How is the first panel attached on the left side (the outside corner). The trim piece placed at the end covers edge of panel, but I'm not seeing any mechanical connection of the panel to the OSB.
Good question - there are screws used to fasten the panel on the left side and then the 'long L' trim profile covers those screws. Let us know if we can help further - Mike
Yes - this product can be used in hot humid climates. Contact our office (877-668-5888) and we'll then email you information for the Marketing Director of our manufacturing partner - Mike
Yes - with these wall panels you can use any type of shower pan - whether it's grouted, or not. I would say most people who want walls without grout - don't want a tile pan - but not everybody. If we can help further don't hesitate to call us - 877-668-5888 - Mike
Mike, @11:55 Robb sets the second left side wall panel into position. During this process the left side of the first panel lifts off the wall surface because the only fasteners are in the groove at the right side of the panel. This lack of attachment shows again when he installs the edge trim @16:17. Is this side of the panel really left to flop around like a dying fish or is it attached to the wall somehow? I realize the shower door will help hold it in place but that hardly seems sufficient. Thanks for your response.
@@mikefoti2374 Thanks Mike, I did not catch that in the video. Great video by the way. We are just starting remodel plans for our house north of Fort Wayne, Indiana and I am really looking forward to getting the FIBO panels installed!
The process to install over a tub is the same as for a shower pan. You'll put your backer board (for your wall surround material) down to the flange (of the tub or shower pan) and then you'll screw the base profile into the backer board and put the wall panels down to the base profile. Then you'll see between the base profile and the tub (or shower). I hope this helps - Mike
We are installing solid quartz shower base. They do not have a flange. I was told by a Fibo rep this was ok. You all show a flange on your shower base. Can you explain if we need to take extra precaution since we do not have a flange on our base?
Kelly while you can install Fibo wall panels in a 'one level wet room' installation (with waterproofing behind the wall and on the floor) - a solid surface pan without a flange worries me. I think putting the flange onto the pan, then installing the wall panels in front of the flange is a safer way to go -and what we'd recommend to customers - Mike (877-668-5888)
@@InnovateBuildingSolutions ok so run fibos metal flange all the way to our solid surface pan and install fibo wall boards as usual? You all showed a 1/8” gap between pan and fibo flange. So just skip the gap? We plan on waterproofing under pan and up sides of wall before starting fibo.
@@kellykimchi Kelly - there is a detail in the Fibo installation guide on page 12 which will show how to approach this. Where you working with one of our team on your project? If so - I can have our rep call you - Mike
Absolutely Mallory- you need sealant between the bottom of the panels and the shower pan or tub deck. There's also a part called a 'base profile' the panels sit on at the bottom
First I'd make sure to put wood blocking behind the wall cavity to properly tie in your door. But the shower door would be installed after the wall panels are up. You'll screw holes through the wall panels - put the hybrid polymer sealant inside the holes and then fasten your door hardware.
Hi Erin! Thank you for your comment! The OSB won't wick up because you should have a tile flange attached to the base, then OSB backer should stop at the top of that base's tile flange. After that, then the base profile gets installed just off the curb of the base then the panels stack on top. So when everything is sealed in, there will be sealant from base profile to curb. If water gets behind there you still have the tile flange to keep it in the shower. I hope that helps but if you have further questions, please let us know! ^M
Recommended shower pan(s)? What about installing a shower niche, shower shelf, and/or shower bench with this product? Apologies if I missed videos on this.
Margaret - yes you can install a shower niche, shelf, window, or shower bench with this product. For the niche you'll need to cut the panel and the niche (which usually has flanges on it) - will go over the cuts. Also shelves aren't a problem - when the holes are cut - you'll use the hybrid polymer sealant provided with the kit inside the holes before inserting the screws. We're working on videos to show adding accessories - it's not live yet....but it's coming - Miek
I was told to miter the base profile but the video shows them butted together. Is that acceptable to just butt them? In the video the osb extends down almost to the shower pan. I installed mine to the top of the flange which is about one inch off the pan. The screws holes for the base profile barely catches the osb. I will have drill new holes higher up.
While you could use Schluter Kerdi (and then use the hybrid sealant behind the panels) - it really would add a lot of cost to the installation which would be unnecessary
These videos don't explain the importance that the walls all be very flat, in plane, across the entire surface, AND, very important that the inside corners like the two inside corner of a shower tub surround be dead on 90 degrees otherwise the metal corners will not work. Not smooth, but flat. These are two very different factors. My walls were off by 1-2 degrees and I could not insert the wall panels into the inside metal corners and then get the panels to sit flat and tight to the adjoining walls. Very critical and for some reason never mentioned anywhere.
Funny how you failed to talk about shimming the walls so that the osb will come down in front of the flange. Good luck getting the wall plumb at that point.
Thanks for your comment. You actually want the OSB to be about 1/8" above the flange of the shower pan (assuming there's a shower pan and not a one level wet room). Then the 'base profile' will go in front of the shower flange and you'll want to seal between the floor of the pan (or tub deck) and the base profile. You're correct in saying some shimming may be required depending on the condition of your walls - Mike
I get that screwing to wood is easier for installation but the key thing that’s stopping this from leaking behind is the caulking from down at pan to side of panel seals. Trusting only that silicone seal is not smart and something down the road could cause thousands of dollars and not to mention health issues from the mold if water got behind those panels which seems highly possible being it’s in a shower, the fact that you would not recommend proper water proofing behind these panels makes me concerned these walls are a little over 2k why wouldn’t you suggest added protection instead of advising it’s not needed the distributor install recommends screw to wood if it was all one solid piece but their not if you have seen what mold damage can do and cost putting that extra layer of waterproofing can be a life saver literally sad that’s not recommended. At least a foot up from the pan
Thanks for your feedback. There is not only silicone between the pan and the bottom of the panels - but there's also a base profile there and sealant is put behind the base profile as well. There's also a 'hidden inside corner profile' which is used in the corners as well as sealant in front of the profile. This system was developed by Fibo systems 41 years ago and has an extensive track record. In addition the panels are marine grade plywood. We have not had any warranties claims as well. If you'd like request free samples and/or come and see our displays in Cleveland and Columbus Ohio - seeing the product live - and learning about it's track record in Europe may help you to see this is a product which is built to last (plus the manufacturer provides a lifetime warranty). - Mike
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Absolutely fantastic video. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it.
Cato - I'm glad this video was of value to you! Mike
Glad it was of value to you!
How is the first panel attached on the left side (the outside corner). The trim piece placed at the end covers edge of panel, but I'm not seeing any mechanical connection of the panel to the OSB.
Good question - there are screws used to fasten the panel on the left side and then the 'long L' trim profile covers those screws. Let us know if we can help further - Mike
Can this be used on cement walls in a hot humid climate? Do you have rep in Puerto Rico?
Yes - this product can be used in hot humid climates. Contact our office (877-668-5888) and we'll then email you information for the Marketing Director of our manufacturing partner - Mike
I was called by one of my clients that wants to order these panels but wants me to do a tile shower pan (drypack) would these still work?
Yes - with these wall panels you can use any type of shower pan - whether it's grouted, or not. I would say most people who want walls without grout - don't want a tile pan - but not everybody. If we can help further don't hesitate to call us - 877-668-5888 - Mike
Mike, @11:55 Robb sets the second left side wall panel into position. During this process the left side of the first panel lifts off the wall surface because the only fasteners are in the groove at the right side of the panel. This lack of attachment shows again when he installs the edge trim @16:17. Is this side of the panel really left to flop around like a dying fish or is it attached to the wall somehow?
I realize the shower door will help hold it in place but that hardly seems sufficient. Thanks for your response.
The left side gets screwed in and then a trim profile goes over it - so it will be secure. Thanks for your question - Mike
@@mikefoti2374 Thanks Mike, I did not catch that in the video. Great video by the way. We are just starting remodel plans for our house north of Fort Wayne, Indiana and I am really looking forward to getting the FIBO panels installed!
Can you show me or how do we install for these panels over tub?
The process to install over a tub is the same as for a shower pan. You'll put your backer board (for your wall surround material) down to the flange (of the tub or shower pan) and then you'll screw the base profile into the backer board and put the wall panels down to the base profile. Then you'll see between the base profile and the tub (or shower). I hope this helps - Mike
We are installing solid quartz shower base. They do not have a flange. I was told by a Fibo rep this was ok. You all show a flange on your shower base. Can you explain if we need to take extra precaution since we do not have a flange on our base?
Kelly while you can install Fibo wall panels in a 'one level wet room' installation (with waterproofing behind the wall and on the floor) - a solid surface pan without a flange worries me. I think putting the flange onto the pan, then installing the wall panels in front of the flange is a safer way to go -and what we'd recommend to customers - Mike (877-668-5888)
@@InnovateBuildingSolutions ok so run fibos metal flange all the way to our solid surface pan and install fibo wall boards as usual? You all showed a 1/8” gap between pan and fibo flange. So just skip the gap? We plan on waterproofing under pan and up sides of wall before starting fibo.
@@kellykimchi Kelly - there is a detail in the Fibo installation guide on page 12 which will show how to approach this. Where you working with one of our team on your project? If so - I can have our rep call you - Mike
Do you add sealant around the bottom of the panels near the shower pan as well?
Absolutely Mallory- you need sealant between the bottom of the panels and the shower pan or tub deck. There's also a part called a 'base profile' the panels sit on at the bottom
how would you or where would you install a glass door using this product?thanks
First I'd make sure to put wood blocking behind the wall cavity to properly tie in your door. But the shower door would be installed after the wall panels are up. You'll screw holes through the wall panels - put the hybrid polymer sealant inside the holes and then fasten your door hardware.
@@mikefoti2374 thanks for the reply Mike
Wouldn’t moisture wick up the OSB base layer?
Hi Erin! Thank you for your comment! The OSB won't wick up because you should have a tile flange attached to the base, then OSB backer should stop at the top of that base's tile flange. After that, then the base profile gets installed just off the curb of the base then the panels stack on top. So when everything is sealed in, there will be sealant from base profile to curb. If water gets behind there you still have the tile flange to keep it in the shower.
I hope that helps but if you have further questions, please let us know! ^M
In this video the osb is not flush with drywall. How would I finish an edge where osb butts up to drywall? Thanks
John - there are a couple of different trim profiles (which come in brushed nickel, matte black and white finishes) which can be used for this - Mike
Recommended shower pan(s)? What about installing a shower niche, shower shelf, and/or shower bench with this product? Apologies if I missed videos on this.
Margaret - yes you can install a shower niche, shelf, window, or shower bench with this product. For the niche you'll need to cut the panel and the niche (which usually has flanges on it) - will go over the cuts. Also shelves aren't a problem - when the holes are cut - you'll use the hybrid polymer sealant provided with the kit inside the holes before inserting the screws. We're working on videos to show adding accessories - it's not live yet....but it's coming - Miek
I was told to miter the base profile but the video shows them butted together. Is that acceptable to just butt them? In the video the osb extends down almost to the shower pan. I installed mine to the top of the flange which is about one inch off the pan. The screws holes for the base profile barely catches the osb. I will have drill new holes higher up.
The base profiles can be butted together or mitered - either is OK - Mike
Mike,
How many screws would you use to attach the left side panel before installing the trim profile?
Thanks, Dan
Dan - we'd recommend 5 screws here.
Thank You
Would the Schluter Kerdi Board work?
While you could use Schluter Kerdi (and then use the hybrid sealant behind the panels) - it really would add a lot of cost to the installation which would be unnecessary
These videos don't explain the importance that the walls all be very flat, in plane, across the entire surface, AND, very important that the inside corners like the two inside corner of a shower tub surround be dead on 90 degrees otherwise the metal corners will not work. Not smooth, but flat. These are two very different factors. My walls were off by 1-2 degrees and I could not insert the wall panels into the inside metal corners and then get the panels to sit flat and tight to the adjoining walls. Very critical and for some reason never mentioned anywhere.
David - would you like for one of our operations people to contact you to explain there approach to this?
Funny how you failed to talk about shimming the walls so that the osb will come down in front of the flange. Good luck getting the wall plumb at that point.
Thanks for your comment. You actually want the OSB to be about 1/8" above the flange of the shower pan (assuming there's a shower pan and not a one level wet room). Then the 'base profile' will go in front of the shower flange and you'll want to seal between the floor of the pan (or tub deck) and the base profile. You're correct in saying some shimming may be required depending on the condition of your walls - Mike
I get that screwing to wood is easier for installation but the key thing that’s stopping this from leaking behind is the caulking from down at pan to side of panel seals. Trusting only that silicone seal is not smart and something down the road could cause thousands of dollars and not to mention health issues from the mold if water got behind those panels which seems highly possible being it’s in a shower, the fact that you would not recommend proper water proofing behind these panels makes me concerned these walls are a little over 2k why wouldn’t you suggest added protection instead of advising it’s not needed the distributor install recommends screw to wood if it was all one solid piece but their not if you have seen what mold damage can do and cost putting that extra layer of waterproofing can be a life saver literally sad that’s not recommended. At least a foot up from the pan
Thanks for your feedback. There is not only silicone between the pan and the bottom of the panels - but there's also a base profile there and sealant is put behind the base profile as well. There's also a 'hidden inside corner profile' which is used in the corners as well as sealant in front of the profile. This system was developed by Fibo systems 41 years ago and has an extensive track record. In addition the panels are marine grade plywood. We have not had any warranties claims as well. If you'd like request free samples and/or come and see our displays in Cleveland and Columbus Ohio - seeing the product live - and learning about it's track record in Europe may help you to see this is a product which is built to last (plus the manufacturer provides a lifetime warranty). - Mike