To be short and Direct thank you I like You this Explanation is wonderful and helpful The best things about your explanation is you did not try to show how difficult things are and try to be Exhibitionist about what you know and make things complicated just to show your background as many do in TH-cam thank you again and again May god bless you in your life and the day after
Wow, I've been looking for such a clear explanation all over youtube as to how to carry out such a procedure. I am so grateful for this John! By the way, I love your videos! Take care :)
John I’m currently doing an electrical installation course as part of forces resettlement, your videos are helping me out a lot mate, thanks for taking your time to do this 👍🏻👍🏻
One of my spark mates put me on to your channel John, loving the vids. The way you teach makes it really easy to understand. I'm only a 2nd year adult trainee so I'm a bit ahead of what I'm doing in college but I'll be doing the 3 flats I'm wiring the now. Looking forward to starting the boards then testing with a qualified spark and surprising him with my knowledge thanks to you🤙🏾.
Thank you John, for telling me finally what R2 and R1 mean, I believe I've ranted before about the fact that these silly names just mean people don't actually know WHAT they're testing
Thank you john your videos are fantastic just finished and passed my domestic installer city and guilds would have failed without these videos tip for anyone taking one of those fast track courses dont believe what anyone doing them says about no prior knowledge neccesary. And study johns videos before you go. .
Good luck and welcome to the crazy world of us Electrical Engineers. I done nearly 6 & a half years (apprenticeship), but I believe its around 4 years now.
Great video! This has helped giving me another route to now check my wiring as everything is fine in the MBU, I don't have an isolation switch but I've got earth, supply and neutral wires joined underneath the bath and I need to see which connection has finally failed otherwise I'm looking at the rest of the cable
HI John lovely and easy to follow and understand instructions ...Any chance you could do those tests in real-life situation? Would you be able to do some series on verious fault finding scenatios as well...cheers for all you've done so far much better then the electrical courses I have attended and paid dearly..
Hi John thanks for the Video, you made it really clear. *CAN YOU DO A VIDEO ABOUT AM2 TEST & WHAT PRACTICAL STUFF YOU NEED TO DO TO GET YOUR 17TH EDITION, e.g filling out the portfolio, getting the assessor out on site to watch you work. that would be very helpful
Thanks for vid. Useful to know about how NOT to connect CPC and Line and their consequences : no one told me this before. Been told use a terminal block to connect CPC and Line on Electrical course, acceptable, but better to use buzz bar I guess.
This works well on outlet switches with ease... Light switches less accessible... You will capture the resistance at switch side but not the trailing offs with ease to the ceiling fixture unless it's returned back to same switch box via neutral... ...
when you move the r1 to the earth bar to do the r1 + r2, parallel earth paths could affect the results or even give false continuity of the r2 conductor through a bonding conductor that could lose connection because a plumber adds some plastic piping in the future, i always thought it better practice to remove both r1 and r2 of the circuit being tested from the ccu connections and joining them together then.
Hi John, on a CPC I'm getting a reading of 0.5 ohms in ohms mode and in continuity mode the meter is a continuous beep. Then on another CPC I'm getting a reading of 0.7 ohms in ohms mode then in continuity mode the DMM is a non continuous beep. The meter is a fluke 117. Any reason why the beep is not a continuous one?
In a three plate lighting system where two separate lamps are are controlled from the two gangs of a two gang switch, there will be parallel cpcs (a cpc in the cable between the ceiling roses and a cpc in each of the switch drops). Do you temporarily disconnect the cpcs in the switch box to ensure cpc continuity between the roses when testing at the furthest rose or is this not necessary? In fact it's the same with any parallel paths, if you don't separate them you can't be sure of continuity of the cpc ... can you?
Hi John. I have a slightly odd testing scenario. There is a normally open contactor for a shower used to only connect the shower when the other shower is off as max demand would be too great with both of them on at same time. There is no physical means of closing the contacts with screwdriver etc, only the 230v coil. The coil is powered from the same supply as the shower via a 2 amp mcb to downrate the cable for that and a time delay switch which in turn holds the other shower contactor off. When doing the dead tests it would be necessary to close the contacts for r1 + r2 tests but this cannot be closed unless powered. Would it be ok to test both sides of the contactor and then add the resistances together? Or should the power for the contactor come from a separate source? Sorry for the long winded question.
Hi John, would it be possible to do a video into the the Theory of DC current. Is what's known as commen and 0V the same as earth? Apologies if posted in incorrect video. Thank you.
After proving dead when testing continuity of main earth is that the ZE value (loop impedance test) or am I getting confused cause how else is the main earth checked?
Could the live and CPC be reversed in the socket and still get a reading ? Can you explain the theory here when testing. I mean in a socket that you do not open up. Do we assume the CPC is in the correct terminal ?
Hi JW, should the CPC and line conductor be removed and joined in a connector so you are just measuring that cable only Enjoy watching and learning from your videos, thanks for them 👍
Hi john iv being watching your vedeos for years...I need advice installing a VSD...ON A 3 PHASE MOTOR...any advice e would be apreceated...I'm a time served electrician..jib ect.
I need information about de RCD testing. In my country Peru the electrical sistem is diferent, beacause threr is 220, 280, ando 440 v and I can´t know thah RCD work very well
Hello JW, Great videos, thank you. I've just started my apprenticeship college course. I am confused over why a continuity/polarity test using line and CPC is sufficient. What if the earth and line are crossed over? Wouldn't there need to be a similar test for earth and neutral to make sure everything is safe? I read elsewhere that there's no place to record such a test on the forms. Thanks again and best wishes.
That test on it's own won't detect a crossed L/CPC. It can be repeated using N and the CPC, results should be identical and it also confirms the neutral is connected properly.
Yes, that would confirm continuity of the CPC and N. If doing that, the L-CPC would also need to be done, so the neutral-cpc would be an additional test, not a replacement for the L-CPC
Hi John. Thanks for this incredible video. Can you please tell me under whether it is correct for Neutral and Earth to show continuity? I have come across a situation like that.
Within the installation there should be no connection between E&N. However if testing with the main switch on, there will be continuity between E&N as they are connected together in the supply network. Some appliances have filters inside which can show some connection between E&N particularly if testing at higher voltages wuch as an insulation test at 500V.
John Ward Thank you very much for your reply John. I decided to go to the distribution box and I have noticed that the connections are completely separate. But strangely, when I test for continuity the result shows there is continuity
off topic but could not find a way to message you direct. have you done a video on grid switches on a kitchen ring ? I've installed these as a customer request a couple of times but I'm not a fan. I've used the mk equipment but was left very disappointed poor quality screw and you can't terminate once you clip the module switched into the frame leaving no answer to top screws. deta was slightly better my real concern is linking the ring main across each module switches. how do you recommend wiring this system? thanks
No video, those switches are not really designed for use on a ring, or for use in a kitchen like that. The terminals are small and only rated for 20A. That style of wiring puts all of the load on the ring at a single point, which is not how rings were intended to be used, and the switches themselves will almost never be used as most people do not switch off their appliances every day.
John Ward thanks for your reply. most new builds are using these grid systems in the kitchens. I agree on the fact their rated to 20a but in theory are they not just switching 13amps? I'm unsure of them myself. regs state under counter appliances need to be able to be isolated. is this by mcbs on ccu? or would you recommend switched fuse spurs above worktop . have you come across these grid system ? or used it before. more info on this system would be grate.
I know its not allowed but I don't know the reason why that on an eicr you can't just take a zs on a circuit and take away the ze to get the r1 r2 value , I always thought it was because of parallel paths , but if I do the r1 r2 like you say with the link in the MET ( as does the on site guide) you would still get parallel paths , is there another reason? Thanks
R1+R2 is a DC resistance, Zs and Ze are AC impedance. Adding them together or calculating one from the other is not valid as they are different things.
Sorry to be a pest but can you explain that a bit more , why is the zs not a reliable reading? Just about most sparks I come across just do zs on the circuits and when I explain that your not meant to do that I don't really understand myself ?
Not sure I got that polarity part right, or it just works differently in the UK, but when at the heat, I measure between earth and neutral, shouldn't I get a low Ω reading too because neutral is connected to earth somewhere else? Wouldn't the polarity check only be complete if I measured both, line and neutral to earth, and both do not show open (with the temporary link in place)?
ah, ok, thanks, I somehow thought it would be only the breakers that are switched off for this test. Around here it is pretty much impossible (or at least quite hard) to disconnect neutral from earth or break neutral at a single point
Dennis Lubert ignore the neutral this is only used on the ring main test which is called the figure of eight. just use the live in the earth bar polarity is only different to the continuity in the fact continuity shows the resistance reading polarity is the sane test but the buzzer sounds when the switch is flicked. also when testing lights make sure your light bulbs are removed. personally if your not qualified don't touch with testing you will probably fry yourself. it took me 3 years to respect electricity. don't mess if your not sure.
My name is nitu. One of my neighbour has taken inverter and neutral connection from my meter. But the thing is I did new wiring in my house their is no touch with their connection. But our electrician made inverter connection with old wires and in some of the board their are old wires but their is no touch with neighbour wire.How come they bypassed all my connections. Can I talk to you about it...
Thanks John. Just one more question, what is the maximum acceptable value in ohms?as some installations could be old and not give the same results as a new installation. Many thanks
Yes, same method can be used. It isn't normally done, as a broken neutral would be immediately obvious as sockets, lights etc. would not work. A broken or missing earth would not be obvious so it is important that the test is done for that.
For a high power circuit such as a shower or cooker, it should be standard practice (but is not!) to test the Rl + Rn (live + neutral) to ensure that there are no bad connections or switches with a poor contact resistance in the circuit.
Get someone who is a member of one of the several organisations such as NICEIC, ELECSA, NAPIT, ECA. However note that qualifications do not automatically mean you will get a decent job done.
Very true John. I dont think much of these rate a tradesman websites, as I suppose anyone could pump up the ratings of a trader. Thanks for the advice.
what is the meter itself actually doing on a continuity test . i understand that no less than 200 mA is applied to the circuit at 4-24 no load voltage on a test...eg.. on an end to end test i get .45 ohms on a 2.5mm cable. so how does this result corrolate with the v.i.r..principle...v? i..200mA...r... .45 ohms... seems to me very ambiguous the closest result i found was 9v divided by 200 =45 ! am i looking at this all wrong,john ?
V=IR, so 0.45 ohms and 0.2A would be a voltage of 0.09 volts across the cable when the test is being done. The voltage is what the meter is measuring and converting into ohms for the display, higher resistance = higher voltage. No load voltage is exactly what is says - the voltage with no load (the thing being tested) connected. For testing resistance you either limit the current or the voltage, not both at the same time. If the 0.45 ohms cable was tested with 4 volts, a current of 8.9 amps would be required.
thank you for your prompt clarified reply john, i was misguided by the text statement as follows " the test must be carried out with a no load voltage of between 4-24v and a current no less than 200mA." therefore i was trying to equate a voltage between those figures ! your fine explanation solves my calculation problem ( and i must watch where i put those decimal points!) thank again john.
hello John Ward I have a question Wonder if you can help me The light downstairs and upstairs have a light switch 2 at each floor but I need to find which cable is which in order to connect it correctly buz they are not in order when you want to control light downstairs from upstairs. I need to find the correct wires and thinking about getting Wire Tracer and Tone Generator. Switch the fuse off in the consumer unit and then work on it with this device Do you think there is other way to do it or is better to get this tool and by running a test I will be able to mark each cable and connect it correctly ? Thank you for your time Arthur Glasgow
Current email we’ll known scheme provider is distributing tell me what you think about these new benefits being provided by scheme providers Just to confirm our schemes membership team will from now on be asking that the applicant has 2 years of experience in the electrical industry. This is a benefit to the applicant as when it comes to the assessment the Assessor will be checking for competency through visual evidence and line of questioning. More than anything the evidence of the applicants past experience will be the most apparent when attending their assessment through us. Kind regards,
It really doesn't matter what the LOAD device was in this example, . . . . . but why use a ''shower'' ?? An electric shower?!?! Is that the name used for Washing Machine or Dishwasher ?
Permanently wired appliances on UK systems use double pole switches which operate on both live and neutral. Only lighting circuits use single pole switches.
I love listening to composed well-spoken civilized men of the West. The echoes of the great minds of the past are reborn again in the attentive dignified teaching manner you now exhibit, good sir. Those like yourself, who conveye the subject matter patiently and intellectually, in a welcoming methodical manner, what could be better? That's something inherent I think, about the wholesome Folkish nature and welcoming demeanor of true English tradition and Anglo-Saxon states of being; hence why the globalists and internationalist agendas are using your own culture's inherent civility against itself, to twist and distort the national pride of "Englishness" into forcing you to all go vote labor party or Torey (the U.s. equivalent of the phony neo-cons and neo-liberals). All of these superficial camouflage appearances of a two party system, is in actual fact, a one-party system that agrees on 90% of issues wherever self-destruction of local culture, civic preservation, and domestic interest is concerned. I may not be A citizen of the U.K., nonetheless I know I speak for many true-hearted Americans when I say, we over here in North America, are praying for you inhabitants of modern dystopian U.K. living under the current incompetent and treasonous parliament. I frequently worry about the people of England, and the survival of authentic English culture. I hope groups like UKIP and BNP will continue to rise in public-approval, as it grows increasingly obvious that your domestic culture and rightful presence on your own island is threatened by phony neo-modern globalism, consumer-culture Marxist delusion, and the normalization of city-crime and breakdown of traditional family values.
To be short and Direct thank you I like You this Explanation is wonderful and helpful
The best things about your explanation is you did not try to show how difficult things are and try to be Exhibitionist about what you know and make things complicated just to show your background as many do in TH-cam
thank you again and again
May god bless you in your life and the day after
Wow, I've been looking for such a clear explanation all over youtube as to how to carry out such a procedure. I am so grateful for this John! By the way, I love your videos! Take care :)
Excellent training video plain simple English and no confusing jargon
Thanks Mr Ward
Dear John. A massive thank you for your excellent, clear and concise explanations. You set the standard.
John I’m currently doing an electrical installation course as part of forces resettlement, your videos are helping me out a lot mate, thanks for taking your time to do this 👍🏻👍🏻
One of my spark mates put me on to your channel John, loving the vids. The way you teach makes it really easy to understand. I'm only a 2nd year adult trainee so I'm a bit ahead of what I'm doing in college but I'll be doing the 3 flats I'm wiring the now. Looking forward to starting the boards then testing with a qualified spark and surprising him with my knowledge thanks to you🤙🏾.
Thank you John, for telling me finally what R2 and R1 mean, I believe I've ranted before about the fact that these silly names just mean people don't actually know WHAT they're testing
SLAVA UKRAINI🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦!!!.
Best channel. Your explanations are so clear and simple. Thanks! Please keeping making these types of videos that explain the basics!
Been about 9 years since i did my electrical installation qualifications and it all came flooding back. Brilliant, extremely easy to follow.
How come you didnt continue?
Thank you john your videos are fantastic just finished and passed my domestic installer city and guilds would have failed without these videos tip for anyone taking one of those fast track courses dont believe what anyone doing them says about no prior knowledge neccesary. And study johns videos before you go. .
Thanks a million for all these excellent practical videos and for your time that you so unselfishly give.
Jw, once again thank you for that wonderful explanation. Such a legend.
Great I like how you don't explain it too complicated or too fast like my college tutors do
I often show your videos to apprentices as you usually explain better than I can.
CrazySparkie63 I'm going to start an apprenticeship soon haha.
Good luck and welcome to the crazy world of us Electrical Engineers. I done nearly 6 & a half years (apprenticeship), but I believe its around 4 years now.
Yeah it's around 4 to 5 years now. My tutor at college was saying how it used to be 5 years on the apprenticeship and then around 1 year for the NVQ.
I use your videos for revision, I greatly appreciate your effort
Thank you Mr. J. W, you give me what I want to hear!
Such a good, clear teacher
yes and don't forget to unplug driers and washing machines, as these have capacitor's built-in as coil balancers, anyway good luck John
Really helpful, thanks so much! Struggled a bit with this today
Such a good teacher. Thanks John
Great video! This has helped giving me another route to now check my wiring as everything is fine in the MBU, I don't have an isolation switch but I've got earth, supply and neutral wires joined underneath the bath and I need to see which connection has finally failed otherwise I'm looking at the rest of the cable
What a great series of tutorials. Thank you JW
HI John lovely and easy to follow and understand instructions ...Any chance you could do those tests in real-life situation? Would you be able to do some series on verious fault finding scenatios as well...cheers for all you've done so far much better then the electrical courses I have attended and paid dearly..
John your videos are amazing. You have just wired up a light bulb for me!
Hi John thanks for the Video, you made it really clear. *CAN YOU DO A VIDEO ABOUT AM2 TEST & WHAT PRACTICAL STUFF YOU NEED TO DO TO GET YOUR 17TH EDITION, e.g filling out the portfolio, getting the assessor out on site to watch you work. that would be very helpful
Thanks for vid. Useful to know about how NOT to connect CPC and Line and their consequences : no one told me this before. Been told use a terminal block to connect CPC and Line on Electrical course, acceptable, but better to use buzz bar I guess.
Terminal block is ok, although you have already got the earth bar in the CU so might as well make use of it.
very informative as always JW thank you.
Thank you very much for sharing your vast knowledge base and expertise J.W.
great video as usual, very informative.
Thanks John.
Great as always.
This vid really helped me. Thank you and much appreciated.
Brilliant, Informative as ever JW
This works well on outlet switches with ease... Light switches less accessible... You will capture the resistance at switch side but not the trailing offs with ease to the ceiling fixture unless it's returned back to same switch box via neutral... ...
Bottom line it could be a prick of a job and time consuming..
when you move the r1 to the earth bar to do the r1 + r2, parallel earth paths could affect the results or even give false continuity of the r2 conductor through a bonding conductor that could lose connection because a plumber adds some plastic piping in the future, i always thought it better practice to remove both r1 and r2 of the circuit being tested from the ccu connections and joining them together then.
Wonderful, I would like to no when it beeps do that mean that’s the wire has to be replaced or is there a break in it
Exceedingly good!!! Dank je!
thank you so much John that's really helpful
Hi John, on a CPC I'm getting a reading of 0.5 ohms in ohms mode and in continuity mode the meter is a continuous beep. Then on another CPC I'm getting a reading of 0.7 ohms in ohms mode then in continuity mode the DMM is a non continuous beep. The meter is a fluke 117. Any reason why the beep is not a continuous one?
In a three plate lighting system where two separate lamps are are controlled from the two gangs of a two gang switch, there will be parallel cpcs (a cpc in the cable between the ceiling roses and a cpc in each of the switch drops). Do you temporarily disconnect the cpcs in the switch box to ensure cpc continuity between the roses when testing at the furthest rose or is this not necessary? In fact it's the same with any parallel paths, if you don't separate them you can't be sure of continuity of the cpc ... can you?
So nice to learn from here
Hi John. I have a slightly odd testing scenario. There is a normally open contactor for a shower used to only connect the shower when the other shower is off as max demand would be too great with both of them on at same time. There is no physical means of closing the contacts with screwdriver etc, only the 230v coil. The coil is powered from the same supply as the shower via a 2 amp mcb to downrate the cable for that and a time delay switch which in turn holds the other shower contactor off. When doing the dead tests it would be necessary to close the contacts for r1 + r2 tests but this cannot be closed unless powered. Would it be ok to test both sides of the contactor and then add the resistances together? Or should the power for the contactor come from a separate source? Sorry for the long winded question.
John do you have a show about external generators and correct earthing arrangments using armoured cable
Very good video, very well explained.
I could listen to Morgan Freeman and John talking, forever...
What about them talking to each other?
Thanks John..
Very nicely explained!
Hi John, would it be possible to do a video into the the Theory of DC current. Is what's known as commen and 0V the same as earth? Apologies if posted in incorrect video. Thank you.
Nice presentation, simple
After proving dead when testing continuity of main earth is that the ZE value (loop impedance test) or am I getting confused cause how else is the main earth checked?
you are very well spoken
Could the live and CPC be reversed in the socket and still get a reading ? Can you explain the theory here when testing. I mean in a socket that you do not open up. Do we assume the CPC is in the correct terminal ?
Hi JW, should the CPC and line conductor be removed and joined in a connector so you are just measuring that cable only Enjoy watching and learning from your videos, thanks for them 👍
Hi john iv being watching your vedeos for years...I need advice installing a VSD...ON A 3 PHASE MOTOR...any advice e would be apreceated...I'm a time served electrician..jib ect.
Well was waiting for him to turn the switch on early on in the explanation
What if you testing a lightb and it on ly has the neutral and live wire...can you do the same
I need information about de RCD testing. In my country Peru the electrical sistem is diferent, beacause threr is 220, 280, ando 440 v and I can´t know thah RCD work very well
Thank you, great vid
Hello JW, Great videos, thank you. I've just started my apprenticeship college course. I am confused over why a continuity/polarity test using line and CPC is sufficient. What if the earth and line are crossed over? Wouldn't there need to be a similar test for earth and neutral to make sure everything is safe? I read elsewhere that there's no place to record such a test on the forms. Thanks again and best wishes.
That test on it's own won't detect a crossed L/CPC. It can be repeated using N and the CPC, results should be identical and it also confirms the neutral is connected properly.
Thank you for the video, the link mentioned at 5:47, can it be done between the Neutral and the protective conductor rather then using the live?
Yes, that would confirm continuity of the CPC and N. If doing that, the L-CPC would also need to be done, so the neutral-cpc would be an additional test, not a replacement for the L-CPC
Thanks for video
Hi John. Thanks for this incredible video. Can you please tell me under whether it is correct for Neutral and Earth to show continuity? I have come across a situation like that.
Within the installation there should be no connection between E&N.
However if testing with the main switch on, there will be continuity between E&N as they are connected together in the supply network.
Some appliances have filters inside which can show some connection between E&N particularly if testing at higher voltages wuch as an insulation test at 500V.
John Ward Thank you very much for your reply John. I decided to go to the distribution box and I have noticed that the connections are completely separate. But strangely, when I test for continuity the result shows there is continuity
Hi JW,
Would this be performed at the last point on a light circuit or every point? I imagine the reading would be largest gathered?
At every point, the highest value is recorded on the certificate.
Thank you!
Similar question John would the second way require main trip to be off tia
Power off and wires disconnected. This and the other initial tests are done before any power is connected.
off topic but could not find a way to message you direct. have you done a video on grid switches on a kitchen ring ? I've installed these as a customer request a couple of times but I'm not a fan. I've used the mk equipment but was left very disappointed poor quality screw and you can't terminate once you clip the module switched into the frame leaving no answer to top screws. deta was slightly better my real concern is linking the ring main across each module switches. how do you recommend wiring this system? thanks
No video, those switches are not really designed for use on a ring, or for use in a kitchen like that.
The terminals are small and only rated for 20A. That style of wiring puts all of the load on the ring at a single point, which is not how rings were intended to be used, and the switches themselves will almost never be used as most people do not switch off their appliances every day.
John Ward thanks for your reply. most new builds are using these grid systems in the kitchens. I agree on the fact their rated to 20a but in theory are they not just switching 13amps? I'm unsure of them myself. regs state under counter appliances need to be able to be isolated. is this by mcbs on ccu? or would you recommend switched fuse spurs
above worktop . have you come across these grid system ? or used it before. more info on this system would be grate.
I know its not allowed but I don't know the reason why that on an eicr you can't just take a zs on a circuit and take away the ze to get the r1 r2 value , I always thought it was because of parallel paths , but if I do the r1 r2 like you say with the link in the MET ( as does the on site guide) you would still get parallel paths , is there another reason? Thanks
R1+R2 is a DC resistance, Zs and Ze are AC impedance. Adding them together or calculating one from the other is not valid as they are different things.
Sorry to be a pest but can you explain that a bit more , why is the zs not a reliable reading? Just about most sparks I come across just do zs on the circuits and when I explain that your not meant to do that I don't really understand myself ?
I still think you should have shown testing of R1 + R2 on a ring circuit with ends of R1 & R2 crossed.
CrazySparkie63 I think he has in a separate video
Not sure I got that polarity part right, or it just works differently in the UK, but when at the heat, I measure between earth and neutral, shouldn't I get a low Ω reading too because neutral is connected to earth somewhere else? Wouldn't the polarity check only be complete if I measured both, line and neutral to earth, and both do not show open (with the temporary link in place)?
The incoming supply will have L and E connected, but this test is done with the supply completely disconnected.
ah, ok, thanks, I somehow thought it would be only the breakers that are switched off for this test. Around here it is pretty much impossible (or at least quite hard) to disconnect neutral from earth or break neutral at a single point
Dennis Lubert ignore the neutral this is only used on the ring main test which is called the figure of eight.
just use the live in the earth bar polarity is only different to the continuity in the fact continuity shows the resistance reading polarity is the sane test but the buzzer sounds when the switch is flicked.
also when testing lights make sure your light bulbs are removed.
personally if your not qualified don't touch with testing you will probably fry yourself. it took me 3 years to respect electricity.
don't mess if your not sure.
My name is nitu. One of my neighbour has taken inverter and neutral connection from my meter. But the thing is I did new wiring in my house their is no touch with their connection. But our electrician made inverter connection with old wires and in some of the board their are old wires but their is no touch with neighbour wire.How come they bypassed all my connections.
Can I talk to you about it...
Heaps of help!!!!
Hi, is the continuity done for each individual circuit? example sockets, than lights etc?
Thanks
Yes, all the tests are done on each individual circuit.
Thanks John. Just one more question, what is the maximum acceptable value in ohms?as some installations could be old and not give the same results as a new installation.
Many thanks
JW, can you test your live to neutral circuit for continuity using a link too while the circuit is dead?
Yes, same method can be used. It isn't normally done, as a broken neutral would be immediately obvious as sockets, lights etc. would not work. A broken or missing earth would not be obvious so it is important that the test is done for that.
???
For a high power circuit such as a shower or cooker, it should be standard practice (but is not!) to test the Rl + Rn (live + neutral) to ensure that there are no bad connections or switches with a poor contact resistance in the circuit.
John whats the best way to find a qualified electrician for work in the home? thanks.
Get someone who is a member of one of the several organisations such as NICEIC, ELECSA, NAPIT, ECA. However note that qualifications do not automatically mean you will get a decent job done.
Very true John. I dont think much of these rate a tradesman websites, as I suppose anyone could pump up the ratings of a trader. Thanks for the advice.
thank you sir
What kind of results should we expect? Sorry if that is a broad question
Depends on the size of the conductors and their length - resistance increases with longer circuits, and decreases if the conductors are larger.
what is the meter itself actually doing on a continuity test . i understand that no less than 200 mA is applied to the circuit at 4-24 no load voltage on a test...eg.. on an end to end test i get .45 ohms on a 2.5mm cable. so how does this result corrolate with the v.i.r..principle...v? i..200mA...r... .45 ohms... seems to me very ambiguous the closest result i found was 9v divided by 200 =45 ! am i looking at this all wrong,john ?
V=IR, so 0.45 ohms and 0.2A would be a voltage of 0.09 volts across the cable when the test is being done.
The voltage is what the meter is measuring and converting into ohms for the display, higher resistance = higher voltage.
No load voltage is exactly what is says - the voltage with no load (the thing being tested) connected.
For testing resistance you either limit the current or the voltage, not both at the same time. If the 0.45 ohms cable was tested with 4 volts, a current of 8.9 amps would be required.
thank you for your prompt clarified reply john, i was misguided by the text statement as follows " the test must be carried out with a no load voltage of between 4-24v and a current no less than 200mA." therefore i was trying to equate a voltage between those figures ! your fine explanation solves my calculation problem ( and i must watch where i put those decimal points!) thank again john.
It was awesome
After installed finished which Test 1st, 2nd & 3rd with Polarity, Insulation & Continuity pleases.
The full set of tests in order with the introduction first is here: th-cam.com/play/PLVsHvs2SuqmrHBQ0PDDHzq2LXkssRBp4Q.html
Thank you so much for quick reply
hello John Ward I have a question Wonder if you can help me The light downstairs and upstairs have a light switch 2 at each floor but I need to find which cable is which in order to connect it correctly buz they are not in order when you want to control light downstairs from upstairs. I need to find the correct wires and thinking about getting Wire Tracer and Tone Generator. Switch the fuse off in the consumer unit and then work on it with this device Do you think there is other way to do it or is better to get this tool and by running a test I will be able to mark each cable and connect it correctly ? Thank you for your time Arthur Glasgow
Current email we’ll known scheme provider is distributing tell me what you think about these new benefits being provided by scheme providers Just to confirm our schemes membership team will from now on be asking that the applicant has 2 years of experience in the electrical industry. This is a benefit to the applicant as when it comes to the assessment the Assessor will be checking for competency through visual evidence and line of questioning.
More than anything the evidence of the applicants past experience will be the most apparent when attending their assessment through us.
Kind regards,
Why put a link between cpc and line when you can just take them both out at the shower and test at the consumer unit ?
If there is no temporary link, how will you confirm continuity?
Just a quick question can you make the link between the cpc and like with a block connector ?
While love the voice, I run it at 1:25 speed for my pref
Jay Dub is a bad ass
Electric conductivity test
Is the test instrument a digital multimeter?
It could be, although a dedicated continuity meter or multifunction installation tester would be more usual.
Thank you,,
It really doesn't matter what the LOAD device was in this example, . . . . . but why use a ''shower'' ?? An electric shower?!?! Is that the name used for Washing Machine or Dishwasher ?
Electric shower: th-cam.com/video/ZwuhFLsowRc/w-d-xo.html
i watched so many others and then watch the comments be turned off.
Do you not ever test continuity at the light fitting John?
Your brown looks remarkably reddish?
The shower is plastic, so why the test? Up to the switch yes, if the back box is metal.
The outer casing may be plastic, but the heating element inside will have a metal covering, and the shower unit will have an earth connection.
neutrals don't have switches!
Permanently wired appliances on UK systems use double pole switches which operate on both live and neutral.
Only lighting circuits use single pole switches.
good job mate
No clear voicr
I love listening to composed well-spoken civilized men of the West. The echoes of the great minds of the past are reborn again in the attentive dignified teaching manner you now exhibit, good sir. Those like yourself, who conveye the subject matter patiently and intellectually, in a welcoming methodical manner, what could be better? That's something inherent I think, about the wholesome Folkish nature and welcoming demeanor of true English tradition and Anglo-Saxon states of being; hence why the globalists and internationalist agendas are using your own culture's inherent civility against itself, to twist and distort the national pride of "Englishness" into forcing you to all go vote labor party or Torey (the U.s. equivalent of the phony neo-cons and neo-liberals). All of these superficial camouflage appearances of a two party system, is in actual fact, a one-party system that agrees on 90% of issues wherever self-destruction of local culture, civic preservation, and domestic interest is concerned. I may not be A citizen of the U.K., nonetheless I know I speak for many true-hearted Americans when I say, we over here in North America, are praying for you inhabitants of modern dystopian U.K. living under the current incompetent and treasonous parliament.
I frequently worry about the people of England, and the survival of authentic English culture. I hope groups like UKIP and BNP will continue to rise in public-approval, as it grows increasingly obvious that your domestic culture and rightful presence on your own island is threatened by phony neo-modern globalism, consumer-culture Marxist delusion, and the normalization of city-crime and breakdown of traditional family values.
You need some fucking help mate
nuetrals dont use switches, yikes