Thanks bro... I'm a new student to HVAC. and I'm struggling to understand the electrical component. Your explanation for this is so helpful .our tea her even shows us some of your videos as learning tools
thank you so much for the video sir, it's helped me so much! I just have one question though! I understand the theory of the relay and using continuity to test if the Normally Open or Normally Closed contacts are in their correct baseline state. What confuses me is, how do I test the relay while energized to see if the coil is working properly, therefore the contacts moving to the right places? Would that be checking for voltages? It's my understanding that I have to use Continuity while it's de-energized so I won't mess up my multi-meter. I hope you get a chance to read this :)
The coil and upper contacts are energized separately, so you can still use continuity with the main circuits disconnected. If everything is powered, yes you would check voltage at each point where it is expected.
Good question. Never measure resistance while circuit is energized because an ohm meter measures resistance by putting a small voltage across what your testing. If the circuit is energized then you need to test for voltage instead. If you're testing a switch, relay contacts, etc. and they are OPEN then you will basically be measuring the supply voltage. If you're testing a switch, relay contacts, etc. and they are CLOSED then you will be measuring no voltage. Basically, when the path is closed you lose your common/neutral reference hence the zero reading. In a sense, it's like trying to read the voltage across a DC battery by connecting both probes to the positive or negative (no potential difference means no voltage reading). Hopefully that answers your question 😊
Quick question if you don't mind. My heating/cooling system has that relay for the blower. Heat, everything works fine. When we turn the AC on, every now and then the unit turns on but the blower doesn't because the really slightly pops out. I'll push it back in and it will work for hours, then randomly the unit will go on, but the relay has slightly popped out again. Lost with what to do.
If this type of relay (R8222D 1014) is replacing one (R8222D 1006) that only has two contacts for the coil, can the extra set be removed? Or is it okay to just have them outside of the receptacle? Thanks!
I checked my Honeywell R8222B 1067 24V 50/60 Hz per your protocol: the points have an 11.5 Ohms reading and the relay is opened and when the circuit calls on it, it closes per my resistance readings. My points, where my 11.5 Ohms reading was shows zero voltage when the power is off and jumps to 28 volts when the power is on....which is good. My question to you is should the relay side, when the circuit closes also show the 28 volts? Currently, when I activate the relay the closed reading does not show any volts. Does this mean I need a new relay switch?
Only the coil will read 28 volts across once it is energized. As far as your N.O. or N.C. contacts, you will read 0 volts across the contacts if the contacts close meaning voltage is passing through and is good and you will read 28 volts or so across once the contacts open which is also good. This happens only when the coil is energized. Once enrgized, the NO contacts will close and the NC contacts will open. Watch the video a few times to get a better grasp. Hope this helps & thanks for watching!
@@JumpermanTech correct...my coil shows zero volts and once the furnace is activated the common/HUM wires to the Honeywell R8222B 1067 reads 28 volts across the coil; however, the output side, that leads to my humidifier & humidstat reads zero volts if opened or closed (on the N.O. or N.C).....I assume it is bad, yes?
Wouldn't 6 be normally open and not closed?
You will definitely run into those on a fan control center along with a Honeywell fan/limit controller on older furnaces 😊
Interesting subject and well explained. Great job JMT.
Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡
great video well explained and also shows all the steps to troubleshooting
Thank you! Glad you found this video helpful.
Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡
So useful and good way to reach the information to the people. Thanks.
Thanks bro... I'm a new student to HVAC. and I'm struggling to understand the electrical component. Your explanation for this is so helpful .our tea her even shows us some of your videos as learning tools
Thank you for the video I. Describing how the relay works. My question is what would go on the normally closed terminals?
Thank you, super informative, i appreciate it very much
Great video.
Well explained visual material.
Thank you for the videos.
you are doing a great job
You're very welcome & thank you! 🙏
Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡
Thank you sir for this wonderful video
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
thank you so much for the video sir, it's helped me so much! I just have one question though! I understand the theory of the relay and using continuity to test if the Normally Open or Normally Closed contacts are in their correct baseline state. What confuses me is, how do I test the relay while energized to see if the coil is working properly, therefore the contacts moving to the right places? Would that be checking for voltages? It's my understanding that I have to use Continuity while it's de-energized so I won't mess up my multi-meter. I hope you get a chance to read this :)
The coil and upper contacts are energized separately, so you can still use continuity with the main circuits disconnected. If everything is powered, yes you would check voltage at each point where it is expected.
Good question.
Never measure resistance while circuit is energized because an ohm meter measures resistance by putting a small voltage across what your testing.
If the circuit is energized then you need to test for voltage instead.
If you're testing a switch, relay contacts, etc. and they are OPEN then you will basically be measuring the supply voltage.
If you're testing a switch, relay contacts, etc. and they are CLOSED then you will be measuring no voltage. Basically, when the path is closed you lose your common/neutral reference hence the zero reading. In a sense, it's like trying to read the voltage across a DC battery by connecting both probes to the positive or negative (no potential difference means no voltage reading).
Hopefully that answers your question 😊
More good info ... Thx for posting ...
Amazing❤
Great vid brother- thanks
Exeptional tutorial ❤
Very good 👍
Great video thank you
Gas furnace and air conditioner are shared with one relay or different? My unit was installed in 1973 and still works .Thanks
Love your stuff
Quick question if you don't mind. My heating/cooling system has that relay for the blower. Heat, everything works fine. When we turn the AC on, every now and then the unit turns on but the blower doesn't because the really slightly pops out. I'll push it back in and it will work for hours, then randomly the unit will go on, but the relay has slightly popped out again. Lost with what to do.
Does amp matter on a relay?
If this type of relay (R8222D 1014) is replacing one (R8222D 1006) that only has two contacts for the coil, can the extra set be removed? Or is it okay to just have them outside of the receptacle? Thanks!
I believe this rellay to be the most common on planet earth 😂
I checked my Honeywell R8222B 1067 24V 50/60 Hz per your protocol: the points have an 11.5 Ohms reading and the relay is opened and when the circuit calls on it, it closes per my resistance readings. My points, where my 11.5 Ohms reading was shows zero voltage when the power is off and jumps to 28 volts when the power is on....which is good. My question to you is should the relay side, when the circuit closes also show the 28 volts? Currently, when I activate the relay the closed reading does not show any volts. Does this mean I need a new relay switch?
Only the coil will read 28 volts across once it is energized. As far as your N.O. or N.C. contacts, you will read 0 volts across the contacts if the contacts close meaning voltage is passing through and is good and you will read 28 volts or so across once the contacts open which is also good. This happens only when the coil is energized. Once enrgized, the NO contacts will close and the NC contacts will open. Watch the video a few times to get a better grasp. Hope this helps & thanks for watching!
@@JumpermanTech correct...my coil shows zero volts and once the furnace is activated the common/HUM wires to the Honeywell R8222B 1067 reads 28 volts across the coil; however, the output side, that leads to my humidifier & humidstat reads zero volts if opened or closed (on the N.O. or N.C).....I assume it is bad, yes?
Great content! You’re a hero 🫡
Interesting subject and well explained. Great job JMT. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Thank you! Stay tuned for new videos every week 🔧⚡