Another tip. Make sure to stop after the first 15-20 miles and check your straps. You may find they need a few more cranks after everything has had a chance to stretch and settle.
Very good point. Was on the way to the track before sun-up years ago cruising along an empty freeway when someone finally pulled up alongside me pointing to the back of my truck. Turns out things had come loose, busted through my bed extender, and were dragging along the freeway for who knows how long. Everything was tangled up in the tiedowns. Sparks must've been flying for miles based on how badly my bike stands and other stuff were ground down. Still don't really know what happened.
@greenrush4313 I really don't know. At the time, I was club racing all over and doing track days. So I was hitting the track all the time. My truck would be completely packed with things like a gas can, Easy-Up, big old fan, generator, tire warmers, cooler, etc. So, any number of things could have shifted and caused the stuff to crash through the bed extender and hang off the back. Only happened once.
As someone whose also done this an inordinate amount of times, I'd recommend two points. First, spread those ramps out slightly. If the bike tips right, it's going down. If it tips left, your body is in the way. So give a little extra leeway on the right. Second, warm that baby up and feel out the clutch before using the friction zone to load it. Some bike feel vastly different when warm and that's when most of us are used to operating the clutch.
The wheel chock and canyon dancers are a complete waste of money. Position scrap pieces of wood before loading the bike. Push bike all the way forward, then kick/wedge one piece behind front tire. Place the other under kickstand to keep bike more upright and to protect the truck bed. Then use endless ratchet straps wrapping the webbing around the bottom of the forks at the axle on both sides. 2" endless straps are what I prefer. Way more stable than canyon dancers with no load on bike's suspension. Front wheel will not move side to side whatsoever. A rear strap is unnecessary. But I do use two more straps around the axle at both sides of the swingarm in cade one of the front straps miraculously fails. If you're anal about your truck, use a block of wood behind the cab and a small piece of plywood over the tailgate to protect from dents. Can also get away with one ramp and use a chair, cooler, bucket, etc. for a step in and out of the truck. When unloading bike, make sure the bike's in gear. Use BOTH the front brake and clutch to best control the bike and avoid skidding.
I'd recommend NOT using the brake to lower it. You should, of course, still strap the ramps but leave the bike off, in gear, and use the friction zone of the clutch to lower it. If you've ever backed a dirt bike down a hill, that's how you do it. Better to have the rear tire holding the bike than the front.
Always use two separate straps at the rear of the bike with soft ties as well, much safer and secure than a loop through the wheel. You can leave the tranny in first gear to make it less likely the wheel would spin if you don't have two rear straps but from experience USE TWO SEPERATE STRAPS
I think you need TankStraps also the best way to transport a bike is by strapping to each of the forks so there isn't any sprung load, this will allow the bike to use it's own suspension while in transit.
...good "how to" video...!!! If one does not have access to a truck but one does have a receiver hitch on a SUV/car/etc....U-haul has a very inexpensive motorcycle trailer with chock and ramp....it is great to use too.
Compressing the suspension (slowly) DOES NOT pressurize the hydraulic oil. The only thing holding resistance against the ratchet straps is the spring. No risk of blowing seals by compressing the forks. I'd recommend compressing it more to avoid excess movement like Chase mentioned at 17:21
I’m 70 years old and load my KTM 790 Adventure R by myself on flat ground. I use 2 ramps that don’t have holes, with non-slip tape the entire length; one for the bike and one for me to walk up. I also have non-slip tape in the truck bed. I start the engine and warm it up, so it doesn’t stall easily, then I let the bike do the work, as I walk up the ramp next to it on the left side; it’s critical to not let the bike lean too much from vertical, especially away from you, and to not do it too fast. Your results may vary.
Good video! Done this a million times over the last 2 decades with my now ancient 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 (stock but very tall). I use 3 long folding ramps - 2 thin and 1 a bit wider I bought from Discount Ramps. Each slightly arched to counter the length needed to handle the height of my truck bed. This enables me to ride the bike up with both feet on ramps, one on each side. Makes going down a breeze, too. Tying down the ramps in the truck bed during transport is important to address too. Also, l've always kept my bikes in neutral once tied down securely. Probably OK not to, but I do so to avoid any unnecessary stress on the power train.
I got 3 folding ramps that are 10' long and 1' wide or so each. They all attach together with a rod that goes down the middle. Cost was $500 but makes a nerve racking experience a piece of cake. Your method looks very nice as well. You are right the key is to reduce that angle by doing what you showed or getting longer ramps.
@FairLady Zed Cycle Gear sells two versions from Trackside. I would recommend getting the wider version and getting 2 of them. They are made out of aluminum and are inexpensive. Have someone help you load a bike. It will be extremely nerve-racking the first few times. The more hands that can help you the safer the bike will be.
@@jonasrueda4195 Two of the wide ones are only $100 less than the 3 piece one I mentioned. The trackside ones are only 8' too where the 3 piece blackwidow is 10'. Makes a big difference. And the 3 ramps connect together so they can not come apart in the middle of loading.
the way I load it up the ramp by myself is I back my truck up the either a high curb or a steep hill so it's almost like I'm not even pushing the bike up the ramp. that way I can just leave it in neutral and don't have to worry about using the bike to push itself up anything👍
6:05 lol in my case we usually go to my buddies house and use his front yard. Here in SWFL houses are very elevated off so he has a drop on his front yard by the driveway for the water to flow better to the sewer and prevent flooding. Its so smooth!
Instead of putting a strap around the rear tire and rubbing the paint off, I like to either run a strap through the opening of the frame or swing arm that are not painted or straps coming off the foot pegs, or even the spools used for a bike stand.
I moved a Sportster cross country using U-haul pickup with a front chock. A small Cargo strap from each chock lug and another on the forks just over the hub. I did put one across the back through the wheel but it’s chrome and didn’t worry about rubbing paint. Was solid as a Rock.
Don’t use a bucket to step on! Very easy for it to tip over as you step and have lateral force exerted on the bucket. Use a proper step or a fat/heavy cooler that won’t tip. Or a wide ramp you can walk up with the bike.
Having just bought a bike and will be loading it on to my trailer to get a safety, I found this video is priceless and just awesome. I am going to buy those special straps that I never knew existed. The ones for the handle bars and that little mini ratchet strap or what ever it is called. I Like things simple and easy,.
when I bought my used CBR500R, there were stress cracks in the paint on the clip-ons from the previous owner attaching straps to the bars and tightening them too much, thankfully the dealer provided new bars for free, but unfortunately about a year later my fork seals started leaking and I had to have them replaced.
When I was going through this procedure fairly frequently, I had the good fortune to have vacant lot close by with a gradually increasing berm next to the wide street. I was able to find the spot on the berm with the correct height and back the tailgate in and drive straight into the back of my truck. At the other end of the trip, I had my two ramps plus a brother-in-law (who was also a motorcycle rider) to assist. It also helps if you have enough help available to push the bike rather than using the engine.
Check your owners manual before using canyon dancers. I have a 2021 Ducati Monster 937+ and the owners manual says to not strap around the handle bars. Check your owners manual to be sure for your particular bike.
OC! Good stuff Chase. I also like the Canyon Dancer and used it all the time on my Ninja, but it doesn't work on my Triumph with bar end mirrors, or my Panigale with the brake lever guard. So I use the Pro Taper tie downs which have a soft strap integrated into it - works perfectly! I also prefer the Pro Taper straps to the ratchet/Rhino type because there is less risk of over-ratcheting - as you mentioned you can blow your fork seals, etc. Love your channel man!
if the truck has a trailer hitch you could rent a motorcycle trailer from u-haul for $15. The rented trailer already has ratchet straps, wheel chock, and sits nice and low so loading is so much safer. It is nice to own your own gear especially if you cart a dirt bike around, but for bringing a road bike to the shop the trailer option is so much more affordable, and u-haul will store it for you between uses.
I do almost the same with my HD softail. To get a better angle i drive my truck on a curb! It adds 4-5 inches of height to the front. You have to leave a gap in the ramps HD chain cases are really wide. Because HD are heavy i put a jackstand under the ramp hinge on the ramp in the center to put a safety on the ramp bending!
The bike looks badness in the back of a nice truck.... but I prefer a big van so know one knows my motorcycle is inside. Easy to load, basically a mini motorcycle garage 😂
I welded two 1/4 bolts through my ramps there they rest on the tailgate and have a few holes strategically drilled in my tailgate for my bike and I or my quad. This has the added effect of my friends not borrowing my ramps and not returning them.
If you can’t find an incline on the pavement and have to load on flat ground what I came up with to avoid bike from bottoming out on the top of the ramp is ….. I took a 12” piece of 2x4 and screwed a strip of 1”x1” strip of wood along the center of the bottom of the 2x4 so it fits in the gap where the bottom of the tailgate meets the bed of the truck , when the front wheel goes over the 2x4 as your driving the bike into the bed of the truck it lifts it up just high enough to avoid the bike from bottoming out , if it so happens that your bikes rear tire will sit on that 2x4 when it’s fully loaded in, just stop after your front tire has gone over it and take your left foot and kick that 12” piece of 2x4 to the right ( which is what I have to do with my bike )…. It works like a charm !
I like the video overall but I have two critiques. After loading my sportbike solo more than two hundred times using a cooler as a stand I finally dropped it when the cooler tipped under me. It has given me PTSD and now I use a second ramp to walk it up. Second, the rear bike strap is to stop the rear bike from hopping up if your hit a bumb. To stop the rearward motion use the chock lock and put it in gear.
That amount of tension on the straps makes me very nervous. If you're using a wheel chock, it's probably fine, but I've had a bike fall over in the back of my truck before with such little tension. If you've ridden in the rain, you can usually see on the bike how far the forks compress while riding, I tension my straps to compress the same amount. Then on the back I put a strap on each pillion foot peg, sit on the pillion and tension the straps until the rear spring compresses just a little bit more. That method never failed me. I've since started adding a wheel chock with a 5th strap exactly as in the video. I understand why people don't like the idea of compressing the fork, but the alternative is strapping around the fork at the axel and that seems even worse to me - you have to get the straps extremely tight to stop the bike from tipping over. Also if you're in NW Ohio like me and the nearest hill is 200 miles away, you can get 11 ft. long tri-folding ramps that also double as a bed extender. They're a bit expensive, but well worth it.
Been loading my bike for decades with a single ramp and a 2 step stool. Although I do have a 4X4 so I usually park at the bottom of my driveway to lessen the angle. I run the engine like he did and walk it up.
I used to ride my DRZ400 up a pair of curved ramps into the bed of my Tundra and quite often had a friend ride his up next to it.. Never had a problem.
Not bad. Installing a cleat for the rear wheel would be smart too. Something that allows you to lock it down tight. With the straps you had, over bumps, it will still hop and the straps will get lose over time. The tailgate will move and is not a good support. Having a track that runs from the front, to the rear would add stability. If tailgate is open when driving, you have to fly a flag to caution drivers behind you. In addition to self-tightening straps, use some rigid devices and again, two wheel anchors. Put a strap over the top of the seat that puts downward pressure on the bike too. Use a blanket or something under it and something non-slip.
Went from a BRZ to a brand new F-150 because my wife wants to plan for kids. I am also getting my motorcycle license and bike next week. I didn’t know I could get so much use out of a truck until I started stumbling on videos like this.
One important note; A strap is only as secure as it can be because of friction, don't yank all the slack and ratchet it down one round, get as much strap in the roll as possible. More friction = less slip = less chance of bike go bye bye!
OC: Excellent tutorial for anyone hauling their bike for the first time. Also Pat is a easy bribe 🍕 🍻 Chase likely didn't even have to pay for gas for the truck.
A cheap way to transport a street bike is load into truck, position bike diagonal in bed front tire toward passenger side if long enough to be able to close gate which keeps back still, lock bars with bike on kickstand, ratchet strap it down
if you dont have a front wheel chock you really need much more fork compression. the first time you hit a bump the straps will get slack in them and the bike will move.
I would stil be paranoid and tighten the front a little more lol. Plus add some straps to the passanger pegs and compress the rear suspension a little bit. But as I said, juts because I would be paranoid.
You should add a disclaimer to not use canyon dancers or any handlebar tie down on clip ons, clip ons have a weak spot so they snap in a crash, you can snap the clip ons if you hit a big bump
Not sure why you need a front wheel choke....or ratchets.....just run the wheel upto the the bulkhead of the bed.....use strong nylon rope.....and learn how to do a trucker hitch to tighten it. If it were me....I would put the ramp you walk up further away to the side.....looks to close. Also attached the straps to a higher point on the bike.....lot more stable. I am a life long truck driver....so secured all sorts.
My brother in law used cheap harbor freight ratchet straps that look very much like the ones in the vid. One of the straps snapped and his bike tumbled off the trailer on the freeway. Luckily only the bike was damaged and he had full coverage.
Using a single cab truck wojld be even better instead of using a dual cab truck because there would be a longer space to put the Bike into & You could even be able to close the tailgate as well giving You added protection & stopping the back of the Bike from slioping out of the back of the truck.
18:31 you forgot your ramps bra. Fold your ramps together, stack them beside the bike with a strap ran through both of them and to the low points of the bed so they don't fly out of the back of the truck bed.
Those ramps look scetchy. Spend the money on a good ramp system. I got mine from black widow ramps for 400 bucks. A little pricey but I have plenty of room to walk next to my bike or ride it up with room for both feet on the ramp. It's long enough that you don't have a steep angle. It even breaks down small enough to throw in the back of the truck with your bike.
Different scenario I know but, I've loaded 250cc dirt bikes in the bed of my truck many times with just a small ditch and a 2x10 about 6ft long. Of course a 600cc+ bike is a very different story.
One slip and you have more than paid fot a wide ramp you can ride up. Better yet buy a motorcycle trailer anx share it with a friend. You can easily right a bike off with slip of the clutch espeshly if its wet.
Another tip. Make sure to stop after the first 15-20 miles and check your straps. You may find they need a few more cranks after everything has had a chance to stretch and settle.
Very good point. Was on the way to the track before sun-up years ago cruising along an empty freeway when someone finally pulled up alongside me pointing to the back of my truck. Turns out things had come loose, busted through my bed extender, and were dragging along the freeway for who knows how long. Everything was tangled up in the tiedowns. Sparks must've been flying for miles based on how badly my bike stands and other stuff were ground down. Still don't really know what happened.
Why??That sounds ridiculous-geez.
@greenrush4313 I really don't know. At the time, I was club racing all over and doing track days. So I was hitting the track all the time. My truck would be completely packed with things like a gas can, Easy-Up, big old fan, generator, tire warmers, cooler, etc. So, any number of things could have shifted and caused the stuff to crash through the bed extender and hang off the back. Only happened once.
As a flatbed truck driver I approve and very much so recommend this comment
@@Shakysugar Me too. That's how I learned this rule.
As someone whose also done this an inordinate amount of times, I'd recommend two points. First, spread those ramps out slightly. If the bike tips right, it's going down. If it tips left, your body is in the way. So give a little extra leeway on the right. Second, warm that baby up and feel out the clutch before using the friction zone to load it. Some bike feel vastly different when warm and that's when most of us are used to operating the clutch.
This right here is sage advice. My Ducati is completely different cold, warm, and hot.
Now show the process of taking it down pls
Just watch it in reverse.
The wheel chock and canyon dancers are a complete waste of money. Position scrap pieces of wood before loading the bike. Push bike all the way forward, then kick/wedge one piece behind front tire. Place the other under kickstand to keep bike more upright and to protect the truck bed. Then use endless ratchet straps wrapping the webbing around the bottom of the forks at the axle on both sides. 2" endless straps are what I prefer. Way more stable than canyon dancers with no load on bike's suspension. Front wheel will not move side to side whatsoever. A rear strap is unnecessary. But I do use two more straps around the axle at both sides of the swingarm in cade one of the front straps miraculously fails. If you're anal about your truck, use a block of wood behind the cab and a small piece of plywood over the tailgate to protect from dents. Can also get away with one ramp and use a chair, cooler, bucket, etc. for a step in and out of the truck. When unloading bike, make sure the bike's in gear. Use BOTH the front brake and clutch to best control the bike and avoid skidding.
I'd recommend NOT using the brake to lower it. You should, of course, still strap the ramps but leave the bike off, in gear, and use the friction zone of the clutch to lower it. If you've ever backed a dirt bike down a hill, that's how you do it. Better to have the rear tire holding the bike than the front.
Make sure you put the gear in reverse..😂
@@stevenjackson5541o
Always use two separate straps at the rear of the bike with soft ties as well, much safer and secure than a loop through the wheel. You can leave the tranny in first gear to make it less likely the wheel would spin if you don't have two rear straps but from experience USE TWO SEPERATE STRAPS
I am 74 and I have been riding and hauling Motorcycles for 60+ years You Sir are the Best I totally agree with your methods and routine. Great Video
I still remember when you strapped my WBR bike to the back of my truck! Pretty good job! Made it from ATL to Miami without problem! You are the man!
Doing this soon....perfect timing. Sold my trailer. Thanks Chase
I think you need TankStraps also the best way to transport a bike is by strapping to each of the forks so there isn't any sprung load, this will allow the bike to use it's own suspension while in transit.
And keep from blowing out your fork seals as I have done by strapping the bike down too tight.
...good "how to" video...!!! If one does not have access to a truck but one does have a receiver hitch on a SUV/car/etc....U-haul has a very inexpensive motorcycle trailer with chock and ramp....it is great to use too.
Once you go with a trailer you never look back.
If you have a trailer, you better be looking back constantly 😂
Compressing the suspension (slowly) DOES NOT pressurize the hydraulic oil. The only thing holding resistance against the ratchet straps is the spring. No risk of blowing seals by compressing the forks. I'd recommend compressing it more to avoid excess movement like Chase mentioned at 17:21
I’m 70 years old and load my KTM 790 Adventure R by myself on flat ground. I use 2 ramps that don’t have holes, with non-slip tape the entire length; one for the bike and one for me to walk up. I also have non-slip tape in the truck bed. I start the engine and warm it up, so it doesn’t stall easily, then I let the bike do the work, as I walk up the ramp next to it on the left side; it’s critical to not let the bike lean too much from vertical, especially away from you, and to not do it too fast. Your results may vary.
All good tips. I 2nd the "geography" tip. Use a hill any time you can. My F800GSA is 500+ lbs and I sweat every time I load the bike in the truck.
Great video. Two ramps are the key, separated slightly to suit your position with the bike. Taking her off is equally anxiety filled.
Good video! Done this a million times over the last 2 decades with my now ancient 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4
(stock but very tall).
I use 3 long folding ramps -
2 thin and 1 a bit wider I bought from Discount Ramps. Each slightly arched to counter the length needed to handle the height of my truck bed. This enables me to ride the bike up with both feet on ramps, one on each side. Makes going down a breeze, too.
Tying down the ramps in the truck bed during transport is important to address too.
Also, l've always kept my bikes in neutral once tied down securely. Probably OK not to, but I do so to avoid any unnecessary stress on the power train.
I got 3 folding ramps that are 10' long and 1' wide or so each. They all attach together with a rod that goes down the middle. Cost was $500 but makes a nerve racking experience a piece of cake. Your method looks very nice as well. You are right the key is to reduce that angle by doing what you showed or getting longer ramps.
What kind did you get? This shit makes me nervous as well lol
@@fairladyzed Black widow aluminum 10' 3-Piece Arched Folding Motorcycle Ramp 👍
@FairLady Zed Cycle Gear sells two versions from Trackside. I would recommend getting the wider version and getting 2 of them. They are made out of aluminum and are inexpensive. Have someone help you load a bike. It will be extremely nerve-racking the first few times. The more hands that can help you the safer the bike will be.
@@jonasrueda4195 Two of the wide ones are only $100 less than the 3 piece one I mentioned. The trackside ones are only 8' too where the 3 piece blackwidow is 10'. Makes a big difference. And the 3 ramps connect together so they can not come apart in the middle of loading.
Damn only just got a bike, now I need a truck to move it around. Expensive hobby 😂 great tips though.
I did it in the reverse order, now I need ramps and sh!t
the way I load it up the ramp by myself is I back my truck up the either a high curb or a steep hill so it's almost like I'm not even pushing the bike up the ramp. that way I can just leave it in neutral and don't have to worry about using the bike to push itself up anything👍
I dont know if i missed it in the video or not but maybe tie off any of the loose straps on the ratchet end if youre not using the fancy stuff.
Funny timing I was wondering if I should use my truck to pick up the new bike 😅
Uhaul motorcycle trailers rentals are a cheap and awesome alternative to a truck bed if you’re going to be ending up back where you started
I push the front forks from above and only crank to get the tension I got from pushing down and has always been enough.
6:05 lol in my case we usually go to my buddies house and use his front yard. Here in SWFL houses are very elevated off so he has a drop on his front yard by the driveway for the water to flow better to the sewer and prevent flooding. Its so smooth!
Instead of putting a strap around the rear tire and rubbing the paint off, I like to either run a strap through the opening of the frame or swing arm that are not painted or straps coming off the foot pegs, or even the spools used for a bike stand.
I moved a Sportster cross country using U-haul pickup with a front chock. A small Cargo strap from each chock lug and another on the forks just over the hub. I did put one across the back through the wheel but it’s chrome and didn’t worry about rubbing paint. Was solid as a Rock.
Don’t use a bucket to step on! Very easy for it to tip over as you step and have lateral force exerted on the bucket.
Use a proper step or a fat/heavy cooler that won’t tip.
Or a wide ramp you can walk up with the bike.
Having just bought a bike and will be loading it on to my trailer to get a safety, I found this video is priceless and just awesome. I am going to buy those special straps that I never knew existed. The ones for the handle bars and that little mini ratchet strap or what ever it is called. I Like things simple and easy,.
Should have watched this 1st. Tried to winch my cruiser up into my truck. Didn't go well. Thanks for the video.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Your time if couldn’t have been better!
when I bought my used CBR500R, there were stress cracks in the paint on the clip-ons from the previous owner attaching straps to the bars and tightening them too much, thankfully the dealer provided new bars for free, but unfortunately about a year later my fork seals started leaking and I had to have them replaced.
When I was going through this procedure fairly frequently, I had the good fortune to have vacant lot close by with a gradually increasing berm next to the wide street. I was able to find the spot on the berm with the correct height and back the tailgate in and drive straight into the back of my truck. At the other end of the trip, I had my two ramps plus a brother-in-law (who was also a motorcycle rider) to assist. It also helps if you have enough help available to push the bike rather than using the engine.
Check your owners manual before using canyon dancers. I have a 2021 Ducati Monster 937+ and the owners manual says to not strap around the handle bars. Check your owners manual to be sure for your particular bike.
OC! Good stuff Chase. I also like the Canyon Dancer and used it all the time on my Ninja, but it doesn't work on my Triumph with bar end mirrors, or my Panigale with the brake lever guard. So I use the Pro Taper tie downs which have a soft strap integrated into it - works perfectly! I also prefer the Pro Taper straps to the ratchet/Rhino type because there is less risk of over-ratcheting - as you mentioned you can blow your fork seals, etc. Love your channel man!
if the truck has a trailer hitch you could rent a motorcycle trailer from u-haul for $15. The rented trailer already has ratchet straps, wheel chock, and sits nice and low so loading is so much safer. It is nice to own your own gear especially if you cart a dirt bike around, but for bringing a road bike to the shop the trailer option is so much more affordable, and u-haul will store it for you between uses.
Good tips. Personally I use a small trailer with a pretty low bed. Use the same procedure as you do, only the low bed makes it a bit easier.
Build a ramp, power wheelie off the ramp onto the truck, problem solved 👍🏻 everything else is a problem for after the results of the first step.
I do almost the same with my HD softail. To get a better angle i drive my truck on a curb! It adds 4-5 inches of height to the front. You have to leave a gap in the ramps HD chain cases are really wide. Because HD are heavy i put a jackstand under the ramp hinge on the ramp in the center to put a safety on the ramp bending!
Uhaul motorcycle trailer for $15 for the day. Don’t need to buy a ramp. Just have 3 straps and $15 and you’re good to go!
The bike looks badness in the back of a nice truck.... but I prefer a big van so know one knows my motorcycle is inside. Easy to load, basically a mini motorcycle garage 😂
I welded two 1/4 bolts through my ramps there they rest on the tailgate and have a few holes strategically drilled in my tailgate for my bike and I or my quad. This has the added effect of my friends not borrowing my ramps and not returning them.
If you can’t find an incline on the pavement and have to load on flat ground what I came up with to avoid bike from bottoming out on the top of the ramp is ….. I took a 12” piece of 2x4 and screwed a strip of 1”x1” strip of wood along the center of the bottom of the 2x4 so it fits in the gap where the bottom of the tailgate meets the bed of the truck , when the front wheel goes over the 2x4 as your driving the bike into the bed of the truck it lifts it up just high enough to avoid the bike from bottoming out , if it so happens that your bikes rear tire will sit on that 2x4 when it’s fully loaded in, just stop after your front tire has gone over it and take your left foot and kick that 12” piece of 2x4 to the right ( which is what I have to do with my bike )…. It works like a charm !
Very comprehensive and informative. Best video I have found, covering everything. Many thanks.
I like the video overall but I have two critiques. After loading my sportbike solo more than two hundred times using a cooler as a stand I finally dropped it when the cooler tipped under me. It has given me PTSD and now I use a second ramp to walk it up. Second, the rear bike strap is to stop the rear bike from hopping up if your hit a bumb. To stop the rearward motion use the chock lock and put it in gear.
Great video! I've seeing a couple of accidents w/ folks too confident and not precautious at all. Costly mistakes...
That amount of tension on the straps makes me very nervous. If you're using a wheel chock, it's probably fine, but I've had a bike fall over in the back of my truck before with such little tension. If you've ridden in the rain, you can usually see on the bike how far the forks compress while riding, I tension my straps to compress the same amount. Then on the back I put a strap on each pillion foot peg, sit on the pillion and tension the straps until the rear spring compresses just a little bit more. That method never failed me. I've since started adding a wheel chock with a 5th strap exactly as in the video. I understand why people don't like the idea of compressing the fork, but the alternative is strapping around the fork at the axel and that seems even worse to me - you have to get the straps extremely tight to stop the bike from tipping over.
Also if you're in NW Ohio like me and the nearest hill is 200 miles away, you can get 11 ft. long tri-folding ramps that also double as a bed extender. They're a bit expensive, but well worth it.
Been loading my bike for decades with a single ramp and a 2 step stool. Although I do have a 4X4 so I usually park at the bottom of my driveway to lessen the angle. I run the engine like he did and walk it up.
A Uhaul motorcycle trailer rents daily for about $20. Really great option if you don't have ramps, wheel chock, etc.. (and have the option).
I used to ride my DRZ400 up a pair of curved ramps into the bed of my Tundra and quite often had a friend ride his up next to it.. Never had a problem.
It’s 11 o’clock at night why???
Not bad. Installing a cleat for the rear wheel would be smart too. Something that allows you to lock it down tight. With the straps you had, over bumps, it will still hop and the straps will get lose over time. The tailgate will move and is not a good support. Having a track that runs from the front, to the rear would add stability. If tailgate is open when driving, you have to fly a flag to caution drivers behind you. In addition to self-tightening straps, use some rigid devices and again, two wheel anchors. Put a strap over the top of the seat that puts downward pressure on the bike too. Use a blanket or something under it and something non-slip.
Why not strap around the bottom of the forks to avoid compressing the front?
Went from a BRZ to a brand new F-150 because my wife wants to plan for kids. I am also getting my motorcycle license and bike next week. I didn’t know I could get so much use out of a truck until I started stumbling on videos like this.
I have a set of arced ramps with tie down looped onto each that stay on ramps great video
That is an excellent way to load no doubt, but I've always road my up. 14 plus bikes never had an issue.
I would recommend getting wider ramps. CycleGear sells wide aluminum ramps that are light and inexpensive.
One important note; A strap is only as secure as it can be because of friction, don't yank all the slack and ratchet it down one round, get as much strap in the roll as possible. More friction = less slip = less chance of bike go bye bye!
"we have geography" 😂 yes! I've been preaching this for loading forever 👍😎
OC: Excellent tutorial for anyone hauling their bike for the first time. Also Pat is a easy bribe 🍕 🍻 Chase likely didn't even have to pay for gas for the truck.
OC: pizza and beer. The universal payment
A cheap way to transport a street bike is load into truck, position bike diagonal in bed front tire toward passenger side if long enough to be able to close gate which keeps back still, lock bars with bike on kickstand, ratchet strap it down
if you dont have a front wheel chock you really need much more fork compression. the first time you hit a bump the straps will get slack in them and the bike will move.
I would stil be paranoid and tighten the front a little more lol. Plus add some straps to the passanger pegs and compress the rear suspension a little bit. But as I said, juts because I would be paranoid.
Thank you..this was very informative. I feel i can do it myself now just by watching it one time.
You should add a disclaimer to not use canyon dancers or any handlebar tie down on clip ons, clip ons have a weak spot so they snap in a crash, you can snap the clip ons if you hit a big bump
Not sure why you need a front wheel choke....or ratchets.....just run the wheel upto the the bulkhead of the bed.....use strong nylon rope.....and learn how to do a trucker hitch to tighten it.
If it were me....I would put the ramp you walk up further away to the side.....looks to close.
Also attached the straps to a higher point on the bike.....lot more stable.
I am a life long truck driver....so secured all sorts.
My brother in law used cheap harbor freight ratchet straps that look very much like the ones in the vid. One of the straps snapped and his bike tumbled off the trailer on the freeway. Luckily only the bike was damaged and he had full coverage.
I use two in the back off the passenger pegs instead of a single wrapped around the back tire.
Do you keep the bike in 1st gear to lock the rear wheel in addition to the rear orange strap?
Great throttle control.
6:55 Notice the hill in the background. No ramp required.
Back up to a hill and problem solved.
too many trees on too loose of a surface for a sport bike. Would probably work great for a dirt bike though.
Main thing is you gotta keep it well-balanced as there's no room to step to the side.
One can never be too safe folks👍❤️
1:43: I don't think that guy needs any more pizza and beer! Excellent video, though.
Very solid tutorial, thanks!
NEVER use handlebars to tie down a bike! Always use the the lower fork clamps.
Using a single cab truck wojld be even better instead of using a dual cab truck because there would be a longer space to put the Bike into & You could even be able to close the tailgate as well giving You added protection & stopping the back of the Bike from slioping out of the back of the truck.
18:31 you forgot your ramps bra. Fold your ramps together, stack them beside the bike with a strap ran through both of them and to the low points of the bed so they don't fly out of the back of the truck bed.
Yep. Putting them in the back seat will drive you nuts. So loud.
Those ramps look scetchy. Spend the money on a good ramp system. I got mine from black widow ramps for 400 bucks. A little pricey but I have plenty of room to walk next to my bike or ride it up with room for both feet on the ramp. It's long enough that you don't have a steep angle. It even breaks down small enough to throw in the back of the truck with your bike.
Different scenario I know but, I've loaded 250cc dirt bikes in the bed of my truck many times with just a small ditch and a 2x10 about 6ft long. Of course a 600cc+ bike is a very different story.
I mostly backed my truck into a ditch, then drove my motorcycle via the tailgate onto the truck box. It is less risky, and quick.
Solid advice I learned all this stuff on my own
One slip and you have more than paid fot a wide ramp you can ride up. Better yet buy a motorcycle trailer anx share it with a friend. You can easily right a bike off with slip of the clutch espeshly if its wet.
I use two straps on the passenger pegs to secure the bike from swaying
I have one of those handlebar harness and it’s so handy
Why not use the passenger peg mounts for the rear straps ?
He removed it from his bike. I always use my passenger peg mounts for strapping it down.
U should of used the K-5 spliiter system. Im not sure why you didnt do it. Wow!!!!!!!
Good, sooner, or later, everyone needs to do this.
Man, Holly brings me back. That was about a decade ago, huh? Time flies when you OC
No need for crayon dancer. Attach stap to mirror and let it ride. Friend lay his bike on side, on towel, no scratch, and no need strap...
You’re amazing man! oC
Do not use ratchet straps...unless your heading to your local suspension shop.
Such a beautiful bike
Do you just drive with the tailgate down afterwards?
Why would you not use the height of the sidewalk to make the ramp more level?
Great tips
Is it safe to roll an R6 into an F-150 gate. Ive seen videos where they remove it. Thanks.
wont the straps scratch the paint off the rear wheel?
I bought all the equipment in this video so I can do this myself. Now I just need a truck and a bike.
Personally I would strap to the forks
How long is that truck bed?? I have a GSXR 1000 what size bed would I need??
I mean... assuming the ramp is rated high enough, nothing's stopping one just riding up :P