I've been a Professional Restoration, Finishing & Painting Contractor since 1980, the Summer I Graduated High School. I used to help my Dad & Grandad from 12 years old onwards and I've used just about every kind of Coating there is. I'd like to make a few suggestions to help you. First use VM&P Napthia (Varnish Makers & Painters) instead of Mineral Spirits. (Paint Thinner) Napthia is also known as Lighter Fluid such as Ronsonol or Zippo, Coleman Camping Fuel or White Gas (not Gasoline) but VM&P is the best because it's a little cleaner/higher grade. VM&P Napthia will mix in better, your Tru-Oil will set (tack) up quicker, dry faster and cure out a little harder plus being a much higher grade Solvent than Mineral Spirits it will increase the shine. Always measure and stir it in (don't whip, it'll add air bubbles) whatever Solvent you use to thin the Finish you're using. This way you can easily replicate it and you'll have consistently from batch to batch. Try 3 Tablespoons of Tru-Oil & 1/2 Tablespoon of VM&P. If that's too thick add another 1/2 Tablespoon of VM&P. Keep adding VM&P 1/2 at the time until you've got the desired viscosity. Once you've got your ratios down you can replicate the excact same formula over and and your finish will be perfect and consistent. You can make larger batches by using a Shot Glass in the same ratio. If You have a some Baby Food Jars with a good Rubber Seal in their lids. You can mix up a jar full at the time if you have 2-3 Guitars to finish. Even if you don't mix a jar full you can keep your leftovers in a Baby Food Jar. Also it's really best to use your thinned Tru-Oil for your First Coat because it will Soak in and Penetrate Deeper. This will Bond & Seal your Wood better. It won't hurt to use your thinned Tru-Oil for all your Coats, you may find you like this better. The Best Sealer is Zinsser Seal-Coat. It's a 100% wax free Shellac compable under all Clear Finishes, even Hot Solvent Finishes like Lacquer and 2 part Epoxies and Alphatic Urethane. If you Seal your Wood with Zinsser Seal-Coat Your Tru-Oil, Polyurethane, Lacquer, etc. will have greater "Enamel Holdout" (higher gloss/sheen) plus all your Top Coats lay down and smooth out better. Lastly put a little Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue on the little Cardboard/Paper Seal that comes in your Tru-Oil's Top to keep it in place and store it upside down. This will keep it Fresh longer and if it Skins or Scabs over this Will be on the bottom when you turn it right side up. Hope this Helps you. look for Jimmy Reaves (no picture) on Facebook. I'll send you my email and help you all I can. God Bless You & Your Family. Jimmy in NC....
+James Reaves Thank for the tips. A lot of great suggestions. I’m aware of most of this stuff. I was just making quick video on my Trick. I do measure it out when doing a full guitar. This video was just intended as a basic version for those who are just getting started.
James Reaves how many coats of tru-oil would you recommend on anything? I do alot of hand plane handles i like the feel of tru-oil better than laquer just never know when enough is enough lol id appreciate any recommendations. Thanks ! Bill W. Upstate NY
I tried this on my final coats on my maple lap steel, and WOW! Amazing! After sanding the previous tru oil coats with 3000 grit, I tried your method and it's absolutely like glass! THANK YOU PAL!
Wow! This is a game changer. I followed your directions, even including using a blue shop towel, and my results have been fantastik!! I was planning on buffing this out but I honestly don’t think it needs it. Thanks so much for teaching this to me!
I have never used Tru-Oil ? I like Danish Oil. You and I have one thing in common that is how we apply our finish! I don't use shop towels . I use napkins and like you get an excellent finish after mutiple coats! I am to old to change my ways but I can tell you have a good method!
Dude. I'm doing a muzzleloader stock with my son and this cutting trick saved me. I let the first coat dry for 2 days and it was still wet. 95 degrees outside and no humidity. I wiped all that off with mineral spirits and started cutting it with MS like you're doing. It started drying in a couple hours and even 30 minutes sometimes. I'm on about 15 coats right now and it's looking killer man! Thank you.
Excellent Video, thank you and you to your Viewers comments, The Guitar Community is the Best, people helping others with advice 👍 Melbourne, Australia.
Thank you for the kind words. I truly appreciate it. I wholeheartedly agree about the guitar community. I’m just trying to keep the sharing going like all those who have taught and continue to teach me. So awesome that my little video has reached Australia.
I tried this thinning trick with tru oil today on the maple top of my BYO LP kit and a couple hours later the amount of gloss I'm getting is really incredible!!
@@Nugmania1 it differs depending on the guitar but usually at least 4 or 5. Sometimes more but usually that’s my minimum. A lot of people use up to 10-15 coats but I personally have found that unnecessary.
Quick question on the tru oil beings its oil based once you get the underlying finish level you dont have to sand or scuff between coats for adhesion? Great vids and beautiful guitars btw!
Thanks for the tip! I just recently got in to turning wood pens and I've been using Tru Oil on them, appropriate since most of them have been bolt-action pens. It is a bit tricky with self-leveling since they're round, so I have to keep them on a slow motor to keep turning. I know this video's a couple of years old now, but I had a few questions regarding your technique: 1. How many heavy/thin coats did you put on before the thinned out finishing layers? 2. Did you prep the coating before the thinned Tru Oil layers with anything (steel wool, etc) 3. Before the mineral spirit top coat, how long did you leave it to cure and how many mineral spirit coats did you put? I'm definitely going to test this process out now, being I coincidentally have mineral spirits myself. Thanks for the tip!
Tru-oil is nothing more then Stand oil with Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits). What's Stand oil? Stand oil is linseed oil placed in a vacuum and heated to approximately 500°+ for an extended period of time. It's thick, more clear and dries unlike any other linseed product - it doesn't yellow with age. It’s not to be confused with any other linseed products like raw or boiled linseed oil. It's been used by artists for years and is available online or at good art supply stores, I’m an art conservator and have been using it for years - it's less expensive then Tru-oil. Unfortunately, so many people have been snowed by big companies and their "proprietary formulas."
Alexander Graham you make bagpipes? That’s cool. I never thought about someone making bagpipes but I guess someone would have to, I mean there not going to build them selfs. Thanks now there is one more DIY video I have to look us and check out. Lol
Yeah, ruffly 50/50. You can buff and polish or leave it as is. I usually polish but be extra careful not to be too aggressive on the finish as it’s super thin and it’s easy to burn through.
I really like it; that looks so nice. I'd like to be able to mix my own tru-oil with stuff from the hardware store instead of having to buy tru-oil online and then still need the mineral spirits, since MS is one of the key ingredients in the first place. So please tell me; have you came up with a recipe to make our own tru-oil? I want to finish a neck, I am also concerned about poly effect on the tone.
Eddy2097 the trick is the first few coats are full strength Tru Oil sanding every other coat. I typically do a first very heavy coat keeping in wet and applying for about 10 minutes. Then wipe of the excess and allow to dry 24 hrs. Then I use 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper to level that out & do another few full coats getting lighter each coat. After about 6 or 7 coats you shouldn't have to sand anymore. Once you're seeing/feeling a nice smooth finish you can do the thinned out high gloss trick. I rarely do more than 2 or 3 gloss coats & if I need to sand between coats I'll use 3000 grit wet/dry with mineral spirits instead of water. I don't like steel wool as it has no leveling properties. It's not necessary if you're already feeling a smooth finish and no high spots though. Ever project is different depending on how the wood is taking the finish. Just make sure you use a tack cloth & mineral spirits between coats to really remove any sanding residue
lesterclaypool1 be careful if you use steel wool- if the tru oil hasn’t cured fully and it’s still kinda soft you’ll get steel particles embedded in the finish
I've thinned out oil based polyurethane when I used to do wood working to give a really nice smooth coat. I wonder why no one uses lacquer or even shellac for guitars. Maybe those two just don't hold up well.....especially lacquer when sweat and stuff lands on the guitar during a gig or something.
Hey mate, just researching how to use tru oil on a guitar I'm starting. Can I please check I've got this method right? So add straight tru oil and then last couple of coats you're thinning it down? Are you buffing before adding these last coats? Or not needed with this trick? Sorry for the silly question, just don't want to stuff it up! Cheers from Australia
Yeah, pretty much the process. I typically go anywhere from 6 to 10 full strength coats before starting the thinning process. I don’t buff or polish until the end. I also don’t use steel wool between coats on the full strength because steel wool has zero leveling properties. Instead I use 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper with mineral spirits between every other coat to start until I get about 6 coats. Once I get to the thinned out process the top is pretty smooth and usually only requires some 3000 grit between every other coat and not on the final coat. Once you like your level of shine you can stop. I then let it fully cure(dry) for a good 2 weeks before final buffing/polishing & final assembly.
@@VenancioPortalatin Just about to tru-oil my DIY Tele kit. Already stained it and just prepping it for Tru-Oil. The neck is almost done. Put 3 coats on the neck and lightly sanded down. Then I put a coat on using just my fingers and let it dry......nice shine...more of a satin finish. I prefer my necks that way without a nitro on it. I copied your response above to a Word document and a comment above along with the link to the video. Going to use it when I am ready
So after the proper build and it’s all level, and you apply a couple of thinned out coats is it necessary to buff it? If so are you just sanding it with some 3,000 grit and then a compound?
I don’t always sand but it just depends on the project and amount of coats. Its very easy to sand through the finish as its pretty thin. The only time i sand is if i’m seeing some orange peal texture and when i do i typically start with 1200 or 1500 and then to 2000 then 3000. Put your wet/dry sandpaper in a container with water and a pump of soap and leave it there overnight before using. Its an old auto body trick. When sanding put very little pressure and just let the paper do its job but keep it moving and don’t stay in one spot too long. You’ll notice it get foggy looking at first bur don’t panic because as you move up in grits that will start to go away. Then yes, you can buff & polish. Use a fine cut to get out any of the last fine scratches then a polishing compound. The buffing and polishing isn’t always necessary but if you’re going for a mirror shine its the best way to get it.
I'm about 15-20 coats into a pine combo cab and it's looking pretty glossy now. I think I'll try this trick for the final few coats. I live in AZ, so very low humidity and I put on two coats a day. Can I use a spray on shellac when it's all done? I'd like to protect the finish, as this cab will get hauled around to practice and gigs.
As far as I know its fine to put Shellac over tru oil. As you have 20 coats of oil already you’ve built a nice layer of protection so if you’re gonna so shellac don’t do too many coats
you can buff & polish the tru oil then after shellac do it again. I would caution against any polishing until after a good 3-4 weeks after the final coat of oil. Even dry to the touch it still needs to fully cure to give you the best finsh/protection.
Usually a day or two. After I finish all my coats including the mineral spirit mix I usually wait at least 2 weeks before buffing and polishing and finial assembly
This is an awesome video! I'm trying to finish my guitar with a nice new veneer top with tru-oil and have the rest of the body painted black. Which black paint did you use on the body? I want the top to have a natural tru-oil finish but don't want to see the grain and other imperfections on the back and sides of the guitar. I'm trying to find out which paint is compatible with tru-oil and that is also not too hard to apply in winter. I'm currently experimenting with India ink.
This guitar was already painted black when I got it. I just removed the finish on the top to reveal the grain. The ink isn’t going to cover the wood enough to get a solid color. If the wood is mahogany there’s a few steps you need to take in order to get a solid color that doesn’t reveal any wood grain. First you must grain fill(tons of videos on it). Then you’ll need a primer coat before paint. Any automotive grade primer and paint will do. As for the Tru Oil over the paint it will work over regular paint. However, it’s not usually recommend but can be done. I was just using this body as a test body to show the process of getting a gloss finish with the oil. You can finish in cold weather as well as long as it’s not freezing cold in a shop. I prefer cool dry environments for oil finishing as too warm makes drying time longer.
Thanks for the tips. I'm painting over basswood and I don't have a workshop. I have been trying to find paint etc that I can use indoors and not make my house too toxic this winter.
You can buff & polish just like any finish. I usually wait a good week or two after my final coat though to be sure the finish has fully cured before any buffing.
I mean it's not as good as a poly finish but it does offer some protection. That being said no oil finish is really as durable as a good spray on finish.
Andreas Fischer nope, it’s not sticky at all. After a good month of curing it’s a solid finish. Like I said I normally wouldn’t do it over lacquer but did in this case to show the process.
Probably not much. Tru oil is a pretty thin finish so you should be good as long as you don't go crazy with a ton of coats. I'd say no more than 8 to 10 thin coat would be great.
dear Venancio, thanks for your video i'm from Spain and we not have this product that you mention, it's possible to use Isopropanol? and if it's not can you says the chemical name to find in Spain? many thanks for your help. kind regards.
Yes you can use denatured alcohol. Its not the same as mineral spirit though. I will typically dry faster with the alcohol so you do have to work a little faster.
Thank you for the video but that's laying flat what about like on a gun stock you can't lay it flat because it's not flat it's round and you sent it out that much will it drip
Actually it still applies. You just do even thinner coats and don’t let it be as heavy. You just do more thin thin coats on the gun stock and it should still come out shiny.
@@VenancioPortalatin awesome! I make tobacco pipes and would need it to be basically perfect for the finish. Any lumps or bumps would be quite noticeable unfortunately. Thank you for the reply!
Venancio Portalatin there will be no bubbles on its paint? Because my guitar has an dent on its clear coat so my plan is to remove the clearcoat and put some tru oil it is okay? Thank you bro
Typically I sand to at least 400. Also if you're gonna do it on Mahogany or any open grain wood be sure to grain fill so you can get a really smooth finish.
I was using that body as an example of how to get a gloss finish with tru oil. It can go over paint if thats the only medium you know how to use. I normally wouldn't put it on paint but this video just proves it can be done.
I've been a Professional Restoration, Finishing & Painting Contractor since 1980, the Summer I Graduated High School. I used to help my Dad & Grandad from 12 years old onwards and I've used just about every kind of Coating there is. I'd like to make a few suggestions to help you. First use VM&P Napthia (Varnish Makers & Painters) instead of Mineral Spirits. (Paint Thinner) Napthia is also known as Lighter Fluid such as Ronsonol or Zippo, Coleman Camping Fuel or White Gas (not Gasoline) but VM&P is the best because it's a little cleaner/higher grade. VM&P Napthia will mix in better, your Tru-Oil will set (tack) up quicker, dry faster and cure out a little harder plus being a much higher grade Solvent than Mineral Spirits it will increase the shine. Always measure and stir it in (don't whip, it'll add air bubbles) whatever Solvent you use to thin the Finish you're using. This way you can easily replicate it and you'll have consistently from batch to batch. Try 3 Tablespoons of Tru-Oil & 1/2 Tablespoon of VM&P. If that's too thick add another 1/2 Tablespoon of VM&P. Keep adding VM&P 1/2 at the time until you've got the desired viscosity. Once you've got your ratios down you can replicate the excact same formula over and and your finish will be perfect and consistent. You can make larger batches by using a Shot Glass in the same ratio. If You have a some Baby Food Jars with a good Rubber Seal in their lids. You can mix up a jar full at the time if you have 2-3 Guitars to finish. Even if you don't mix a jar full you can keep your leftovers in a Baby Food Jar. Also it's really best to use your thinned Tru-Oil for your First Coat because it will Soak in and Penetrate Deeper. This will Bond & Seal your Wood better. It won't hurt to use your thinned Tru-Oil for all your Coats, you may find you like this better. The Best Sealer is Zinsser Seal-Coat. It's a 100% wax free Shellac compable under all Clear Finishes, even Hot Solvent Finishes like Lacquer and 2 part Epoxies and Alphatic Urethane. If you Seal your Wood with Zinsser Seal-Coat Your Tru-Oil, Polyurethane, Lacquer, etc. will have greater "Enamel Holdout" (higher gloss/sheen) plus all your Top Coats lay down and smooth out better. Lastly put a little Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue on the little Cardboard/Paper Seal that comes in your Tru-Oil's Top to keep it in place and store it upside down. This will keep it Fresh longer and if it Skins or Scabs over this Will be on the bottom when you turn it right side up. Hope this Helps you. look for Jimmy Reaves (no picture) on Facebook. I'll send you my email and help you all I can.
God Bless You &
Your Family.
Jimmy in NC....
+James Reaves Thank for the tips. A lot of great suggestions. I’m aware of most of this stuff. I was just making quick video on my Trick. I do measure it out when doing a full guitar. This video was just intended as a basic version for those who are just getting started.
James Reaves Really great advice James. I’m doing my 3rd tru-oil guitar and this vid is great. Never thought of thinning it. Thx fellas.
Thank you James! :)
James Reaves so I can use “white gas” as a solvent? I was wondering because I think I may have some of that already.
James Reaves how many coats of tru-oil would you recommend on anything? I do alot of hand plane handles i like the feel of tru-oil better than laquer just never know when enough is enough lol id appreciate any recommendations. Thanks ! Bill W. Upstate NY
I tried this on my final coats on my maple lap steel, and WOW! Amazing! After sanding the previous tru oil coats with 3000 grit, I tried your method and it's absolutely like glass! THANK YOU PAL!
Wow! This is a game changer. I followed your directions, even including using a blue shop towel, and my results have been fantastik!! I was planning on buffing this out but I honestly don’t think it needs it. Thanks so much for teaching this to me!
I have never used Tru-Oil ? I like Danish Oil. You and I have one thing in common that is how we apply our finish! I don't use shop towels . I use napkins and like you get an excellent finish after mutiple coats! I am to old to change my ways but I can tell you have a good method!
I am new to Tru oil and look forward to trying your technique ... thank you for taking the trouble to pass on your wisdom! :)
Jump from 2:51 to 4:18 and see the difference, nice job
.True Oil is great, good trick with mineral spirits, nice gloss
Dude. I'm doing a muzzleloader stock with my son and this cutting trick saved me. I let the first coat dry for 2 days and it was still wet. 95 degrees outside and no humidity. I wiped all that off with mineral spirits and started cutting it with MS like you're doing. It started drying in a couple hours and even 30 minutes sometimes. I'm on about 15 coats right now and it's looking killer man! Thank you.
Great advice. I'll try this for finishing my next guitar build.
Your video & comments below were very very helpfull!
Excellent Video, thank you and you to your Viewers comments, The Guitar Community is the Best, people helping others with advice 👍
Melbourne, Australia.
Thank you for the kind words. I truly appreciate it. I wholeheartedly agree about the guitar community. I’m just trying to keep the sharing going like all those who have taught and continue to teach me. So awesome that my little video has reached Australia.
Venancio Portalatin, Hi, I do apologise, I meant to say how Awesome the Body looked when finished.👍👍👍.
Take care Brother.
Good video. I'll give it a try. I never thought of using blue shop towels. Thanks for your knowledge.
Blue shop towels is all I use for Tru oil or any hand applied finish. They’re the best.
Good, wish I’d known about this much sooner. Just put a couple coats on a gunstock , it works great!!
I tried this thinning trick with tru oil today on the maple top of my BYO LP kit and a couple hours later the amount of gloss I'm getting is really incredible!!
Awesome, yeah it’s a great trick. Glad it’s working for you.
Totally looks killer! Thanks for sharing!
I didn't believe this would work, but it did, holy sh#t it worked thanks for this trick man and all the best to you .
mark dangerfield awesome! Glad I could help
Awesome! Thanks!
Cool trick, thanks for posting. Love to see the poly trick too.
I used your "trick" and my rifle stock is smooth as a baby's butt and a mirror finish, an exhibition grade claro walnut
I heard coffee filters work for applying the Tru Oil to reduce any extra lint & such from coming off.
I have heard that as well. Never tried it though as I stick with my blue shop towels.
Great tip! I'm just about ready to start using some Tru Oil and this will help!👍😎🎸🎶
Thanks for posting. I'm going to try this trick my Cigar Box Guitar necks I build.
Good tip, how many coats did you do before you applied the tru oil with the mineral spirits? Thanks
@@Nugmania1 it differs depending on the guitar but usually at least 4 or 5. Sometimes more but usually that’s my minimum. A lot of people use up to 10-15 coats but I personally have found that unnecessary.
Quick question on the tru oil beings its oil based once you get the underlying finish level you dont have to sand or scuff between coats for adhesion? Great vids and beautiful guitars btw!
Thanks for the tip! I just recently got in to turning wood pens and I've been using Tru Oil on them, appropriate since most of them have been bolt-action pens. It is a bit tricky with self-leveling since they're round, so I have to keep them on a slow motor to keep turning. I know this video's a couple of years old now, but I had a few questions regarding your technique:
1. How many heavy/thin coats did you put on before the thinned out finishing layers?
2. Did you prep the coating before the thinned Tru Oil layers with anything (steel wool, etc)
3. Before the mineral spirit top coat, how long did you leave it to cure and how many mineral spirit coats did you put?
I'm definitely going to test this process out now, being I coincidentally have mineral spirits myself. Thanks for the tip!
Tru-oil is nothing more then Stand oil with Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits).
What's Stand oil?
Stand oil is linseed oil placed in a vacuum and heated to approximately 500°+ for an extended period of time. It's thick, more clear and dries unlike any other linseed product - it doesn't yellow with age. It’s not to be confused with any other linseed products like raw or boiled linseed oil. It's been used by artists for years and is available online or at good art supply stores, I’m an art conservator and have been using it for years - it's less expensive then Tru-oil. Unfortunately, so many people have been snowed by big companies and their "proprietary formulas."
DANG!!! That worked GREAT! a little long on the dry time but well worth it!
Thanks for sharing!
Huffing it... explains a lot
Wow looking foreword to trying this on the bagpipes I make . Sure looks a good finish.
Alexander Graham you make bagpipes? That’s cool. I never thought about someone making bagpipes but I guess someone would have to, I mean there not going to build them selfs. Thanks now there is one more DIY video I have to look us and check out. Lol
Thanks for the tips. Would you say it’s about 50/50 thinned? Also, do you buff out the finish or this is the final layer? Thanks
Yeah, ruffly 50/50. You can buff and polish or leave it as is. I usually polish but be extra careful not to be too aggressive on the finish as it’s super thin and it’s easy to burn through.
Wow that was great. I m going to try this...thanks
Great tip! Will definitely use it for my next guitar build
I really like it; that looks so nice. I'd like to be able to mix my own tru-oil with stuff from the hardware store instead of having to buy tru-oil online and then still need the mineral spirits, since MS is one of the key ingredients in the first place. So please tell me; have you came up with a recipe to make our own tru-oil? I want to finish a neck, I am also concerned about poly effect on the tone.
Looks awesome! I'm gonna try this out man, just a question: did you had any sanding between coats or?
Cheers and thanks.
Eddy2097 the trick is the first few coats are full strength Tru Oil sanding every other coat. I typically do a first very heavy coat keeping in wet and applying for about 10 minutes. Then wipe of the excess and allow to dry 24 hrs. Then I use 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper to level that out & do another few full coats getting lighter each coat. After about 6 or 7 coats you shouldn't have to sand anymore. Once you're seeing/feeling a nice smooth finish you can do the thinned out high gloss trick. I rarely do more than 2 or 3 gloss coats & if I need to sand between coats I'll use 3000 grit wet/dry with mineral spirits instead of water. I don't like steel wool as it has no leveling properties. It's not necessary if you're already feeling a smooth finish and no high spots though. Ever project is different depending on how the wood is taking the finish. Just make sure you use a tack cloth & mineral spirits between coats to really remove any sanding residue
The sanding helps fill in the pores with saw dust, this helps make it more glossy. The mineral spirits help with penetration.
use very very light steel wood it works well
lesterclaypool1 be careful if you use steel wool- if the tru oil hasn’t cured fully and it’s still kinda soft you’ll get steel particles embedded in the finish
Wrap your wool around a strong magnet.
Thank you Ven.
Till you can’t smell the spirits. So results vary depending on whether or not you have a cold? ;-)
Yeah, that’s the trick!
Or odorless mineral spirits! Doh.
I've thinned out oil based polyurethane when I used to do wood working to give a really nice smooth coat. I wonder why no one uses lacquer or even shellac for guitars. Maybe those two just don't hold up well.....especially lacquer when sweat and stuff lands on the guitar during a gig or something.
I am new to rub finishes. Can you use them on paint or only on stains? Nice video
Yes you can use them on stains and paints. Thanks for the kind words.
Odorless or regular mineral spirits?
Either will work but i use oderless.
Hey mate, just researching how to use tru oil on a guitar I'm starting. Can I please check I've got this method right? So add straight tru oil and then last couple of coats you're thinning it down? Are you buffing before adding these last coats? Or not needed with this trick? Sorry for the silly question, just don't want to stuff it up! Cheers from Australia
Yeah, pretty much the process. I typically go anywhere from 6 to 10 full strength coats before starting the thinning process. I don’t buff or polish until the end. I also don’t use steel wool between coats on the full strength because steel wool has zero leveling properties. Instead I use 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper with mineral spirits between every other coat to start until I get about 6 coats. Once I get to the thinned out process the top is pretty smooth and usually only requires some 3000 grit between every other coat and not on the final coat. Once you like your level of shine you can stop. I then let it fully cure(dry) for a good 2 weeks before final buffing/polishing & final assembly.
Thanks... great explanation. I'll follow this exactly! Cheers
@@VenancioPortalatin Just about to tru-oil my DIY Tele kit. Already stained it and just prepping it for Tru-Oil. The neck is almost done. Put 3 coats on the neck and lightly sanded down. Then I put a coat on using just my fingers and let it dry......nice shine...more of a satin finish. I prefer my necks that way without a nitro on it. I copied your response above to a Word document and a comment above along with the link to the video. Going to use it when I am ready
@@VenancioPortalatin what do you buff with? What compound?
Any auto car polish will do
This is a great video. I might have to give this a try on my build.
Would this same process work on metal aluminum to enhance the dull black coating to prevent from having to repaint?
I don't think Tru oil works on metal. You probably want to go with a polyurethane finish
So after the proper build and it’s all level, and you apply a couple of thinned out coats is it necessary to buff it? If so are you just sanding it with some 3,000 grit and then a compound?
I don’t always sand but it just depends on the project and amount of coats. Its very easy to sand through the finish as its pretty thin. The only time i sand is if i’m seeing some orange peal texture and when i do i typically start with 1200 or 1500 and then to 2000 then 3000. Put your wet/dry sandpaper in a container with water and a pump of soap and leave it there overnight before using. Its an old auto body trick. When sanding put very little pressure and just let the paper do its job but keep it moving and don’t stay in one spot too long. You’ll notice it get foggy looking at first bur don’t panic because as you move up in grits that will start to go away. Then yes, you can buff & polish. Use a fine cut to get out any of the last fine scratches then a polishing compound. The buffing and polishing isn’t always necessary but if you’re going for a mirror shine its the best way to get it.
I'm about 15-20 coats into a pine combo cab and it's looking pretty glossy now. I think I'll try this trick for the final few coats. I live in AZ, so very low humidity and I put on two coats a day. Can I use a spray on shellac when it's all done? I'd like to protect the finish, as this cab will get hauled around to practice and gigs.
As far as I know its fine to put Shellac over tru oil. As you have 20 coats of oil already you’ve built a nice layer of protection so if you’re gonna so shellac don’t do too many coats
@@VenancioPortalatin Thanks. Should I buff/polish before or after applying the shallac or both?
you can buff & polish the tru oil then after shellac do it again. I would caution against any polishing until after a good 3-4 weeks after the final coat of oil. Even dry to the touch it still needs to fully cure to give you the best finsh/protection.
@@VenancioPortalatin Damn. Patience is not my forte. But then AZ is pretty dry, so it shouldn't take that long. It's sunny all day, every day here.
Great tip, how long do you wait between the last coat of pure tru oil before applying the mix of mineral spirits and tru oil? Thanks!
Usually a day or two. After I finish all my coats including the mineral spirit mix I usually wait at least 2 weeks before buffing and polishing and finial assembly
Like your tip have seen it done with spirts b4 but in different way your way seems faster how many full coats b4 the mix and how long in between
Every project is different but i usually do a good 5 or 6 coats before i start thinning it. I might do a video sometime showing my entire process.
This is an awesome video! I'm trying to finish my guitar with a nice new veneer top with tru-oil and have the rest of the body painted black. Which black paint did you use on the body? I want the top to have a natural tru-oil finish but don't want to see the grain and other imperfections on the back and sides of the guitar. I'm trying to find out which paint is compatible with tru-oil and that is also not too hard to apply in winter. I'm currently experimenting with India ink.
This guitar was already painted black when I got it. I just removed the finish on the top to reveal the grain. The ink isn’t going to cover the wood enough to get a solid color. If the wood is mahogany there’s a few steps you need to take in order to get a solid color that doesn’t reveal any wood grain. First you must grain fill(tons of videos on it). Then you’ll need a primer coat before paint. Any automotive grade primer and paint will do. As for the Tru Oil over the paint it will work over regular paint. However, it’s not usually recommend but can be done. I was just using this body as a test body to show the process of getting a gloss finish with the oil. You can finish in cold weather as well as long as it’s not freezing cold in a shop. I prefer cool dry environments for oil finishing as too warm makes drying time longer.
Thanks for the tips. I'm painting over basswood and I don't have a workshop. I have been trying to find paint etc that I can use indoors and not make my house too toxic this winter.
Thanks! 😎
nice, what about buffing after? any required?
You can buff & polish just like any finish. I usually wait a good week or two after my final coat though to be sure the finish has fully cured before any buffing.
I don't use tru oil any more i use a formula of 1/3 Naptha 1/3 polyurethane 1/3 lindseed oil dries fast gets hard
cool, i’ll have to try that sometime
Does this hold up good from scratches or accidental scrapes?
I mean it's not as good as a poly finish but it does offer some protection. That being said no oil finish is really as durable as a good spray on finish.
Looks like the guitar has got a black lacquer finish and you add true oil on top? Does that work? I thought you can use it on pure wood only
Normally you should just do it on unfinished wood but it does work on top of lacquer
@@VenancioPortalatinThats cool! And it wont be sticky or something like that at the end? Does it get hard? Or does it come off with the time again?
Andreas Fischer nope, it’s not sticky at all. After a good month of curing it’s a solid finish. Like I said I normally wouldn’t do it over lacquer but did in this case to show the process.
@@VenancioPortalatin Thats cool, thank you for the information - i think i will give it a try, too.
Thanks valencio 👍🏻
I do this for wipe on polyurethane.
If you put Tru oil on a acoustic guitar will it effect the sound
Probably not much. Tru oil is a pretty thin finish so you should be good as long as you don't go crazy with a ton of coats. I'd say no more than 8 to 10 thin coat would be great.
dear Venancio, thanks for your video i'm from Spain and we not have this product that you mention, it's possible to use Isopropanol? and if it's not can you says the chemical name to find in Spain?
many thanks for your help.
kind regards.
sbdtoni use white spirits. check my recipe for making your own good true oil above
Hello! How this tru oil compares to tung oil. I am really after satin finish.. Rather than shinny. Thanks!
and1424 tung oil is thinner and offers less overall protection but still a good finish.
Can you use denatured alcohol or is that the same thing as mineral spirits?
Yes you can use denatured alcohol. Its not the same as mineral spirit though. I will typically dry faster with the alcohol so you do have to work a little faster.
After all the applications do you do a buff out?
Patrick Kem yeah, you can buff and polish like normal.
Thank you for the video but that's laying flat what about like on a gun stock you can't lay it flat because it's not flat it's round and you sent it out that much will it drip
Actually it still applies. You just do even thinner coats and don’t let it be as heavy. You just do more thin thin coats on the gun stock and it should still come out shiny.
Can you put wipe on poly over a TRU-OIL finish?
yes
Is that a Painted or Stained Surface?
This was a painted body. The technique works on both.
Couldn't c anything in the dark .
Does this not leave any streaks or build up?
When you thin it down it self levels pretty nicely.
@@VenancioPortalatin awesome! I make tobacco pipes and would need it to be basically perfect for the finish. Any lumps or bumps would be quite noticeable unfortunately.
Thank you for the reply!
Can be used this one over the paint no problem?
yes, as long as the paint is dry
Venancio Portalatin there will be no bubbles on its paint? Because my guitar has an dent on its clear coat so my plan is to remove the clearcoat and put some tru oil it is okay? Thank you bro
All that's happening is the mineral spirits is activating the current paint job. Tru oil is meant to soak into wood, not be painted over, paint.
paint the walls instead
Do they make colors or just clear
Just clear but you can mix in dyes to tint it. However, I find doing your color first and then using this as your clear coat gives the best results.
What did you sand it to?
Typically I sand to at least 400. Also if you're gonna do it on Mahogany or any open grain wood be sure to grain fill so you can get a really smooth finish.
is this good for neck or fret board?
P1NGÜ yep, it will work with a neck.
That is called glazing.
Will 70% isopropanol work?
I don’t usually measure. Just do it my feel but yeah that sounds about right.
You have commented this on tons of videos. DUDE QUIT TRYING TO SHORTCUT or you're gonna fuck it up. Just get the stuff you need
You should measure it because "by eye" doesn't help anyone..
The real trick is actually finding it for sale anywhere
Yeah, depends on where you live because some states have a ban on it. I live in Texas and there’s no ban on Tru Oil. I buy mine on Amazon.
That mixing method is shocking. "Not very scientific" is a gross understatement. Please take a measurement. Even if just a rough one.
lol…Never said it was perfect. If i was gonna measure its about 2 parts mineral spirits and 1 part tru oil in that tiny cup filled about halfway.
You're putting oil over paint?
This is utterly pointless.
I was using that body as an example of how to get a gloss finish with tru oil. It can go over paint if thats the only medium you know how to use. I normally wouldn't put it on paint but this video just proves it can be done.