Weeeee, my old car has its synchro broken. I loved practicing double clutch and heel-toe techniques when driving it :) Nice tutorial with the visualization!
Although I have the basic understanding of rev matching, but this concept of explanation new to me and its super clear. I believe this will help a lot of us out there trying to understand the concept of rev matching in different gear.
I started practicing rev matching and doing heel toe four years ago and I think I got pretty good. Got a different/new car now and even after a year with it, I'm still sometimes revving a little too high. I'll try to go out and make such a graph to get more precise. Thanks for the video.
It was great to see this in a graphic, and I'm reevaluating the way I shift as a result lol. The best way to learn is just to go out and practice, if it feels like you are hurting the car, you are. But you'll get a feel for it. The way I learned was just in everyday driving, there are two general techniques, and I find myself using both. One is the classic flashy kick the heel out to blip the throttle, the other is perhaps more efficient, and the way I started to learn. Just roll your foot on to the gas with the edge of your foot, that's how most racing drivers do it. It really depends on the size of your pedal box, you'll get a feel for it, and then just practice practice practice.
i always thought rolling the foot and twisting the foot accomplished the same thing, so whilst rolling is not technically heel and toe, that is still what i call it. for my sim racing setup i dont have the angles right, and my leg is not flexible enough to do the full heel and toe, so i half roll and half twist to blip the throttle.
Best explanation ever! *glares at duel clutch paddles* Someday I'll swap you powershift, someday... But not before that beautiful warranty is up!😏 Great video Team O'Neil!
that's actually a pretty good idea... get the most use out of the dual clutch while it's under warranty and then once that time has passed, just swap the more reliable transmission into er having a dual clutch in your car is pretty fun, but whenever you have to replace it... that's where the problems arise
engine braking is great practice for downshifting. it also helps you slow down more predictably (actually helping traffic flow for everybody), saves your brakes in the long run (at the cost of your clutch ofc), saves your brakes in the short run (can save your life in long descents), and keeps you always in the right gear, largely reducing the need for heel-toe, especially useful if you have a really laggy clutch delay valve like my 09 Honda fit that makes shifting in general a crapshoot
depending on how early you release the clutch while doing heel toe you still can use engine braking. which i always thought was a good thing, but upon recent research (googling..) i have found many people saying engine braking has no benefit in a racing scenario. so im not sure anymore.
Omg thank u thank u thank u !!! Best explanation ever !!!! Keep doing what u doing. U r amazing at explaining things simple and to the point and detailed enough ( most videos are very superficial and I couldn't understand how the hell the system functions, I didn't want to rev match just because this is how it is done I wanted to know why and how it works, this video was fantastic !!!) Subscribed 💛💛💛
Wyatt, great videos as always! Always excited to see each one 😎 Question for you: Could you do a video on steering wheels? Best size, style, etc? Also maybe a preview for us with drift experience on what to expect with rally? 😬 Thanks!
Yeah I did the same, I'm assuming they don't bother putting tachs in city cars purely down to cost. Mind you I found this explanation as very useful extra info.
@4:17 RRRMMMBBRRBRRBRR! When I’m riding in my friends car and he coasts into a turn in neutral and then puts it in a gear without rev matching and my heart hurts for his clutch! 😫😆
Hello from Ukraine! Thank you for a great, easy to understand videos, guys! I have a question which I ask myself for a pretty long time, so I will be extremely thankful for an answer. Knowing torque vs RPM graph of my car and gear ratios, how should I calculate a perfect time for upshifts to get up to speed for a minimal amount of time? It's obvious that RPM shoud be a bit higher than a peak. But how much would be optimal? There are moments which drive me crazy like it's better to shift on a higher speed because while you are switching it you will pass a bit greater distance which will turn in seconds after a while.
You need Power chart, not Torque. Make maximum power (the area under the line) in each gear - that's how you get the fastest acceleration. In other words - hit maximum RPM you can because rev limiters usually don't let you go beyond.
The short answer: Shift at red line for every shift. Gear ratios tend to have a larger impact on acceleration than the gains of perfecting the optimal shift based on the car's power band. The long answer: It is complicated and shifting at red line isn't the perfect solution. For a professional racer, they are going to maximize their acceleration based on their car's power band. Typically, Because of the ratio changes for each gear it is more efficient from an acceleration perspective to stay in a lower gear as long as possible before shifting to a higher gear. For example: you will typically accelerate faster at redline in 2nd gear than you would at the bottom of 3rd gear, faster at the red line of 3rd gear than the bottom of 4th gear etc....etc.... There is, however, variation in power output throughout the RPM band, making it feasible that shifting to a higher gear at lower RPM would be better than staying in the same gear and revving higher. Let's say for example that you are in 2nd gear, considering shifting from 2nd to 3rd. If your engine's power falls off above your current RPM in 2nd gear and shifting up to 3rd gear at this moment would put the engine into a lower and more powerful RPM range, it would offer better acceleration than staying in 2nd gear to redline. It all depends on the car's power output through the RPM range. The ideal time to shift is to do so in such a way that you optimize the power output at every moment.
@@Tamarocker88 Thank you for an answer. Actually yeah, I have a diesel car and it's torque drops a lot before it reaches red line. So the long answer is the case I'm facing. Of course gear ratios is the most meaningful part of an equation but there might be something else like some engine/transmission timings or wind drag impact or some other crazy thing which moves optimal shift point a to bit higher or lower RPM than torque and gear ratios equation says.
Please make a video about the difference between rev match with single clutch and double clutch( wheen you don't need to brake, so no heel toe). Which cars need the double clutch, which not, etc...sometimes a rev match just like i would if i was heel and toeing but without brake because i don't need it, and i dont know if its bad for my car.
Is there a rpm indicator that, when in neutral, shows you an rpm target? For your current speed you could have a needle for each of the gears available to you to shift to and then use that rev matching to move your actual rpm to one of those needles. How is that not a thing yet?
It's probably possible to have a pair of gauges, each displaying the target RPM for upshifting or downshifting given current speed. The problem is, what does that really do for the driver? It still comes down to 100% human feel. The driver has to hit the gas with just the right touch to blip into the target range and let the clutch back out at just the right time for a smooth shift. If the driver gives it too much or too little gas or is too slow on the shift/clutch the car will either jolt or the clutch will get a little extra wear from being over the target. Alternatively, the car can have a rev-matching system that handles the rev-match for you. This obviously negates the need for such an RPM target gauge.
I've been hit or miss on my rev matching with my Cadillac ATS 2.0TRWD street driving wise. I've had successful rev matches from 5 to 2 and then I'll have instances where I OVER rev match (excessive revving beyond the intended target rev range) gear depending.
With newer drive-by-wire electronic throttle pedals, sometimes strange things happen... The sensitivity of your throttle pedal is now computer controlled, sometimes there is a bit of lag when you first blip the throttle then you get more than you wanted. If you learn with a throttle cable then go to a newer car like this, there is definitely a learning curve again and each car will be slightly different. Sport Mode usually helps, or if you have a Track Mode or anything that sharpens throttle response.
@@Teamoneilrally Thank you so freaking much for confirming what I suspected! Sometimes when I try to rev match in my 500 Abarth, the throttle gives me much less of a rev than I expect based on the input. I know the car is throttle by wire, so that would explain it! I naturally learned to compensate for the throttle response by briefly flooring the pedal to get the RPM spike I need for a smooth shift.
What do manual drivers who DON'T rev-match do when they need to downshift? Just switch gears and run with a jerky shift, putting undue stress on their drivetrain? I remember being in the car with some seasoned manual drivers who drove smoothly, but I don't remember hearing them blip the throttle whenever they had to downshift. Even if you stay in gear until you're at the bottom of the RPM range for your car, downshifting at that point still isn't smooth because the RPMs still jump higher than they were in the previous gear.
Most drivers downshift then let the clutch out really slowly to avoid the jerkiness, basically slipping the clutch... It's a lot slower way to shift and wears out the friction material on the clutch disc. Matching the RPM lets you shift way faster and easier on the car, it just takes a while before it's natural.
@@Teamoneilrally True! That's how I was taught by my dad to shift. Years later, at a Skip Barber Formula Racing school, I was nearly brought to tears as they tried to teach me heel toe AND double clutching AT THE SAME TIME. Add to that the dynamics of being stuffed into a tiny cockpit with a shifter that required the "T-rex" arm/hand position. It was too much for my little brain to process at once at the time.
@@ragweedmakesmesneeze isnt double clutching just for really old vehicles, or trucks or something? having to push the clutch in, then put it in neutral, release cltuch, push clutch back in, put it in appropriate gear, and release clutch again sounds awfully slow. why would formual one school teach that? forgive me if im ignorant, i dont know much about these things.
@@socks2441 So technically speaking double clutching and rev matching is required of all cars that don't have "syncro" gears. These help match and ease the transition between the main gears. Modern F1 cars are automatics, but most schools start you off in very basic opened-wheel formula cars that have a traditional manual transmission. The reason why they teach you "heel toe downshifting" is that if you were to do a traditional shift in a turn for example, the balance of the car could be upset and throw you off your line. The rev-matched shift keeps everything nice and smooth. The double clutching? Well, for older race car drivers, they do it in the blink of an eye without even thinking. It's one of the many eye opening things that you learn when you go to a race car driving school. How crazy good an actual pro driver is (and how bad we mere mortal are)!
Although the car would stall at low RPM’s shouldn’t all the lines for each gears star at 0 rpm and 0 mph? Even if in practice all the speeds for each gerar below 1.000 rpm or so (depending on the car) might cause it to stall. As long as you take note for a single speed RPM pair for each gear you can plot this chart
i highly suggest you guys buy a used 10spd peterbilt or similar big truck with a big gear box, then teach the drivers how to rev match and down/up shift in one of those. way more forgiving than a race car if ypu fuck it up, (I'm a trucker and a racer by trade)
he didnt mention engine braking. i think i have misunderstood engine braking for a long time due to never having raced a manual transmission irl, and never researched correct technique. i use engine braking while heel tow downshifting. which im guessing i shouldnt. from this it looks like you should downshift to lower rpms. even on the first downshift, not the one you are going to stay in for the corner. i used to think engine braking was beneficial for better braking along with using the actual brakes. for better stability and shorter braking distance. in a way it made sense to me, i mean, when you apply brakes there is no flywheel type momentum to keep the wheels spinning other than their grip on the road, but with engine braking the wheels wont lock up. they cant. they have the engines momentum. so that always sort of made some sort of illogical logic to me. of course you can still cause a slide if your wheels are moving at a different speed to the car due to rpm mismatch. and that for all intents and purposes would be very similar to wheels locking up. i think my incrorect assumption started back as a kid playing forza motorsport 4 with a gamepad and noticing i can brake way better when using manual transmission as opposed to automatic. but that was a mostly arcade game... silly thing to learn anything from. anywho, so is there any benefit to engine braking? like during a downshift while aggressively braking, is there any benefit to releasing the clutch slightly early so there is maybe a 500-100rpm rev mismatch with car speed and engine speed so the engine helps slow the car, or should you always aim for the perfect downshift where you let the clutch out low in a gears rpm range with the blip perfectly at or just above where it will end up. if that makes any sense...?
I have driven manual cars a little bit, but I don't own my own yet. Just curious if it is better to match the rpm with throttle on upshifts as well as downshifts or if the entire process is gas off. Any tips to smooth out my driving and extend clutch life are much appreciated.
@@trykozmaksym the stages arent too long but then add transit and all the other stages done in one day. Service is only 20 minutes long so not enough time to swap or recharge. Furthermore, lithium releases oxygen when ignited causing an even more violent combustion event so big offs could start forest fires.
Not yet, but soon! The range is the biggest problem, it's not just the stages but the transit miles. There isn't enough time in the service breaks to re-charge... The best solution would be to have quick-change batteries and swap them in service, but at least we haven't seen that done successfully yet. Also there's the safety aspect... If you crash an electric car, the rally safety crews aren't educated or equipped to deal with the potential hazards. Yet. It's all very close.
@@danvorobiov The point that begins the line for each gear starts from an estimated theoretical minimum RPM/Speed wherein the gear is usable. Though you are, albeit pedantically, correct in saying that every gear at 0RPM will be at 0MPH, typically it is only 1st gear that is used to start from a dead stop (excluding emergency scenarios). As such, it does not make sense to draw each gear's line starting at 0RPM/0MPH since the only usable gear in this range is 1st gear.
@@Tamarocker88 You right. But it's important to make geometry of drawing right. It will make it easier to understand WHY for those who don't know. That's why I wrote "All lines should starts from one point, from 0".
I must say very easy to understand explaination. That was crystal clear. Great job bro
Delan Henry agreed 100%
That sounded pretty good except for the bro at the end
@@ianholmquist8492 figure of speech man lol
Best explanation on rev matching and heel to toe I’ve seen to date. Thank you.
It seems so natural for you explaining all this stuff! Great work!
Weeeee, my old car has its synchro broken. I loved practicing double clutch and heel-toe techniques when driving it :)
Nice tutorial with the visualization!
Although I have the basic understanding of rev matching,
but this concept of explanation new to me and its super clear. I believe this will help a lot of us out there trying to understand the concept of rev matching in different gear.
i was really struggling to understand those concepts untill i saw this video
thank you so very much
I started practicing rev matching and doing heel toe four years ago and I think I got pretty good. Got a different/new car now and even after a year with it, I'm still sometimes revving a little too high.
I'll try to go out and make such a graph to get more precise. Thanks for the video.
It was great to see this in a graphic, and I'm reevaluating the way I shift as a result lol. The best way to learn is just to go out and practice, if it feels like you are hurting the car, you are. But you'll get a feel for it. The way I learned was just in everyday driving, there are two general techniques, and I find myself using both. One is the classic flashy kick the heel out to blip the throttle, the other is perhaps more efficient, and the way I started to learn. Just roll your foot on to the gas with the edge of your foot, that's how most racing drivers do it. It really depends on the size of your pedal box, you'll get a feel for it, and then just practice practice practice.
i always thought rolling the foot and twisting the foot accomplished the same thing, so whilst rolling is not technically heel and toe, that is still what i call it. for my sim racing setup i dont have the angles right, and my leg is not flexible enough to do the full heel and toe, so i half roll and half twist to blip the throttle.
Wow, clearest instuctions I’ve ever heard. Thanks for making that clear for us! Keep it up
Brilliant video, a very comprehensive explanation
This was one of the better explanations, thank you!
nice explanation, but no power below 2500? you just broke my diesel heart :D
Great video, easy to understand.
THIS is just what I needed: thanks Wyatt!!!
Good stuff as always. I really enjoy these videos, so keep up the good work. I'm your loyal TH-cam fan from Hungary.
Best explanation ever! *glares at duel clutch paddles* Someday I'll swap you powershift, someday... But not before that beautiful warranty is up!😏 Great video Team O'Neil!
Buy a bashed up manual nugget now ;)
@@mart3058 Most definitely shopping for a bargain 6!
that's actually a pretty good idea... get the most use out of the dual clutch while it's under warranty and then once that time has passed, just swap the more reliable transmission into er
having a dual clutch in your car is pretty fun, but whenever you have to replace it... that's where the problems arise
engine braking is great practice for downshifting. it also helps you slow down more predictably (actually helping traffic flow for everybody), saves your brakes in the long run (at the cost of your clutch ofc), saves your brakes in the short run (can save your life in long descents), and keeps you always in the right gear, largely reducing the need for heel-toe, especially useful if you have a really laggy clutch delay valve like my 09 Honda fit that makes shifting in general a crapshoot
depending on how early you release the clutch while doing heel toe you still can use engine braking. which i always thought was a good thing, but upon recent research (googling..) i have found many people saying engine braking has no benefit in a racing scenario. so im not sure anymore.
Omg thank u thank u thank u !!!
Best explanation ever !!!!
Keep doing what u doing. U r amazing at explaining things simple and to the point and detailed enough ( most videos are very superficial and I couldn't understand how the hell the system functions, I didn't want to rev match just because this is how it is done I wanted to know why and how it works, this video was fantastic !!!)
Subscribed 💛💛💛
Wyatt, great videos as always! Always excited to see each one 😎
Question for you:
Could you do a video on steering wheels? Best size, style, etc?
Also maybe a preview for us with drift experience on what to expect with rally? 😬
Thanks!
This was awesome thanks so much! Super clear.
Its just like the graph in gran turismo
After all these years, the graph in GranTurismo finally made sense.
@@the_irate_juan8462 exactly well shit
That was great. Always glad to watch you guys.
Very nice explanations...it would have being so cute if you will upload a video about all these in practice (when in the car), please.
1:14 rotary owners be like hum
Such a great video. Getting back to this often to show clueless ppl 😄
I wish I was 20 years old. I would be there at the rally school in a heart beat.
Really good explanation, thank you.
Well done. Thanks
Awesome video, thanks. I learned a few things and I'm gonna take the measurements and make the graph for my new car. Pip
This is what I needed, great thanks!
Awesome video!!!! I learned a lot!!!!!
Sweetttt!!! I just learned I was mistreating my Evo X :(
Lacking a tach, I learned to do this by ear...
Yeah I did the same, I'm assuming they don't bother putting tachs in city cars purely down to cost. Mind you I found this explanation as very useful extra info.
@4:17 RRRMMMBBRRBRRBRR!
When I’m riding in my friends car and he coasts into a turn in neutral and then puts it in a gear without rev matching and my heart hurts for his clutch! 😫😆
Could we have a video for tips on how to take corners at speed with a normal transfer case and no center diff?
Whoa nice lesson papa
Hello from Ukraine! Thank you for a great, easy to understand videos, guys!
I have a question which I ask myself for a pretty long time, so I will be extremely thankful for an answer. Knowing torque vs RPM graph of my car and gear ratios, how should I calculate a perfect time for upshifts to get up to speed for a minimal amount of time?
It's obvious that RPM shoud be a bit higher than a peak. But how much would be optimal? There are moments which drive me crazy like it's better to shift on a higher speed because while you are switching it you will pass a bit greater distance which will turn in seconds after a while.
You need Power chart, not Torque. Make maximum power (the area under the line) in each gear - that's how you get the fastest acceleration. In other words - hit maximum RPM you can because rev limiters usually don't let you go beyond.
The short answer: Shift at red line for every shift. Gear ratios tend to have a larger impact on acceleration than the gains of perfecting the optimal shift based on the car's power band.
The long answer: It is complicated and shifting at red line isn't the perfect solution. For a professional racer, they are going to maximize their acceleration based on their car's power band. Typically, Because of the ratio changes for each gear it is more efficient from an acceleration perspective to stay in a lower gear as long as possible before shifting to a higher gear. For example: you will typically accelerate faster at redline in 2nd gear than you would at the bottom of 3rd gear, faster at the red line of 3rd gear than the bottom of 4th gear etc....etc.... There is, however, variation in power output throughout the RPM band, making it feasible that shifting to a higher gear at lower RPM would be better than staying in the same gear and revving higher. Let's say for example that you are in 2nd gear, considering shifting from 2nd to 3rd. If your engine's power falls off above your current RPM in 2nd gear and shifting up to 3rd gear at this moment would put the engine into a lower and more powerful RPM range, it would offer better acceleration than staying in 2nd gear to redline. It all depends on the car's power output through the RPM range. The ideal time to shift is to do so in such a way that you optimize the power output at every moment.
@@Tamarocker88 Thank you for an answer. Actually yeah, I have a diesel car and it's torque drops a lot before it reaches red line. So the long answer is the case I'm facing. Of course gear ratios is the most meaningful part of an equation but there might be something else like some engine/transmission timings or wind drag impact or some other crazy thing which moves optimal shift point a to bit higher or lower RPM than torque and gear ratios equation says.
Please make a video about the difference between rev match with single clutch and double clutch( wheen you don't need to brake, so no heel toe). Which cars need the double clutch, which not, etc...sometimes a rev match just like i would if i was heel and toeing but without brake because i don't need it, and i dont know if its bad for my car.
my dude wyatt
Great Video! It would be nice to have a practical example! Didn't understand the part the car was doing 90 and the wheels where doing 50.
Amazing very clear! How do you learn this in practice? Do you remember every gears speed and rpm out of your head?
Great video as always! BTW what is the best way to practice Heel Toe without hurting transmission too much?
Race simulator such as Assetto Corsa or Dirt Rally ...
In everyday driving, just release the clutch very smoothly. After a few days, you'll feel the rev match.
Rental car.
Jordan Bell never seen a rental with manual transmission
@@RacingChaiProbably not in the US, but here in Europe, most rentals are manuals, unless you rent something expensive like a Mercedes S Class
I am using your process for a 300 inline six with a four speed.
its power band is likee 1800 to 3500 or so
Is there a rpm indicator that, when in neutral, shows you an rpm target?
For your current speed you could have a needle for each of the gears available to you to shift to and then use that rev matching to move your actual rpm to one of those needles.
How is that not a thing yet?
It's probably possible to have a pair of gauges, each displaying the target RPM for upshifting or downshifting given current speed. The problem is, what does that really do for the driver? It still comes down to 100% human feel. The driver has to hit the gas with just the right touch to blip into the target range and let the clutch back out at just the right time for a smooth shift.
If the driver gives it too much or too little gas or is too slow on the shift/clutch the car will either jolt or the clutch will get a little extra wear from being over the target.
Alternatively, the car can have a rev-matching system that handles the rev-match for you. This obviously negates the need for such an RPM target gauge.
Hi, is possible making a ideally correct graphic using the car gear ratios values and other numbers given (power, torque)? Thanx in advance
I've been hit or miss on my rev matching with my Cadillac ATS 2.0TRWD street driving wise. I've had successful rev matches from 5 to 2 and then I'll have instances where I OVER rev match (excessive revving beyond the intended target rev range) gear depending.
If you notice it quick enough... back on the clutch.
With newer drive-by-wire electronic throttle pedals, sometimes strange things happen... The sensitivity of your throttle pedal is now computer controlled, sometimes there is a bit of lag when you first blip the throttle then you get more than you wanted. If you learn with a throttle cable then go to a newer car like this, there is definitely a learning curve again and each car will be slightly different. Sport Mode usually helps, or if you have a Track Mode or anything that sharpens throttle response.
@@Teamoneilrally And the sound/feel of the engine, you can count that as a visual also.
@@Teamoneilrally Thank you so freaking much for confirming what I suspected! Sometimes when I try to rev match in my 500 Abarth, the throttle gives me much less of a rev than I expect based on the input. I know the car is throttle by wire, so that would explain it! I naturally learned to compensate for the throttle response by briefly flooring the pedal to get the RPM spike I need for a smooth shift.
What do manual drivers who DON'T rev-match do when they need to downshift? Just switch gears and run with a jerky shift, putting undue stress on their drivetrain? I remember being in the car with some seasoned manual drivers who drove smoothly, but I don't remember hearing them blip the throttle whenever they had to downshift. Even if you stay in gear until you're at the bottom of the RPM range for your car, downshifting at that point still isn't smooth because the RPMs still jump higher than they were in the previous gear.
Most drivers downshift then let the clutch out really slowly to avoid the jerkiness, basically slipping the clutch... It's a lot slower way to shift and wears out the friction material on the clutch disc. Matching the RPM lets you shift way faster and easier on the car, it just takes a while before it's natural.
@@Teamoneilrally True! That's how I was taught by my dad to shift. Years later, at a Skip Barber Formula Racing school, I was nearly brought to tears as they tried to teach me heel toe AND double clutching AT THE SAME TIME. Add to that the dynamics of being stuffed into a tiny cockpit with a shifter that required the "T-rex" arm/hand position. It was too much for my little brain to process at once at the time.
@@ragweedmakesmesneeze isnt double clutching just for really old vehicles, or trucks or something? having to push the clutch in, then put it in neutral, release cltuch, push clutch back in, put it in appropriate gear, and release clutch again sounds awfully slow. why would formual one school teach that? forgive me if im ignorant, i dont know much about these things.
@@socks2441 So technically speaking double clutching and rev matching is required of all cars that don't have "syncro" gears. These help match and ease the transition between the main gears. Modern F1 cars are automatics, but most schools start you off in very basic opened-wheel formula cars that have a traditional manual transmission. The reason why they teach you "heel toe downshifting" is that if you were to do a traditional shift in a turn for example, the balance of the car could be upset and throw you off your line. The rev-matched shift keeps everything nice and smooth. The double clutching? Well, for older race car drivers, they do it in the blink of an eye without even thinking. It's one of the many eye opening things that you learn when you go to a race car driving school. How crazy good an actual pro driver is (and how bad we mere mortal are)!
this graph becomes more '3D' when you take inclines and hills into consideration. right?
no. just your acceleration rates change
1.4k likes, 2 dislikes. Phenomenal. I think the 2 dislikes were from people mad Wyatt doesn't operate an OnlyFans
Although the car would stall at low RPM’s shouldn’t all the lines for each gears star at 0 rpm and 0 mph? Even if in practice all the speeds for each gerar below 1.000 rpm or so (depending on the car) might cause it to stall. As long as you take note for a single speed RPM pair for each gear you can plot this chart
Carlos Yes, 0 at 0 for all gears.
Yep, but it is demonstrating.
There are a number of gear calculator also you can look at if you know your ratios.
Yeah you're right! You could start them all at 0/0 and just know anything under 800RPM or so would be stalled out.
i highly suggest you guys buy a used 10spd peterbilt or similar big truck with a big gear box, then teach the drivers how to rev match and down/up shift in one of those.
way more forgiving than a race car if ypu fuck it up, (I'm a trucker and a racer by trade)
he didnt mention engine braking. i think i have misunderstood engine braking for a long time due to never having raced a manual transmission irl, and never researched correct technique.
i use engine braking while heel tow downshifting. which im guessing i shouldnt. from this it looks like you should downshift to lower rpms. even on the first downshift, not the one you are going to stay in for the corner.
i used to think engine braking was beneficial for better braking along with using the actual brakes. for better stability and shorter braking distance.
in a way it made sense to me, i mean, when you apply brakes there is no flywheel type momentum to keep the wheels spinning other than their grip on the road, but with engine braking the wheels wont lock up. they cant. they have the engines momentum. so that always sort of made some sort of illogical logic to me. of course you can still cause a slide if your wheels are moving at a different speed to the car due to rpm mismatch. and that for all intents and purposes would be very similar to wheels locking up.
i think my incrorect assumption started back as a kid playing forza motorsport 4 with a gamepad and noticing i can brake way better when using manual transmission as opposed to automatic. but that was a mostly arcade game... silly thing to learn anything from.
anywho, so is there any benefit to engine braking? like during a downshift while aggressively braking, is there any benefit to releasing the clutch slightly early so there is maybe a 500-100rpm rev mismatch with car speed and engine speed so the engine helps slow the car, or should you always aim for the perfect downshift where you let the clutch out low in a gears rpm range with the blip perfectly at or just above where it will end up.
if that makes any sense...?
I have driven manual cars a little bit, but I don't own my own yet. Just curious if it is better to match the rpm with throttle on upshifts as well as downshifts or if the entire process is gas off. Any tips to smooth out my driving and extend clutch life are much appreciated.
In some cars that drop rpm faster you can keep a little pressure on the gas as you upshift to get a smoother shift
Technically, each of these lines should cross at 0rpm and 0mph, but otherwise great video!
Hope nobody really tries to drop into 2nd gear at 100 mph
2:35 Every one of those lines should intersect 0,0
Are there any electric rally cars?
I think the challenge with electric cars for stage rally is limited range and recharge time.
James Annis And no gears
rally stages are not so long compared the ev range... why no gears is a challenge? rev-matching definitely is.
@@trykozmaksym the stages arent too long but then add transit and all the other stages done in one day. Service is only 20 minutes long so not enough time to swap or recharge. Furthermore, lithium releases oxygen when ignited causing an even more violent combustion event so big offs could start forest fires.
Not yet, but soon! The range is the biggest problem, it's not just the stages but the transit miles. There isn't enough time in the service breaks to re-charge... The best solution would be to have quick-change batteries and swap them in service, but at least we haven't seen that done successfully yet. Also there's the safety aspect... If you crash an electric car, the rally safety crews aren't educated or equipped to deal with the potential hazards. Yet. It's all very close.
Nice explanation. But then again you are working in a rally school so it is not that surprising.
Omg if I went 30 mph in 1st gear my car would explode
If you’re in 5th gear at 1k RPM you WILL stall...or at least have 0 power.
If you werent a dude I'd marry you.
Your graph is incorrect. All lines should starts from one point, from 0.
Yours can start from zero if you'd like!
@@Teamoneilrally There is no choice. Zero RPM means zero MPH in any gear.
@@danvorobiov The point that begins the line for each gear starts from an estimated theoretical minimum RPM/Speed wherein the gear is usable. Though you are, albeit pedantically, correct in saying that every gear at 0RPM will be at 0MPH, typically it is only 1st gear that is used to start from a dead stop (excluding emergency scenarios). As such, it does not make sense to draw each gear's line starting at 0RPM/0MPH since the only usable gear in this range is 1st gear.
@@Tamarocker88 You right. But it's important to make geometry of drawing right. It will make it easier to understand WHY for those who don't know. That's why I wrote "All lines should starts from one point, from 0".
First dislike !
xD
I would be interested why