It’s one thing to buy a replacement top, but it’s a completely story when you go to install it. Plus the tools and patience to complete it. Elin, you are so good! My video version would of had many £%&@ bleeps in it!! Lol. 😂
Elin, Just finished my 3rd top install in over 30 years of TR6 ownereship (2 on my car, 1 on someone elses) I used your video as a refresher as this isn't one of those things you do often (Thank God!). I forgot what a pain that front seal is! Thanks for the Video.
I stand in admiration of your skills Elin.. Had I taken on such a fussy and fiddly job I'd have ended up going to anger management therapy quickly followed by a visit to the Pub !
Nice job Elin I have a canvas shop. You need to squeeze the Press N Snap with as little pressure as possible to get the proper crimp. If you squeeze to hard it deforms the part and it is very hard to attach anything together or apart. Just enough pressure to get a proper crimp and no more. Start too light and tighten if needed.
Hi Elin, I wrote an article for Ragtop magazine that’s reprinted in the current issue, about installing soft tops. When installing the velcro on the frame, there should be a small wedge of hard foam inserted in the front between the back of the velcro and the frame. This is to prevent whistling and leaks at the top corner of the A frame (windscreen). I think I saw the wedge on your old velcros? It’s something that’s often overlooked, but quite important. Great work as always and thanks for showing how this is done.
OK Elin. I watched both top installations and I am not sure how to adjust the roll-up windows for height so the window doesn't hit the metal track when I close the door and also : how do I move the 2 tracks so that the windows close against the rubber properly when I close the doors? The tracks have some adjustment in and out/fore and aft but are tightened before the rubber is put on!? Do I need to take the rubber on and off while I move the tracks to place the rubber properly against the window when the doors are closed? Seems like a clunky system.
The TR4 top is another story, isn't it? It's fully removable, then the frame folds and tucks under the interior side and back trim pieces to be almost completely hidden. I always liked the front fastening method used on the TR6 better, but the rear fastening of the TR4. I wonder if it would be possible to do a hybrid? (Would need to use a TR6 windscreen frame too... Or modify a TR4's). For me it no longer matters... I got an original hard top for my TR4 instead.😁 Fitting rubber sealss into metal channels can be difficult. I wonder if a little WD40 would help? That's a trick I learned installing motorcycle grips onto the handlebars and have used in some other installations. The WD40 makes the rubber slippery temporarily, but soon dries and evaporates, so the rubber stays snugly in place. Might be worth a try on a job like this. (I'd keep the WD40 off any paint, though.)
...What a pain compared to a TR3 top....I've done 4 over the years that I've owned my TR3a...Sears Roebuck (U.S.) listed three 'qualities' as good, better and best..I always bought the $99.00 'good' and, because they didn't last as long, I became better practiced at their installation...The last one was a Rollin's (white) from Victoria British or Moss and was much heavier and better made but cost over $400.00US...My practice with lesser tops paid off...I wouldn't have the patience to do a TR6 top, for sure....As it is, I bought my white top over 14 years ago and only had it up one time (for photos)....John (west coast, Can.)
Incredible job. Your a true craftsman
What an amazing channel together with an amazing guy, very skillfull
It’s one thing to buy a replacement top, but it’s a completely story when you go to install it. Plus the tools and patience to complete it. Elin, you are so good! My video version would of had many £%&@ bleeps in it!! Lol. 😂
Another great video. The end result looks great and your customer should be very happy with it.
Elin, Just finished my 3rd top install in over 30 years of TR6 ownereship (2 on my car, 1 on someone elses) I used your video as a refresher as this isn't one of those things you do often (Thank God!). I forgot what a pain that front seal is! Thanks for the Video.
Thx Elin
Nothing less than I expected, well done for a superb finish.
Wow I always enjoy your videos. I wish that you were here on Tampa Florida USA are. We need someone like you here. Be blessed
Brilliant tutorials thank you
Glad you didn't run into the bad stiching like when we did mine! FYI hardtop is off and soft top is on. Looks fantastic!
I stand in admiration of your skills Elin.. Had I taken on such a fussy and fiddly job I'd have ended up going to anger management therapy quickly followed by a visit to the Pub !
Great!!
Excellent job! Looks nice and neat and tidy. Better than factory.
Well done, that looks absolutely perfect!!
a great video, Elin. thanks for updating
Looks great!
Great job, Very nice
You have great skills. I would have made a real mess of that!
Excellent! So inspiring- I hope my install of my Miata top goes as well!
Simply the best!
Nice job Elin
I have a canvas shop. You need to squeeze the Press N Snap with as little pressure as possible to get the proper crimp. If you squeeze to hard it deforms the part and it is very hard to attach anything together or apart. Just enough pressure to get a proper crimp and no more. Start too light and tighten if needed.
A lot of work!
Hi Elin, I wrote an article for Ragtop magazine that’s reprinted in the current issue, about installing soft tops. When installing the velcro on the frame, there should be a small wedge of hard foam inserted in the front between the back of the velcro and the frame. This is to prevent whistling and leaks at the top corner of the A frame (windscreen). I think I saw the wedge on your old velcros? It’s something that’s often overlooked, but quite important. Great work as always and thanks for showing how this is done.
Thanks Dave, something to learn every time :)
Excellent video - could you share more info re brand etc re “gun wash”?
OK Elin. I watched both top installations and I am not sure how to adjust the roll-up windows for height so the window doesn't hit the metal track when I close the door and also : how do I move the 2 tracks so that the windows close against the rubber properly when I close the doors? The tracks have some adjustment in and out/fore and aft but are tightened before the rubber is put on!? Do I need to take the rubber on and off while I move the tracks to place the rubber properly against the window when the doors are closed? Seems like a clunky system.
Putting on the top is a snap! I'm getting the triumph TR itch. Is this a bad idea?!?!
#crackalacking
The TR4 top is another story, isn't it? It's fully removable, then the frame folds and tucks under the interior side and back trim pieces to be almost completely hidden.
I always liked the front fastening method used on the TR6 better, but the rear fastening of the TR4. I wonder if it would be possible to do a hybrid? (Would need to use a TR6 windscreen frame too... Or modify a TR4's).
For me it no longer matters... I got an original hard top for my TR4 instead.😁
Fitting rubber sealss into metal channels can be difficult. I wonder if a little WD40 would help? That's a trick I learned installing motorcycle grips onto the handlebars and have used in some other installations. The WD40 makes the rubber slippery temporarily, but soon dries and evaporates, so the rubber stays snugly in place. Might be worth a try on a job like this. (I'd keep the WD40 off any paint, though.)
I would have thought you only put spray glue on the first inch before it goes around the edge, and under the metal strip. It sure is a nice top.
Yeah, that was what I did. That premarket line was about 2 inches past the fold line so I sprayed my glue from about 3 inches before it
...What a pain compared to a TR3 top....I've done 4 over the years that I've owned my TR3a...Sears Roebuck (U.S.) listed three 'qualities' as good, better and best..I always bought the $99.00 'good' and, because they didn't last as long, I became better practiced at their installation...The last one was a Rollin's (white) from Victoria British or Moss and was much heavier and better made but cost over $400.00US...My practice with lesser tops paid off...I wouldn't have the patience to do a TR6 top, for sure....As it is, I bought my white top over 14 years ago and only had it up one time (for photos)....John (west coast, Can.)