A question from the live chat that we sadly just didn't have time to answer: How do you all go about researching for your costumes to make plus sized costumes?
Just chiming in: for me, I don't think research starts any differently for me than it would for a straight sized costumer. I usually get my inspiration from museum pieces and historic artwork or the work if other costumers. I will typically research how the garment was made, who wore it, and why it came into fashion to give context as well. From there, it's about finding patterns or figuring out how to draft it myself depending on the garment. Since most clothing was tailored to the wearer, anyone could wear anything and I feel the same is true today. Sometimes patterns need adjusting, of course. But whether using a pattern or self-drafting, mockups are the best! I do love finding paintings and and photos of plus size women throughout history though, but that's not always what I base my creations on.
If I don't have an idea for the costume in mind already, I look at paintings and fashion plates to inspire me. I usually decide what era I want and then search for patterns and then fabric.
I am a portrait artist and have had to make my clothes from the time I was 12….I was size 10 my jr and sr year in high school and a size 12 in my 20s…..now I am size 20 at 75. But before those times and since I have always been more than abundant…..my proportions have always been different than the norm….arms 2” too long and fuller than allowed…bust never abundant in proportion except when I nursed my children…..waist a bit too large no matter what size I was….barrel chested from father’s DNA…..never had slender legs…..I grew up relatively poor so if you wanted something you made it…..I used patterns exclusively for years but draft my own often…I design things I want to wear……I guess I have made everything to wear except shoes…..I like to make styles taken from different costumes or times and make it work…..
Bernadette banner inspired me to sew again, but Pockets Full of Poseys made me realize I can do historical as well. I look more like her then Bernadette. But the Closet Historian is teaching me how to draft. I love this youtube education stuff.
It's what's been getting me through the pandemic - learning how to sew to fit my round body (thank you You Tube and Cos Tube). I picked up hand sewing just before it all hit - Thank you Bernadette. Gave myself a Christmas present of a 1915 hand-crank Singer 99K. Someday I will make peace with Full Bust Adjustments... until then, thank you everyone. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
There's so much great info to be found on TH-cam, absolutely. I look up tutorials and whatnot here all the time, as I wander through various hobbies and interests, because I'm a visual learner.
I do alterations for a living. The number of people who are surprised that I can fix a gaping waist band or sloppy shoulders which they just put up with amazes me. Then there are the bride's who think having 3 + fittings is ridiculous. 🤦♀️ Don't make your body fit the clothes...make the clothes fit your body that's what will make it look amazing.
I’m also apple shape and used to think I hated the twenties but when I found pics of actual plus size folks in the twenties I’ve found they look great! I’m hoping to give the decade another shot :)
I have found a few 20s looks I don't hate, generally from the first couple years of the decade before the waistline completely disappeared. And I have seen some modern costumers do really good looking things with the 20s silhouette. But there are only so many hours in the day, and so many other time periods and styles to play in XD
Yeah, we did discuss Charm Patterns briefly. It's good to see a patternmaker with such a large following work to make their patterns more accessible and inclusive.
Wonderful panel. Thank you everyone for all of your hard work. Sewing is Self Defense. Chuck 'normative'. Chuck 'average'. It's time is done. Our body shapes existed through history. I want clothing that is actually tailored to fit me. And, given the budget I have to work with, that tailor is gonna have to be me. I'm mostly an short waisted hourglass that's a bit top heavy (38FF). I use to be a size 18, God alone know what the pandemic has done to the numbers. I was average size for the 80's when I was a teenager; didn't start gaining weight until my Frosh 10 from Uni decided to stay and invite company. So for me it was this gradual multi-year process of finding that entire stores no longer fit me. My goals are to have a closet full of historically adequate, history bounding wardrobe that was made by me. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
Thank you so much for watching! Clothing can absolutely be armor, and feeling confident shouldn't just be for straight sized people. Who doesn't stand a little taller when wearing something we know we look amazing in? I think your goal sounds amazing, and I wish you all the best as you expand your wardrobe. You're worth it.
I need office wear that is comfy, but cute. I took an office job during the pandemic and we are returning to an office I spent 5 days in last year. I hate buying office clothes. They never fit.
Finally catching up on some of the CoSy vids that I didn't get to over the weekend. This was a wonderful panel put on by a marvelous group of ladies. Thanks so much for all the tips and encouragement.
I love every one of you! Also loved the kitty cameo appearance, always good to see the furry overlord supuuuuurrrrrvisors. Seriously, this round table was awesome and very needed. From one plus sized costumer to you all, a big thank you for being you and putting it out there for the rest of us to be inspired by.
Kitty was napping on the recliner in my office and started demanding treats...so she got the opportunity to "earn" her snack 😉 (mostly so folks would know why I was so distracted)
Thank you for this panel!! Plus size here, and my weight is mostly front-to-back. I’ve got a large bust, even bigger “beer” belly (made without beer!), and also a butt that goes straight back. Shoooort (5’ even), and all of my lack of height is in my legs. My BFF is literally a head taller than me, but when we’re sitting next to each other we look the same height.
You all are an inspiration! I don't even costume yet, though I've been involved in historical performance in the past, but I left this panel (watched after the fact) feeling so much better about myself. Thank you!
Really great discussion, thanks for making the time to come together to talk about this issue. There was a lot of talking over each other though - maybe the raise your hand feature can be used next time? It’s hard to mod a discussion with 8 people, I know! It’s great to hear so many different opinions. Also at times, this was hard to watch bc of how self deprecating some of the people were about their bodies.
Thank you awesome ladies for this panel! Lots of things being talked about that I can relate to. I'm gravtitating towards historybounding myself and slowly starting to build up my wardrobe, as I've come to the realization that fashion from past eras that relied on the clothes to give _everyone_ the proper silouette is probably gonna suit me better than modern fashion. And I think "Cleavage often isn't under your control" is gonna stick with me for a while ;)
Ready to wear clothing and “standardizing” sizes absolutely changed how people look at the relationship between clothing and the body it goes on. I wish you the best of luck on building your history bounding wardrobe, and be sure to share photos on Instagram!
Thanks all, I don't do historical or costuming, but I want to get back into sewing some clothes, and it DOES help to hear your experiences, to know you've overcome struggles, and to see people who aren't 'straight sized' doing and loving "the thing."
Thank you for watching. Representation is important for everyone, and being able to see that, yes, there are others that also like what you like, and do what you want to do, is so affirming.
I have commissioned some custom edwardian boots because I am so fed up not being able to fit my calves and ankles. Also on survivor bias check out queen Victoria's clothing. In latter years there are also lots of images of her too for plus size inspiration.
Victoria is a still an example of survivor bias, though. Her clothes survived because of a combination of being the Royal Wardrobe and her being incredibly short, even if she did have a purported 52” waist by the end of her life.
Unfortunately had to go to bed halfway through, but having finally caught up, I can say, great panel, and I'll definitely be keeping an eye out for those reccs. And speaking of reccs, I would be very grateful for those about custom shoe sizes, and especially if anyone knows of a brand or company that actually does boots for wider calves.
I'm glad you came back to watch! I will make sure the eight of us get our shoe list compiled, probably in a google doc, and then make sure to share it here.
Would you all consider making a video with your favorite historical reproduction/inspired/adequate shoe companies other than AD? Especially for comfortable flats or very short heels? Please and thanks, in advance.
My hips are ten inches bigger than my waist and five inches bigger than my bust. Everyone is shaped differently. My body is naturally built for the romantic era. Still can’t find any patterns in my size. I’m learning, but it’s taking a lot of time to figure it out.
Are the sizes you are referring to different to those used in Europe, Australia, New Zealand etc because at least one person stated that a size 12 is seen as huge, yet that is only a 34" bust which is very definitely not huge. I consider myself large - medication caused, slowly getting smaller - and as a 52" overbust and 56" hip but only 4'11" tall I am very definitely not small. In fact I am a size 26/28 in ready made garments but to listen to all of your discussions I am so far beyond huge as to be on another planet. And that is a truly worrying idea. Incidentally, I began sewing as a teen because of the difficulty in buying size 8 clothing (22" waist, 32" bust, 34" hips) was so difficult and hard to find, and have always preferred older styles. Mainly because in the 1950s clothing was more my size and mum had a lot of ready cut fashions from the 50s - purchased through magazines - that had never been sewn and I just sewed them and wore them. A good discussion but this size issue might be worth explaining as I can't be the only person not living in the US who will be comfused by hearing that a size 12-14 is huge (actually average) and might just think they are obviously much much larger than any of those on the panel as a result. It has certainly left me wondering as many on the panel look to be my size or larger yet apparently take a size which is at least 4 dress sizes smaller.
I've only seen one proper corset one real life, at a garage sale. It was tiny, seriously tiny. I think maybe a small 9 year old would fit in. I had to double check and confirm that the previous owner was in fact a grown woman.
I loved this panel, but it's really heartbreaking to hear how you talk about your own bodies sometimes. Please don't call yourself names you would never call anybody else!
Thank you for watching. I don't think any of us are calling ourselves names as personal put-downs. Self-deprecating humor is something a lot of people use, both among the panelists and in the world at large. The plus-sized community is not a monolith, and some people are perfectly comfortable using descriptors that others find very offensive or demeaning. And for me personally, there are things I can and do say about my own body that I would never even dream of saying about someone else. Everyone is different, and everyone uses language in a slightly different way.
A question from the live chat that we sadly just didn't have time to answer: How do you all go about researching for your costumes to make plus sized costumes?
Just chiming in: for me, I don't think research starts any differently for me than it would for a straight sized costumer. I usually get my inspiration from museum pieces and historic artwork or the work if other costumers. I will typically research how the garment was made, who wore it, and why it came into fashion to give context as well. From there, it's about finding patterns or figuring out how to draft it myself depending on the garment.
Since most clothing was tailored to the wearer, anyone could wear anything and I feel the same is true today. Sometimes patterns need adjusting, of course. But whether using a pattern or self-drafting, mockups are the best!
I do love finding paintings and and photos of plus size women throughout history though, but that's not always what I base my creations on.
If I don't have an idea for the costume in mind already, I look at paintings and fashion plates to inspire me. I usually decide what era I want and then search for patterns and then fabric.
I am a portrait artist and have had to make my clothes from the time I was 12….I was size 10 my jr and sr year in high school and a size 12 in my 20s…..now I am size 20 at 75. But before those times and since I have always been more than abundant…..my proportions have always been different than the norm….arms 2” too long and fuller than allowed…bust never abundant in proportion except when I nursed my children…..waist a bit too large no matter what size I was….barrel chested from father’s DNA…..never had slender legs…..I grew up relatively poor so if you wanted something you made it…..I used patterns exclusively for years but draft my own often…I design things I want to wear……I guess I have made everything to wear except shoes…..I like to make styles taken from different costumes or times and make it work…..
Bernadette banner inspired me to sew again, but Pockets Full of Poseys made me realize I can do historical as well. I look more like her then Bernadette. But the Closet Historian is teaching me how to draft. I love this youtube education stuff.
It's what's been getting me through the pandemic - learning how to sew to fit my round body (thank you You Tube and Cos Tube). I picked up hand sewing just before it all hit - Thank you Bernadette. Gave myself a Christmas present of a 1915 hand-crank Singer 99K.
Someday I will make peace with Full Bust Adjustments... until then, thank you everyone.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
There's so much great info to be found on TH-cam, absolutely. I look up tutorials and whatnot here all the time, as I wander through various hobbies and interests, because I'm a visual learner.
This forum reminds us that it is not your body that needs to change...it is the clothes.
Absolutely. Every body is a valid body.
I do alterations for a living. The number of people who are surprised that I can fix a gaping waist band or sloppy shoulders which they just put up with amazes me. Then there are the bride's who think having 3 + fittings is ridiculous. 🤦♀️
Don't make your body fit the clothes...make the clothes fit your body that's what will make it look amazing.
I’m also apple shape and used to think I hated the twenties but when I found pics of actual plus size folks in the twenties I’ve found they look great! I’m hoping to give the decade another shot :)
I have found a few 20s looks I don't hate, generally from the first couple years of the decade before the waistline completely disappeared. And I have seen some modern costumers do really good looking things with the 20s silhouette. But there are only so many hours in the day, and so many other time periods and styles to play in XD
I'm going to give the twenties a try next month!
@@PocketFullofPoseys Yay! Can’t wait to see your twenties outfit!
Charm is now working on a plus size block that includes a lot of larger sizes.
Yeah, we did discuss Charm Patterns briefly. It's good to see a patternmaker with such a large following work to make their patterns more accessible and inclusive.
Wonderful panel. Thank you everyone for all of your hard work.
Sewing is Self Defense.
Chuck 'normative'. Chuck 'average'. It's time is done. Our body shapes existed through history. I want clothing that is actually tailored to fit me. And, given the budget I have to work with, that tailor is gonna have to be me.
I'm mostly an short waisted hourglass that's a bit top heavy (38FF). I use to be a size 18, God alone know what the pandemic has done to the numbers. I was average size for the 80's when I was a teenager; didn't start gaining weight until my Frosh 10 from Uni decided to stay and invite company. So for me it was this gradual multi-year process of finding that entire stores no longer fit me.
My goals are to have a closet full of historically adequate, history bounding wardrobe that was made by me.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
Thank you so much for watching! Clothing can absolutely be armor, and feeling confident shouldn't just be for straight sized people. Who doesn't stand a little taller when wearing something we know we look amazing in?
I think your goal sounds amazing, and I wish you all the best as you expand your wardrobe. You're worth it.
I need office wear that is comfy, but cute. I took an office job during the pandemic and we are returning to an office I spent 5 days in last year. I hate buying office clothes. They never fit.
Finally catching up on some of the CoSy vids that I didn't get to over the weekend. This was a wonderful panel put on by a marvelous group of ladies. Thanks so much for all the tips and encouragement.
Thank you so much for watching! Every body is valid, and has a place within the community.
Thanks for doing this panel!
Thank you for watching!
I love every one of you! Also loved the kitty cameo appearance, always good to see the furry overlord supuuuuurrrrrvisors. Seriously, this round table was awesome and very needed. From one plus sized costumer to you all, a big thank you for being you and putting it out there for the rest of us to be inspired by.
Kitty was napping on the recliner in my office and started demanding treats...so she got the opportunity to "earn" her snack 😉
(mostly so folks would know why I was so distracted)
This was great!
Thanks for watching!
I can't express how much I loved this. Thank you all!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for this panel!! Plus size here, and my weight is mostly front-to-back. I’ve got a large bust, even bigger “beer” belly (made without beer!), and also a butt that goes straight back. Shoooort (5’ even), and all of my lack of height is in my legs. My BFF is literally a head taller than me, but when we’re sitting next to each other we look the same height.
We must be body doubles. I am the same!
Thanks for watching! I carry my excess on my stomach as well, and have gotten the "When are you due" questions a couple times, which is never fun.
This is FANTASTIC. Thank y'all for doing this.
Thank you so much for watching!
You all are an inspiration! I don't even costume yet, though I've been involved in historical performance in the past, but I left this panel (watched after the fact) feeling so much better about myself. Thank you!
I’m glad we were able to help you, and thank you so much for watching!
Really great discussion, thanks for making the time to come together to talk about this issue. There was a lot of talking over each other though - maybe the raise your hand feature can be used next time? It’s hard to mod a discussion with 8 people, I know! It’s great to hear so many different opinions. Also at times, this was hard to watch bc of how self deprecating some of the people were about their bodies.
Fantastic discussion.
thanks for watching!
Thank you for this panel, it was really interesting, and nice to listen to while sewing.
Thank you for watching it!
Thank you awesome ladies for this panel! Lots of things being talked about that I can relate to. I'm gravtitating towards historybounding myself and slowly starting to build up my wardrobe, as I've come to the realization that fashion from past eras that relied on the clothes to give _everyone_ the proper silouette is probably gonna suit me better than modern fashion. And I think "Cleavage often isn't under your control" is gonna stick with me for a while ;)
Ready to wear clothing and “standardizing” sizes absolutely changed how people look at the relationship between clothing and the body it goes on. I wish you the best of luck on building your history bounding wardrobe, and be sure to share photos on Instagram!
Thanks all, I don't do historical or costuming, but I want to get back into sewing some clothes, and it DOES help to hear your experiences, to know you've overcome struggles, and to see people who aren't 'straight sized' doing and loving "the thing."
Thank you for watching. Representation is important for everyone, and being able to see that, yes, there are others that also like what you like, and do what you want to do, is so affirming.
So interesting and helpful! I'm not plus size but my proportions are really off so there were many tips I can use :) And it was mentally healing
I’m watching this later, but I’m so happy to see it. I’m plus sized, but probably differently than all of you.
Thank you so much for this pannel!! I'll try to be as brave as you guys
Thank you for watching! Like so many other things, it takes practice to find that zone of confidence.
I have commissioned some custom edwardian boots because I am so fed up not being able to fit my calves and ankles.
Also on survivor bias check out queen Victoria's clothing. In latter years there are also lots of images of her too for plus size inspiration.
Victoria is a still an example of survivor bias, though. Her clothes survived because of a combination of being the Royal Wardrobe and her being incredibly short, even if she did have a purported 52” waist by the end of her life.
Unfortunately had to go to bed halfway through, but having finally caught up, I can say, great panel, and I'll definitely be keeping an eye out for those reccs. And speaking of reccs, I would be very grateful for those about custom shoe sizes, and especially if anyone knows of a brand or company that actually does boots for wider calves.
I'm glad you came back to watch! I will make sure the eight of us get our shoe list compiled, probably in a google doc, and then make sure to share it here.
So well said! Thank you all!
Would you all consider making a video with your favorite historical reproduction/inspired/adequate shoe companies other than AD? Especially for comfortable flats or very short heels? Please and thanks, in advance.
My hips are ten inches bigger than my waist and five inches bigger than my bust. Everyone is shaped differently. My body is naturally built for the romantic era. Still can’t find any patterns in my size. I’m learning, but it’s taking a lot of time to figure it out.
Are the sizes you are referring to different to those used in Europe, Australia, New Zealand etc because at least one person stated that a size 12 is seen as huge, yet that is only a 34" bust which is very definitely not huge. I consider myself large - medication caused, slowly getting smaller - and as a 52" overbust and 56" hip but only 4'11" tall I am very definitely not small. In fact I am a size 26/28 in ready made garments but to listen to all of your discussions I am so far beyond huge as to be on another planet. And that is a truly worrying idea.
Incidentally, I began sewing as a teen because of the difficulty in buying size 8 clothing (22" waist, 32" bust, 34" hips) was so difficult and hard to find, and have always preferred older styles. Mainly because in the 1950s clothing was more my size and mum had a lot of ready cut fashions from the 50s - purchased through magazines - that had never been sewn and I just sewed them and wore them. A good discussion but this size issue might be worth explaining as I can't be the only person not living in the US who will be comfused by hearing that a size 12-14 is huge (actually average) and might just think they are obviously much much larger than any of those on the panel as a result. It has certainly left me wondering as many on the panel look to be my size or larger yet apparently take a size which is at least 4 dress sizes smaller.
I've only seen one proper corset one real life, at a garage sale. It was tiny, seriously tiny. I think maybe a small 9 year old would fit in. I had to double check and confirm that the previous owner was in fact a grown woman.
Relate to being hit by puberty and suddenly expanding.
It’s not uncommon, that’s for certain.
I cannot wear heels due to disabilities.
I loved this panel, but it's really heartbreaking to hear how you talk about your own bodies sometimes. Please don't call yourself names you would never call anybody else!
Thank you for watching. I don't think any of us are calling ourselves names as personal put-downs. Self-deprecating humor is something a lot of people use, both among the panelists and in the world at large. The plus-sized community is not a monolith, and some people are perfectly comfortable using descriptors that others find very offensive or demeaning. And for me personally, there are things I can and do say about my own body that I would never even dream of saying about someone else. Everyone is different, and everyone uses language in a slightly different way.
On the topic of Regency... I don't like empire waists of any kind because they make me look like Slender Man. It is also why I don't like leggings.