Cool man. I just subbed! I did a complete 413 build series and did most of that. I was able to weasel the blue ones both in, but love filling in the rear cracks. That’s good insurance!
Yeah man I saw you subscribed. I very much appreciate it. Thank you! And yeah the last 440 I was working on was 8-9 years ago and was a nightmare for the rear main. Had a badly machined billet rear seal retainer and caused like 9 hours of pulling the pan, trying something, put back together. Watch it leak and go again. But we figured it out and got er beat after all. I hope you enjoy my videos, I'm enjoying yours. 🤘🏼
@@dazeofgloryshopworks5806 yes sir! I had to sand the rear seal cap on the 383 roadrunner I was working on. Gave the seal a little more squeeze I think.
@@JustMoparJoe for sure man. Whatever works! We found out that the seal groove was cut too deep and our fix was a couple strips from a plastic business card. Laid them in the saddle and then the seal. Like magic.. no more leak! Later we went back and replaced the billet one with an original and off she went. Heck of a time at it but you can't put a price on that kinda experience. Hahaha
@@dazeofgloryshopworks5806 Well dang, that's disappointing. Wish I saw this video sooner. Was it the mopar performance rear main kit or the mancini kit that gave you trouble? I just installed a mancini billet cap kit because I liked the side seal design and figured it would be better insurance. And I slightly staggered the seals. Now I'm second guessing myself. You think I should put the stock cap back in before I reinstall the engine? Thanks in advance.
You don’t have to run the engine to see if it’s going to leak. Fill full of oil, especially some thin synthetic. Hook to engine hoist tilting engine back and let her go. If she’s going to leak it will leak. Have seen many put together, put the engine in the car, fire it up and no leak. Oil does get thinner when hot but seals and rubber expand a lot more when hot and no signs of leak. Engine cools off, seal and rubber shrink then the engine starts to leak.
@@thechestnutking736 your point has a lot of merit. What is missing is the oil saturating above the crankshaft and into the top end where it can accumulate and oversaturate the seals. I prefer to run most of my stuff without the added cost of synthetic, and I have confidence in my practices. But I love your idea and may use it in the future.
@@dazeofgloryshopworks5806 I don’t run synthetic I just buy the cheapest, thinnest bulk I can find and use it to find my leak lol. I actually run Joe Gibbs Driven HR1 15w-50. I try to lean engine back just far enough to cover rear main seal after giving everything adequate time to dry.
@@thechestnutking736 I run Joe Gibbs as well and in my 408 stroker in my dart, I run the Val online VR1 20w50. Syn. Only rig I run synthetic in. It has the highest sheer strength of the available oils on the market and other than that, I love my Joe Gibbs oils. Been using them for years🤘🏼
Well the rtv isn't regular silicon but use whatever you're comfortable with. So many products out there will work just fine. Thanks for checking er out 🤘🏼
I’m about to do my very first rest main seal with the engine in the car. Do you find it is best to just use the RTV on the sides of the end cap or use just the seals that came with the kit or maybe a combination of both seal plus RTV?
I have done it both ways. Sometimes the neoprene side seals will not go into place and stay so I rather see you hoop up the channels and slide the rear main seal cap in place without them. It's a guaranteed seal. The side seals tend to walk back up when sliding the cap in place and leave a small gap for oil to worm its way through. Rtv all the way for me.
@@dazeofgloryshopworks5806 I appreciate your guidance. I have also read that some guys superglue the side seals in place first so they will not move when slid in.
Well... I've seen some nasty smear jobs on these big blocks. I really do hate the rear main setup in em. But yeah a little schmoo here and a dab there and they normally are good to go for a long time. Lol just nasty. I hate it.
Back in 1974 I redid a rear main on a Ford pickup, I believe it was a 351, so it didn't leak anymore, the guy worked at a Ford dealership and after it was fixed the dealership offered me a job, seems their mechanics couldn't fix it. But go ahead and tell me that other manufacturers don't have rear main seals leaks. Next thing I know you will be telling us that GM and Ford don't have cam and lifter failures on their newer engines. They all have issues; the idea is to find the solution and fix it.
Don't know how long ago you messaged but I will be honest with you, the engine hasn't been finished. Life and projects got in the way as usual. But rest assured, it will be completed in the next couple months and it is being installed in my buddys 68'dodge Monaco wagon. You'll know if it leaks as soon as we do! Hahaha thank you for checking the video out!!
Cool man. I just subbed! I did a complete 413 build series and did most of that. I was able to weasel the blue ones both in, but love filling in the rear cracks. That’s good insurance!
Yeah man I saw you subscribed. I very much appreciate it. Thank you! And yeah the last 440 I was working on was 8-9 years ago and was a nightmare for the rear main. Had a badly machined billet rear seal retainer and caused like 9 hours of pulling the pan, trying something, put back together. Watch it leak and go again. But we figured it out and got er beat after all. I hope you enjoy my videos, I'm enjoying yours. 🤘🏼
@@dazeofgloryshopworks5806 yes sir! I had to sand the rear seal cap on the 383 roadrunner I was working on. Gave the seal a little more squeeze I think.
@@JustMoparJoe for sure man. Whatever works! We found out that the seal groove was cut too deep and our fix was a couple strips from a plastic business card. Laid them in the saddle and then the seal. Like magic.. no more leak! Later we went back and replaced the billet one with an original and off she went. Heck of a time at it but you can't put a price on that kinda experience. Hahaha
@@dazeofgloryshopworks5806 I always wondered what the draw was of the aftermarket caps. I figured I’d stick to stock lol
@@dazeofgloryshopworks5806 Well dang, that's disappointing. Wish I saw this video sooner. Was it the mopar performance rear main kit or the mancini kit that gave you trouble? I just installed a mancini billet cap kit because I liked the side seal design and figured it would be better insurance. And I slightly staggered the seals. Now I'm second guessing myself. You think I should put the stock cap back in before I reinstall the engine? Thanks in advance.
Nice job! That baby should not give you any trouble.
Take it easy Dave👍
Another good one. Simple. Straight forward. Keep 'em comin'!
Thank you 🤘🏼. I'll do my best
Good stuff man!
Thank you very much
Looks great but have you run the engine to see the results?
Not this engine but two others yes. One of those is still together 10 years later and still no leaks. The other got pulled apart and sold. 👍🏼
You don’t have to run the engine to see if it’s going to leak. Fill full of oil, especially some thin synthetic. Hook to engine hoist tilting engine back and let her go. If she’s going to leak it will leak. Have seen many put together, put the engine in the car, fire it up and no leak. Oil does get thinner when hot but seals and rubber expand a lot more when hot and no signs of leak. Engine cools off, seal and rubber shrink then the engine starts to leak.
@@thechestnutking736 your point has a lot of merit. What is missing is the oil saturating above the crankshaft and into the top end where it can accumulate and oversaturate the seals. I prefer to run most of my stuff without the added cost of synthetic, and I have confidence in my practices. But I love your idea and may use it in the future.
@@dazeofgloryshopworks5806 I don’t run synthetic I just buy the cheapest, thinnest bulk I can find and use it to find my leak lol. I actually run Joe Gibbs Driven HR1 15w-50. I try to lean engine back just far enough to cover rear main seal after giving everything adequate time to dry.
@@thechestnutking736 I run Joe Gibbs as well and in my 408 stroker in my dart, I run the Val online VR1 20w50. Syn. Only rig I run synthetic in. It has the highest sheer strength of the available oils on the market and other than that, I love my Joe Gibbs oils. Been using them for years🤘🏼
I think im going too use Yamabond on the Sides rather than Silicone 🤔
Well the rtv isn't regular silicon but use whatever you're comfortable with. So many products out there will work just fine. Thanks for checking er out 🤘🏼
I’m about to do my very first rest main seal with the engine in the car. Do you find it is best to just use the RTV on the sides of the end cap or use just the seals that came with the kit or maybe a combination of both seal plus RTV?
I have done it both ways. Sometimes the neoprene side seals will not go into place and stay so I rather see you hoop up the channels and slide the rear main seal cap in place without them. It's a guaranteed seal. The side seals tend to walk back up when sliding the cap in place and leave a small gap for oil to worm its way through. Rtv all the way for me.
@@dazeofgloryshopworks5806 I appreciate your guidance. I have also read that some guys superglue the side seals in place first so they will not move when slid in.
@@mr.mcallister6502 I've not run across the superglue trick but I can see a benefit of it. Good to know. Thanks for sharing
Not being a Chrysler guy I just wanted to make sure I got this right. $15 worth of silicone and she is good, right?
Well... I've seen some nasty smear jobs on these big blocks. I really do hate the rear main setup in em. But yeah a little schmoo here and a dab there and they normally are good to go for a long time. Lol just nasty. I hate it.
@@dazeofgloryshopworks5806 Hard to beat what works even if Poindexter with the pocket protector, slide rule and thick glasses said you don't need it.
@@noccis3448 ain't that the truth!
Back in 1974 I redid a rear main on a Ford pickup, I believe it was a 351, so it didn't leak anymore, the guy worked at a Ford dealership and after it was fixed the dealership offered me a job, seems their mechanics couldn't fix it. But go ahead and tell me that other manufacturers don't have rear main seals leaks. Next thing I know you will be telling us that GM and Ford don't have cam and lifter failures on their newer engines. They all have issues; the idea is to find the solution and fix it.
New Subscriber here! I realize this is an older video, Did it leak?
Don't know how long ago you messaged but I will be honest with you, the engine hasn't been finished. Life and projects got in the way as usual. But rest assured, it will be completed in the next couple months and it is being installed in my buddys 68'dodge Monaco wagon. You'll know if it leaks as soon as we do! Hahaha thank you for checking the video out!!