From an old retired machinist, try to keep the rpm (surface speed) down slower. About 60 surface feet per minute is about best for hole saws. It will make your hole saw last many many times longer. You can find the formula for surface feet in the machinist hand book or many other places. A drill press would make this job easier IF you had one! WD40 works excellent on aluminum, a high sulfur cutting fluid works far better on steel and can be purchased from industrial supplies or even most good auto part stores.
@Phil Perri evaporating is what sucks heat away. For oil to cool effectively it needs to flood. Though oil will reduce friction which helps a lot. I ran a big broach in a shop that had what amounted to a garden hose sized oil sprayer on it. Was 0.7 of an inch diameter orifice. 500 gallon bath. We used straight 30 WT oil. Detergent engine oil is a dessicant. That makes it bad for tools. It attracts water. WD-40 is Stoddard solvent or white spirit, or mineral turpentine with secret sauce added to it. Best men's cologne on the market!
mark lennox good call ! I’ve found that going low rpm/low speed it keeps the bit cooler and cuts more efficiently and you’re right the bit last so much longer ! Great tip sir !!
Man I wish I had a drill press, I've just got an old DeWalt NiCad hand drill and a small Olympia vise... At least I'd be able to do this with my setup.
Nice work kid! Its good to see a young man learning skills and sharing what he knows. So many kids these days have no clue how to actually make something. Pay attention to these comments and you'll develop your skills even more.
prefer young man, he is doing .....which is rare in the times we live in, I am little long in tooth but starting to learn metal, comments and suggestions from old timers are extremely valuable from my perspective, best to all
Instead of using a 1/4" bit in your mandrel, use a piece of 1/4" drill rod. This will stop the drill from enlarging your previously drilled holes. This is especially true if you are using thin walled tubing.
I am a die hard do it yourselfer and love building things without expensive machines but with a finished look of a pro. Thank you for sharing. People like you make the University of TH-cam a great place to learn!
Here's a tip for you, put some fiberglass insulation inside the hole saw and soak it in oil or trans fluid. It will save you a lot of WD 40 and keeps the hole saw cool.
+William Castleberry another tip would be trying to run somewhere close to the surface speed of HSS, and the material being cut. About 7 times faster than the recommended speed is probably a tad high I'd think. Also, fiberglass is usually pretty harsh on steel tools. There are cutting oils that cling better than WD-40 does too.
What the cool part about this, is the center to center, no math involved. Its exactly how you measured it on the jobsite to build at the shop. No adding and subtracting numbers and forgetting tube lengths. Brilliant!!
Wanted to thank you very much for this tutorial! Used your technique for a fabrication project just this morning and it rocked! Couldn't have done it without your help! Thank you!
That's called KNOWLEDGE and CORRECTING MISTAKES, not "hating". Telling someone to use cutting oil (instead of WD40, lol), runnng lower RPMs (instead of burning up a hole saw, lol) and to lay out the pipe correctly (instead of wasting a cut, lol) is not HATE, it's just smart. If someone is offended by being corrected when they are doing something wrong, too bad. Either listen or don't.
It is esentialy the same bit that comes from Eastwood. A couple of tricks that will speed up the process. Go to wall mart and buy the $20 18Volt cordless drill. Use them for your pilot holes. That way you dont have to change bits. Pack the hole saw with some fiberglass. Instead of WD-40 use 2 cycle oil. 2 cycle oil will leave lubricant where it gets hot unlike WD 40 and cutting oil. To clean up your cut you can buy the barrel sanding kit for about $10 that matches the Lennox bit. They use the barrel sander to smooth out the wood when setting a lock. Always use low RPM when cutting metal or it will skip and burn your bit. The 2 Cycle oil prevents this. Very good video
Dude. freaking awesome. So simple, yet ingenious! This has opened my mind to several things. thank you bro.You are a big help. Looks like the saddle was cut in a machine shop.
You did a great job with this video. Presentation, lighting, camera work was all really good. I am looking at the basics of notching and this video was a super introduction for those of us researching DIY knowledge without the specialized tools available (at this time) for ways to get it done at home. Thanks for posting this.
I’ve never used cutting oil or WD-40 but Original 3 in 1 Oil works amazing. I’ve saved lots of blades and drill bits over the years. I don’t have a drill press and don’t have the permanent space for one so this hack does the job for people like me. Keep on keeping on buddy.
This method is awesome!!! I finally found where you specified at 6:30 the size of the pipe, and what hole saw size you ultimately used. You should notate this info in the notes...quite handy info.
Good video, but you should make some pipe jaw caps for your vice using angle iron which can be easily put on and take off, the pipe can slip from those vice jaws when you put force on it while drill.
Nice video! I see that plenty of folks have already suggested getting a drill press; so I won't bother. LO-BUCK makes a fairly decent notcher ... but it can be a pain in the ass to set up and change dies, and you will have to anchor it down to a really big, thick and heavy piece of iron. Ultimately, you will need to spend the $$$ on a nice pipe notcher with dies; it will cost you but they will last forever and serve you very well through all thickness of pipe and tube. I was expecting to see a video by some wanna-be who has some small skill and thinks he knows it all; but I was pleasantly surprised by this professional young man, who presents himself and expresses himself very well, who clearly takes pride in his work and does a great job maintaining his work space, and who is not afraid to expand into new areas and take his business to new levels. Good for you, kid! Keep up the good work!
whenever the internet trolls would say theres 10 of minutes of my life ill never get back, i prefer say theres 10 minutes of schooling ill use for many years to come, great video tutorial, thanks.
+Hakasauars.... nope, I'm sure the 3rd minute of any video is rarely seen... more than likely in the process of destroying evidence of the massacre of 5mil babies
Great! Simple! I was knocking around with the 6 & 12 O'Clock as a way to get this cut, but have absolutely no idea, why I didn't think of using the Hole Saw like that! Excellent!!!!!! Thanks very much!!!!!
1/8" oversize holesaw because tubing size is often quoted by the INTERNAL measurement, a plumbing industry standard. Your techniques are a little rough, but effective. Thanks for sharing
Hey, good video partner, it does what it is supposed to do, gives someone with no knowledge the basics. Only thing I would say (and others below have already stated) use regular cutting oil which will make your saw stay sharper longer and slow down the rpm's on your cutter. The rule is the bigger the bore, the slower the speed. You can twist a 1/8 inch bit really fast and get results, not so much on a 1 1/8 bit though, it needs to be going much slower. That applies even though technically a hole saw is not a drill but the principle is the same. Good job!
Thank you for putting this video out a lot of people needed to know that how to do this but remember your used motor oil is the best tapping oil you can buy 🤘😎🤘
+rudedude13 I can tell you the precise speed that 1 7/8" hole saw should run. 210 RPM. That will net you a surface speed of 103 feet per minute. Which is just about ideal.
Rudy Lanteigne Here's some formulas. (PI * DIA. * RPM) / 12 = SFPM (Surface Feet Per Minute) Diameter is in inches. A formula to calculate RPM for a given diameter, and surface speed SFPM * (12 / PI) / DIA = RPM Although for ballparking it I have a chart hanging in my shop too. But for goofy stuff like that hole saw I use the formula. HSS on mild steel is 100 SFPM optimal speed.
There is 'cutting oil', (great name) that works extremely well for cutting steel. also works well as a drill lubricant. WD40 works well to sell more holesaws, drills, etc.
Wow! I've been searching for a good, reliable method for saddling pipe(s). This is awesome! Thank you so much for this, for sure I'll be giving this method a go! Great video tutorial, by the way! Subscribed! 👍
Great video. But I really think the use of cutting oil should be stressed in place of the WD40. If you're doing this on the "can't afford a drill press budget, then not burning up hole saws makes the extra few bucks for cutting oil a good investment.
Old video so you probably won't read this but I'd use a 1/4" solid steel rod instead of a drill bit because you already have the 1.4" holes drilled. That way, the drill bit won't "waller-out" the 1/4" pre-drilled pilot holes. Thanks for the video! It was spot-on!
7 ปีที่แล้ว +13
Nice job...good looking bars. Better off with cutting oil. Greatly extends ur bit and hole cutter life.
So after reading some comments I thought I would add a few. I think this is great and it seemed to work well. No it's not for every angle and no it may not be perfectly square. I think this tip is for the beginner and I think it's a good place to start. They only thing I would change is to use a cutting oil. Thanks for the tip.
@@514orbigger88, make your two 45 degree cuts on the chop saw. Viewed from above, you have a mitered cylinder, ready to plug into a v-notch cut into a similar cylinder. Viewed from the side, the tube has a semi-circular void in the end, which will apparently fit over that other, similar cylinder. I say apparently, because this is true for cylinders with an infinitely thin wall thickness. The wall of your tubing, be it 0.082" or whatever, will need to be ground away to fit perfectly on the surface of the mating tube. In carpentry terms, this is similar to scribing one molding to another, say a baseboard at an inside corner.
Great tip on going with an 1/8” over hole saw. I’m sure that I’m not the only one that experiences breaking the hole saw center drill. I have a mandrel set up with a grade 8 hex head bolt that has the head and threads cut off. You’ll never break the pilot again. Of coarse, you have to predrill your workpiece like in the video.
I have notched tubing that way before, I clamped it to angle iron in a vice to keep level. Nice job on multiple hole layed out on pipe, never did it that way.
Wow Tim that's awesome... Some times it can either be as hard or as easy as will let it be right... Fancy high end jigs are nice and all but there's something to be said for being able to do the same task with less equipment... Thanks for taking the time to share this video. Joe
I know nothing about the work you do. But from watching your video I was able to cut and fit 2-inch steel pipes together, perfectly, to finish a support stand for a 265-lb anvil. SO, you should seriously consider selling hardware for this work. If you make a list of how you could do this better and easier, and then consider other tools like drill press, custom but simple vises, etc. you could sell all this. I'm not an expert, but the way I see it is, it I had a drill/drill-press, some sort of "compass" to fasten onto pipes for various angles of attachment cuts, and the hardware, there is nothing that couldn't be done. Very impressive.
I like your idea of using the hole saw. Quick tip: You will add life to the sharpness of your saw if you use general purpose cutting oil (preferably with sulfur if cutting stainless) instead of WD-40. Fastenal has 1 gallon containers if you have one locally. Otherwise you could shop around and order it online. Your cutting tools will last longer. The best use for WD-40 should be used as a lubricant for cutting aluminum.
cool way to cope the ends. never seen anyone use a drill to cut em before. I have seen using a grinder with the 45. I weld round bail feeders and gates for a living and I've even used a hammer to basically fold the ends over for the notch. lot of different ways to get it done. but for real, in all the 28 years I been welding, I have never seen anyone use a drill. that's awesome.
What a really clean job on your rock sliders. I always hunt around for good tutorials on TH-cam and glad that I ran up on yours. You did a great job on your video. Also, your welding makes me jealous. I would like to see a video on your pipe bender. I purchased a Harbor Freight bender, but unless you fill the tubing with sand and cap the ends, it just crimps. Yours looks more like one that pulls the tubing around the bend. Great Job!
Get a piece of 1/4" drill-rod 8" long. Grind a flat on one side for the setscrew inside the hole saw mandrell. Chamfer both ends. Use this instead of a drill bit. Pre-drill all your pilot holes and use this configuration. Perfect lineup every time. Thanks for your video. Also, you can use a piece of 2" x 2" angle-iron on each end of a 90 degree boring block and drill perfect holes in pipe. Thanks again! Oh and try Crisco Shortening for cutting lube. Also is good for tapping and threading. (I've been a machinist 50 years).
Dude you can get the same thing with a chop saw you started at 22 and a half degrees and start cutting quick easy simple been doing it for years as a welder fabricator
You don't need any of this. You can cut perfect joints every time with a cutting blade on a four inch grinder. It even works with any angle. I think the fabricator has a video on this. Search TH-cam for the fabricator and cutting notches and it should come up.
hey thanks for the info great video man I can build my own roof rack now without paying thousands of dollars to those companies all I need now is this information a welding machine and a lot of measurements all your videos are always very helpful thank you guys
nice work but problem is cutting edge. if you weld on edge right now welding bid is not penetrate whole pipe thick. welding on thinist edge is dangerous and useless. it will accidentally brake out someday. especially shock absorbing bikes body. so you grind out edge to reverse edge. so called bevel angle. then welding bid is fulfilled main pipe and son pipe. it will ensure strength of bid.
I'm pretty sure you did not invent this technique,,, but you sure do make it look easy Thank you for sharing this method. I intend to make the best of it as I am very new to welding ..
For this application you do not need nor want the "lubrication" properties of a cutting fluid, what you only need is cooling effect, water would work perfect, on the other hand, if you are cutting a thread, say using a tap and die, then yes, that's where lubrication comes to play
use a cutting oil and for stainless , slow and steady wins the race. high rpm's overheat the stainless and will chew your hole saws up as fast as u can switch them out. otherwise not too bad of a video
+He Ka sorry. i didn't read or hear aluminum anywhere. if it is aluminum that's a shitty slow cut. also, imho a cutting oil would be a better choice over a penetrating oil. i would say wd-40 would be the worst option. a simple candle or soap would work better than wd-40
+He Ka The tubing in this video is ERW mild steel tubing. WD-40 is more than 99% petroleum. The issue of using cutting oil on aluminum is that the sulfur content of the cutting oil will darken the aluminum surface finish, but a scotch-brite pad quickly and easily removes the dark stain.
I use a drill press and a wd40 drip system that i made myself that drops 2 drips per every 3 seconds to keep every thiing cool and a catch tank to recycle the wd40 many times over,but your idea is also a good one. Thanks for all the good videos.
WD-40 is not a lubricant. use oil. WD means "Water Displacement". The 40 is for the fortieth formula they tried. It's a great penetrant but never use it to lubricate...or cutting fluid.
+Larry Maloney Yep... the WD40 folks made most their $$ from a misunderstanding of exactly what WD40 is. Most people think it's a lubricant but, it's not. It's the 40th attempt to make a good water displacement solvent.
+Tommy Rad , I was Plant Maintenance Superintendent in a tube fabricating company that used robots for welding. The axis bearings kept failing and production was way behind. I viewed (from a distance) to confirm my suspicions that the operators on 3rd shift were spraying WD-40 on all the bearings. I witnessed it and before the night was over the machine had failed (again). I still had problems convincing others not to use the stuff as a lubricant. Even management believed it was "good oil". The inverse is just as true. For thirty years I used Mobil 1 (a synthetic lubricant) whenever I could in an engine or gear box or transmission and as the machinery grew old they maintained their factory machined tolerances. Still today mechanics recommend users to drain their good synthetic oil from their vehicles simply because the owner's manual says "replace every 3K miles". Use a quality synthetic oil and you'll grow tired of the car before you wear it out. Automotive filters are way behind times. Most, even the brand names, are poor filters. So bad, in fact none reveal their micron rating (the standard measure of a filters' ability to remove contaminants.) It's all about marketing. Most car owners would be well served to use a synthetic and change the filter twice for every synthetic oil change. You see, technically oil never wears out. It either gets contaminated or uses up its additives. Smart long haul drivers add back the additives and keep filtering the oil for hundreds of thousands of miles keeping costs down on operating their eighteen wheelers.
Larry Maloney Spraying WD on greased bearings? NOT good. Basically, washing all the lube [grease] out. Wow! I have to say, I'm blown away by just how ill-informed people are... every day. Apathy... it's killing us. And you are 100% on target with the oil change issue. Cheers!
I build traction bars for 3 trucks using a Harbor Freight cheapo portable bandsaw with a metal blade in it. I learned the trick from reading Pirate 4x4's forum on how to notch tubing with a chop saw. IMHO it's faster and easier than this vid, but yours works just fine too. Just throwing out another idea for folks to tuck into their bag of tricks :) Good video!
A simple tip I got from an old friend when drilling or boarding stainless use use turps or white spirit as a coolant Keep up the good work kind regards Sean from the Burren west of Ireland
Holly shit that was funny! "I'm going to teach you how to notch tubing effectively and ALMOST efficiently" I'm still laughing my ass off. Great video tho!
From an old retired machinist, try to keep the rpm (surface speed) down slower. About 60 surface feet per minute is about best for hole saws. It will make your hole saw last many many times longer. You can find the formula for surface feet in the machinist hand book or many other places. A drill press would make this job easier IF you had one! WD40 works excellent on aluminum, a high sulfur cutting fluid works far better on steel and can be purchased from industrial supplies or even most good auto part stores.
Yes a wood or steel jig on a drillpress table
@Phil Perri evaporating is what sucks heat away. For oil to cool effectively it needs to flood. Though oil will reduce friction which helps a lot. I ran a big broach in a shop that had what amounted to a garden hose sized oil sprayer on it. Was 0.7 of an inch diameter orifice. 500 gallon bath. We used straight 30 WT oil. Detergent engine oil is a dessicant. That makes it bad for tools. It attracts water. WD-40 is Stoddard solvent or white spirit, or mineral turpentine with secret sauce added to it. Best men's cologne on the market!
It's actually "The Machinery's Handbook."
mark lennox good call ! I’ve found that going low rpm/low speed it keeps the bit cooler and cuts more efficiently and you’re right the bit last so much longer ! Great tip sir !!
Man I wish I had a drill press, I've just got an old DeWalt NiCad hand drill and a small Olympia vise... At least I'd be able to do this with my setup.
Good lord it's great to see a young man working in a garage. It gives me some hope for the future
Nice work kid! Its good to see a young man learning skills and sharing what he knows. So many kids these days have no clue how to actually make something. Pay attention to these comments and you'll develop your skills even more.
prefer young man, he is doing .....which is rare in the times we live in, I am little long in tooth but starting to learn metal, comments and suggestions from old timers are extremely valuable from my perspective, best to all
Instead of using a 1/4" bit in your mandrel, use a piece of 1/4" drill rod. This will stop the drill from enlarging your previously drilled holes. This is especially true if you are using thin walled tubing.
For a young fella starting out with limited tools I think you've done a good job
I am a die hard do it yourselfer and love building things without expensive machines but with a finished look of a pro. Thank you for sharing. People like you make the University of TH-cam a great place to learn!
The life-hack about using a holesaw 1/8" oversize was good, I'm going to benefit from your trial & error, thanks
Good video, straight to work without over explaining and no annoying background music. Well done kid.
Here's a tip for you, put some fiberglass insulation inside the hole saw and soak it in oil or trans fluid. It will save you a lot of WD 40 and keeps the hole saw cool.
+William Castleberry Interesting idea. I will give it a try.
+William Castleberry Great tip, never heard that before. definitely trying that
nice one !
+William Castleberry another tip would be trying to run somewhere close to the surface speed of HSS, and the material being cut. About 7 times faster than the recommended speed is probably a tad high I'd think. Also, fiberglass is usually pretty harsh on steel tools. There are cutting oils that cling better than WD-40 does too.
+William Castleberry Sweet..
F the haters.... I'm a welder and I loved this video thanks buddy ... liked and subscribed
1/8 " over tubing size was something to remember for me . Really good job , especially doing it with cordless drill .
wait ,i just realized the over size added in
is ,,, the wall thickness added to each other
What the cool part about this, is the center to center, no math involved. Its exactly how you measured it on the jobsite to build at the shop. No adding and subtracting numbers and forgetting tube lengths. Brilliant!!
Wanted to thank you very much for this tutorial! Used your technique for a fabrication project just this morning and it rocked! Couldn't have done it without your help! Thank you!
Young and smart.... You have a good future ahead of you.
I watched this video five years ago and just ran across it again
I must say!!!! Very good job cutting the tubes... This old man now has a new trick.
Good job man. Forget the haters that never touched a tool in their life but have all the solutions.
That's called KNOWLEDGE and CORRECTING MISTAKES, not "hating". Telling someone to use cutting oil (instead of WD40, lol), runnng lower RPMs (instead of burning up a hole saw, lol) and to lay out the pipe correctly (instead of wasting a cut, lol) is not HATE, it's just smart. If someone is offended by being corrected when they are doing something wrong, too bad. Either listen or don't.
It is esentialy the same bit that comes from Eastwood. A couple of tricks that will speed up the process. Go to wall mart and buy the $20 18Volt cordless drill. Use them for your pilot holes. That way you dont have to change bits. Pack the hole saw with some fiberglass. Instead of WD-40 use 2 cycle oil. 2 cycle oil will leave lubricant where it gets hot unlike WD 40 and cutting oil. To clean up your cut you can buy the barrel sanding kit for about $10 that matches the Lennox bit. They use the barrel sander to smooth out the wood when setting a lock. Always use low RPM when cutting metal or it will skip and burn your bit. The 2 Cycle oil prevents this.
Very good video
Great!!!!
I recently had to cut apart and rebuild some horse corral pipes. I used this method and it delivered a real good looking and strong finished product.
Dude. freaking awesome. So simple, yet ingenious! This has opened my mind to several things. thank you bro.You are a big help. Looks like the saddle was cut in a machine shop.
You did a great job with this video. Presentation, lighting, camera work was all really good. I am looking at the basics of notching and this video was a super introduction for those of us researching DIY knowledge without the specialized tools available (at this time) for ways to get it done at home. Thanks for posting this.
this is the second time I've learned something from your videos.
Thank you. You're awesome.
I’ve never used cutting oil or WD-40 but Original 3 in 1 Oil works amazing. I’ve saved lots of blades and drill bits over the years. I don’t have a drill press and don’t have the permanent space for one so this hack does the job for people like me. Keep on keeping on buddy.
I’m an old rooster 61 learning from a young rooster, awesome .
Thanks very much.
This method is awesome!!! I finally found where you specified at 6:30 the size of the pipe, and what hole saw size you ultimately used. You should notate this info in the notes...quite handy info.
Good video, but you should make some pipe jaw caps for your vice using angle iron which can be easily put on and take off, the pipe can slip from those vice jaws when you put force on it while drill.
Nice video! I see that plenty of folks have already suggested getting a drill press; so I won't bother. LO-BUCK makes a fairly decent notcher ... but it can be a pain in the ass to set up and change dies, and you will have to anchor it down to a really big, thick and heavy piece of iron. Ultimately, you will need to spend the $$$ on a nice pipe notcher with dies; it will cost you but they will last forever and serve you very well through all thickness of pipe and tube.
I was expecting to see a video by some wanna-be who has some small skill and thinks he knows it all; but I was pleasantly surprised by this professional young man, who presents himself and expresses himself very well, who clearly takes pride in his work and does a great job maintaining his work space, and who is not afraid to expand into new areas and take his business to new levels.
Good for you, kid! Keep up the good work!
whenever the internet trolls would say theres 10 of minutes of my life ill never get back, i prefer say theres 10 minutes of schooling ill use for many years to come, great video tutorial, thanks.
+carolina cruisers awesome, thanks for watching!
+carolina cruisers I bet you'll never find that same troll saying that on a porn website
+BleepinJeep Nice video. the only thing I comment on is try to find Boe-lube. it's awesome stuff for cutting metal. all types.
+Hakasauars.... nope, I'm sure the 3rd minute of any video is rarely seen... more than likely in the process of destroying evidence of the massacre of 5mil babies
Those trolls dont ever need those 10 min back ...Their partners complain they only last 30 seconds ...😆😂
And they need viagrrrra 🐯😉
Enjoy life🐾✨
Just the video I needed to find. About to undertake my first rock bars and rock sliders.
Drill a longer piece of pipe in the middle instead of the end and you'll have two notched pieces ready to go.
Tom, he demonstrates that quite clearly, already!
he does
Great! Simple! I was knocking around with the 6 & 12 O'Clock as a way to get this cut, but have absolutely no idea, why I didn't think of using the Hole Saw like that! Excellent!!!!!!
Thanks very much!!!!!
Some thing else to help you transfer the holes along length of tube and keep them inline. Use a length of angle iron held against the tube.
He had that speed square right there that would have worked.
very good young men i'm glad to see young people doing this kind of work
The drillbit angle is giving me anxiety, and I don’t have anxiety!
1/8" oversize holesaw because tubing size is often quoted by the INTERNAL measurement, a plumbing industry standard. Your techniques are a little rough, but effective. Thanks for sharing
thanks for your suggestion, on a low budget tube notching .I did it totally works.
Hey, good video partner, it does what it is supposed to do, gives someone with no knowledge the basics. Only thing I would say (and others below have already stated) use regular cutting oil which will make your saw stay sharper longer and slow down the rpm's on your cutter. The rule is the bigger the bore, the slower the speed. You can twist a 1/8 inch bit really fast and get results, not so much on a 1 1/8 bit though, it needs to be going much slower. That applies even though technically a hole saw is not a drill but the principle is the same. Good job!
nice looking connection. speaking for myself cutting oil would be a good choice rather than WD. great video thanks for sharing also nice project
Smart simple solution for notching by hand, with just the basic tools, thank you for sharing. Using the center bit for a guide, simple but genius!
I had no idea at first what he was doing, then I realized how cool this is
tigergreg8 and then you should have realized that it only works on 90 degrees notching....
Thank you for putting this video out a lot of people needed to know that how to do this but remember your used motor oil is the best tapping oil you can buy 🤘😎🤘
do yourself a favor.. get the drill press attachement.. run WAY lower Rpms... gonna have longer lasting hole saw.
and lenox is probly the best i used. best bang for the buck anyways
+rudedude13 absolutely, the bigger the diameter, the slower...speed the where the friction occurs grow exponentially as the diameter grows..
+rudedude13 I can tell you the precise speed that 1 7/8" hole saw should run. 210 RPM. That will net you a surface speed of 103 feet per minute. Which is just about ideal.
+Paul Frederick i dont have the charts in front of me but it sounds right
Rudy Lanteigne
Here's some formulas. (PI * DIA. * RPM) / 12 = SFPM (Surface Feet Per Minute) Diameter is in inches. A formula to calculate RPM for a given diameter, and surface speed SFPM * (12 / PI) / DIA = RPM Although for ballparking it I have a chart hanging in my shop too. But for goofy stuff like that hole saw I use the formula. HSS on mild steel is 100 SFPM optimal speed.
I'm building a crown vic dune buggy and I'm glad I saw your tip about going up 1/8", works wonders!!
There is 'cutting oil', (great name) that works extremely well for cutting steel. also works well as a drill lubricant. WD40 works well to sell more holesaws, drills, etc.
😅
I wish that I would have known this back in the 90s when we built street stock dirt stockcars. That's awesome! I subscribed
I'm not an off road guy, but I found this super helpful. Thanks!
Wow! I've been searching for a good, reliable method for saddling pipe(s). This is awesome! Thank you so much for this, for sure I'll be giving this method a go! Great video tutorial, by the way! Subscribed! 👍
Great video. But I really think the use of cutting oil should be stressed in place of the WD40. If you're doing this on the "can't afford a drill press budget, then not burning up hole saws makes the extra few bucks for cutting oil a good investment.
@Patrick Swayze how about you go back to the Roadhouse and shut up, you sexy beyotch.
Always great to see how people do what they do.
There is hope for this generation! A+ bro
Old video so you probably won't read this but I'd use a 1/4" solid steel rod instead of a drill bit because you already have the 1.4" holes drilled. That way, the drill bit won't "waller-out" the 1/4" pre-drilled pilot holes. Thanks for the video! It was spot-on!
Nice job...good looking bars.
Better off with cutting oil. Greatly extends ur bit and hole cutter life.
So after reading some comments I thought I would add a few. I think this is great and it seemed to work well. No it's not for every angle and no it may not be perfectly square. I think this tip is for the beginner and I think it's a good place to start. They only thing I would change is to use a cutting oil. Thanks for the tip.
Wow, that's a great idea. Get yourself a tube of cutting oil, it should make your job a little easier than the wd 40
Good job bud,that's a cool idea,because we all don't have fancy super expensive cutting tables and water jets,so kudos to you my friend,great job.
2 cuts and less than 1 minute with a chop saw set at 45 degree angle...perfect notch I use all the time.
How do you make a "perfect" notch with a chop saw? Especially with only 2 cuts? I can see how you could make a V notch, but not a round notch.
@@514orbigger88 Geometry, as also pointed out by Paul Ferderick elsewhere in these comments.
Ok??.. I dont see my question answered.. How DO you make a perfect notch in 2 cuts?
@@514orbigger88, make your two 45 degree cuts on the chop saw. Viewed from above, you have a mitered cylinder, ready to plug into a v-notch cut into a similar cylinder. Viewed from the side, the tube has a semi-circular void in the end, which will apparently fit over that other, similar cylinder. I say apparently, because this is true for cylinders with an infinitely thin wall thickness. The wall of your tubing, be it 0.082" or whatever, will need to be ground away to fit perfectly on the surface of the mating tube. In carpentry terms, this is similar to scribing one molding to another, say a baseboard at an inside corner.
Great tip on going with an 1/8” over hole saw. I’m sure that I’m not the only one that experiences breaking the hole saw center drill. I have a mandrel set up with a grade 8 hex head bolt that has the head and threads cut off. You’ll never break the pilot again. Of coarse, you have to predrill your workpiece like in the video.
Im thinking a drill press would work better or save your hole saw from dulling
This is a very nice technique and simple. Looks like the cuts become guides long with the predrilled holes. Very nice tip.
Show de bola meu brother, muito obrigado pela explicações! Muito bom mesmo.
I have notched tubing that way before, I clamped it to angle iron in a vice to keep level. Nice job on multiple hole layed out on pipe, never did it that way.
Bill Fisher angle iron is a great tip!
A decent drill press, and a v block would save you a pile of time.
Brainmalfuction idiot! Your Brain...
Brainmalfuction m k
Robert B. Why would a guy that "probably doesn't even have a mig welder" be notching tube?
Drill press, v-block, hole saw @ 600 rpm, cutting oil. Hole saw will last a lot longer.
jhitt79 ....he may have a stick welder
Wow Tim that's awesome... Some times it can either be as hard or as easy as will let it be right... Fancy high end jigs are nice and all but there's something to be said for being able to do the same task with less equipment... Thanks for taking the time to share this video. Joe
wd-40 is not a lubricant, use "real" cutting oil instead ....
was thinking the same thing
blah blah FOR CHEAP!
Rather than cutting oil or WD-40, spray the hole cutter teeth with water. All you need to do it cool the hole cutter teeth.
Mark G b
Ahhh. A man of few words.
Nice, I didn't know you could plow through with a hole saw that fast. Nice tools man
Chop saw is faster. Cut the end at 45° to the center of the pipe.
So true Tom and there is so little material wastage. Also the angle saves beveling to get a full penetration weld. But each to their own.
I know nothing about the work you do. But from watching your video I was able to cut and fit 2-inch steel pipes together, perfectly, to finish a support stand for a 265-lb anvil. SO, you should seriously consider selling hardware for this work. If you make a list of how you could do this better and easier, and then consider other tools like drill press, custom but simple vises, etc. you could sell all this.
I'm not an expert, but the way I see it is, it I had a drill/drill-press, some sort of "compass" to fasten onto pipes for various angles of attachment cuts, and the hardware, there is nothing that couldn't be done.
Very impressive.
not for this application you dont need a drill press. what he is doing this is fine.
I like your idea of using the hole saw.
Quick tip: You will add life to the sharpness of your saw if you use general purpose cutting oil (preferably with sulfur if cutting stainless) instead of WD-40. Fastenal has 1 gallon containers if you have one locally. Otherwise you could shop around and order it online. Your cutting tools will last longer. The best use for WD-40 should be used as a lubricant for cutting aluminum.
Very good for doing it at home like that I like it.
cool way to cope the ends. never seen anyone use a drill to cut em before. I have seen using a grinder with the 45. I weld round bail feeders and gates for a living and I've even used a hammer to basically fold the ends over for the notch. lot of different ways to get it done. but for real, in all the 28 years I been welding, I have never seen anyone use a drill. that's awesome.
I wonder If I could use the hole saw with my drill press to cut angles the same way
Sounds like a great idea.
What a really clean job on your rock sliders. I always hunt around for good tutorials on TH-cam and glad that I ran up on yours. You did a great job on your video. Also, your welding makes me jealous. I would like to see a video on your pipe bender. I purchased a Harbor Freight bender, but unless you fill the tubing with sand and cap the ends, it just crimps. Yours looks more like one that pulls the tubing around the bend. Great Job!
Damn! I been using bee's wax all these years for drilling and cutting!
Get a piece of 1/4" drill-rod 8" long. Grind a flat on one side for the setscrew inside the hole saw mandrell. Chamfer both ends. Use this instead of a drill bit. Pre-drill all your pilot holes and use this configuration. Perfect lineup every time. Thanks for your video. Also, you can use a piece of 2" x 2" angle-iron on each end of a 90 degree boring block and drill perfect holes in pipe. Thanks again! Oh and try Crisco Shortening for cutting lube. Also is good for tapping and threading. (I've been a machinist 50 years).
Dude you can get the same thing with a chop saw you started at 22 and a half degrees and start cutting quick easy simple been doing it for years as a welder fabricator
As I watched him use the hole saw with a hand drill two words came to mind - drill press!
Old Tibetan guys also say, "More oil Captain ... more oil!"
I learned something, thank you
Great idea. I just built a quick and dirty roof rack from EMT and this would have sped things up quite a bit.
You don't need any of this. You can cut perfect joints every time with a cutting blade on a four inch grinder. It even works with any angle. I think the fabricator has a video on this. Search TH-cam for the fabricator and cutting notches and it should come up.
we have a video on it as well.
th-cam.com/video/sCO5m9uWGuU/w-d-xo.html
Imautoober Shooter
Imautoober Shooter
Imautoober Shooter joint? lol
hey thanks for the info
great video man
I can build my own roof rack now
without paying thousands of dollars to those companies
all I need now is this information a welding machine and a lot of measurements
all your videos are always very helpful thank you guys
nice work but problem is cutting edge. if you weld on edge right now welding bid is not penetrate whole pipe thick. welding on thinist edge is dangerous and useless. it will accidentally brake out someday. especially shock absorbing bikes body. so you grind out edge to reverse edge. so called bevel angle. then welding bid is fulfilled main pipe and son pipe. it will ensure strength of bid.
good info, thanks!
Jongsoo Kim tubing not pipe,tubing is structural, pipe is made for water and gas where the pressure is on the inside
Amazing demonstration brother keep up the good work God bless sir!
Excellent technique but it was painful to watch knowing that you most likely have a drill press.
Great Training! You are easy to follow start to finish! That's how people learn. Thanks.
You shouldn't use WD-40 for that. Cutting oil is a much better lubricant for that. Also, a drill press would go a long way and be a lot better.
I'm pretty sure you did not invent this technique,,, but you sure do make it look easy
Thank you for sharing this method. I intend to make the best of it as I am very new to welding ..
wouldn't cutting oil be better
Yes youre correct...wd 40 is not lubricous👽
For this application you do not need nor want the "lubrication" properties of a cutting fluid, what you only need is cooling effect, water would work perfect, on the other hand, if you are cutting a thread, say using a tap and die, then yes, that's where lubrication comes to play
Handy tip! Will likely be using it this weekend!
Excelente trabajo amigos, gracias por todo, saludos desde Bogota - Colombia
use a cutting oil and for stainless , slow and steady wins the race. high rpm's overheat the stainless and will chew your hole saws up as fast as u can switch them out. otherwise not too bad of a video
+Ben Derpinghaus It was aluminium. You don't use oil on aluminium.
+He Ka sorry. i didn't read or hear aluminum anywhere. if it is aluminum that's a shitty slow cut. also, imho a cutting oil would be a better choice over a penetrating oil. i would say wd-40 would be the worst option. a simple candle or soap would work better than wd-40
Ben Derpinghaus Well it looks, sounds and acts like aluminium. You need pretty much petroleum for cutting aluminium and WD40 is 1/4 petroleum.
+He Ka
The tubing in this video is ERW mild steel tubing.
WD-40 is more than 99% petroleum.
The issue of using cutting oil on aluminum is that the sulfur content of the cutting oil will darken the aluminum surface finish, but a scotch-brite pad quickly and easily removes the dark stain.
+patw52pb1 Ok.. my bad.
I use a drill press and a wd40 drip system that i made myself that drops 2 drips per every 3 seconds to keep every thiing cool and a catch tank to recycle the wd40 many times over,but your idea is also a good one. Thanks for all the good videos.
WD-40 is not a lubricant. use oil. WD means "Water Displacement". The 40 is for the fortieth formula they tried. It's a great penetrant but never use it to lubricate...or cutting fluid.
+Larry Maloney Yep... the WD40 folks made most their $$ from a misunderstanding of exactly what WD40 is. Most people think it's a lubricant but, it's not. It's the 40th attempt to make a good water displacement solvent.
+Tommy Rad , I was Plant Maintenance Superintendent in a tube fabricating company that used robots for welding. The axis bearings kept failing and production was way behind. I viewed (from a distance) to confirm my suspicions that the operators on 3rd shift were spraying WD-40 on all the bearings. I witnessed it and before the night was over the machine had failed (again). I still had problems convincing others not to use the stuff as a lubricant. Even management believed it was "good oil". The inverse is just as true. For thirty years I used Mobil 1 (a synthetic lubricant) whenever I could in an engine or gear box or transmission and as the machinery grew old they maintained their factory machined tolerances. Still today mechanics recommend users to drain their good synthetic oil from their vehicles simply because the owner's manual says "replace every 3K miles". Use a quality synthetic oil and you'll grow tired of the car before you wear it out. Automotive filters are way behind times. Most, even the brand names, are poor filters. So bad, in fact none reveal their micron rating (the standard measure of a filters' ability to remove contaminants.) It's all about marketing. Most car owners would be well served to use a synthetic and change the filter twice for every synthetic oil change. You see, technically oil never wears out. It either gets contaminated or uses up its additives. Smart long haul drivers add back the additives and keep filtering the oil for hundreds of thousands of miles keeping costs down on operating their eighteen wheelers.
Larry Maloney
Spraying WD on greased bearings? NOT good. Basically, washing all the lube [grease] out. Wow! I have to say, I'm blown away by just how ill-informed people are... every day. Apathy... it's killing us. And you are 100% on target with the oil change issue. Cheers!
+Larry Maloney
didnt i just see him use cutting oil on the 1/4 pilot bit?
wonder why he switched
+joe rodriguez , he must listening to the big boys.
I build traction bars for 3 trucks using a Harbor Freight cheapo portable bandsaw with a metal blade in it. I learned the trick from reading Pirate 4x4's forum on how to notch tubing with a chop saw. IMHO it's faster and easier than this vid, but yours works just fine too. Just throwing out another idea for folks to tuck into their bag of tricks :) Good video!
Cutting oil will make the hole saw last longer, wd40 isnt the greatest for this job
And you stink less from not having the wd flinging off onto you all day
A simple tip I got from an old friend when drilling or boarding stainless use use turps or white spirit as a coolant
Keep up the good work
kind regards Sean from the Burren west of Ireland
awesome...dam! I am going to try this on my bike frame project!
That is awesome!
I've always used a cut off wheel and dremel to make notches. I'm going to have to try this on my bumper stinger.
Holly shit that was funny! "I'm going to teach you how to notch tubing effectively and ALMOST efficiently" I'm still laughing my ass off. Great video tho!
+Alan Lawyer They're honest. I'll say that for them.
At least he never used the v word........😳
Virtually
the best method I have ever seen
That ain't an inch and a quarter.
That's what she said
dude. you. are. a. genius. much love. great vid.