Wow, not a few minutes in and I find: the problem. Just read and/or watched the blowout instruction from most of teh major Pressure Vacuum Backflow manufacturers and they tell you absolutely do NOT, connect the air compressor to either of the test ports and to do so to an added port AFTER the valve, with that meaning between the PVB anti-siphon valve and the Sprilnkler head, so as not to destroty the function of the PVB. Your PVB will bet tested by lots of communities on city water and it will fail because I got broken from following what is shown here. Sprinklers will work fine but it'll cost you $400 to over $600 to replace when it gets tested and fails. So, so many of these folks on TH-cam have helped with cars, and all kinds of stuff but so many also perpetuate the exact wrong way to do stuff. I'm not going by my thoughts on how to do it. I'm literally watching the Zurn 720A, WATTS 800M4F and Febco 765 vids, just before this one. Go to your manufacturer or that of a similar looking one if those arent' yours and watch what THEY say to do.
This was helpful, thank you!
How come the air is not escaping through the back flow valve? That is what happens in mine!
Mine too. At 2:15 after I open the vac breaker the PVB will keep generating loud noise and leaking air without popping up sprinkler head.
THis is what I did. I took the backflow valve cap off, got a plastic cap from ace and closed it for pressurization..@@zhenghan8428
Wow, not a few minutes in and I find: the problem. Just read and/or watched the blowout instruction from most of teh major Pressure Vacuum Backflow manufacturers and they tell you absolutely do NOT, connect the air compressor to either of the test ports and to do so to an added port AFTER the valve, with that meaning between the PVB anti-siphon valve and the Sprilnkler head, so as not to destroty the function of the PVB. Your PVB will bet tested by lots of communities on city water and it will fail because I got broken from following what is shown here. Sprinklers will work fine but it'll cost you $400 to over $600 to replace when it gets tested and fails. So, so many of these folks on TH-cam have helped with cars, and all kinds of stuff but so many also perpetuate the exact wrong way to do stuff. I'm not going by my thoughts on how to do it. I'm literally watching the Zurn 720A, WATTS 800M4F and Febco 765 vids, just before this one. Go to your manufacturer or that of a similar looking one if those arent' yours and watch what THEY say to do.