Patreon: www.patreon.com/HomeDistiller Instagram: / youtube_homedistiller a quick video showing how i replace the bearing and mechanical seal on a spa/jacuzzi pump.
Thanks, your video helped me change just the ceramic seals on my seeping/dripping pump. Bearings were still good, but would be really helpful if you could identify the bearings size for others in the future? & for the question about unscrewing the impeller from the motor shaft, it's conventional RH thread. Had to brace a large screwdriver on the rear slot & use thick rubber gloves to get a good grip on my really tight impeller, but it let go after some effort. The embedded impeller nut is brass (self lubricating) going onto a steel shaft, so should release with medium force.
Hi ! can not unscrew the impeller as you have done on 2:46. Have used the screwdriver to hold the shaft and unscrewed counterclockwise impeller by hand only? Chinese pump DXD310
I have a Rimini spa bad or hotub , that is about 8 years old. I am in Sweden, We noticed a while ago that it did not seem to have full power, when pushed on full power, the flow was weak, everywhere. We also said to ourselves, that we think that we had 2 power settings, you pushed it in and got like 50% bubbles and then pushed it in again for full bubbles. But we only seemed to have one setting now full and off only. I know the pump is 2 speed, says on it. So I took the pump out and took it apart, noticed that the impellor was half missing, all broken, So I thought great was impellor, ordered a new impellor and seals, just the same, pushed the jet button on, which again only full mode, hardly any flow. could not believe that this was not the problem. And then after testing it for a good few times, the jet button refused to go on to full bubbles, I am thinking that this is some safety cut-off switch inbuilt. I thought for a while that possibly the pump smelled like it was burning just a little. I have taken out all the jets, emptied the water, blasted a hose through all of them, thinking that if 50% of the impellor is disintegrated, then bits must be stuck somewhere. Some small bits have come out. very small though. I am wondering if I need to buy a new pump, Just hope it's not the motherboard or control panel. Because the pump has not 2 speeds working, or something is definitely not right. What's your opinion. Is there something else I need to check? I am cracking up, not finding the problem, Could it be the capacitor? I am hoping a new pump will solve the issue. Appreciate your opinion thanks.
I'd test the cap for sure.. But if it's been like that for awhile then it may have damaged the windings, if your confident enough, open the motor and inspect the windings, if they have been hot then they will stink and have changed colour. If they are ok then the motor should still be fine, but I'd bet one of the caps is way out of spec..
@@HomeDistiller Thanks, the capacitor is sitting inside the black box with all the wiring. I can not find a capacitor like this one on youtube ,just has a black and blue wire coming from it. l have a multitmeter, but do not know what settings to test it. l could take the motor apart,it is out of the hotub anyway. Do you think the problem sounds like something to do with the motor still. It turns and like l explained replaced the impellor and seals. I can order a new motor quite a good price from amazon,but if it is not the motor, Be difficult to send it back to them. Freight is so expensive here in Sweden.
Hi, I’m replacing my DXD 8A pump. I noticed that the hole that I used to inject ozone is blocked . Should I drill it ? What about the air switch ? There was no special button in the previous one
Hi, can you remember what size the 4 motor bolt/threaded bar you used and bearing sizes ? Did you put a new seal kit in, would of liked to see that go in if you still have the video footage. Cheers.
theres always that possibility. thats why all spas, pools, hotubs etc have to have an RCD (safety switch) installed. but its the heating element that is the most likely to cause any issues with power getting into the water.. but all metal parts that are in contact with the water should be grounded
If the capacitor has pooed the bed then yes, they can overheat and blow the thermal fuse in the windings.. Some tests with a meter should tell you if the windings aren't open circuit.. And if I need to explain how to test that, you probably shouldn't be poking around in there.. There's deadly voltages involved
Hi. I have quite a similar pump, LX JA 35. I changed it already last year. Now it works for around 2 weeks and then I got the message LF. So obviously not enough water can come through to heat. When I turn it on and off, I see that it "tries" to start, but unfortunately it stops. What could it be? You think I need to screw off the whole pump like you did?? Unfortunaltey I do not have all the tools you are using. And the next technician is quite far away... Thanks!!
Was it noisy when it was running? Do you have a screwdriver? Or even something think you can poke in the back and see if you can turn the motor by hand? It should turn very easily, if you need much pressure to turn the fan in the back (don't break the fan! ) then the bearings are no good.. If it turns easily and it just sits and hums when you apply power, the capacitor needs replacing.. If your unsure what you are doing get the technician to look at it. There is deadly voltages inside!
Hi, I have a similar pump and motor but I'm having a slightly different issue. My motor keeps shorting out inside the motor for some reason and I can't find info online about how to solve it myself. Do you have any suggestions? Great video btw! Do you have
Are you sure that's corrosion?? Isn't it limescale?!?!? Uncontrolled limescale buildup is guaranteed to screw up your seals and your bearings, letting water leak to all parts of the pump and deposit yet more limescale. Those LX pumps should have lasted longer than that and should not have had any buildup like that. I know that because I have two myself and fill the tub with extremely hard English water
@davidgray3684 it's not lime scale as the water here is very soft, if there is any leak at all the bromine/ chlorine will corrode the motor housing very fast
Thanks for the usefull video. I wonder if a zinc anode somewhere might help the corrosion problems.
Thanks, your video helped me change just the ceramic seals on my seeping/dripping pump. Bearings were still good, but would be really helpful if you could identify the bearings size for others in the future?
& for the question about unscrewing the impeller from the motor shaft, it's conventional RH thread. Had to brace a large screwdriver on the rear slot & use thick rubber gloves to get a good grip on my really tight impeller, but it let go after some effort. The embedded impeller nut is brass (self lubricating) going onto a steel shaft, so should release with medium force.
The bearings will be different for other pumps, but the specs of the bearing is written on the sides of the bearings
Hi ! can not unscrew the impeller as you have done on 2:46. Have used the screwdriver to hold the shaft and unscrewed counterclockwise impeller by hand only? Chinese pump DXD310
I have a Rimini spa bad or hotub , that is about 8 years old. I am in Sweden, We noticed a while ago that it did not seem to have full power, when pushed on full power, the flow was weak, everywhere. We also said to ourselves, that we think that we had 2 power settings, you pushed it in and got like 50% bubbles and then pushed it in again for full bubbles. But we only seemed to have one setting now full and off only. I know the pump is 2 speed, says on it. So I took the pump out and took it apart, noticed that the impellor was half missing, all broken, So I thought great was impellor, ordered a new impellor and seals, just the same, pushed the jet button on, which again only full mode, hardly any flow. could not believe that this was not the problem.
And then after testing it for a good few times, the jet button refused to go on to full bubbles, I am thinking that this is some safety cut-off switch inbuilt. I thought for a while that possibly the pump smelled like it was burning just a little. I have taken out all the jets, emptied the water, blasted a hose through all of them, thinking that if 50% of the impellor is disintegrated, then bits must be stuck somewhere. Some small bits have come out. very small though. I am wondering if I need to buy a new pump, Just hope it's not the motherboard or control panel. Because the pump has not 2 speeds working, or something is definitely not right. What's your opinion. Is there something else I need to check? I am cracking up, not finding the problem, Could it be the capacitor? I am hoping a new pump will solve the issue. Appreciate your opinion thanks.
I'd test the cap for sure.. But if it's been like that for awhile then it may have damaged the windings, if your confident enough, open the motor and inspect the windings, if they have been hot then they will stink and have changed colour. If they are ok then the motor should still be fine, but I'd bet one of the caps is way out of spec..
@@HomeDistiller Thanks, the capacitor is sitting inside the black box with all the wiring. I can not find a capacitor like this one on youtube ,just has a black and blue wire coming from it. l have a multitmeter, but do not know what settings to test it. l could take the motor apart,it is out of the hotub anyway. Do you think the problem sounds like something to do with the motor still. It turns and like l explained replaced the impellor and seals. I can order a new motor quite a good price from amazon,but if it is not the motor, Be difficult to send it back to them. Freight is so expensive here in Sweden.
Is the impeller a right or left hand thread (Whirlpool DH1.0). Thanks
Great video, very informative.
Hi,
I’m replacing my DXD 8A pump. I noticed that the hole that I used to inject ozone is blocked . Should I drill it ? What about the air switch ? There was no special button in the previous one
Hi, can you remember what size the 4 motor bolt/threaded bar you used and bearing sizes ?
Did you put a new seal kit in, would of liked to see that go in if you still have the video footage.
Cheers.
Hi there I have a question is there a possibility that water could go to the engine? I'm always worried about that.
theres always that possibility. thats why all spas, pools, hotubs etc have to have an RCD (safety switch) installed. but its the heating element that is the most likely to cause any issues with power getting into the water.. but all metal parts that are in contact with the water should be grounded
So my Jacuzzi pump just turned off without warning. Zero symptoms leading up to it…is that how they usually go?
If the capacitor has pooed the bed then yes, they can overheat and blow the thermal fuse in the windings.. Some tests with a meter should tell you if the windings aren't open circuit.. And if I need to explain how to test that, you probably shouldn't be poking around in there.. There's deadly voltages involved
Hi. I have quite a similar pump, LX JA 35. I changed it already last year. Now it works for around 2 weeks and then I got the message LF. So obviously not enough water can come through to heat.
When I turn it on and off, I see that it "tries" to start, but unfortunately it stops. What could it be? You think I need to screw off the whole pump like you did?? Unfortunaltey I do not have all the tools you are using. And the next technician is quite far away...
Thanks!!
Was it noisy when it was running? Do you have a screwdriver? Or even something think you can poke in the back and see if you can turn the motor by hand? It should turn very easily, if you need much pressure to turn the fan in the back (don't break the fan! ) then the bearings are no good.. If it turns easily and it just sits and hums when you apply power, the capacitor needs replacing.. If your unsure what you are doing get the technician to look at it. There is deadly voltages inside!
Yes, the darn capacitor nearly always the problem. I like how he speeds up certain areas, nice.
Hi,
I have a similar pump and motor but I'm having a slightly different issue. My motor keeps shorting out inside the motor for some reason and I can't find info online about how to solve it myself.
Do you have any suggestions?
Great video btw!
Do you have
I'd say that's ether a cooked motor (unrepairable) or the capacitor is dead.
Are you sure that's corrosion?? Isn't it limescale?!?!? Uncontrolled limescale buildup is guaranteed to screw up your seals and your bearings, letting water leak to all parts of the pump and deposit yet more limescale. Those LX pumps should have lasted longer than that and should not have had any buildup like that. I know that because I have two myself and fill the tub with extremely hard English water
@davidgray3684 it's not lime scale as the water here is very soft, if there is any leak at all the bromine/ chlorine will corrode the motor housing very fast
Is that a Chinese pump?
Yeah. Whirlpool pump