you may know there are two idle gears you can get, do double check that.
Has jumped a tooth or two on the timing chain. Came out and retimed got it going.
uh oh
So sorry for its happened to you. It’s a good d… video you make, thank you so much. ❤
Dont ya just hate that.
Sure do! 😪