They are the best sharpeners I've ever used! I also like the KUM Longpoint Sharpener with replacement blades for use when traveling or sketching out of the studio. Video for that one here: th-cam.com/video/wjoX0nnpFk8/w-d-xo.html
I didn't realize it until I started teaching 1 on 1- then when I saw 25 individuals break their pencil leads week after week, I started to figure out ways to avoid that common problem! :)
I agree with Renzo about the title of this video - very misleading. Incidentally, while I agree 100% about some cheap plastic sharpeners, I have been using a 'cheap little metal pencil sharpener' like the one in your video for many years, and it's still going strong, even after sharpening however many needed it from 24 sets of 24 pencils used at each of our two kids' clubs each week for roughly four years, and in general use at home for even longer. .I can't remember the brand, but it was probably a WHS standard school pencil sharpener. I agree that it'd be really good if we could actually buy replacement blades, though - it would do wonders for the environment in terms of waste!
@@Lzmstudio I think that while there are a lot of very poor 'children's' pencil sharpeners out there - the coloured plastic type - a metal sharpener's a different story. Most of them will work well for years, probably because the metal holds its shape and holds the blade securely in place.
@@MrsBarnabas I find the blade tends to break soft graphite too easily however. And I think it shaved the wood away in a rougher texture than the helical blade sharpeners which matters if you don’t want to keep scuffing the paper with a rough wood edge when shading. But to each their own! We can’t help that we like what we like!😀
Timeless information. I really want to get this Exacto to suction onto my oak veneer ancient desk when I get it. I'll be experimenting with it's base and if successful, I'll report back!
I used a sample of a plastic based piece of flooring C-clamped to the table at my videographer's studio. A piece of plexiglass clamped on would work really well. It's the best sharpener! I have started to enjoy this one, too, which I'm surprised by as I have never liked electric sharpeners, but the point is almost as good as the Xacto and it's a fast sharpen when I'm in a rush: th-cam.com/video/gmN20r7aCcU/w-d-xo.html
William Parmley it is less simple with those softer drawing pencils that tend to break so easily! The harder pencils are tough and can be man-handled without problems though!
I work with a lot of tweens, so they aren't usually as mindful about a pencil sharpener eating up a pencil, which is why I don't use an electric sharpener in the studio. Also, higher # B pencils (3B-12B) are so fragile that I'm not sure if an electric sharpener would break them more easily (since I don't use an electric one myself)? Those softer pencils do break more easily in a crank sharpener. Thanks for watching and your question!
I’ve seen several folks here on TH-cam that sharpen their pencils with a knife and expose a lot of lead (about an inch or so), does this has any benefit?
It makes you feel like you're getting the most out of your health insurance when you accidentally stab yourself in the leg while sharpening your pencil? Just kidding... I work with so many people who have such heavy pressure and need to learn to press less hard. It would maybe help in that exercise (or frustrate people if it constantly breaks). I have never used a pencil like this and haven't found it necessary... so I can't really speak to the real benefits. Worth a try? I think people just like whittling and slowing down to sharpen...
I use a blade to expose roughly 1cm (~1/2") for some of my pencils. I find I experience several benefits: - the point can be made as sharp as you like it. - I experience far fewer breakages, - I'm not constrained by the geometry of either the pencil or the sharpener (I own rectangular pencils). - I may decide to profile a pencil either as a cone (standard sharpening), a hoof (one flat), a chisel (two flats), or a parabolic cone in order to facilitate various shading or patterning effects. - Other than the initial sharpening you don't remove graphite, just the wood. The graphite is kept sharp by the way you use it. For round cross sections you rotate the pencil as you use it, for flats you just use the flat. - The parabolic cone (by virtue of the geometry) is excellent for laying down large areas of even tone, and is self sharpening when doing so, an advantage in reduced sharpening frequency and smoother [unblended] shading. The point remains very sharp for when you need stark transitions in value. - As mentioned in the video rotational sharpening places torque on the graphite and the bond, which if not taken into consideration leads to crumbly graphite an even fractures. The technique shown in the video seeks to ameliorate this through frequent strain relief. - rotational sharpeners can leave a ridge on the graphite (if you don't take pains to eliminate it) that if pronounced may leave a little gap (in effect two contact points) or even catch the paper (scratchy sensation when shading, more pronounced with harder grades). - I'm never too far away from a sharp blade. If, on the other hand, you are also working towards nurturing the drawing skills of young children then the method for sharpening pencils that is safest, has the least potential for mess, and requires the least dexterity (the one shown in this video) is the one most desirable (I would, from experience, however recommend supervision lest the 3yo becomes inspired to transform dozens of brand new pencils into shavings [1]). 1. Barely salvageable as [very inconsistent] graphite powder.
Thanks for telling me about it. The amazon reviews are good, but the xacto sharpener can be purchased at my local store for $6 at back to school times! Not sure why I'd want to spend 4x more for another sharpener when this one has worked for years? Maybe if it doesn't suction to the table as students take a while to figure that out. Or to take to a classroom where the xacto can't suction to the tables. I'll think about it!
@@Lzmstudio the mitsubishi kh20 does not need to mount/suction mount to the table. Instead, you pull the front plate out, squeeze the two black knobs together and put the pencil in , and then you have to hold the sharpener firmly, and to show that you have finished sharpening is when the sharpener goes quiet and the crank turns freely
Yes, it looked similar to the even more expensive one by Caran D'ache that seems to have a weighted base. Thanks for the suggestion as if I ever wanted one without the suction base, it is a much cheaper alternative to the Caran D'ache one!
There are cheaper alternatives to the KH-20. A good one i have is the Derwent Super Point Mini Manual Pencil Sharpener : $17.19 on Amazon I've seen some even cheaper sharpeners like the Dahle 133 : $11 on Amazon, which has a small knob on the crank which can adjust the sharpness of the pencil tip when sharpener, similar to the small orange button on the KH20's crank which adjusts the sharpness of the pencil tip. Also, the Deli 0635 : $12.50 on Amazon
No but I've never had a blade get dull. I have had the plastic housing break (once irreparably, another time reparable with crazy glue). They've lasted daily use by 5+ people for years and years!
Darryl Foster I have never known the helical sharpeners to dull their blades. My guess is it might take decades or high humidity/lack of use and then they’d just need oil. Graphite is slightly oily so when in constant use it never gets rusted. I think it’s a safe expense. And I’m always going to repair mine vs get a new one if possible!
Very wise! I recently bought a Mitsubishi KH20 - much better than even the best hand held sharpeners. That said, the hand held ones are useful for sharpening when the pencil is too short for a mechanical sharpener - especially when I use a pencil extender. Great videos, by the way!
Hmm, I don't use an eyebrow pencil so I don't know for certain. But I'm guessing they are soooo soft that they just break in sharpeners because of the oil based medium they are. I know that eyeliners are so soft that they just crush in pencil sharpeners. So my guess is, nope, this won't help in the eyebrow pencil department?
Re-name your video "How to Sharpen a Pencil Correctly using a Commercial Pencil Sharpener" so people won't think that you are using a single edge razor blade.
Andrew Garfield at back to school time these are at Walmart for $6! They last years and years. On Amazon or office supply stores they are usually $11-13. Well worth the investment!
weird, I thought I replied to your idea? I use the paperclip because it "turns the corner" in the tight space at the tip of the sharpening barrel that has a piece of plastic at the end (blocking a straight thing like a toothpick from getting in there)... plus a toothpick could break, causing a jam in the sharpener in another way. So paperclip = guaranteed success!
@@Lzmstudio It may not be the case for your sharpener, but for mine (Lyra) I can usually dislodge a broken point by orientating the entry hole towards the ground (over the trash can) and cranking the handle in reverse.
Andre Artus yes! That sometimes works. But sometimes students don’t realize their lead has broken off in there and they keep adding pressure in an attempt to sharpen so the lead gets really jammed in tight! Then a tool is needed to dislodge it.
@@Lzmstudio Don't get me wrong, I'm not above pulling out a length of wire to dislodge a recalcitrant point, it's just that, for me, it's the second last resort (before stripping down the whole mechanism). It's rare, but not unknown, for me to get a point so stubbornly lodged that the reverse crank does not work, but I'm a slow and smooth cranker and I have only 2 kids to concern myself with and they are taught, "if it feels like you have to force it, you are probably doing something wrong".
Actually, it's never been lead. That term comes from metal points of lead used in the Middle Ages. But it is still commonly understood that the "lead" is the center of the pencil. So it isn't incorrect to call it that!
I just saw the difference in my last sketch just by following this routine, I'm a beginner so this was very helpful, thank you
I love that! Thank you so much for sharing 🤩
thanks for the video , i just bought one of these sharpeners of amazon uk and its brilliant , sharpens the pencil to a nice point .
They are the best sharpeners I've ever used! I also like the KUM Longpoint Sharpener with replacement blades for use when traveling or sketching out of the studio. Video for that one here: th-cam.com/video/wjoX0nnpFk8/w-d-xo.html
Who knew there was a correct way to use these? Thanks.
I didn't realize it until I started teaching 1 on 1- then when I saw 25 individuals break their pencil leads week after week, I started to figure out ways to avoid that common problem! :)
Very helpful, clear and informative
Thanks so much- hope this helps you keep those pencils from breaking!
I agree with Renzo about the title of this video - very misleading. Incidentally, while I agree 100% about some cheap plastic sharpeners, I have been using a 'cheap little metal pencil sharpener' like the one in your video for many years, and it's still going strong, even after sharpening however many needed it from 24 sets of 24 pencils used at each of our two kids' clubs each week for roughly four years, and in general use at home for even longer. .I can't remember the brand, but it was probably a WHS standard school pencil sharpener.
I agree that it'd be really good if we could actually buy replacement blades, though - it would do wonders for the environment in terms of waste!
I can’t even get a good sharpening in the first ten sharpenings from those style pencil sharpeners so your news is surprising! Thanks for watching!
@@Lzmstudio I think that while there are a lot of very poor 'children's' pencil sharpeners out there - the coloured plastic type - a metal sharpener's a different story. Most of them will work well for years, probably because the metal holds its shape and holds the blade securely in place.
@@MrsBarnabas I find the blade tends to break soft graphite too easily however. And I think it shaved the wood away in a rougher texture than the helical blade sharpeners which matters if you don’t want to keep scuffing the paper with a rough wood edge when shading. But to each their own! We can’t help that we like what we like!😀
This was really helpful. Thank You!
That is good to hear. Thanks!
Timeless information. I really want to get this Exacto to suction onto my oak veneer ancient desk when I get it. I'll be experimenting with it's base and if successful, I'll report back!
I used a sample of a plastic based piece of flooring C-clamped to the table at my videographer's studio. A piece of plexiglass clamped on would work really well. It's the best sharpener! I have started to enjoy this one, too, which I'm surprised by as I have never liked electric sharpeners, but the point is almost as good as the Xacto and it's a fast sharpen when I'm in a rush: th-cam.com/video/gmN20r7aCcU/w-d-xo.html
I been using the Derwent hand crank sharpener it's been good.
I'll need to check that one out. I hope to someday visit the Derwent factory/museum!
Interesting and helpful, thanks!
Glad it was helpful, thank you for watching!
@@Lzmstudio You introduced issues that I never knew existed with such a "simple" task. Hard to believe that nice sharpener is only $10. Thanks again!
William Parmley it is less simple with those softer drawing pencils that tend to break so easily! The harder pencils are tough and can be man-handled without problems though!
thanks i've watched that one to so i may get at a later date .
I prefer electric pencil sharpeners for my normal pencils. Any reason not to use them for art pencils also?
I work with a lot of tweens, so they aren't usually as mindful about a pencil sharpener eating up a pencil, which is why I don't use an electric sharpener in the studio. Also, higher # B pencils (3B-12B) are so fragile that I'm not sure if an electric sharpener would break them more easily (since I don't use an electric one myself)? Those softer pencils do break more easily in a crank sharpener. Thanks for watching and your question!
thanks for sharing !!!!
You're welcome! It should help you save more lead if you don't break it as much- it does for me!
I’ve seen several folks here on TH-cam that sharpen their pencils with a knife and expose a lot of lead (about an inch or so), does this has any benefit?
It makes you feel like you're getting the most out of your health insurance when you accidentally stab yourself in the leg while sharpening your pencil? Just kidding... I work with so many people who have such heavy pressure and need to learn to press less hard. It would maybe help in that exercise (or frustrate people if it constantly breaks). I have never used a pencil like this and haven't found it necessary... so I can't really speak to the real benefits. Worth a try? I think people just like whittling and slowing down to sharpen...
I use a blade to expose roughly 1cm (~1/2") for some of my pencils.
I find I experience several benefits:
- the point can be made as sharp as you like it.
- I experience far fewer breakages,
- I'm not constrained by the geometry of either the pencil or the sharpener (I own rectangular pencils).
- I may decide to profile a pencil either as a cone (standard sharpening), a hoof (one flat), a chisel (two flats), or a parabolic cone in order to facilitate various shading or patterning effects.
- Other than the initial sharpening you don't remove graphite, just the wood. The graphite is kept sharp by the way you use it. For round cross sections you rotate the pencil as you use it, for flats you just use the flat.
- The parabolic cone (by virtue of the geometry) is excellent for laying down large areas of even tone, and is self sharpening when doing so, an advantage in reduced sharpening frequency and smoother [unblended] shading. The point remains very sharp for when you need stark transitions in value.
- As mentioned in the video rotational sharpening places torque on the graphite and the bond, which if not taken into consideration leads to crumbly graphite an even fractures. The technique shown in the video seeks to ameliorate this through frequent strain relief.
- rotational sharpeners can leave a ridge on the graphite (if you don't take pains to eliminate it) that if pronounced may leave a little gap (in effect two contact points) or even catch the paper (scratchy sensation when shading, more pronounced with harder grades).
- I'm never too far away from a sharp blade.
If, on the other hand, you are also working towards nurturing the drawing skills of young children then the method for sharpening pencils that is safest, has the least potential for mess, and requires the least dexterity (the one shown in this video) is the one most desirable (I would, from experience, however recommend supervision lest the 3yo becomes inspired to transform dozens of brand new pencils into shavings [1]).
1. Barely salvageable as [very inconsistent] graphite powder.
Another pencil sharpener is the Mitsubishi KH-20 available on Amazon. Runs for about $25
Thanks for telling me about it. The amazon reviews are good, but the xacto sharpener can be purchased at my local store for $6 at back to school times! Not sure why I'd want to spend 4x more for another sharpener when this one has worked for years? Maybe if it doesn't suction to the table as students take a while to figure that out. Or to take to a classroom where the xacto can't suction to the tables. I'll think about it!
@@Lzmstudio the mitsubishi kh20 does not need to mount/suction mount to the table. Instead, you pull the front plate out, squeeze the two black knobs together and put the pencil in , and then you have to hold the sharpener firmly, and to show that you have finished sharpening is when the sharpener goes quiet and the crank turns freely
Yes, it looked similar to the even more expensive one by Caran D'ache that seems to have a weighted base. Thanks for the suggestion as if I ever wanted one without the suction base, it is a much cheaper alternative to the Caran D'ache one!
There are cheaper alternatives to the KH-20. A good one i have is the Derwent Super Point Mini Manual Pencil Sharpener : $17.19 on Amazon
I've seen some even cheaper sharpeners like the Dahle 133 : $11 on Amazon, which has a small knob on the crank which can adjust the sharpness of the pencil tip when sharpener, similar to the small orange button on the KH20's crank which adjusts the sharpness of the pencil tip.
Also, the Deli 0635 : $12.50 on Amazon
@@somehumanbeing4018 all interesting options, thanks!
Are the blades replacable?
No but I've never had a blade get dull. I have had the plastic housing break (once irreparably, another time reparable with crazy glue). They've lasted daily use by 5+ people for years and years!
Thanks. I suppose that at such a modest price it would be acceptable to just buy another when the blades wore down.
Darryl Foster I have never known the helical sharpeners to dull their blades. My guess is it might take decades or high humidity/lack of use and then they’d just need oil. Graphite is slightly oily so when in constant use it never gets rusted. I think it’s a safe expense. And I’m always going to repair mine vs get a new one if possible!
Very wise! I recently bought a Mitsubishi KH20 - much better than even the best hand held sharpeners. That said, the hand held ones are useful for sharpening when the pencil is too short for a mechanical sharpener - especially when I use a pencil extender. Great videos, by the way!
Does this work for eyebrow pencils ?
Hmm, I don't use an eyebrow pencil so I don't know for certain. But I'm guessing they are soooo soft that they just break in sharpeners because of the oil based medium they are. I know that eyeliners are so soft that they just crush in pencil sharpeners. So my guess is, nope, this won't help in the eyebrow pencil department?
LZM Studio Ah thanks for responding! Makes sense.
Re-name your video
"How to Sharpen a Pencil Correctly using a Commercial Pencil Sharpener"
so people won't think that you are using a single edge razor blade.
Hadn't even thought of that, Renzo. Good distinction. I'll see what I can do.
I always get the cheap horrible sharpeners from like family dollar lol. I hate those. Gonna look into getting one of the ones u have
Andrew Garfield at back to school time these are at Walmart for $6! They last years and years. On Amazon or office supply stores they are usually $11-13. Well worth the investment!
I'd use a toothpick instead of paperclip.
weird, I thought I replied to your idea? I use the paperclip because it "turns the corner" in the tight space at the tip of the sharpening barrel that has a piece of plastic at the end (blocking a straight thing like a toothpick from getting in there)... plus a toothpick could break, causing a jam in the sharpener in another way. So paperclip = guaranteed success!
@@Lzmstudio It may not be the case for your sharpener, but for mine (Lyra) I can usually dislodge a broken point by orientating the entry hole towards the ground (over the trash can) and cranking the handle in reverse.
Andre Artus yes! That sometimes works. But sometimes students don’t realize their lead has broken off in there and they keep adding pressure in an attempt to sharpen so the lead gets really jammed in tight! Then a tool is needed to dislodge it.
@@Lzmstudio Don't get me wrong, I'm not above pulling out a length of wire to dislodge a recalcitrant point, it's just that, for me, it's the second last resort (before stripping down the whole mechanism). It's rare, but not unknown, for me to get a point so stubbornly lodged that the reverse crank does not work, but I'm a slow and smooth cranker and I have only 2 kids to concern myself with and they are taught, "if it feels like you have to force it, you are probably doing something wrong".
what the pencil sharpener feels 💀
???
Stop saying lead! It's not lead anymore 😕
Actually, it's never been lead. That term comes from metal points of lead used in the Middle Ages. But it is still commonly understood that the "lead" is the center of the pencil. So it isn't incorrect to call it that!